Counterfeiting Money

A very good document on how to counterfeit money using photo offset printing techniques


Counterfeiting Money

Before reading this article, it would be a very good idea to get a
book on photo offset
printing, for this is the method used in
counterfeiting US currency. If you are familiar with
this method
of printing, counterfeiting should be a simple task for you.

Genuine
currency is made by a process called "gravure", which
involves etching a metal
block. Since etching a metal block is
impossible to do by hand, photo offset printing comes
into the
process.

Photo offset printing starts by making negatives of the
currency
with a camera, and putting the negatives on a piece of masking
material
(usually orange in color). The stripped negatives,
commonly called "flats", are
then exposed to a lithographic plate
with an arc light plate maker. The burned plates are then

developed with the proper developing chemical. One at a time,
these plates are wrapped
around the plate cylinder of the press.

The press to use should be an 11 by 14 offset,
such as the AB Dick
360. Make 2 negatives of the portrait side of the bill, and 1 of

the back side. After developing them and letting them dry, take
them to a light table. Using
opaque on one of the portrait sides,
touch out all the green, which is the seal and the
serial numbers.
The back side does not require any retouching, because it is all
one
color. Now, make sure all of the negatives are registered
(lined up correctly) on the flats.
By the way, every time you
need another serial number, shoot 1 negative of the portrait
side,
cut out the serial number, and remove the old serial number from
the flat
replacing it with the new one.

Now you have all 3 flats, and each represents a
different color:
black, and 2 shades of green (the two shades of green are created
by
mixing inks). Now you are ready to burn the plates. Take a
lithographic plate and etch three
marks on it. These marks must
be 2 and 9/16 inches apart, starting on one of the short edges.

Do the same thing to 2 more plates. Then, take 1 of the flats and
place it on the
plate, exactly lining the short edge up with the
edge of the plate. Burn it, move it up to
the next mark, and
cover up the exposed area you have already burned. Burn that, and

do the same thing 2 more times, moving the flat up one more mark.
Do the same process with
the other 2 flats (each on a separate
plate). Develop all three plates. You should now have 4
images
on each plate with an equal space between each bill.

The paper you will
need will not match exactly, but it will do for
most situations. The paper to use should have
a 25% rag content.
By the way, Disaperf computer paper (invisible perforation) does
the
job well. Take the paper and load it into the press. Be sure
to set the air, buckle, and
paper thickness right. Start with the
black plate (the plate without the serial numbers).
Wrap it
around the cylinder and load black ink in. Make sure you run more
than you
need because there will be a lot of rejects. Then, while
that is printing, mix the inks for
the serial numbers and the back
side. You will need to add some white and maybe yellow to the

serial number ink. You also need to add black to the back side.
Experiment until you
get it right. Now, clean the press and print
the other side. You will now have a bill with no
green seal or
serial numbers. Print a few with one serial number, make another
and
repeat. Keep doing this until you have as many different
numbers as you want. Then cut the
bills to the exact size with a
paper cutter. You should have printed a large amount of money
by
now, but there is still one problem; the paper is pure white. To
dye it, mix the
following in a pan: 2 cups of hot water, 4 tea
bags, and about 16 to 20 drops of green food
coloring (experiment
with this). Dip one of the bills in and compare it to a genuine

US bill. Make the necessary adjustments, and dye all the bills.
Also, it is a good idea to
make them look used. For example,
wrinkle them, rub coffee grinds on them, etc.

As before mentioned, unless you are familiar with photo offset
printing, most of the
information in this article will be fairly
hard to understand. Along with getting a book on
photo offset
printing, try to see the movie "To Live and Die in LA". It is

about a counterfeiter, and the producer does a pretty good job of
showing how to counterfeit.
A good book on the subject is "The
Poor Man’s James Bond".

If all of
this seems too complicated to you, there is one other
method available for counterfeiting:
The Canon color laser
copier. The Canon can replicate ANYTHING in vibrant color,

including US currency. But, once again, the main problem in
counterfeiting is the paper used.
So, experiment, and good luck!




  1. Dick Cheney Said,

    Dear People,

    Thank you for explaining to the Public, how easy it is to Counterfeit money, especially the US Dollar Bill……… however you are all too late. Our new line in US Currency, which can be ordered online, much like online shopping, and comes in various colours, after the new batch of white & green, and varied sizes for the ladies, is now readily available.

