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Home
Companion.
First Release: June 1st 1989
(Canada Day…what a country!)
_______________________________________________________________________________
The
Anarchist’s Home Companion.
_______________________________________________________________________________
Table
Of Contents:
_______________________________________________________________________________
I An
Introduction to the Anarchial Arts. Pg. 3
II The Tools of the Arts…………….. Pg. 4
IV Anarchy for Amusement……………..
Pg. 6
V Anarchy for Profit……………….. Pg. 8
VI Havoc and
Hell…………………… Pg. 10
VII The Black Arts…………………… Pg. 12
VIII Theft:………………………….. Pg. 13
A Single Party Theft………….. Pg.
14
B Multiple-Party Theft………… Pg. 15
C Other Forms of Theft………… Pg.
16
IX Destruction:…………………….. Pg. 19
A Home Made Weapons……………
Pg. 21
B Interesting Ideas…………… Pg. 22
C The Fun Part……………….. Pg.
23
X Deception……………………….. Pg. 24
XI
Sub-Forms……………………….. Pg. 25
XII Weapons and Explosives:…………… Pg.
26
A Home-Made Explosives………… Pg. 27
B Chemical Explosives…………. Pg.
39
XIII General Anarchy………………….. Pg. 41
XIV More Easy
Gadgets………………… Pg. 43
XV Complex Explosives:………………. Pg. 50
A
Common "Weak" Explosives…….. Pg. 51
B Thermite Reactions………….. Pg. 53
D Other Stuff………………… Pg. 56
XVI Stars, Flares, and Color Mixtures….. Pg. 57
XVII The Chemistry of Pyrotechnics………
Pg. 64
Note Sheets……………………… Pg. 70
_______________________________________________________________________________
Chapter
One: An Introduction to the Anarchial Arts
_______________________________________________________________________________
First off, I guess I must allot for those of you who don’t know what I mean
when I say
Anarchy. (ALWAYS capitalize that word…don’t forget!) Well, maybe
I should start off with a
definition..
Anarchy: <`an-ahr-kee>…noun. 1. A social structure without law
3. A rebellion against what’s
accepted as right or correct.
Ya…right outta Webster’s own, there. Well, I HOPE that
you got some
idea as to what I’m talking about from that. If not, toss this out…it
isn’t for you. Done? Okay. Now that only the REAL people of the world are
here, we may
commence the study of the perfection of this art, and examine
some of the newer developments
and state-of-the-art achievements in this
religious pastime.
_______________________________________________________________________________
Chapter
Two: The Tools of the Arts
_______________________________________________________________________________
Explosives - A personal favorite. As everybody knows, there are many,
many, files floating
’round out there on this topic.
I have seen docs and plans for everything from the
front axle car bomb to the exploding ball-point pen.
So, you should have no trouble with this
section…
Flammables - Gasoline, hairspray, ANYTHING that burns enthusiastically
classifies. However, with the availability of gasoline,
and the relative inexpensivity, (now
.68/gal!), this most
often becomes the chosen fluid. Attain some, and I’ll
tell you what
to do with it later…
Projectiles - Yes, even the most basic of prehistoric weaponry
can be
the Anarchist’s best friend. Everything from rocks to
eggs to your little brother
classifies, anything that can
be used to damage or destroy when thrown will do…
however, due to the relative inexpensiveness and
availability of rocks leads to their wide
usage…
Instability - C’mon, let’s not be silly. Every Anarchist is so BECAUSE
of an inherent mental imbalance. A true Anarchist is a
psychopathic Anarchist. This REALLY
comes in handy when
preparing for a "run", for to an Anarchist, quite simply,
the mad, the impossible, isn’t. This is sometimes
referred to by Anarchists as
"guts" or "balls"…
Transportation - (Preferably motorized… be
real). Or, in many cases, a
flock of such. A mandatory requirement for a successful
authoritative attack, for true Anarchists don’t get
caught at the scene…
_______________________________________________________________________________
Chapter
Three: Mild Anarchism
_______________________________________________________________________________
As much as people would like to deny it, prank calls, yes, prank calls
are a form of what
could be known as "pre-Anarchy". It can even be found in
The Specter’s infamous
satire of the loser, "Anarchy for the PreAdolescent",
under "Major Devilment
for the American Youngster." Face it, EVERYBODY
as made prank calls once in a while for
entertainment, and we still do, yet
now it’s more for profit than for amusement. Even the
universally-
despised jokes, phrases, and clauses told to preteens by their visiting
grandparents such as, "Excuse me, but is your refrigerator running?" and,
"Is
there a John in the house?" are heard from time to time spewing forth
from the mouths of
giggling infants into the phone receiver into your hateful
ear. It’s unavoidable. Yet they do
successfully annoy you, therefore, in
essence, completing SOME form of mild anarchy. Face it,
like it or not,
these little jerks are the future freaks and Anarchists of America…
More inventive forms of this nature include ringing doorbells and
running, putting a
modem on auto-redial at an enemy’s home, letting air out
of your neighbor’s tires, and selling
fake raffle tickets…(100% profit!)
Yet, we must move on…
_______________________________________________________________________________
Chapter
Four: Anarchy for Amusement
_______________________________________________________________________________
Yes, Anarchy CAN be an entertainment outlet for a slow Saturday
night! Just get a couple
friends together, grab some brew, and you’re off
to wreak unholy havoc upon society! But what
to do first? Hmm, you consult
your ever- ready "Anarchist’s Handbook," and espy the
chapter, "Fun
Through Blatant Destruction of Property!" Aha. That’s the one, but
how?
Well…
A. Spray Paint - Fun stuff! Sure, why not, for no reason at all,
just
go out and paint "@#$% You!" all over everything in
sight, or maybe the
infamous Anarchy sign, an encircled
"A" everywhere? Why not, YOU won’t have to clean
up
that mess? Hey! Why not paint "Can’t Drive 55" signs
all up and down
Interstate 75 like on Sammy Hagar’s
album? A warning, though. Park OFF of the InterState,
the pigs see you, you’ve got plenty
of time to scramble
to the car and get away. Also, paint can be "picked up"
quite easily from any drug store or hardware store, or,
if you’re not "into
shoplifting," it’s relatively cheap.
A movie’s about $4.50, a can of paint’s $1.75 or so,
I
don’t know, haven’t BOUGHT any in quite some time.. But
in any case, it’s cheap
entertainment. Not even a new
flick can get your heart racing like a cop chase can.
one or two would
look good in Ms. Johnson’s living room?
Sure, the colors match beautifully! But, aw shucks,
the
door’s shut. No need to bother the sweet old bitch, we
will just have to put them
there ourselves…but how? A
window — perfect. Just toss ‘em in there! I’m sure
she’d
like to thank you for your good day, but the Good
Book says that we shouldn’t do something for
the thanks
that we receive, but just out of the goodness of our
heart…so, get out of
there before she sees you and
tries to thank you personally it’s the "good
thing".
C. An Invasion - (of privacy, that is!) Blackmail material, possibly? I
kick to the bottom of the phone box
should cause it to
open freely. Alligator clips, do your stuff.. But if
you’d prefer
continual results, simply plant a "bug"
in their house when you’re there, like under
the kitchen
table, and, can’t forget, under the bed… There are
literally hundreds of
plans circulating for the quick-
‘n-easy construction and usage of this homemade hardware
can’t, then you just haven’t been
looking!
_______________________________________________________________________________
Chapter
Five: Anarchy for Profit
_______________________________________________________________________________
Financial gain is the goal, social disruption is the route. No, I’m
not talking about becoming
a "hit-man" for the mob or anything, just some
clean fun, and a little profit on the
side. Sure, you could use step "C"
above for blackmail and information hostage
purposes, but let’s be a little
inventive, that’s been being done for YEARS..
No, you can’t say that making people pay "protection money" is
inventive. G’zus,
it’s on the "A-Team" every week, for chrissakes! Let’s
think.. Watch we make money
by calling with MCI, Metro, and Sprint, but,
that’s not outright collection of payment,
that’s…well, that’s more
like SAVING money, like clipping coupons in the newspaper, if you
will…you get what you want for a lower price than usual. We need money,
and we need
it NOW! Maybe if you’re.. "into" this stuff..<ahem>..you could
possibly
CREATE an imaginary employee at some company deep within the
bowels of the conglomerate
computer? Maybe send his paychecks to a
mysterious P.O. Box? Sure, why the hell not? Hey,
this P.O. Box stuff
sounds good. I wonder…
Visa…MasterCard…American
Express…Diner’s Club…K-Mart
Credit Cards! Sure, goods on credit! It’s the AMERICAN way,
after all, isn’t
it? Why not do some late-night trashing? G’z..you’ll have to miss David
they’ve a
"no-questions-asked" return policy), and "buy" a VCR. (I’m sure
you can
get ahold of your mummy’s credit card for an hour or so to do a little
shopping..). Next
stop, Radio Shack. Waltz inside like you’re some rich
preppie/yuppie with all the money in
the world, and he won’t notice the
holes in your faded jeans, he’ll think that they’re
"in." Sunglasses
always work best, for some reason, rich people tend to wear ‘em a
lot. (Why
not slip a pack of ten’a dem cheap-ass Tandy disks into your jacket as
long’s you’re there? Don’t worry…alltheir "security systems" are
Tandy-Made, so
they always work like crap anyhow..) Yes, sir, I’d like to
buy THAT model. Yes, that’s right,
the TX156-34YI38Ejr. Yes, I think
that’ll be all. Here’s my card. I’ll sign…okie. Thank
YOU, sir.
(After all, you need some toons for tonight’s trashing..) Now, return your
mummy’s card, and, as soon’z it’s dark, we’re off! (But don’t forget to
return the box and
the VCR after tonight, you can buy them on somebody else’s
card tomorrow! Or else mommie’ll
get mad…)
Try to locate an "everything store," like K-Mart or Major’s.
These places
are the most open, the most disorganized. 9 times out of 10 there will be
a couple large trash bins behind the store. Whatever they try to tell you,
they most often
will NOT lock these, because that’s the job of the stock
boy, and he’s most often more
concerned with Jenny, the salesclerk in
Electronics to bother once he’s off work. Most of
their stock boys are about
16 or 17, so as long as they’re NORMAL teen-agers, they’ll do as
little as
possible to keep from being fired. Why lock the bins, sir, who would want
to
go in THERE?!? I would.. EVERYTHING they have goes in there. The
salesclerks are SUPPOSED to
rip the carbons in half, but we know how often
they REALLY do that. Even when they do, it’s
no problem getting the name,
number, and anything else you may need for card identification
off of a
ripped carbon, they usually stick to each other anyhow.. Get one kid to keep
watch, and everybody else go fishing for anything…computer access codes,
(good luck at
K-Mart!), telephone numbers, credit check phone numbers, but,
most of all, look for card
carbons! These will provide you with a limitless
source of TV-Ad goodies and mail-order
stuff.. This search should take
anywhere from :30 min to all night, depending on cop
surveillance. Fill
suitcases and travel bags with anything that looks important, you can
produce
section..no rotting food to sift through..)
