Unlimited Explosives
for
TOTAL WAR
——————————————————————————————-
All material has been written by myself and others,this document shows every known explosive
for terrorist use;this was made for warfare information only and should be used not by the average
idiot but a person with extended knowledge of chemistry.Before you attempt at making any of the
devices just remember: Saftey First!!!
(this document must be veiwed in the WordPad format
only because NotePad does not support the diagrams in these papers)
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++Special Thanks to Bradon Hurley of Cincinnati,Ohio who made me
what I am today;thanks for rating me out for 7 mutha fuckin years!!!+++++++++++++++
Introduction
Warning
…………………………………….
Chapter 1 - Low Explosives
Blackpowder
…………………………………
Other Types of Blackpowder ……………………
Zinc Explosive ………………………………
Water Fire Starter
…………………………..
Explosive Misxtures ………………………….
Chapter 2 - High Explosives
Astrolite …………………………………..
Astrolite A/A-1-5 ……………………………
Sodium Chlorate Explosives
……………………
Sodium Chlorate Gunpowder …………………….
Rocket
Fuel …………………………………
Rocket Fuel 2 (better performance)
…………….
Incendiary Mixture …………………………..
Impact Mixture
………………………………
Filler Explosive …………………………….
Nitromethane ’solid’ Explosives
……………….
Picric Acid …………………………………
Making Picric
Acid from Aspirin ……………….
Tetryl ……………………………………..
R.D.X.
……………………………………..
R.D.X. (in
details)…………………………..
Composition ‘C’ ……………………………..
Composition C-2 and C-3 ………………………
Gelatin Dynamite
…………………………….
Peroxyacetone ……………………………….
Cellulose Nitrate (guncotton) …………………
Nitrogen Triiodide
…………………………..
Nitroglycerin ………………………………
Making Sulfuric Acid …………………………
T.N.T. (Trinitrotoulene)
……………………..
Mercury Fulminate ……………………………
Mercury
Fulminate II …………………………
Mercury Fulminate II (in
details)………………
M-80’s ……………………………………..
Nitrogen
Trichloride …………………………
Crater Makers (written by Master
Mayhem)………..
Blasting Gel-ignite (by The Flower Child)……….
Making Sodium or
Potassium Chlorate ……………
Plastique Explosive From Chlorinating Compound ….
Plastique Explosive From Table Salt ……………
Gelatine From Anti-Freeze (diethelene
glycol)……
Acetone Peroxide …………………………….
Double Salts
………………………………..
Lead Picrate ………………………………..
Silver Fulminate
…………………………….
Nitroguanidine ………………………………
M.M.A.N.(Monomethylamine nitrate)………………
PETN (Pentaerythrite
Tetranitrate)……………..
Nitromannite(Mannite hexanitrate)………………
TACC
(Tetraminecopper (II) Chlorate)……………
DDNP
(Diazodinitrophenol)……………………..
HMTD
(Hexamethylenetriperoxidediamine)………….
Chapter 3 - Incendiaries
Napalm
……………………………………..
Thermite
……………………………………
Chemically Ignited Explosives
…………………
Chapter 4 - Smoke Bombs
Smoke Producer
………………………………
Smoke Bomb ………………………………….
Smoke Mixtures
………………………………
Chlorine and Turpentine ………………………
Tear Gas (from the terrorist hand
book)…………
Chapter 5 - Bombs
Generic Bomb ………………………………..
Firebombs …………………………………..
Pipe Bomb
…………………………………..
Contact Grenade ……………………………..
Carbide Bomb ………………………………..
Hindenberg Bomb
……………………………..
Fireworks the Fact Book ………………………
Mercury Explosive ……………………………
E-Z Pipe Bomb
……………………………….
Pipe Bomb II ………………………………..
Cherry Bomb
…………………………………
E-Z Terrorism Kit ……………………………
Unstable mud ………………………………..
Molotov Cocktails ……………………………
Chemical Explosive Bottle
…………………….
Chemical Fire Bottle …………………………
Exploding Drugs ……………………………..
Nitrostarch Explosives
……………………….
E-Z Molotov Cocktail …………………………
10
Great Explosive Mixtures …………………..
Chapter 7 - Fuses and Timers
Black
Powder Fuse ……………………………
Slow Burning
………………………………..
Fast Burning ………………………………..
Digtal Timer (from Diabolical G
D)……………..
Radio Control Detonators ……………………..
Electric
Blasting Cap Manufacture ……………..
Fuse Cap Manufacture
…………………………
How Blasting Caps Works ………………………
Chapter 8 - Nuclear Weapons
Nuclear Weapons ……………………………..
Atomic
Weapons ………………………………
——————————————————————————————-
INTRODUCTION
——————————————————————————————-
The trouble with chemical books these days,is that they never explain
in detail how to
make something that you want.Sure,they tell you how the
Chinese did it in 1500 or ten
centuries ago.But now days, that does not
help.Even some of the army manuals don’t even give
you enough information
on HOW-TO-DO it.
It’s a fun game to search out the
materials that can be put together to
make something go "BOOM".An interesting point
to remember that it is much
easier to make a big explosion than a small one.It is very
difficult for
a home expermienter to make a fire-cracker,but a bomb capable of blowing
the walls out of a building is easy.You can find what you need in grocery
stores,hardware
stores,and farm supplies.Another,but harder place,to get
chemicals is a chemical supply
house.These places can be dangerous to
your explosive career because some supply houses were
told to report
people who buy chemicals in a certain combination.For example;If a person
were to buy tolulene,nitric acid,and sulfuric acid would be reported.The
reason:those
chemicals are the ones used in making Tri-nitro-tolulene
(TNT).
WARNING:
——–
The actual construction of the devices and materials described in this
text are dangerous,even for an experienced chemist.Also,the construction
or possession of many
of these devices would be in violation of many
federal,state,and local laws.
BlackPowder3 is not responsible for what damages or trouble that
the missuse of the
information that is stated herein.Therefore you are
responsible for all of your actions that
you make.Intended for warfare
purposes only.
——————————————————————————————-
CHAPTER ONE [LOW EXPLOSIVES]
——————————————————————————————-
Low explosive are good for making a loud bang, or to scare the living
daylight out of
some poor person or even for making booby traps. In this
chapter I will explain the making of
many different types of low
explosives.
BLACKPOWDER
———–
You will need potassium or sodium nitrate, sulfur, and hardwood
charcoal. The common
name for potassium nitrate is saltpeter. Sodium
nitrate is sold at farm supplies under the
name of nitrate of soda. It is
also called chile saltpeter. Sodium nitrate make a slightly
more powerful
black powder but has a disadvantage because it will absorb moisture from
the air. So, if you use it then be sure to store it in a dry, air tight
container. You also
can get sulfur at farm supplies as a wetable powder
used for spraying. It is cheap and works
well. Some drug stores sell
sulfur under the name of flowers of sulfur. If you use nitrate of
soda,
it will be in the form of little round beads. Bake it in an over at 200
degrees
for 10-15 minutes to drive out the moisture. Then dump a cup or
two into a blender and switch
it on. It will do a beautiful job of
reducing it to powder. Buy a bag of charcoal briquettes
at a grocery
store. Put a few briquettes in a rag and pound with a hammer. Dip the
results into the blender, grind, and strain through a tea strainer. Mix
by volume:
2 parts powdered charcoal
1 part sulfur
confined. It
can be greatly improved, however, by processing it as
follows:
Moisten with water
until it will stick together when pinched between
thumb and finger.
Press it into
a disposable aluminum pie pan.
Bake it in a preheated oven at 200 degrees for about 30
minutes.
Get it totally dry. Grind into a fine a powder as possible with a
mortar
and pestle.
If you use a blender at this point, there is a danger of explosion.
It is not very sensitive to friction or impact, but is very sensitive
to sparks.
If you followed these directtions, you should have a fine slate-grey
powder.
OTHER TYPES OF BLACKPOWDER
————————–
than the ordinary
potassium nitrate powder. The only disadvantage (or
advantage) is that it is very sensitive to
sparks and some leave a
corrosive residue. A word of caution: when you decide to make these
they want to.
[All chemicals are measured by volume]
1: Potassium perchlorate 69.2%
Sulfur 15.4%
Charcoal 15.4%
2: Potassium nitrate 70.4%
Sulfur
19.4%
Sodium sulfate 10.2%
3: Potassium nitrate 64.0%
sulfur
12.0%
sawdust 17.0%
charcoal 7.0%
4: Potassium nitrate 50.0%
Ammonium perchlorate 25.0%
Sulfur 12.5%
charcoal 12.5%
5: Barium
nitrate 75.0%
Charcoal 12.5%
Sulfur 12.5%
6: Sodium peroxide
67.0%
Sodium thiosulphate 33.0%
7: Potassium chlorate 75.0%
Sulfur
12.5%
Charcoal 12.5%
8: Potassium nitrate 79.0%
straw charcoal
12.0%
sulfur 12.0%
9: Potassium nitrate 70.6%
Sulfur 23.5%
Antimony sulfate 5.9%
10: Potassium nitrate 37.5%
Starch
37.5%
Sulfur 18.75%
Antimony powder 6.25%
11: Guanidine nitrate 49.0%
Potassium nitrate 40.0%
Charcoal 11.0%
The above chemical ratios are
percentages. When making the stuff, be
sure to grind up all the ingredients as fine as you
possibly can. The
finer you have the chemicals the better it will explode.
ZINC EXPLOSIVE
————–
To make a big flash of flames almost
instantly try mixing:
1 part Zinc dust
1 part Sulfur
When these two
mix together they will burst into flame almost instantly!
Be careful for it does go off in a
sudden flash and can singe anything that
it is around if not expecting it. This is not a
powerful explosive but it
is violent even when not confined, so be careful.
WATER FIRE STARTER
——————
So, do you think water puts out
fires? In this one, it starts it.
Mixture: ammonium nitrate + ammonium chloride + iodine +
zinc dust. When a
drop or two of water is added, the ammonium nitrate forms nitric acid
which
reacts with the zinc to produce hydrogen and heat. The heat vaporizes the
iodine
(giving off purple smoke) and the ammonium chloride (becomes purple
when mixed with iodine
vapor). It will ignite the hydrogen and begin
burning.
Ammonium nitrate: 8
grams
Ammonium choride: 1 gram
Zinc dust : 8 grams
Iodine crystals : 1 gram
EXPLOSIVE MIXTURES
——————
Following is a list of
chemicals, most of which can be easily obtained.
You will also find the chemical symbol of
another chemical which explodes
on contact with said chemical. This is useful in making the
ever so useful
pipe bomb.
