Bombs/Explosives/Experiments
Vinegar: 3-5% Acetic Acid
Sani-Flush: 75% Bisulfate
Tincture of Iodine: 47% Alcohol, 4%
Iodine
Rubbing Alcohol: 70% or 99% Isopropyl alcohol
[*-> Household
Substitutes <*-]
Chemical Name Household Substitute
Acacia Gum Arabic
Acetic
Acid Vinegar
Aluminum Oxide Alumia
Aluminum Potassium Sulfate Alum
Aluminum
Sulfate Alum
Ammonium Carbonate Hartshorn
Ammonium Hydroxide Ammonia Water
Ammonium Nitrate Saltpeter
Ammonium Oleate Bannana Oil
Barium Sulfide Black Ash
Carbon Carbonate Chalk
Calcium Hypochloride Bleaching Powder
Calcium Oxide Lime
Calcium Sulphate Plaster of Paris
Carbonic Acid Seltzer
Carbon Tetrachloride Cleaning
Fluid
Cetyltrimethylammonium Bromide Ammonium Salt
Citric Acid Citrus Fruits
Ethylene Dichloride Dutch Fluid
Ferric Oxide Iron Rust
Furfuraldehyde Bran Oil
Glucose Corn Syrup
Graphite Pencil Tip
Hydrochloric Acid Muriatic Acid
Hydrogen
Peroxide Peroxide
Lead Acetate Sugar of Lead
Lead Tetro-oxide Red Lead
Magnesium
Hydroxide Milk of Magnesia
Magnesium Silicate Talc
Magnesium Sulfate Epsom Salts
Methyl Salicylate Wintergreen Oil
Napthalene Mothballs
Phenol Carbolic Acid
Potassium Bicarbonate Cream of Tartar
Potassium Bitartrate Saltpeter
Potassium Chromium
Sulfate Chrome Alum
Potassium Nitrate Saltpeter
Silicon Dioxide Sand
Sodium
Bicarbonate Baking Soda
Sodium Borate Borax
Sodium Carbonate Washing Soda
Sodium
Chloride Salt
Sodium Dioxide Sand
Sodium Hydroxide Lye
Sodium Hydroxide Drain
Cleaner
Sodium Silicate Water glass
Sodium Sulfate Grauber’s Salt
Sodium
Thiosulfate Photographers hypo
Sulfuric Acid Battery Acid
Sucrose Cane Sugar
Zinc
Chloride Tinner’s Fluid
Zinc Sulfate White Vitriol
[ ] * Generating Chlorine Gas
*
Get a large bottle and put AJAX in the bottom. Then pour some Ammonia
down into the
bottle. Since the gas is heavier than air, it will stay down
in there unless you use large
amounts of AJAX or Ammonia.
[ ] * Chlorine + Turpentine *
Take a small cloth or
rag and soak it in Turpentine. Quickly drop it
into the bottle of Chlorine. It should give off
alot of black smoke and
probably start burning…
[ ] * Chlorine Fuse Bomb *
-1 Large explosive (M-80 or above)
-1 Large cylindrical cardboard
container such as kool-aid drink mix
-1 Roll of black electrical tape
Fill the container
half-way with comet cleanser. Then nestle the explosive
on the cleanser. Pour more cleanser
until container is filled, leave
explosive’s wick sticking out above the comet, stick fuse
through plastic top
to the container tightly. To ignite this bomb just light the fuse and
move
quickly. The bomb will explode and fill the air with poison gas.
[ ] *
Chlorine Gas *
Materials:
-1 Two liter bottle
-1 Measuring cup
-1 Bottle of
chlorox bleach
-1 Bottle of Ammonia
Pour 1/2 a cup of chlorox into the bottle. Pour 1/2
cup of Ammonia into the
bottle. Quickly screw on the cap to the bottle and throw the bottle
far
away. The cap will blow off releasing a deadly cloud of fumes.
[ ] * Chloride
of Azode *
A good example of how ammonium nitrate can be chemically mixed with other
materials,
is in the preparation of chloride of azode.
1. A quantity of chlorine gas is collected
in a small glass beaker, and placed
upside down on another glass beaker containing a water
solution of
ammonium nitrate.
2. Now the solution of ammonium nitrate is heated gently.
While it is being
heated, the surface of the solution will become oily, and finally
small droplets will form and sink to the bottom of the beaker.
3. After this process is
finished, remove the heat and drain off excess
ammonium nitrate solution. The droplets that
remain at the bottom of
the beaker are chloride of azode of nitrochloride. Nitrochloride
explodes violently when brought into contact with an open flame, or
when exposed to
temperatures above 212 degrees F.
There are hundreds and hundreds of formulas for the
use of ammonium nitrate,
in different explosive compounds. For further information, a
chemistry manual
or handbook of explosives can be useful.
[ ] * Hydrogen +
Chlorine *
Take the test tube of Hydrogen and cover the mouth with your thumb. Keep
it
inverted, and bring it near the bottle of Chlorine (Not one that has
reacted with Turpentine)
Say "Goodbye test tube", and drop it into the
bottle. the Hydrogen and Chlorine
should react and possibly explode
(Depending on purity and amount of each gas) an interesting
thing about this
is they will not react if it is dark and no heat or energy is around, but
[ ] *
Generating Hydrogen Gas *
To generate Hydrogen, all you need is an acid and a metal that will
react
with that acid, try Vinegar (Acetic Acid) with Zinc, Aluminum, Magnesium,
Etc. You
can now collect Hydrogen in something, if you note Hydrogen is
lighter than air. Light a small
amount and it burns with a small *POP*
Another way of creating Hydrogen is by an
electrolysis of water, this
involves separating water (H2O) into Hydrogen and Oxygen by an
electric
current. To do this you need a 6-12 Volt battery, two test tubes, a large
bowl,
two carbon electrodes (Take them out of any unworking 6-12 Volt
battery), and table salt.
Dissolve the salt in a large bowl of water.
submerge the two test tubes in the water and put
the electrodes inside them,
with the mouth of the tube aiming down. Connect the battery to
some wire
going down to the electrodes. This will work for awhile, but Chlorine will
be
generated along with oxygen which will undoubtedly corrode your copper
wires leading to the
Carbon electrodes. (The table salt is broken up into
Chlorine and Sodium ions, the Chlorine
comes off as a gas with oxygen while
Sodium reacts with water to form Sodium Hydroxide…)
Therefore, if you can
get your hands on some Sulfuric Acid, use it instead. It will not affect
the
water conduct electricity.
[ ] * Creating Oxygen *
Get Hydrogen
Peroxide and Magnesium Dioxide (It’s a black powder found in
batteries) mix the two in a
bottle, and possibly some vaseline. The two will
react and give off oxygen. If the bottle is
stoppered, pressure will build
up and shoot it off, if stoppered too tight notice it will
explode.
[ ] * Iodine *
Tincture of Iodine contains mostly Alcohol and a little
Iodine. To separate
them, put the tincture of Iodine in a metal lid from a bottle and heat
it
over a candle. Have a stand holding another metal lid directly over the
tincture
(about 4-6 inches above it) with ice in top of it. the Alcohol
should evaporate, and the
Iodine should sublime, but should form Iodine
crystals on the cold metal lid above. If this
works, you can use the iodine
along with household ammonia to form Nitrogen Triiodine.
[ ] *How To Make Nitrogen Tri-Iodide*
Probably the most hazardous explosive
compound of all is nitrogen
tri-iodide. Strangely enough, it is very popular with high school
chemsits,
who do not have the vaguest idea of what they are doing. The reason for its
popularity may be the ready availability of the ingredients, but it is so
sensitive to
friction that a fly landing on it, has been known to detonate it.
The recipe has only been
included as a warning and a curiosity. It should not
be used.
[1> Add a small
amount of solid iodine crystals to about 20 cc. of
concentrated ammonium hydroxide. This
operation must be performed
very slowly, until a brownish-red precipitate is formed.
[2> Now it is filtered through filter paper, and then washed first with
alcohol and
secondly with ether.
Tri-idodide must remain wet, since when it dries it becomes
super
sensitive to friction, and a slight touch can set it off.
[*Nitrogen
Triiodide*]
Nitrogen Triiodide is a very powerful and very shock sensitive explosive.
Never store it and be carful when you’re around it- Sound, Air movements, and
other tiny
things could set it off.
MATERIALS-
2-3G Iodine
15ML concentrated
Ammonia
8 sheets filter paper
50ml beaker
Feather mounted on a two meter pole
Tape
Spatula
Stirring Rod
Add 2-3g Iodine to 15ml
Ammonia in the 50ml beaker. Stir, let stand for 5
minutes. Do the following within 5
minutes!
Retain the solid, decant the liquid (Pour off the liquid but keep the brown
solid…). Scrape the brown residue of Nitrogen Triiodide onto a stack of four
sheets of
filter paper. Divide solid into four parts, putting each on a seperate
sheet of dry filter
paper. Tape in position, leave to dry undisturbed for at
least 30 minutes (Preferrably
longer). To detonate, touch with feather.
(Wear ear plugs when detonating or cover ears- it is
very loud!)
[*Nitrogen Triiodide #2]
Five grams iodine
three grams
potassium iodide
20 ml. concentrated ammonium hydroxide
filter paper & funnel.
Stir the potassium iodide and iodine together in a beaker with 50 ml. of water.
Add the
ammonium hydroxide with stirring until no more precipitate forms. Filter
and spread a thin
layer of the wet solid on several filter papers. Break the
filter papers into many small
pieces and allow to dry for several hours. On
drying, the paper is extremely sensitive to
touch and will explode violently
with the slightest disturbance. Can be handled safely when
wet. Do not let any
sizeable quantity of the dry material accumulate. — I was able to buy
[ ] * Gun Powder *
-3 Cups granulated potassium nitrate
-2 Cups powdered charcoal
-1/2
Cup sulfur
-3 Pints Rubbing Alcohol
-3 Cups Water
1. Place the alcohol in a 2
Gallon bucket
2. Place Potassium Nitrate, Charcoal, and Sulfur in a heat resistant 2
gallon bucket. Add 1 cup of water and mix very thoroughly until all
of the ingredients are
dissolved.
3. Add two more cups of water then place the bucket over an open fire
and
stir until you see small bubbles forming.
4. Remove the bucket from the fire and pour it’s
contents into the
alcohol bucket.
5. Let the mixture set for about 5 minutes. Strain the
liquid through a
thick cloth, then squeeze in such a way that the powder left on it is
formed into a good sized clump.
6. Place some screening over a dry bucket, and rub the clump
of powder
over it.
7. Pour the powder from the bucket over some sun-stricken cement to
dry
Remove from sun as soon as dry. You now have some gun powder to do
with what you
please…
[*Gun Powder II (Easy Version)*
85% Potassium Nitrate 65% Potassium
Chlorate
12% Charcoal 22% Charcoal
32% Sulfur 13% Sulfur
Potassium Chlorate
is the same thing as Sodium Chlorate or Salt Peter
Mix dry, add water to make past, let dry,
then crush to grain. Do not use
metal object when crushing.
[ ] * Fertilizer
Explosive *
Materials:
-Fertilizer with containing no less than 32% total Nitrogen
-16 Ounce bottle
1. Crush the fertilizer into a
flour like substance
2. Mix 32 parts fertilizer to 1 part oil/gas mixture while stirring
vigorously
3. Spoon mixture into 16 Ounce bottle
4. Insert blasting cap, just below the
surface of the fertilizer
explosive, ignite when ready.
