Successful Carding
Written by Genocide
/————————————————————————\
| All of the
information in this file is meant to be entertaining |
| reading only. If you actually do any
of the things written here, you |
| are going to get in trouble and you are completely
responsible for your |
| own mistakes. I hold no claim to anyone’s stupid actions but my own.
|
\————————————————————————/
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
There
have been many files written in the past on carding, and alot of the
information they have
given has been good, and alot of it has been complete
shit that will get you arrested in a
second. Since I’ve had a fair amount of
experience with it myself, I decided to share the
wealth a little. This file
is mainly written for beginners, but I’ve thrown in a few things,
some of them
fairly obvious, that alot of people don’t think of.
I.
ACQUIRING CARDS
Getting the card numbers is probably the easiest part of the entire
/> carding process. While computerised card machines in stores has hurt the good
old ‘carbons
from the trash’ routine, there are still many possible ways to get
valid numbers. What you
need to copy down or memorize or whatever when you
get the card is the card type (visa,
discover, etc.), name, number (no shit!),
expiration date (usually given in MM/YY format).
/>
Numbers are in the following formats:
Visa XXXX XXX XXX XXX ,or
XXXX XXXX XXXX
XXXX
Discover XXXX XXXX XXXX XXXX
AmEx XXXX XXXXXX XXXXX
MasterCard XXXX XXXX XXXX
XXXX
Visa #’s begin with a 4 (4XXX XXX XXX XXX), Discover with a 6, AmEx with
a
3, and MasterCard with a 5. A quick insert here–there is a nice little
utility out there
called CHECK.EXE that will check the format of the card.
There are certain patterns and orders
that the numbers follow (almost like the
#’s in a DL, only less stringent). The utility won’t
tell you if a card is
good, but it will check the format of the numbers.
Most of
the machines that have replaced the carbon imprint card machines
are computerized magnetic
scanners. Fortunately, they still print up a reciept
with all the important information on it.
The reciepts that are given to the
customers are usually yellow, but if you’re going trashing
at the store look
for the white ones. They’re about and inch and a half wide and usually at
/> least two or three inches long, even if someone only bought one thing. If you
feel more
ambitious, you can go looking through a banks trash, and while you
usually won’t find the full
card information, you might find a piece of it
with a name. Just look up that person’s phone
number in you’re trusty phone
book and give ‘um a ring. Calls usually don’t work, but they
usually won’t
get you in any trouble either. Never try to get the actual number doing
this, no one is that stupid. If you have no other options though, it’s worth
a try. Here’s an
example of a call that got us the valued expiration date:
(dial shithead’s number)
/>
Shithead: Hello?
Us: Hello, this is Fuckyouover bank calling, is Mr. Shithead
home,
please?
Shithead: Uh, yeah that’s me. (they’ll usually think they’ve
overdrawn their
checking account or you’re going to repossess their car or some
other
fun thing like that)
Us: Mr. Shithead, we’ve had a slight computer problem here and
are
missing a few pieces of information from your file. Do you hold
a Fuckyouover Bank
Visa, number lalalalalalalala (or say whatever
info you’ve got on them, just don’t be too
creative).
Shithead: Yes, I do. Why, what’s wrong? (people always get uptight when
/> talking to someone from the bank)
Us: Like I said, we’ve had a slight computer
problem and we need to get
some more info about your card from you.
At this
point, just start asking whatever you need. You might want to
try starting up by asking about
a checking account or ATM before you throw
the credit card question into the ring. If you
think the person might know
something about computers, dont tell them the system crashed, or
they’ll wonder
why the hell you didn’t have a backup and see right through your scam.
Another way to get info over the phone is to call and say you’re from a
place they’ve
bought products from. The best way to do this is to watch for
someone to get a UPS package,
then steal it. Keep whatever is in it, unless
it’s shit then just toss it, and look on the
invoice to see if they paid by
credit card. Card numbers are almost never on invoices, but
since they won’t
be getting their shit, just call and say, "Hi this is XXX porno video
club (or
whatever) calling. There was no credit card info on the form we received from
you." Or say you suspected fraud and have him repeat back the numbers and
other needed
info to you. The words ’suspected fraud’ work especially well
if it’s from a place like
Time-Life or off TV, because it’s phone in and that’s
the easiest way to use stolen card info
(a bad bad thing to do…). I’ve had
to do something like this ligitimately when people have
given bad numbers or
wrong numbers over the phone at the place I work, so its not like this
never
happens legally.
If you’re going to talk to Mr Shithead over the phone,
remember to only
call during regular business hours, always be polite and act like someone
who
would really work for this place. And if they’re not home, DON’T LEAVE A
MESSAGE! If
they decide to call back the real place, you’re fucked because
they’ll know someone is
scamming them and their cards will probably be watched,
so basically don’t be a moron. If you
use your head you won’t get caught.
