Electrical Timers Using the "555"IC

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[Terrorizing Northwest calgary since 1986]
"THE RELEASING OF ANGER CAN BETTER ANY
MEDICINE UNDER THE SUN" - Pantera

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"Don’t know if i’ll
blast, maybe I’ll just throw
Maybe I’ll kick down something special
But believe me,
you’re gonna know
You Should have thought before you got it started
‘Cause everything
has got an end
Ain’t no sloppy fool that’s innocent
We call this mutha revenge"
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- Suicidal Tendencies

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The reason I
decided to type this up was that I saw another file (AHP07.ZIP)
with instructions for a 555
timer. It does not work, so I decided to release
to the public my version of the time bomb
circuit. (Note that although
that particular device did not work, the other AHP files are
worth a look -
Schematics for stun guns, FM transmitters, and other necessities)
/> In future look for my own FM Transmitter which has a 2 mile
range and can be hooked up to
a microphone, telephone, etc..
It’s too complex for me to bother writing a file about now,
but maybe I
will SOMEDAY release it as purely a schematic and assume you know what you’re /> doing instead of walking you through every step like in this file.

What is
it?

This is a neat little circuit which will allow you to make an electronic

time-bomb type device (sorry, no cool little LED numbers and clicking sounds
like you always
see in movies though). This is actually two separate circuits -
#1 - a timer which triggers a
relay, and #2 - the relay controlled ignition
circuit. After looking at the schematic, you
may wonder what the point of the
relay circuit is - why not just put the igniter in place of
the relay coil
on circuit one? The answer is this: There is not enough current to burn the

steel wool, due most likely to the resistance of the 555 timer, and maybe other

factors… I’m not sure, I just know that the steel wool doesn’t burn. So,
the second circuit
is completely independant of the first one, except for the
relay which switches the current
on after the timer is triggered. Therefore,
you will need two nine volt batteries for this
circuit to work. Oh well.

Parts list:

You can buy these at
a electric parts store, or salvage them from garage junk,
or whatever. DON’T buy them from
Radio Shack - The 555 timers cost $3 EACH,
and you can buy them for about 55 cents elsewhere.
(ask the electronics teacher
in your school, or look in the phone book)

S1,S2 - Any working Switch - whatever you can salvage
C1 - any value capacitor (keep reading
for info)
R1 - Resistor, value depends on desired delay (keep reading for info)
IC1 -
555 timer
Two 9V batteries
Small Relay (grab it from one of those 100 in 1 electric
kits, or buy one)
IC socket
PC Board kit (would really help - or use Perfboard)

Wire, Solder, Solder pencil, Electrical tape, etc…

See the GIF
included - TIMER.GIF - for schematic.
You should have no problem viewing it in CGA, EGA, or
VGA, if you have CSHOW.

Just in case you’re not sure, the pin numbers on the IC
(555 timer) are
as follows:

|——-\ /——-|
| \_/ |
—-| 1 8
|—-
| |
—-| 2 7 |—-
| 555 timer |
—-| 3 6 |—-
| | /> —-| 4 5 |—-
| |
|——————-|

(make sure you don’t
accidentally do what I originally did - which
was to think that pin #8 was number 5, 7 = 6, 6
= 7, 5 = 8 - that
seems more logical, so it’s easy to forget when soldering)

Building:

To determine the value of resistor and capacitor to use for your desired
time,
use the following formula:

Time (in seconds) = 1.1 x R x C

Therefore, to obtain a time of 15 seconds you would:

1. Find a good quality capacitor
from junk you have laying around.
(in this example, say it’s 50 ‘F (micro-farads))

(*** IMPORTANT: change Micro-farads to farads first - divide by 1,000,000)

(pF
- pico-farads are 1,000,000th of a ‘F (micro-farad) - probably too
small for this circuit)

2. Determine the resistor value to use:

Time = 1.1 x R x C

15 = 1.1 x R x 0.000050

15
R = ————–
(1.1 x 0.000050)

15
R = ————–
0.000055

R = 272727.27
ohms

Therefore, for an approximate 15 second delay, you would need a resistance

close to 272,727 ohms. (272k)

