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CREATED,
WRITTEN, AND TESTED BY VIDEO VINDICATOR
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INTRODUCTION
~~~~~~~~~~~~
Hello and welcome to ANOTHER file by yours truely. I’m
especially proud of
my wonderful ASCII art up there… Nothing had to be misspelled this
time!
As with all my files, I have taken great care to test almost all the methods
described herein. I myself have been very successful at defrauding through
auto theft, and I
feel that you show the initiative to do the same. How can
I tell this? Well, for one, you’re
reading my file, and since you’re reading
this my guess is also that you are a criminal, so
you to have the power. In
this peticular file, I pull some material out of the book "The
Outlaw Papers"
by Lee Lapin and published through Palidan Press. If this has sparked
your
intrest enough, but you want to know even more nuances of the trade, and
some of
the old styles that no longer work, then DEFINANTLY get this book.
Now the objective of this
file is for you not to get a car for free, but to
spend very little on getting a very
expensive car. No matter how you do it
you’ll have to at least spend SOME money, so don’t say
I didn’t tell you.
Towards the end I cover some of the basics that apply to motorcycle theft,
but
they are VERY similar and I hope you are smart enought to figure out in what
ways
they are.
And, once again, it’s time for my disclaimer: I Claim that all the herein
describes the illegal and immoral methods of the aforestated topic. Any
resemblence, applied
or real, to any living or dead person is purely
coincidence, but if it occures, please leave
me mail with his name, address,
DOB, SSN, Visa and MC Numbers, and any other pertainant
information. I take
full responsibility for any illegal use found herein, but none of those
found
hereout. Please do not continue unless you are breathing and have some
idea of
what this file applies towards the herein title of the predescribed
person. Thank you for your
time.
A BASIC OVERVIEW ON THEFT IN GENERAL
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Hell, I’ve always like the idea of taking something from
someone else if they
don’t take the proper precautions… Survival of the fitesst, right?
Well, this
won’t get you on the good side of the judge, but who ever liked those goody-
goody’s anyways. Auto Theft, like any crime, should be done as quickly and
quietly as
possible… You should make sure you know all of the movements of
anyone or anything that
could jepordise your mission, and plan for the anything
to happed, especially the worst. It
never hurt to plan ahead! Make sure to
involve as few people as possible, and tell no one of
what you’re doing, the
more people who know, they more likely you’ll get popped. ALWAYS ALWAYS
ALWAYS
WEAR GLOVES. I cannot stress enough the importance of this, and also use 220
grit
sandpaper and sand the fingertips of the gloves each time, they can match
glove leather
patterns (they’re just like fingerprints)!!! Most people don’t
realize this, and it can be
your downfall. Also, if the cops do somehow come
onto your trail, deny everything to the
bitter end, cops are lying cheating
bastards, and most of them are more devious than even you
(I think most of them
were criminals in their youth, and then decide they could commit crimes
more
easily if they were pigs). The cop is your enemy and will do everything in
his
power to intimidate and trick all the info he can out of you. GET A LAWYER
AND KEEP YOUR MOUTH
-SHUT-. You’ll get away with just about anything if you
just use your common sence and follow
the above rule. Cops CANNOT make deals
(you should know this already, because EVERYBODY says
it), so don’t fall for
their bullshit. Like DRU says, KILL! KILL! KILL!
Theft is a very
risky business, but as with all ciminal activities, it’s very
fun and very profitable, in a
very short time. That is why so many people out
there commit crimes. Now realize this, you
have intelligence on your side,
which makes you a hell of a lot more dangerous than your
average run-of-the-
mill criminals, who bairly can tie their own shoes. Use this knowledge and
your
talent on the computer to the best of your abilities. One file that is old old
old,
but is still sooo true (Tap Issue #86, or the Book of Bioc #1), and I
quote "V. IF THOU
BE IN SCHOOL, STRIVE TO GET THIN SELF GOOD GRADES, FOR THE
AUTHORITIES WELL KNOW THAT SCHOLARS
NEVER BREAK THE LAW." [The 10 Commandments]
WHY EVIL PEOPLE STEAL CARS
Why do such evil scum people steal cars you ask? Well, there
it’s usually
one of four reasons…
TRANSPORTATION - In which case it’s usually
dumped after it’s served some
short term function
PARTS - Meaning the car is striped and
the parts are then sold
CONVERSION - Changing the numbers to match some other car, then
selling it to some poor chump
INSURANCE FRAUD - (Ya!) Taking the car with owners permission to
not only
make money from parting it out, but the insurance claim
as well. Also known as
‘Friendly Thefts’
For the most part, you’ll probably be stealing them for conversion,
or maybe
transportation, but parting a car out usually means you have alot of people
around town that will pay good money and ask very few questions. Also you
not only need the
tools to take the car apart, but a place to do it, and then
a place to dump the frame and
whatever else is unused.
