Suburban Terrorism Handbook

An interesting collection of articles revolving around sururban anarchy..


Suburban Terrorism Handbook

Letter Bombs
—— —–

- You will first have to make a mild version of
thermite. Use my recipe, but
substitute iron fillings for rust.

- Mix the iron
with aluminum fillings in a ratio of 75% aluminum to 25% iron.
This mixture will burn
violently in a closed space (such as an envelope).
This brings us to our next ingredient… />
- Go to the post office and buy an insulated (padded) envelope. You know, the
type
that is double layered… Seperate the layers and place the mild
thermite in the main section,
where the letter would go. Then place magnesium
powder in the outer layer. There is your
bomb!!

- Now to light it… This is the tricky part and hard to explain. just keep /> experimenting until you get something that works. The fuse is just that touch
explosive I
have told you about in another one of my anarchy files. You might
want to wrap it like a long
cigarette and then place it at the top of the
envelope in the outer layer (on top of the
powdered magnesium). When the
touch explosive is torn or even squeezed hard it will ignite the
powdered
magnesium (sort of a flash light) and then it will burn the mild thermite. If

the thermite didn’t blow up, it would at least burn the fuck out of your
enemy (it does
wonders on human flesh!).

Solidox Bombs
——- —–

Most people
are not aware that a volatile, extremely explosive chemical can be
bought over the counter:
solidox.

Solidox comes in an aluminum can containing 6 grey sticks, and can be bought
at
K-mart, and various hardware supply shops for around $7.00. Solidox is used in

welding applications as an oxidizing agent for the hot flame needed to melt
metal. The most
active ingredient in solidox is potassium chlorate, a filler
used in many military
applications in the WWII era.

Since solidox is literally what the name says: solid
oxygen, you must have an
energy source for an explosion. The most common and readily available
energy
source is common household sugar, or sucrose. In theory, glucose would be the

purest energy source, but it is hard to find a solid supply of glucose.

Making the
mixture:

[1] open the can of solidox, and remove all 6 sticks. One by one, grind up /> each of the sticks (preferably with a mortar and pestle) into the finest
powder
possible.

[2] the ratio for mixing the sugar with the solidox is 1:1, so weigh the /> solidox powder, and grind up the equivalent amount of sugar.
[3] mix equivalent amounts of
solidox powder, and sugar in a 1:1 ratio.

It is just that simple! You now have an
extremely powerful substance that can
be used in a variety of applications. A word of caution:
be extremely careful
in the entire process. Avoid friction, heat, and flame. A few years back,
a
teenager I knew blew 4 fingers off while trying to make a pipe bomb with
solidox. You
have been warned!

Paint Bombs
—– —–

To make a paint bomb you
simply need a metal pain can with a refastenable lid,
a nice bright color paint (green, pink,
purple, or some gross color is
perfect!), and a quantity of dry ice. Place the paint in the
can and then drop
the dry ice in. Quicky place the top on and then run like hell! With some /> testing you can time this to a science. It depends on the ratio of dry ice to
paint to the
size of the can to how full it is. If you are really pissed off at
someone, you could place it
on their doorstep, knock on the door, and then
run!! Paint will fly all over the place.

Thermite II
——– –

Thermite is nasty shit. Here is a good and
easy way to make it. The first step
is to get some iron-oxide (which is rust!). Here is a good
way to make large
quantities in a short time:

- get a DC convertor like the one
used on a train set. Cut the connector off,
seperate the wires, and strip them both.
/> - now you need a jar of water with a tablespoon or so of sodium chloride (which
is salt!)
added to it. This makes the water conductive.

- now insert both wires into the mixture
(i am assuming you plugged the
convertor in…) and let them sit for five minutes. One of them
will start
bubbling more than the other. This is the positive(+) wire. If you do not do

this test right, the final product will be the opposite (chemically) of rust,
which is rust
acid. You have no use for this here (although it is useful!).