II. CHOOSING A DELIVERY SIGHT
If something obvious is going to get you caught, this is probably it. If
you decide to
send a 660 megger to your neighbor’s house and you’re the only
person within four miles with a
computer, you can basically kiss your ass
goodbye. If you’re going to card something that any
person might buy, like
some CD’s, and send it nearby, that _MIGHT_ work, put it’s still too
dangerous
to be seriously considered. Try to find a place that’s not to close to your
work, home, or school (at least 2 or 3 miles from all of these), and not in a
really busy
neighborhood. If you card something to a house along a major road,
you can count on lots of
people seeing you go pick up your new goodies. The
best place I’ve used was a house that had
just been built in a neighborhood
that was a decade or so old. I just stole the cheap little
for sale sign
and stashed it in the backyard, and was in business. You don’t have to steal
/> the sign the day you order your stuff either–wait until the day you know it
will be there.
If it’s a house for sale, don’t pick one with realtors running
in and out all hours of the day
and night either.
A good place to use, and one that can almost never be traced, is the
address of the card’s owner. I know this may sound sacrilegious, sending the
stolen
goods to the victim’s house, but it actually works quite well. When you
get a card, look up
the person’s address in the phone book (call them and BS if
you’re not sure it’s them). A
library will have all the phone books for the
surrounding communities if you can’t find it in
yours at home (I usually only
find one out of ten in my own book, but odds are alot better at
a library).
The best times of the year to do this is Christmas and the summer — both times
/> when people tend to leave home for a while. Just watch the house a little or
give it a call
once in a while and you’ll soon get one that’s a sure bet.
Unfortunately, there are several
major drawbacks to this. There are almost
always bitchy neighbors or relatives watching these
houses, so you’ve got to
get the package before they do. If the people go on vacation, they
most likely
won’t be gone for 6-8 weeks, so you can only order from places who ship out
quickly (you should really only order overnight or 2nd day anyway).
III.
ORDERING YOUR NEW STUFF
Ordering the products is another of the easier steps in the
process if
you can remember a few simple things. The first is STAY CALM AT ALL TIMES!!
If someone says, "I’m sorry sir that card has been cancelled" or "is over
its
limit" don’t flip out and say "Uh… thanks - bye". Stay calm and just
make up
something that doesn’t sound suspicious. Don’t say something that
will make the person on the
other end of the line want to check up on the
card more (although as a general rule phone
operators are lazy and don’t give
a flying fuck, but it’s still good not to give yourself away
to them). When
you are ordering ask all the important questions you would ask if you were
/> ordering it with your own card. Ask about shipping rates — when picking the
mailing class
or shipping carrier, try to get something that will arrive at
a pretty set time. Second day
air usually works pretty well, and if you can
make it sound like you really want or need the
product soon, they won’t even
think about it. If you’re buying something that has to be
assembled and could
take anywhere from 2 to 10 days, just get the shit class UPS, since you
won’t
be able to the anticipate delivery date very well anyway. It is not generally
recommended that you mail your order in, because that usually makes the arrival
date a
question, and you don’t want that. Faxing orders works well, but be
careful to have your own
number, or any you could be traced to, taken off the
machine, because when some fax’s connect,
they send their own # (as programmed
into the machine) to the other end, and sometimes a name
too. It’s best to
just clear it and not to fake something, then the company won’t have any
leads
or false info to make them think.
IV. THE PICK UP
/> When you go to pick up the package, it’s best to go at night. If you can
get it mailed to a
fake business it works well too — let me explain. If your
friend with the card is Steve
Wozniak, just send it to Steve Wozniak care of
Wozniak’s Financial Services or something like
that. This way, when you leave
a note saying "UPS - Please Put All Packages For Wozniak’s
Financial Services
In The Back Of The House. Thank You." it will sound good. If you opt
not to
fake a business, just leave a note saying you work during the days or whatever
you can think of that will convince the guy to drop the package there and not
just leave a
little post-it note or give it to the neighbor. When you go to
pick it up, if there’s a
neighbor or someone standing around, don’t be a fool
and grab it and run or something stupid
like that. It will still be there
later and they probably won’t be.
V. A FEW AFTER NOTES
Well, now that you know how to get all the neat things you need
and want,
just remember the way most people get caught is by doing something stupid.
Don’t use the same drop spot or card number more than once. If you card a
thousand dollar Dual
Standard, you can bet your ass someone is going to look
into it, and will find out where it
was sent to. Never, ever use any info
that it even close to your own. Dont give your name or
number or birthday or
whatever, because even if it doesn’t get you caught, if you are caught
for
another reason, it’ll be evidence to stack up against you. Rememeber to act
smart
and you’ll be fine. Have a great time with all your new toys.
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

Add A Comment