GAINING ENTRY TO THE CAR
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
The Slim Jim is still the most common form of entry to cars. These
can
either be madem, or purchased at any automobile or lock smith ‘collector’
stores.
Many of the newer cars are attempting to get around this by putting
a steal plate over the
locking mechanism, but already there is a new slim
jim out that can get around this slight
inconvienience. If you do decide
that you want to make one, there are lots of files out there
that will tell
you how to make the older of the two, but it still will open around 80% of
model beforehand,
so you can get a hang of how to do it.
Lock picks can be used, but this seems to be a teadious
way at best to
gain entry into the car. I know from experience that trying to pick a lock
Another of the more useful ways is to
purchase a ring of keys from a lock
smith, that covers a certain range and make of car, like
Fords from 1980 to
1990. A ring usually includes 100 to 140 keys, and will open ANY car
within
that range and make. The only disadvantage to this method is that it’s a
bit of a
hastle carring around soooo many damn keys, and it does take a while
to go through the ring
and find the right one. This method has already been
defeated by the 1990+ year Chevrolets’,
which now include a chip on them,
and the car won’t start without the properly coded chip…
Here’s the real
bitch of this, it cuts all power to the car under a failed attempt, and can
One new device is known as the Lemon Pop, and incorporates a piece of
window on
Mercedes, Porche’s, or other push-button locking cars. A loop of
waxed dental floss is then
looped around the post on the door and by yanking
on the dental floss it is simple to unlock
the door.
AN OVERVIEW OF ALL THE TOOLS AND COSTS
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Ok, here is an overview of most of the tools you will
want to get, along
with a general idea of the costs involved, plus their worth (rated on a
scale
from 1 to 10, 10 being the best):
WORTH
ITEM DESCRIPTION PRICE CR/BK WHERE
TO LOCATE
—-+———————–+——–+—–+———————————-
(1) Manufacturer Key Rings $150-up 8/0 At dealership or locksmith comps.
(2) Slide Hammer
$50-100 8/10 A car repair shop or tool shop.
(3) Slim Jim (Both Vers) $50-150 8/0 Most
mailorder locksmiths.
(4) Lock Picks (Spec. Car) $200-up 5/5 Most mailorder locksmiths.
(5) Lemon Pop $10-down 6/0 Build it yourself, it’s basic.
(6) Gloves (DON’T FORGET!) $25-up
10/10 Get a good pair!
(7) Drill/Special Bit $150-up 8/0 Most mailorder locksmiths.
(8)
Liquid Freon $25-50 6/0 Any car supply store.
Ok, the WORTH CR/BK area means the worth
for CARS and BIKES. The liquid Freon
is one thing I didn’t touch on, but it’s really simple.
All you do is spray it
on those little mercury switches, and it will disable them for around
30 to 60
seconds, more then enough time to diable the alarm (also take into account the
+15 secs it takes to reset!).
One note on all the mailorder locksmith companies, almost NONE
of them accept
Visa or MC, so forget about carding from them. They also will sell only to
to
check if you really are what you say you are. Just rent a PO Box from a
place like Mailboxes,
Etc and call it Jimbo’s Lock Service, 1234 Generic Ln
Suite #120, Loserville, WY. They won’t
even think twice. Remember that picking
locks on cars is COMPLETELY different from picking
normal home locks, so it’s
usually wise to pick up books from these places to learn how
(believe me, no
gfile is going to teach you shit unless it’s like 100k and filled with nice
STARTING THE CAR
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
learn how to do
that, pick one of them up. I never was very good at that
anyways (I always got a fucking
shock).