[ ] * Fertilizer
Explosive # 2 *
Materials:
-Fertilizer with no less than 32% Nitrogen
1. Grind
the fertilizer into a flour like substance
2. Mix 4 parts fertilizer to 1 part bronzing
powder
3. Store in air-tight container until ready to use
4. When ready to use, go to
step 4 of Fertilizer Explosive #1
[ ] * Sodium Chlorate/Sugar Explosive *
Materials:
-Sodium Chlorate
-Granual sugar
-Steel pipe threaded at one end and one
end cap
1. Mix 3 parts sodium chlorate to 2 parts sugar
2. Screw on the end cap onto one
of the threaded ends
3. Pour the mixture into the pipe
4. Insert a blasting cap just
below the surface of the mixture
[ ] * Picric Acid *
Materials:
-Asprin
tablets
-95% pure alcohol
-Sulfuric Acid (from car battery; boil until white fumes
appear)
-Potassium Nitrate (Part II)
1. Crush 20 asprin in a glass container then add 1
teaspoon water and mix
into a paste while stirring
2. Add about 1/3 to 1/2 cup of
Alcohol to the asprin paste while stirring
3. Tape a paper towel over a glass container and
pour the solution over it.
Pitch the residue left on the paper towel.
4. Pour the
filtered solution into a glass or ceramic dish
5. Heat a pan of water 160-180 degrees. Place
the dish into the
Alcohol/Water solution evaporates leaving behind white powder
6. Pour
1/3 cup of Sulfuric Acid into a jar then add the white powder
7. Place the jar into a pan of
simmering water for about 15 minutes then
remove the jar from the pan. The solution should
turn yellow-orange in
color
8. Add 3 teaspoons of Potassium Nitrate to solution while
stirring
vigorously. The solution will turn red then back to yellow-orange
9. Allow the
solution to cool to room temperature while stirring
occasionally
10. Pour the solution
into a glass containing 1 1/4 cup of water while
stirring vigorously
11. Filter the
solution through a paper towel into a glass container
12. Wash the yellow particles that
collect on the towel with 2 teaspoons of
water.
13. Place the particles in a glass or
ceramic dish and set in simmering water
for 2 hours
[ ] * How To Make Picric Acid
*
Method for the preparation of picric acid:
1. Phenol is melted and then mixed
with a concentrated solution of sulfuric
acid. The mixture is constantly stirred and kept at a
steady
temperature of 95 degrees C., for four to six hours, depending on the
quantities
of phenol used.
2. After this, the acid-phenol solution is diluted with distilled water,
and
an equal excess amount of nitric acid is added. The mixture of the
nitric acid will
cause an immediate reaction, which will produce heat,
so the addition of the acid must be
performed slowly, but more
importantly the temperature of the solution must NOT GO ABOVE 110
degrees C.
3. Ten or so minutes after the addition of the nitric acid, the picric
acid
will be fully formed, and you can draw off the excess acid. It should
be filtered
and washed in the same manner as above, until the litmus
paper tests show that there is little
or no acid present. When
washing, use only cold water. After this, the picric acid should
be
allowed to partially dry.
Picric acid is a more powerful explosive than TNT,
but it has disadvantages.
It is much more expensive to make, and is best handled in a wet 10%
distilled
water form, as picric acid becomes very unstable when completely dry. This
compound should never be put into direct contact with any metal, since
instantly on contact
there is a formation of metal picrate, which explodes
spontanteously upon formation.
Materials:
-.75 Grams of Mercury Fulminate
-Picric Acid
-Spent casing of at least .22 calibre (.45, .50, .38, etc…)
-12"
fuse with insulated wire
1. Strip about 1/4" of the insulation from the center of the
wire
2. Drill 2 holes in the casing
3. Thread the wire so that the non-insulated area is
inside the casing
4. Fill the casing with the Mercury Fulminate
5. When your done with
step 8, connect one end of the wire to the positive
lead of a battery (the higher the voltage
the better)
6. Connect one end of the second wire to the negative lead and the second
wire to a SPST or DPST or other 2-way switch (make sure the switch is in
the off position)
8. Flip the
switch whenever your ready to ignite the blasting cap.
[ ] * How to make Mercury
Fulminate for Blasting caps *
3.12 MERCURY FULMINATE
Mercury fulminate is
perhaps one of the oldest known initiating
compounds. It can be detonated by either heat or
shock, which would make it
of infinite value to a terrorist. Even the action of dropping a
crystal of
the fulminate causes it to explode. A person making this material would
probably use the following procedure:
Method # 1
1. Take 5 grams of pure mercury
and mix it with 35 milliliters of Nitric Acid.
2. The misture is slowly and gently heated as
soon as the solution bubbles
and turns green, one knows the silver mercury is dissolved.
3. After it is dissolved, the solution should be poured, slowly, into a
small container of
Ethyl Alcohol. This will result in red fumes.
4. After a half hour or so, the red fumes will
turn white, indicating that
the process is nearing its final stage.
5. After a few
minutes, add distilled water to the solution
6. The entire solution is now filtered, in order
to obtain the small white
crystals. These crystals are pure mercury fulminate, but should
be
washed many time, and tested with litmus paper for any remaining acid.
Method
# 2
1. Mix one part Mercuric Oxide with ten parts Ammonia solution. When ratios
are
reached they are always according to weight rather than volume
2. After waiting eight to ten
days, one will see that the Mercuric Oxide has
reacted with the Ammonia solution to produce
the white fulminate crystals
3. These crystals must be washed several times and tested with
litmus paper
for any remaining acid
[ ] *Cheap Electrical Igniters
Materials:
pack of 100 silicon diodes (available at any electronic store; you know you
got the right ones if they are very,very small glass objects.)
pack of matches
1
candle
Procedure:
1. light the candle and allow a large pool of molten wax to
form in the top.
2. take a single match and hold the glass part of a single diode against
the
head….bend the wires around the head so that one wraps in an upward direction
and
then sticks out to the side…do the same with the other wire, but in a
downward direction.
The diode should now be hugging the match head, but its
wires MUST NOT TOUCH EACH OTHER!!!!
3. dip the match head in wax to give it a water-proof coat (work under water)
4. repeat
steps 1 - 3 to make as many as you want
How to use:
When these little dudes are
hooked across a 6vDC battery, the diode reaches
what is called break-down voltage. When most
electrical components reach this
voltage, they usually produce great ammounts of heat and
light, while quickly
melting into a little blob. This heat is enough to ingite a match head.
These
are recomended for use under water, where most other ingniters refuse to
work.
Enjoy!
[ ] * Land Mine *
Materials:
-1 M-80 or other explosive
-1 9 Volt battery
-1 Solar igniter
-1 Pressure plate switch
1.
Connect the wire from battery to switch to solar igniter to battery
2. Replace fuse on M-80
with solar ignitor
3. Hide device under a light coat of dirt
4. Place switch in the path
when switch is pressured the bomb will go off
[ ] * Detonators *
The most
common time-delay device is an ordinary safety fuse. These
fuses usually consist of a
black-powder core surrounded with a fabric and
then a layer of waterproof material. Although
there are many different types,
it can generally be said that safety fuses burn between 30
and 45 seconds
per foot; however, check these figures when you make your purchase. Fuses
can be bought from any mail-order pryotechnics company. Two with whom I have
dealt are:
Ecco Products
Box 189
Northvale, New Jersey 07647
Westech
Corporation
P.O. Box 8193
Salt Lake City, Utah 84108
Double-coated
waterproof fuse usually sells for 20 to 25 dollars for
a thousand to fifteen hundred feet. I
would advise purchasing this equipment,
since homemade fuses are not to be trusted.
Bombs can be detonated in many ways. The detonation and use of
certain devices are based
mainly on the cleverness and imagination of the
saboteur. I will discuss several basic forms
of detonators, both nonelectric
and electric. However, there is an infinite number of
variations, which may be
better suited to individual situations.
The first type is
referred to either as a tension-release, or a
wiretrap device. It operates on the principle of
releasing the tension
caused by a wound spring, on the firing pin, and allowing it to strike
and
set off a nonelectrical blasting cap. The nonelectrical blasting cap will in
turn
generate the necessary heat to ignite the TNT or dynamite. This can be
implemented in many
ways. A common method in which the wire-trip device can
be employed is stretching a trip wire
six inches above the ground. Another
equally popular method of employing the tension-release
device is attaching
the taut wire to the back of a door, so that, when the door is opened,
the
tension is released, and the explosive ignites.
A device very similar to the last
one is the pull-trigger electric
detonator. It functions in the same manner, in that a safety
pin is removed
from the striker or firing pin, causing it to move forward and connect with
a
metal plate. This connection with the metal plate completes the electrical
circuit.
The batteries have been connected by wires to an electrical
blasting cap, a metal plate, and
finally to the firing pin. Although
professional supplies for this equipment are available at
reasonable prices,
the device can be constructed from household items. The construction of
this
device is as follows: two flashlight batteries are connected to each other,
and
then one wire is run from one end of the batteries to the electrical
blasting cap, the other
wire from the opposite end of the batteries to the
metal plate. A third wire is run from the
blasting cap to the firing pin.
This now completes the fully cocked device.
In the same
manner as the explosive is detonated, so is the common
military grenade. The principle of a
tension release is the same. After the
pin is pulled out of the military grenade, the spring
is free to react,
causing the primer to ignite the lead-spitter fuse, and it in turn will
ignite
the lead oxide and pentolite. The pentolite will release enough heat to
ignite
the TNT and cause fragmentation of the metal casing.
The next type of detonating device I am
going to discuss is called the
pressure-trigger device. It is based on the application of
pressure rather
than its release, as in the previous devices. This mechanism is primarily
forces one thin
metal plate against another thicker metal plate. The batteries
are connected, via the blasting
cap, to each of these metal plates. Therefore,
when they touch, the electrical circuit is
complete, and the explosive will
ignite.
This type of device has several important
advantages. First of all,
it can be constructed away from the area it will be used in. This
will cut
installation time down to seconds.
[ ] * Pressure Detonators *
The next type of detonating device I will discuss is called a
releas-of-pressure
mechanism. This device employs exactly the same principles
as the pressure-trigger device,
except in reverse. The movement of the
pressure plate, rather than down, is now up. This can
be used effectively when
a weight is placed on the pressure plate. Then when it is removed,
the
explosives will be ignited. To construct, use a heavy-duty spring beneath the
first
metal plate. Connect a wire from the blasting cap to the first metal
plate. The second wire is
then stretched from the bottom of battery "A", to
the second metal plate. The third
wire is run from the electrical blasting cap
to the top of battery "B". When this is
accomplished, the booby trap is fully
cocked. When the weight on the pressure plate is remove,
the spring will will
force the second metal plate against the first, thus completing the
electrical
circuit and exploding the device.
In a tension-release booby trap, when the
tension, resulting from a
wire pulling on a pliable metal strip, is released, the metal strip
will snap
back into another metal strip. Since the wires from the batteries and blasting
cap are connected to either metal strip, when they touch, the circuit will be
complete and it
will detonate the explosive charge. This type of detonator is
especially effective when
attached to drawers, doors, or any movable object.
[ ] * Mortars *
Materials:
-End cap for pipe
-Gun powder
-9 Volt lantern battery and wires
-1 Pound of small stones or other small
metal scrap (hex nuts)
-2, 20" X 20" rags
-Paper bag
-Light bulb
1. Screw the end cap on the pipe
2. Using a file, make a hole in the top of the light bulb
4. Solder two very long wires to the base
of the light bulb
5. Put the bulb in the sack with the wires hanging out. Fill the rest of
6. Put the sack into the back of the pipe. Make sure the wires
lead out of
the pipe
7. Wad up one of the rags and pack it into the pipe. Make sure the
wires
led out of the pipe.
8. Insert scrap, stones, shrapnel on top of the first rag
10. Use some form of electrical tape
[ ] * Pressure Plate Switch *
Materials:
-9
Volt Lantern battery
-Piece of wood size of the pressure plate you want
-Four small
pieces of wood approximately 1/4" thickness
-A piece of flexible conductive material
(sheet metal,cut coke can,etc.)
1. Nail the four extra pieces of wood to the corners of the
largest piece of
wood.
2. Connect one wire to the positive lead of the battery
3.
Nail the stripped end of the positive wire to the center of the large
piece of wood.
4.