(when I wired this up, I wanted approximately a 10
second delay, so I used
a 50K resistor. Before adding the relay, the time was 13 seconds.
After
adding the relay & shit, the time decreased to 7 seconds. I have NO idea

why. Just keep this in mind. Maybe it was pure luck in my case, or bad
soldering. I don’t
know…)

3. Find a resistor near the determined value, and solder your circuit
up
(using wires, a Printed Circuit Board, Perfboard, or whatever you have
around). />
To aid you in salvaging resistors from old parts, I have decided to
describe the
color band system of marking resistances on resistors.
If you know all this already, skip to
#4.

Reading resistor color bands:

1st band = 1st digit in number

2nd band = 2nd digit in number
3rd band = Number of zeros after first two digits
4th
band = Tolerance (ALWAYS Gold or Silver)

To read, make sure the gold or silver band
(sometimes looks greenish) is
on the right.. Then the numbers are as follows:

Black = 0 The final band is either Gold or Silver…
Brown = 1 These are tolerance levels and
aren’t really
Red = 2 important for this circuit…
Orange = 3 Silver = 10%

Yellow = 4 Gold = 5%
Green = 5
Blue = 6
Violet = 7

Remember this
as BB ROY G BV… Trust me, it helps once you have
memorized this.. You can remember which B
is brown and which is black
since Black is the absence of color, therefore black is 0… />
Now an example:

You find a resistor in your junk box with the following
colors:

1st - Red 2nd - Red 3rd - Yellow 4th - Gold

Since Red = 2 and
Yellow = 4 this resistor is equal to 22 followed by
4 zeros or 220,000 (220K). The gold band
is the tolerance which is
5% (most common).. This means it could be 5% off of the marked
value,
so the resistance of this particular resistor will fall between
209,000 ohms
and 231,000 ohms.

4. Attach the positive terminal of a 9V battery to one wire
of a switch (not
shown on Schematic diagram), and the two positive inputs on the circuit /> to the other wire of the switch. This is your "ARM" switch. Mark it as
such.
When this switch is off, there is no way in hell the thing will
go off, but to be extra
cautious, you might want to add another switch
in series with the relay (switch part) and the
other nine volt battery. This
will be a bit of a pain though (putting three switches on the
device
is just asking for trouble/confusion), so don’t do it unless you really
are
paranoid, or are building a pipe bomb big enough to blow
up the world trade center.

5. Now, the fun part. Find a suitable container (I used the top half of a

plastic 1.25 litre 7-UP bottle, and the bottom hard plastic thing as a
removable cover to
change the batteries), and make two holes for the switches,
sized and placed according to
what the switches you used are like. Make sure
you mark which way is on. Turn both switches
off, and fasten into place with
the movable part sticking through the hole. Mark them as
"ARM" and
"TIMER" with tape or something. Now, everything should fit into
the
container. Make two small holes for your igniter leads, and feed them through.

Place the circuit in the container, put the two batteries in their clips, and
close the
container. You now have a portable timer system. To use it, FIRST
turn the "TIMER"
switch ON. AFTER, and ONLY AFTER the "TIMER" switch
is ON, turn the "ARM"
switch ON. Now, as soon as you turn the "TIMER"
switch OFF, the countdown will
begin. Run like hell! This sequence may
seem a bit strange, but believe me, it’s necessary.
Just try it using an
LED (light emitting diode) and you will see it works. Once again, the
sequence
is: (You should clip & print the text below, and tape it to the device)

Keep Both switches OFF at all times except when using.
When ready to use:
/> #1: "TIMER" turn ON.
#2: Connect bomb (ARM is OFF and TIMER is ON)
#3:
"ARM" turn ON.
#4: "TIMER" turn OFF. (starts timer)
#5: Run like
hell.