Just for the people that don’t know:
Page 5
CHEMICAL EXPLODES WITH
—————————————————————————
Acetic acid H2SO4
HNO3
Acetic anhydride H2SO4 HNO3
Acrolein H2SO4 HNO3
Allyl alcohol H2SO4 HNO3
Aniline H2SO4 HNO3
Aniline acetate H2SO4 HNO3
Aniline
hydrochloride H2SO4 HNO3
Benzoyl peroxide H2SO4 HNO3
Cyanic acid H2SO4 HNO3
Chlorosulfonic acid H2SO4 HNO3
Dimethyl keytone H2SO4 HNO3
Epichlorohydrin H2SO4 HNO3
Ethylene imine H2SO4 HNO3
Hydrogen peroxide H2SO4 HNO3
Mesityl oxide H2SO4 HNO3
Acetone Cyanohydrin H2SO4
Carbon
disulfide H2SO4
Cresol H2SO4
Cumene H2SO4
Diisobutylene H2SO4
Ethylene
cyanohydrin H2SO4
Ethylene glycol H2SO4
Hydrofluoric acid H2SO4
Cyanide of sodium
HNO3
Cyclohexanol HNO3
Cyclohexanone HNO3
Ethyl alcohol HNO3
Hydrazine
HNO3
Hydriodic acid HNO3
Isopropyl ether HNO3
Manganese HNO3
H2SO4 -
Sulfuric Acid
HNO3 - Nitric Acid
——————————————————————————————-
CHAPTER TWO [HIGH EXPLOSIVES]
——————————————————————————————-
Now, here I stress the word of saftey. These explosive compounds can
remove a limb or
kill you. So I would suggest, before you even think about
trying any of these, that you have
some background knowledge on explosive
or chemistry. These explosives range from sound
sensitive to water
sensitive or electrically ignited.
It takes time and patience
to make high explosive compounds. Some are
easier than the others and some of the chemicals
seem almost impossible to
find. In this part, to obtain most of the chemicals needed her e you
will
have to go though a chemical supply house. Remember that some of the
chemical
houses have been told to notify the police if a certain
combination of chemicals are ordered
then send the name and all the
information about that person ordering to the police. And it is
possible
that you might get a little visit from the city law. Also, making, using,
selling, or possession of many of the explosives are illegal and a hard
penalty can rise. Even
for first offenders. Take this warning. Its true!
ASTROLITE
———
The astrolite family of liquid explosives were products of rocket
propellant
research in the ’60’s. Astrolite A-1-5 is supposed to be the
world’s most powerful non-nuclear
explosive -at about 1.8 to 2 times more
powerful than TNT. Being more powerful it is also
safer to handle than
TNT (not that it isn’t safe in the first place) and Nitroglycerin.
"Astrolite G is a clear liquid explosive especially designed to
produce very high
detonation velocity, 8,600MPS (meters/sec.) compared
with 7,700MPS for nitroglycerin and
6,900MPS for TNT. In addition, a very
unusual characteristic is that it the liquid explosive
has the ability to
be absorbed easily into the ground while remaining detonable…In field
when the soil was
soaked due to rainy weather know what that means?…
Astrolite Dynamite!
To make
(mix in fairly large container & outside) two parts by weight
of ammonium nitrate mixed
with one part by weight ‘anhydrous’ hydrazine,
produces Astrolite G… Feel free to use
different ratios.
Hydrazine is the chemical you’ll probably have the hardest time
getting hold of. Uses for Hydrazine are: Rocket fuel, agricultural
chemicals (maleic
hydrazide), drugs (antibacterial and antihypertension),
polymerization catalyst, plating
metals on glass and plastics, solder
fluxes, photographic developers, diving equipment.
Hydrazine is also the
chemical you should be careful with.
ASTROLITE A/A-1-5
—————–
Ok, here’s the good part…
Mix
20%(weight) aluminum powder to the ammonium nitrate,and then mix with
hydrazine. The aluminum
powder should be 100 mesh or finer. Astrolite A
has a detonation velocity of 7,800MPS.
You should be careful not to get any of the astrolite on you, if it happens
though, you
should flush the area with water. Astrolite A&G both should be
able to be detonated by a
#8 blasting cap.
SODIUM CHLORATE EXPLOSIVES
————————–
Potassium chlorate is similar to Sodium chlorate,and in most cases can be a
substitute. Sodium chlorate is also more soluble in water. You can find
sodium chlorate at
Channel or any hardware/home improvement store. It is
used in blowtorches and you can get
about 3lbs for about $6.00.
SODIUM CHLORATE GUNPOWDER
————————-
65% sodium chlorate
22% charcoal
13% sulphur
and sprinkle some graphite on top.
ROCKET FUEL
———–
6 parts sodium chlorate mixed *THOROUGHLY* with 5 parts rubber cement.
ROCKET FUEL 2 (better performance)
———————————-
50% sodium
chlorate
35% rubber cement
10% epoxy resin hardener
5% sulphur
You
may wish to add more sodium chlorate depending on the purity you are
using.
——————
55% aluminum powder (atomized)
45%
sodium chlorate
5% sulphur
IMPACT MIXTURE
————–
50% red phosphorus
50% sodium chlorate
Unlike potassium chlorate,
sodium chlorate won’t explode spontaneously when
mixed with phosphorus. It has to be hit to be
detonated.
FILLER EXPLOSIVE
—————-
85% sodium
chlorate
10% vaseline
5% aluminum powder
NITROMETHANE EXPLOSIVES
Nitromethane (CH3NO2)
Specific gravity: 1.139
Flash point : 95f
Auto-ignite : 785f
Derivation: Reaction of methane or propane
with nitric acid under pressure.
Uses: Rocket fuel; solvent for cellulosic compounds,
polymers, waxes,
fats, etc.
To be detonated with a #8 cap, add:
1)
95% nitromethane + 5% ethylenediamine
2) 94% nitromethane + 6% aniline
Power
output: 22-24% more powerful than TNT. detonation velocity of
6,200MPS.
NITROMETHANE ‘SOLID’ EXPLOSIVES
——————————-
2 parts
nitromethane
5 parts ammonium nitrate (solid powder)
Soak for 3-5 min. when done,
store in an air-tight container. This is
supposed to be 30% more powerful than dynamite
containing 60%
nitroglycerin, and has 30% more brisance.
PICRIC ACID
———–
Phenol is melted and then mixed with a concentrated solution of
sulfuric acid. The mixture is constatnly stirred and kept at a steady
temperature of 95
degrees Celsius for four to six hours depending on the
quantities of phenol used. After this,
the acid-phenol solution is diluted
with distilled water, and an equal excess amount of nitric
acid is added.
The mixture of the nitric acid will cause an immediate reaction, which will
importantly the
temperature of the solution must not go above 110 degrees
Celsius. Ten or so minutes after the
addition of nitric acid the picric
acid will be fully formed and you can drain off the excess
acid. It should
be filtered and washed in the same manner as above until little or no acid
should be
allowed to partially dry. Picric acid is a more powerful
explosive than TNT, but it has its
disadvantages. It is more expensive to
make, and it best handled in a wet 10 percent distilled
water form as
pictic becomes very unstable when completely dry. This compound should
never be put into direct contact with metal, since instantly on contact
there is a formation
of metal picrate, which explodes spontaneously upon
formation.
Making Picric Acid
from Aspirin
——————————-
Picric Acid can be used as a booster
explosive in detonators, a high
explosive charge, or as an intermediate to preparing lead
picrate.
Material Required
—————–
Aspirin tablets (5 grains per
tablet)
Alcohol, 95% pure
Sulfuric acid, concentrated, (if battery acid, boil until
white fumes
disappear)
Potassium Nitrate (see elsewhere in this Cookbook)
Water
Paper towels
Canning jar, 1 pint
Rod (glass or wood)
Glass
containers
Ceramic or glass dish
Cup
Teaspoon
Tablespoon
Pan
Heat source
Tape
Procedure:
———
1) Crush 20 aspirin
tablets in a glass container. Add 1 teaspoon of water
and work into a paste.
2) Add
approximately 1/3 to 1/2 cup of alcohol (100 millilitres) to the
aspirin paste; stir while
pouring.
3) Filter the alcohol-aspirin solution through a paper towel into another
glass container. Discard the solid left in the paper towel.
4) Pour the filtered solution into
a glass or ceramic dish.
5) Evaporate the alcohol and water from the solution by placing the
dish
into a pan of hot water. White powder will remain in the dish after
evaporation.
NOTE: The water in the pan should be at hot bath temperature, not boiling,
approx. 160 to 180 degress farenheit. It should not burn the hands.
6) Pour 1/3
cup (80 millilitres) of concentrated sulfuric acid into a
canning jar. Add the white powder
to the sulfuric acid.
7) Heat canning jar of sulfuric acid in a pan of simmering hot water
bath
for 15 minutes; then remove jar from the bath. Solution will turn to a
yellow-orange color.
Add 3 level teaspoons (15 grams) of potassium nitrate in three
portions
to the yellow-orange solution; stir vigorously during additions. Solution
will turn red, then back to a yellow-orange color.
9) Allow the solution to cool to ambient
room temperature while stirring
occasionally.
10) Slowly pour the solution, while
stirring, into 1-1/4 cup (300
millilitres) of cold water and allow to cool.
11) Filter
the solution through a paper towel into a glass container. Light
yellow particles will
collect on the paper towel.
12) Wash the light yellow particles with 2 tablespoons (25
millilitres) of
water. Discard the waste liquid in the container.
13) Place articles in
ceramic dish and set in a hot water bath, as in step
5, for 2 hours.
TETRYL
A small amount of dimethyllaniline is dissolved in an excess amount
of
concentrated sulfuric acid. This mixture is now added to an equal
amount of nitric acid. The
new mixture is kept in an ice bath, and is well
stirred. After about five minutes, the
tetrylis filtered and then washed
in cold water. It is now boiled in fresh water, which
contains a small
amount of sodium bicarbonate. This process acts to neutralize any
remaining acid. The washings are repeated as many times as necessary
according to the litmus
paper tests. When you are satisfied that the tetryl
is free of acids, filter it from the water
and allowed to dry. When tetryl
is detonated, it reacts in very much the same way as TNT.
PLASTIC EXPLOSIVE FROM BLEACH
—————————–
This
explosive is a Potassium chlorate explosive. This explosive and
explosives of similar
composition were used in WWI as the main explosive
filler in grenades, land mines, and morter
rounds used by French, German,
and some other forces involved in that conflict.
These explosives are relatively safe to manufacture. The procedures
in the following paragraph
can be dangerous if you don’t take special care.
