IMPROVISED MUNITIONS
Black Books Vols. I, II, and III
"Nothing added, nothing taken away"
Typed by The Mad Cracker
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Opening: Greetings! Welcome to my first major production. What the hell is
this guy babbling about "black books"? Well, in the 60’s a special forces
program was developed at the Frankford arsenal to develop and test improvised
explosives. What you see here are the results of these tests. Typed directly
from Army TM 31-210 and Desert Publication’s Black Book Vol. III.
Disclaimer: I take absolutely no responsibility for the use of this material,
whether it be direct or indirect. What I have done here is simply provide this
information for one purpose only (har har) and that is for informational
purposes only. All information here, however, should be taken as seriously as
the bible. You can very easily fuck up and get killed. Please be very, very
careful (shit, i sound like your mother) when dealing with any of the items
presented here. Note especially the section on improvised pistols.
thanx. and by god…
HAVE PHUN!
What would you guys like next?
(note: the first (good) part of the poor mans james bond is in the works.. I am
sick of seeing all of his good book trashed into many files, so I will present
it (like this) in volume form..)
Poor mans James bond (first section only… its all that is good)
Anarchist cookbook (oohhhh nooo…)
Principles of Improvised Explosive Devices (a bunch of switches and initiators)
FM 5-20 Camouflage
Complete guide to lock picking
Get Even I and II
TM 31-200-1 Unconventional warfare- both of these are about sabotage mainly
TM 31-201-1 Unconventional warfare references
Grandads Book of Chemistry (are you kidding?)
FM 3-50-1 Deliberate Smoke Operations (just for that HS lunchroom…)
FM 23-30 Grenades and Pyrotechnics
ST 21-75-3 Dismounted Patroling
FM 5-15 Field Fortification
U.S. Navy Seal Manual- underwater demolitions, etc.. good book.
Improvised Munition Systems
Special Forces Handbook
Special Forces Operational Techniques
Anarchist HANDBOOK
Weaponeer (another from ‘ole Kurt Saxon)
Imp. Weapons of Modern Ninja (supposed to be good, its on order..)
IMPROVISED MUNITIONS
Black Books Vols. I, II, and III
"Nothing added, nothing taken away"
Typed by The Mad Cracker
Plastic Explosive Filler Sec I, No. I
A plastic explosive filler can be made from potassium chlorate and petroleum
jelly. This explosive can be detonated with a commercial #8 or any military
blasting cap.
Materials Sources
——— ——-
Potassium chlorate Medicine, match heads (white)
Petroleum jelly (vaseline) Medicine, Lubricant
Round stick
Wide bowl or other container for mixing
Procedure
———
1. Spread potassium chlorate crystals thinly on a hard surface. Roll the
round stick over
crystals to crush into a very fine powder or wheat flower.
2. Place 9 parts powdered potassium chlorate and 1 part petroleum jelly
in a wide bowl or
similar container. Mix ingredients with hands
until a uniform paste is obtained.
Note: Store in a waterproof container until ready to use.
Potassium Nitrate Sec. I, No. 2
Potassium nitrate can be extracted from many natural sources and can be used to
make nitric acid, black powder and many pyrotechnics. The yield ranges from .1
to 10% by weight, depending on the fertility of the soil.
Materials Sources
——— ——-
Nitrate bearing earth or other material, Soil containing old decayed
about 3.5- gallons (13.5 liters) vegetable or animal matter
Old cellars/farm floors, earth
decayed stone or mortar
building foundations.
Fine wood ashes, about .5 cup (1/8 liter) totally burned whitish wood ash
powder, totally
black paper
Bucket, about 5 gallons (19 l) in volume
2 pieces finely woven cloth, each slightly
bigger than the bottom of the bucket
shallow pan or dish, at least as large as
the bottom of bucket
Shallow heat resistant container (ceramic,
metal, etc.)
Water- 1.75 gallons (6.75 l)
Awl, knife, or screwdriver, or other hole
punching tool
alcohol - 1 gallon (4 l) can be whiskey,
rubbing, etc.
heat source
paper
tape
Note: Only the ratios of the amounts of ingredients are important. Thus, for
twice as much, double all quantities.
Procedure
———
1. Punch holes in bottom of bucket. Spread one piece of cloth over holes
inside bucket.
2. Place wood ashes on cloth and spread to make a layer about the thickness of
the cloth.
Place second piece of cloth on top of ashes.
3. Place dirt in bucket.
4. Place bucket over shallow container. Bucket may be supported on sticks if
necessary.
5. Boil water and pour it over earth in bucket a little at a time. Allow
water to run through
holes in bucket into shallow container. Be sure water
goes through all the earth. Allow
drained liquid to cool and settle for 1
to 2 hours.
Note: Do not pour all the water at once, as this may cause stoppage.
6. Carefully drain off liquid into heat resistant container. Discard any
sludge remaining in
bottom of the shallow container.
7. Boil mixture over hot fire for at least 2 hours. Small grains of salt will
begin to appear
in the solution. Scoop these out as they form, using any
type of improvised strainer (paper,
etc)
8. When liquid has boilded down to approx. half its original volume, remove
from fire and let
sit. After half an hour, add an equal volume of alcohol.
When mixture is poured through paper,
small white crystals will collect on
top of it.
9. To purify the potassium nitrate, re-dissolve the dry crystals in the
smallest possible
amount of boiled water. Remove any salt crystals that
appear (step 7); pour through an
improvised filter made of several pieces
of paper and evaporate of gently heat the
concentrated solution to dryness.
10. Spread crystals on plat surface and allow to dry. The crystals are now
ready to use.
Improvised Black Powder Sec. I, No. 3
Black powder can be prepared in a simple, safe manner. It may be used as
blasting or gun powder.
Materials Sources
——— ——-
Potassium nitrate, granulated 3 cups (.75 l)
see Sec. I, No. 2)
Wood charcoal, powdered, 2 cups (.5 l)
Sulfur, powdered, .5 cup (1/8 l)
Alcohol, 5 pints (2.5 l) whiskey, rubbing, etc.
water 3 cups, (.75 l)
heat source
2 buckets- each 2 gallon (7.5 l) cap., one of
which must be heat resistant (metal, ceramic)
Flat window screen 1 foot square
large wooden stick
cloth, 2 ft. sq.
Procedure
———
1. Place alcohol in one of the buckets.
2. Place potassium nitrate, charcoal, and sulfur in the heat resistant bucket.
Add 1 cups
water and mix thoroughly with wooden stick until all ingredients
are dissolved.
3. Add remaining water (2 cups) to mixture. Place bucket on heat source and
stir until small
bubbles begin to form.
Note: Do NOT boil mixture. Be sure all mixture stays wet. If any is dry, as on sides of pan, it
maignite.
4. Remove bucket from heat and pour mixture into alcohol while stirring
vigorously.
5. Let alcohol mixture stand about 5 minutes. Strain mixture through cloth to
obtain black
powder. Discard liquid. Wrap cloth around black powder and
squeeze to remove all excess
liquid.
6. Place screening over dry bucket. Place workable amount of damp powder on
screen and
granulate by rubbing solid through screen.
Note: If granulated particles appear to stick together and change shape,
recombine entire batch of powder and repeat steps 5 and 6.
7. Spread granulated powder on flat dry surface so that layer about .5" (1.25
cm) is
formed. Allow to dry. Use radiator, or direct sunlight. This
should be dried as soon as
possible, preferably in one hour. The longer
the drying period, the less effective the black
powder.
Note: Remove from here as soon as granules are dry. Black powder is now ready
for use.
Nitric Acid Sec. I, No. 4
Nitric acid is used in the preparation of many explosives, incendiary mixtures
and acid delay timers. It may be prepared by distilling a mixture of potassium
nitrate and concentrated sulfuric acid.
Materials Sources
——— ——-
Potassium nitrate (2 parts by volume) Drug store, improvised, (Sec. I
No. 2)
Concentrated sulfuric acid (1 part by vol) motor vehicle batteries,
industrial plants
2 bottles or ceramic jugs (narrow necks
preferable)
pot or frying pan
Heat source
Tape (paper, electrical, not cellophane)
Paper or rags
Note: If sulfuric acid is obtained from motor vehicles, it must be concentrated
by boiling until white fumes appear. Do NOT inhale fumes. Also, the amount of
nitric acid produced is the same as the amount of potassium nitrate used, so
for 2 tablespoons of nitric acid, use 2 tablespoons potassium nitrate and 1
tablespoon sulfuric acid.
Procedure
———
1. Place dry potassium nitrate in bottle or jug. Add sulfuric acid. Do not
fill more than 1/4
full Mix until a paste is formed.
Note: Treat sulfuric acid like any other acid, wash affected skin with water,
and dont inhale the fucking fumes.
2. Wrap paper or rags around necks of 2 bottles. Securly tape necks of
bottles together. Be
sure bottles are flush against each other and that
there are no air spaces.
3. Support bottles on rocks or cans so that empty bottle is slightly lower
than bottle
sontaining paste so that nitric acid is formed in receiving
bottle will not run into other
bottle.
4. Build fire in pot or frying pan.
5. Gently heat bottle containing mixture by moving fire in and out. As
red fumes begin to
appear periodically pour cold water over empty receiving
bottle. Nitric acid will begin to
form in the receiving bottle.
Note: Do not overheat or wet bottle containing mixture or it may shatter. As
an added protection, place bottle to be hated in a heat resistant container
filled with sand or gravel. Hear this outer container to produce nitric acid.
6. Continue the above process until no more red fumes are formed. If the
nitric acid formed in
the receiving bottle is not clear (cloudy) pour it
into cleaned bottle and repeat steps
2-6.
Note: Do not inhale fumes, and nitric acid should be stored in a sealed glass
or ceramic container.
Initiator for dust explosions Sec I, No. 5
An initiator which will initiate common material to produce dust explosions can
be rapidly and easily constructed. This type of charge is ideal for the
destruction of enclosed areas such as rooms or buildings.
Materials Sources
——— ——-
a flat can, 3 in. (8 cm) in diameter and
1-1.5 in. (3-3.75 cm) in height. A 6.5 oz.
Tuna can serves the purpose quite well
blasting cap
explosive
aluminum (may be wire, cust sheet, flat can,
or powder)
large nail, 4 in. (10 cm) long
wooden rod, .25 in. (6 mm) in diameter
flour, gasoline, and powder or chipped aluminum
Note: Plastic explosives (comp. C4, etc.) produce larger explosions that cast
explosives (comp. B, etc).
Procedure
———
1. Using the nail, press a hole through the side of the Tuna can 3/8 to 1/2
in. (1-1.5 cm)
from the bottom. Using a rotating a lever action, enlarge
the hole until it will accomodate
the blasting cap.
2. Place the wodden rod in the hole and position the end of the rod at the
center of the
can.
3. Press explosive into the can, being sure to surround the rod, until it is
3/4 in. (2 cm)
from top of the can. Carefully remove the wooden rod.
4. Place the aliminum metal on top of the explosive.
5. Just before use, insert the blasting cap into the cavity made by the
rod. The initiator is
now ready for use.
Note: If it is desired to carry the initiator some distance, cardboard may be
pressed on top of the aluminum to insure against loss of material.
How to Use
———-
This particular unit works quite well to initiate charges of five pounds of
flour, 1/2 gallon (1 2/3 l) of gasoline or two pounds of flake painters
aluminum. The solid materials may merely be contained in sacks or cardboard
cartons. The gasoline may be placed in plastic coated paper milk cartons,
plastic or glass bottles. The charges are placed directly on top of the
initiator and the blasting cap is actuated electrically or by fuse depending on
the type of cap used. This will destroy a 2,000 cubic feet enclosure (building
10×20x10 feet)
Note: For larger enclosures, use proportionally larger initiators ad charges.
_______________________
| |
| flour, gas, etc. |
|_______________________|
|_______| <- aluminum flake top layer
| |
| _-_-_|
<- explosive here (surrounding cap)
|____^__|\\
^ \\
cap \\ <- wires to cap
Fertilizer Explosive Sec. I, No. 6
An explosive munition can be made from fertilizer grade ammonium nitrate and
either fuel oil or a mixture of equal parts of motor oil and gasoline. When
properly prepared, this explosive can be detonated with a blasting cap.