Got it all? Now, just flip on a local
station, or MTV, or whatever, and,
before you can say "I Love Ma Bell," you’ll run
across 9 or 10 million ads for
stuff like "Ronco ‘In the Shell’ Egg Scramblers" and
"ACME Nosehair Clippers"
and the like..write down the phone number for the company
that makes whatever
product you could want, and give them your name, (off of the card,
stupid!),
and your card number..and presto! In 4 to 6 weeks, you’ve got your own brand
new set of Ronco Party Circumcisers..free of charge. (YOU try to say "I Love
Ma
Bell"…*I* can’t!) Another good idea is to cruse over to the 7-11 and,once
you’ve gotten
your Slurpee, buy a lot of mail-order magazines, (ie. Ninja
Magazines, etc.) They’ve got a lot
of card order forms and phone numbers..
But, don’t forget! NEVER SEND THE GOODS TO YOUR HOME!
That’s the PERFECT
loser thing to do.. Always find a "drop point," like a vacant
house which is
for sale, or a P.O. Box. You cannot be traced back through either method…
_______________________________________________________________________________
Chapter
Six: Havoc and Hell
_______________________________________________________________________________
Just what you’ve been waiting for, I knew it. Well, there are SO
many different forms of
Anarchial aggression that it would be impossible to
even TRY to list them all. New and
inventive methods of destruction are being
conjured up every day, so I’ll just try to give a
brief overview. First off,
I’d like to state that you don’t HAVE to be a stoner or a
headbanger to be an
Anarchist, you don’t even have to drink alcohol. You can be perfectly
NORMAL
and…well, I guess if you didn’t do any of that you wouldn’t be normal,
would
you? Anyhow, you can be perfectly NORM..er..ODD..and still be an
Anarchist at heart you don’t
have to be into blatant destruction, you don’t
even have to like heavy metal music…but it
helps. Who knows, maybe you
just like to replace normal light bulbs with gasoline-filled
ones? Maybe
you just, for some reason, enjoy running down little kiddies.. YOU can’t help
artist on your block!
Maybe even in the whole county! Modify your
vehicle to your interests and mount a kangaroo
bar on the front of your
Ford Bronco or S-15, so that the people you run over slide more
easily
under your car…maybe even put a window in the floor so you can see
who you
just helplessly maimed? Ms. Johnson? Oh- hello…did you enjoy
the bricks? You did? That’s
good. If they convulse, you did it right.
A good way to make a great start on a
successful career as another one
of "those ‘Anarchial @#$holes’" is to try drowning
the neighbor’s cat in
their pool. Hmm, knowing how much cats hate water, we’ll have to try to
find
a way around their fears…see how thoughtful Anarchists have to be? I
think that
it’s a very good training for future life myself.. Hmm, howzabout
the infamous TV favorite,
"cement shoes?" Perfect. But how to get the cat
into cement? Ah- replace the kitty
litter with cement and spike the cat’s
water with something like the cyanide found in many
medicines. It’s barely
perceptible, so the catill get blitzed off of its ass and then go to
the
kitty litter, and get stuck inside.. Cats make a LOT of noise when they
realize
that they’ve been trapped, so act quickly before suspicions arise..
Slip the cement out of
the bin, (don’t forget to use "no-stick" PAM
before!), with the cat stuck by all
four legs inside, and have a friend
wash out the bin quickly..it should be somewhat clean, so
then re-fill it
with kitty litter before you are noticed. Hurry up, or you’ll miss all the
fun. Drop the kitty into the pool. If you used the right cement, then you
won’t have
to worry about it sinking.. It is actually quite interesting the
way that all the cat’s fur
floats in the water with every current! Wild..
Next target…the dog! Make your own
lynch plan for the dog, I
haven’t perfected one as of yet, they are too big and noisy.. (I
don’t
consider chihuahuas and the like to be dogs..they are just sub-dogs) You can
treat sub-dogs as cats, though, if you want the cat to have some company…
Hey, why not try
the bird? Easily captured, easily cemented! It really
is quite funny watching a bird try and
fly with it’s feet cemented.. don’t
worry, they sink just as well as anything… Most of all,
though, have fun
at it..experiment!
_______________________________________________________________________________
Chapter
Seven: The Black arts
_______________________________________________________________________________
Well here it is, the path to true Anarchy… Are you worthy of the title
of a true Anarchist?
We will soon see. The Black arts are Theft,
Deception, Destruction and all sub-forms of
Anarchy. To master the
techniques involved takes time and patience but most of all, it has to
be in
your blood! You can always tell the difference between a True Anarchist and
a
dabbler… Pulling the fire alarm at school doesn’t cut it (Although
that can be fun during a
slow day)… Anyone can do that, BUT, can you do
it without getting caught? Well,that is the
tough part. Even at an early
age one can see the signs of Anarchy emerge… if a kid watches
Mister
Rogers all day, forget it but if he builds crude weapons out of household
items
and delights in torturing the family pet, his sister etc.. then he
has potential.
at first,
primitive forms of Anarchy such as crank calls, nicky nine doors
and petty theft will begin
the process. At this point, frequent
failure or getting caught may put a stop to the
increasing chaotic
tendencies within the person in question. If the little bastard is
successful in his endeavors, however, he will move on to bigger and better
things. The real
fun stuff starts in high-school… there are endless
possibilities for amusement at the
expense of others… these will be
documented later. One thing to remember however is that
there are many
obstacles which stand in your path such as COPS, locks, alarms and of
course, the most important thing to watch out for is carelessness on your
part. It is because
of carelessness that many good hellraisers have met their
fate. Well, enough bull@#$%, let’s
get started!
_______________________________________________________________________________
Chapter
Eight: Theft
_______________________________________________________________________________
Theft is one of the most common forms of Anarchy, almost everyone does
it at one point in
their lives… Even the Pope probably stole dime-store
candies when he was a kid… Not
everyone, however, will perform this
maneuver to the same extent or with the same rate of
success. The
CARELESS ones get eliminated by the forces of good. Regardless of the
motive, the objective is always the same… To acquire at no cost and with
minimal effort,
items which are not originally or rightfully yours… There
are two sub-classes of theft.
These are single party theft and multiple
party theft (with accomplice). Regardless of the
type of theft, there
are three important elements to consider: Planning, Execution, and
ESCAPE. The latter is probably the hardest part and must be planned
carefully. A plan is
always required for a successful theft and should
offer a high probability of success with as
little risk as possible.
_______________________________________________________________________________
Part A:
Single party theft
_______________________________________________________________________________
It is a good idea to make a surveillance sweep of the target
area beforehand in order to
decide on the best route to the desired item and a
quick escape route. Always have at least
one alternative escape route in
case of unexpected intervention by cops or onlookers which
render your
first one impassable. Once you have entered the target area, time is of
the
utmost importance… Get in and out as quickly as possible… Be
discrete and do not attract
attention. Always make a quick scan for mirrors
or cameras, try to stay out of direct sight
of others.
Sometimes, the easiest things to take are items which are kept right in
second and before
you know it… FREE JUNK FOOD! Be alert, if there are other
people present, do not go directly
to the desired item. Browse a little, but
take the first reasonably safe opportunity to make
your way over to it.
Pocket the item quickly without looking at it or fumbling with it. DO
NOT
rush out of the area immediately if you don’t have to, be casual and maybe
even
make a purchase. If you are confronted however, GET THE $#@! OUT Take
the quickest one of
your escape routes that you can, if you are perused
then you must leave a difficult trail to
follow. Dodge on and out of
buildings or cars, backtrack, hop fences or do what ever you have
to do to
lose them. If possible, motorized transport is a good idea… (cover the
license plate) If not, then work with what you have, create obstacles as you
go, such as
throwing objects at your pursuers or knocking things down in your
wake.
Sometimes, a good cop chase can really give you a good feeling… It sure
satisfies the Rambo
in me! If you are forced to deviate from your plan due
to unexpected interference, follow your
instincts… but remember that a
true Anarchist doesn’t get caught at the scene! If it seems
inevitable that
you will be caught, stash the goods somewhere safe until you can collect
it.
After you have bin caught then it’s all over…unless, you lie like a
bitch or your
captor turns out to be a friend of the family. If you
escape, then you have successfully
completed your mission. Hopefully you
will have the foresight not to hit a store in your
neighborhood or one that
you go to regularly. Try not to hit the same place every time…
that’s
dangerous!
For an added challenge, you may want to try to swipe items
stored
behind the cashier’s counter. There are ways to do this such as the classic
"Can I use your phone? I’m stranded and need to call home" Heh, if they let
you
then your only problem is how to distract their attention. For this
reason, it is often
easier to execute a successful theft if you have an
accomplice…
_______________________________________________________________________________
Part B:
Multiple party theft
_______________________________________________________________________________
In a multiple party theft, the basics are the same but certain
adjustments must be made to
your plan. First you must decide who will do
what… One person as to distract the attention
of onlookers while the
other performs the actual crime. You should have included a signal in
your
plan so that the you can discretely inform your buddy that you have the
goods and
it’s time to leave. A third person may have been posted as a
look-out and if so, must also be
kept aware of what’s going’ on.
One of the important tricks is to make it look like
you don’t know any
of your accomplishes… don’t walk in together or leave together, unless
you
get burned. If you are confronted, then it is not always necessary for all
the
members of your team to flee if you have successfully convinced the teller
you are not
together.
The guy with the goods has to split BUT while the Cashier is chasing
him, or calling the cops, what better opportunity will the other two have to
fill their
pockets? If it becomes necessary for all parties to run, at least
you now have an added
benefit due to the fact that if you split up, it’s
harder to catch all of you. It is an
unwritten rule that a guy who gets
caught can’t squeal on the others if there is a chance they
can get away with
it. You should have a specified rendezvous point and time if you split up
so
all the parties (minus those who were bagged) can meet and decide on
appropriate
actions to take to insure no further problems will arise.
After a few hits with the
same people, you should have a kick-ass team
and will be able to tackle anything! One thing
though, always watch your back
cause as Stalin said "You can’t trust anyone, not even
yourself."
_______________________________________________________________________________
Part C:
Other forms of theft
_______________________________________________________________________________
Well, if your not into stealing’ from convenience stores, there are
many available sources of
"low-cost" items, such as cars, houses, purses &
wallets and my personal
favorite… school lockers!
Cars are easy… just get a 1.5 ft. long piece of
flexible but sturdy
wire (coathanger will do) and bend a loop at the end to fit over the
lock
button. Slide the wire through the gap between the window and the middle
section
of the car (not the top of the window). Now loop the end around the
lock button and pull. For
newer cars that do not have the lockbutton but
have the switch by the lever on the inside
door panel, you need more
equipment. You will need a flashlight, a mirror and a coathanger.