Solder a second wire to the piece of metal
5. Dig a hole where you want the pressure plate.
Place the piece of wood
into the bottom of the hole. Set the metal on top of the four
supports.
Cover with a loose, thin layer of dirt, leaves, etc.
6. Attatch a third wire
to the negative battery lead
[ ] * Briefcase Bomb *
Materials:
-Briefcase
-Moustrap
-9 Volt battery
-Plastique
-Electrical blasting cap
2. Attatch a wire
to the positive lead of the battery and wrap it around the
lever
3. Attatch a second
wire to the negative lead to the battery to one end of
the wire of the blasting cap
4.
Attatch a second wire to the other end of the blasting cap wire
5. Put in a considerable
amount of plastique into the briefcase
6. Insert blasting caps
7. Tape down the battery
and mousetrap to the bottom of the case
8. Push back lever and tape the final loose wire
(leads to blasting cap) to
the mousetrap so that if the lever would be released. It would
complete
the circuit
9. Keeping the lever held back in it’s spring-loaded position,
close the
briefcase top and lock it
10. When it’s opened, the lever will spring shut,
completing the circuit to
the blasting cap, igniting the plastique and blowing them to
hell…
[ ] * Booby Traps *
[Road Trap]
This incorporates a
wire-trip action to complete the electrical circuit. It
is extremely simple to make, since all
the equipment can be gathered around
the house. The great advantage to this particular device
is that the
explosives are detonated when the vehicle is directly over it, so insuring
maximum destruction. To construct a road trap, begin by digging three holes
across a roadway.
Into two of the holes place the explosive charges, and into
the third place a regular car
battery. Connect the first wire from the
negative terminal of the battery via each of the
blasting caps, in each
charge, to a metal pin on one side of an ordinary clothespin. The
clothespin must be kept open by a small wooden wedge, which is attached to a
thin black wire
stretched across the roadway. When the semi-invisible wire is
pulled, the wodden wedge will
fall out of the clothespin, thus closing the
clothespin. When the clothespin is closed, the
two metal pins will connect
the electrical circuit, thus exploding the charges.
[Walk Trap]
This incorporates the same type of wire-trap action as described in the road
trap. The walk trap is not electrically operated, it relies on a percussion
detonator. When
the wire is pulled, it pulls the safety pin out of the heavy
firing pin. The heat created from
the detonator’s explosion will be
sufficient to set off the TNT. This type of booby trap is
especially effective
in dense undergrowth where the trip wire cannot be readily seen (see
figure).
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#[TREE]#
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!:!.;!.!.;!:;.! / ||
!:;[Tall Grass];! Wire->/ ||
!;::!;;.;!.;;!.;! / ||
!.;..!;..;.:!.;!! / ||
______________________!.!!;.!:..!..:!.!______/_____||_________________
—–[Board]—– /
|—-|heavy |—|—/ <-Safety Pin
| |firing| |
| \pin / |
| \/ |
| |
| |
|——####—–| <—[### = Detonator]
|///////////////|
|/////[TNT]/////|
|///////////////|
|_______________|
This is nothing more than a few sections of pipe filled with sticks
of
dynamite, sealed at the ends, and joined in the middle by couplings, thus
permitting
the torpedo to be of varying lengths. The cap at one end must have
a small hole drilled in it,
so that a fuse and blasting cap can be inserted.
It can be used very effectively to destroy
walls, barricades, and
steel or iron doors. These are also great weapons against cars, trucks,
and
even trains. If piping of this sort is not available, you can make a
substitute
torpedo by taking a stick of dynamite and wrapping it tightly with
electric tape and thin
copper wire. To be effectvie, it should have many
layers of each.
[Homemade Hand
Grenade]
This is constructed from an empty, clean, condensed-milk can, attached to a
wodden handle. It is then filled halfway with a layer of dynamite. In the
dynamite is placed a
nonelectric blasting cap, with a five to six second
fuse. The dynamite is then covered with
small pieces of iron, until the can is
full. Seal the top of the open end closed, leaving a
small hole for the fuse.
/
====|====
=.:.|.:.=
=:.:|.:.= <–[:.: =
Iron Scraps]
=.:.|:.:=
=—|—=
=///+///=
=///+///= <–[+ = Non-electric
Blasting Cap]
=///+///=
=///////=
=///////= <–[/// = Dynamite]
=========
|||
||| <– Wooden Handle
|||
|||
[Anti-Personnel
Grenade]
This is constructed by taking a piece of pipe and closing it at one end,
either
by soldering or by screwing a cap on it. The pipe is packed tightly
with dynamite, and sealed
at the other end, leaving a small hole for the
detonator, which is made in the following
manner. A piece of one-eighth-inch
tubing is fastened to the end of a piece of fuse, which in
turn is attached
to a detonating cap. On the other end of the fuse, a bit of cotton,
saturated
with chlorate of potassium and common sugar, is placed, followed by another
piece of cotton and a little vial of sulferic acid. (This vial must be
hermetically sealed, to
prevent leakage). Finally, a piece of wood or iron,
which can be easily moved, is packed in
the remaining empty space. The piece
of wood is placed there, so that when the pipe is moved
the piece of iron or
wood will fall against the vial of sulfuric acid and break it. Once
the
sulfuric acid contacts the potassium chlorate, the chemical reaction will
cause a
very hot flame, which will ignite the fuse and cause the explosion. If
this type of device is
placed in a roadway, or directly in the path of the
enemy army, there is a good change it will
be set off - either by a kick or
by curiosity.
[Book Trap]
To construct
this, you will need a large book, perhaps a thousand pages. The
book should be hollowed out,
leaving the edges intact. In this hollow place,
put a dry cell battery and your explosive, and
connect the wires. Fix two
metal contact points to the edges of the book, and separate them
with a
wooden wedge, which is attached to the rear wall of the bookcase. This must
be
accomplished in such a manner that, when the book is removed from the
shelf, the metal contact
points will touch and complete the electrical
circuit, thus causing the detonation of the
explosive charge.
[ ] BOOK BOMBS
Concealing a bomb can be extremely
difficult in a day and age where
perpetrators of violence run wild. Bags and briefcases are
often searched
by authorities whenever one enters a place where an individual might intend
called a book
bomb; an explosive device that is entirely contained inside of
a book. Usually, a relatively
large book is required, and the book must be of
the hardback variety to hide any protrusions
of a bomb. Dictionaries, law
books, large textbooks, and other such books work well. When an
individual
makes a bookbomb, he/she must choose a type of book that is appropriate for
the place where the book bomb will be placed. The actual construction of a
book bomb can be
done by anyone who possesses an electric drill and a coping
saw. First, all of the pages of
the book must be glued together. By pouring
an entire container of water-soluble glue into a
large bucket, and filling
the bucket with boiling water, a glue-water solution can be made
that will
hold all of the book’s pages together tightly. After the glue-water solution
has cooled to a bearable temperature, and the solution has been stirred well,
the pages of the
book must be immersed in the glue-water solution, and each
page must be thoroughly soaked. It
is extremely important that the covers of
the book do not get stuck to the pages of the book
while the pages are drying.
Suspending the book by both covers and clamping the pages together
in a vice
works best. When the pages dry, after about three days to a week, a hole must
be drilled into the now rigid pages, and they should drill out much like wood.
Then, by
inserting the coping saw blade through the pages and sawing out a
rectangle from the middle of
the book, the individual will be left with a shell
of the book’s pages. The pages, when
drilled out, should look like this:
________________________
|
____________________ |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
|
| | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
|
|__________________| |
|______________________|
(book covers omitted)
This rectangle must be securely glued to the back cover of the book.
After building
his/her bomb, which usually is of the timer or radio controlled
variety, the bomber places it
inside the book. The bomb itself, and whatever
timer or detonator is used, should be packed in
foam to prevent it from rolling
or shifting about. Finally, after the timer is set, or the
radio control has
been turned on, the front cover is glued closed, and the bomb is taken to
its
destination.
[Loose Floorboard Trap]
This one utilizes the same
principles as the Book Trap, in that is relies on
two metal contact points touching to
complete the electrical circuit. Beneath
the loose floorboard are two strips of pliable metal
of bamboo, each with a
metal contact point, which will touch when pressure is brought down on
the
loose floorboard.
[Gate Trap]
This is an extremely simple, effective,
and relatively safe booby trap. To
cock the booby trap, pull the pin on a regular tension
release grenade, and
place beneath a swining gate, or anywhere that will supply the
pressure
necessary. When the gate is moved (either opened or closed), the pressure
will
be released and the grenade detonated.
[Chimney Trap]
Take three or four sticks
of dynamite and tape them together. Attach a
nonelectrical blasting cap, with a three or four
foot fuse. Now tape the
dynamite about five feet up on the inside of the chimney, leaving the
fuse
hanging loose downward. The end of the fuse should be about a foot or so up
the
chimney so that it is out of sight. When a fire is lit, the heat
generated will ignite the
fuse, and it will explode the charge, further up the
chimney. This works extremely well, since
most of the tamping is supplied by
the very structure of the chimney.
[Car
Trap]
It has many advantages, the most important being that you do not have to carry
your own power supply, but rather use the ignition system of the car itself.
Wires are run
from the electrical blasting cap to points along the electrical
ignititon system, and attached
with alligator clips. When the key it turned,
it will complete the ignition system, and thus
explode the bomb. A good place
to hide explosives is in the hollow cavity behind the
dashboard, since then
the full force of the explosion will be directed at the individuals in
the
front seat.
[Pipe Trap]
There are basically two methods of
booby-trapping a pipe. The first is very
similar to the chimney trap, except the intent is to
blow off the smoker’s
head. A small amount of tetryl or lead azide is placed in the mouthpiece
of
the pipe, and a fuse is attached, which leads through the rest of the pipe to
a point
about one-quarter-inch beneath the bowl. When the smoker lights the
pipe, the fuse will be
lit, and burn down untouched, until it detonates the
explosives in the mouthpiece, and blows
the smoker’s head off.
The second method is a little more complex but just as effective. A
activated firing
pin is placed in the stem of the pipe. The smoker will
attempt to light the pipe and find he
cannot suck through it. Believing the
stem to be blocked with tar or nicotine, he will unscrew
the threaded joint.
The act of unscrewing will release the firing pin, and detonate the
explosives.
[Cacodyal]
Since it is not feasible to make napalm in your kitchen,
you will have to be
satisfied with cacodyal. This made by chemically extracting all the
oxygen
from alcohol, and then replacing it, under laboratory controls, with metal
arsenic. The formula for alcohol is C4 H5 O, whereas for cacodyal it is
C4 H5 AR. Now, this
new substance, cacodyal, possesses spontaneous
inflammability, the moment it is exposed to the
air. Therefore it can be put
into a bottle and used like a Molotov Cocktail. If it is thrown,
it will
explode on impact, but this is not its real advantage. When it explodes, a
dense
white smoke is given off. This is white arsenic, a deadly poin. One
inhalation will probably
cause death in a matter seconds.
[Molotov Cocktail]
This is an incendiary bomb,
which bursts into flame on breaking. A
quart bottle is filled with 2/3 gasoline and 1/3 oil. A
fuse is made of an
old gasoline-soaked rag, and then stuffed into the mouth of the bottle.
The
bottle is corked, and the fuse is lit. It is thrown and, when it breaks, it
will
burst into flame. The enemy will not be able to extinguish the fire with
water. These were
used with varying degree of success in the struggle
in Hungary. According to some reports they
can disable a tank.
[MOLOTOV COCKTAILS]
First used by Russians against
German tanks, the Molotov cocktail is now
exclusively used by terrorists worldwide. They are
extremely simple to make,
and can produce devastating results. By taking any highly flammable
material,
such as gasoline, diesel fuel, kerosene, ethyl or methyl alcohol, lighter fluid,
bottle, anyone
can make an effective firebomb. After putting the flammable
liquid in the bottle, simply put a
piece of cloth that is soaked in the liquid
in the top of the bottle so that it fits tightly.