Materials Sources
——— ——-
Ammonium nitrate (not less than 32% nitrogen) farm, feed stores
Fuel oil or gasoline and motor oil (1:1) cars, trucks
Two flat boards, One which can be
comfortably held in the hand, i.e., 2"x4",
and 36"x36"
Bucket or other container for mixing items
Iron or steel pipe or bottle, tin can or heavy
walled cardboard tube
blasting cap
wooden rod, 1/4" in. diameter
spoon or similar measuring container
Procedure
———
1. Spread a hadful of the ammonium nitrate (an) on the large flat board and
rub vigorously
with the other board until the large particles are crushed
into a very fine powder that looks
like flour (approx. 10 min. per handful)
Note: Continue with step 2 as soon as possible, since the powder may take
moisture from the air and become spoiled.
2. Mix on measure (cup, tablespoon, etc) of fuel oil with 16 measures of the
finely ground AN
in a dry bucket or other suitable container and stir with
the wooden rod. If fuel oil is not
available, use one half measure of
motor oil. Store in a waterproof container until ready to
use.
3. Spoon this mixture into an iron or steel pipe which has and end cap
threaded on one end.
If a pipe is not available, you may use a dry tin
can, a glass jar or a heavy-walled
cardboard tube.
Note: Take care not to tamp or shake the mixture in the pipe. If mixture
becomes tightly packed, one cap will not be sufficient to initiate the
explosive.
4. Insert blasting cap just beneath the surface of the explosive mix.
Note: Confining the open end of the container will add to the effectiveness of
the explosive.
Carbon Tet Explosive Sec. I, No. 7
A moist explosive can be made from fine aluminum powder combined with carbon
tetrachloride or tetrachloroethylene. This explosive can be detonated with a
blasting cap.
Materials Sources
——— ——-
Fine aluminum bronzing powder paint and artists supplies
Carbon tetrachloride Pharmacy, or fire extingusher
or liquid
tetrachloroethylene dry cleaners
stirring rod (wood)
Mixing container
Measuring container
storage container with lid
blasting cap
pipe, can or jar
Procedure
———
1. Measure out two parts aluminum powder to one part carbon tetrachloride or
tetrachloroethylene liquid into the mixing container, adding liquid to
powder while stirring
with the wooden rod.
2. Stir until the mixture becomes the consistency of honey syrup.
Note: Fumes from the liquid are dangerous and should not be inhaled.
3. Store explosive in a jar or similar waterproof container until ready to
use. The liquid in
the mixture evaporates quickly when not confined.
Note: Liquid will detonate in this manner for a period of 72 hours.
How to Use
———-
1. Pour this mixture into an iron or steel pipe which has an end cap threaded
on one end. If
a pipe is not available, you may use a dry tin can or a
glass jar.
2. Insert blasting cap just beneath the surface of the explosive mix.
Note: Confining the open end of the explosive will add to the effectiveness of
the explosive.
Fertilizer AN-AL Explosive Sec. I, No. 8
A dry explosive mixture can be made from ammonium nitrate fertilizer combined
with fine aluminum powder. This explosive can be detonated with a blasting
cap.
Materials Sources
——— ——-
Ammonium Nitrate fertilizer (not less than Farm and feed stores
32% nitrogen)
fine aluminum bronzing powder paint or artists supply
Measuring container
Mixing container
two flat boards (one should be comfortably
held in the had and one very large, i.e.,
2"x4" and 36"x36")
Storage container
Blasting cap
Wooden rod- .25 in. in diameter
pipe, can or jar
Procedure
———
1. Method I- low velocity explosive
A. Use measuring container to measure four parts fertilizer to one part
aluminum powder
and pour into the mixing container. (ex. 4 cups fertilizer
to 1 cup aluminum powder)
B. Mix ingredients with the wooden rod
2. Method II- high velocity explosive
A. Spread a handful at a time of AN on the large flat board and rub
vigorously with the
other board until the large particles are crushed
into a very fine powder that looks like
flour. (approx. 10 min. per
handful)
Note: Proceed with step B below as soon as possible since the powder may take
moisture from the air and become spoiled.
B. Follow steps A and B of Method I.
3. Store the explosive mixture in a waterproof container, such as a flass jar,
steel pipe,
etc., until ready to use.
How to Use
———-
Follow steps 1 and 2 of "How to Use" in section I, No. 7.
Red or White powder propellant Sec. I, No. 9
Red or White powder propellant may be prepared in a simple, safe manner. The
formulation described below will result in approx. 2.5 lbs. of powder. This is
a small arms propellant and should only be used in weapons with .5 in. inside
diameter or less, such as the match gun, or the 7.62 carbine, but not pistols.
Materials Sources
——— ——-
Heat source
2 gallon metal bucket
Measuring cup (8 oz)
Wooden spoon or rubber spatula
metal sheet or aluminum foil (at least 18 sq. in.)
flat window screen
potassium nitrate (granulated)- 2.33 cups
white sugar (granulated)- 2 cups
powdered ferric oxide (rust)- 1/8 cup
clear water- 3.5 cups
Procedure
———
1. Place the sugar, potassium nitrate (pn), and water in the bucket. Heat
with a low flame,
stirring occasionally until the sugar and PN dissolve.
2. If available, add the ferric oxide (rust) to the solution. Increase the
flame under the
mixture until it boils gently.
Note: The mixture will retain the rust coloration.
3. Stro and scrape the bucket sides occasionally until the mixture is
reduced to one quarter
its original volume, then stir continuously.
4. As the water evaporates, the mixture will become thicker until it reaches
the consistency
of cooked breakfast cereal (yum!) or homemade fudge. At
this stage of thickness, remove the
bucket from the hear source and spread
the mass on the metal sheet.
5. While the material cools, score it with the spoon or spatula in
crisscrossedfurrows about
1 inch apart.
6. Allow the material to air dry, preferably in the sun. As it dries, rescore
it occasionally
(about every 20 minutes) to aid drying.
7. When the material has dried to a point to where it is moist and soft
but not sticky to the
touch, place a small spoonful on the screen. Rub
the aterial back and forth against the screen
mesh with a spoon or other
flat object until the material is granulated into small worm-like
particles.
8. After granulation, return the material to the sun to dry completely.
Nitric Acid/nitrobenzene ("Hellhoffite") explosive Sec. I, No. 10
An explosive munition can be made from mononitrobenzene and nitric acid. It is
a simple explosive to prepare. Just pour the nitrobenzene into the acid and
stir.
Materials Sources
——— ——-
Nitric acid Field grade or 90% concentrated
(specific gravity of 1.48)
Mononitrobenzene (nitrobenzene) drug store (oil of mirbane) or
chemical supply house
Acid resistant measuring containers Glass, clay, etc.
Acid resistant stirring rod (glass, etc)
Blasting cap
Wax
steel pipe, end cap, tape
bottle or jar
Note: Prepare this mixture just before use.
Procedure
———
1. Add 1 volume (cup, quart, etc) of mononitrobenzene to two volumes nitric
acid in a bottle
or jar.
2. Mix ingredients well by stirring with acid resistant rod.
Note: Nitric acid will burn skin and destroy clothing. If any is spilled, wash
well with water. Don’t inhale the fumes!
How to Use
———-
1. Wax blasting cap, pipe and end cap.
2. Thread end cap onto pipe.
3. Pour mixture into pipe.
4. Insert and tape blasting cap just beneath surface of mixture.
Note: Confining the open end will increase effectiveness of the weapon.
Optimized Process for Cellulose/Acid Exposive Sec. I, No. 11
An acid type explosive can be made from nitric acid and white paper or cotton
cloth. This explosive can be detonated with a commercial #8 cap or any
military blasting cap.
Materials Sources
——— ——-
Nitric acid Industrial metal processors,
90% concentrated (1.48 grvty.)
Field grade,
(sec. I, No. 4)
white unprinted, unsized paper paper towels, napkins
clean white cotton cloth clothing, sheets, better kmarts
Acid resistant container wax coated pipe or can, ceramic
pipe, glass jar, etc.
Aluminum foil or acid resistant material food stores
protective gloves
blasting cap
wax
Procedure
———
1. Put on gloves.
2. Spread out a layer of paper or cloth on aluminum foil and sprinkle with
nitric acid until
thoroughly soaked. If aluminum foil is unavailable, use
an acid resistant material (glass,
ceramic, etc)
Note: Use same warning again for handling acid.
3. Place another layer of paper or cloth on top of the acid-soaked sheet and
repeat step 2
above. Repeat as often as necessary.
4. Roll up the aluminum foil containing the acid-soaked sheets and insert the
roll into the
acid resistant container.
Note: If glass or ceramic tray is used, pick up with two wooden sticks and load
into container.
5. Wax blasting cap.
6. Insert the blasting cap in the center of the rolled sheets. Allow 5 min.
before detonating
the explosive.
Methyl Nitrate Dynamite Sec. I, No. 12
A moist explosive mixture can be made from sulfuric acid, nitric acid and
methyl alcohol. This explosive can be detonated with a blasting cap.
Materials Source
——— ——
Sulfuric Acid Clear battery acid boiled
until white fumes appear
Nitric Acid Field grade, (sec. I, No. 4),
sp. gravity of 1.48
Methyl alcohol methanol, wood alcohol, non-
permanant antifreeze
eyedropper or styring with glass tube
large diameter glass (2 qt.) jar
Narrow glass jars (1 qt.)
Absorbent (fine sawdust, shredded paper,
shredded cloth)
cup
pan (3-5 gallon)
teaspoon
wooden stick
steel pipe with end cap
blasting cap
water
tray
Procedure
———
1. Add 24 teaspoons of sulfuric acid to 16.5 teaspoons of nitric acid in the
2 qt. jar.
2. Place the jar in the pan (3-5 gallon) filled with cold water or in a stream
and allow to
cool.
3. Rapidly swirl the jar to create a whirlpool in the liquid (without
splashing) while
keeping the bottom portion of the jar in the water.
4. While continually swirling, add to mixture, .5 teaspoon at a time, 13.5
teaspoons of methyl
alcohol, allowing the mixture to cool at least one
minute between additions.
DANGER! PELIGRO!- If there is a sudden increase in the amount of fumes produced
of if the solution turns much darker or begins to froth, dump the solution in
the water within 10 seconds! This will help lengthen your life, and prevent an
accident.
5. After the final addition of methyl alcohol, swirl for another 35-40
seconds.
6. Carefully pour the solution into one of the narrow glass jars. Allow jar
to stand in water
for approx. 5 minutes until two layers separate.
7. With an eyedropper or styringe, remove top layer and CAREFULLY put into
another narrow
glass jar. This liquid is the explosve.
Note: Thought I should tell you, this is shock sensitive. (very)
8. Add an equal quantity of water to the explosive and swirl. Allow mixture
to separate again
as in step 6. The explosive is now the bottom layer.
9. Carefully remove the top layer with the eyedropper or styringe and
discard.
10. Place one firmly packed cup of absorbent in the tray.
11. While stirring with the wooden stick, slowly add explosive until the mass
is very damp but
not wet enough to drip. Explosive is ready to use.
Note: If it gets too wet, add more absorbent. If storage is required, store in
a sealed container to prevent evaporation. Do not allow this to touch the
skin. If it does, flush with large quantities of water. Keep grit, dirt, and
sand out of the mix.
How to Use
———-
1. Spoon this mixture into an iron or steel pipe which has an end cap
threaded on one end. If
a pipe is not available, you may use a dry tin
can or a glass jar.
2. Insert blasting cap just beneath the surfacr of the explosive mix.
Note: Confining the other end will add to the effectivenessof the explosive.
Urea nitrate explosive Sec I, No. 13
Urea nitrate can be used as an explosive munition. It is easy to prepare from
nitric acid and urine. It can be detonated with a blasting cap.
Materials Source
——— ——
Nitric acid, (90%, 1.48 sp. gravity) Field grade (sec. I, No. 4)
Urine Animals, yes, humans too
2 one gallon heat and acid resistant
containers (pyrex, ceramic)
Filtering material paper towel, fine cotton
Aluminum powder (optional) paint stores
heat source
measuring containers (cup and spoon)
water
tape
blasting cap
steel pipe and cap<s>
Note: Prepare mixture just before use.
Procedure
———
1. Boil a large quantity of urine (10 cups) to approx. 1/10 its volume (1 cup)
in one of the
containers over the heat source.
2. Filter the urine into the other container through the filtering material to
remove
impurities. Use tape to secure filter onto jar.