- anyway, put the nail
tied to the positive wire into the jar. Now put the
negative wire in the other end. Now let it
sit overnight and in the morning
scrape the rust off of the nail & repeat until you got a
bunch of rust on the
bottom of the glass. Be generous with your rust collection. If you are
going
through the trouble of making thermite, you might as well make a lot, right?
/> - now remove the excess water and pour the crusty solution onto a cookie sheet.
Dry it in
the sun for a few hours, or inside overnight. It should be an
orange-brown color (although I
have seen it in many different colors).

- crush the rust into a fine powder and heat it
in a cast-iron pot until it is
red. Now mix the pure iron oxide with pure aluminum fillings
which can be
bought or filed down by hand from an aluminum tube or bar. The ratio or iron /> oxide to aluminum is 8 grams to 3 grams.

- congrats! You have just made thermite!
Now, to light it…

- thermite requires a lot of heat (more than a blow torch!) to
ignite. However,
a magnesium ribbon (which is sorta hard to find.. Call around, or you
could
steal some from school) will do the trick. It takes the heat from the burning

magnesium to light the thermite.

- now when you see your victim’s car, pour a
fifty-cent sized pile onto his
hood, stick the ribbon in it, and light the ribbon with the
blow torch. Now
chuckle as you watch it burn through the hood,the block, the axle, and the /> pavement. Be careful! The ideal mixtures can vaporize carbon steel! Another
idea is to use
thermite to get into pay phone cash boxes. Have fun!!

Explosions: Effective
Demolition
———– ——— ———-

We will be using this brand of pipe
bomb in most all of our elimination

exploits:

One 1 foot length of pipe
(threaded)
two caps for the ends of the pipe.
One baby-food jar
about a baby-food
jar full worth of vinegar
baking soda
some gravel

To construct the pipe
bomb:

1. Cap one end of the pipe with a metal cap tightly!

2. Fill the
baby-food jar with vinegar, cover, and wipe clean!

3. Drop the baby-food jar into the
pipe lightly as not to break, and add some
gravel.

4. Pour baking soda to the rim
into the pipe bomb.

5. Cap the other end very tightly.

Synopsis:
/> Once you crack the pipe hard enough to break the baby food jar, it will cause
the baking
soda to create such pressure, that it will explode. The explosion
is more than effective.
Rumor has it that when it was thrown into an old car,
it blew the doors about ten feet away,
and the roof three feet into the air.
When this device was constructed by myself, I just stuck
it under an old tree,
and it was removed. You have about five minutes to wait, so you might
still
have time to acquire a quick alibi.

Using the pipe/pressure bomb:
/> Someone you hate? Well, creep out of your house real late at night (3-4:00)
and walk up to
their house. Crack it to start on the driveway, and throw under
the car. Run home, then read
the police reports. Once you have been better
acquainted with device, it can be used to help
you out. Throw it under the
stage of a play, or leave it in the bathroom of your school,
etc.

Cable for Free
—– — —-

This document is a simple way to
get all the cable systems for free:

1. Go out front of your house to where the small
green cable box is located. It
is about 1 1/2 feet high and will have a padlock on the ground
side of it.

2. So you ask, how the heck do I open a locked box? Simple, just pull open
the
top of it! They are so stupid they don’t even lock the top.

3. Ok, now you
have opened the cable box you will see the following:

+———————-+
|
() () () |
| |
+———————-+

There will be a small box with a
pipe holding it up in the air. Through trial
and error (I guess) you will have to find out
which one of the sprockets is
yours. After you find out, do this:

Side View: />
+—-+
+ +-
+ +
+ +
+—-+—+
! !
! !
!
!<-wire to box
! !
! Pipe +—–+<-scrambler
!<– !
+——+

Ok, there will be a silver tube conected by two sprockets like this:

+ <-1
sprocket
!
###
###
### <-scrambler
###
!
+ <-2
sprocket

The 1 sprocket will be connected to the box, unscrew the scrambler from the /> box. Unscrew the wire that is connected into sprocket 2 then connect the wire
you just
removed from sprocket 2 into the box. Basically you are just removing
the scrambler! Now, go
back home and watch anything you want. It may seem
complicated but once you are out there
looking at the box , you will
understand. By the way, if you can’t figure out which hole is
yours, just give
cable to all 3 of you! You and your 2 neighbors.