One should strive to make sure these
explosives are free from sulfur,
sulfides, and picric acid. The presence of these compounds
result in
mixtures that are or can become highly sensitive and possibly decompose
explosively while in storage. One should never store home made explosives,
make enough for
what you need at the time. YOU NEVER KNOW HOW STABLE IT IS
UNTIL IT BLOWS!
The
manufacter of this explosive from bleach is given just as an
expediant method. This method of
manufacturing potassium chlorate is not
economical due to the amount of energy used to boil
the solution and cause
the "Dissociation" reaction to take place. The procedure does
work and
yields a relatively pure and a sulfur, sulfide free product.
These
explosives are very cap sensitive and require only a #3 cap for
instigating detonation.
To manufacture potassium chlorate from bleach, (5.25% sodium
hypochlorite
solution), obtain a heat source, hot-plate, stove , etc., a
battery hydrometer, a large pyrex
or enameled steel container, a triple
beam balance (to weigh chemicals), and some potassium
chloride, (sold as
salt substitute).
Take one gallon of bleach and place it in
the container and begin
heating it. While this solution heats, weigh out 63 grams potassium
boil and boil
until when checked with a hydrometer the reading is 1.3, (if
battery hydrometer is used, it
should read FULL charge).
When the reading is 1.3 take the solution and let it cool in
the
refrigerator until it is between room temperature and 0 degrees Celsius.
Filter out
the crystals that have formed and save them. Boil this solution
again and cool as before.
Filter and save the crystals.
Take these crystals that have been saved and mix them
with distilled
water in the following proportions: 56 grams per 100 mililiters distilled
water. Heat that solution until it boils and allow to cool. Filter the
solution and save the
crystals the form upon cooling. This p rocess of
purification is called fractional
crystalization. These crystals should be
relatively pure potassium chlorate.
Powder these to the consistancy of face powder and heat gently to
drive off all moisture.
Melt five parts vaseline and five parts wax. Dissolve this in white
gasoline, (camp
stove gasoline), and pour this liquid on 90 parts potassium
chlorate, (the powdered crystals
from above), in a plastic bowl.
Knead this liquid into the potassium chlorate until
intimately mixed.
Allow all the gasoline to evaporate.
Place this explosive in a
cool dry place. Avoid friction, sulfur,
sulfides, and phophorous compounds. This explosive is
best molded to the
desired shape and density of 1.3 grams in a cube and dipped in wax till
velocity.
RDX
—
THE PRODUCTION OF RDX IS VERY DANGEROUS IF YOU DON’T KNOW WHAT
YOU ARE
DOING. DO NOT ATTEMPT ANY OF THIS UNLESS YOU HAVE TAKEN SAFTEY PRECAUTIONS.
been searching for
the perfect plastique explosives to be used in
demolition work. This search lead to the
development of the ‘C’ composition
plastique explosives. Of this group C-4 being the lastest
formulation
that has been readily adopted by the armed forces. This formulation was
preceded by C-3, C-2, and C. In this series of articles, I will cover
all these explosives in
their chronological progression as they were
developed and standardized by the armed forces.
All these explosives are
cyclonite (R.D.X.) base with various plastisizing agents used to
achieve
the desired product. This plastisizer, usually composes 7%-20% of the
total
weight of the plastique. Cyclotrimethylenetrinittrime or cyclonite is
manufactured in bulk by
the nitration of hexamethylenetetramine,
(methenamine, hexamine, etc., etc.) with strong red
100% nitric acid. The
hardest part of this reaction is obtaining this red nitric acid. It
will
most likely have to be made. More on this later. Hexamine or methenamine
can
usually be bought in bulk quantities or hexamine fuel bars fo r camp
stoves can be used but
they end up being very expensive. To use the fuel
bars the need to be powered before hand. The
hexamine can also be made
with common ammonia water (30%) and the commonly avaliable 36%
formaldehyde
solution. To make this componant place 185 grams of clear ammonia water
in
a shallow pyrex dish. To this add 500 ml. of the formaldehyde solution
to the ammonia water.
Allow this to evaporate and when the crystals are
all that remains in the pan place the pan in
the oven on the lowest heat
that the oven has. This should be done only for a moment or so to
drive off
any remaining water. These crystals are scraped up and placed in a airtight
jar to store them until they are used. To make the red nitric acid you
will need to buy a
retort with a ground glass stopper. In the retort place
32 grams sulfuric acid, (98%-100%),
and to this add 68 grams of potassium
nitrate or 58 grams of sodium nitrate. Gently heating
this retort will
generate a red gas called nitrogen trioxide. THIS GAS IS HIGHLY POISONOUS
VENTILATION. This nitric
acid that is formed will collect in the neck of
the retort and form droplets that will run
down the inside of the neck of
the retort and should be caught in a beaker cooled by being
surrounded by
ice water.
This should be heated till no more collects in the neck
of the retort
and the nitric acid quits dripping out of the neck into the beaker. This
acid should be stored until enough acid is generated to produce the
required size batch which
is determined by the person producing the
explosive. Of course the batch can be larger or
smaller but the same
rations should be maintained. To make R.D.X. place 550 grams of the
nitric
acid produced by the above procedure in a 1000 ml. beaker in a salted bath.
50
grams of hexamine, (methenamine) is added in small portions making sure
that the temperature
of the acid DOES NOT GO ABOVE 30 DEGREES CELCIUS.
This temperature can be monitored by placing
a thermometer directly in the
acid mixture. During this procedure a vigorous stirring should
be
maintained. If the temperature approaches 30 degrees, IMMEDIATLY STOP THE
ADDITION OF
THE HEXAMINE until the temperature drops to an acceptable
level. After the addition is
complete continue the stirring and allow the
temperature to drop to 0 degrees celcius and
allow it to stay there for 20
minutes coninuing the vigorous stirring. After the 20 minutes
are up, pour
this acid-hexamine mixture into 1000 ml. of finely crushed ice and water.
Crystals should form and are filtered out of the liquid. The crystals that
are filtered out
are R.D.X. and will need to have all traces of the acid
removed. To remove this trace of acid,
first wash these crystals by putting
them in ice water and shaking and refiltering. These
crystals are then
placed in a little boiling water and filtered. Place them in some warm
water and check the acidity for the resultant suspension with litmus paper.
You want it to
read between 6 and 7 on the Ph scale. If there
is still acid in these crystals reboil them in
fresh water until the acid
is removed and the litmus paper shows them between 6 and 7, (the
closer to
7 the better). To be safe these crystals should be stored water wet until
ready for use. THESE CRYSTALS ARE A VERY HIGH EXPLOSIVE AND SHOULD BE
TREATED WITH THE RESPECT
THEY DESERVE! This explosive is much more powerful
than T.N.T. To use, these will need to be
dryed for some manufaturing
processes in the next few articles. To dry these crystals, place
them in a
pan and spread them out and allow the water to evaporate off them until the
are completely dry. This explosive will detonate in this dry form when
pressed into a mold to
a density of 1.55 grams cubed, at a velocity of 8550
M/second!
COMPOSITION
‘C’
—————
All of the type ‘C’ plastic explosives (that includes C-2,
C-3, and
C-4) are exceedingly powerful and should be used with utmost care.
This
explosive is just a copy of a British explosive that was adopted
early in WWII. This explosive
is the choice explosive of the type ‘C’
compounds because of its relative ease of manufacture
and the easy
aquisition of the plastizer compound. This explosive was available in
standard demolition blocks.
This explosive was standardized and adopted in the
following
composition:
R.D.X…………………….. 88.3%
Heavy mineral
oil………….. 11.1%
Lecithin………………….. 00.6%
(all percentages
are by weight)
In this composition, the lecithin acts to prevent the formation of
large
crystals of R.D.X. which would increase the sensitivity of the explosive.
This
explosive has a good deal of power and is relatively non-toxic
(except when ingested).
It is also plastic from 0-40 degrees celcius. Above 40 degrees the
explosive undergoes
extrudation and becomes gummy although its explosive
properties go relatively unimpaired.
Below 0 degrees celcius it becomes
brittle and its cap sensitivity is lessened
considerably.
Manufacturing this explosive can be done two ways. First being to
dissolve the 11.7% plastisizing in unleaded gasoline and mixing with the
R.D.X. and allowing
the gasoline to evaporate until the mixture is free of
all gasoline.
The second
method being the simple kneading of the plastisizing compound
into the R.D.X. until a uniform
mixture is obtained.
This explosive should be stored in a cool-dry place. If properly
made
the plastique should be very stable in storage even if stored at elevated
temparatures for long periods of time.
It should be very cap sensitive. A booster will
be a good choice,
especially if used below 0 degrees celcius. This detonates at a velocity
R.D.X. in Details
—————–
R.D.X., also called
cyclonite, or composition C-1 (when mixed with
plasticisers) is one of the most valuable of
all military explosives. This is
because it has more than 150% of the power of T.N.T., and is
much easier to
detonate. It should not be used alone, since it can be set off by a not-too
but it is
still too sensitive to be used alone. R.D.X. can be made by the
surprisingly simple method
outlined hereafter. It is much easier to make in
the
home than all other high
explosives, with the possible exception of ammonium
nitrate.
MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
——— ———
hexamine 500 ml beaker
or
methenamine glass stirring
rod
fuel tablets (50 g)
funnel and filter paper
concentrated
nitric acid
(550 ml) ice bath container
(plastic bucket)
distilled water
centigrade
thermometer
table salt
blue litmus paper
ice
ammonium nitrate
1) Place the beaker in the ice bath, (see section 3.13, steps 3-4) and
carefully pour
550 ml of concentrated nitric acid into the beaker.
2) When the acid has cooled to below 20
degrees centigrade, add small amounts
of the crushed fuel tablets to the beaker.The
temperature will rise, and it
must be kept below 30 degrees centigrade, or dire consequences
could result.
Stir the mixture.
3) Drop the temperature below zero degrees centigrade,
either by adding more
ice and salt to the old ice bath, or by creating a new ice bath.Or,
ammonium
nitrate could be added to the old ice bath, since it becomes cold when it is
put in water. Continue stirring the mixture, keeping the temperature below
zero degrees
centigrade for at least twenty minutes
4) Pour the mixture into a liter of crushed ice.Shake
and stir the mixture,
and allow it to melt.Once it has melted, filter out the crystals, and
5) Place the crystals into one half a liter of boiling
distilled water.Filter
the crystals, and test them with the blue litmus paper. Repeat steps 4
and 5
until the litmus paper remains blue.This will make the crystals more stable
and
safe.
6) Store the crystals wet until ready for use. Allow them to dry completely
using
them. R.D.X. is not stable enough to use alone as an explosive.
7) Composition C-1 can be made
by mixing 88.3% R.D.X. (by weight) with 11.1%
mineral oil, and 0.6% lecithin. Kneed these
material together in a plastic
bag. This is a good way to desensitize the explosive.