3. Slowly add 1/3 cup of nitric acid to the filtered urine, let stand for 1
hour.
4. Filter mixture as in step 2. Urea nitrate crystals will collect on the
paper.
5. Wash the urea nitrate by pouring water over it.
6. Remove urea nitrate crystals from the filtering and allow to dry
thoroughly (approx. 16
hours)
Note: Drying time can be reduced to two hours if a hot (not boiling) water bath
is used. See
step 5 of Sec I, No. 15.
How to Use
———-
1. Spoon urea nitrate crystals into an iron or steel pipe which has an end
cap screwed on one
end.
2. Insert blasting cap just beneath the surface of the urea nitrate crystals.
Note: This explosive can be made more effective by mixing with aluminum
powder (from paint
stores) in the ratio of 4:1. One cup aluminum powder
to four cups urea nitrate. Capping the
other end will add to the
effectiveness of the explosive.
Preparation of Copper Sulfate (Pentahydrate) Sec. I, No. 14
Copper sulfate is a required material for the preparation of TACC. See section
I, No. 16)
Materials Sources
——— ——-
Pieces of copper or copper wire circuit boards, electronic
stores
Dilute sulfuric acid (battery acid)
Potassium nitrate (Sec. I, No. 2) or
Nitric Acid, (90%, 1.48 gr.)(Sec. I, No. 4)
Alcohol
water
two 1 pint jars or glasses, heat resistant
paper towels
pan
wooden stick or rod
improvised scale
cup
container
heat source
teaspoon
Procedure
———
1. Place 10 grams of copper pieces into one of the pint jars. Add 1 cup
(240 ml) of dilute
sulfuric acid to the copper.
2. Add 12 grams of potassium nitrate or 1.5 teaspoons of nitric acid to the
mixture.
Note: Nitric Acid gives a product of greater purity.
3. Heat the mixture in a pan of simmering hot water hath until the bubbling
has ceased
(approx. 2 hours). The mixture will turn to a blue color.
4. Pour the hot blue solution, but not the copper, into the other pint jar.
Allow solution to
cool at room temperature. Discard the unreacted copper
pieces in the first jar.
5. Carefully pour away the liquid from the crystals. Crush crystals into a
powder with a
wooden rod or stick.
6. Add .5 cup (120 ml) of alcohol to the powder while stirring.
7. Filter the solution through a paper towel into a container to collect
the crystals. Wash
the crystals left on the paper towel three times, using
.5 cup (120 ml) portions of alcohol
each time.
8. Air dry the copper sulfate crystals for 2 hours.
Note: Drying time can be reduced to .5 hour by use of hot, not boiling, water
bath (see step
3).
Reclamation of RDX from C4 Sec. I, No. 15
Rdx can be obtained from C4 explosive with the sue of gasoline. It can be used
as a booster explosive for detonators (Sec. VI, No. 13) or as a high explosive
charge.
Materials Sources
——— ——-
Gasoline
C4 plastique
2 pint glass jars, wide mouth
water ——–|
|
ceramic or glass dish |
|
pan | optional, it may be air
| dried
heat source |
|
teaspoon |
|
cup |
|
tape ——–|
Procedure
———
1. Place 1.5 teaspoons (15 grams) of C4 in one of the pint jars. Add one cup
(240 ml) of
gasoline.
Note: These quantities can be increased to obtain more RDX. For example, use 2
gallons of gasoline per 1 cup of C4.
2. Knead and stir the C4 with the rod until the C4 has broken down into small
particles. Allow
mixture to stand for .5 hour.
3. Stir the mixture again until a fine white powder remains on the bottom of
the jar.
4. Filter the mixture through a paper towel into the other glass jar. Wash
the particles
collected on the paper twoel with .5 cup (120 ml) of
gasoline. Discard the waste liquid.
5. Place the RDX particles in a glass or ceramic disk. Set the dish in a
pan of hot water, not
boiling, and dry for a period of 1 hour.
Note: RDX can be air dried for 2 to 3 hours.
TACC (Tetramminecopper (II) Chlorate Sec. I, No. 16
TACC is a primary explosive that can be made from sodium chlorate, copper
sulfate and ammonia. This eplosive is to be used with a booster explosive such
as picric acid (Sec. I, No. 21) or RDX (Sec. I, No. 15) in the fabrication of
detonators (Sec. VI, No. 13).
Materials Sources
——— ——-
Sodium Chlorate Sec. I, No. 23, medicine
Copper sulfate Weed killer, hardware store,
Sec. I, No. 14
Ammonia hydroxide household ammonia, smelling
salts, water purifier
alcohol, 95%
wax, clay, pitch, etc.
water
bottle, narrow mouth (wine or coke)
bottles, wide mouth (mason jars)
tubing (copper, steel) to fit around
mouth bottle
teaspoon
improvised scale Sec, VII, No. 8
heat source
paper towel
pan
tape
cup
Procedure
———
1. Measure 1/3 teaspoon (2.5 grams) of sodium chlorate into a wide mouth
bottle. Add 10
teaspoons alcohol.
2. Place the wide mouth bottle in a pan of hot water. Add 1 teaspoon (4 g)
of copper sulfate
to the mixture. Heat for a period of 30 minutes just
under the boiling point and stir
occasionally.
Note: Keep away from flame. Keep volume constant by adding additional alcohol
approx. every 10 minutes.
3. Remove solution from pan and allow to cool. Color of solution will change
from a blue to a
light green. Filter solution through a paper towel into
another wide mouth bottle. Store until
ready for step 6.
4. Add 1 cup (250 Ml) of ammonia to the narrow mouth bottle.
5. Place tubing into neck of bottle so that it extends about 1.5 in (4 cm)
inside bottle.
Seal tubing to bottle with wax, clay, pitch, etc.
6. Place free end of tubing into the chlorate-alcohol-sulfate solution
(step 3). Heat bottle
containing ammonia in a pan of hot, but not boiling
water, for approx. 10 minutes.
7. Bubble ammonia gas through the chlorate-alcohol-sulfate solution approx. 10
minutes, until
the color changes from light gree to dark blue. COntinue
bubbling for another 10 minutes.
Note: Mixture is now primary explosive, keep from flame.
8. Remove the solution from the pan and reduce the volume to about 1/3 of its
original volume
by evaporating in the open air or ina stream of air.
Note: Pour container into a flat container for faster evaporation.
9. Filter the solution through a paper towel into a wide mouth bottle to
collect crystals.
Wash crystals with 1 teaspoon of alcohol and set aside
to dry (approx. 16 hours) Drying time
can be reduced to 2 hours if a hot,
not boiling, water bath is used.
Note: Explosive is shock and flame sensitive. Store in a capped container.
HMTD Sec I, No. 17
HMTF is a primary explosive that can be made from hexamethylenetetramine,
hydrogen peroxide, and citric acid. This explosive is to be used with a
boosterr explosive such as picric acid (Sec I, No. 21) or RDX (Sec. I, No. 15)
in the fabrication of detonators (Sec VI, No. 13).
Materials Sources
——— ——-
Hexamethylenetetramine Drugstore under names of
urotropine, hexamine,
methenamine,
etc.
Army heat tablets (sterno?)
Hydrogen Peroxide 6% hair bleach or stronger
Citric Acid Drug or Food stores,
known as "sour salt"
Containers, bottles or glasses
paper towels
teaspoon
pan
water
tape
Procedure
———
1. Measure 9 teaspoons of hydrogen peroxide into a container
2. In 3 portions, dissolve 2.5 teaspoons of crushed hexamethylenetetramine
(hexa) in the
peroxide.
3. Keep the solution cool for 30 minutes by placing container in a pan of
cold water.
4. In 5 portions, dissolve 4.5 teaspoons of crushed citric acid in the hexa-
peroxide
solution.
5. Permite solution to stand at room temperatire until solid particles for at
the bottom of
the container.
Note: Complete precipitation will take place in 8-24 hours
6. Filter the mixture through a paper towel into a container to collect the
solid
particles.
7. Wash the solid particles collected in the paper towel with 6 teaspoons
of water by pouring
the water over them. Discard the liquid in the
container.
8. Place these explosives in a container and allow to dry.
Note: Handle dry explosive with great care. Do not scrape or handle it
roughly. Keep from open
sparks or flames. Store in a cool, dry place.
Potassium or Sodium Nitrite and Litharge (lead monoxide) Sec. I, No. 18
Potassium or sodium nitrate is needed to prepare DDNP (Sec. I, No. 19) and
litharge is required for the preparation of lead picrate (Sec. I, No. 20)
Materials Sources
——— ——-
Lead metal (small pieces or chips) Plumbing supply
Potassium or sodium nitrite Field grade (Sec. I, No. 2) or
drug store
Methyl (wood) alcohol
Iron pipe with end cap
Iron rod or screwdriver
Paper towels
2 glass jars, wide mouth
metal pan
heat source (hot coals or blow torch)
improvised scale (Sec VII, No. 
cup
water
pan
Procedure
———
1. Mix 12 grams of lead and 4 grams of potassium or sodium nitrite in a jar.
Place the mixture
in the iron pipe.
2. Heat iron pipe in a bed of hot coals or with a blow torch for 30 minutes
to one hour.
(mixture will turn yellow)
3. Remove the iron pipe from the heat source and allow to cool. Chip out the
yellow material
formed in the iron pipe and place the chips in the glass
jar.
4. Add .5 cup (120 ml) of methyl alcohol to the chips.
5. Heat the glass jar containing the mixture in a hot water bath for approx.
2 minutes. Heat
until there is a noticeable reaction between chips and
alcohol; solution will turn darker.
6. Filter themixture through a paper towel into the other glass jar. The
material left of the
paper towel is lead monoxide.
7. Remove the lead monoxide and wash it twice through a paper towel using
.5 cup of hot water
each time. Air dry before using.
8. Place the jar with the liquid (step 6) in a hot water bath (as in step 5)
and heat until
the alcohol is evaporated. The powder remaining in the jar
after evaporation is potassium or
sodium nitrite.
Note: Nitrite has a strong tendency to absorb water from the atmosphere and
should be stored
in a closed container.
DDNP Sec. I, No. 19
DDNP is a primary explosive used in the fabrication of detonators (Sec. I, No.
13). It is to be used with a booster explosive such as picric acid (Sec. I,
No. 21) or RDX (Sec. I, No. 15).
Materials Sources
——— ——-
Picric acid Sec. I, No. 21
Flowers of sulfur drug store
lye (sodium hydroxide) Red devil(tm) sink unstopper
sulfuric acid, diluted motor vehicle batteries
Potassium or sodium nitrite Sec. I, No. 18
Water
2 glass cups, pyrex
stirring rod (glass or wood)
Improvised scale Sec VII, No. 8
teaspoon
tablespoon
eyedropper
heat source
containers
tape
Procedure
———
1. In one of the glass cups, mix .5 gram of lye with 2 tablespoons (30ml) of
warm water.
2. Dissolve 1 teaspoon (3 grams) of picric acid in the water-lye mixture.
Store until ready
for step 5.
3. Place .25 teaspoon (1ml) of water in the other glass cup. Add .5 teaspoon
(2.5 grams) of
sulfur and 1/3 teaspoon (2.5 g) of lye to the water.
4. Boil solution over heat source until color turns dark red. Remove and
allow solution to
cool.
5. In three portions, add this sulfur-lye solution to the picric acid-lye
solution (step 2);
stir while pouring. Allow mixture to cool.
6. Filter the mixture through a paper towel into a container. Small red
particles will
collect on the paper. Discard the liquid in the container.
7. Dissolve the red particles in .25 cup (60 ml) of boiling water.
8. Remove and filter the mixture through a paper towel, as in step 6.
Discard the particles
left on the paper.
9. Using an eyedropper, slowly add the sulfuric acid to the filtered solution
until it turns
orange-brown.
10. Add .5 teaspoon (2.5 g) more sulfuric acid to the solution. Allow the
solution to cool to
room temperature.
11. In a separate container, dissolve .25 teapsoon (1.8 g) of potassium or
sodium nitrite in
1/3 cup (80 ml) of water.
12. Add this solution in one portion, while stirring, to the orange-brown
solution. Allow the
mixture to stand for 10 minutes. The mixture will
turn light brown.
Note: Mixture is now primary explosive. Keep from sparks and flames.