Improved
Molotov Cocktail
——– ——- ——–

- get a coke bottle & fill it with
gasoline about half full

- cram a piece of cloth into the neck of it nice and tight />
- get a chlorine tablet and stuff it in there. You are going to have
to force it
because the tablets are bigger than the opening of the bottle.

- now find a suitable
victim and wing it in their direction. When it hits the
pavement or any surface hard enough to
break it, and the chlorine and
gasoline mix….. Boom!!!!!!

SOFT DRINK CAN
BOMB

An article from the book:
The Poor Man’s James Bond

This is an
anti-personnel bomb meant for milling crowds. The bottom of a
soft drink can is half cut out
and bent back. A giant firecracker or other
explosive is put in and surrounded with nuts and
bolts or rocks. The fuse is
then armed with a chemical delay in a plastic drinking straw. />
After first making sure there are no children nearby, the acid or glycerine
is put
into the straw and the can is set down by a tree or wall where it will
not be knocked over.
The delay should give you three to five minutes. It will
then have a shattering effect on
passerbys. It is hardly likely that anyone
would pick up and drink from someone else’s soft
drink can. But if such a crude
person should try to drink from your bomb he would break a
nasty habit fast!

||
||
|| <-chemical ingiter
———
!
|!| !
!*+—+@!
!*| |#!
!$| |%!
!#| |*!<- big firecracker
!@|
|#!
!%+—+@!
!&&%#@**!
!@+*&@%&!
!%@#&%##!

!*$%***@! <- nuts & bolts
!***@#%#!
!#@##**&!
———

FLAMETHROWER FUN!
How to Make Your Own Personal Flamethrowing Device

You’ll
need:

- A small garden sprayer (must be metal)

- A backpack of reasonable
size.

- A length of tubing (stiff plastic) about the same diameter as the tubing on /> the sprayer (2-3′ long).

- A circle of metal roughly the same diameter as a
grapefruit.

- A soldering iron.

- Some solder, black tape, and sealant. />
- Some small handles, and insulation.

Now, here’s how to make the sucker: />
- Take the tubing off of the garden sprayer (mainly cause the fuel will eat
through
it, and you will be a crispy
critter).

- Replace it with the hard plastic tubing
(3).

- Solder the circle of metal on just below the nozzle so that you cannot get

caught by the spray.

- Solder the handles onto the metal part of the sprayer tube, and
spray them
with the insulation, then wrap them in black tape.

- Put the tank in
the backpack, and zip it up so it’s tight, then hook the
zippers together with some wire. /> You now have a small reliable Flame thrower!

FLAMETHROWER INSTRUCTIONS:

- Never let your tank run too low.

- Only use the fuel listed below.

- Do
not allow the tank to become punctured, or dented.

- Never use an open phlame to light
the phlamethrower.

Stick by this, and you should be all right.

FLAMETHROWER FUEL:

The best fuel I have found is:

1 part coleman’s lantern
fuel.
2 parts kerosene
1 part gas

**WARNING** NEVER use straight gas
only!

Effective Murder
——— ——

Disclaimer:

This file is not intended for everyday use (unless, of course, you’re a
psycho, like myself,)
but for self-defense, and for your own protection. The
information contained in this file can
be found in any major library, or
martial Arts class. So, for all you feds, or general peace
activists, better
stop reading now. You won’t enjoy it. and, to all anarchists, I hope you
will
find this file enjoyable, and for good use when our nation is in peril, or for
some
good old fashioned ass-kicking.