If you do decide to use the key-ring method of entry, you will have the
key to
the ignition (they are the same), so then just slip it in and turn.
A real advantage to this
also is later on this really fulfils the image that
you actually do own the car.
The
only other way I know of is to buy a slide-hammer (or a dent-puller,
whatever you like to call
it), and use it. First screw it into the key slot
and then slam it out. Take a screwdriver and
turn the little explosed tri-
angle thing, and wala, the car starts.
Cars with locked
steering columns can be defeated by one of a number of
devices on the market, like the
SideKick. This incorporates a small drill
bit in order to drill into the core of the lock, and
a device to then
extract the lock. Operation of this with a portable drill requires about
DEFEATING CAR
ALARMS
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Alarms are a kind of joke, they give the owner a great false
sense of security
and they will do things normal drivers wouldn’t (since the ASSUME the
vehicle
is safe). And they will park them in very risky locations, and give you all
the
opporunities you need. One note for people who live in cities like SF, or
any hilly city…
Most alarms won’t work on a hill, and will simply active,
but not take input from the
sensors… An easy kill. Also, about 35% of the
alarms out there are fake, so if it’s some
wierd brand you’ve never encountered
before, or it says something like "WARNING: AUTO
THEFT DEVICE", you can almost
always ignore these feeble attempts at security. Also look
inside the vehicles
that do have real alarms to see if the LED is flashing… Alot of these
losers
will buy the damn alarm and never arm it! Lot of good that is!
All alarms have
some inherant weakness, the key to overcoming them is just
to find this and then exploit it as
best you can. One of the most common
weaknesses in all alarms, except the more expensive, is a
lack of an internal
power supply. What this means, is that if you cut the vehicle from the
disconnect it,
you’ll completely bypass it. Alot of the alarms on the
market protect the interior of the car,
but not the hoop/engine area (like
the Clifford). Some do cover the entire vehicle, like the
Viper or the
Clifford with the proximity sensor, but very few have the latter, and you
know when you run into a Viper.
One fatal weakness that almost everyone that has an alarm does
is plaster
the name of the peticular model all over the car. They feel that this will
ward off any car theif… They would have spent their money more wisely on
stickers with the
cross on them, and hoping God would protect the car. All
this does is help you overcome the
alarm, by identifing what the maker is!
Once you know who makes it, all it takes is a little
research at your local
car sterio dealership to find out it’s weaknesses. I found it best to
ask
the salesman what he has heard about other alarms, and that you’re interested
in
buying the Viper. He’ll see the commission (shit, most of the time you
can practically see the
dollar signs in their eyes) and spill all he knows
or has heard negative about every other
system you bring up.
One slick little trick that works on some of the more expensive alarms
(like
the Viper) is if you take a jack and lift the car about 1 1/2 - 2 feet off of
the
ground it will disable the alarm (since it thinks it’s getting towed, and
it would suck to go
pick up your impounded car just to find your battery dead
because of the lame alarm). This is
usually a very successful method.
VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION NUMBERS (VIN’s)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Here’s a little background on these numbers which all
cars have. VIN
numbers traditionally were subject to the variances of the individual
manufacturers with regard to their makeup as well as the physical chars. of
the VIN plate. In
1978, the NHTSA (Nation Highway Traffic Safty Admin.) set
up rules to define a uniform
standard for VIN numbers. The standard requires
a 17-character fixed format VIN, which
contains an internal check digit to
verify the accuracy of the number.
VIN numbers are
not only stamped into the metal plates, but embossed, making
it very difficult to forge.
Modern VIN numbers are mounted on a plate that
corresponds exactly with the dashboard color of
the car. As a further safe-
guard, all VIN’s are mounted with special rivets. These vary from
square,
to triangles, to hexagons in shape, but as a rule are not available to sell
to
the general public. Almost all DMV employee’s have a book called the
"Passenger Vehicle
Identification Manual", which has high-glossy photos of
all the VIN plates, and notes on
how to decrypt each specific manufatures.