Then, wrap some of the cloth
around the neck and tie it, but be sure to leave a few inches of
lose cloth to
light. Light the exposed cloth, and throw the bottle. If the burning cloth
does not go out, and if the bottle breaks on impact, the contents of the bottle
will spatter
over a large area near the site of impact, and burst into flame.
Flammable mixtures such as
kerosene and motor oil should be mixed with a more
volatile and flammable liquid, such as
gasoline, to insure ignition. A mixture
such as tar or grease and gasoline will stick to the
surface that it strikes,
and burn hotter, and be more difficult to extinguish. A mixture such
as this
must be shaken well before it is lit and thrown
[Whistle Trap & Other
Handy Devices]
A booby trap that has an effect similar to the one created by the
pipe trap, is the whistle booby trap. It is constructed by separating the
metal or plastic
sides into their natural halves. This can be accomplished by
steaming. Now, fill each half
one-fourth full of an extremely friction-
sensitive explosive. Before gluing the two halves
together, include a small
ball made of a rough sandpaper-like substance (glue some sand
together). When
the whistle is blown, the ball will bounce around inside the shell,
creating
enough friction heat to set off the explosive charge.
An interesting booby trap
can be constructed by using a bottle, full
of a highly sensitive liquid explosive, which will
detonate on the extraction
of the cork. The cork is designed with a friction element that
pulls through
a sensitive explosive. When this booby trap explodes, it does extensive
damage, due to the fragmentation of the glass.
An extremely simple device for setting a
time-delay fire is a book of
matches, with a lighted cigarette stuck in it. This is then left
upon
combustible material. The cigarette, as it burns down, will light the matches,
and
they in turn will generate the heat necessary to ignite the other larger
combustible
material.
Another incendiary time-delay device is constructed out of a candle,
friction
matches, and several rags soaked either in gasoline or kerosene. The
candle is placed upright
in the center of the bundle of matches. As the candle
burns down, it will ignite the matches,
and they will ignite the rags. One can
usually expect about a fifteen-minute delay with this
device.
[ ] * Trap Light Bulbs *
An automatic reaction to walking into a dark
room is to turn on the
light. This can be fatal, if a lightbulb bomb has been placed in the
overhead
light socket. A lightbulb bomb is surprisingly easy to make. It also comes
with
its own initiator and electric ignition system. On some lightbulbs, the
lightbulb glass can be
removed from the metal base by heating the base of a
lightbulb in a gas flame, such as that of
a blowtorch or gas stove. This must
be done carefully, since the inside of a lightbulb is a
vacuum. When the glue
gets hot enough, the glass bulb can be pulled off the metal base. On
other
bulbs, it is necessary to heat the glass directly with a blowtorch or
oxy-acetylene torch. When the bulb is red hot, a hole must be carefully poked
in the bulb,
remembering the vacuum state inside the bulb. In either case,
once the bulb and/or base has
cooled down to room temperature or lower, the
bulb can be filled with an explosive material,
such as black powder. If the
glass was removed from the metal base, it must be glued back on
to the base
with epoxy. If a hole was put in the bulb, a piece of duct tape is sufficient
socket has no
power by checking with a working lightbulb, all that need be
done is to screw the lightbulb
bomb into the socket. Such a device has been
used by terrorists or assassins with much
success, since nobody can search the
room for a bomb without first turning on the light.
Materials:
-1 Light Bulb
-1 Gallon of gasoline
-1 Tube of Epoxy glue
-Liquid Soap
1. Place hole in the light bulb (See Below)
*
—
[ ]
[ ]
*[ ]*
[ ]
[ ]
[ ]
[-----]
*-Mark where
hole may be placed
2. Carefully pour some gasoline through the hole filling half the
bulb
3. Carefully pour some liquid soap in to complete filling the bulb
4. Cover the
hole with Epoxy glue
5. Make sure the switch is off and screw light bulb in socket, when
the
switch is turned on. The bulb will explode sending sharp fragments of
glass all
over…
[ ] * Pipe Bomb (Easy Version) *
Materials:
-1 Threaded steel pipe
with caps on the ends
-1 Baby food or other small jar
-Some small rocks
-Some
Baking Soda
1. Fill glass jar with Vinegar
2. Fit glass jar into steel pipe
3. Cap
one end of pipe
4. Drop small rocks into pipe
5. Fill pipe with Baking Soda
6.
Screw the other cap on tightly and then weld it shut. This is usually
used as an impact
explosive, toss it on a hard surface, the contact will
break the jar, five to ten minutes
later, it will explode
[*Pipe Bomb*]
Buy a section of metal water pipe 1/2 by 6
inches long, threaded on both ends.
Buy two metal caps to fit. These are standard items in
hardware stores. Drill a
1/16th hole in the center of the pipe. This is easy with a good drill
bit.
Hanson is a good brand to use. Screw a metal cap tightly on one end. Fill the
(pipe
to within 1/2 inch of the top with black powder. Do not pack the powder.
Don’t even tap the
bottom of the pipe to make it settle. You want the powder
loose. For maximum explosive effect,
you need dry, fine powder sitting loose in
a very rigid container. Wipe off any powder that
has gotten onto the top or
threads of the pipe. Gently screw on the second cap. Hand tighten
only. Place a
small piece of tape over the hole and go to your test site. Remove the tape
and
insert a two inch piece of black match fuse or a firecracker fuse into the hole.
Place the bomb behind a large rock or tree. Using thread or string, lightly tie
a 2 inch piece
of sulfured wick to the end of the fuse. Avoid letting the wick
touch any objects. This might
cause it to go out. Light the wick and head for
cover in a direction that keeps the rock or
tree between you and the bomb at all
times. Get behind cover at least 50 yards away. You may
not expect such a large
explosion from such a small object. The pipe will be blown to pieces
which will
fly through (the air like bullets. An accident could seriously wound or kill
you. This is not a big firecracker. It is more like a hand grenade. The size of
the bomb can
be increased by using a larger pipe end caps. To make a big noise
without blowing up your
pipe, cap one end only. Drill a 1/16 hole at the top
of the threads at the capped end. Put in
about 3 to 4 rounded teaspoonsful of
powder. Pack about 2 inches of wadding on top of the
powder. Toilet paper or
kleenex is good for this. Pack it tight. Open up a safety pin and
stick it
into the hole. Work it around to loosen up the powder so a fuse can be inserted.
unless you
brace it securely against (something. The pipe can be reloaded and
used again. A fun trick is
to mount the pipe pointing upward. Drop a tin can
over the open end and light the fuse. The
can will be blown high into the air.
Campbell’s soup cans are great for this.
[ ]
* Nitro Explosive *
Materials:
-65% Nitric Acid
-20% Glycerine
-15%
Sulfuric Acid
1. Mix these into solution form. This should explode by heat, impact or
fuse.
[ ] * Nitro Compound II *
Petroleum jelly and Potassium Chlorate in a 1:1
ratio by weight make a totally
safe when wet compound, but is highly explosive and shock
sensitive when dry.
[ ] * Formulas For Ammonium Nitrate Compounds *
[1>
Ammonium nitrate 60 [2> Ammonium nitrate 34
Potassium nitrate 29.5 Potassium nitrate 34
Charcoal powder 4 Ammonium chloride 15
Woodmeal 4
[4> Ammonium nitrate 70
[3> Ammonium nitrate 59 Ammonium sulfate 9
Woodmeal 10
Nitroglycerin 6
Nitroglycerin 10 Barium sulfate 7
Sodium chloride 20 Dextrin 8
Magnesium carbonate 1
[6> Ammonium nitrate 75
[5> Ammonium nitrate 88 Aluminum
powder 25
Charcoal powder 12
[8> Ammonium nitrate 64
[7> Ammonium nitrate 94
TNT 15
Potassium nitrate 2 Sodium chloride 21
Charcoal powder 4
[10> Ammonium
nitrate 35
[9> Ammonium nitrate 60 Potassium nitrate 33
Woodmeal 10 TNT 15
Nitroglycerin 10 Ammonium chloride 20
Sodium chloride 20
The formulas listed
above are for high explosives. They are not for
cherry bombs or Roman candles. The ingredients
that make up these formulas
have several functions: The first is the explosive agent itself,
the second is
the stabilizing agent, and third is a texturizer (paraffin). Below are listed
compound, and
a description of their purpose and function.
[Ammonium Nitrate]: An extremely unstable,
white explosive, usually in
crystalline form.
[Aluminum]: A silver metallic powder, when
in pyro grade, it is a major
ingredient in many ammonal explosive compounds.
[Ammonium
Oxalate]: A very valuable stabilizing agent, especially for nitro.
[Barium Nitrate]: Nitrated
barium, in white crystalline powdered form.
[Charcoal Powder]: A fine black powder, which is
extremely absorbent, and used
extensively in pyrotechnics.
[Guncotton]: Nitrated
cellulose (sawdust) is fairly stable, but usually used
with other ingredients rather than
alone. It is about 13-14% nitrogen.
[Naphthalene]: This is a sensitizing agent that is
normally in a white
crystalline form.
[Paraffin]: This is a primary ingredient in
plastique, and acts as a
texturizer.
[Potassium Nitrate]: An explosive compound in
itself, which is stable. It is
usually in a white crystalline form.
[Potassium
Perchloride]: A white powder used as an igniting agent in high
explosives. It is an extremely
common ingredient in low explosives.
[Resin]: A gummy substance, which is flammable, and used
in high explosives as
an igniting agent.
[Sodium Carbonate]: This white crystalline
powder acts to neutralize acid,
which may make the explosive more unstable than it normally
is.
[Sodium Chloride]: This is nothing more than ordinary table salt, and is used
as a
cooling agent in many high explosives.
[Sodium Nitrate]: A stable explosive compound which has
the advantage of
being water-absorbent.
[Sodium Sulfate]: A stabilizing powder, which is
water-resistant.
[Starch]: This can be either potato or corn starch, and acts as an
absorbent
in many explosive compounds.
[Sulfur]: A yellow crystalline powder, which
should be used in flour form
only.
[Vaseline]: A clear petroleum jelly used in a similar
manner as paraffin, as
a plasticizer, for many forms of exploding gelatins and plastic
explosives.
[ ] * Chlorox/Draino Bomb *
Materials:
-2 Jars with metal lids
(Baby food)
-1 Bottle chlorox bleach
-1 Bottle of liquid draino
-1 Roll of
electrical tape
Fill one of these jars with chlorox and the other with liquid draino. Screw
jars together
and to ignite this bomb just throw upon a hard surface. The
bottles will break and an
explosion will occur. The larger the bottles
(Jars) the larger the effect of the bomb.
[ ] * Soda Bomb/Poison Gas (2X Chlorine Gas Bomb) *
Materials:
-1 Box granulated
pool chlorine
-1 Bag of sugar
-1 Bucket of water
-1 Two-liter soda bottle or other
glass bottle
-1 Small glass jar with metal lid
Make a mixture of the following: 50%
Chlorine, 50% Sugar
Put it in the bottle. Then fill the glass jar with water and put it in
the
soda bottle. Throw this bomb at a hard surface, it’ll create a explosion
and very
harmful fumes.
[ ] * Incendiary Bomb *
First get a 16-Ounce returnable
bottle, a tube of caulking, and a considerable
amount of gun powder. Pour the calking into an
old pot and warm it over a nice
hot stove until it is plasma-like and gooey. Now, take an old
strip of cloth
about 10" long X 3/4" wide. Dip it in the caulking so that it is
completely
covered with the stuff. Place the strip in the bottle so as a little bit sticks
rest of the
bottle up with the caulking, let dry, light the cloth. When the gun
powder explodes, it will
spew out chards of glass and flaming strands of
caulking (similar to napalm)
Have you ever seen one of those really big changer machines in
airports, laudromats
or arcades that dispense change when you put in your 1 or 5 dollar
1. Find the type of change machine that you slide in your bill length wise,
not
the type where you put the bill in a tray then slide the tray in!!!