Effective Neck-Breaking Techniques:

*crossneck*

This method will only work if you are much taller (1 1/2 - 2 feet) than
your
target, or the target is sitting down (guards, teachers, etc.) Approach the
target
from the behind slowly as not to startle, then place your left arm
around the neck, and the
right arm across the neck (over the left) And grab
your upper-left arm with your right arm.
Move the right arm upward sharply,
and the left arm left firmly around the neck. Pop the neck
out of the spinal
cord, and seperate the head from the rest of the body. The neck should be
quite
twistable now. Damage the spinal cord, so the victim has little/no hope for

survival. Don’t even think about whipping out a knife. This method is for
killing without
leaving a single mark.

*throat demolition*

When using this technique, be
sure to rid your concience of any regrets while
attempting this. You will be staring your
victin eye-to-eye, and you dont want
to cower out. Your victim will have a scared-shitless
look of "why me?" they
will look so innocent, it might make you chicken out. Creep
up to your mark
while they are leaning over (reading, loading gun, etc.) Stare down at what /> they’re doing by their right side, then place the left arm around the neck from
the
underside. In other words, extend the left arm under their chin, then reach
back around to the
back of the head. Grab the neck tightly, place your
shoulder on their chest, flip them over
onto the table or floor, then punch
them as hard as you can right in the throat.

5 Easy Steps to Credit Card Fraud
- —- —– — —— —- —–

For most of
you out there, money is hard to come by. Until now:

With the recent advent of plastic
money (credit cards), it is easy to use
someone else’s credit card to order the items you have
always desired in life.
The stakes are high, but the payoff is worth it.

Step
One: Getting the Credit Card Information

First off, you must obtain the crucial item:
someone’s credit card number.
The best way to get credit card numbers is to take the blue
carbons used in a
credit card transaction at your local department store. These can usually
be
found in the garbage can next to the register, or for the more daring, in the
garbage
dumpster behind the store. But, due to the large amount of credit card
fraud, many stores have
opted to use a carbonless transaction sheet, making
things much more difficult. This is where
your phone comes in handy.

First, look up someone in the phone book, and obtain as much
information as
possible about them. Then, during business hours, call in a very convincing /> voice -"hello,this is john doe from the visa credit card fraud investigations

department. We have been informed that your credit card may have been used for
fraudulent
purposes, so will you please read off the numbers appearing on your
visa card for
verification." of course, use your imagination! Believe it or
not, many people will fall
for this ploy and give out their credit information.

Now, assuming that you have your
victim’s credit card number, you should be
able to decipher the information given.
/> Step Two: Recognizing Information from Carbon Copies

Card examples:

[american express]
xxxx xxxxxx xxxxx
mm/y1 thru mm/y2
joe shmoe

[american express]
xxxx xxxxxx xxxxx
mm/y1 thru mm/y2
joe shmoe

Explanation:
mm/y1 is the date the card was issued, and mm/y2 is the expiration date.

The american express gold card has numbers xxxxxx xxxxxxxx xxxxxxxx, and is
covered for up to
$5000.00, even if the card holder is broke.

[mastercard]
5xxx xxxx xxxx xxxx /> xxxx aaa dd-mm-yy mm/yy
joe shmoe

Explanation:
xxxx in the second row
may be asked for during the ordering process. The
first date is when the card was new, and the
second is when the card expires.
The most frequent number combination used is 5424 1800 xxxx
xxxx. There are
many of these cards in circulation, but many of these are on wanted lists,
so
check these first.

[visa]
4xxx xxx(x) xxx(x) xxx(x)
mm/yy
mm/yy*visa
joe shmoe

Explanation:
visa is the most abundant card, and is
accepted almost everywhere. The
"*visa" is sometimes replaced with "bwg",
or
followed with a special code. These codes are as follows:
[1] mm/yy*visa v -
preferred card
[2] mm/yy*visa cv - classic card
[3] mm/yy*visa pv - premier card

preferred cards are backed with money, and are much safer to use. Classic
cards are
newer, harder to reproduce cards with decent backing. Premier cards
are classic cards with
preferred coverage. Common numbers are 4448 020 xxx
xxx, 4254 5123 6000 xxxx, and 4254 5123
8500 xxxx. Any 4712 1250 xxxx xxxx
cards are ibm credit union cards, and are risky to use,
although they are
usually covered for large purchases.