H.M.X. is a mixture of T.N.T. and R.D.X.; the ratio is 50/50, by weight.
it is not as
sensitive, and is almost as powerful as straight R.D.X.
9) By adding ammonium nitrate to the
crystals of R.D.X. after step 5, it should
be possible to desensitize the R.D.X. and increase
its power, since ammonium
nitrate is very insensitive and powerful. Sodium or potassium
nitrate could
also be added; a small quantity is sufficient to stabilize the R.D.X.
10)R.D.X. detonates at a rate of 8550 meters/second when it is compressed to a
density of 1.55
g/cubic cm.
COMPOSITION C-2 AND C-3
———————–
These are highly undesirable because of certain trait each has and they
don’t produce as much
power as ‘C’ and ‘C-4′ compounds.
It is not recommended you make these two types
of plastique, this part
was written for imformatative purposes only.
Composition
‘C-2′ is harder to make than ‘C-4′ and is TOXIC TO HANDLE.
It is also unstable in storage and
is poor choice for home explosive
manufacture. It also has a lower detonation velocity than
either ‘C-4′ or
‘C-3′.
It is manufactured in a steam jacketed (heated) melting
kettle using the
same procedure used in incorperation of ‘C-3′. Its composition is as
follows:
R.D.X………………. 80%
Mononitrotolulene……. 5%
Dinitrotolulene……… 5%
T.N.T. guncotton…….. 5%
Dimethylformide……… 5%
(see below for rest of recipe)
‘C-3′ was developed to eliminate the
undesirable aspects of ‘C-2′.
It was standardized and adopted by the military as following
composition:
R.D.X……………. 77%
Mononitrotolulene…. 16%
Dinitrotolulene…… 5%
Tetryl…………… 1%
T.N.T. guncotton….. 1%
‘C-3′ is manufactured by mixing the plastisizing agent in a steam
jacketed melting kettle
equipped with a mechanical stirring attachment.
The kettle is heated to 90-100 degrees celcius
and the stirrer is
activated. Water wet R.D.X. is added to the plastisizing agent and the
been driven
off. Remove the heat source but continue to stir the mixture
until it has cooled to room
temperature.
This explosive is as sensitive to impact as is T.N.T. Storage at 65
degrees celcius for four months at a relative humidity of 95% does not
impair it’s explosive
properties.
‘C-3′ is 133% as good as an explosive as T.N.T. The major drawback of
‘C-3′ is its volatility which causes it to lose 1.2% of its weight although
the explosives
detonation properties are not affected.
Water does not affect explosives preformance.
Thus it is very good for
under-water demolition uses and would be a good choice for such an
When stored at 77 degrees celcius considerable extrudation takes
place.
It will become hard at -29 degrees celcius and is hard to detonate at this
temperature.
While this explosive is not unduely toxic, it should be handled with
care as it contains aryl-nitro compounds which are absorbed through the
skin.
It will reliably take detonation from a #6 blasting cap but the use of a
booster is
always suggested. This explosive has a great blast effect and
was avaliable in standard
demolition blocks. Its detonation velocity is
approximately 7700 MPS.
GELATIN DYNAMITE
—————-
Below are five different ways to make a very
common explosive. Dynamite.
1) Nitro…………………… 12%
Guncotten……………….. .5%
Amonium nitrate………….. 87.5%
2)
Nitro…………………… 88%
Potassium nitrate………… 5%
Tetryl………………….. 7%
3) Nitro…………………… 24%
Guncotten……………….. 1%
Amonium nitrate………….. 75%
4)
Nitro…………………… 75%
Guncotten……………….. 5%
Potassium
nitrate………… 15%
Wood meal……………….. 5%
5)
Nitro…………………… 80%
Ethalyne glycol dinitrate…. 20%
After
making this stuff, pack it in a cardboard tube and expoxy each end.
But be careful for it
might be a little unstable because of the
nitroglycerine (nitro). Before it is totally dry
stick a good fuse in one
of the ends. Light, Throw, and run as if your life depended on it!
Which
in a way it does.
PEROXYACETONE
————-
Peroxyacetone is VERY flamable & has been reported to be shock sensitive.
Materials:
4ml of Acetone
4ml of 30% Hydrogen Peroxide
4 of drops conc.
hydrochloric acid
150mm test tube
Add 4ml acetone and 4ml hydrogen peroxide to
the test tube. Then add 4
drops concentrated hydrochloric acid. In 10-20 minutes a white solid
should
begin to appear. If no change is observed, warm the test tube in a water
bath at
40 Celsius. Allow the reaction to continue for two hours. Swirl the
slurry and filter it.
Leave out on filter paper to dry for at least two
hours. To ignite, light a candle tied to a
meter stick and light it (while
staying at LEAST a meter away).
CELLULOSE NITRATE
(GUNCOTTON)
—————————–
Commonly known as Smokeless powder,
Nitrocellulose is exactly that it
does not give off smoke when it burns.
Materials:
70ml of concentrated sulfuric acid
30ml of concentrated nitric acid
250ml of sodium bicarbonate
250ml beaker
ice bath
tongs
paper towels
Place 250ml beaker in the ice bath, add 70ml sulfuric acid, 30
ml nitric
acid. Divide cotton into .7g pieces. With tongs, immerse each piece in the
acid solution for 1 minute. Next, rinse each piece in 3 successive baths of
500ml water. Use
fresh water for each piece. Then immerse in 250ml sodium
bicarbonate. If it bubbles, rinse in
water once more until no bubbling
occurs. Squeeze dry and spread on paper towels to dry
overnight.
NITROGEN TRIIODIDE
——————
This is very
shock sensitive when it comes to being agitated, moved,
dropped, touched, breathed on… etc.
For one thing I hope you don’t do
any of those. This has a high explosive value to it. It can
move a lot of
mass with just a little compound. I have heard so many different ways to
make this, and this is the best one. I think.
Take a medium glass and fill it up with
ammonium hydroxide (household
ammonia). Take some iodine crystals and pour about a fourth of
the glass
full. Wait about 30 minutes to an hour then pour off the liquid
remaining.
Now, what you have in the glass it called nitrogen tri-iodide,
which is very sensitive to
touch. But, it is perfectly save when it is
wet. Thats why you do not let it dry until you
want to use it. To
detonate it just pour some of the wet stuff on an object and wait till
pack a wallop!
NITROGLYCERIN
————-
Nitroglycerin is a very high
explosive. It is used all around the
world to do many different types of jobs. To make nitro
here is what you
have to do:
By weight, one part of glycerin is nitrated with 6
parts of mixed acid.
The mixed acid is composed of 40% nitric and 60% sulfuric acid. The
sulfuric acid is slowly added to the nitric acid with constant stirring.
Never mix them the
other way round for they will splatter. Each part of
glycerin will yield 2.3 parts of
nitroglycerin. The temperature when
adding the glycerin to the acids should never go above 25
degrees
centigrade. If it does or if red fumes appear, the whole mess should be
dumped
into cold water fast. Do not take this as an encouragement to make
nitroglycerin. It is a
dangerous procedure to mix all these types of acids
together and can easily be lost control
of.
MAKING SULFURIC ACID
——————–
No, your not
really MAKING sulfuric acid, you are just making it more
concentrated. All you need to do is
to take a old car battery and dump all
of the acid into a GLASS bowl that can be set on a
stove. Do not use metal
for unwanted occurances could come about. Just take the old acid and
boil
it until you see white fumes come out. When you do immediately turn off
the heat
and let it cool. One thing, DO NOT use a gas stove. Use an
electric hot plate & make it
outside because the fumes are very poisonous.
T.N.T (Trinitrotoulene)
————————–
Mix 170 parts toulene with 100 parts acid. The acid being
composed of:
2 parts 70% nitric acid and 3 parts 100% sulfuric acid. Mix below 30
degrees. Set this for 30 minutes and let seperate. Take the mononitro-
toluene and mix with
100 parts of it with 215 parts of acid. This acid
being composed of: 1 part pure nitric acid
and 2 parts pure sulfuric acid.
Keep the temperature at 60 -70 degrees while they are slowly
mixed. Raise
temperature to 90 - 100 degrees and stir for 30 minutes.
The
dinitrotoulene is seperated and mixed with 100 parts of this with
225 parts of 20% oleum,
which is 100% sulfuric acid with 20% extra
dissolved sulfur trioxide, and 64 parts nitric
acid. Heat at 95 degrees
for 60 minutes and then at 120 degrees for 90 minutes. Seperate the
trini-
trotoluene and slosh it around in hotwater. Purify the powder by soaking
it in
benzene.
MERCURY FUMLMINATE
——————
Mix 2 parts of
Nitric Acid with 2 part alcohol (any kind) and 1 part
mercury. This is very shock sensitive
explosive. Be careful, Nitric Acid
is an unstable acid. It will react to agitation.
MERCURY FUMLMINATE II
———————
Mercury fulminate is
perhaps the oldest known initiating compound. It can be detonated by either heat or shock. Even the
action of dropping a crystal of fulminate causes it to explode. A person making this material would
us the following procedure:
MATERIALS
Mercury (5g)
Concentrated Nitric Acid (35
mL)
Ethyl Alcohol (30 mL)
Distilled Water
100 mL Beaker (2)
Adjustable
heat source
Blue litmus paper
Funnel and Filter Paper
In one beaker, mix 5g
mercury with 35 mL of concentrated nitric acid using the glass rod. Slowly heat the mixture until
the mercury is disolved, which is when the solution turns green and boils. Place 30 mL of ethyl
alcohol into the second beaker and slowly and carefully add all the contents of the first beaker to
it. Red and/or brown fumes should appear. These fumes are toxic and flammable. After thrity or forty
minutes, the fumes should turn white, showing that the reaction is near complete. Carefully filter
the crystals of mercury fulminate from the liquid solution. Dispose of the solution in a safe place.
It is corrosive and toxic. Wash the crystals several times in distilled water to remove as much
excess acid as possible. Test the crystals with the litmus paper until they are neutral. This will
be when the litmus paper stays blue when it touches the crystals. Allow the crystals to dry and
store them in a safe place, far from explosive or flammable material.
MERCURY
FUMLMINATE II
———————
MERCURY FULMINATE II
Mercury
fulminate is perhaps one of the oldest known initiating
compounds. It can be detonated by
either heat or shock, which would make it of
infinite value to a terrorist. Even the action of
dropping a crystal of the
fulminate causes it to explode. A person making this material would
probably
use the following procedure:
MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
———
———
5 g mercury glass stirring rod funnel and filter paper
35 ml
concentrated 100 ml beaker (2)
nitric acid
ethyl alcohol (30 ml) adjustable heat
source
distilled water blue litmus paper
funnel and filter paper
mercury fulminate.