2. After finding the right
machine get a $1 or $5 bill. Start crumpling it
up into a ball. Then smooth out the bill, now
it should have a very
wrinkly surface.
3. Now the hard part. You must tear a notch in
the bill on the left side
about 1/2 inch below the little 1 dollar symbol (see figure)
4. If you have done all of this right then take the bill and go out to the
machine. Put the
bill in the machine and wait. What should happen is:
When you put your bill in, the machine
thinks everything is fine. Where
it gets to the part of the bill with the notch cut out, the
machine will
reject the bill and (if you have done it right) give you the change at
the
same time!!! So, you end up and get the bill back plus the change!!
It might take a little
practice, but once you get the hang of it, you can
become rich!!!
———————————–
! !
! (1) (1) !
! ——— !
! ! ‘ ‘ !
!
! ! — ! !
! (1) [] ——— (1) !
! !! -Washington- !
——[
]———————-
^^—–Make notch here. About 1/2 Down from (1)
or try
3.5 cm.
[ ] * Tennis Ball Bomb *
As we know, tennis is a popular sport around the
world. In tennis you use
these hollow green balls known as tennis balls. What people do not
know is that these
wonderful little balls can be used for other things. They can be used as a
handy little
explosive or noise maker.
You will need the following.
1. A tennis
ball (new if possible)
2. A knife
3. A box of matches (the type that will strike on
anything
4. Epoxy Glue and Strong tape
First you take a knife and cut a small round hole
on the tennis ball. Next
you will cut off the match heads of each match and drop them into the
hole until the
tennis ball is full of them. Make sure you do not drop the tennis
ball,
because it will not be too fun to stay in the hospital. Apply epoxy
glue to the hole, then
tape it up very well, so that it is air tight. Make
a few of these and one day when some geek
is walking down the street or when
you want to get a big bang or attention, throw the ball. It
is not to fun to
be where the ball lands. To make the explosion more powerful, you can use
[ ] * Pop Machine Fraud *
Here is a way to
rip off the coke machines you see out side of stores and
other places! ok first on all vending
machines there are always those rouund
almost unpickable locks when no one is looking take a
peice of air hardening
clayy (make sure it is only air hardening!) and press it into the lock
real
good! then remove the clay carefully and put it somewhere to dry! make sure the
clay is TOTALY dry then go back in a day or so and you will have a key to fit
that lock put
the key in and push and turn and presto the machine will open
allowing you to take all the
money! a good machine will get you between 2100 and
300 dollars depending when it was last
checked by the company. and best of all
if someone sees you just put the key on the ground and
step on it and its
powder! and then you cant be busted because the evidence is blown away!
[ ] * Car Destruction *
Take an empty tyenol bottle and fill it
with liquid draino. Make sure the lid is sealed
good, so it doesn’t leak out any liquid
draino. Then slip the
bottle into the persons gas tank. What happens is the draino eats
through
the bottle and hits the gas, a chemical reaction take place then Kaboom!!!
FLASH POWDER
Flash powder is a chemical
mixture that burns so fast that it appears to burn
instantly, producing a bright flash of
light.
Flash powder will produce an extremely loud explosion in amounts larger than
produce a
very loud explosion when contained, even in a container made of a few
layers of paper.
Flash powder is usually made from a very fine powdered metal that will burn and
an
oxidizer. Powdered aluminum is used the most because it is cheaper.
Powdered magnesium and
zinc will also work. The oxidizer can be Barium Nitrate,
Ammonium Perchlorate, Barium
Peroxide, Strontium Nitrate, Potassium Chlorate,
Potassium Perchlorate, Sodium Chlorate,
Potassium Permanganate, others, and any
combination of these. All the Chlorate are friction
and impact sensitive, and
also the Permanganate. Potassium Perchlorate is the least sensitive
of the
Chlorates.
All the chemicals should be crushed into a very fine powder,
about 400 Mesh
or smaller. 400 Mesh is about like kitchen type flour.
Black
German Aluminum is a brand name for aluminum powder. It has a partical
size of 600 Mesh for
98% of the aluminum material. The other 2% of the material
is larger than 600 Mesh. There are
other aluminum powders made by other
companies that are equal to or better than Black German
Aluminum.
Aluminum Pyro Powder is also a brand name. The partical size is (98%-400)
400 Mesh.
FLASH POWDER FORMULAS
1. This formula is one of the best. It produces
a very, very, extremely loud
explosion. Easy to ignite with a fuse. It is not moisture
absorbent.
Not very sensitive to impact or friction. Sodium Chlorate or Potassium Chlorate
to friction
and impact. 4 ounces of this mixture will produce an explosion
equal to one stick of
dynamite!
Potassium Perchlorate 2 oz.
Aluminum Powder 600 Mesh 1 oz.
2. This formula produces and extremely loud explosion, almost as good as
formula #1. This is
what most firecrackers, M-80’s and other fireworks are
made with.
Potassium
Perchlorate 2 oz.
Aluminum Powder 400 Mesh 1 oz.
3. This formula is equal to
formula #2 It is not sensitive to friction or impact
Barium Peroxide 9 oz.
50%/50% Magnesium aluminum
powder 200 Mesh 1 oz.
4. This formula works as good as
formula #2 but it produces a very bright flash.
This formula is what use to be used for the
photo flash for the old box type
cameras about 100 years ago
Barium Nitrate 3
oz.
Potassium Perchlorate 3 oz.
Aluminum Powder 400 Mesh 4 oz.
5. This
formula works very good. It is not very impact or friction Sensitive. It
produces a very, very
loud explosion. Potassium Perchlorate contains 46.1914%
oxygen. Half as powerful as #2.
Potassium Perchlorate 2 oz.
Sulfur 1 oz.
Aluminum Powder 400 Mesh 1 oz.
absorbent
and it is very impact and friction sensitive. Sodium Chlorate contains
45.0937% oxygen.
Produces a very, very loud explosion. Equal to #5.
Sodium Chlorate 2 oz.
Sulfur 1
oz.
Aluminum Powder 400 Mesh 1 oz.
7. This formula is very dangerous because it
is very sensitive to friction and
impact and could explode during the construction of any
explosive device.
Potassium Chlorate contains 39.1664% oxygen. This formula produces and
explosion
almost equal to #5 or #6. Used in the manufacture of toy cap pistol caps.
Sulfur 1 oz.
Aluminum Powder 1 oz.
8. This
formula is very, very very sensitive to impact, friction and static
electricity, even more
sensitive than #7. Extremely dangerous! Will ignite
even when wet.
Potassium
Chlorate 6.7 oz.
Red Phosphorus 2.7 oz.
Sulfur 0.3 oz.
Calcium Carbonate 0.3
oz.
9. This formula has slightly less explosive power than #7. It is slightly
friction and impact sensitive. Potassium Permanganate contains 40.4961% oxygen.
This formula
will ignite itself if it gets wet. Very loud explosion.
Potassium Permanganate 2 oz.
Aluminum Powder 1 oz.
10. This formula produces a very small
explosion when ignited in a paper tube.
A much louder explosion is produced when it is ignited
in a very strong
container. It is impact and friction sensitive.
Potassium
Chlorate 7.5 oz.
Charcoal dust 1.5 oz.
Sulfur 1.0 oz.
11. No information is
available about this formula.
Potassium Chlorate 6 oz.
Antimony Sulfide 3 oz.
12. This formula is a little louder than formula #10. Impact and
friction
sensitive. Produces a small explosion in a paper container.
Sodium
Chlorate 7.5 oz.
Charcoal dust 1.5 oz.
Sulfur 1.0 oz.
13. No information is
available about this formula.
Potassium Chlorate 7.5 oz.
Gallic acid 2.2 oz.
!CAUTION!
The mixture of any chlorate with
phosphorus or sulfur is extremely sensitive to
friction and percussion and explodes with great
violence.
Chlorate explosives must not be stored together with ammonium nitrate
explosives, since ammonium chlorate which is formed when these two substances
are brought in
contact, explodes.
When mixing chlorate explosives, crush all of the chemicals
separately. Sift
the oxidizer through a piece of screen wire to break up the material into
small
pieces. Then sift the other chemicals also if they need it.
Mix all of the
flash powder chemicals together and mix well by sifting them
through a piece of screen wire
or by shaking them in a ZIP LOCK bag. This
mixture is very sensitive to friction, impact,
heat, spark, static electricity
4 ounces of flash powder has the same explosive power as one
stick of dynamite.
One gross of M-80 firecrackers is equal to 3 sticks of dynamite.
contains 1/2
teaspoon of flash powder.
M-80’s with 1/4 teaspoon of flash powder produces an
explosion that sounds
almost exactly the same as M-80’s with 1/2 teaspoon of flash powder, but
it
has less destructive power.
24 ounces of flash powder will make 100 M-100 type
firecrackers. (And these are
awsome!)
Quick Conversions:
3 teaspons
= 1 tablespoon
4 tablespoons = 1/4 cup
1/4 cup = 2 oz.
M-80 &
M-100 CONSTRUCTION
————————-
1. PLUG ONE END OF THE PAPER
TUBE.
Run a small amount of Elmer’s glue around the side of an end plug or the inside
edge of the paper tube. Insert the end plug, convex side first, into the paper
tube. Push it
in until the back edge of the plug is flush with the edge of the
paper tube.
2.
FUSE THE PAPER TUBE.
Using a 1/8 inch drill bit, an ice pick or a sharp nail, punch a hole
through
one side of the paper tube in the middle. NEVER puncture a case that contains
flash powder. The paper tube should always be fused before the flash powder is
added. Cut the
fuse to 1 1/2 inches in length and insert it into the hole at
least halfway across the inside
diameter of the paper tube. Run a small amount
of Elmer’s glue around the fuse and let it
dry.
3. MIXING THE FLASH POWDER
Extreme caution should be used when mixing flash
powder. Flash powder is
extremely dangerous and explodes with great force. Avoid all sources
of
friction, impact, flame, sparks and static electricity.
4. FILL THE PAPER
TUBES
Stand the paper tubes on end, open end up. Using a small funnel and a measuring
spoon 1/2 teaspoon, fill the paper tubes 1/2 to 2/3 full. Do not fill the tubes
completely
full or pack in the flash powder. By leaving an air space there is
room for the flash powder
to expand when ignited which will produce a much
louder explosion.
5. INSERT THE
FINAL END PLUG
Plug the open end in the same way that you plugged the first end.
MATERIALS NEEDED FOR ONE M-80
1. One paper tube, 1/2 inch inside diameter, 1/16 inch
wall thickness,
1 1/2 inches long.
2. Two paper end plugs 1/2 inch outside
diameter, 1/16 inch paper thickness.
3. One 3/32 diameter water proof fuse about 1 1/2
inches long.
4. 1/2 teaspoon of flash powder.
5. 10 drops of Elmer’s
glue.
__ ___________ __
end | o | end
plug __| ___________ |__ plug
fuse ^ hole
|
______|_____
|M80 or M100 |
|____________|
MATERIALS NEED FOR ONE M-100
—————————-
1. One
paper tube, 5/8 inch inside diameter, 1 3/4 inch long
2. Two paper end plugs 5/8 inch
outside diameter.
3. One water proof fuse about 1 1/2 inches long.
4. 1
1/2 teaspoons of flash powder.
5. 10 drops of Elmer’s glue
CHEMICALS
———
Most of the chemicals you need are sold at K-mart, hardware stores, drug stores,
Sodium Chlorate. O2 solid oxygen pellets are used in small work shop torches.
Potassium
Nitrate. Sold by most drug stores in 4 ounce bottles. Also sold by
farmers co-op supply
stores.
Sulfur. Sold by farmers co-op, drug stores and lawn and garden centers.
Aluminum Powder. Sold by paint stores and auto parts stores. Aluminum powder
can be
found in radiator stop leak.
Sodium Nitrate. Sold by drug stores and meat packing
plants.