Before you begin, look through the opposite window at the door your
gonna open
and memorize where everything is positioned. Now, tape the mirror
to the outside of that
window with the reflective surface facing into the
car. If you have a friend helping you, you
don’t need the mirror as your
friend can stand on the opposite side of the car and see
through that window
where you have to move. Now slip the coathanger in as above and use the
window to bend it as you insert it so it touches the inside of the door…
using the
mirror or your friend to guide your movements, unlock the door
and there you go!
just throw a brick
through the window. Remember to search the dashboard,
glove compartment and back window ledge.
If you have a lock pick set and can
use it, go for the trunk to!
Motorcycles are
a cinch to swipe. All you need are a pair of vice-grips,
a screwdriver and a dime. Jam the
screwdriver into the ignition, clamp the
vice-grips to the shaft of the screwdriver and
twist… -=SNAP!=- Now just
press the start button and away you go! When you’ve had your fun
and ya wanna
ditch the bike, drop the dime into the ignition keyhole and give it a
quarter turn to turn off the engine.
Now, the most risky but often most
profitable source is a house. Before
you even approach the house, phone to make sure they’re
not in. If you don’t
have their number or they are a bunch of rug-pilots who don’t have a
phone,
ring the doorbell… once you have established the fact that they are not
home,
you can decide on your method of entry.
To break into a house, Your two sources of
entry are doors and
windows. Before I start describing methods to bypass locks and bolts,
and move
on… why risk it? Anyway, there are many types of door locks and
for most you will need a
lock pick set which will be dealt with in a
separate chapter. If you have a lot of time and
are in a deserted area, you
can use various power tools to destroy the door itself. Windows
are the
harder to reach but more simply bypassed entry routes. There is either a
deadbolt or a simple twist/pull lock for both, you just blow a hole in the
window just above
the lock (with a bee-bee gun) or bar and use wire or a
thin screwdriver to knock the bar out
or release the lock.
Apartment buildings are also a good target… just go into the
front
doors and press every intercom button on the panel. Some deluded idiot will
let
you in. If not, wait `till a resident comes in and pretend to be
fumbling for the door key…
he will of course, open the door for you…
Heh. Once you get in, make sure no one is home…
then grab a pillow case or
a garbage bag and take everything that is even remotely valuable!
Once you
have done that, cut the phone line and GET THE @#$%^ OUT!!! Mission
Accomplished….
Lockers!
The easiest way to get money or goods for nothing. One
way is to write
down the serial # and the combination of the lock your using this year and
then next year, find it and voila! In the mean time, you have to find
alternate
methods to keep you busy for a whole year, but look… there are
hundreds of lockers! With
little peckers you can stand behind them and
simply watch them enter the combination.
If you want to hit a locker belonging to an older student, you have to
be covert about
it. You might as well start close to home by easily breaking
into the lockers on either side
of yours. This method is simple but requires
time and you will need a hex-driver. Look at the
inside panel of your locker
that forms the wall separating it from the adjacent one. If the
heads of the
bolts are on your side, you will have no problems. Just unscrew the bolts and
Well, now you
know. Most of the schools supply spin combo locks that
are hard to pick so if all else fails,
use those heavy duty metal shears to
cut through the shank. Once your in, you are on your
own… Have fun!
The last type of theft I will discuss is the art of picking
pockets.
This method is becoming more and more difficult with the advent of self-
defense lessons… yes!… even little Grandma Johnson could be a black belt.
Basically all
you have to do is either run by the victim and snatch it, or
wait `till they put it down
somewhere where you can whisk it away. Once you
have the purse or wallet, there are many
things you can do… Money! I’m sure
you can all find a use for that… Credit Cards! Now
we’re talking! You can
go crazy ordering and carding everything you desire (not to your
house)…
You may find a spare key in there to, if so, look at the I.D. in the
wallet
to find out their address and away you go! Geez, what a week for
the poor sucker eh! First
his wallet now his house and car!!! Heh, always be
thorough…
NOTE: ALWAYS
LEAVE THE SCENE AS YOU FOUND IT SO THE VICTIM
WILL TAKE LONGER TO NOTICE A CRIME HAS BEEN
COMMITTED.
_______________________________________________________________________________
Chapter Nine: Destruction
_______________________________________________________________________________
Ahhh, there’s nothing’ like a good hour of destruction to relieve all
that tension after
failing your math exam. Yeah you remember, the one you
were supposed to be studying for while
you were mixing explosives in the
garage.
This form of Anarchy allows for more
creativity than most. You can
stick to doing mild damage with your hands or you can obtain a
wide
variety of weapons for more severe effects. It is usually easier to make your
own
weapons and there are a large number of chapters dealing with the
production of explosives and
simple weapons. For a successful strike on your
target area, you will need the following:
o Camouflage (dark clothing, mask)- To prevent discovery
& Identification
o A small bat or solid stick/bar - To eliminate people
or dogs who get in
the way
& to increase
destructive power
o A small, "efficient" weapon - For
serious emergen-
cies only! (knives or
mini-chucks are good)
o Flashlight
- So you can see!
o Several projectiles - To increase fire pow-
er and range
o Smoke Bombs - A valuable tool,
o FIRE - ………. A MUST!!!!
o Explosives - Not compulsory for the
job but they sure
add a spark to the
evening!
o Spray Paint - To mark out your
territory & let the
world
know you were
there…
o Lock Picks & a Bag - Just in case an easy
target for theft
presents itself while
your vandalizing.
_______________________________________________________________________________
Part A:
Home-Made Weapons
_______________________________________________________________________________
Mini-Chucks:
These little babies are easy to make and are easily concealable. All
you need are a pair of those metal nut-crackers and a 2 foot length of
chain. First, take the
nut crackers and cut through the hinge with metal-
shears, being sure to leave the rivets
intact. Now open up the last link at
each end of the chain and close them around the rivet
shaft on the metal
bars. HEY! Look what you’ve done… little nun-chakaus.
Cut a one inch slit in the tennis ball and stuff it full of
wooden
match-heads. (A little gunpowder adds to the effect) Once the ball is firmly
packed, it will detonate on contact with a solid surface producing large
amounts of flame and
flaming projectiles.
Flaming Darts/ Exploding Darts:
Take ordinary
darts and wrap an oil soaked strip of rag around the
shaft. Then just light and throw. For an
exploding dart, tie a cherry bomb
to the shaft using a twist tie and light the fuse.
Molocov Cocktail:
Fill a Pepsi bottle half way to the top with gasoline,
insert a rag,
light and throw… instant hell fire!
_______________________________________________________________________________
Part B:
Interesting Ideas
_______________________________________________________________________________
Try out these nasty thoughts on your local loser:
Personalized Lawns:
weed-killer? Better
yet, if your artistic, a graphic picture of him
pumping the local stray dog… heh,
long-lasting damage!
Hose Through The Mail Slot:
Stick the end of
the garden hose through the mail slot in his door,
then crank the faucet and run like a
*&^%er! If you do this at 3am, his house
will be floating down the street before he even
wakes up.
Address Switching:
Use your trusty screwdriver to switch
address numbers and steal mailboxes
throughout the neighborhood. Heh, if you find the right
numbers, you can
make three houses in a row with the same address, the fun part is when you
order a party-size pizza to that address. (If you are really on the ball you
can rip
off the delivery car while Guido is walking from door to door).
_______________________________________________________________________________
Part C:
The Fun Part
_______________________________________________________________________________
Once you have all your equipment, your ready to go. Easy targets are
mail boxes, bird feeders,
X-mas lights (when in season) and greenhouses. The
weapon you will use most is the bat or
steel bar you brought along in your
trusty Anarchist’s bag. Remember to spray paint the
traditional encircled "A"
where ever you go to let the world know Anarchy is alive
an’ well.
If you possess a slight sadistic streak, domestic pets can make
amusing targets. The classic " "cement shoes" is good to drown the neighbors
cat in their pool. Fire can be used in countless ways to destroy almost
anything. The good
part is once you’ve set the fire, it will continue to do
damage while you are running’ to the
next target. The interesting thing is
when you are spotted and chased.
Now you
have to use some direct methods to evade capture. Start off
mild by simply running. If they
persist, create obstacles as you go by
knocking things down in your wake, jumping’ fences,
cars, etc.. If that
fails, try a few smoke bombs lobbed over your shoulder to block their
to stay ahead
for long. Sooo, use the explosives… that should do it but
if not, just turn around, whip
out the projectiles or the weapon of your
choice an’ just beat the living’ &^%$# out of
`em. Now you can go home, being
sure to spray paint an encircled "A" on Mr.
Johnson’s bleeding forehead…
(heh, I doubt he’ll chase you next time).
_______________________________________________________________________________
Chapter
Ten: Deception
_______________________________________________________________________________
Well, anyone who has done anything similar to the acts described
above must also have found it
necessary to lie once in a while. Remember that
to get away with lying, you must make the lie
seem like reality. If you
convince yourself that it is true then others are more likely to
believe
you. It’s a good idea to make sure all the people involved in the caper have
the exact same story.
Always stick to your story and never stray from it. Try to have
supporting evidence on your side too, go for realism! Unfortunately, no book
is gonna
turn a lousy liar into a good one… it has to be in your blood, it
does, honest!
Chapter Eleven: Sub-Forms
_______________________________________________________________________________
Aside from the themes outlined above, there are many other forms
of Anarchial behavior. Some
people are specialists in one area like
Pyromaniacs or assasins. Others tend to be less
proficient in a wider range
of areas. For those of you who are specialists, SPEAK UP! There
are many
people who are hungry for material which you could provide from your
experience. Those of you who don’t even bother and are just reading this
book for
entertainment… "*&^% OFF!" I don’t have time for pussies… I
would suggest
that you find out what your specific interests are and pursue
them. Whatever your topic is,
there is a book on it somewhere… believe me!
If you are not sure where your skills lie,
then start small until you find
them. I know your all probably saying "C’mon, get on
with it @$$hole!" So,
here we go…
_______________________________________________________________________________
Chapter
Twelve: Weapons & Explosives
_______________________________________________________________________________
Introduction:
Assuming that you have read the first bit in this series and that you are
a true Anarchist, I’m sure you will find this chapter both interesting
and useful. We
have compiled some of the easiest to make but most
destructive devices in the Anarchist’s
arsenal of home-made weapons and
explosives. A true Anarchist has a remarkable ability to
overcome any
obstacle using only the materials at his disposal. I am not saying that you
should be able
to get by using whatever you have. This chapter shows you
a few ways to increase your
destructive power using simple household
items. Remember that there is a certain element of
risk involved in
handling some of the devices which you will see, so please use caution.
will take any
responsibility for damage or injury sustained as a result of
attempting any of the procedures
depicted.
_______________________________________________________________________________
Part A:
Home-Made Explosives
_______________________________________________________________________________
The
Motor Mine
_______________________________________________________________________________
This device causes basically the same damage as the "basic mine", but it
is more convenient if the intended victim happens to miss stepping on
it.