13. Filter the mixture through a paper towel. Wash the particles left on the
paper with 4
teaspoons (20 ml) of water.
14. Allow paricles to dry, approx. 16 hours. Drying time can be reduced to
two hours if a hot
(not boiling) water bath is used. See Sec. I, No. 16.
Note: Explosive is flame and shock sensitive. Store in a capped container.
Preparation of lead picrate Sec. I, No. 20
Lead picrate is used as a primary explosive in the fabrication of detonators
(Sec. VI, No. 13). It is to be used with a booster exlosive such as picric
acid (Sec. I, No. 21) or RDX (Sec. I, NO. 15).
Materials Sources
——— ——-
Litharge (lead monoxide) Sec. I, No. 18 or plumbing
store
Picric acid Sec. I, No. 21
Wood alcohol (methanol) Paint remove, some antifreezes
wooden or plastic rod
dish or saucer (china or glass)
teaspoon
improvised scale Sec. VII, No. 8
containers
Flat pan
Heat source (Optional)
Water (optional)
Procedure
———
1. Weigh 2 grams each of picric acid and lead monoxide. Place each in a
separate
container.
2. Place 2 teaspoons (10 ml) of the alcohol in a dish. Add the picric acid
to the alcohol and
stir with the wooden or plastic rod.
3. Add the lead monoxide to the mixture while stirring.
Note: Mixture is now primary explosive, keep from spark or flame.
4. Continue stirring the mixture until the alcohol has evaporated. The
mixture will suddenly
thicken.
5. Stir mixture occasionally (to stop lumps from forming) until a powder is
formed. A few
lumps will remain.
Note: Be very careful of dry material forming one the inside of the container.
6. Spread this powdered mixture, the lead picrate, in a flat pan to air dry.
Note: If possible, dry the mixture in a hot, not boiling, water bath for a
period of two hours.
Preparation of Picric Acid from asprin Sec. I, No. 21
Picric acid can be used as a booster explosive in detonators (Sec. VI, No. 13),
a high explosive charge, or as an intermediate to preparing lead picrate (Sec.
I, No. 20) or DDNP (Sec. I, No. 19)
Materials Sources
——— ——-
Aspirin tablets (5 grains per tablet) drugstore, kmart
alcohol, 95% pure
Sulfuric acid, concentrated (boil until
white fumes appear)
potassium nitrate (Sec. I, No. 2)
Water
paper towels
cleaning jar, 1 pint
rod (glass or wood)
glass containers
ceramic or glass dish
cup
teaspoon
tablespoon
pan
heat source
tape
Procedure
———
1. Crush 20 aspirin tablets in a glass container. Add 1 teaspoon of water
and work into a
paste.
2. Add approx. 1/3 to 1/2 cup of alcohol (100 ml) to the aspirin paste; stir
while pouring.
3. Filter the alcohol-aspirin solution through a paper towel into another
glass container.
Discard the solid left on the paper towel.
4. Pour the filtered solution into a ceramic or glass dish.
5. Evaporate the alcohol and water from the solution by placing the dish into
a pan of hot
water. White powder will remain in the dish after
evaporation.
Note: Water in pan should be at hot bath temperature, not boiling, approx. 160
degrees to 180 degrees F. It should not burn the hands.
6. Pour 1/3 cup (80 ml) of concentrated sulfuric acid into a canning jar. Add
the white powder
to the sulfuric acid.
7. Heat canning jar of sulfuric acid in a pan of simmering hot water bath for
15 minutes; then
remove jar from the bath. Solution will turn to a
yellow-orange color.
8. Add 3 level teaspoons (15 g) of potassium nitrate in three portions to the
yellow-orange
solution; stir vigorously during additions. Solution will
turn red, then back to a
yellow-orange color.
9. Allow the solution to cool to ambient or room temperature while stirring
occasionally.
10. Slowly pour the solution, while stirring, into 1.25 cup (300 ml) of cold
water and allow
to cool.
11. Filter the solution through a paper towel into a glass container. Light
yellow particles
will collect on the paper towel.
12. Wash the light yellow particles with 2 tablespoons (25 ml) of water.
Discard the waste
liquid in the container.
13. Place particles in ceramic dish and set in a hot water bath, as it step 5,
for 2 hours.
Double Salts Sec. I, No. 22
Double salts is used as a primary explosive in the fabrication of detonators
(Sec. VI, No. 13). It can be made in the field from silver (coins), nitric
acid, calcium carbide, and water.
Materials Sources
——— ——-
Nitric acid (90%) Sec. I, No. 4
Silver metal (silver coin, 5/8 in. in diameter)
Calcium carbide (acetylele or calcium carbide
lamps)
rubber and glass tubing (approx. 1/4 in. inside
diameter)
paper towels
heat resistant bottles or ceramic jugs, 1 to 2 qt.
capacity, and one cork to fit. (Punch hole in cork
to fir tubing)
teaspoon *aluminum, stainless steel or wax-coated)
or equivalent measure
glass container
heat source
long narrow jar (olive jar)
tape
water
alcohol
Procedure
———
1. Dilute 2/25 teaspoons of nitric acid with 1.5 teaspoons of water in a
glass container by
adding the acid to the water.
2. Dissolve a silver coin (a silver dime) in the diluted nitric acid. The
solution will turn
to a green color.
Note: It may be necessary to warm the container to completely dissolve the
silver coin. Take the usual precautions when working with acid!
3. Pour solution into a long narrow (olive) jar and place it in a bottle of
hot water.
Crystals will form in the solution; heat until crystals
dissolve.
4. While still heating and after crystals have dissolved, place 10 teaspoons
of calcium
carbide in another glass bottle and add 1 teaspoon of water.
After the reaction has started
add another teaspoon of water. Then set
up as shown.
—————————————————- <- rubber
//————————————————–\\ tubing
glass ||<-tubing continues
into jar (olive) ||
tubing>>||___ __||__
| | | | | || |<-cork
| |olive | | ______|| || ||______
| | jar | | | || |
| | w/ | | | || |
| |silver| | | || |
| | mix _______|____ acetylene bubbles glass tubing>|| |
| | / | | | || |
| |______| <-water here (hot) | || |
|__________________| |calcium carbide & |
| water |
Heat source here
|____________________|
5. Bubble acetylene through the solution for 5 to 8 minutes. A brown vapor
will be given off
and white flakes will appear in the silver solution.
6. Remove the solver solution from the heat source and allow it to cool.
Filter the solution
through a paper towel into a glass container. Green
crystals will collect on the paper.
7. Wash the solids collected on the paper towel with 12 teaspoons of alcohol.
The solid
material will turn white while the solvent in the container
will have a green color.
8. Place the white solid material on a clean paper towel to air dry.
Note: Handle dry explosive with great care. Do not scrape or handle it
roughly. Keep from sparks or flame. Store in a cool, dry place.
Sodium Chlorate Sec. I, No. 23
Sodium chlorate is a strong oxidizer used in the manufacture of explosives. it
can be used in place of potassium chlorate (see Sec. I, No. I).
Materials Sources
——— ——-
2 carbon or lead rods (1 in. diameter x dry cell batteries (2.5 in.
5 in. long) diameter x 7 in. long) or
plumbing supply store
salt, or ocean water grocery store or ocean
sulfuric acid, diluted motor vehicle batteries
motor vehicle
water
2 wires, 16 gauge (3/64 in. diameter approx.)
6 ft. long, insulated
gasoline
1 gallon glass jar, wide mouth (5 in. diameter x
6 in. high, approx.)
sticks
string
teaspoon
trays
cup
heavy cloth
knife
large flat pan or tray
Procedure
———
1. Mix .5 cup of salt into the one gallon glass jar with 3 liters (3 qts) of
water.
2. Add 2 teaspoons of battery acid to the solution and stir vigorously for 5
minutes.
3. Strip back about 4 in. of insulation from both end of the two wires.
4. With knife and sticks shape 2 strips of wood 1 x 1/8 x 1.5. Tie the wood
strips to the lead
or carbon rods so that they are 1.5 inches apart.
___________ ___________
| | | |
|\ | | /|
| \ | | / |
|
\–|==========================|–/ |
| /–|==========================|–\ |
| / | ^ | \
|
|/ | ^ | \|
| | ^ | |
|\ | wood sticks | / |
| \ | | / |
| \
|==========================| |
| |==========================| |
| | | |
| |
<–1.5 in. apart –> | |
|_________| |_________|
5. Connect the rods to the battery in the motor vehicle with the insulated
wire.
6. Submerge 4.5 in. of the rods into the salt water solution.
7. With gear in neutral position start the vehicles engine. Depress the
accelerator approx.
1/5 of its full travel.
8. Run the engine with the accelerator in this postition for 2 hours; then;
shut it down for 2
hours.
9. Repeat this cycle for a total of 64 hours while maintaining the level of
the acid-salt
water solution in the glass jar.
Note: This arrangement employs voltages which may be dangerous to personnel.
Do not touch the bare wire leads while the engine is running.
10. Shut off the engine. Remove the rods from the glass jar and disconnect
wire leads from
the battery.
11. Filter the solution through the heavy cloth into a flat pan or tray,
leaving the sediment
at the bottom of the glass jar.
12. Allow the water in the filtered solution to evaporate at room temperature
(approx. 16
hours). The residuew is approx 60% or more sodium chlorate
which is pure enough to be used as
an explosive ingredient.
Mercury Fulminate Sec. I, No. 24
Mercury fulminate is used as a primary explosive in the fabrication of
detonators (Sec. VI, No. 13). It is to be used with a booster explosive such
as picric acid (Sec. I, No. 21) or RDX (Sec. I, No. 15).
Materials Sources
——— ——-
Nitric Acid (90%) 1.48 gr. field grade (Sec. I, No. 4) or
industrial metal processors
mercury thermometers, old radio
tubes
ethyl (grain) alcohol (90%)
filtering material
teaspoon measure (.25, .5, and 1 teaspoon
capacity) aluminum, stainless steel, or
wax coated
heat source
clean wooden stick
clean water
glass containers
tape
styringe
Procedure
———
1. Dilute 5 teaspoons of nitric acid with 2.5 teaspoons of clean water in a
glass container by
adding the acid to the water.
2. Dissolve 1/8 teaspoon of mercury in the diluted nitric acid. This will
yield dark red
fumes.
Note: It may be necessary to add water, one drop at a time, to the
mercury-acid solution in order to start reaction. Also take usual precautions
when handling acid.
3. Warm 10 teaspoons of the alcohol in a container until the alcohol feels
warm to the inside
of the wrist.
4. Pour the metal-acid solution into the warm alcohol. Reaction should start
in less than 5
minutes. Dense white fumes will be given off during
reaction. As time lapses, the fumes will
become less dense. Allow 10
to 15 minutes to complete reaction. Fulminate will settle to
bottom.
Note: This reaction generates large quantities of toxic, flammable fumes. The
process must be conducted outdoors or in a well ventilated area, away from
sparks or flames. Do not inhlale fumes unless you like death.
5. Filter the solution through a paper towel into a container. Crystals may
stick to the side
of the container. If so, tilt and squirt water down the
sides of the container until all the
material collects on the filter paper.
6. Wash the crystals with 6 teaspoons of ethyl alcohol.
7. Allow these to dry.
Note: Handle dry explosives with great care. Do not scrape or handle it
roughly. Keep away from sparks or open flame. Store in a cool dry place.
Sodium Chlorate and sugar or aluminum explosive Sec. I, No. 25
An explosive munition can be made from sodium chlorate combined with granular
sugar, or aluminum powder. This explosive can be detonated with a commercial
#8 or Military J2 blasting cap.
Materials Sources
——— ——-
sodium chlorate Sec. I, No. 23
granular sugar food store
aluminum powder paint store
wooden rod or stick
bottle or jar
blasting cap
steel pipe (threaded on one end)
end cap and tape
measuring container
Procedure
———
1. Add three volumes (cups, quarts, etc) sodium chlorate to one volume
aluminum powder, or
two volumes of granular sugar, in bottle or jar.
2. Mix ingredients well by stirring with the wooden rod or stick.
How to Use
———-
1. Wax blasting cap, pipe and end cap.
2. Thread end cap onto pipe.
3. Pour munition into pipe.
4. Insert and tape blasting cap just beneath surface of mixture.
Note: Confining the open end of the pipe will add to the effectiveness of the
explosive.