Antimony Sulfide. Is sold by most plumbing supply stores.
Potassium Permanganate. It is used for water treatment. Check your phone book
for water
treatment equipment and supplies.
Ammonium Nitrate. Can be bought from any farmers
co-op or lawn and garden
center.
Red Phosphorus. The white tip on wooden kitchen
matches contains red phosphorus
Check your phone book yellow pages for industrial
chemical supplies, they will
usually have most of these chemicals.
When you call,
tell them you are with a beginning rock band and want it for
some special effects on stage.
They will fall for that every time…
Now you probably wonder where you can get the
paper tubes and end caps. Ok
just write:
FULL AUTO CO. INC.
P.O. Box
1881
Murfreesboro, TN. 37133
And ask for a catalog. M-80 size tubes are 100-$5.
End plugs are 200-$3.5
M-100 size tubes are 100-$9. End plugs are 200-$5. You must have an
order
form to order this. They also sell all the chemicals you need to make
flash
powder. You must be over 21 or at least sign the order that says that
you are 21. There is no
way that they can find out. I DO NOT suggest that you
buy their water proof fuse because it
sucks! Go to a gun shop in your area and
ask for cannon fuse. It’s probably around 35 to 40
cents a foot and is water
proof and MUCH better quality. You do have to be 16 or 18 to buy
it.
[ ] *TWENTY WAYS TO DISRUPT SCHOOL ASSEMBLIES*
Basically
anti-social, anti-establishment? Hate school? Who doesn’t!
Here’s 20 things to screw up those
JOCK-O-RAMA pep rallies and various other
senseless assemblies in your fascist school…just
TRY to have fun..
1. When the cheerleaders start bouncing (literally) around trying to
get all
the wretched students to do their demonic, assinine chants (Beat ‘em up
beat
‘em up, rah rah rah! Snap those spinal cords, ha ha ha!" , you
should get everyone to
chant something like "The New Discipline Management
Plan SUCKS - The New Discipline
Management Plan SUCKS!" etc.
2. When the cheerleaders yell, "Are you
ready!??"–You yell reeeal loud,
"NO!"
3. After their cheers yell
stuff like, "Violence Rulez! Guns R cool!
And we’ve got guns, in our school!"
4. Yell cheerleader, twirlers, football players names when they are
introduced or just
simply to embarrass them…
5. Stand up and ask in a loud voice for one of the
cheerleaders to marry you.
6. Say in a loud voice, "I gotta go to the
bathroom!" then walk down in the
middle of the pep rally and leave.
If they try to
stop you, just start hoping up and down like you can’t hold
it…They’ll let ya go…when they
say, "ok, you can go!", run as fast as you can to a
remote bathroom(i.e.-home)
where they can’t follow you…
7. When a twirler drops her baton or a cheerleader
messes up, laugh as loud
as you can…i mean REALLY LAUGH HARD!
8. If like the
principle comes up behind you and sits, turn around and say,
"Ok, Mr. So-n-So, on the
count of three yell, Down with Mr. So-n-So
(his name in both places)
9. Get those
air horns and rig it up to where when someone sits down, it’ll
go off….everone will look
around dumbfounded to see who’s doing it…
They’ll never know…
10. Water
Balloons is a definate possibly, but i don’t suggest it…yesterday
at ours, i was playing
with this purple balloon like a beachball…ya
know, bouncing it between people and
‘accidently’ letting it get away from
you where hopefully someone will pop it…or you could
just pop a few
yourself
11. If you’re terribly brave or stupid you can stand up
and yell, "East
Lubbock/Wherever Rulez!" or "Beaners suck!"
12. The airhead cheerleaders ask you to yell, right? Yell at all times…
even when it’s
supposed to be semi-quiet…
13. Make a fire.
14. Spray the cheerleaders
pom-poms with that dog training stuff or fart spray
15. If you’re in the band, play the
music that you think is more suiting for a
pep rally…
16. Scream
anti-scholastic things during the school song
17. DO a complete reversal and dance to
the fight song…(this one is good if
you are sitting near the front or the middle)…just
stand up and dance
and sing the words if ya know ‘em!
18. (this one is unlikely
for some reason…) Write your name or the opposing
teams name on the gym/football field with
like kerosine and light’er up!
19. Get snap -n- pops and sit at the top and throw ‘em
at everone.(heh)
20. Lock ‘em up! That’s right! Get chains and lock all doors to the
gym…
..then ya got 2000 angry students with only 15 teachers..I dunno who would
want
out worse, the students or the teachers…heh.
(I tried alot of these for the
first pep rally of the season at my stupid
private school…I didn’t get to try the things
that required planning
(burning the school down, lock ups, air horn, ect) but I did do all of
the
yells and dancing and proposing marriage, chanting, singing, ect.)
Thanks to
myself for writing this file, and the corrupt administrators for
giving me something to write
about…
[ ] * How to have fun at school *
Your first day of school
you should bring the following items, to insure a
prosperous school year:
1)
Fountain pen (and extra ink refills)
2) 3 tubes of Super Glue (Krazy Glue)
3) Pennies
(about $1.00 worth)
4) Baloons (small sized for convieniance)
5) Mirror (small hand
held)
6) Liquid soap
7) Lighter, (matches as alternate)
Firecrackers
(ladyfingers are great)
9) Screwdrivers and other tools (small)
10) Small squeezable
bottles (like nasal de-congestant type)
11) Wire (10-20 ft)
12) Tape recorder mic.
(batter operated pref.)
13) Ziplock baggies
14) Half of an orange
15) Ligth bulb
(75 watts and over are great)
This will do for now… Some of the cool things to do
are, take the pennies
and glue them to the cafeteria tables, (and watch the custodians try to
get
‘em off). (this also looks good with silver dollars glued to the fire alarm
(so it
goes off when the custodian attempts to remove the coin) and to a door
someplace….
(principals preferably))
Another thing to do with a coin is, heat it up over a bunson
burner (in chem)
and just as the bell rings, toss the coin into the hall, I will guarantee
you
will know when the coin is picked up… While your using the bunson burner,
fill
your little squeeze bottle with gas, then cap it tight and put it in your
pocket… later,
take a firecracker, and glue it to the bottle, use a
cigarette as a fuse extension, then put
it in the bathroom, and get to class
fast… (gas and glue make a nice flame)…
While your in the bathroom, place a light bulb over the door, and when the
superintendant goes
to see what the explosion was, he gets a nice little
surprise…
Now for the
wire, if you can access a room near your locker, when no one is in
the room, take off the
speaker cover on the pa system, and hook 2 wires from
it, to your mic. ( then into your
locker) This is good for getting your
friends out of classes… Just ask for them… (use your
tools for that one,
and try to be neat about it)…
Now for your mirror, you can
use this for getting your, uh… "Friends" locker
combanation…. after you get
that, take that little baggie you got, and put
the orange in it… let it sit for a week or
four, then open the baggie, and
place it in your friends locker… I can guarentee he/she will
love it…
Another thing that is fun to do, is, Take a penny, and glue it over the
key
hole on your friends gym locker, just after he goes out, thus he has to truck
around
all day in his gym stuff, (unless you rent him your screwdriver to pry
the penny off)
Ballons are fun to play with in chem lab, fill them with the gas that you get
out of
the taps on the lab desks, then tie up the baloon tight, and drop it
out the window to the
burnouts below, you know, the ones that are always
smoking, they love to pop baloons with lit
cigaretts…. get the picture?
Good…
Those fountain pens are cool, because if
you make a slight jerking motion with
your hand, ink squirts all over the room, (or person,
what ever your aiming
at) It is a good idea not to let the teachers know you have one of
those, it
makes it too easy to find out who did it when theres ink all over the
principals face… (or on the floors, walls, and ceilings…)
Liquid soap is great for
use in crowded hallways, it turns everybody into a
ice skating star, (works especially well
when people come in from the rain)…
If your school is anything like the one I goto, people
never flush the
toiletts, A little liquid soap in here makes for a nice surprise, I mean,
what
happens when the soap is not flushed out of the toilett, and the suds are’nt
flushed out either? The janitors have a really good time trying to figure out
that one…
(glue a quarter in one of the urinals, always ane)… Turn off the
water under the sinks
too… Getting back to the soap, it is also good on the
hand railings in hallways and on
steps, If you mix perfume with it, some poor
grub has to have that stench on him all
day….
I shall start off with some of the cool aspects of a school cafeteria. As
most
of you know, this is not a very nice place, or atleast it’s not very nice in my
school., you have to get out there and catch the food before it gets away…
but in any
case…
1) School Cafeterias: In this ever growing world of terrorism, and practical
that they use
to cover the mold on the french-fries, makes a nice stain on
peoples clothing. So… take a
few packets of ketchup, and during phys. Ed.
you take the pack and put little holes in it,
then put it in someones back
pocket, (preferably white pants), do this while they are out in
the gym, and
you are alone in the locker room… It’s a gas when they get up after pulling
2) Marbles are very cool… especially
glass ones and steel ones, what you do
is, get into your ‘Friends’ locker and (if he/she has a
shelf) take a book and
brace it up at an angle, and leave them alot of marbles to play with…
so
when they open their locker, they should have no problem watching them spill
all over
the floor… then they get little questions like ‘Hey man, did you
loose all your marbles?’
and ‘Is this a throw back to your child hood?’. This
is even better when they have to go out
in the middle of a class period and
when all the marbles fall out he has teachers all over him
asking ‘What do you
think your doing?’ and the ever popular ‘Wheres your pass?’…
or plastic
baggies. ‘Cause, howd you like to go around smelling like a flower
all day long (if your a
boy), if your a girl, then your a wet flower… your
‘Friend’ walks down the hallway ‘Squish.
Squish Squish’ from all the water in
their sneakers…
4) Do any of your parents
have old contact lens fluid bottles? (small) If so
then your in luck… if you fill these with
water and walk down a crowded hall
you can have alot of fun… Spray your victem so it looks
like he/she took a
leak in thier pants… in a crowded hall-way, the’ll never notice till
someone
says.. ‘Hey, Professor Leaky… Turn off the faucets…’… If you want to be
even meaner, then you can take the bottle and fill it with the juices from a
rotten egg.. now
its’ one thing to piss in your pants, but if you go around
smelling like rotten eggs all day,
whew… I can almost guarntee a suspension
or a free trip home… (very embarrasing)…
5) During your free period, goto a pay phone and call the front office, and
have your
victim paged to the front office… tell the front office that you
are the boy/girls father
and your coming to pick them up for an emergency
doctors appointment… and to go and get
his/her books… then they sit in the
front office for 1/2 an hour, (and miss class).. then
they say ‘ Hey, did you
and some of your friends pull this stunt so you wouldnt have to
goto
class?!?!.. Goto the principals office NOW!’ Good ‘eh?
6) Heres some fun to
have at the library… goto the magazine rack and replace
the Sports Ill. and the other widely
read magazines with Playboy and some of
the others… (rip off the Sports. Ill. cover and put
Playboy inside) You
should see the expressions on the girls faces when they open that sucker
up…
(or on the teachers faces)…
7) Hide a cheap radio ($3.00 things that you
get from radio shack (am)) and
set it to blast when the locker is opend. (set it on some queer
station) To
set the wiring up.. Open up the radio and disconnect one of the wires going to
run it to
another switch, and a wire from the other end of that switch to the
old switch… now tape the
switch into the locker in a way that whenever the
locker is opend, the switch will go on, and
whenever the door closes, the
switch will go off… this is embarrasing, especially when you
cant find the
radio to turn it off…
Have you ever noticed that the water
fountains in schools have two holes in
them (for the water to come out of)… I have no idea
why they are there…
(maybe some one put them there for us to put to some GOOD use), take
some
chewing gum and plug up the bottom hole, this is great because that forces the
water out of the top hole at HIGH PRESSURE thus getting alot of people wet
(espoecially the
person getting the drink)… to give you an estimate of how
much power there is, in our
school, the auto shop ceiling is about 20 ft up,
and when the gum is in place the water hits
the ceiling (if it wasnt there it
would continue another 5 to 10 feet…)
You
people have all seen those little toy pellet guns that shoot the little
yellow plastic BB’s…
well, these are good in the hallways between classes
(or out the windows at the people that
are cutting classes) just be carefull not
to hit people in the eyes… (un-less it is
intentional)
I dont know if this is standard in all schools (I suppose this will
pertain to
some of you), you may have these long ‘Airconditioner/Heaters’ (they never
work) BUT… in our school these heaps of junk have a small opening for a 5/32
Allen key,
these are usefull for turning off the cold air in the winter and
turning it on in the warmer
months…)
Itching powder is fun… (especialy if theres someone in front of you in
a
class or two that you dont like..) just dump a little of this down there back.