Materials: Film Canister ( or any container )
———-
Match Books ( 17 fill a
Black’s film canister )
Wire ( preferably long lengths )
Small Electric
Motor
Battery & Push-button Switch
Method:
First,
take the lid of your container and make a small hole in it.
This should be big enough to hold
the axle of the motor snugly. You need to
make a small cardboard disk or, if you can find
one, a small plastic gear-
like piece meant to fit on an electric motor. You have to cover
this small
disk ( about 1 cm. wide ) with the brimstone from the matchbooks.
Fill the container with match-heads, push the motor’s axle through the
lid and push the disk
onto the axle from the other side. Now put on the lid
and tape the whole thing up, plus the
motor so it doesn’t wobble around. Hook
your wire up to the terminals on the motor and then to
a switch or a
battery or whatever. Conceal the mother and stand back. You will hear a
high pitched screech of the motor grinding and then BOOM! Works well.
_______________________________________________________________________________
Time
Bomb
_______________________________________________________________________________
This device isn’t too hard to make, but it does have a limitation.
It doesn’t work
on the principle that the time you set it to is when it goes
off, it’s more of a mechanical
thing….just read.
Materials:
o Some sort of container
o Wooden
Matches ( 17 boxes fill a film canister but if
you want a bigger bomb, buy about 50 or
so boxes and fill a 2ltr. pop bottle.
o Small Electric Motor
o Friction Disk ( see
previous file "motor mine" )
o Wire
o Battery ( 9 volt should do it )
o
Cheap Clock with hands
o Electrical Tape
Method:
1) Make the "motor
mine" explained above.
2) Instead of both leads going straight to the battery,
you
will have a clock in between, with the faceplate
taken off.
3) Tie the positive and
negative leads to the clock hands
and set them to an appropriate distance apart.
4) When
the hands meet, this will complete the circuit
which will start the motor. The Friction disk
will spin
and rub against the matchheads and KABOOM!!
Note: To increase the power
of this device, gun powder may be added to
The match-heads to fill the container.
Here’s a Diagram: __________
Clock with hands-> ! \ __!___
________________________________!___\ /~ ! |
| ___________ _ ! ~o ! |
+-~ |_______+___-/
| ! ! |
____##____<-Motor [ ] | !_________! |
!* * * * *! [9v ] | |
!* * * * *!
[___] |________________|
!* * * * *!
!* * * * *! ^
!* * * * *! Battery
~~~~~~~~~~~
^
Container filled with match-heads
_______________________________________________________________________________
Napalm
Bomb
_______________________________________________________________________________
Napalm is, in itself a very simple substance. It can be used for
in the
construction of many simple explosive weapons. Here’s a good one:
Materials:
———- Gasoline Dishsoap (Joy is good)
A Nail Ammonia Pellets
A Drill Flexible
Wire
A Coke can
Procedure:
———-
[1] First, make a
mixture of 1/2 Dish-soap and 1/2 Gasoline.
[2] Cut the top off of the Coke can and fill it
with the mixture.
[3] Take the drill and put a hole in the ammonia pellet big enough so
that the nail can fit through it.
[4] Put the nail through the pellet and wire it to the top
of the can
so that the nail can be slipped out easily, allowing the pellet to
drop into
the mixture.
[5] Attach some string or fishing line to the nail head and detonate
from a
distance by pulling the string.
WARNING: DO NOT LET THAT PELLET FALL INTO THE
MIXTURE UNTIL YOU ARE
SAFE OR YOUR WIFE WILL SOON BECOME A WIDOW! Wait until you are ready
Ammonia
Pellet
/
<====[*]====() <- Nail
| |
| | <- Coke Can
| |
|===========|
|===========|
|===========| <- Mixture
|===========|
|===========|
~———–~
_______________________________________________________________________________
Das
Crackkerwork!
_______________________________________________________________________________
Das Crackkerwork: A neat way to scare the $#!^ out of someone and to
—————-
cause moderate amounts of damage.
Materials: o A rocket engine (The bigger the better
but class
———- A will do fine)
o A fire cracker
o Tape
o
A kick-ass nature
First, take the engine, it will have one hollow end and the other
screwdriver or something
hard and start grinding up the substance from the
inside.
Don’t grind up the
thing totally though. Now put the fire
cracker inside the engine, with the fuse sticking out
of the convenient hole.
The hole is usually used for solar flares.
Now tape up
the son of a bitch so that it’s black an’ mean looking.
Finally, light it and throw it,
the fire cracker will go off (but
won’t damage the engine), then the engine will ignite and
go whipping
around. It makes a lot of ruckus and the exhaust can cause damage.
Diagram:
———-
Fuse
/
_
/
|
|~~|
|__|
<- Fire-cracker inside engine body
| | and fuse through little hole in
| | rocket
substance.
|__|
Basically, it looks like one mean fire-cracker…
Have fun with Das Crackkerwork !
_______________________________________________________________________________
Smoke
Bomb
_______________________________________________________________________________
Materials Diagram
———– ———
- Coffee can - screen \
<-fuse
- Fuse or Rag - \__\___
- Gunpowder - !__/___!
- Motor Oil - ! \ !<-
gunpowder
- Screen - coffee can ->!__/___!
- Lighter - !______!<- motor oil
Procedure:
———-
1) Pour a 1/2 inch layer of motor oil into the
coffee can.
2) Pour in some gun powder ( The more, the merrier )
3) Cut a 6"
diameter circle of metal screening and poke a
small hole in the center of it.
4) Place
the screen on top of the can and secure it.
5) Insert a dry fuse or oiled rag through the
screen so
that it reaches the bottom of the can.
6) Light the fuse.
This
device will produce extremely large amounts of smoke and flame.
_______________________________________________________________________________
How To
Make A Fuse
_______________________________________________________________________________
One reason for which many well made bombs fail is the lack of a
good
fuse. To make a dry fuse, you will need the following:
o Several sheets of tissue paper
(The kind used for machee)
o Gasoline/Kerosene
o Gunpowder
o A paint brush
o
Patience
Method:
———
1) Use the paint brush to apply a thin film of
gasoline on a
sheet of tissue paper.
2) Let dry
3) Sprinkle a thin line of
gunpowder onto the paper
4) Roll the paper up tightly from one end
5) Apply a few more
layers by repeating steps 1&2 and rolling
each new layer around the existing fuse.
6) Let the whole thing sit for a couple of hours
7) Apply a final coating of gasoline with the
paintbrush
After it is completely dry, it will work beautifully
Note:
——- Experiments are currently being done in an attempt to design
a fuse which
will burn under water.
_______________________________________________________________________________
Tennis
Ball Grenade
_______________________________________________________________________________
Most of you have probably heard of the Tennis Ball Bomb. It is a
handy explosive or
noisemaker. The Tennis Ball Grenade is based on the same
idea but does more damage.
You will need the following:
1) A Tennis Ball
2) A Knife
3)
Several boxes of wooden matches (not safety matches)
4) Hockey Tape
5) Gunpowder
6) A Sparkler
7) Flint
Method:
——-
1) Cut a small round
hole in the ball with the knife
2) Take the flint (the kind used for flip-top lighters) and
crush
it into a powder
3) Separate the wire handle from the sparkler and grind it up
5) Pour the mixture into the
tennis ball
6) Cut off the match-heads and pack the ball with them until you
can’t fit
anymore into it.
7) Use the tape to cover the hole completely
The grenade will
explode on contact with any solid surface,
producing large amounts of flame and flaming
projectiles.
9) [optional] For a delayed blast grenade, insert a dry fuse into
the hole
before you tape it up.
These babies are easy to make, light weight, concealable and do
plenty
of damage for their size….in general, a kick-ass weapon. You can make dozens
of
them for hours of enjoyment.
_______________________________________________________________________________
The
Boom-Box
_______________________________________________________________________________
The Boom-Box is simple to make and is very effective. It is
an antipersonnel
device and works on one or more victims.
Materials:
———-
o String
o A mouse trap
o C-4 or any volatile
plastic explosive
o Tape
Procedure:
———-
1) Secure the
mousetrap to the bottom of the box (inside)
with tape.
2) Tie a piece of string to the
trip-bar of the mouse trap
3) Place a wad of C-4 where the cheese would normally go and
be sure that the spring loaded bar will hit it
4) Set the trap
5) CAREFULLY tape the
other end of the string to the inside
of the lid so that it is taught when only half open
7) Leave the box somewhere where the intended victim will find
it,
when he does…he will open it and BOOM!
Diagram:
——–
\
/ \
<- lid
string -> / \
____/_____\.
| / |
| o/____ |
mouse trap
-> | ======= | <- metal box
with C-4 ~———-~
_______________________________________________________________________________
Exploding Pen
_______________________________________________________________________________
This device is hardly a weapon but it is a mild explosive and
will serve as a good prank or
practical joke. If you wanted to increase the
power of the explosive, it would not be hard to
hard to turn it into a
destructive device with a few alterations to the construction.
Materials:
———-
1) A ball point "click" pen
2) Gun powder
3) 8-10 wooden match heads
4) 1 wooden match
5) A piece of sand
paper (1 1/2" X 2")
Procedure:
———-
1)
Unscrew pen and remove all parts except for the button at
the top of the pen
2) Stick
the match inside the pen where the ink fill was
3) Roll the sand paper around the match with
the rough side
facing in so it touches the match head
4) Put the remaining match heads
in, be sure they are inside
the sand paper
5) Put a wax stopper in the other end of the
pen where the ball
point came out
6) Fill the front part of the pen with gunpowder and
make sure
that the wax prevents it from spilling out
The finished pen should look
like this:
Wax stopper Gun powder Matches & Sandpaper
\ | |
\ | |
\ _______________|___________________________|________
<___________________________________|________________|===
/
/
Clicker
Applications:
————-
Basically, anywhere there is writing to be done, there is
be asking
to borrow a pen from now on.
_______________________________________________________________________________
The Cat
Bomb
_______________________________________________________________________________
This bit is for amusement only. We suggest that you do not try this out
at home.
It has come to my attention that a real panic can be generated by a
cat-bomb in a
supermarket or department store.
A cat-bomb is a simple and inexpensive thing to
make.
Materials:
———-
1 cat - large
1 sparkler or 1 ft.
of waterproof fuse
1 acetylene/oxygen torch
1 book of matches
Procedure:
Squeeze all air and $#!^ out of cat, being careful not to kill same.
Insert torch nozzle into cat’s ass.
Turn on a 50/50 mixture of the gasses, inflating the cat
to approximately
1/3 larger than normal.
Insert either sparkler or fuse into cat’s ass
being careful to minimize
gas release (some recommend stapling the orifice shut after
insertion
of fuse) very messy!
Deployment:
———–
Place cat in a
place of demonstration, and light fuse with matches.