Methyl alcohol may prevent mercury fulminate from forming.
Mercury thermometers are becoming a
rarity, unfortunately. They may be
hard to find in most stores as they have been superseded by
alcohol and other
less toxic fillings. Mercury is also used in mercury switches, which are
be kept in
the thermometer or mercury switch until used. It gives off mercury
vapors which will cause
brain damage if inhaled. For this reason, it is a
good idea not to spill mercury, and to
always use it outdoors. Also, do not
get it in an open cut; rubber gloves will help prevent
this.
1) In one beaker, mix 5 g of mercury with 35 ml of concentrated nitric acid,
2) Slowly heat the mixture until the mercury is dissolved, which is
when the
solution turns green and boils.
3) Place 30 ml of ethyl alcohol into the second
beaker, and slowly and
carefully add all of the contents of the first beaker to it. Red
and/or
brown fumes should appear. These fumes are toxic and flammable.
4) After thirty
to forty minutes, the fumes should turn white, indicating that
the reaction is near
completion. After ten more minutes, add 30 ml of the
distilled water to the solution.
5)
Carefully filter out the crystals of mercury fulminate from the liquid
solution. Dispose of
the solution in a safe place, as it is corrosive and
toxic.
6) Wash the crystals several
times in distilled water to remove as much excess
acid as possible. Test the crystals with the
litmus paper until they are
neutral. This will be when the litmus paper stays blue when it
touches
the wet crystals
7) Allow the crystals to dry, and store them in a safe place,
far away from
any explosive or flammable material.
This procedure can also be
done by volume, if the available mercury
cannot be weighed. Simply use 10 volumes of nitric
acid and 10 volumes of
ethanol to every one volume of mercury.
M-80’s
————
MATERIALS:
1 part powdered sulfur
1 part powdered potassium
2 parts powdered perchlorate
cardboard tube
glue
fuse
Mix the
powdered chemicals together. Note: Do not substitue potassium chlorate for potassium perchlorate.
Potassium chlorate will explode when mixed with sulfur. Seal he bottom of the cardboard tube with
glue. Pour the powdered mixture into the cardboard tube. Glue the top of the tube hut and insert the
fuse while the glue is still wet. Light the fuse and throw.
Nitrogen Trichloride
——————–
Nitrogen trichloride, also klnown as chloride of azode, is an oily
yellow liquid. It explodes violently when heated above 60 degrees celsius, or when it comes into
contact with an open flame or spark. It is simple to produce.
MATERIALS:
Ammonium
nitrate (5 teaspoons)
Hydrochloric acid
Potassium permanganate
Beakers (2)
Water
Eyedropped
Tape
In a beaker diossolve
about 5 teaspoons of ammonium nitrate into water. Do not put so much ammonium nitrate into the
solution that some of it remains undissolved in the bottom of the beaker.
Collect a quanitty
of chlorine gas in a second beaker by mixing hydrochloric acid with potassium poermanganate in a
alrge flask with a stopper and glass pipe.
Place the beaker containing the chlorine gas
upside down on top of the beaker containing the ammonium nitrate solution, and tape the beakers
together. Gently heat the bottom beaker. When this is done, oily yellow droplets will begin to form
on the surface of the solution, and sink down to the bottom. At this time, remove the heat source
immediately.
Alternatively, the chlorine can be bubbled through the ammonium gas solution,
rather than collecting gas in a beaker, but this requires timing and a stand to hold the beaker and
test tube.
The chlorine gas can also be mized with anhydrous ammonia gas, by gently heating a
flask filled with clear household ammonia. Place the glass tubes from the chlorine-generating flask
and the tube from the ammonium gathering flask in another flask the conatins water.
Collect
the yellow droplets with an eyedropper and use them immediately, since nitrogen trichloride
dissolves in 24 hours.
Crater Makers
————-
Crater Makers
are just what they sound like, they make big craters where ever you put them. These are pretty
simple to make if you have a hobby store around, or even if you don’t you should be able to find the
parts. Get these things: 1 CO2 Cartridge 2 D-size estes rocket engines 1 Funnel 1 Nail 1 Solar
Igniter 1 Quick Drying Glue 7 Meters of paired wire (speaker wire works good) 1 6, 9 or 12 Volt
Battery 1) Okay, first you’ll need to empty the CO2 cartridge. If you have a CO2 BB gun, then you’re
in lick cause you probably already have a bunch of empty cartridges. If not, then jab the nail in
the top of the CO2 and let the CO2 leak out, just be carefull. 2) Make the hole bigger by jamming
the nail in the top. Don’t make the hold too bug cause it’ll act more like a rocket than a bomb if
it is. 3) Now cut open the rocket engines. You’ll see a clump of clay which can be tossed out and a
clump off powder. That’s the part you want. Grind it up using a hammer or something. If you have
commercial gun powder, you can use that instead of grinding up the rockets. 4) Take the funnel and
put it in the top of the CO2 cartridge and pour all the powder that will fit into it. When you think
it’s full, tap it on the ground to get it to sink to the bottom and continue filling. 5) Cut the
paper safety on the solar igniter and straighten the wires. Pour some glue on it, just don’t get any
on the head. Leave it to dry for a few minutes. 6) Put the igniter in the crater maker with the two
wires sticking out. Glue the wires to the CO2 cartridge. Now go outside (not in your house moron)
and find someplace where you want to detonate this thing. Connect the wire (speaker wire) to the
igniter. Go FAR FAR AWAY and connect the other end of the wires to the battery. Watch it BLOW!
Disclaimer: Don’t actually do this because it could kill you! This file was meant for educational
use only and none of the steps in this file should be followed! I am not responsible if you get
killed or kill someone with this! This file passed through DYNOMITE BBS (519)256-2428, the Official
BBS of Master Mayhem!
Blasting Gel-ignite
——————-
Disclaimer:
This stuff is DANGEROUS!!! This file is for information purposes only and is not to be thought of as
an endorsement for the making of this blasting gelignite. If you do make it and blow your face
(head, arms, legs, feet, hands, etc.) off you deserve it because this stuff is just downright
dangerous!! (I have a friend who had some blow up in his face and he has nice third degree burns all
over his face which means fun stuff like skin grafts, etc.)
The Best Blasting Gelignite.. To
try and tell you about the potency and danger of this stuff, I want you to know that one time some
friends of mine and I (Disk Slasher, Romper Stomper) were very careful and made some of this stuff.
After it was made, we were scared as shit of it and carried it on a ten foot pole. (literally!) Near
to my house there is a club that has a Coke machine outside. So we went over there at about 3 in the
morning and stuck this stuff all over the Coke Machine and set it off. The whole Coke Machine damn
near split in two (well anyway the front door was blown off) and the Cokes and money came spilling
out We helped ourselves to both and got the hell out of there which was good because the police and
fire department were there in about 15 minutes because all the people around that the blast had
waken up had called them because they thought there was a fire or something. So if you make this
stuff (Which we don’t endorse you doing) BE CAREFUL!!!!!!
The Recipe:
Note:
None of these items are too hard to get but you damn well better not think that this stuff is not
powerful because of that. if you think that, you had better get prepared to lose part of your body.
Further Note: A step marked with a star ‘*’ should be done behind a blast shield of some
kind. We used a big sheet of plexiglass.
Stuff you need
1) 50 parts water
2) 20
parts sugar (provides oxygen)
3) 1 part baking soda
4) 5 parts Corn Flakes (I’m not
kidding, this is VITAL as a stabilizing agent)
5) 30 parts Charcoal (Very finely ground
Fishtank charcoal- No Barbeque charcoal)
6) 10 parts Sulphur (You can sometimes get this at
grocery stores [especially Kroger] in the drug section)
7) 30 parts Saltpetre (You can also
get this at grocery stores sometimes. Kroger is the only one I know of but ther might be others. get
it in the drug section.)
A Jar of Vaseline
The Actions…
1) Get a deep
metal pan to cook over the stove on and put the water in it. Stir in the sugar until it all
dissolves. if you can’t get all of the sugar to dissolve, add more water until all of the sugar has
dissolved. Now stir in the baking soda until it dissolves. if you can’t get all of the baking soda
to dissolve, don’t worry about it, just leave it.
2) Heat the pan over a medium flame (You
don’t need to stir) until it begins to boil. Now stir in the corn flakes until they are all in water
and the whole thing begins to look like hot breakfast cereal. let the mixture sit on the burner
unt
Making Sodium or Potassium Chlorate
———————————–
Making Sodium or Potassium Chlorate
Ingredients:
* salt water (ocean water, or
just tap water with salt)
* 2 carbon or lead rods (try hardware or surplus stores)
*
sulfuric acid (I’ll bet other acids will work, though, or maybe even _no_ acid)
* DC power
supply (motor vehicle alternator, perhaps)
* glass jar
* heavy cloth
* big pan
or tray
* wires
Procedure:
* Put the salt water in the jar
* Add the
acid to the water; stir
* Attach the wires to the DC power supply
* Attach the other
ends of the wires to the carbon rods
* Put the rods in the water, several inches apart
* Let the power supply run for about 6hours (doesn’t have to be continuous)
* Shut off the
power supply; filter the water through the cloth into the
* Let the liquid in the tray
evaporate; sodium chlorate crystals will form in the tray
BE CAREFUL! The sodium chlorate is
sensitive to spark and flame. Instead of ordinary table salt (NaCl, or sodium chloride) in the salt
water, you can substitute No-Salt (KCl, or potassium chloride); this will result in potassium
chlorate, which is more powerful, but also more sensitive. BE CAREFUL! I’m even willing to gamble
you might be able to do it without the carbon rods, if you can’t get those. Again, I haven’t done it
myself, but the Army says it works.
Chlorinating Compound (H.T.H.)
—————————–
This explosive is a chlorate explosive from bleach.This
method of production of potassium or sodium chlorate is easier and
yields a more pure
product than does the plastique explosive from
bleach process.In this reaction the H.T.H.
(calcium hypo-chlorate
CaC10) is mixed with water and heated with either sodium chlorate
The latter of these salts
is the salt of choice due to the easy
crystallization of the potassium chlorate.This mixture
will need
to be boiled to ensure complete reaction of the ingredients.
Obtain some
H.T.H. swimming pool chlorination compound or
equivalent (usually 65% calcium
hypochlorite).As with the bleach
is also a dissociation reaction.In a large pyrex glass or
enameled steel container place 1200 g H.T.H. and 220 g potassium
chloride or 159 g
sodium chloride.Add enough boiling water to
dissolve the powder and boil this solution.A
chalky substance
(calcium chloride) will be formed.When the formation of this
chalky
substance is no longer formed the solution is filtered while
boiling hot.If potassium
chloride was used, potassium chlorate
will be formed.This potassium chlorate will drop out or
crystalize as the clear liquid left after filtering cools.These
crystals are filtered
out when the solution reaches room
temperature.If the sodium chloride salt was used this
clear
filtrate (clear liquid after filtration) will need to have all
water
evaporated.This will leave crystals which should be saved.