This manual is sold ONLY to law enforcement
personnel, and is worth QUITE
alot to any interested party (for obvious reasons). This book
also contains
the hidden locations of the VIN’s. In 1970, most vehicle manufacturers were
bottom of the
ashtray, under the hood, under the trunk lid, in one or more
door panels, or underneath the
dash. Besides the VIN numbers there is a
frame number stamped into the frame of the car,
motor, and transmission,
which all cross-check with the origional VIN. Because VIN numbers are
only
as good as they are inspected, many states require inspection only by law
enforcement personnel. See REGISTERING THE CAR for more information on this
aspect of
VIN’s.
One half-ass way of forging a VIN is to take a Dymo-labeler which embosses
numbers onto plastic tape, and then glueing it in the proper location. If
not placed under
close scruteny, this method will usually pass the casual
observer.
VEHICLE
CONVERSION
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
In most cases, what you do is swap the VIN and engine
number with those
of an identical make/model that was wrecked. Ok, first off you go to a
big
Auto wrecking yard, and ask for that specific make and model. Most good
places will
have a part-line if they don’t have it, and usually can get it
for you within 48 hours. Since
it really doesn’t matter what shape the car
is in, try to get the most trashed one you can
(since it will most likely
be quite a bit cheaper). Then, when you take possesion of the frame
and
whatever else remains, they give you the pink slip to the piece of trash.
In your
hands you’re holding the pink slip to the car you just stole. Now
go through the car and swap
the VIN’s with the numbers off of the other car.
If you’re lucky, the other car will still
have the origional VIN on the dash
and you can just cut it off and epoxy (don’t glue it) to
the dash. Make
sure to use a cooping saw of something like that in order to cur it, soas
not to damage the sides or the tops of the rivets. This is the most important
thing, because
if you get pulled over, and for SOME reason (it’s never has
happened to me (or at least not
with cars)) they check the VIN’s they will
only look at that one, and it will check out. Boom,
you just scored a new
car.
LOCATING THE TARGET CAR
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Thereare many different ways in which to actually gain possession of
the
car. You just have to see which one best suites you and what you hope to
accomplish.
One good method is to break into cars at airport long-term parking. These
cars are left by their owners, for a good period of time, usually enough for
you to do all the
nessecary changes before the car even shows up as stolen
on the polices computer (since the
guy has to come back and discover the car
gone before he can report it stolen).
Another
good method is to look through the For Sale portion of the news-
paper, and pick whatever car
you are specifically looking for, then schedule
a time when you can go look at the car. At
this time you can evaluate the
security system (if any) on the car, and judge it’s worth.
Then, wait around
a week or two and then go steal it. Another advantage of this is you can
get
an idea of the persons work schedule when you try to set up a time to meet.
You can
also follow the person to see when the best time would be to make
an attempt on the car.
Used car dealership and new car dealerships sometimes leave the key to the
car in either the
glove compartment, sun visor, or door-map thingy. If this
is the case, go look at the cars
during the day, take the key, then return
several days later with the keys and take the car.
Make sure to take a bolt-
cutter to cut the wire most dealerships put up across the wire. No
reason
to wreck that nice new car yet.
One thing to always keep in mind is it’s better
to steal a car from as far
away as possible, this way if the owner is trucking around, he
doesn’t have
much of a chance seeing it. The last thing you want is Joe Owner running
down the street after you screaming "Hey! That’s my car!".
REGISTERING
THE CAR
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
After you have renumbered the VIN’s on the car, it’s time to
get it
registered in whatever state you live in. Actually, you want to do this
step
BEFORE you renumber the VIN’s, so you know where it’s located on the
vehicle. Enclosed below
is a list of all the states and their peticular
registration requirements…
INSPECTION REQ. ON ALL CARS : Kansas, Maine (1975+), Mississippi,
Nevada
INSPECTION REQ.