Retire quickly to a safe place, (entrails
will be a-flying soon)
Cautions:
———
Recent experiments with larger
animals have shown a 10 minute
railroad flare to be of substantially greater sealing capacity
than the fuse
or sparkler method. Greater gas retention and thus a greater explosion are
_______________________________________________________________________________
Part B:
Chemical Explosives
_______________________________________________________________________________
Astrolite Mixtures
_______________________________________________________________________________
Astrolite:
———-
Astrolite is a liquid explosive which was a product of
rocket
propellant research in the 60’s. Astrolite A-1-5 is said to be the world’s
most
powerful non-nuclear explosive. It is approximately 2 times more powerful
than TNT and is
safer to handle.
Astrolite G
———–
Astrolite G is a
clear liquid explosive especially designed to
produce very high detonation velocity, 8600 mps
(meters/sec.) compared with
7,700 mps for nitroglycerin and 6,900 mps for TNT…In addition,
a
very unusual characteristic is that the liquid explosive has the ability
to be
absorbed easily into the ground while remaining detonatable… In
field tests, Astrolite G
has remained detonatable in the ground for 4 days,
even after being exposed to rain.
Procedure:
———-
Mix 2 parts (by weight) of ammonium nitrate
with 1 part
anhydrous hydrazine. The 2:1 ratio is not exactly perfect but if you screw
around with the mixture, you will find a better formula. Hydrazine is quite
hard to get ahold
of. It is used in; Rocket fuel, agricultural chemicals
(maleic hydrazide), drugs
(antibacterial & antihypertension),
polymerization catalyst, solder fluxes, photographic
development & diving
equipment. Hydrazine is a chemical that you should be careful
with.
Astrolite A/A-1-5
—————–
Mix 20% (weight)
aluminum powder to the ammonium nitrate, and then
mix with the hydrazine. The aluminum powder
should be 100 mesh or finer.
Astrolite A has a detonation velocity of 7,800 mps.
_______________________________________________________________________________
Sodium
Chlorate Mixtures
_______________________________________________________________________________
Sodium Chlorate:
—————-
Sodium chlorate is similar to potassium
chlorate, and in most
cases can be a substitute. Sodium chlorate is also more soluble in
water.
You can find sodium chlorate at any hardware/home improvement store. It is
used
in blowtorches and you can get about 3 lbs. for $7.50
SC Rocket Fuel
————–
Mix 50% sodium chlorate
35% rubber cement
10% epoxy resin
hardener
5% sulfur
You may want to add more sodium chlorate depending on the
purity you
are using.
SC Incendiary Mixture SC Impact Mixture
——————— —————–
Mix 55% aluminum powder Mix 50% red phosphorus
45% sodium chlorate 50% sodium chlorate
5% sulfur
SC Filler Explosive SC
Gunpowder
——————- ————
Mix 85% sodium chlorate Mix 65% sodium
chlorate
10% vaseline 22% charcoal
5% aluminum powder 13% sulfur
A sprinkling of
graphite
_______________________________________________________________________________
Chapter Thirteen: General Anarchy
_______________________________________________________________________________
J.L. Hudsons! Bring a good, strong magnet with you, and head for
the clothing section… Look
at the clothes on the rack, look at the tag…
___________________
| |
| X X X X X
X X |
|:::::::::::::::::::|
|___________________|
See that row of colons ^^
I drew? Well, that represents the
magnetic strip which they use for inventory purposes. If you
erase this strip
with the magnet, the cash register won’t be able to read the tag and the
lady
will have to enter the whole number… this gets very nasty if you erase
the tags
on almost every shirt, blouse, etc. in the store… most of the
stuff has more than one tag,
be sure to erase both…
Anywhere: Bring a small screwdriver with you, find one of
those
drinking fountains that has a cooling system, (it makes a humming sound every
so
often, and there is a fan).. Reach underneath, behind it and find the
coolant line that is the
largest. Next, find the little valve on it, it will
have a cap on it. Remove the cap and you
will see what looks like a
bicycle- type valve. Poke it with the screwdriver until some air
is sucked
into the system.. Then get out of there, the compressor will make some
strange noises, then will quit. In a few minutes, it will cool off, and try
to start again.
This cycle will destroy the compressor…ha.
Restrooms: Take the toilet paper and pull
off a section about 4 feet
in length. Stick it in the toilet the flush it down.. If you still
have
your screwdriver, turn the water inlet valve to full - this is that valve
on a
normal toilet…
-*==0
|
|
——-
It’s a little hard to
understand, but it is usually capped, take off
the cap. If you do it right, the whole roll of
toilet paper will be gone
in no time - keep doing it ’till it floods…!
Any
Store! Some stores have a security system that employs the use
of little plastic buttons,
slips, or disks that are fastened to articles
of clothing. Inside these articles are a piece
of copperish-looking foil
coated with some green plastic marked, "Inventory Control -
Property of the
Store." (In some cases, this piece of plastic is placed on a string all
by
itself..)
Take this piece of plastic and do any of the following - drop it
into
a bag or the pocket of another piece of clothing, (they won’t be able to find
it
but it will trigger the alarm all the time!).. Find a little kid standing
all by himself, and
tell him it’s a special magic card, and to keep it!
(Once he leaves, the alarm will go off,
and his parents will get
busted..) Or, of course, you can drop it into the bag of another
customer,
that’s always fun..
Any Large Department Store: Sometimes there are
phones laying around
in unsupervised check-out booths, (like in hudson’s or something), pick
up
the phone, and dial a three digit number - this usually connects you with
another
part of the store - after some real pranking around the whole store,
you might want to walk
around and see what you’ve done; (usually, there will
be a small store directory taped into
the handset, it always comes in handy.)
The HardWare Department: Find a small cylinder
of methyl
acetylene propeniene, (or the tradename "mapp"), and jam a small nail into
the top, not allowing too much gas to escape at one time… The smell of the
gas you
will soon find out is –>terrible<– and if left around slowly
releasing the gas, it
might cause an explosion, (if it is near the electrical
and lighting dept.), or most likely
it will cause some really pissed customers
who smell the stuff; it really smells bad!!
Elevators: Remember when your parents got pissed when you messed with
the buttons on
an elevator? Well, forget that - find the switch,
usually a pushtype, and turn it off when you
are at a floor. Most people
don’t know how the hell to work it, and will get quite pissed…
Also, push and stick one of the buttons down, (lets say the highest
floor so it
is in a non-traffic area), with some gum or tape or a nail; the
elevator will always seek that
floor when it’s not being called by other
floors - over time, it becomes slower and
slower…
At A Large Department Store: Find one of those brass disks on the
floor.. Stand on it and turn your whole body counter-clockwise to unscrew it.
Take a look
inside, and you’ll see a pair of wires that look very thin,
there is a good chance that those
are serial register bus wires. Strip
them, (with your handy-dandy swiss), and touch them
together, if there is a
small spark, you’re in luck. If there is a large spark forget where
you
read this - this will effectively knock out all the data transmissions
from each
register to the master computer, depending on the setup, each
register might go dead.. (What
a mess…)
_______________________________________________________________________________
Chapter
Fourteen: More easy gadgets
_______________________________________________________________________________
These devices aren’t of the chemical nature, so they shouldn’t be hard
for anyone to build.
They are also the kinds of devices which can be
improved by simply making them bigger.
_______________________________________________________________________________
Simple mine
_______________________________________________________________________________
This is
where it all started. The simple land mine is used in
other devices. The device itself isn’t
complicated, but takes patience to
make it work well.
Materials: Film
Canister (or Folger’s Coffee
can if you wanna blow away the
block)
Packs of
matches (17 fill a film
canister).
Patience.
First, take the
lid of the canister or can, etc. and cut a square hole
in the lid the width of the striking
strip on a book of matches (about 5mm).
Next, cut 4 striker strips off the matchbooks. With
these you must make a
"box". You might want to leave an extra millimeter of
cardboard on the edge
of the strips, and bend them so you can glue the edges of each strip
together. Because it’s hard to glue just edges together.
Form the box around a
pencil or something, so you can have support
when gluing it. Make sure the whole inside of the
box is the brimstone side
of the strips. What it will look like when it’s made is a 3cm long
hollow
box, with the ends open. You then push this box halfway through the lid with
the
hole in it. Now cut the joint edges of the box only on the top side of
the lid, so you can
fold these sides down to the lid, to hold it better. It
now will look like a lid, will a
cross of cardboard on the top side, and on
the underside, the rest of the box is sticking
out. Next cut your match
heads off and fill the canister.
Then, take 2 or 3
matches, tape them together tightly, and insert
them Carefully in the "box" from the
top side of the lid. MAKE SURE they fit
snugly, otherwise they’ll slip about and won’t strike
the insides of the
box and therefore light everything else.
Finally, put the lid
on, and tape the son of a bitch up as much
as possible, over the lid as well. Bury the whole
thing in the ground so just
the "button" (the 2 or 3 matches, which are about half
way into the box)
are sticking above ground. And when someone steps on it, BOOM! Of course
coffee can, you
could blow someone’s foot off. Or a 2 litre pop bottle, using
the cap in place of the
lid!!
_______________________________________________________________________________
String
Cannon
_______________________________________________________________________________
Once again, the basic principle of the mine is used here.
Materials:
Container.
Matchbooks.
Piece of piping with one end closed off (make
sure it is possible to put a hole in the
closed end though). ABS piping (available
at
Home Hardware) Blacks is good because
the film canisters fit PERFECTLY. But only
the
see through ones. Ask Blacks for
TRANSPARENT film canisters.
String.
Ok, make a basic mine (you MUST have the mine to do this). But don’t
put
in the match heads yet. Pierce a hole in the bottom of the canister (big
enough for
strong string to fit through). Now, once you have made the 2 or
3 match button (from the first
mine explained) you will be pulling it from
the bottom rather than stepping on the top.
Tie the string to the matches in the brimstone box and then bring
the string through
the bottom of the canister, fill the canister with match
heads, and put on the lid. Once
again, the more you tape, THE BETTER. You want
to hold this explosion as much as possible, so
when it goes off it’s more
powerful. Put a hole (for the string) in the blocked end of the
piping. You
might find it hard to the string through, but try and get it through a
small a hole as possible. You don’t want anything coming out the back!
A good idea is
to, insert the string through the pipe, THEN do the
rest explained above. And drop the mine
CAREFULLY down to the bottom of the
pipe. Now walk around like you have a shotgun and whenever
you want to blow
something away, just point and pull the string. A spray of match heads,
_______________________________________________________________________________
Mortar
_______________________________________________________________________________
Basically, that’s exactly what this is. It shoots out projectiles
that explode on
contact. Useful for small scale war.
Materials: 4 or 5 cans.
Strong
tape (or a welder if you can get your
hands on one)
Matches (MUST be "eddy
lights" (the ones with
the different coloured tip))
Squashball or dogball,
as long as it’s hollow
(a tennis ball can be used, but you need cans
wide enough to
house it)
Ronson’s lighter fluid
Will to blow something up.