These crystals should be heated in
a slightly warm oven in a
pyrex dish to drive off all traces of water (40-75 degree C).
If the sodium chloride salt is
used in the initial step the
crystallization is much more time consuming.The potassium
chloride is the salt to use as the resulting product will
crystalize out of the solution as
it cools.The powdered and
completely dry chlorate crystals are kneaded together with vaseline
in a plastique bowl.ALL CHLORATE BASED EXPLOSIVES ARE SENSITIVE
TO FRICTION, AND
SHOCK, AND THESE BETTER BE AVOIDED.If sodium
chloride is used in this explosive, it will have
a tendency to cake
and has a slightly lower detonation velocity.This explosive is
composed of the following:
potassium or sodium chlorate 90%
vaseline 10%
The detonation velocity can be raised to a slight extent by
the addition of 2-3%
aluminum powder substituted for 2-3% of the
vaseline.The addition of this aluminum will give
this explosive
a bright flash if set off at night which will ruin night vision for
a
short while.The detonation velocity of this explosive is
approximately 3200 m/sec for the
potassium salt and 2900 m/sec for
the sodium salt based explosive.
Plastique
Explosive From Table Salt
———————————–
This explosive is
perhaps the most easily manufactured of the
chlorate based explosives.Sodium chlorate is the
product because
rock salt is the major starting ingredient.This process would
work
equally as well if potassium chloride were used instead of the
sodium chloride (rock
salt).The sodium chlorate is the salt I
will cover due to the relatively simple acquisition
of the main
ingredient.The resulting explosive made from this process would
serve as a
good cheap blasting explosive and will compare favorably
with 30% straight dynamite in power
and blasting efficiency.This
explosive can be considered the same as 30% straight dynamite in
all charge computation.These explosives and similar compositions
were used to some
extent in WWI by European forces engaged in that
conflict.It was used as a grenade and land
mine filler.It’s
only drawback is it’s hygroscopic nature (tendency to absorb
atmospheric moisture).These explosives also have a relatively
critical loading density.They
should be used at a loading density
of 1.3 g/cc.If this density is not maintained, unreliable
or
incomplete detonation will take place.These short comings are
easily over come by
coating the finished explosive products with
molten wax and loading this explosive to the
proper density.This
explosive is not good for shaped charge use due to it’s low
detonation rate (2900 m/sec).The major part of the manufacture of
this explosive from rock
salt is the cell reaction where D.C.
current changes the sodium chloride to chlorate by
adding oxygen by
electrolysis of a saturated brine solution.The reaction takes
place
as follows:
NaCl + 3H2O —-> NaClO3 + 3H2
In this reaction the
sodium chloride (NaCl) takes the waters’
oxygen and releases its hydrogen as a gas.This
explosive gas must
be vented away as sparks or open flame may very well cause a
tremendous explosion.This type of process or reaction is called
a ‘cell’ reaction.The cell
should be constructed of concrete or
stainless steel.I won’t give any definite sizes on the
cell’s
construction because the size is relative to the power source.
This cell would
have to be large enough to allow the brine to
circulate throughout the cell to insure as
uniform a temperature as
possible.
The speed of the reaction depends on two
variables.Current
density is a very important factor in the speed of the reaction.
The
advantages of high current densities are a faster and more
efficient reaction.The
disadvantages are that cooling is needed
to carry away excess heat and the more powerful
power sources are
very expensive.For small operations, a battery charger can be
used
(automotive).This is the example I will use to explain the
cell’s setup and operation (10 amp
12 volt).The current density
at the anode (+) and cathode (-) are critical.This density
should
be 50 amps per square foot at the cathode and 30 amps per square
foot at the
anode.For a 10 amp battery charger power source this
would figure out to be 5 5/16" by 5
5/16" for the cathode.The
anode would be 6 15/16" by 6 5/16".The anode is made
of graphite
or pressed charcoal and the cathode is made of steel plate (1/4").
These would need to be spaced relatively close together.This
spacing is done with some type
of nonconducting material such as
glass rods.This spacing can be used to control the
temperature to
some extent.The closer together they are, the higher the
temperature.These can be placed either horizontally or vertically
although vertical placement
of the anode and cathode would probably
be the ideal set up as it would allow the hydrogen to
escape more
readily.The anode would be placed at the bottom if placed
horizontally in
the cell so that the chlorine released could
readily mix with the sodium hydroxide formed at
the cathode above
it.As the current passes through, the cell chlorine is released
at
the anode and mixes with the sodium hydroxide formed at the
cathode.Hydrogen is released at
the cathode which should bubble
out of the brine.This gas is explosive when mixed with air
and
proper precautions should be taken.PROPER VENTILATION MUST BE
USED WITH THIS
OPERATION TO AVOID EXPLOSION.
Temperature control is left up to the builder of the cell.
during the reaction.This
can be done by the circulation of water
though the cell in pipes.But the easiest way would be
to get an
adjustable thermostatic switch adjusted to shut the power source
off until
the cell cools off.This temperature range could be from
59 degree shut off to a 53 degree
start up.An hour meter would be
used on the power source to measure the amount of time the
current
passes through the cell.If the water cooling coil design appeals
to the
manufacturer and an easily obtained cheap source of cool or
cold water is available,this
would be the quickest design to use.
Again a thermostatic type arrangement would be used to
meter the
cold cooling water through the cell.The cooling coils would best
be made of
stainless steel to overcome the corrosiveness of the
salts although this is not entirely
necessary.A thermostatic
valve would be set to open when the brine electrolyte was heated
most efficient method
and the waste heat could be used relatively
easily.
To run the cell, after the cell
has been constructed and the
concrete has been sealed and has set and cured for several
weeks,
is very simple.First to seal the concrete I suggest Cactus
Paint’s C P 200
series, two component epoxy paint, or an equivalent
product.To fill the cell place 454 G
sodium chloride in the cell
(rock salt is excellent here).Place four liters of distilled
anode and the cathode
completely with room to spare.Remember that
some of the water will be used in the
reaction.Thirty three grams
of muriatic acid (hydrochloric), which should be available at
the liquid in the cell.Be
careful when handling ANY acid!!!Then
seven grams of sodium dichromate and nine grams of
barium chloride
is added.The cell is then ready to run if the plates are
connected to
their respective cables.These cables are best made
of stainless steel (the most corrosion
resistant available).The
power supply is then hooked up and the cell is in operation.The
Any time the cell runs
it will be making hydrogen gas.THIS GAS IS
EXPLOSIVE WHEN MIXED WITH AIR AND ALL SPARKS,
FLAME, AND ANY SOURCE
OF IGNITION SHOULD BE KEPT WELL AWAY FROM THE CELL AND THIS CELL
SHOULD ONLY BE RUN WITH VERY GOOD VENTILATION.The steel plate
cathode should be hooked to the
negative side of the power source
and the anode hooked to the positive side.Again these are
hooked
to the power supply via stainless steel cables.This cell is then
run at the
proper temperature until 1800 amp hours pass through
(amount per pound of sodium chloride)
the electrolyte.The liquid
in the cell is then removed and placed in an enameled steel
container and boiled until crystals form on liquid.It is cooled
and filtered, the crystals
collected being saved.This is done
twice and the remaining liquid saved for the next cell
run.The
process will become easier as each run is made.It is a good idea
to keep
records on yields and varying methods to find out exactly
the best process and yield.To
purify these crystals place 200
grams in 100 ml distilled water.Boil the solution until
crystals
are seen on the surface.Let cool and filter as before.Save this
liquid for
the next cell run.These purified crystals are placed
in a pyrex dish and placed in the oven
at 50 degrees C for two
hours to drive off all remaining water.
The explosive is ready
to be made.The crystals or sodium
chlorate is ground to a powder of face powder
consistency.Ninety
grams of this sodium chlorate are kneaded with 10 grams of vaseline
until a uniform mixture is obtained.This explosive is sensitive
to shock, friction, and
heat.These should be avoided at all cost.
This explosive works best at a loading density of
1.3-1.4 G/cc.If
this explosive is not used at this density the detonation velocity
will be low and detonation will be incomplete.To load to a known
density measure the volume
of the container in which the explosive
is to be loaded.This can be done by pouring water out
of a
graduated cylinder until the container is filled.The total number
of ml will
equal the cc’s of the container.Multiply this number
times 1.3 and load that much explosive
(in grams of course) into
the container after the container has been dried of all water.
(plastique explosive from
bleach, plastique explosive from H.T.H.).
This is a good explosive that is cheap and
relatively powerful.
Gelatine From Anti-Freeze (diethelene glycol)
———————————————
This explosive is almost the same as the
nitro-gelatin formula
except it is supple and pliable between -10 and -20 degrees C.
Antifreeze is easier to obtain than glycerin and is usually
cheaper.It needs to be freed of
water before the manufacture and
this can be done by treating it with calcium chloride to the
antifreeze and checking with a hydrometer and continue to add
calcium chloride until
the proper reading is obtained.The
antifreeze is then filtered to remove the calcium chloride
from the
liquid.This explosive is superior to the nitro-gelatin formula in
that it is
easier to implement the IMR smokeless powder into the
explosive and that the 50/50 ether
ethyl alcohol can be done away
with.It is superior in that the formation of the precipitate
is
done very rapidly by the nitroethelene glycol.It’s detonation
properties are
practically the same as the nitro-gelatin formula.
Like the nitro-gelatin formula, it is
highly flammable and if
caught on fire the chances are good that the flame will progress to
detonation.In this explosive, the addition of 1% sodium carbonate
is a good idea to
reduce the chance of residual acid being present
in the final explosive.The following is a
slightly different
formula than the nitro-gelatin one:
Nitro-glycol 75%
Guncotton (IMR smokeless) 6%
Potassium nitrate 14%
Flour (as used in baking) 5%
In this process the 50/50 step is omitted.Mix the potassium
nitrate with the
nitroglycol.Remember that this nitroglycol is
just as sensitive to shock as is
nitroglycerin.The next step is
to mix in the flour and sodium carbonate.Mix these by kneading
with gloved hands until the mixture is uniform.This kneading
should be done gently and
slowly.The mixture should be uniform
when the IMR smokeless powder is added.Again this is
kneaded to
uniformity.Use this explosive as soon as possible.If it must be
stored,
store in a cool dry place (0-10 degrees C).This explosive
should detonate at 7600-7800
m/sec.These last two explosives are
very powerful and should be sensitive to a #6 blasting
cap or
equivalent.These explosives are dangerous and should not be made
unless the
manufacturer has had experience with this type compound.