ON SELECT CASES -
First Time/New Cars Alaska, Arizona, Dist. of Columbia,
Idaho, Iowa,
Kentucky, Wisconsin,
New Hampsire
Used Cars : Maryland, Massachusetts
Out-of-State
Cars : California, Colorado, Conneticut,
Delaware, Hawaii (ya), New Mexico,
Ohio,
Oklahoma, Oregon, Pennsylvania,
Utah, Washington
From Non-Title States : Georgia
When discrepancies are noted: Michigan, New York
INSPECTION REQ. NO CONDITIONS : Arkansas,
Minnesota, Rhode Island,
Wyoming
OWNER RESPONSIBLE FOR INSPECTION : New Jersey,
Virgina
INSPECTION NOT REQUIRED : Illinois, Louisiana, Missouri,
Montana, Nebraska,
North Carolina,
South Carolina, South Dakota, Texas,
Tennessee
NO INFORMATION
LISTED ON INSPECT.: West Virginia
Now I know that in California (one of the hardest),
when you take your car
in they do what’s called a Vehicle Verification, and they have this
nice
little paper they fill out. Now, registration is not the only time that
you need to
get a VV done… Some insurance companies require you to go to
the DMV and get one as well.
This is your key to forging whatever you want.
First go inside, and request some blank ones
(get like 5), then leave and
drive your car over by where people take tests. Now wait for a
DMV loser to
come out and check your vehicle. After they go through (take note of where
all the VIN’s were located) get the VV and go home. Now you have a copy the
way it SHOULD be
filled out, so just fill out one of the blanks with the
info you want and submit it, believe
me, no questions will be asked at the
ever-busy DMV.
I personally would register it
under a fake name, and then either sell it
to someone, or make a phony sale to your real
identitiy, thus covering up
any trail that might have pointed to you.
SELLING THE CAR
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
You’ve pretty much overcame the hard part, and now it’s
all downhill. To
sell the car, simply put an add in the paper, and ask a price a little
less
that the going rate, but not so low as to draw attention to it.
A new key-ignition
and lock system can be purchased at your dealership for
around $100 or maybe a little more
(depending on how messy you were). The
best way to do it usually is this: Use the 140-key
keyring to find the proper
key. Make a copy of it (so as not to break your set), and then go
down to
the dealership and buy a new key-ignition. This way you save a little money
and
still have the key [Note: you do this when you used a slim jim to gain
entry, then a
slide-hammer to start it]. Replacing the locks in the doors
and trunk can be a real bitch
(well, the trunk isn’t, but the doors sure as
hell are), so I usually try to avoid this
drastic measure.
RENTAL CAR SCAM - NO TITLE STATES
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
In no title states, you can sell any car without having the
actual pink
slip. The idea behind this is that the DMV will save alot of paperwork since
the car was already checked when it was purchased or brought into the state.
If you want to
know if your peticular state is a no title or not, just call
the DMV and ask… Simple as
that.
Anyways, one total scam is to go to a car rental place, and rent one under
a fake
name. Then, remove all the stickers that say the name of the rental
place, and use Energine to
remove the difference in color/paint below. Then
you take it to a used car dealership and sell
it to them! They will check
with the NCIC to make sure the car isn’t stole (which, of course,
it won’t
be because you just rented it), then take the check to a bank and cash it
under
the same fake name. Even if your ID is a piece-of-shit, the used car
guy will call up and
verify it, so it will go through. Then, in a week or
so the rental car place reports it
stolen, and wham, the used car dealership
gets burned bigtime!
INSURANCE
FRAUD AND YOU
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
This is usually done when you already own a car,
stolen or real, and then
claim it was stolen, or was in a wreck to get the money from your
local bend-
over-and-smile insurance company. The way I feel about insurance is this:
You put in tons of money to this worthless company to pay for your shit when
it gets ripped
off, so why not use it to it’s full advantage. The best way to
do insurance fraud is to find
your local chop-shop and sell them your car, then
call the cops and report it stolen. Make
sure you have ALL your facts straight
when you do this, because the cops will think somethings
up if you aren’t
careful, and then you’re out the car AND the cash. One good point to this
is
to make a dup of the key, then give it to the chop-shop, set up a time and a
spot for
them to come pick up the car (like at a mall, at 2:00, when it is
totally busy), then when
you’re in the mall with your friends (witnesses) you
leave to find your car gone… Now who
could possibly do such a terrible thing?