Step Three: Testing
Credit

You should now have a visa, mastercard, or american express credit card
number,
with the victim’s address, zip code, and phone number. By the way, if you have

problems getting the address, most phone companies offer the address tracking
service, which
is a special number you call that will give you an address from
a phone number, at a nominal
charge. Now you need to check the balance of
credit on the credit card (to make sure you don’t
run out of money), and you
must also make sure that the card isn’t stolen. To do this you must
obtain a
phone number that businesses use to check out credit cards during purchases.
If
you go to a department store, watch the cashier when someone makes a credit
card purchase.
He/she will usually call a phone number, give the credit
information, and then give what is
called a "merchant number". These numbers
are usually written down on or around the
register. It is easy to either find
these numbers and copy them, or to wait until they call
one in. Watch what
they dial and wait for the 8 digit (usually) merchant number. Once you
call
the number, in a calm voice, read off the account number, merchant number,
amount,
and expiration date. The credit bureau will tell you if it is ok, and
will give you an
authorization number. Pretend you are writing this number
down, and repeat it back to them to
check it. Ignore this number completely,
for it serves no real purpose. However, once you do
this, the bank removes
dollars equal to what you told them, because the card was supposedly
used to
make a purchase. Sometimes you can trick the operator by telling her the

customer changed his mind and decided not to charge it. Of course, some will
not allow this.
Remember at all times that you are supposed to be a store
clerk calling to check out the card
for a purchase. Act like you are talking
with a customer when he/she "cancels". />
Step four: The Drop

Once the cards are cleared, you must find a place to have
the package sent.
Never use a drop more than once. The following are typical drop sites:

[1] an empty house

an empty house makes an excellent place to send things. Send
the package ups,
and leave a note on the door saying, "ups. I work days, 8 to 6. Could
you
please leave the package on the back door step?" you can find dozens of houses

from a real estate agent by telling them you want to look around for a house.
Ask for a list
of twenty houses for sale, and tell them you will check out the
area. Do so, until you find
one that suits your needs.

[2] rent a spot

U-haul sometimes rents spaces
where you can have packages sent and signed for.
End your space when the package arrives. />
[3] people’s houses

Find someone you do not know, and have the package sent
there. Call ahead
saying that "i called the store and they sent the package to the wrong
address.
It was already sent, but can you keep it there for me?" this is a very

reliable way if you keep calm when talking to the people. Do not try post
office boxes. Most
of the time, ups will not deliver to a post office box, and
many people have been caught in
the past attempting to use a post office box.
Also, when you have determined a drop site, keep
an eye on it for suspicious
characters and cars that have not been there before.

Step Five: Making the Transaction

You should now have a reliable credit card number
with all the necessary
billing information, and a good drop site.

The best place
to order from is catalogs, and mail order houses. It is in your
best interest to place the
phone call from a pay phone, especially if it is a
1-800 number. Now, when you call, don’t try
to disguise your voice, thinking
you will trick the salesperson into believing you are an
adult. These folks
are trained to detect this, so your best bet is to order in your own
voice.
They will ask for the following: name, name as it appears on card, phone
number,
billing address, expiration date, method of shipping, and product. Ask
if they offer UPS Red
Shipping (next day arrival), because it gives them less
time to research an order. If you are
using american express, you might have a
bit of a problem shipping to an address other than
the billing address. Also,
if the salesperson starts to ask questions, do not hang up. Simply
talk your
way out of the situation, so you won’t encourage investigation on the order.

If everything goes right, you should have the product, free of charge.
Insurance picks
up the tab, and no one is any wiser. Be careful, and try not
to order anything over $500. In
some states, ups requires a signature for
anything over $200, not to mention that anything
over $200 is defined as grand
theft, as well as credit fraud. Get caught doing this, and you
will bite it
for a couple of years. Good luck!