The foolish and ignorant may as well
forget these explosives as
they won’t live to get to use them. Don’t get me wrong, these
for safety.Millions of
tons of nitroglycerin have been made and
used to manufacture dynamite and explosives of this
nature with
very few mishaps.Nitroglycerin and nitroglycol will kill and
their main
victims are the stupid and foolhardy.This explosive
compound is not to be taken lightly.If
there are any doubts,
DON’T!!!
Acetone Peroxide
—————-
5300 M/sec @ 1.18 G/cc
FRICTION
SENSITIVITY - Very sensitive. One of the more sensitive in this
book.
BEHAVIOR TO
FLAME - Burns violently and sometimes detonates even in small
quantities.
Acetone
peroxide is a powerful primary explosive. It, as with other
explosive peroxides, seems to be
very volatile. In standing 10 days at room
temperature, 50% of the sample will completely
volatilize. It is a powerful,
brisant explosive. It’s vaporizable nature makes it a explosive
that would
have to be used immediately after manufacture. However, this explosive is
compatible with metals and will not cause their corrosion and the
subsequent dangers involved.
It is also compatible with picric acid,
R.D.X., T.N.T., P.E.T.N., Tetryl, potassium chlorate
and antimony sulfide.
It is highly friction sensitive and extreme care should be taken
to
avoid this. Acetone peroxide is one of the most sensitive explosive known
to man.
Great care would be needed to handle this explosive carefully. It
is a powerful primary base
charge in the cap. Also mixtures of R.D.X. and
Picric acid with acetone peroxide are reported
to be used between primary
explosive and the base charge.
CAUTION: Acetone
peroxide one of the most sensitive explosive known to man.
this composition is dangerous and
would need to be handled by someone with
a lot of common sense. Mixtures such as picric
acid/acetone peroxide (40/60)
or similar mixtures with R.D.X. and P.E.T.N. will give
explosives greatly
increased resistance to impact without losing much initiation
performance.
Great care would be needed to ensure the safety of the manufacturer
due to the high sensitivity of the acetone peroxide. These dried crystals
would be ready to
load into detonators for immediate use as the storage
stability is not very good.
MANUFACTURE:
Acetone peroxide is formed when hydrogen peroxide 30% acts on
acetone. The introduction of dilute sulfuric acid causes the reaction to go
into completion.
Procedure is as follows. 50 ml acetone is placed in a one
pint jar or 500 ml beaker. To this
is added 30 ml hydrogen peroxide (30%).
This liquid is placed in an ice water bath and cooled
to 5 degrees
centigrade. To this cooled mixture is added 3 ml of sulfuric acid (20%).
This addition is done at 5 degrees centigrade and done in a dropwise
fashion. When the
temperature begins to rise (10 degrees C.), slow the
addition until the temperature falls
again. With the completion of the
addition stir the mixture. A flocculent precipitate will
form. This is
filtered out after the mixture stands for one hour. Wash the white product
three times with water (distilled preferably). Let the material filtered
out of the reaction
liquids and washed and dry this solid. By spreading out
the acetone peroxide this drying
process can be speeded up. These dry
crystals are now ready for loading into the caps as a
primary explosives.
Double Salts
————
DETONATION
VELOCITY-3600 M/sec. @ 3.96 G/cc
FRICTION SENSITIVITY - This primary explosive is on
the same order of
sensitivity as is lead azide.
BEHAVIOR TO FLAME - Burns
violently and sometimes detonates even in small
quantities.
These double salts
are a basic acetylide group primary explosive.
This explosive has good sensitivity, powder and
performance. It is readily
made from silver (coin), nitric acid and calcium carbide/ water
or
acetylene. This is an easy compound to make. What I found interesting is
the fact
that this primary is not photo active. Most silver salts are light
sensitive. This would be a
good choice due to the wide availability to the
main ingredients. DDNP, HMTD and mercury
fulminate, are better primary
explosives but this one has many possibilities. With this
primary explosive
suitable caps could be made and would be very usable and storage stable
as
some others in this publication could not.
MANUFACTURE
Dilute
10.1 ml of nitric acid (red fuming) with 6.75 ml of water.
If reagent or technical grade acid
is available (70% strength) this will
not need any water mixed with it to reduce the strength.
Simply use 17.5 ml
of this 70% nitric acid. Place a silver dime or equivalent amount of
silver
metal in the acid. It will dissolve leaving a green solution.
CAUTION:
Avoid the brown gas (nitrogen dioxide) produced when dissolving
the silver metal in the acid.
This gas is a deadly poison and the immediate
exposure to the gas and it s subsequent damage
will not show up for hours
or even days! This should be done with good ventilation!
completely dissolve.
Pour this green solution into a tall slender glass jar
such as an olive jar. Place this jar
with the green solution in it in a hot
water bath and heat. Crystals will form. The heating is
continued until
these crystals dissolve again. In another flask or even a "Coke"
bottle,
place ten teaspoons of calcium carbide into this flask with a cork with a
hose
passing through a hole in the cork. Place the other end of the hose in
the tall jar with the
solution in it. Remove the stopper from the flask or
bottle and add one teaspoon of water.
CAUTION: Acetylene gas is highly flammable and an explosion hazard. Keep
away from
heat and flame as much as possible.
The gas should begin generating. Add one more
teaspoon and place
the stopper back into the container. The acetylene gas generated by the
through the
solution in the tall glass. Bubble this gas through the
solution for 5-8 minutes. Brown vapor
will be given off by the liquid as is
absorbs acetylene and white flakes will begin to be
formed in the silver
solution. Remove the solution from the heat source and allow it to
cool.
Filter the liquid through a filter paper (paper towel, coffee filter) into
a glass
container. Green crystals will be caught on the filter paper. These
green crystals would then
be washed with 45 ml alcohol. The crystals will
change from green to white in color and the
methanol wash will turn green.
Place these white crystals on a paper towel and allow to air
dry.
CAUTION: Handle this dry explosive with great care. Do not scrape or handle
roughly. Keep away from flame or spark source or heat and store in a cool
dry place.
is good, which is very
important. A good choice of primary explosives.
Lead Picrate
————
DETONATION VELOCITY - 4400 M/sec.
SENSITIVITY - This primary is very sensitive
to shock friction and heat or
flame. This sensitivity is high and care should be used in
handling.
BEHAVIOR TO FLAME - Burns violently and sometimes detonates even in small
This is a good choice. The precursors to lead picrate and picric
acid, lead monoxide and methanol. PA can be used as the base charge in the
caps therefore
reducing problems and simplification of production. It is
not nearly as good a primary
explosive as H.M.T.D. or D.D.N.P. but will
work and is simple to make. Litharge, picric acid
and methanol is all that
is needed to make this one. This is a very dense heavy primary due to
the
lead in it’s makeup. So from a cap volume use it is in the same class as
all the
other primaries in this publication.
MANUFACTURE
In a shallow glass dish,
dissolve two grams of picric acid (see PA
section) in ten ml of methanol. All stirring should
be done with a teflon
or wooden stirrer. Slowly while stirring add two grams of litharge
(lead
monoxide, white lead litharge-plumbing supply stores) to the methanol/PA
solution.
CAUTION: At this point this is a primary explosive. Keep away from flame.
happens the
mixture will suddenly thicken. Stir the mixture occasionally to
stop any lumps from
forming.
CAUTION: Beware of drying material forming on the inside of the container.
Spread this lead picrate
in a flat shallow pan to dry. If possible dry the
mixture on a hot water bath for two hours.
This will ultimately give a
better product with more stability.
Nitrogen
Sulfide
—————-
FRICTION SENSITIVITY - Very sensitive to friction great
care would be
needed to produce this compound.
BEHAVIOR TO FLAME - Small
quantities (less than one gram) deflagrate with a
puff and larger sizes will detonate.
CHARGE WEIGHT - 2.0 Grams in 3/8 copper tubing only.
Nitrogen sulfide is a
dangerous compound to make. It is sensitive
to friction and heat. Mercury fulminate is much
safer to use from the
friction aspect. This compound is more powerful than mercury fulminate
but
with slightly less brisance. Storage stability is good for "straight"
nitrogen sulfide. In the proper mixture with potassium chlorate the primary
explosive is not
stable @50 degrees C. for long periods of time. Heat can
and will cause detonations. It is
however despite these problems, easily
prepared from common ingredients. This preparation is a
simple one, with a
variety of raw materials. As good a primary explosive as lead picrate.
The
recommended filler with this primary explosive is nitrogen sulfide 80% and
completely dry potassium chlorate 20%. This is mixed and 2 grams are loaded
over the charge
and pressed on top the base charge. Better primary
explosives can be had but this one is easy
and expedient.
MANUFACTURE
Place 100 grams of finely powdered sulfur
(brimstone: garden supply
store, pharmacy, industrial chemical supply) is placed in a tall
narrow
flask or narrow necked bottle equipped with a two hole stopper and placed
in a
frying pan filled with oil and heated until the sulfur melts (215
degrees C., 420 degrees F.).
In this place a hose from the chlorine gas
generator. This generator is a gallon jar with
either liquid laundry bleach
(5.25% Sodium hypochlorite aqueous solution) or 31% hydrochloric
(Muriatic
acid, swimming pool supply). to the bleach (total 1.2 gallons) is added in
small portions sodium bisulfite ("Saniflush": bathroom cleaners, sodium
acid
sulfite, swimming pool additive). This generation with the bleach/
bisulfite generator should
have the bleach split into three equal amounts
and reacted with the bisulfite one at a time.
The second and third. 4
gallon refill should be done only after the green gas is no longer
of the
gallonjug. The second or third fill are poured into the jug the
process repeated until all
three 2/5 gallon bleach solutions are reacted
and the chlorine bubbled through the molten
sulfur. To 255 grams
hydrochloric acid is added 53 grams manganese dioxide (black manganese
portions. This is
done in small additions until all the manganese dioxide
is dissolved and the chlorine has
stopped it’s bubbling.
CAUTION: Chlorine gas is toxic avoid contact and used with very
good
ventilation. Used as a war gas in WWI.
Immediately after the addition and
beginning chlorine generation
place a one hole stopper to which some stainless steel or
plastic (heat
resistant) tubing has been inserted in the hole. The other end of this hose
bottom of the now
molten sulfur. The other hole of the two hole stopper has
a hose inserted just through the
stopper. The end of this hose is placed
into a flask or narrow necked bottle cooled by a
salted ice bath. This
sulfur will begin to absorb the chlorine generated. This reaction
forming
sulfur dichloride. A total of 42 grams of chlorine need to be absorbed by
the
sulfur. As this chlorine is dissolved sulfur dichloride will begin to
form. Sulfur is very
soluble in sulfur chlorides and will begin to be
dissolved in the chloride already formed.