The key thing on this is to make sure you’ve had the
insurance for some time,
and that you have it paid up, because believe me, they will drop you
like a
hot potato. Insurance fraud is especially good with motorcycles, since they
are
so easy to get rid of, and can be parted off so easily.
NOTES ON INSURANCE
FRAUD
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Well, if you decide you like the idea of getting your car
replaced by the
stupid insurance companies, heres a little info on how they classify
insurance
reports. They break them up into four different categories: caused, intended,
staged, and paper (these are all fraudulant ways, there is of course the real
classification,
when it really was stolen or whatever).
CAUSED - It’s a sort of demolition derby, in which the
participants ride
around in some piece of shit and look for well-insured victims
to
collide with. Good victims are a bus, taxicab, or a new
expensive car. One excellent method of
this is called the
‘Swoop-and-Squat’ method, in which two evil cars surround an
honest,
upright citizen. Bad guy number two then swoops in frout
of bad guy number one, and he brakes
suddenly (refered to as
squating). Bad guys number one breaking then causes our poor
victim to slam into the back of him… In any caused accident
there are usually several people
riding in the car who all have
whiplash or brain damage or whatever so they all claim
medical
injuries and scam the insurance for the cost plus loss of work,
The medical
bills are then faked and submitted to the stupid
Insurance company, and you recieve a nice,
fat check.
INTENDED - It’s when two or more cars are used in a planned collision. All
of
the participants are defrauders; and they usually use rental
cars in this scam.
STAGED -
There is no real collision in this scam. The evil people set up
a fake wreck, complete with
banged-up junkers, broken glass, dead
bodies, whatever, and take pictures as evidence to
submit to the
insurance companies. These are usually discovered though, because
the same
cars are used in many accidents and the investigator
might recognize one.
PAPER - Much
like a variation of the Paper car technique of auto theft,
the paper insurance scam involves
you creating a fake car in a
state that does not require an inspection of the vehicle. Then
three months you report it
stolen and get the money.
INSURANCE FRAUD INDICATORS
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Here’s a list of insurance fraud indicators (taken from the book
‘Money for
Nothing’) which will hopefully help you in becoming less suspicious. Fraud
may be indicated when a claimant or insured is:
o Overly eager for a speady settlement.
o Unusually eager to take the blame for the accident.
o Exceptionally coversant (well versed)
with insurance, medical, or vehicle
repair terminology.
o Insistent that the claimant
caused the accident (The ICPI then suspects
that the insured is playing along with the ring of
evil-do’ers who staged
the accident.
General elements that point indirectly to fraud
are:
o A rental vehicle was involved in the accident.
o The vehicle in the claim
contains three or more unrelated people when it
is struck.
o The police report was not
made at the scene of the accident, or there
was no police report made (believe me, they do
check).
o The accident happened soon after one or more of the vehicles involved
was
registered and insured; or a month or less before the policy was due
to expire; or soon after
insurance coverage was increased to include
comprehensive and collision.
o A post-office
box or hotel is given as an address for one or more of the
claimants
o The claimant
shows an active claim histore (meaning they have been in
one or more wrecks within the last
five to ten years.
Property damage fraud or inflation may be indicated when:
o All of
the vehicles involved in the accident are taken to the same shop
to be repaired.
o The
accident is major, but there are no subjectively diagnosed injuries.
o The collision is minor,
but the repair costs are high.
o Although the vehicle could not have been driven away from the
scene of
the accident, according to the police record and the vehicle was not at
scene
of the crime; with no towing fees.
o Bodyshop employee’s or owner discourage an insurance
appraiser from
looking at a vehicle involved in the accident.
Medical fraud may be
suspected when:
o All medical injuries are those called subjective diagnosed, including
headaches, whiplash, and muscle spasms.
o The medical bills submitted are photocopies,
especially third or fourth
generation.
o The collision is minor, but the injuries,
especially subjectively
diagnosed injuries, are excessive.
o The medical bills submitted
to not itemize office visits and treatments.