Auto Exhaust FlameThrower

—- ——- ————

For this one, all you need is a car, a sparkplug, ignition
wire and a switch.
Install the spark plug into the last four or five inches of the tail pipe
by
drilling a hole that the plug can screw into easily. Attach the wire (this is
regular
insulated wire) to one side of the switch and to the spark plug. The
other side of the switch
is attached to the positive terminal on the battery.
With the car running, simply hit the
switch and watch the flames fly!!! Again
be careful that no one is behind you! I have seen
some of these flames go 20
feet!!!

The Vulcan Grenade
— —— ——- />
This is a very simple explosive device that does the most damage out of any
bomb in
it’s class. It’s easy enough to build and it’s actually practical to
make about a dozen of
them in a few hours, put them in your Anarchy Bag, and go
and attack the local police station,
all in the same night!
you need:

1. CO2 bottles (for BB guns) that you can buy at
any Woolworth or store that
sells pellet guns.

2. Fuse. Good old fuse. Don’t be
cheap, get the good stuff. They sell it at
most hobby shops that carry parts for model
rockets.

3. Black Powder, aka Gun Powder. This might be difficult for some people, /> especially those who are deprived and don’t have any guns at home. Use
either FFF or FFFF.
If you can’t get ahold of black powder, you’re screwed
and can’t use this bomb.
* NOTE:
If you have smokeless powder, don’t use it. It HAS to be black powder
because black powder
explodes, which is what you want. Smokeless powder like
the kind you use for reloading won’t
build up enough pressure and your Vulcan
Grenade won’t do anything.

4. Rubber
Cement or model glue. You only need a very small amount. Even
Elmer’s Glue is good in a
pinch.

Take one of your CO2 bottle and empty it out. You can pop the cartridge in
one
of your BB guns and shoot holes in the neighbors windows like I used to or you
can
just take an electric drill and drill a hole in the top of the bottle and
get the CO2 out that
way. If you use the drill, be carefull because when the
CO2 comes out very fast the bottle
becomes supercooled and you could get
frostbite on your hand. Wear mittens or better yet a pot
holder. You should be
in a well ventilated area when you do this as well because you’ll have a
cloud
of CO2 floating around which isn’t poisonous but could suffocate you because
only
plants breathe CO2, not people.

After you have an empty CO2 bottle, take a funnel like
you would use for
changing oil in your car, put the small end on the neck of the empty CO2 /> bottle, and pour as much black powder into the bottle are you can fit. Stuff it
in
there.

Now take your fuse, which should be slightly smaller in diameter than the
hole
in the neck of the CO2 bottle. Insert the fuse into the bottle. If the fuse
won’t
fit, take your electric drill and use a larger drill bit and make the
hole just big enough for
the fuse to fit in. Don’t worry if it’s not a
perfectly airtight fit, it never is. Make sure
the fuse goes inside the bottle
at least 3/4 an inch, preferrably even deeper. It should be in
well enough so
that you don’t have to worry about it falling out. If you have to spill out
a
LITTLE bit of black powder, that’s okay.

Now we’ll make finish everything up.
Take the rubber cement or model glue, and
put a few drops around the opening of the CO2
bottle. Don’t use tons and tons
of it, just 3 or 4 drops. Use enough just to give you a good
seal around the
edge of the fuse where it enters the bottle. It doesn’t have to be a super /> tight indestructable seal. Just enough to keep the black powder from pouring
out while
you’re carrying it.

How Much Fuse You Need

Commercial hobby shop fuse
burns ABOUT 3 seconds to the inch. Use at LEAST 8 to
10 inches of fuse. This bomb is small but
it will kill EVERYTHING within a
radius of about 10 to 15 yards. I buried one in the ground
and lit it and it
blew chunks of mud about 10 feet high and made a crater about 4 feet in /> diameter. This is a shrapnel explosive, which means itsey bitsey pieces of
steel come
flying towards you at speeds of up to 500 miles per hour which then
bury themselves into your
flesh and cause great traumatic damage leaving you
and your friends dead and scattered all
over the ground. This bomb is very
LOUD. We’re talking MEGA LOUD. Basically you don’t want to
be within 1/2 mile
of this thing when it explodes if you’re in a quiet neighborhood becase /> EVERYONE within about 1/4 mile or more will hear it go off.