Acetone/Peroxide Explosive Sec. I, No. 26
Materials Sources
——— ——-
Hydrogen Peroxide Drug store, Hair Bleach
Acetone Hardware, drup stores
Sulfuric Acid Clear battery acid boiled until
white fumes appear
Eye dropper or styringe with glass tube
Graduated cylinder (cc or ml) or other
measuring device
Thermometer (0-100 C)
Glass containers
Large pan
Ice and salt
Water
Paper towels
Procedure
———
1. Measure 30 ml of acetone and 50 ml of hydrogen peroxide into a glass
container and mix
thoroughly.
2. Cool the acetone/peroxide mixture by placing its container in a larger one
containing a
mixture of ice, salt and water.
Note: Because of the lighter inner container being buoyant in the larger outer
container, it is necessary to secure it so that it will not fall over into the
ice, salt, and water mixture.
3. Cool the acetone/peroxide mixture to 5 degrees C.
4. Add 2.5 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid to the acetone/peroxide mixture
slowly. drop by
drop, with the use of an eye dropper. Stir the mixture
during the addition of the sulfuric
acid with a thermometer, keeping the
temperature between 5-10 degrees C., stop adding the
sulfuric acid and
continue stirring until the temp. drops again to 5 degrees C., then
continue adding the sulfuric acid.
__
| |<-eye dropper w/ concentrated
sulfuric acid
|__|
\ \ | <- thermometer
| \ \ | |
| \ \ | |
| \-\ |
|
| | | | |
acetone/peroxide mix —–|-> | | |
| | | <-|—ice, salt, and
water mix.
| \——-/ | maintain 5-10 degrees C.
————————-
5. After all the sulfuric acid has been added, continue stirring the mixture
for another five
minutes.
6. Let the acetone/peroxide/sulfuric acid mixture stand in the ice/water/salt
bath or remove
the inner container and place it in an ice box for 12-24
hours.
7. After 12 hours, white crystals of acetone peroxide will precipitate out of
the once clear
solution. Precipitation should be completed after 24 hrs.
Note: At this point the mixture is a primary explosive. Keep away from shock,
friction and flame.
8. Filter the mixture through a paper twoel into a container to collect all
of the solid
particles.
9. Wash the solid particles collected in the paper towel with small amounts
of ice cold water
poured over them. Discard the liquid in the container.
10. Place these explosive crystals in a container and allow to dry.
Note: Handle the dry explosive with great care. Do not scrape or handle it
roughly. Keep away from sparks or open flame. Store in a cool, dark, dry
place.
How to Use
———-
Acetone peroxide is a powerful initiator and can be used by itself as the main
filler when making homeade detonators. Using 2.5" lengths of brass or copper
tubing with one end sealed shit with either solder or epoxy resin, begin by
partiallly filling the tube with acetone perroxide and compressing with a
loading press (Sec. VI, No. 13, Vol. 2 and Sec. II, No. 12, Vol 3). Continue
This process until the explosive is within 1/2" of the top. Cap the open end
tightly with a cork or wood stopper. When ready to use, remove stopper and
insert time fuse. Seal around fuse and tube insert into the main charge to a
depth of 2". The caps will detonate most of the explosives shown in this
volume.
Note: These detonators should be used withing 7 days of thier manufacture and
should be stored in a cool, dry place.
Bullseye (low-high) Explosive Sec. I, No. 27
A highly effective and powerful low - high explosive can be obtained by simply
using a fast burning double-based, smokeless pistol powder called Bullseye.
This propellant is used to reload pistol and revolver cartridges and contains a
sensitive mixture of nitroglycerin and nitrocellulose.
Materials Sources
——— ——-
Bullseye smokeless pistol powder Gun and reloading stores
Compound detonator or time fuse Five finger discount at many
fine National Guard bases
How to Use
———-
1. To use as a low explosive, simply pour the powder into a pipe with end caps
and ignite with
a time fuse. When ignited, the pipe will explode into many
fragments traveling at a velocity
of approximately 600 fps.
2. To use as a high explosive, simply pour the powder into a pipe with end
caps, insert a
compound detonator with a fuzing mechanism and detonate.
When detonated, the pipe will
fragment into many small fragments traveling
at a velocity in excess of 20,000 fps.
Note: Because of the unique mixture of nitroglycering with nitrocellulose
(double-base), Bullseye is one of the few propellants that can be detonated
with a blasting cap. When detonated, it is a powerful as military TNT and
should be used to defeat hard targets.
HTH/Naptha Explosive Sec. I, No. 28
An explosive munition can be made from granular calcium hypoclorite (HTH,
swimming pool bleach) and petroleum naptha. This explosive can be detonated
with a compound detonator.
Materials Sources
——— ——-
Granular calcium hypoclorite 70%, HTH Bleaching agent, swimming pool
swimming pool purifier. supply houses, better K-marts.
Benzine (petroleum naptha) Hardware and paint stores,
paint thinner, cleaning fluid.
Mixing container (bowl, bucket, etc)
Stirring rod (Wood)
Measuring container (cup, tablespoon)
Storage container (jar, can) with tight lid
Blasting cap, compound detonator required
Strong pipe with end caps
Procedure
———
1. Measure out 32 parts by volume, 27 parts by weight, of calcium hypoclorite
(CH) to 1 part
by volume, 1 part by weight, of petroleum naptha into the
mixing container.
2. Stir until thoroughly mixed with wooden stirring rod.
How to Use
———-
1. This mixture forms a low power/brisant high explosive which should be used
under strong
confinement and only as an explosive filler for antipersonnel
fragmentation bombs. To use,
spoon this mixture into an iron or steel pipe
which has an end cap on one end.
2. Insert a compound detonator just beneath the surface of the explosive and
screw the other
end cap on with a hole drilled through for the fuse.
Note: Take care not to tamp or shake the mixture in the pipe. If the mixture
becomes tightly packed, one cap will not be sufficient to detonate the
explosive. Store in tightly sealed container.
Potassium Permangante/Aluminum Explosive Sec. I, No. 29
An explosive munition can be made from potassium permanganate and aluminum
powder. This explosive can be detonated with a compound detonator.
Materials Sources
——— ——-
Potassium permanganate chemical and photography
stores
fine aluminum bronzing powder paint stores
measuring container (cup, tablespoon, etc.)
storage container with tight lid
two flat boards (one should be comfortably
held in the had such as a square block or
rolling pin and one very large, ie.,
36" x 36"
blasting cap, compound detonator required
strong pipe with end caps
Procedure
———
1. Spread a handful at a time of potassium permanganate on the large flat
board and rub
vigorously with the other flat board or rolling pic until
the large particles are crushed into
a very fine powder (approx. 10
minutes per handful)
2. Measure 2 volumes (cups, tablespooons, etc.), 60% by weight, of
potassium permanganate with
three volumes, 40% by weight, of fine
aluminum bronzing powder into a mixing container with a
tight fitting
lid.
3. Secure the lid tightly and shake the mixture for approx. five minutes
to mix thoroughly.
4. Store the explosive in the mixing container until ready to use. Before
using, shake the
contents once again to remix any settled particles.
How to Use
———-
1. This mixture forms a low power/brisant high explosive which should be used
under strong
confinement and only as an explosive filler for antipersonnel
fragmentation bombs. To use,
spoon this mixture into an iron or steel
pipe which has an end cap on one end.
2. Insert compound detonator just beneath the surface of the explosive and
screw the other end
cap on with a hole drilled through for the fuse.
Potassium Chlorate/Sulfur Explosive Sec. I, No. 30
An impact sensitive explosive can be made from potassium chlorate and sulfur.
This explosive can be used as a filler when making reusable primers (Sec. III,
No. 5, Vol. 1) or as a fill when making impact sensitive fragmentation bombs.
Materials Sources
——— ——-
Potassium chlorate Drug stores, chemical supply
houses
Sulfur Drug Stores
Measuring container
Mixing container
Two flat boards (same as No. 29)
Procedure
———
1. Spread a handful at a time of potassium chlorate on the large flat board
and rub vigorously
with the other flat board or rolling pin until the
large particles are crushed into a very
fine powder (approx. 10 minutes
per handful).
Note: Clean and dry both boards before using again with a different substance.
2. Repeat this process using the sulfur.
3. Measure 7 parts by volume, 11 parts by weight, of powdered potassium
chlorate and 1 part by
volume, 1 part by weight of powdered sulfur into the
mixing container.
Note: This mixture forms an extremely shock sensitive explosive, especially
between two metal surfaces. Reasonable care should be exercised from this
point on.
4. Gently tumble the mixing container between the hands until the ingredients
are thoroughly
mixed together.
5. Place the mixed explosive in a tightly sealed storage container until ready
to use.
Note: Do not store the mixed explosive for more than five days before using.
KEEP THIS EXPLOSIVE DRY AT ALL TIMES.
How to Use
———-
1. This explosive can either be used to either fill primer caps (Sec. III, No.
5, Vol. 1),
reloading ammunition, or it can be used to make the following
palm sized fragmentation
bombs:
A. Obtain a short section of threaded water pipe with two end caps.
B. Thread on end cap onto the pipe and fill 1/4 full with steel ball
bearings.
C. Fill the remaining space with potassium chlorate/sulfur mixture and
screw the
remaining end cap on.
/*_*_*_*_*_*\ <-threaded end cap
|_———_|
|–O-O–|
actual water
pipe -> |—–O-| "O’s" represent ball bearings
_|-O—–|_ "-’s"
represent the mixture
|_-_-_O_-_-_|
\***********/ <-threaded end cap
Note: Maintain a loose mixture between the ball bearings and explosive
by not over
tamping the explosive into the pipe. This will allow the
ball bearings to move and impact
together.
D. Gently tumble the pipe between the hands to mix the ball bearings with
the
explosive.
E. When ready to use, throw against or near the target area.
Potassium chlorate/Kerosene explosive Sec. I, No. 31
An effectove explosive munition can be made by simply pouring kerosene into
powdered potassium chlorate. This explosive can be detonated with a compound
detonator.
Materials Sources
——— ——-
Potassium chlorate Drug, chemical supply stores
Kerosene Hardware stores
Measuring container
Mixing container
Stirring rod
Storage container with tight lid
Two flat boards (same as No. 30)
Compound detonator
Procedure
———
1. Spread a handful at a time of potassium chlorate on the large flat board
and rub vigorously
with the other flat board or rolling pin until the large
particles are crushed into a very
fine powder (approx. 10 minutes per
handful)
2. To produce the explosive, all that is required is to pour 1 part by volume,
10% by weight,
of kerosene into 9 parts by volume, 90% by weight, of
potassium chlorate. Stir until
completely mixed, then store in a sealed
conatainer until ready to use.
3. Another method in producing the explosive is to lightly pre-pack a selected
charge
container with powdered potassium chlorate. When ready to use,
simply pour the pre-measured
amount of kerosene into the potassium chlorate
and allow to soak in for five minutes before
using.
How to use
———-
1. This mixture forms a low power/brisant high explosive which should be used
under strong
confinement and only as an explosive filler for antipersonnel
fragmentation bombs and light
blasting operations.
2. to use, spoon this mixture into an iron or steel pipe which has an end cap
on one end.
Note: Store mixed explosive in mixing container or load into pipe.
3. Insert compound detonator just beneath the surface of the explosive and
screw the other end
cap on with a hole drilled through for the fuse.
4. The pipe can be pre-filled with potassium chlorate and when ready to use,
simply pour in
the kerosene, allow to soak for five minutes, then detonate.
Potassium chlorate/Notrobenzene Explosive Sec. I, No. 32
A moise explosive can be made from solid potassium chlorate and liquid
nitrobenzene. This explosive has medium to high power and brisance. It can be
used as a substitute for 50% ditching dynamite or flake TNT. This exlosive can
be readily detonated by a standard blasting cap (No. 6).
Materials Sources
——— ——-
Potassium chlorate Drug and chemical supply stores
Nitrobenzene Drug stores (oil of mirbane),
chemical supply houses
Measuring container
Mixing container
Storage container with tight lid
Two flat boards (from No. 31)
Blasting cap (No. 6)
Procedure
———
1. Use step one from No. 31 to pulverize the potassium chlorate.
Note: Nitrobenzene is extremely toxic and should be handled in well ventilated
areas. Harmful effects may result from swallowing, inhalation of vapors, or
contact with the skin or eyes. In case of accidental spilling, wash the
addected area immediately with large quantities of water.