Basically, this device is quite easily made, you just need some good
tools to do it
properly. First, take one of the cans, and cut the entire top
of of it (this might be hard
with pop cans, since they have a high edge which
gets in the way of using a can opener). Then,
on the bottom of the can, cut
about 3/4 of it out, so you have a semi-circle of tin missing
on the bottom,
like in this diagram:
______
/}*****\
/
}******\ * = amount of tin left on bottom
[ }*******] of can.
[ }*******]
\
}******/
\}*****/
~~~~~
Do exactly the same thing to all the rest of the
cans as explained
above (NOT the last one though), making sure that the open part in the
bottom
of each can alternates with the one below it. In other words, if you looked
down
the barrel of the thing, you’d see a semi-circle missing on the left,
then the right (directly
opposite) then the left etc. It must look this way.
When you get to your last can,
leave the bottom on and still cut the
whole top off. Now you must tape/weld all these cans
together (with the one
with the bottom on the bottom, naturally). This might be hard if
you
used pop-cans since the edges would be very rough (because you’d need to
actually
CUT off the top, not use a an opener). Anyway, now that’s done.
Last, make a small
hole in the side of the bottom can (as close as you
can get to the bottom). It just has to be
big enough to squirt the Ronson’s
inside. Next, you need to make "Roly Poly Match
Heads". You must find a ball
that is hollow, and will fit as best as possible in the
cans, so it doesn’t
wobble too much, but doesn’t have trouble coming out the end.
off match heads (eddy
lights, remember) until it’s quite tightly packed. Put
this down the barrel of the mortar,
tilt it upright at about a 45 degree
angle. Squirt some ronsons into the small hole at the
bottom (and a bit
around the hole, in case it doesn’t catch right away), light it, and BOOM.
The ball should go VERY far if the cannon is made well, and it will explode
when it
lands to boot!
_______________________________________________________________________________
Simple
Rocket Launcher
_______________________________________________________________________________
Materials: ABS piping (at least 8 cm diameter, so the
fins of the rocket can be fit inside,
and it
should be about 4 feet long). Also get
a smaller piece of ABS piping about 1 foot
long
and 3 inches wide (home hardware will tell you
what diameters the piping comes in
exactly).
This one foot piece will need to be cut in half
with a hack saw.
9 volt battery
Alligator clips (Radio
shack of $#!^)
Small rocket (buy smallest size at Merry Land
toys at Bloor and
Yonge)
3 "A" sized engines.
Solar flares (3 come with the
engines, but it’s
good to get another pack of them)
Mine. This is if you want an
explosion at the
end.
Relatively easy (as I always say) to build. After
you’ve cut the
small piece of ABS in half. Tape the two "handles" to the bottom of
the larger
piece of ABS (the launcher itself), one will act as the front handle, and the
other will have the "switch" on it.
Tape them in places where it’s
comfortable to you. You will be holding
it most likely on your right shoulder, and your left
arm will be out
front supporting you, and your right arm will be close into you, ready to
shoulder (don’t
worry, barely anything comes out the back, just a bit of
smoke).
Next put the
rocket together (you can read the instructions
yourself). *BUT*, since the rocket only
supplies fins for the back end
(because your supposed to be launching it up, not less than
something like 70
degrees (which is considered "ballistic")), you will have to make
makeshift
fins for the from so the rocket is pointing straight ahead inside the
launcher, not the from end sagging down, and only the back end up.
The good part about
getting he smallest rocket is, the transparent
film canisters (once again, they are the better
of the two types, so ask for
those), have sort of a circle that juts out on the lid, which
fits EXACTLY
into the cardboard body of the rocket. So, voila, you can put a mine on the
front. It seems they make these things fit nicely just for us anarchist
doesn’t it?
long wire to the switch
you have, and have one end going to the battery, and
from the other terminal on the battery to
the rocket, and the other end
of the switch to the rocket. Here’s a diagram…
________________________
________________<—–__ < rocket inside
II *II
^ * = switch
front handle
Close up diagram:
+ -
_____________________] ] < put alligator clips
[ _____________] on ends of
these
&&&&&&&&&&&&&[&& H &
]&&&&&&&&&&&&&& wires (which should
[
& A & ] be taped along the
on/off > \# & N & ] body of the
switch [
& D & ] launcher) and clamp
[ & L & ] them to the solar
[_& E
&_] flare, which is
in the back of the
engine.
& = ABS plastic
Obviously, if you have a mine, the "button" on the top of the mine will
be facing outwards, so when it lands, boom. The weight of the engine
should balance the weight
of the bomb on the front. Well, there you have
it. Just point, and launch!
_______________________________________________________________________________
Chapter
Fifteen: Complex Explosives
_______________________________________________________________________________
This chapter deals with the instructions for creating some
dangerous explosives. If you intend
to make any of these explosives, do so
in SMALL AMOUNTS ONLY, as they are all dangerous and
could seriously injure
or kill you if done in larger amounts. If you don’t know anything
about
chemistry, DON’T DO THESE EXPERIMENTS! I am not joking in giving this
warning.
Unless you have a death wish, you shouldn’t try any of the
following unless you have had
prior experience with chemicals.
I am not responsible for any injury or damage caused
by people using
this information. It is provided for use by people knowledgeable in
chemistry who are interested in such experiments and can safely handle such
experiments.
_______________________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________________
A. Gunpowder:
75% Potassium Nitrate
15% Charcoal
10% Sulfur
The
chemicals should be ground into a fine powder (separately!) with
a mortar & pestle. If
gunpowder is ignited in the open, it burns fiercely, but
if in a closed space it builds up
pressure from the released gases and can
explode the container. Gunpowder works like this:
the potassium nitrate
oxidizes the charcoal and sulfur, which then burn fiercely. Carbon
dioxide and sulfur dioxide are the gases released.
B. Ammonal:
Ammonal is
a mixture of ammonium nitrate (a strong oxidizer) with
aluminum powder (the ‘fuel’ in this
case). I am not sure of the %
composition for Ammonal, so you may want to experiment a little
using small
amounts.
C. Chemically ignited explosives:
1. A
mixture of 1 part potassium chlorate to 3 parts table sugar
(sucrose) burns fiercely and
brightly (similar to the burning of magnesium)
when 1 drop of concentrated sulfuric acid is
placed on it. What occurs is
this: when the acid is added it reacts with the potassium
chlorate to form
chlorine dioxide, which explodes on formation, burning the sugar as well.
2. Using various chemicals, I have developed a mixture that works very
well for
imitating volcanic eruptions. I have given it the name ‘MPG
Vulcanite’ tm). Here it is:
potassium chlorate + potassium perchlorate +
ammonium nitrate + ammonium dichromate +
potassium nitrate + sugar + sulfur
+ iron filings + charcoal + zinc dust + some coloring
agent. (scarlet=
strontium nitrate, purple= iodine crystals, yellow= sodium chloride,
crimson= calcium chloride, etc…).
3. So, do you think water puts out fires? In this
one, it starts it.
Mixture: ammonium nitrate + ammonium chloride + iodine + zinc dust. When a
drop or two of water is added, the ammonium nitrate forms nitric acid which
reacts
with the zinc to produce hydrogen and heat. The heat vaporizes the
iodine (giving off purple
smoke) and the ammonium chloride (becomes purple
when mixed with iodine vapor). It also may
ignite the hydrogen and begin
burning.
Ammonium nitrate: 8 grams
Ammonium chloride: 1 gram
Zinc dust: 8 grams
Iodine crystals: 1 gram
4.
Potassium permanganate + glycerin when mixed produces a purple-
colored flame in 30 secs-1
min. Works best if the potassium permanganate
is finely ground.
5. Calcium
carbide + water releases acetylene gas (highly flammable gas
used in blow torches…)
______________________________________________________________________________
Part B: Thermite reactions
______________________________________________________________________________
The Thermite reaction is used in welding, because it generates molten
iron and temperatures
of 3500 C (6000F+). It uses one of the previous
reactions that I talked about to START it!
Starter=potassium chlorate + sugar
Main pt.= iron (III) oxide + aluminum powder (325
mesh or finer)
Put the potassium chlorare + sugar around and on top of the main pt.
the starter
mixture. STEP BACK! The ratios are: 3 parts iron(III) oxide to 1
part aluminum powder to 1
part potassium chlorate to 1 part sugar.
When you first do it, try 3g:1g:1g:1g!
Also, there is an alternative starter for the Thermite reaction.
The alternative is
potassium permanganate + glycerin. Amounts: 55g iron(III)
oxide, 15g aluminum powder, 25g
potassium permanganate, 6ml glycerin.
_______________________________________________________________________________
Part C:
Nitrogen-Containing High Explosives
_______________________________________________________________________________
A. Mercury(II) Fulminate
To produce Mercury(II) Fulminate, a very sensitive shock
explosive,
one might assume that it could be formed by adding Fulminic acid to mercury.
This is somewhat difficult since Fulminic acid is very unstable and
cannot be purchased. I did
some research and figured out a way to make
it without fulminic acid. You add 2 parts nitric
acid to 2 parts alcohol
to 1 part mercury. This is theoretical (I have not yet tried it) so
please,
if you try this, do it in very* small amounts and tell me the results.
B. Nitrogen Triiodide
Nitrogen Triiodide is a very powerful and very shock sensitive
explosive.
Never store it and be careful when you’re around it- sound, air movements,
and other tiny things could set it off.
Materials-
2-3g Iodine
15ml
conc. ammonia
8 sheets filter paper
50ml beaker
feather mounted on a two meter
pole
ear plugs
tape
spatula
stirring rod
Add 2-3g Iodine to
15ml ammonia in the 50ml beaker. Stir, let stand for 5
minutes.
DO THE FOLLOWING
WITHIN 5 MINUTES!
Retain the solid, decant the liquid (pour off the liquid but keep
the
brown solid…). Scrape the brown residue of Nitrogen Triiodide onto a stack
of
four sheets of filter paper. Divide solid into four parts, putting
each on a separate sheet of
dry filter paper. Tape in position, leave to dry
undisturbed for AT LEAST 30 minutes
(preferably longer). To detonate, touch
with feather. (WEAR EAR PLUGS WHEN DETONATING OR
COVER EARS- IT IS VERY
LOUD!)
C. Cellulose Nitrate (Guncotton)
Commonly known as Smokeless powder, Nitrocellulose is exactly that-
it does not give off smoke
when it burns.
Materials-
70ml concentrated sulfuric acid
30ml
concentrated nitric acid
5g absorbent cotton
250ml 1M sodium bicarbonate
250ml
beaker
ice bath
tongs
paper towels
Place 250ml beaker in the ice
bath, add 70ml sulfuric acid, 30 ml
nitric acid. Divide cotton into .7g pieces. With tongs,
immerse each piece in
the acid solution for 1 minute. Next, rinse each piece in 3 successive
baths
of 500ml ater. Use fresh water for each piece. Then immerse in 250ml
1M sodium
bicarbonate. If it bubbles, rinse in water once more until no
bubbling occurs. Squeeze dry
and spread on paper towels to dry overnight.