WHAT?
You dont have any… well, as I said before, I work in a hardware store
and I can tell you for
a FACT that the fiberglass in isulation itches ALL DAY!
all you have to do is get some
insulation and shake it out onto a peice of
newspaper (tear it up a little if you have to) and
soon you will have a small
pile of shards of fiberglass.. put it into a small baggie or film
container,
and keep it in class with you… NOTE: Use gloves when you do this… this
WILL drive you insane by the end of the day if you get any into your hands…
Do you
have any dead animals laying around? A dead rat or some animal you have
scraped up off the
road? If not you should have one… you take them into the
bathrooms at school and lift off
the top (exposing the flush mechanism) and
you insert the animal into there… if it’s warm,
and moist then this animal
will start to rot, and smell extreamly bad… you may get lucky (if
they cant
find it) you MAY even get a day off from school while they look for it…
the teacher
can see what you are doing)… well.. have some fun.. change the
cables around so the teacher
does not know who she is looking at (or you can
make your terminal the master terminal.
*Bathroom Bombs*
Materials: A birthday or other small candle
1 M-80
Silly
Putty
Scrape off the bottom of the candle so that a half inch wick is on the
bottom. Tie the end of the wick to the fuse of the M-80. Place a small
ammount of silly putty
on one side of the candle, and a small ammount on one
side of the M-80. Use as little as
possible, just enough to make it stick!
Now the hard part, you need to lean over and stick the
candle and the M-80 to
the underside of the toilet. Be careful and make sure no one is going
to
dunk you. Light the candle and get out of the bathroom as calmly as possible.
You
have anywhere from thirty seconds to one minute so you have time to wash
your hands and act
normal. Make sure that you are nowhere NEAR the bathroom
because the teachers will interogate
anyone in the vicinity of the area.
Now you can have a BLAST at school!
(Litterally)
*The Cigarette Flash*
Materials: Filterless Cigarette
Lighter
Small Viel of Thinner
Matchbook
This on is FUN! Splash the thinner
all over the toilet paper in the
stall. Open the matchbook and place the cigarette in the
match book so
that the matchbook holds the cigarette in place firmly. Place the
combination matchbook/cigarette under the toilet paper any way you can fit
it in there. Now
the fun part. Light the cigarette and get out of the stall
calmly. With this you have between
two and five minutes (2-5) so you have
plenty of time to act normal and leave the bathroom at
a steady pace!!
/\
/CC\
/ \\ <—- Place the cigarette between the top
and the matches
/ \\
___________
| TTTTTTT |
| TTTTTTT | <—- Put
the matchbook/cigarette under the thinner soaked
| Match | toilet paper.
———–
Now have FUN! And be smart….don’t spill the thinner all over
yourself unless you
want to burn in hell (Pun)!! Hello! And welcome
to…ummm…issue #6 of Firecracker FUN!
In
this issue we will discuss the FLAMER which is the final issue of mild
firecracker
fun. The next 5-8 issues will be called: "Flaming GLORY!"
and will hols some more
potent things OTHER THAN firecrackers and oil!
Sooo….I hope that you enjoyed this series and
I REALLY hope that you
look forward to all my future series and issues!
Materials: 1/4 gallon gasoline
1/4 gallon oil
6 inch candle
LOTS of toilet
paper!!!
This one is scary….and FUN! At home mix the 1/4 gallon of
gasoline
with the 1/4 gallon of oil. Place the mixture in a gallon bag
that is easy to conceal. At
school put the toilet paper in the toilet
until it reaches the level of the water. Take the
candle and place it
firmly into the toilet paper so that it will stay upright for about 5
Light the candle
and you will have 10-15 minutes to get out. This one is
pretty scary if you are in the
bathroom at the time! There is NO noise
but if you are anywhere NEAR the stall you will see a
LARGE flame leap
up into the air!! KEWL!
[ ] * Fun with Fireworks *
There are MANY ways to have fun with firecrackers….but the best
are when you can actually
use them. My favorite ways are the Tube, the
rocket, and the big bang.
The tube
us a relatively normal arrangement…just that all the
bottle rockets should go off at the
same time. But what you do is take
three or four bottle rockets (the kind with the plastic
caps) and fill
the caps with some type of contact explosive. Then tape them all together
into a metal tube.
Light fuse and have fun….try not to blow off your
hand or other body part! By the
way….you do not really need to fill
the cap with an explosive….but it add’s to the BANG!!
———000000> <—- Fill cap with contact explosive
———00XX00>
———00XX00> <—- Tape all together!
———00XX00>
———00XX00>
———00XX00> <—- Tie all
fuses together
———00XX00>
Place them in a pipe and have fun
*The Rocket*
Materials: A 2 or 3 Stage Rocket
Superglue
Tape
Shredded
Paper
M-80 firecracker
All other equipment for launching
Any 2 or 3 stage
rocket will work fine. You must be willing to
to loose a rocket so I suggest not painting,
because it would be just
a waste of time and money. You can get a good 3 stage rocket for
under
$30 and the M-80’s you can buy at almost any firecracker store for
between $.80 -
$1.00!!
First put the rocket together. Then place the boosters in the
bottom
stage(s). In the uppermost stage glue the M-80 into place with
the fuse pointing downward.
Place the end of the fuse onto the upper
part of the adjoining booster and tape it into place
with a small piece
of tape. Fill the paracute area sparcely with shredded paper. Wait until
together. Now you are
ready to go! But be smart…don’t launch the rocket
in someone’s face or into a building
unless you are willing to take
responsibility for it! And try not to kill yourself in the
process!
What is supposed to happen is as you launch the rocket the first
stage’s
booster burns with an extremely high intensty and heat. As the
booster nears the to it ignites
a flameable substance that pushes upward
igniting the booster above it and ejecting it from
the rest of the rocket.
When the substance shoots upward into the M-80 it will ignite the fuse
or
it will detonate the M-80 immediatly (I am not sure which). Then as the
M-80
detonates it will blow the cap of the rocket off ejecting anything
in the paracute chamber.
BBBBOOOOOOO> <—- Place booster in the bottom stage(s)
BBBBM-80OOO>
<—- Glue M-80 in stage above booster and tape fuse
BBBBM-80PPP> <—- Put shredded
paper in paracute chamber
*Big BANG*
Materials: 10-15 M-80’s
Long
fuse…2 feet
Duct or Electric Tape
LUCK!!!
Ok. Now. Put all the M-80’s
into a circle packed as tightly
together as possible. Next put two or even three layers of
tape arround
the group of M-80’s. Connect all the fuses together pointing inward and
tie
(If you tape it use as little tape as possible) it to the long
piece of fuse. Then place
upright or if you want to have fun, bury it a
foot underground (if you do this you must have a
straw or a pipe leading
the fuse into the ground) and light the fuse. Now what you have here
is
like two or three sticks of dynamite, so get as far away as possible
and hit the
ground!! The explosion will be a HELL of a lot louder than
a small stick of dynamite so cover
your ears, don’t be a hero and go
deaf!
[ ] *How To Make Low
Explosives*
There are many formulas for low explosives, which, although they do not
have the
power or impact of the high explosives, are generally safer to use and handle.
It may seem at first that an explosive compound that has less power is a
disadvantage, but
this is not true. If a high-explosive charge were used to set
off a bullet in a gun, the gun
would probably explode in the user’s face.
Therefore, low explosives have a definite purpose
and use, and are not
interchangeable with high explosives. Although I stated above that,
generally
speaking, low explosives are more stable than high explosives, there are some
low-explosive compounds that are as dangerous as high-explosive compounds,
if not more so.
Below is a chart of the most common low-explosive compounds and
their stabilities and
merit.
[Potassium and sodium nitrate gunpowders]: These are without a doubt one of
packed into a tight
container, and exploded under pressure.
[Smokeless powder]: This type of low explosive is much
like the one mentioned
above, in the sense that it is extremely stable, but it is much more
demolition work.
[Potassium chlorates with sulfates]: Any mixture of potassium or sodium
chlorates should be
avoided at all costs, since most combinations will
explode immediately, on formation, and
those that don’t are extremely
unstable and likely to explode at any time.
[Ammonium
nitrate with chlorates]: This is similar to the compounds discussed
above. These are extremely
hazardous compounds, with very unstable
ingredients.
[Potassium chlorate and red
phosphorus]: This combination is probably the
most unstable and highly sensitive of all the
low explosives. It will
explode immediately and violently upon formation, even in the open
[Aluminum or megnesium with potassium chlorate or sodium
peroxide]: Any of
these combinations, although not quite as unstable as the one
discussed above, is still too sensitive to experiment or play around
with.
[Barium
chlorate with shellac gums]: Any mixture employing either barium or
barium nitrate and carbon,
or barium chlorate and any other substance,
must be given great care. Barium nitrate and
strontium nitrate mixed
together form a very sensitive explosive, but the danger is greatly
[Barium and strontium nitrate with
aluminum and potassium perchlorate]: This
combination is relatively safe, as is the
combination of barium
nitrate and sulfur, potassium nitrate, and most other powdered
metals.
[Guanidine nitrate and a combustible]: This combination of guanidine nitrate
and
a combustible (i.e. powdered antimony) is one of the safest of all
low explosives.
[Potassium bichromate and potassium permanganate]: This is a very sensitive
and unstable
compound, and should be avoided, as it is really too
hazardous to work with or handle.
The low-explosive reaction is based on the principle of a combustible
material combined
with an oxidizing agent, in other words combining a material
that burns easily with another
material which in the chemical reaction will
supply the necessary oxygen for the combustible’s
consumption. Listed below
are the most common low-explosive combinations of oxidizing agents
and
combustibles. The first ingredient listed is the oxidizer, and the second is
the
combustible:
[1> Nitric acid and resin.
[2> Barium nitrate and magnesium.
[3> Ammonium nitrate and powdered aluminum.
[4> Barium peroxide and zinc dust.
[5> Ammonium perchlorate and asphaltum.
[6> Sodium chlorate and shellac gum.
[7> Potassium nitrate and charcoal.
[8> Sodium peroxide and flowers of sulfur.
[9> Magnesium perchlorate and woodmeal.
[10> Potassium perchlorate and cane sugar.
[11> Sodium nitrate and sulfur flour.
[12> Potassium bichromate and antimony sulfide.
[14> Potassium chlorate and red
phosphorus.
[15> Potassium permanganate and powdered sugar.
[16> Barium chlorate
and parrafin wax.
The combinations that are most unstable and sensitive are numbers
[ ] * How to Make
Nitroglycerine
As most people know, nitroglycerin is an extremely powerful
explosive,
used largely today by industry, and made in huge cement mixers that hold
hundreds of gallons. It is not safe to make, and you shouldn’t even think of
making any unless
you plan to use it (and don’t make more than you need). I
hope anyone who does make some has
had atleast some chemistry and a little bit
of brains.
MATERIALS:
1) 70%
concentrated nitric acid
2) 98% concentrated sulfuric acid
3) Glycerin
4) Baking
soda
5) A *GOOD* thermometer and glassware (beakers, glass rod-stirring device,
test
tubes, eyedropper, whatever–must be all glass materials though.