2. To produce the explosive, all that is required is to pour 1 part by volume,
20% by weight
of nitrobenzene into 4 parts by volume, 80% by weight, of
powdered potassium chlorate. Stir
until completely mixed, then store
in a sealed container wintil ready for use.
3. Another effective method in producing the explosive is to tightly pre-pack
a selected
charge container with powdered potassium chlorate. When
ready for use, simply pour the
pre-measured amount of nitrobenzene into the
potassium chlorate and allow to soak for 3 to 3
minutes before using.
Note: An important factor to observe when pouring the nitrobenzene into the
potassium chlorate is to not allow the potassium chlorate to be disturbed after
it has been soaked with nitrobenzene. Whenever a liquid is poured into a
powdered substance, a natural "caking action" will result, producing a fairly
uniform density throughout the solid material. Since uniform density has a
direct overall effect on the explosive performance, it is important to first
pre-pack a rigid container with the potassium chlorate and then pour in the
nitrobenzene and allow it to soak in without stirring. This will produce a
high performance explosive. Mixing in a plastic bag will produce a low
performance exlosive.
How to Use
———-
1. This mixture forms a very powerful explosive that can be used for general
purpose blasting
and ditching operations. It is extremely sensitive to
detonation and can be initiated by
simple homemade detonators.
Nitromethane/Sawdust explosive Sec. I, No. 33
A simple nitromethane based explosive can be made by simply pouring
nitromethane into a container filled with screened sawdust. This explosive can
be detonated with a compound detonator.
Materials Sources
——— ——-
Nitromethane Chemical supply houses, hobby
shops (fuel for r/c cars)
Sawdust (fine)
Common window screen
Measuring container
Mixing container
Storage container
Compound detonator
Procedure
———
1. Using a common window screen as a sieve, place a handful of sawdust in the
center and shake
between the hands in a back and forth motion. Collect the
sawdust that passes through and
discard the rest. (do not force big pieces
through the screen)
2. Measure out 2 parts by volume, 20% by weight, of screened sawdust into a
mixing container.
Pour in 1 part by volume, 80% by weight, of liquid
nitromethane. Stir until completely
mixed.
3. Store in a sealed container until ready to use.
How to Use
———-
1. This mixture forms a medium power/brisant high explosive which should be
used under strong
confinement and as a filler for fragmentation bombs and
light blasting operations.
2. To use, spoon this mixture into an iron or steel pipe which has an end cap
on one end.
3. Insert a compound detonator just beneath the surface of the explosive and
screw the other
end cap on with a hole drilled through for the fuse.
4. The pipe can be pre-filled with sawdust. When ready for use, simply pour
in the
nitromethane, then detonate.
Nitromethane/Ammonium Nitrate Explosive Sec. I, No. 34
A moist explosve can be made from solid ammonium nitrate fertilizer combined
with liquid nitromethane. This explosive has both high power and high brisance
and can be used as a direct substitute for TNT. This explosive can be readily
detonated by a blasting cap, No. 6 in strength. A compound detonator is not
required.
Materials Sources
——— ——-
Ammonium nitrate fertilizer (not less than Farm or feed store, or chemical
32% nitrogen) or pure supply house
Nitromethane Hobby stores, chemical supply
house
measuring container
mixing container
storage container w/ tight lid
Two flat boards (same as No. 30)
Blasting cap (No. 6)
Procedure
———
1. Spread a handful at a time of the fertilizer on the large flat board and
rub vigirously
with the other board or rolling pin until the large
particles are crushed into a fine powder
that looks like flour (approx. 10
minutes per handful)
Note: Proceed with steps 2 and 3 as soon as possible, since the powder may
moisture from the air and become spoiled.
2. To produce the explosive, all that is required is to pour 1 part by volume
or 2 parts by
weight of nitromethane into 3 parts by volume or 5 parts by
weight of powdered ammonium
nitrate. Stir until completely mixed, then
store in a sealed container until ready to use.
3. Another effective method in producing the explosive is to tightly pre-pack
a selected
charge container with powdered ammonium nitrate. When ready
to use, simply pour the
pre-measured amount of nitromethane into the
ammonium nitrate and allow to soak in for 3 to 5
minutes before using.
Note: An important factor to observe when pouring the nitromethane into the
ammonium nitrate is to not allow the ammonium nitrate to be disturbed after it
has been soaked with nitromethane. Whenever a liquid is poured into a powdered
substance, a natural "caking action" will result, producing a fairly uniform
density throughout the solid material. Since uniform density has a direct
overall effect of the explosive performance, it is important to first pre-pack
a rigid container with ammonium nitrate and then pour in the nitromethane and
allow to soak without stirring. This will produce a high performance
explosive. Mixing in a plastic bag will produce a low performance explosive.
How to Use
———-
1. This explosive is one of the most powerful/brisant two component explosives
readily
available. Each component is perfectly safe to handle by itself.
However, when the two are
mixed together, they form a sensitive high
explosive that can be detonated with a standard
blasting cap.
2. This explosive mixture should be used to defeat hard targets, such as steel
and reinforced
concrete. It can also be used with special charges that
require high brisance, i.e., shaped
charges, platter charges, and SCIMP
charges.
Nitromethane Liquid explosive Sec. I, No. 35
A liquid explosive, that resembles water in appearance, can be made from
nitromethane and aqueous ammonia (household glass cleaner). This exposive is
22 to 24 more powerful that military TNT and can be detonated with a standard
blasting cap. However, to achieve maximum velocity, a compound detonator
should be used.
Materials Sources
——— ——-
Nitromethane chemical supply or hooby store
(racing fuel)
Aniline, ethylenediamine, aqueous ammonia Hardware stores, chemical
(non-detergent) supply, grocery store
measuring container (cup, pint, etc.)
blasting cap or compound detonator
Procedure
———
Note: Nitromethane is a common chemical reagent, and under normal conditions
cannot be made to detonate even if a strong detonator is used. However, if
certain ammonia-containing compounds (called sensitizers) are alled in small
percentages (5-6 %), then the sensitized nitromethane can be detonated with a
standard #8 blasting cap. The most effective sensitizers are aniline and
ethylenediamine. The most readily available sensitizer is common household
glass cleaner (aqueous ammonia).
1. To produce the explosive, simply pour the sensitizer into the nitromethane
and mix
thoroughly. One-half pic sensitizer will sensitize one gallon of
nitromethane.
2. The explosive can be premixed, or for safety’s sake, it can be mixed just
prior to use by
prefilling a charge container with nitromethane and then
adding the sensitizer when ready to
detonate.
How to Use
———-
1. This liquid explosive can be used whenever or wherever a liquid can be
used for
disguiseability. It can be poured directly into prefabricated
special charge containers, i.e.,
shape charges, platter charges, and SCIMP
charges, without special measures being taken to
maintain uniform densities
required for solid explosives to be effective.
2. To obtain the maximum efficiency, a compound detonator should be used for
initiation.
Reliability of initiation is increased by positioning and
immersing the detonator centrally
with respect to the wall of the
container. By centrally positioning and immersing the
detonator in the
liquid, the output energy of the detonator is transmitted to the
explosive instead of being partially dissipated through the wall of the
container.
"-" = cap
| - | -| |
| - | -| |
| - | -| | +++++++ +++++++
Fertilizer/hydrazine liquid explosive Sec. I, No. 36
A liquid explosive can be made from solid ammonium nitrate fertilizer combined
with liquid anhydrous hydrazine. This liquid explosive is more powerful and
brisant than C4 plastic explosive and can be used as a direct replacement for
C4. This explosive can be detonated with a blasting cap. However, to achieve
maximum velocity a compound detonator should be used.
Materials Sources
——— ——-
Ammonium nirtate fertilizer (not less than farm or feed store or
32% nitrogen) chemical supply store
anhydrous hydrazine chemical supply house
large mixing container
glass stirring rod
storage container
blasting cap, compound detonator
Procedure
———
Note: Anhydrous hydrazine is classified as as corrosive and is flammable.
Keep away from spark or flame. It is also mildly toxic and should be handled
in well ventilated areas. Affected areas of skin should be washed with large
quantities of water.
1. Pour into the mixing container an amount of anhydrous hydrazine equal to
the amount of
explosive required.
2. Ammonium nitrate (prilled or powdered) is then added, a teaspoon at a
time, to the
hydrazine in the mixing container.
Note: The mixing container should be fairly large (5x the volume of the
hydrazine) because the chemical reaction between the ammonium nitrate and the
hydrazine is extremely effervescent and can easily bubble over the top.
3. Because of the effervescent reaction, the ammonium nitrate should be added
very slowly so
as not to create accidental over-flowing. With each
addition of ammonium nitrate, the person
doing the mixing should wait for
the initial reaction to subside, then stir the solution until
all of the
ammonium nitrate dissolves into it.
Note: The reaction between the ammonium nitrate and hydrazine liberates large
volumes of poisonous gas. The person doing the mixing should be upwind of the
mixing process so as not to breath the poisonous fumes.
4. The mixing process is continued until the ammonium nitrate no longer
dissolves into the
solution, even after five minutes of stirring, and a
small amount reamains undissolved at the
bottom of the mixing container.
This undissolved ammonium nitrate does not affect the
performance of the
explosive.
5. After the mixing process is complete, what will remain will be a clear
liquid explosive
more powerful and brisant that any military explosive.
Note: The mixed explosive has a lower toxicity of the hydrazine. However, it
is recommended that the same handling precautions be observed.
6. To make an even more powerful explosive, 20% aluminum powder (100 mesh or
finer) can be
added to the ammonium nitrate before mixing with the
hydrazine (it does not react with the
other two ingredients), or ir can
be added after the mixing process is complete.
How to Use
———-
1. This explosive is the most powerful/brisant of the two complement explosive
systems
available. It can be used whenever or wherever a liquid can be
used for disguiseability.
2. It can be poured directly into prefabricated special charge containers,
i.e., shape,
platter and SCIMP charges, without special measures being
taken to maintain uniform densities
required by solid explosives to be
effective.
3. It has unique absorption and retention poperties which can be used to
create a liquid land
mine. The liquid explosive can be poured directly
into the ground, soaking into and blending
with the surrounding earth.
The pocket of explosive can be initiated by a conventional
electrically
or mechanically actuated detonator. These pockets of explosives have
remained detonable for four days in the ground, even when the soil was
soaked due to rainy
weather.
/—-wet explosive in ground.
____________ / ____________
\ \_/ </ /
\
_____/____
\_______/ \-detonator placed here
Explosive paper Sec I, No. 37
An excellent absorption explosive can be made from a solution of PETN (the
center filler of detonator cord), acetone, and mineral oil. When any non-gloss
paper, i.e., newspaper, paperback books, corrugated cardboard, etc., is dipped
in this explosive solution and then removed and allowed to dry, the paper will
retain its original texture and appearance along with a microcrystaline high
explosive incorporated into the fiber content of the paper. This produces a
disguised explosive that can be carried into a target area without arousing
suspicion.
Materials Sources
——— ——-
PETN detonating cord (primacord)
Acetone hardware stores
mineral oil drug stores
mixing container
pan or bucket larger than the mixing
container
large, flat pan, (cake pan)
sheets of newspaper, paperback books,
corrugated cardboard, etc.
Procedure
———
1. Using a razor blade, cut detonating cord lengthwise and remove the center
filler
(P.E.T.N.). Approx. .5 lb. of PETN can be removed per 100 ft.
of detonating cord.
2. Fill a canning jar 2/3 full of acetone and heat until mildly warm by
placing the canning
jar in a pan or bucket on heat source when it contains
the canning jar.
3. Add PETN to the acetone, a tablespoon a a time, while stirring with a
stirring rod. Stir
the solution until the PETN dissolves. Add more PETN
until it no longer dissolves into
solution, even after five minutes of
stirring. Approx. 1/3 lb. of PETN will dissolve in every
lb. of warm
acetone used.
4. Approx. 2% mineral should be added to the final solution. This mineral
oil will prevent the
crystals of PETN from recrystalizing to a noticeable
size when the acetone evaporates. The
mineral oil will also provide a
better texture to the paper when it is dry after the soaking
process.
5. Pout this solution into a large, flat pam, then fill the pan with even
sheets of a non
gloss paper. It rolled newspaper is used, unroll it and
lay it out evenly in the an. Allow the
paper to soak for 30 minutes.