TEAR GAS
An
Article from the Book:
The Poor Man’s James Bond

There are several eye and
nose irritants on the market which can be easily
duplicated. A good irritant is formaldehyde.
better known as embalming fluid,
it smells horrible, hurts the eyes and nose, and on exposure
to the air it
vaporizes, making a room uninhabitable for hours. It can be squirted from a /> water pistol or nasal inhaler, or poured on the floor. It can be bought at the
drug store
under the pretext of wanting it to preserve mice or some other lab
specimen. The irritant
mailmen use against dogs and which is sold widely for
self defense is Oleoresid Capsicum.
Capsicum is the hot essence of red peppers.
Oleoresin is the process for extracting it. To
extract the capsicum, grind up
four ounces of red pepper seeds in a blender or with a mortar
and pestle. Red
pepper seeds are bought in the grocers’s. The dry, ground seeds are then
put
into a coffee percolator in which there is about 16 oz. of alcohol, preferably
with
the water distilled out. the seeds Are then percolated for about a half
hour. The alcohol is
then distilled off until there are only a couple of table
spoons of red liquid left in the
flask. The red liquid is then added to a half
pint of light mineral oil, bought at a drug
store. It can be sprayed from a
nasal sprayer… You could also use a window cleaning sprayer
bought at any
dime store. The tube of the sprayer is cut to fit in a two ounce medicine

bottle. This way you have enough of the goody to last through a whole
demonstration, no matter
which side you’re on. It is also nice to keep by the
door or by your computer to repel
intruders. Before using, the container
should be given a few shakes. Under laboratory
conditions all the oil is
extracted from the seeds. But with my mickey mouse method a lot of
oil is left
in so the residue is quite potent. Just be sure you strain out any larger bits /> so the sprayer hole is not clogged. The ground seeds left in the percolator are
dried and
saved. They are great for throwing into the faces of people in a mob.
If you really want a
laugh, throw some broadcast from a theater balcony during
the death scene in a "love
story". The goody called mace is probably only
acrolein. If not, it works just as well
and is simple and fun to produce.
Acrolein is not toxic but causes horrible pain in the nose
and copious
tears, and irritates the skin. A shot in the face from a water pistol or some /> other sprayer will put anyone out of the game for at least half an hour.
Acrolein is best
made one ounce at A time. Put in the flask 2 1/2 ounces Of
glycerine and 3/4 ounce of sodium
Bisulfate (sani- flush), both of which can be
bought at any grocery store. The still is set up
with the outside tube
connected as the fumes are bad. When the mixture starts to bubble it
Must be
watched constantly to make sure It does not bubble up into the neck of The

flask. If it starts for the neck of the flask, remove the lamp until it settles
down. If the
lamp is too hot, The tin can is raised on small blocks Until the
right heat is gotten. Distill
off an ounce of acrolei and take away the lamp.
An ounce is all it is good for. Let the flask
cool for an hour before opening
and cleaning. Pour the residue down the sink and put your face
over the drain
to get a sample of the vapor. then cap the receiving bottle and wash
everything
the acrolein was in contact with. the best squirter for the three irritants

above is a water pistol.

***ATTENTION*** Most water pistols leak badly so they must be
transported
barrel up so the goody won’t ooze out around the trigger. It will leak when you /> use it so it is best to put it in a plastic sandwich bag with the opening held
around the
barrel with the rubberband. If the pistol has a trigger guard it
should be cut off and then it
can be used just as easily in a plastic bag as
otherwise. For casual carrying around, you
can’t beat a nasal spray. the best
ones can be screwed open so the goody can be poured in. if
not, you have to
squeeze it and put its nozzle into the goody. When the pressure is
released
the irritant will be sucked up. Irritants are illegal to carry in some states.

that’s one of the reasons the nasal spray is best. if you are searched and it
is found, there
is little


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