D. Nitroglycerin
Nitroglycerin is a *VERY* dangerous shock sensitive explosive. It is
used in making dynamite,
among other things. I am not sure as to the
proportions and amounts of chemicals to be used,
so I shall use estimates.
Materials-
70ml conc. sulfuric acid
30ml
conc. nitric acid
10 ml glycerin
ice bath
150ml beaker
Put the 150ml
beaker in the ice bath and make sure that it is very
cold. Slowly add the 70ml sulfuric and
30ml nitric acids to the beaker,
trying to maintain a low temperature. When the temperature
starts to level
off, add about 10ml glycerin. If it turns brown or looks funny, **RUN LIKE
If it stays
clear and all works well, keep the temperature as low as you
can and let it sit for a few
hours. You then should have some Nitroglycerin,
probably mixed with nitric and sulfuric
acids. When you set it off, you
must not be nearby. Nitroglycerin can fill 10,000 times its
original area
with expanding gases. This means that if you have 10ml’s of Nitroglycerin
To make it into dynamite, the
Nitroglycerin must be absorbed into
something like wood pulp or diamaeceous earth (spelled
something like that).
_______________________________________________________________________________
Part D:
Other stuff
_______________________________________________________________________________
A. Peroxyacetone
Peroxyacetone is extremely flammable and has been
reported to be
shock sensitive.
Materials-
4ml Acetone
4ml 30%
Hydrogen Peroxide
4 drops conc. hydrochloric acid
150mm test tube
Add 4ml
acetone and 4ml hydrogen peroxide to the test tube. Then add
4 drops concentrated hydrochloric
acid. In 10-20 minutes a white solid
should begin to appear. If no change is observed, warm
the test tube in a
water bath at 40 celsius. Allow the reaction to continue for two hours.
Swirl the slurry and filter it. Leave out on filter paper to dry for at
least two
hours. To ignite, light a candle tied to a meter stick and
light it (while staying at least a
meter away).
B. Smoke smoke smoke…
The following reaction should produce
a fair amount of smoke. Since
this reaction is not all that dangerous you can use larger
amounts if
necessary for larger amounts of smoke.
6g zinc powder
1g sulfur
powder
Insert a red hot wire into the pile, step back. A lot of smoke should
be
created.
_______________________________________________________________________________
Chapter Sixteen: Stars, Flares, and Color Mixtures
_______________________________________________________________________________
This is serious stuff, and can be really dangerous if you don’t treat
it seriously. For you
kids out there who watch too many cartoons, remember
that if a part of your body gets blown
away in the REAL world, it STAYS blown
away. If you can’t treat this stuff with respect,
don’t screw around with it.
Each part will start with a set of safety rules. Don’t skip
over them.
Read ‘em and MEMORIZE ‘em!! At the beginning, there will be a set of general
rules that always apply. Then there will be some things that you HAVE TO KNOW
about the
materials you will be using and making this time. Read it thoroughly
before starting
anything.
Pyrotechnic preparations and explosives are, by their very
nature,
unstable, and subject to ignition by explosion or heat, shock, or
friction. A clear
understanding of their dangerous properties and due care in
the handling of ingredients or
finished products is necessary if
accidents are to be avoided. Always observe all possible
precautions,
particularly the following:
1. Mix only small batches at one time.
This means a few grams, or at
most, an ounce or so. Don’t go for big mixes — they only make
for
bigger accidents. The power of an explosive cubes itself with
every ounce. (9 Ounces
is 729 times as powerful as one ounce.)
2. When weighing chemicals, use a clean piece
of paper on the scale
pan for each item. Then discard the used paper into a bucket of
water before weighing the next ingredient.
3. Be a safe worker. Dispose of any
chemicals spilled on the
workbench or equipment between weighings. Don’t keep open
containers of chemicals on your table, since accidental spillage
or mixing may occur. When
finished with a container, close it, and
replace it on the storage shelf. Use only clean
equipment.
4. Where chemicals are to be ground, grind them separately, NEVER
TOGETHER. Thoroughly wash and clean equipment before grinding
another ingredient.
5. Mixing of batches should be done outdoors, away from flammable
structures, such as
buildings, barns, garages, etc. Mixes should
also be made in NON METALLIC containers to avoid
sparks. Glass
also should not be used since it will shatter in case of an
accident.
Handy small containers can be made by cutting off the
top of a plastic bottle three or four
inches from the bottom. Some
mixes may most conveniently be made by placing the ingredients
in
a plastic bottle and rolling around until the mixture is uniform.
In all cases, point
the open end of the container away from
yourself. Never hold your body or face over the
container. Any
stirring should be done with a wooden paddle or stick to avoid
sparks or
static.
Powdered or ground materials may also be mixed by placing them on
a large
sheet of paper on a flat surface and then rolling them
across the sheet by lifting the sides
and corners one at a time.
6. Never ram or tamp mixes into paper or cardboard tubes.
Pour the
material in and gently tap or shake the tube to settle the
contents down.
7. Store ingredients and finished mixes where they will not be a fire
hazard away from
heat and flame. Finished preparations may be
stored in plastic bottles which will not shatter
in case of an
accident. Since many of the ingredients and mixes are poisonous,
they
should be stored out of reach of children or pets, preferably
locked away.
8. Be
sure threads of screw top containers and caps are thoroughly
cleaned. This applies also to
containers with stoppers of rubber
or cork and to all other types of closures. Traces of
mixture
caught between the container and closure may be ignited by the
friction of
opening or closing the container. Throughout any
procedure, WORK WITH CLEAN CONDITIONS.
9. ALWAYS WEAR A FACE SHIELD OR AT LEAST SHATTERPROOF SAFETY GLASSES.
Any careful
worker does when handling dangerous materials. Be sure
lenses and frames are not flammable.
10. Always wear a dust respirator when handling chemicals in dust
form. These small
particles gather in your lungs and stay there.
They may cause serious illnesses later on in
life.
11. Always wear gloves when working with chemicals.
12. Always wear
a waterproof lab apron.
13. If you must work indoors, have a good ventilation
system.
14. Never smoke anywhere near where you are working.
15. Make sure
there are NO open flames present, and NO MOTORS (they
produce sparks inside.) No hot water
heaters, furnaces, or pilot
lights in stoves!! Sparks have been known to very readily
explode
dust floating in the air.
16. ALWAYS work with someone. Two heads are
better than one.
17. Have a source of water READILY available. (Fire extinguisher,
18. Never, under any circumstances, use any metal to load
chemicals or
put chemicals in. Fireworks with metal casings are worse to handle
than a
live hand grenade. Never use any metal container or can.
This includes the very dangerous CO2
cartridges. Many people have
been KILLED because of flying fragments from metal casings.
Again,
please do not use metal in any circumstance.
19. Always be thoroughly
familiar with the chemicals you are using.
Some information will be included in each bit, but
look for
whatever extra information you can. Materials that were once
thought to be safe
can later be found out to be dangerous stuff.
20. Wash your hands and face thoroughly
after using chemicals. Don’t
forget to wash your EARS AND YOUR NOSE.
21. If any
device you’ve built fails to work, leave it alone. After a
half hour or so, you may try to
bury it, but never try to unload
or reuse any dud.
22. If dust particles start to
form in the air, stop what you are
doing and leave until it settles.
23. Read the
entire file before trying to do anything.
24. NEVER strike any mixture containing
Chlorates, Nitrates,
Perchlorates, Permanganates, Bichromates, or powdered metals don’t
drop them, or even handle them roughly.
These rules may all look like a lot of silly
nonsense, but let’s look
at one example. When the move "The Wizard of OZ" was made,
the actress who
played the good witch was severely burned when one of the exploding special
messed up by the
green coloring used on her face, and the original actor who
played the Tin Man got his lungs
destroyed by the aluminum dust used to
color his face.
The actor we know of as
the tin man was actually a replacement. The
point is, these chemicals were being used under
the direction of people a
lot more knowledgeable of chemicals than you are, and terrible
accidents
still happened. Don’t take this stuff lightly.
We will be using the
following materials this time. Get familiar with
them. Some can be highly dangerous.
Aluminum Dust (and powder) Al
An element used for brilliancy in the fine
powder form. It can be purchased
as a fine silvery or gray powder. All grades from technical
to superpure
(99.9%) can be used. It is dangerous to inhale the dust. The dust is also
flammable, by itself. In coarser forms, like powder, it is less dangerous.
Antimony Sulfide Sb S
2 3
Also known as "Black" Antimony Sulfide.
(There is also a "Red" form, which
is useless to us.) This is used to sharpen the
report of firecrackers,
salutes, etc., or to add color to a fire. The technical, black, powder
is
suitable. Avoid contact with the skin. Dermatitis or worse will be the result.
Barium Chlorate Ba(ClO ) * H O
3 2 2
Available as a white powder. It is
poisonous, as are all Barium salts. It
is used both as an oxidizer and color imparter. It is
as powerful as
Potassium Chlorate and should be handled with the same care. Melting
point is 414 degrees.
Barium Nitrate Ba(NO )
3 2
Poisonous.
Used as an oxidizer and colorizer. The uses and precautions are
the same as with a mixture
containing Potassium Nitrate.
Charcoal C
A form of the element
carbon. Used in fireworks and explosives as a
reducing agent. It can be purchased as a dust on
up to a coarse powder. Use
dust form, unless otherwise specified. The softwood variety is
best, and
it should be black, not brown.
Copper Acetoarsenite (CuO) As O
Cu(C H O )
3 2 3 2 3 2 2
The popular name for this is Paris Green. It is also
called King’s Green
or Vienna Green. It has been used as an insecticide, and is available
fireworks to add
color. Careful with this stuff. It contains arsenic.
Copper Chloride CuCl
2
A color imparter. As with all copper salts, this is poisonous.
Copper Sulfate CuSO *5H O
4 2
Known as Blue Vitriol, this poisonous compound is
available as blue crystals
or blue powder. Can be purchased in some drugstores and some
agricultural
supply stores. Used as a colorizer.
Dextrin
This
can be purchased as a white or yellow powder. It is a good cheap glue
for binding cases and
stars in fireworks.
Lampblack C
This is another form of the element
carbon. It is a very finely powdered
black dust (soot, actually) resulting from the burning of
crude oils. It is
used for special effects in fireworks.
Lead Chloride
PbCl
3
Available as a white, crystalline, poisonous powder, which melts at
501 degrees. As with all lead salts, it is not only poisonous, but the
poison accumulates in
the body, so a lot of small, otherwise harmless doses
can be as bad as one large dose.
Mercurous Chloride HgCl
Also known as calomel or Mercury Monochloride.
This powder will brighten an
otherwise dull colored mixture. Sometimes it is replaced by
100% pure.
Never confuse this chemical with Mercuric Chloride, which is
poisonous in any purity.