Lost earnings claims may be inflated when:
o The submitted employment information is from a small business, especially
a business with a
post-office box as an address.
o When the business phone number given to the claim is called,
it is an
answering machine or service.
o The claimant started the job just before the
accident.
o The statement of lost earnings was not typed up on the company letterhead.
o
The lost earnings statement has items which do not concur with elements
of the claim; for
example, the income earned my not be appropriate to
the neighborhood listed.
This
list is by no means complete, but it gives you a general idea of what is
going to make an
investigator look twice. Be causious, since I know for a fact
that some insurance companies
hire people to watch you 24 hours a day for
MONTHS! This may seem extreme, but realize this,
one bust deters a hundred
people from attempting it (at least).
THE
MOTORCYCLE AND THEFT
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
The methods which you employ when stealing
a motorcycle are very similiar to
those of a car, except everything is alot simplier. Most
motorcycles have VIN
numbers located under the seat, on the front of the bike between the
forks, and
on a plate on the side of the frame (a sticker). Now I found the easies way
to renumber a bike is this, simply take the sticker off that is under the seat,
take the
sticker off the side of the bike, and put the other bike’s sticker on
over the VIN which is
stamped on the frame between the forks. Then follow the
normale registration procedure.
Some of the advantages of motorcycles are the fact they are alot easier to
sell due to the
fact of the lesser price tag, and the fact that if you get
chased a normal police car doesn’t
have a chance in hell of catching you. It
is also very easy to part out a bike on your own,
without even dealing with a
middleman. Simply steal a bike that matches the same model as a
pick that you
have, then any salvage shop will by the parts from you (as long as you can
prove
you own that peticular model bike). You can easily sell the farings (the
plastic
which cover the bike, for all you non-bike losers) for around $1000,
since they carry a value
of $1500+! That’s a pretty penny, and you’ve still
got TONS of parts left over to sell.
Believe me, bike parts cost a fortune.
You can strip a bike completely, then sell the frame of
any standard delta-
box bike (like the GSX-R’s, FZR’s, ZX-series, CBR’s, etc) to your local
re-
cycler, since it’s all alluminum (worth around $100-150). Not only are you
helping
your pocket, but the environment as well, and we all really give a
shit about the world.
Starting the bike is simple as well, except for ‘88 or earlier Suzuki GSXRs
since they have a
seperate lock in the forks (why they discontinued this I’ll
never know). All you need to do is
one of the following:
o If the bike is locked, use a slidehammer, screw it into the
ignition, slam
it out, put a screwdriver in the hole and turn to the right. This will
unlock and start the bike.
o If the bike is unlocked, force a screwdriver in the keyhole, and
turn to
the right.
o If the bike is unlocked, and you buy a ignition system for this
model,
disconnect the real ignition system, plug in yours and turn the key. The
leads
should be right behind the instrument cluster and relatively easy
to gain access to…
Now the parts you would be smart to buy beforehand are the following:
o A new
instrument cluster (price $150 and up). This will give the bike a
new mileage.
o A key
ignition set (price $200 and up). This will replace all the locks
in the bike with new ones
(which you have the key for).
o New farings (price $1400 and up). Sell the origional farings
for the
same year different color scheme. Most bike manufacturers make 2 to 3
different
color bikes.
o An instruction book on the specific bike (price $20 and up). These damn
books aren’t cheap, but they will give you a good overview of the bikes
security, plus the
location of the VIN’s.
The biggest negative factor in stealing bike is this (just as
your life was
getting easy): The also check the Motor Number when registering it. This is a
cop will
never check this when you get pulled over (although they will sometimes
do spot checks on the
VIN’s). Wait at least two months before you try to sell
it (if you aren’t going to part it
out), believe me, all owners will recognize
their bikes and will be looking for them. Most
people don’t have insurance
that covers theft, so they’re out of luck. Whatever you do, don’t
sand down
the faring and spray-paint it… Not only does this FUCK the value, but every
cop in the world knows thats what losers do when they steal bikes.