    Thank you for shopping with us, and we hope you willtake up the offer of our ” Frequent Shopper ” Package

Add A Comment

Counterfeiting Money by JRoger

Before reading this article, it would be a very good idea to get a
book on photo offset
printing, for this is the method used in
counterfeiting US currency. If you are familiar with
this method
of printing, counterfeiting should be a simple task for you.

Genuine
currency is made by a process called "gravure", which
involves etching a metal
block. Since etching a metal block is
impossible to do by hand, photo offset printing comes
into the
process.

Photo offset printing starts by making negatives of the
currency
with a camera, and putting the negatives on a piece of masking
material
(usually orange in color). The stripped negatives,
commonly called "flats", are
then exposed to a lithographic plate
with an arc light plate maker. The burned plates are then

developed with the proper developing chemical. One at a time,
these plates are wrapped
around the plate cylinder of the press.

The press to use should be an 11 by 14 offset,
such as the AB Dick
360. Make 2 negatives of the portrait side of the bill, and 1 of

the back side. After developing them and letting them dry, take
them to a light table. Using
opaque on one of the portrait sides,
touch out all the green, which is the seal and the
serial numbers.
The back side does not require any retouching, because it is all
one
color. Now, make sure all of the negatives are registered
(lined up correctly) on the flats.
By the way, every time you
need another serial number, shoot 1 negative of the portrait
side,
cut out the serial number, and remove the old serial number from
the flat
replacing it with the new one.

Now you have all 3 flats, and each represents a
different color:
black, and 2 shades of green (the two shades of green are created
by
mixing inks). Now you are ready to burn the plates. Take a
lithographic plate and etch three
marks on it. These marks must
be 2 and 9/16 inches apart, starting on one of the short edges.

Do the same thing to 2 more plates. Then, take 1 of the flats and
place it on the
plate, exactly lining the short edge up with the
edge of the plate. Burn it, move it up to
the next mark, and
cover up the exposed area you have already burned. Burn that, and

do the same thing 2 more times, moving the flat up one more mark.
Do the same process with
the other 2 flats (each on a separate
plate). Develop all three plates. You should now have 4
images
on each plate with an equal space between each bill.

The paper you will
need will not match exactly, but it will do for
most situations. The paper to use should have
a 25% rag content.
By the way, Disaperf computer paper (invisible perforation) does
the
job well. Take the paper and load it into the press. Be sure
to set the air, buckle, and
paper thickness right. Start with the
black plate (the plate without the serial numbers).
Wrap it
around the cylinder and load black ink in. Make sure you run more
than you
need because there will be a lot of rejects. Then, while
that is printing, mix the inks for
the serial numbers and the back
side. You will need to add some white and maybe yellow to the

serial number ink. You also need to add black to the back side.
Experiment until you
get it right. Now, clean the press and print
the other side. You will now have a bill with no
green seal or
serial numbers. Print a few with one serial number, make another
and
repeat. Keep doing this until you have as many different
numbers as you want. Then cut the
bills to the exact size with a
paper cutter. You should have printed a large amount of money
by
now, but there is still one problem; the paper is pure white. To
dye it, mix the
following in a pan: 2 cups of hot water, 4 tea
bags, and about 16 to 20 drops of green food
coloring (experiment
with this). Dip one of the bills in and compare it to a genuine

US bill. Make the necessary adjustments, and dye all the bills.
Also, it is a good idea to
make them look used. For example,
wrinkle them, rub coffee grinds on them, etc.

As before mentioned, unless you are familiar with photo offset
printing, most of the
information in this article will be fairly
hard to understand. Along with getting a book on
photo offset
printing, try to see the movie "To Live and Die in LA". It is

about a counterfeiter, and the producer does a pretty good job of
showing how to counterfeit.
A good book on the subject is "The
Poor Man’s James Bond".

If all of
this seems too complicated to you, there is one other
method available for counterfeiting:
The Canon color laser
copier. The Canon can replicate ANYTHING in vibrant color,

including US currency. But, once again, the main problem in
counterfeiting is the paper used.
So, experiment, and good luck!

-= RFLAGG =-


Add A Comment