Acid eats everything else.
Also, whatever you use to hold your
solutions should have as thin a glass wall as possible–to
diffuse heat
faster.)
6) Very large ice-bath
7) Gloves, Goggles, etc.
Blue litmus paper
9) Kitchen sink
OBTAINING MATERIALS:
Nitric acid can be
bought for about $19+ per gallon (it’s cheaper to buy
in this quantity). You need to be 21,
but some chemical places don’t care.
Sulfuric acid can be bought the same way, at $14+ per
gallon.
Glycerine can be bought at any drug store. You won’t need half as much
glycerine
as acid. The actual quantity and ratio varies–and is really
unimportant in this recipe.
The thermometer and glassware, etc., can be bought by anyone, but it’s
cheaper to ‘borrow’
from chem lab. If you have to buy, there should be a
place near any college campus that sells
the stuff.
THE REACTION:
H
!
H-C-O-NO2
!
H-C-O-NO2
===========> N2 + CO2 + O2 + H2O
!
H-C-O-NO2
!
H
PROCEDURE:
1) Mix by volume 3 parts sulfuric acid with 1 part nitric. Add the
sulfuric
to the nitric *NOT* vice versa (you never add water to acid because
it splatters, and the
nitric is 30% water). Your beaker/test tube should be
contained in the ice bath because this
solution is gets *HOT*–but isn’t
dangerous, yet. Stir a little bit, but don’t put your face
right over it
(vapors). Wait til it cools to 0-5 degrees centigrade. You’ll need to rig
some kind of contraption, if you don’t have the proper lab equipment, in order
to keep the
thermometer from touching the edge of the beaker/test tube–an
accurate reading is *VERY*
important.
2) Once the acids are cool enough you can start adding glycerin. While
stirring constantly, use the eyedropper and add about 5 drops. If the heat
doesn’t rise, add 8
drops, and see what happens. Keep adding larger amounts
until the temperature rises. Once it
does, wait (don’t stop stirring til at
least 30 seconds after adding glycerine) for the
temperature to drop back down
to 0-5 degreees centigrade. DON’T EVER LET THE TEMPERATURE GET
ABOVE 30
DEGREES CENTIGRADE–If you do, you lose. It might not blow up, but it will
decompose, and you’ll get nothing but garbage (the person who designed this
recipe has had it
go as high as 40 and not explode). To be safe, keep it
below 20 degrees centigrade, and if it
gets above that, dump the whole thing
in the ice bath (there better be plenty of ice too,
cause sulfur and water
react, and you need plenty of ioce to keep that reaction cool). The
temperature.
3) The nitroglycerin is slowly decomposing at this point, so you want to
work fast here. The sulfuric has only been a catalyst for the reaction and
needs to be washed
out. Fill a container 10x the volume of your solution with
ice water (again, ice is important
cause sulfur and water react giving off
enough heat to set off the nitro) and add your
solution to it. Stir
thoroughly (nitro and water don’t mix). Let the nitro seperate (it
will
settle to the bottom) and pour off the water (acids and all) down the drain.
Put
your saolution under the tap and add more water. Stir again and let
settle (settling can be
helped by adding a little of ordinary dishsoap–like
half a drop). Pour off again. Repeat the
process 3 or 4 times. Make sure
*ALL* the water is poured off (to get the last little bit, try
dragging paper
it stays blue, everything is fine. If it turns red, wash your solution a few
4) After the solution is ‘clean’, wash with a baking soda solution (1
tsp./ quart of water). Follow the same steps outlined above, but only wash
once. Pour your
final solution into a glass bottle. Put in the fridge.
CAUTIONS:
First of all,
store nitroglycerin in a cool place–like the fridge (or try
the freezer. I don’t know what
the freezing point is). Label it so nobody
accidently dumps it or drinks it. If you still live
at home, then bury it in
the fridge and disguise it so your parents wouldn’t want to touch it
or
examine it. You don’t really need to keep it that cold. You could fairly
safely store
it in your closet. Although if you live in an area with extreme
heat (like Palm Springs) it
might not be a good idea. Don’t breath the vapors
or swallow any–you’ll get a short but
incredible headache. If you touch some
you’ll get the headache of your life that will last up
to 12 hours.
DETONATION:
What you wil probably want to try as soon as you make
nitroglycerin is a
simple little experiment to prove to yourself it works. Put *ONE* drop on
a
paper towell and strike with a hammer.
Nitro, in this form, is not all that easy to
blow up. Throwing a bottle
of the stuff at a wall or dropping it off a five story building
will do
nothing more than break the bottle. The best way to detonate nitroglycerin is
with a wax coated firecracker taped on the inside of your container.
VARIATIONS:
Putty- Mix your final solution with sawdust or diatomacious earth (which
you can get at pool
stores) to the consistency of silly putty. All this does
is make your nitro easier to work
with.
Flash Paper- This is a little more difficult to make, a little safer, and
maybe more fun. Instead of adding glycerin to your acids in step 2, use gun
cotton (*REAL*
cotton). You don’t have to watch the temperature either. Just
toss a bunch of cotton in and
let it soak up your solution (don’t be stupid
though–add them slowly the first time). You
don’t need to be in as much of a
rush either because it doesn’t decompose as fast. You’re
nitrating the
cotton, so let it sit a couple hours in the mix. Then pour off all the acid
fairly clean you
can pull out the cotton and wash by hand–*VERY WELL*. Let
the cotton dry out, then put a
piece in a jar with a very small amount of
acitone (which you can purchase at any hardware
store and is perfectly safe).
The cotton will dissolve like cotton candy in water. Any cotton
left in the
jar should be taken out. Now let the acitone evaporate. There will be a
small plastic-like film at the bottom of the jar. You can light this stuff
like flash
paper.
Jelly- If you are brave you can dissolve the ‘flash paper’ in nitro and
get a
jelly like substance that is quite powerful and easier to work with.
Use very little nitro and
a lot of ‘flash paper’ (you’ll have to experiment to
find what works best for the consistency
you want.
[ ] * How to make Nitroglycerine #2 *
1. Fill a 75-milliliter beaker,
to the 13-ml level, with fuming red Nitric
Acid, of 98 percent concentration
2. Place
beaker in an ice bath and allow to cool below room temperature
3. After it has cooled, add to
it three times the amount of fuming Nitric
Acid 39 milliliters of fuming Sulfuric Acid. When
mixing any acids,
always do it slowly and carefully to avoid splattering.
4. When the
two are mixed, lower their temperature by adding more ice to the
ice bath, to about 10 or 15
degrees centigrade. This can be measured by
using a mercury-operated centigrade
thermometer.
5. When the acid solution has cooled to the desired temperature, it is ready
medicine dropper.
Glycerine is added, slowly and carefully, until the
entire surface is covered with it.
6. This is a dangerous point, since the nitration will take place soon as
the Glycerine is
added. The nitration will produce heat, so the solution
must be kept below 30 degrees Celsius.
If the beaker should go above
30 degrees, the beaker should be taken out of the ice bath and
the
solution should be carefully poured directly into the ice bath, since
this will
prevent an explosion
7. For about the first ten minutes of nitration, the mixture should be
layer on top of the
acid solution, while the Sulfuric Acid absorbs the
excess water.
8. After the nitration
has taken place and the Nitroglycerine has formed at
the top of the solution, the entire
beaker should be transferred very
slowly and carefully to another beaker of water. When this
is done the
Nitroglycerine will settle to the bottom, so that most of the acid
solution
can be drained away.
9. After moving as much acid as possible without disturbing the
Nitroglycerine, remove the Nitroglycerine with an eyedroper and place it
in a bicarbonate of
soda (Sodium Bicarbonate) solution. The Sodium
Bicarbonate is an alkali and will nutralize
much of the acid remaining.
This process should be repeated as many times as necessary using
blue
litmus paper to check for the presence of acid. The remaining acid only
makes the
Nitroglycerine more unstable then it normally is.
10. The final step is to remove the
Nitroglycerine from the bicarbonate this
is done with an eyedropper, slowly and carefully. The
usual test to see
if nitration has been successful is to place one drop of the
Nitroglycerine on a metal plate and ignite it. If it is true
Nitroglycerine it will burn with
a clear blue flame. Caution:
Nitroglycerine is extremely sensitive to decomposition,
heating,
dropping, or jarring, and may explode even left undisturbed and cool.
Know what
you are doing before you make this stuff.
[*Nitroglycerine #3*]
Nitroglycerine is one of the most sensitive explosives, if it is not
the most sensitive.
Although it is possible to make it safely, it is difficult.
Many a young anarchist has been
killed or seriously injured while trying to
make the stuff. When Nobel’s factories make it,
many people were killed by the
all-to-frequent factory explosions. Usually, as soon as it is
made, it is
converted into a safer substance, such as dynamite. An idiot who attempts
to
make nitroglycerine would use the following procedure:
MATERIAL EQUIPMENT
distilled water eye-dropper
table salt 100 ml beaker
sodium bicarbonate 200-300 ml
beakers (2)
concentrated nitric ice bath container
acid (13 ml) ( a plastic bucket
serves well )
concentrated sulfuric centigrade thermometer
acid (39 ml) blue litmus
paper
glycerine
1) Place 150 ml of distilled water into one of the 200-300 ml
beakers.
2) In the other 200-300 ml beaker, place 150 ml of distilled water and
about
a spoonful of sodium bicarbonate, and stir them until the sodium bicarbonate
dissolves. Do not put so much sodium bicarbonate in the water so that some
remains
undissolved.
3) Create an ice bath by half filling the ice bath container with ice,
and
adding table salt. This will cause the ice to melt, lowering the overall
temperature.
4) Place the 100 ml beaker into the ice bath, and pour the 13 ml of
concentrated
nitric acid into the 100 ml beaker. Be sure that the beaker will not spill
into the ice bath, and that the ice bath will not overflow into the beaker
when more materials
are added to it. Be sure to have a large enough ice bath
container to add more ice. Bring the
temperature of the acid down to about 20
degrees centigrade or less.
5) When the
nitric acid is as cold as stated above, slowly and carefully add the
39 ml of concentrated
sulfuric acid to the nitric acid. Mix the two acids
together, and cool the mixed acids to 10
degrees centigrade. It is a good
idea to start another ice bath to do this.
6)
With the eyedropper, slowly put the glycerine into the mixed acids, one drop
at a time. Hold
the thermometer along the top of the mixture where the mixed
acids and glycerine meet. DO NOT
ALLOW THE TEMPERATURE TO GET ABOVE 30
DEGREES CENTIGRADE; IF THE TEMPERATURE RISES ABOVE THIS
TEMPERATURE,
RUN
LIKE HELL!!! The glycerine will start to nitrate immediately, and
the
temperature will immediately begin to rise. Add glycerine until there is a
thin
layer of glycerine on top of the mixed acids. It is always safest to
make any explosive in
small quantities.
7) adding ice and salt to the ice bath to keep the temperature of the
solution
in the 100 ml beaker well below 30 degrees centigrade. Usually, the
nitroglycerine will form on the top of the mixed acid solution, and the
concentrated sulfuric
acid will absorb the water produced by the reaction.
When the reaction is over, and
when the nitroglycerine is well below 30
degrees centigrade, slowly and carefully pour the
solution of nitroglycerine
and mixed acid into the distilled water in the beaker in step 1.
The
nitroglycerine should settle to the bottom of the beaker, and the water-acid
solution on top can be poured off and disposed of. Drain as much of the
acid-water solution as
possible without disturbing the nitroglycerine.
9) Carefully remove the nitroglycerine
with a clean eye-dropper, and place it
into the beaker in step 2. The sodium bicarbonate
solution will eliminate
much of the acid, which will make the nitroglycerine more stable, and
less
likely to explode for no reason, which it can do. Test the nitroglycerine
with the
litmus paper until the litmus stays blue. Repeat this step if
necessary, and use new sodium
bicarbonate solutions as in step 2.
10) When the nitro