ONE FINAL
NOTE: THE LAW AND YOU
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
One little trick of the law with
car theft is this. If they catch you in
the car, there is no way of conning your way out of
it, so manipulate the
situation to your advantage. Tell them you just bought the car, and if
they
ask to see the bill of sale, ALWAYS have one ready ahead of time. They can’t
through you in jail for being stupid, and you really have no way of checking
to see if the car
is stolen until you actually go to the DMV. In a worst
case scenerio this will get you a
Possesion of a Stolen Vehicle charge, or
maybe a Joyriding (depending on the length of time
the car is gone), but
either of these is ALOT better than Grand Theft Auto.
Remember
that like all crimes, your age (specifically if under 18) is your
free get-out-of-jail card.
No matter how many mistakes you make they still
will only slap your wrist (and don’t give me
that shit that juvenile hall is
hell, because it’s not). Steal, Lie, and Cheat as much as you
can, while you
still can, and you’ll live a much happier life.
Chop shops are frowned
upon heavily by the law, and if at all possible try
to give as little of your true identity
away to these individuals. They are
the real high-risk takers, since if the cops hit
something, they tend to hit
the big operations (which almost always revolve around a chop
shop). Also keep
in mind that the police do also set up traps off and on, if there is enough
of
a problem, and that the trap will be in the form of a chop shop.
Also, one reason not
to include others in when busted (roughly translated,
why not to narc) is the fact that they
with punish you twice as much if they
have any proof that it was some sort of auto theft ring
(and the police consider
a ring to consist of two or more peope). So don’t be lame, keep your
mouth
shut.
OTHER FILES COMING SOON
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
CBI ACCOUNTS & LOCATION HELPER - Lists alot of the CBI accounts
NUMBER TWO and their
appropriate companies.
Also includes a more complete
breakdown of how to decrypt
acnts.
RELEASE DATE AROUND 10/91
THE COMPLETE CBI MANUAL - Will be a compilation of many
sources
on the different uses of CBI. Will
cover ALL aspects of CBI, from logon
procedures to pullup types!
RELEASE DATE AROUND 10/91
IDENTITY HOPING, FOR FUN &
PROFIT - Will cover how to take over
PART ONE someones identity, and do eveything
from
get an ID to getting loans!
RELEASE DATE AROUND 11/91
IDENTITY HOPING, FOR FUN &
PROFIT - Will cover methods of forging ID’s
PART TWO and the auxilliary documents you need.
mailorder ID companies!
RELEASE DATE AROUND
12/91
WHERE TO GET EXOTIC WEAPONS - Update to my origional file, with more
NUMBER TWO
exotic weapons than ever before!
RELEASE DATE AROUND 12/91
Catch these and more
on the way at any of the BBS’s listed below! They will
definantly get them first…
CONCLUSION
~~~~~~~~~~
I hope this file helps you in all your most illegal
exploits, and I hope
to see you on America’s Most Wanted, or Unsolved Mysteries… Here’s a
always thought it
was supposed to be like a ‘Project: Blue Book’ type show,
talking about wierd occurances, but
ever time I watch that stupid fucking
show I see something around how Grandma got frauded by
some love-swindler
and now he’s on the loose… What a joke! Wanna-be show!
I’m always
interested in new scams, or to hear of your experiences with any
of the methods described
within any of my files, so just get in touch with me.
I also appreciate any ideas anyone can
give me on other avenues of fraud to
research (I love hacking as well, but there just isn’t
any money in it!)
Anyways, enough of that, now for the ever-present greetings… The White
Hack,
/<ludge, Grandmaster Ratte’, Strato Viper (who helped me test most of the
methods
described) and anyone else who I forgot, who was worth mentioning!!
And just remember…
"But I just bought it yesterday. Honestly officer!"
=============================================================================
Demon Roach [PW:
THRASH cDc Board - A Classic - GREAT] 3-24 806-794-4362
Scantronics [Dedicated to
telecommunictions since 1987] 3-24 619-423-4852
The Works [Tons of Files cDc Board Give it a
call ] 3-24 617-861-8976
=============================================================================
This concludes
another wonderful file by Video Vindicator (C)opyright 1991
=============================================================================
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