Potassium Chlorate KClO
3
This, perhaps, is the most widely used
chemical in fireworks. Before it
was known, mixtures were never spectacular in performance. It
opened the
door to what fireworks are today. It is a poisonous, white powder that is
used as an oxidizer. Never ram or strike a mixture containing Potassium
Chlorate. Do not
store mixtures containing this chemical for any length of
time, as they may explode
spontaneously.
Potassium Dichromate K Cr O
2 2 7
Also known
as Potassium Bichromate. The commercial grade is used in
fireworks and matches. The bright
orange crystals are poisonous.
Potassium Nitrate KNO
3
Commonly called Saltpeter. This chemical is an oxidizer which decomposes at
400 degrees. It
is well known as a component of gunpowder and is also used in
other firework pieces.
Available as a white powder.
Potassium Perchlorate KClO
4
Much more stable than its chlorate brother, this chemical is a white
or slightly pink powder.
It can often substitute for Potassium Chlorate to
make the mixture safer. It will not yield
its oxygen as easily, but to make
up for this, it gives off more oxygen. It is also
poisonous.
Red Gum
Rosin similar to shellac and can often replace
it in many fireworks
formulas. Red Gum is obtained from barks of trees.
Shellac Powder
An organic rosin made from the secretions of insects which live in
India.
The exact effect it produces in fireworks is not obtainable from other gums.
The common mixture of shellac and alcohol sold in hardware stores
should
be avoided. Purchase the powdered variety, which is orange in color.
Sodium
Oxalate Na C O
2 2 4
Used in making yellow fires. Available as a fine dust, which
you should
avoid breathing.
Strontium Carbonate SrCO
3
Known in the natural state as Strontianite, this chemical is used for adding
a red color to
fires. It comes as a white powder, in a pure, technical,
or natural state.
Strontium Nitrate Sr(NO )
3 2
By far the most common chemical used to produce red
in flares, stars and
fires. Available in the technical grade as a white powder. It does
double
duty as an oxidizer, but has a disadvantage in that it will absorb some
water
from the air.
Strontium Sulfate SrSO
4
Since
this chemical does not absorb water as readily as the nitrate, it
is often used when the
powder is to be stored. In its natural state it is
known as Celestine, which is comparable to
the technical grade used in
fireworks.
Sulfur S
A yellow
element that acts as a reducing agent. It burns at 250 degrees,
giving off choking fumes.
Purchase the yellow, finely powdered form only.
Other forms are useless without a lot of
extra and otherwise unnecessary
effort to powder it.
Zinc Dust Zn
Of all the forms of zinc available, only the dust form is in any way
suitable. As a
dust, it has the fineness of flour. Should be either of the
technical or high purity grade.
Avoid breathing the dust, which can cause
lung damage. Used in certain star mixtures, and
with sulfur, as a rocket
fuel.
_______________________________________________________________________________
Chapter
Seventeen: The Chemistry of Pyrotechnics
_______________________________________________________________________________
Most pyrotechnic mixtures follow a very simple set of chemical rules.
We’ll go over those
now. Most mixtures contain an oxidizing agent, which
usually produces oxygen used to burn the
mixture, and a reducing agent, which
burns to produce hot gasses. In addition, there can be
coloring agents to
impart a color to the fire, binders, which hold the mixture in a solid
lump,
and regulators that speed up or slow down the speed at which the mixture
burns.
These are not all the possibilities, but they cover most all cases.
Oxidizing agents,
such as nitrates, chlorates, and perchlorates provide
the oxygen. They usually consist of a
metal ion and the actual oxidizing
radical. For example, Potassium Nitrate contains a metal
ion (Potassium)
and the oxidizing radical (the Nitrate). Instead of potassium, we
could
instead substitute other metals, like sodium, barium, or strontium,
and the chemical would
still supply oxygen to the burning mixture. But some
are less desirable. Sodium Nitrate, for
example, will absorb moisture out of
the air, and this will make it harder to control the
speed at which the
mixture will burn.
In the following examples, we’ll use the
letter "X" to show the presence
of a generic metal ion.
Note that
Nitrates are stingy with the oxygen that they give up. They
only give one third of what they
have.
Some Some
Nitrate Nitrite Oxygen
2XNO —> 2XN0 + O
3
2 2
Chlorates are very generous, on the other hand. They give up all the
oxygen they have. Furthermore, they give it up more easily. It takes less
heat, or less shock
to get that oxygen loose. Mixtures using chlorates
burn more spectacularly, because a smaller
volume of the mix needs to be
wasted on the oxidizer, and the ease with which the oxygen is
supplied makes
it burn faster. But the mixture is also MUCH more sensitive to shock.
Some Some
Chlorate Chloride Oxygen
2XClO —> 2XCl + 3O
3 2
Perchlorates round out our usual set of oxidizing tools. Perchlorates
contain
even more oxygen than Chlorates, and also give it all up. However,
they are not as sensitive
as the Chlorates, so they make mixtures that are
"safer". That is, they’re less
likely to explode if you drop or strike them.
Some Some
Perchlorate Chloride
Oxygen
XClO —> XCl + 2O
4 2
Reducing agents, like sulfur
and charcoal (carbon) simply burn the
oxygen to produce sulfur dioxide and carbon dioxide.
It’s usually best to
include a mixture of the two in a pyrotechnic mixture, as they burn at
different speeds and temperatures, and the proper combination will help
control the
speed of combustion.
Also, when extra fast burning speed is needed, like in rockets
faster the
burning rate. The proportions change the speed, as well.
Magnesium powder or dust is often
used for speed. Aluminum dust works, but
not as well. Zinc dust is used in some cases.
Powdered metal, (not dust)
particularly aluminum or iron, are often used to produce a mixture
that
shoots out sparks as it burns. In rare cases, it is desirable to slow down
the
burning speed. In this case, corn meal is often used. It burns, so acts
as a reducing agent,
but it doesn’t burn very well.
Coloring agents are very interesting. It’s long been
known that
various metals produce different colored flames when burned in a fire. The
reasons are buried in the realm of quantum physics, but the results are what
matters, and we
can present them here. Note that if we use an oxidizing agent
that contains a colorizing
metal, it can do a double job. It can produce
oxygen and color.
Barium -Barium
salts give a pleasant green color. Barium Nitrate is most
often used.
Strontium
-Strontium salts give a strong red color. Strontium Nitrate is a
very convenient material for
red.
Sodium -Sodium salts give an intense yellow color. So intense in fact that
any sodium compounds in a mixture will usually wash out other
colorizers. As has been said,
Sodium Nitrate absorbs moisture from
the air, and so is not really suitable to impart color.
Instead,
Sodium Oxalate is usually used. This does not absorb lots of
water, but has
the disadvantage of being very poisonous.
Copper -Copper salts are used to give a blue
color. Blue is the most
difficult color to produce, and it’s usually not too spectacular.
contains arsenic, and is
very poisonous. Since it still doesn’t
produce a very memorable blue, it’s often used with
mercurous
chloride, which enhances the color, but is also poisonous, and
expensive, to
boot.
Potassium -Potassium salts will give a delicate purple color, if they’re very
pure. The cheaper lab grades of potassium nitrate often contain
traces of sodium, which
completely obscure the purple color. In
order to get the purple coloring, very pure grades
must be used,
and you must be very careful to mix it in very clean vessels, and
scoop it
from the supply jar with a very clean scoop. The color is
certainly worth the effort, if you
can get it.
Some mixtures that burn in colors also contain binders, that hold
stars. The
balls fired from a roman candle or the colorful showers sprayed
from aerial bombs are
examples of stars. Depending on the mixture, the binder
is either a starch called dextrin or
finely powdered orange shellac. A
shellac-like material called red gum is also used on
occasion. In some
mixtures, the shellac powder also helps produce a nice color. Shellac
mixtures are
moistened with water.
If the colored mixture is to be used as a flare, it’s just packed
into a
thin paper tube. If it’s to be fired from a roman candle, it’s usually
extruded
from a heavy tube by pushing it out with a dowel, and the pieces are
cut off as the proper
length pops out. Stars fired from an aerial bomb are
usually made by rolling the moist
mixture flat, and cutting it with a
knife into small cubes. Stars that are extruded are often
called "pumped
stars" those that are rolled out are "cut stars".
The following are formulas for mixtures that burn with various colors.
Parts are by
weight.
Red
Potassium Chlorate 9
Sulfur 2
Lampblack 1
Strontium Nitrate 9
bind with shellac
dissolved in alcohol
Blue
Potassium Chlorate 9 This one is inferior
Copper Acetoarsenite 2 Potassium Chlorate
12
Mercurous Chloride 1 Copper Sulfate 6
Sulfur 2 Lead Chloride 1
bind with
dextrin Sulfur 4
in water bind with dextrin in water
Green
Barium Chlorate 8 Barium Nitrate 3
Lampblack 1 Potassium Chlorate 4
Shellac Powder 1
Shellac Powder 1
bind with alcohol Dextrin 1/4
Bind with alcohol
Yellow
Potassium Chlorate 8 Potassium Chlorate 8
Sodium Oxalate 3 Sodium Oxalate 4
Lampblack 2 Shellac Powder 2
Bind with shellac in Dextrin 1
alcohol or dextrin Bind with
alcohol
in water
White
Potassium Nitrate 6
Sulfur 1
bind with dextrin in
water
Orange
Strontium Nitrate 36
Sodium Oxalate 8
Potassium Chlorate 5
Shellac Powder 5
Sulfur 3
Bind with alcohol
Purple (ingredients must be very pure)
Potassium Chlorate 36 This one has more of a lilac color
Strontium Sulfate 10 Potassium
Chlorate 38
Copper Sulfate 5 Strontium Carbonate 18
Lead Chloride 2 Copper Chloride 4
Sulfur 12 Sulfur 14
Bind with dextrin in Bind with dextrin
in water
water
Brilliant White
Potassium Perchlorate 12
Aluminum Dust 4
Dextrin 1
Bind with water
Golden Twinkler Stars -
Falls through the air and burns in an on and
off manner. The effect is spectacular. A pumped
or cut star.
Potassium Nitrate 18
Sulfur 3
Lampblack 3
Aluminum
Powder 3
Antimony Sulfide 3
Sodium Oxalate 4
Dextrin 2
Bind with water
Zinc Spreader Stars - Shoot out pieces of burning zinc and charcoal.
These stars
are much heavier than usual, and require larger charges if they’re
to be fired from a
tube.
Zinc Dust 72
Potassium Chlorate 15
Potassium Dichromate 12
Granular Charcoal 12
Dextrin 2
bind with water
Electric Stars -
Stars that contain aluminum powder
Potassium Nitrate 15 Potassium Chlorate 60
Aluminum, fine 2 Barium Nitrate 5
Aluminum, medium 1 Aluminum, fine 9
Black Powder 2
Aluminum, medium 4
Antimony Sulfide 3