6. After soaking for 30 minutes, remove the paper and allow to dry for at
least 24 hours. DO
NOT DRY IN AN OVEN. After the papr has had time to
dry, 50 % of its weight will consist of a
microcrystaline high explosive
intimately incorporated into the fiber content of the paper.
How to Use
———-
1. To use simply insert a blasting cap ot compound detonator into the paper
and detonate.
2. If a rolled newspaper is used, the detonator and fusing mechanism can
be concealed in the
center of the roll and easily carried into the
target area and left where destruction is
desired. An average size
newspaper has the explosive equivalent of several sticks of
dynamite.
RDX Sec. I, No. 38
RDX is a powerful/brisant high explosive that can be made from
hexamethylenetetramine and strong nitric acid. It can be used as a booster
explosive for compound detonators, as a main explosive filler, and for the
manufacture of explosive flour (Sec. I, No. 39)
Materials Sources
——— ——-
Hexamethylenetetramine (hexamine) Drug stores under names of
urotropine, hexamin,
methenamine, etc.
strong nitric acid (d 1.50) Sec. I, No. 4
Acetone drug store
weighing scale with at least gram
accuracy or measuring spoons
graduated cylinder (cc or ml) or
measuring cups
thermometer 20 degrees - 100 degrees C or
68 degrees - 212 degrees F
several large quart canning jars
two large basins or bowls made of metal
or other similar material that can be
heated
paper towels
Procedure
———
1. Place .5 cup, 120 ml or cc of nitrix acid in a large canning jar and bring
the temperature
to between 20 and 30 degrees C. (68-86 F) By putting the
jar in a basin of cold water. If
necessary, swirl the canning jar around
the basin of cold water to bring the temperature down,
while being careful
not to allow any water to splash into the acid.
Note: Maintain the thermometer in the acid throughout the reaction while
carefully noting and controlling the temperature by alternating the jar between
the basin of cold water and the basin of hot water. The thermometer can be
used as a stirring rod if the solution is gently stirred.
2. Weigh or measure out 70 grams by weight, 18 teaspoons by volume, of the
hexamine and start
adding the salt-like hexamine slowly, 1/2 teaspoon
at a time, during a 15 minute period.
Maintain the temp. between 20 - 30
degrees C, while stirring gently with the thermometer.
Control the temp.
by dipping the canning jar in and out of the basin filled with cold
water.
3. When all of the hexamine is dissolved in the acid, heat the solution to
55 degrees C, by
placing the canning jar in a bsin of hot water. Maintain
tis temperature for about 10
minutes.
4. After heating the solution for 10 minutes, remove the canning jar from
the basin of cold
water and place it in the basin of cold water. Cool the
canning jar to 20 degrees C. (68
degrees F).
5. When the temperature has reached 20 degrees C, add 3 cups (750 ml) of
cold water to the
solution and a white salt will appear.
Note: The white salt is RDX and should be handled with great care from now on.
6. Filter the acid/water/RDX solution through a paper towel covering the
mouth of another
jar.
7. Wash the RDX crystals off the paper towel and into a canning jar, using
an additional 3
cups of fresh, cold water. Add a teaspoon of sodium
carbonate to neutralize the acid and stir
rapidly for 2-3 minutes, then
filter again.
8. The crude product can be dried out on the paper towel filter. It is
suitable for fairly
immediate use, or it can be purified.
9. To purify RDX, fill a quart canning jar 2/3 full of acetone. Heat the
acetone by placing
the jar in a basin of hot simmering water, then add
RDX, a tablespoon at a time, until it
completely dissolves in the
acetone.
10. After the maximem amount of RDX has been dissolved into the hot acetone,
allow the
solution to cool to room temperature, then let stand for one
more hour.
11. The RDX will form a salt once again. Filter the RDX and spread it out on
a paper towel as
before.
12. The purified RDX should be stored in a clean canning jar with a tight
fitting lid. It can
be stored for months without loss of effectiveness.
Note: RDX is not too sensitive to heat and shock, but is fairly sensitive to
friction. Care should therefore be taken when the explosive is to be packed or
when the dry explosive is handled. Using the amounts of chemicals listed in
this article, the yield of RDX should be about 1/5 oz.
Explosive Flour Sec. I, No. 39
An explosive that looks and bakes like ordinary wheat flour can be made from a
mixture flour and RDX. It can be used in many different forms as an explosive:
in its dry powder form, moistened with water and used as a dough like plastic
explosive, or by using special recipes it can be baked into pancakes or
bisuits.
Materials Sources
——— ——-
RDX Sec. I, No. 15
Sec. I, No. 38
Flour grocery store
large sheet of wood, and a rolling pin
(wood must be flat)
Procedure
———
1. Place a tablespoonful of RDX crystals on the large sheet of wood. Using
a rolling pic,
crush the crystals into a fine powder, the consistency of
flour.
Note: Use only a rolling pic, not a block of wood. It is important to crush
the RDX crystals into a fine powder rather than using friction between to
rubbing surfaces.
2. Mix 80% by weight of powdered RDX with 20% by weight of flour in a canning
jar with a tight
fitting lid by shaking for five minutes.
3. The mixed explosive flour can be stored in the sealed mixing conainer for
long periods of
time before using. It can also be disguised by storing
it in an original bag of flour.
How to Use
———-
1. This explosive flour is more powerful and brisant that military TNT and
is easiest to
detonate in its powdered form. A standard blasting cap
provides sufficient shock to set it
off.
2. To use as a plastic explosive, mix 4 parts by weight of flour to 1 part
by weight of water.
This forms a dough that has very desirable plastic
qualities which can be used to mold itself
around vertain types of
targets in the same manner as military C4 plastic explosive. A
compound
detonator must be use to insure positive detonation.
3. The following recipes make it possible to bake the powdered explosive into
pancakes or
biscuits:
A. For pancakes, use this recipe:
3 cups explosive flour
2 teaspoons of baking powder
.5 teaspoon of salt
1
cup of milk
1 egg
2 tablespoons of melted lard
Note: This pancake mixture can be left of the griddle until it completely chars
with no unusual effects, thus demonstrating the stability of the mixture to
heat.
B. For explosive biscuits, use this recipe:
3 cups explosive flour
2 teaspoons of baking powder
3/8 teaspoon of salt
2
teaspoons of lard
88 ml or cc of water
4. The finished pancakes and biscuits look, feel, and taste like ordinary
pancakes and
biscuits. However, they are highly toxic, and SHOULD NOT
BE EATEN. Before using these baked
items as an explosive, they must be
moistened and kneaded into a plastic masss to remove the
air spaces.
They may be exploded in the same manner as the plastic form.
Pipe Hand Grenade Sec. II, No. I
Hand grenades can be made from a piece of iron pipe. The filler can be plastic
or granular military explosive, improvised explosive, or propellant from
shotgunn or small arms ammunition.
Materials Sources
——— ——-
Iron pipe, threaded ends, 1.5" to 3" in
diameter, 3" to 8" long
2 end caps
explosive or propellant
nonelectric blasting cap (comm. or military)
fuse cord
hand drill
pliers
Procedure
———
1. Place blasting cap on one end of fuse cord and crimp with pliers.
Note: To find out how long the fuse cord should be, check the time it takes
for a known length of fuse to burn. If 12 inches burns in 30 seconds, a six
inch cord will ignite the grenade in 15 seconds.
2. Screw pipe cap to one end of pipe. Place fuse cord with blasting cap into
the opposite end
so that the blasting cap is near the center of the pipe.
Note: If plastic explosive is to be used, fill pipe before inserting blasting
cap. Push a round stick into the center of the exlosive to make a hole and
then insert blasting cap.
3. Pour exlposive or propellant into pipe a little at a time. Tap the base
of the pipe
frequently to settle filter.
4. Drill a hole in the center of the unassembled pipe cap large enough
for the fuse cord to
pass through.
5. Wipe pipe threads to remove any filler material. Slide the drilled pipe
cap over the fuse
and screw handtight onto pipe.
Nail Grenade Sec. II, No. 2
Effective fragmentation grenades can be made from a block of TNT or other
blasting explosive and nails.
Materials Sources
——— ——-
Block of TNT or other blasting explosive
Nails
Non-electric military blasting cap
fuse cord
tap, string, wire or glue
Procedure
———
1. If an explosive charge other than a standard TNT block is used, make
a hole in the center
of the charge for inserting the blasting cap. TNT
can be drilled with relative safety. With
plastic explosives, a hole can
be made by pressing a round stick into the center of the
charge. The hole
should be deep enough that the blasting cap is totally within the
explosive.
2. Tape, tie or glue on or two rows of closely packed nails to sides of
explosive block.
Nails should completely cover the four surfaces of the
block.
3. Place blasting cap on one end of the fuse cord and crimp with pliers.
Note: Use same method in Sec. II, No. 1 to determine burning lengths of fuse.
4. Insert the blasting cap in the hole in the block of explosive. Tape or tie
fuse cord
securly in place so that it will not fall out when the grenade
is thrown.
Alternate Use
————-
An effective directional anti-personnel mine can be made by placing nails on
only one side of the explosive block. For this case, an electric blasting cap
should be used.
Wine Bottle Cone Charge Sec. II, No. 3
This cone charge will penetrate 3 to 4 in. of armor. Placed on an engine
conpartment, it will disable a tank or other vehicle beyond immediate repair.
Materials Sources
——— ——-
Glass wine bottle with cone shaped false
bottom
Plastic or castable explosive
blasting cap
gasoline or kerosene (small amount)
string
adhesive tape
Procedure
———
1. Soak a piece of string in gasoline or kerosene. Double wrap this
string around the wine
bottle approx. 3 in. above the top of the cone.
Note: Adding a small amount of motor oil to the gasoline or kerosene will
improve results.
2. Ignite the string and allow to burn for 1 to 2 minutes. Then plunge the
bottle into cold
water to crack it. The top half can now be easily removed
and discarded.
3. If plastic explosive is used:
A. Pack explosive into the bottle a little at a time compressing with
a wooden rod.
Fill the bottle up to the top.
B. Press a .25 in. wooden dowel .5 in into the middle of the top of
the explosive
charge to form a hole for the blasting cap.
4. If TNT or other castable explosive is used:
A. Break explosive into small pieces using a wooden mallet or non-
sparking metal
tools. Place pieces in a tin can.
B. Suspend this can in a larger container which is
partly filled with
water. A stiff wire or stick pushed through the smaller can will
accomplish this.
Note: The inner can must not rest on the bottom of the outer container.
C. Heat the containr on a electric hot plate or other heat source. Stir
the explosive
frequently with a wooden stick while it is melting.
Note: Keep area well ventilated while melting explosive. Fumes may be
poisonous.
D. When all the explosive has melted, remove the inner container and
stir the molten
explosive until it begins to thicken. Diring this
time the bottom half of the wine bottle
should be placed in the
container of hot water. This will pre-heat the bottle so that it
will not crack whenthe explosive is poured.
E. Remove the bottle from how water and dry thoroughly. Pour molten
explosive into the
bottle and allow to cool. The crust which
forms on top of the charge during cooling should be
broken with a
wooden stick and more explosive added. Do this as often as necessary
until the bottle is filled to the top.
F. When explosive has completely hardened, bore a hole for the blasting
cap in the
middle of the top of the charge about .5 in. deep.
How to Use
———-
1. Place blasting cap in the hole in the top of the charge. If non-electric
blasting cap is
used, be sure cap is crimped around fuze and fuze is
long enough to provide safe delay.
2. Place the charge so that the bottom is 3-4 in. from the target. This can
be done by taping
legs to the charge or any other convenient means as
long as there is nothing between the base
of the charge and the target.
3. If electric blasting cap is used, connect blasting wires to firing
circuit.
Note: The effectiveness of this charge can be increased by placing it inside a
can, box, or similar container and packing sand or dirt between the charge and
the container.
Grenade/Tin can land mine Sec. II, No. 4
This device can be used as a land mine that will explode when the trip wire is
pulled.
Materials Sources
——— ——-
Hand grenade having side safety lever
Sturdy container, open at one end, that is just
large enough to slip over the grenade and its
safety lever.
Strong string or wire
Procedure
———
1. Fasten one piece of string to the closed end of the container, making
a strong connection.
This can be done by punching 2 holes in the can,
looping through them, and tying a knot.