That’s it. You are now the proud owner of you own, home built, electrical

timer. Just make sure you always use fresh 9V batteries and it will rarely,
if ever,
fail. Suggested uses:

#1: AGT green boxes! Make a nice big pipe bomb with plain old
easily
obtainable Black Powder, and blast the hell out of those ugly green boxes.
Just
make sure you do it in a different neighborhood than your own - unless
you want your own
phone service fucked up for a while… AGT charged me,
so I will "charge" their
boxes! BOOOM! Just rip one open with a wrench,
and put in a timer/bomb with a 30 min delay.
Walk away. Return in 25
mins, and just unsuspiciously watch the fireworks (pretend you are

pondering the wonders of a nearby storm sewer grate or something - haha)

#2:
Green transformer boxes (I haven’t openend one of these, but i’m sure it
could be done…
but, I have this thing about thousands of volts of
electricity…. ) I bet one of these would
go out in a nice explosive
shower of sparks!

#3: Cars! Cars! Cars! Some idiot
with an Acura NSX really pissing you
off? Piss him off by attaching one of these to the
bottom of his car,
preferably near the gas tank. Make sure it’s powerful enough to destroy

the thing.

#4: Leave in a public place - mall garbage can, downtown on the
street,
whereever lots of people are gathered. I really REALLY would love
to see
something like that on 2&7 Newsfirst. (especially if I had
the satisfaction of knowing I
was the one who caused it!)

#5: Mail boxes! Fuck the postal service by dropping one in
a mail box.
Come back and pick up the scattered letters - maybe you will find

something interesting!

Hell, just be creative… This device can be used for
whatever you like -
a 10 second delay to run from homemade fireworks or a 3 hour delay to /> place a pipe-bomb in a bus terminal… Whatever you do, Just have fun,
and don’t be dumb
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡Â
and blow your own hand off! Just blow someone else’s off!

¡Â¡Â¡Â¡Â¡Â¡Â¡Â¡Â¡Â¡Â¡Â¡Â¡Â¡Â¡Â¡Â¡Â¡Â¡Â¡Â¡Â¡Â¡Â¡Â¡Â¡Â¡Â¡Â¡Â¡Â¡

The maximum resistor you
can reliably use is approx. 3.3 Mega-ohms (3,300,000
ohms). Using an R1 value of 3.3M ohms,
and a C1 value of 0.5 Farads, you could
construct a device which would go off after 1,815,000
seconds
(1.1 x 3,300,000 x 0.5), or 30,250 minutes, or 504 hours, or 21 days! 3 weeks!

If you were sure of what you were doing, you could construct an explosive which
you could
leave somewhere 3 weeks ahead of the time you want it to go off
(assuming your battery
doesn’t run down first!).

The accuracy would probably decrease depending on the time
you wish to use,
so you can only make it go off at a general time (ie: you couldn’t make /> a device go off at exactly 12:04, 17 days from now, but you could most likely
make one to
go off at approx 12 noon tomorrow, and you could definately make
one go off in almost exactly
45 seconds))

Electric ignitor:
—————–

For a simple electrical ignitor, see the GIF included, IGNITE.GIF. This
is simple to
use, and when attached to the terminals (T1 & T2) of this device,
makes an excellent
ignitor. You can make a small blasting cap out of black
powder and this ignitor. You could
also construct a pipe-bomb from black
powder, and use the ignitor to set it off.
/> *** VERY IMPORTANT ***

The entire length of steel wool of the ignitor absolutely
MUST be in contact
with the black powder. Otherwise you may have a misfire.

If
you happen to have lots of money and nothing to spend it on, you could
buy electrical
ignitors for model rocketry (called "Solar Ignitors" for some
stupid reason). These
would be more reliable and better for those devices where
misfires would really piss you off.
]ŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽ

ŽŽŽŽ[ Diabolical G D ŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽ

• Delay Detonator
• Electrical Delays
• How to make Electrical Timers
• Phrack Inc Volume Three, Issue 28
• INSTRUCIONS FOR TIMERS AND PRIMERS FOR EXPLOSIVES