2. Tie free end of this string to bush, stake, fencepost, etc.
3. Fasten another length of string to the grenade such that it cannot
interfere with the
functioning of the ignition mechanism of the
grenade.
4. Insert grenade into container.
5. Lay free length of string across path and fasten to stake, bush, etc.
The string should
remain taught.
stake container w/ grenade stake
_______
| trip wire | |
|———————————— |——————|
| ______| |
How to Use
———-
1. Carefully withdraw safety pin by pulling on ring. Be sure safety lever
is restrained during
this position during this operation. Grenade will
function in normal manner when trip wire is
pulled.
Note: In area where concealment is possible, a greater effect may be obtained
by suspending the grenade several feet above ground, as illustrated below (yuk)
\ \ | |
\ \ | |
\ \ | tree |
|\ \| |
| \ | |
| \| |
| |
|
_|_ | |
Grenade -> | | | |
|___| | |
| | |
| | |
stake
trip wire | | |
|———————————————-/\ | |
| / \————-
knot
Mortar Scrap mine Sec. II, No. 5
A directional mine that can be placed in the path of advancing troops.
Materials Sources
——— ——-
Iron pipe, appprox. 3 ft. in length and 2-4 Scrapyard, steel company
in. in diameter and threaded on at least Salvaged artillery case
one end
Threaded cap to fit pipe
black powder or salvaged artillery powder
(.5 lb total)
Electrical igniter (commercial SQUIB or
improvised ignitor from Sec. VI, No. 1.
Safety or improvised fuse may also be used
Small stones, about 1 in. in diameter or small
size scap; about 1 lb. total
rags for wadding, each 20 in. x 20 in.
paper or bag
battery and wire
stick (non-metallic)
Note: Be sure pipe has no cracks or flaws
Procedure
———
1. Screw threaded cap onto pipe.
2. Place propellant and igniter in paper or rag and tie package with string
so contents will
not fall out.
3. Insert packaged propellant and igniter into pipe until package rests
against threaded cap
leaving firing leads extending from open end of pipe.
4. Roll rag until it is about 6 in. long and the same diameter as pipe.
Insert rag wadding
against packaged propellant ignitor. With caution, pack
tightly using stick.
5. Insert stones and/or scrap metal into pipe.
6. Insert second piece of rag wadding against stones and/or metal scrap.
pack tightly as
before.
explosive stones/scrap firing leads
rags rags
————————————————
|XXXXXX:::::::::(*&(*()(*&::::::::::::\\\\\\\\\\\
|XXXXXX:::::::::()&*%%^$*)::::::::::::\\\\\\\\\\\\\
———————————————— \\
\\
How to Use
———-
1. Bury pipe in ground with open end facing the expected path of the enemy.
The open end may
be covered with cardboard and a thin layer of dist or
leaves as camoflage.
2. Connect firing leads to battery and switch. Mine can be remotely fired
when needed or
attached to a trip device placed in path of advancing
troops.
Note: A NON-ELECTRICAL ignition system can be substituted for the electrical
system as follows:
1. Follow above procedure, substituting safety fuse for igniter.
2. Light safety fuse when ready to fire.
Coke bottle shaped charge Sec.II, No. 2
This shaped charge will penetrate 3 in. of armor. It will disable a vehicle if
placed on the engine or engine compartment.
Materials
———
Glass coke bottle 6.5 oz. size
plastic or castable explosive, about 1 lb.
blasting cap
metal cylinder, open at both ends, about 6 in. long and 2 in. inside diameter
(should be heavy walled for best results)
plug to fit mouth of coke bottle (rags, metal, wood, paper, etc.)
Non-metal rod about .25 in. in diameter and 8 in. or more in length
tape or string
2 tin cans if castable explosive is used (see Sec. II, No. 3)
Procedure
———
1. Place plug in mouth of bottle.
2. Place cylinder over top of bottle until bottom of cyliner rests of widest
part of bottle.
Tape cylinder to bottle. Container should be straight on
top of bottle.
3. If plastic explosive is used:
A. Place explosive in cylinder a little at a time tamping with rod until
cylinder is
full.
B. Press the rod about .5 in. into the middle of the top of the exlosive
charge to form
a hole for the blasting cap.
4. If castable explosive is use, follow procedure of Wine Bottle cone charge,
Sec. II, No. 3,
step 4, a thru f.
How to Use
———-
Method 1. If electrical cap is used.
1. Place blasting cap in hole in top of explosive.
Note: Do not insert cap until ready to detonate the charge.
2. Place bottom of coke bottle flush against the target. If target is
not flat and horizontal,
fasten bottle to target by any conveneint means,
such as by placing tape or string around
target and top of bottle. Bottom
of bottle acts as stand-off.
Note: Be sure that base of bottle is flush against target and that there is
nothing between the target and the base of the bottle.
3. Connect leads from blasting cap to firing circuit.
Method II. If non-electrical cap is used.
1. Crimp cap around fuse.
Note: Be sure there is enough fuse to allow a safe delay.
2. Follow steps 1, 2 and Notes of Method I.
3. Light fuse when ready to fire.
Cyndrilical Cavity shaped charge Sec. II, No. 7
A shaped charge can be made from common pipe. It will penetrate 1.5 in of
steel, producing a hole 1.5 in in diameter.
Materials
———
Ir on or steel pipe, 2 to 2.5 in. in diameter and 3 to 4 in. long.
Metal pipe, .5 to .75 in in diameter and 1.5 in. long, open at both ends.
Pipe should be as thin as possible.
Blasting cap
Non-metallic rod, .25 in. in diameter
Plastic or castable explosive
2 metal cans of different sizes ——|
|
stick or wire | only if castable explosive is used
|
heat source ——|
Procedure
———
1. If plastic explosive us used:
A. Place larger pipe on flat surface. Hand pack and tamp explosive into
pipe. Leave
approx. .25 in. space at the top.
B. Place rod in center of explosive. Enlarge hole in explosive to
diameter and length
of small pipe.
C. Insert small pipe into hole.
Note: Make sure that there is direct contact between the explosive and the
small pipe. Hand pack if necessary.
D. Make sure that there is .25in. empty space aboce small pipe.
Remove pipe if
necessary.
E. Turn large pipe upside down, (the whole object) and pus rod .5 in.
into center of
opposite end of explosive to form a hole for the
blasting cap.
Note: Do not insert cap until ready to fire shaped charge.
2. If TNT or other castable explosive is used:
A. Follow procedure, Sec. II, No. 3, step 4, Parts A, B, C, including
Notes.
B. When all explosive has melted, remove the inner container and stir
the molten
explosive until it begins to thicken.
C. Place large pipe of flat surface. Pour explosive into pipe until
it is 1.75 in. from
the top.
D. Place small pipe in the center of large pipe so that it rests on top
of exlosive.
Holding small pipe in place, pour explosive around
small pipe until explosive is .25 in. from
top of large pipe.
E. Allow explosive to cool. Break crust that forms on top of the charge
during cooling
with a wooden stick and add more explosive. Do this
as often as necessary until explosive is
.25 in. from top.
F. When explosive has completely hardened, turn pipe upside down and
bore a hole for
the blasting cap in the middle of the top of the
charge about .50 in. deep.
How to Use
———-
Method I. If an electrical cap is used.
1. Place blasting cap in hole made for it.
Note: Do not insert cap until ready to use.
2. Place other end of pipe flush against target. Fasten pipe to target by
any convenient
means, such as by placing tape or string around target and
on top of pipe. If target is not
flat and horizontal.
Note: Be sure that base of pipe is flush against target and that there is
nothing between the charge and the base of the pipe.
3. Connect leads from cap to firing circuit.
Method II. If non-electrical cap is used.
1. Crimp cap around fuse.
Note: Be sure that there is enough fuse to allow safe delay.
2. Follow steps 1, 2 and notes of Method I.
3. Light fuse when ready to fire.
Funnel shaped charge Sec. II, No. 9
An effective shaped charge can be made using various commercial funnels. See
table for penetration capabilities.
Materials
———
Container (sode or beer can, etc.), approx. 2.5 in. in diameter x 5 in. long
Funnels (glass, steel or aluminum) 2.5 in. in diameter
Wooden rod or stick, .25 in. in diameter
tape
blasting cap (electrical or non-electrical)
sharp cutting edge
explosive
Procedure
———
1. Remove the top and bottom from can and discard.
2. Cut off and throw away the spout of the funnel(s).
Note: When using 3 funnels (see table), place the modified funnels together as
tight and as straight as possible. Tape the funnels together at the outer
ridges.
3. Place the funnels in the modified can. Tape outer ridges to hold funnels
to can.
4. If plastic explosive is used, fill the can with the explosive using small
quantities, and
tamp with wooden rod or stick.
Note: If castable explosive is used, refer to step 4 of Sec. II, No. 3.
5. Cut wodden rod to lengths 3 inches longer than the standoff length. (see
table) Position
three of there rods around the explosive filled can and
hold in place with tape.
Note: The position of the rods on the container must conform to the standoff
dimensions to obtain the penetrations given in the table.
________________
_ | |
| | <-|—-explosive
3| –| |–
i| - | /\
| - rods (legs) held on with tape
n| - | / \ | -
| - | / funnel \ | -
- -
|/____________\| -
- - - -
| - - -
- - - -
^
|>standoff
Table
Funnel Material | No. of funnels | Standoff (ins.) | Penetration |
——————————————————————
| | | | |
| glass | 1 | 3.5 | 4 |
| | | | |
|—————————————————————–
| | | | |
| steel | 3 | 1 | 2.5 |
| | | | |
|—————————————————————–
| | | | |
| aluminum | 3 | 3.5 | 2.5 |
| | | | |
|—————————————————————–
| If only one steel or aluminum funnel is available: |
|—————————————————————–
| | | | |
| steel | 1 | 1 | 1.5 |
| | | | |
|—————————————————————–
| | | | |
| aluminum | 1 | 1 | 1.5 |
| | | | |
|—————————————————————–
6. Make a hole for blasting cap in the center of the explosive with rod
or stick.
Note: Do not place blasting cap in place until the funnel shaped charge is
ready to use.
How to Use
———-
1. Place blasting cap in the hole in top of the charge. If non-electric
cap is used, be sure
cap is crimped around fuse and fuse is long enough
to provide safe delay.
2. Place (tape if necessary) the Funnel Shaped Charge on the target so that
nothing is between
the base of charge and target.
3. If electric cap is used, connect cap wires to firing circuit.
Linear shaped Charge Sec. II, No. 10
This shaped charge made from construction materials will cut through nearly 3
inches of armor depending opon the liner used. (see table)
Materials
———
Standard structural angle or pipe (see table)
wood or cardboard container
hacksaw —–|
| only is pipe is used
vise —–|
wooden rod, .25 in. in diameter
explosive
blasting cap
tape
Table
| Type | material | liner size | Standoff | Penetration|
————|—————–|————-|————|————|
| angle | steel | 3×3 legs x | 2 in. | 2.75 in |
| | | .25 in web | | |
|———–|—————–|————-|————|————|
| angle | aluminum | 2×2 legs x | 5.5 in. | 2.5 in. |
| | | 3/16 web | | |
|———–|—————–|————-|————|————|
| pipe half | aluminum | 2 diameter | 2 in. | 2 in. |
| section | | | | |
|———–|—————–|————-|————|————|
|pipe half | copper | 2 diameter | 1 in. | 1.75 in. |
|section | | | | |
|———–|—————–|————-|————|————|
Procedure
———
Note: These were the only linear shaped charges of this type that were found to
be more efficient than the ribbon charge.
Ribbon Charge: No standoff; just place on target.
1. If pipe is used:
A. Place the pipe in the vise and cut pipe in half lengthwise. Remove the
pipe half
sections from the vise.
B. Discard one of the pipe half sections, or save for another charge.
2. Place angle or pipe half section with open end face down on a flat surface.
3. Make container from any material available. The container must be as wide
as the angle or
pipe half section, twice as high, and as long as the
desired cut to be made with the
charge.
4. Place container over the liner (angle or pipe half section) and tape liner
to container.
5. If plastic explosive is used, fill the container with the explosive
ising small
quantities, and tamp with wooden rod or stick.
Note: If castable explosive is used, refer to step 4 of Sec. II, No. 3.
6. Cut wooden rod to lengths 2 inches longer than the standoff length (see
table). Postition