This sulfur chloride will
vaporize and collect in the bottle chilled by the salted ice bath.
This is
done until the temperature drops and begins to boil. Continue to pass the
chlorine gas through the liquid. After all the chlorine has gone through
the sulfur heat until
the sulfur liquid no longer boils. Heat for another
ten minutes and allow to cool. The last
flask should have caught most of
the sulfur dichloride liquid. Take the mixture off the heat
and allow to
cool. Dissolve 212 gram of this liquid in 1700 grams benzene (common
industrial solvent).
CAUTION: Sulfur dichloride (Sulfur chloride) is a pungent oily
liquid. All
contact should be avoided! All steps of this process should be carried out
with good ventilation. Benzene is a very dangerous liquid. Contact with the
skin, breathing of
the vapors are dangerous and should be avoided. Great
care should be used when handling this
known carcinogen. It is also highly
flammable.
Filter this solution through a
paper coffee filter. This filtering
should remove nearly all the sulfur. The remaining liquid
should have no
solids in it. Then ammonia gas generator is set up and ammonia gas is
bubbled through the solution. The ammonia generator (ammonium nitrate/lye)
is described in
TACC section of the primary explosive section of this book.
A dark brown powdery powder will
collect in the bottom as the ammonia
bubbles through the liquid. Keep bubbling the ammonia gas
through the
solution. Until this brown powder dissolves in the solution and a orange-
yellow color is observed. Flocculent ammonia chloride crystals are seen in
the liquid. Warm
the benzene until it boils. Filter immediately through a
filter with 200 grams fresh benzene.
Add this benzene wash to the
liquid just filtered (filtrate). Let this liquid evaprate until
a mushy
crystalline mass remains and filter. Let these crystals dry. These golden
yellow
to orange-red are nitrogen sulfide.
CAUTION: This explosive is friction, flame and
shock sensitive. Handle with
the greatest care.
This powder must be pressed into
the cap using the apparatus shown
in the cap manufacture section for proper performance and
moisture should
be avoided. Contamination with sulfur in mixtures with potassium chlorate
Silver Fulminate
—————-
FRICTION SENSITIVITY - Extremely friction sensitive! Should not be used if
other
primary explosives can be made.
BEHAVIOR TO FLAME - Single crystals explode violently.
Larger amounts than
given in the process below should not be made.
CHARGE WEIGHT
- 1.0 G. compound cap
Silver fulminate (SF) is an extremely dangerous compound.
Friction
flame and sometimes contact with the dried product will cause it’s
detonation.
It’s performance is fair and the acquisition of the raw
ingredients is simple. Never used due
to the extremely unstable nature of
SF. If other primary explosive options existed they would
be better choice
than this one. To use this primary explosive it must be mixed with tapioca
obtained due to
the abundance of silver (coins, powder, ingots). Small
batches of SF should be made with
protective barricades between the
operator and the reaction vessel. Again this explosive is
dangerous and
should be avoided if at all possible.
MANUFACTURE
Place 6 ml nitric acid (1.42 G/cc common technical grade acid or
"watered" down
stronger acid) in a 100 ml pyrex beaker containing 1.2 ml
water and heated to 95-100 degrees
F.. Place one gram of silver, (coins,
bars, powder) in this acid solution.
CAUTION: This addition should be done with excellent ventilation as the
nitrogen dioxide fumes
generated are very toxic even in small
quantities!
This will begin to bubble as
the silver is dissolved. This will form silver
nitrate in a very acid solution. When the
silver dissolves (gentle heating
may be necessary to get all the mercury to dissolve). In a
500 ml beaker
surrounded by an ice bath place 15 ml 95% + ethyl alcohol ("Everclear"
or
redistilled concentrate whiskey etc.) and add the silver/acid solution to
the liquid
not allowing the temperature to rise above 65 degrees C.
CAUTION: This addition will
cause the generation of poison gases and should
be done with good ventilation.
A
vigorous reaction will take place with this addition. Dense white
poisonous fumes are given
off. As time lapses, the density of these fumes
will diminish. The reaction will subside in
20-25 minutes. When the foaming
reaction ceases, pour this solution into 200 ml water. The
white crystals
are then allowed to settle and the clear liquid on top poured off. Add 0.25
crystals filtered
out through a paper towel or drip coffee filter. They are
then washed with 30 cc ethanol.
These crystals are then used in an area
away from sunlight.
CAUTION: This white
powder is extremely flame, friction and light
sensitive. Friction and impacts should be
avoided and the material should
be expected to explode at any time. Again this explosive is
dangerous even
for someone with much laboratory experience. This composition should be
avoided and it’s manufacture undertaken only as a last resort.
Nitroguanidine
————–
DETONATION VELOCITY - 5630 M/sec. @ 1.0 G/cc.
7650 M/sec. @ 1.5
G/cc.
FRICTION SENSITIVITY - Very insensitive
BEHAVIOR TO FLAME - Melts
with sublimation and decomposition.
Nitroguanidine is a powerful explosive. First made
from bat guano,
by extraction and formation of guanidine nitrate and subsequent treatment
This explosive is
similar in performance to picric acid and T.N.T.. While
not being quite as brisant as these
two explosives the ease of manufacture
and lack of friction sensitivity make nitroguanidine an
attractive choice
for a blasting cap base charge explosive. It is a cool explosive and does
gases upon
detonation. This base charge explosive, should be loaded in the
caps with the density not
exceeding 1.35 G./cc. Excess loading densities
will render the base charge undetonatable with
1.5 G. charges of H.M.T.D..
This explosive will work and work well and is very storage stable.
Larger
diameter cap containers (3/8" +) should be used to ensure propagation of
the
detonation through the entire cap. Given below is the manufacture
techniques for production of
nitroguanidine. This procedure will work well
but is rather lengthy and labor intensive.
MANUFACTURE
Obtain two clay flower pots with a small hole in their bottoms.
Fitted to one of these is
stainless steel tubing. A refractory made from "firebrick"
and fired by charcoal should
be built. The flower pots will need to fit into this refractory
and have ample room
around them to pack the charcoal. An air blower (e.g. hairdryer, vacuum
cleaner is
hooked up to blow air through the coal to generate the heat needed. In the
bottom
flower-pot, a stainless steel screen will be needed to keep from clogging the
stainless
steel tubing from the ammonia inlet tube. Place 200 grams of calcium carbonate
(Limestone, chalk) in the bottom flower pot, with the stainless tubing attached. Place
the
other flowerpot upside down directly on top of the bottom pot. Place this in the
refractory
furnace and place a pyrometer or high temperature thermometer into the
hole in the top clay
flower pot. Start the furnace and blow air through the burning
charcoal until the temperature
inside the pots reaches 700 degrees C.. At this time
begin to pass ammonia gas through the
stainless tubing into the lime inside. The
temperature should never go over 820 degrees C. as
the lime will decompose. The
ammonia generator the gas generator in the TACC section. The
amounts needed in the
generator are 170 G. ammonium nitrate fertilizer, 100 G. sodium
hydroxide and
adding 100 ml water to the mixture. This water addition would be done in
small
portions to ensure the absorption of the gas by the calcium carbonate. This gas needs
ceases to
generate from the generator deprive the charcoal of oxygen to extinguish the
flame. Let the
refractory furnace cool and remove the flowerpots from it. The black
material in the bottom is
calcium cyanamide.
Place 216 grams of urea in a stainless steel pan. Heat until it
CAUTION: This is
dangerous and extreme care should be used in this step.
This mixture could explode if allowed
to burn. Water should be
used if a fire does break out by immediate dilution and quenching
Keep the temperature of the melt at 120 degrees
centigrade. When
the addition of the ammonium nitrate is complete and the mixture is liquid
over a twenty
minute period. This mixtures temperature is held at 120
degrees C. for two hours and then
diluted with 720 ml water. This liquid is
heated to 95 degrees C. and then filtered through
several coffee filters or
a "fast" filter paper. The liquid thus obtained is allowed
to cool to 25
degrees C. and then the crystals formed are filtered out. The liquid is
reduced to 1/2 its volume by boiling. It is cooled and filtered and the
crystals obtained are
added to those from the first filtration. These
crystals are washed with 40 ml cold water.
They are then dried in a shallow
pyrex dish while heated in a hot oil bath at 110 degrees C.
for two hours.
These crystals are guanidine nitrate (90% purity).
Immerse a one
liter flask, containing 500 ml. concentrated sulfuric
acid, in cracked ice. This acid is
stirred until the temperature drops to
10 degrees C. or less. In small portions, add 400 grams
of dry guanidine
nitrate to the acid with stirring to keep the temperature below 11 degrees
into three
liters of cracked ice and water. Let this stand until the
nitroguanidine is completely
crystallized out of the liquid. Filter these
crystals out and dissolve in four liters of
boiling water (distilled if
possible). Allow to cool by standing overnight and filter the
crystals out.
Dry these crystals by heating gently in a container placed in a pan of
boiling water. This dried material is then ready to store in a plastic
container or to load
into finished caps.
M.M.A.N.(Monomethylamine nitrate)
——————————–
DETONATION VELOCITY - 6100 M/sec. @ 1.2 G/cc
6600 M/sec. @ 1.4 G / cc
FRICTION SENSITIVITY - Very insensitive. Similar to T.N.T..
BEHAVIOR TO FLAME - Burns if heated to 370-390 degrees C. and will burn
completely in 6-8 seconds.
M.M.A.N. is a powerful explosive with 112-120% the
power of T.N.T.
with a greater detonation rate. This explosive is not as sensitive as
others in this publication to primary explosive requiring 2 G. mercury
fulminate or 1.25 grams
of H.M.T.D. Methylamine is a basic building block
of modern chemistry. It is an intermediary
for hundreds of more common
chemicals. It is easily obtained or purchased cheaply. Nitric acid
does not
require highly concentrations with as low as 20% acid strength working
perfectly. This is a good feature as requirements for explosives made with
concentrated acids
take time to produce and cannot be produced as fast or
cheaply. This explosive is simple
enough that it would require little
experience and few setups in a lab. This explosive is very
hygroscopic. It
will absorb its weight in water at a relative humidity of 50% in 21 days.
quantities of
primary explosive as other base explosives. Both are
acceptable and the hygroscopic nature of
the salt can be controlled by
loading caps on "dry days" of low humidity. These caps
should also be
dipped into molten wax to ensure their "waterproofness". This
explosive is
best used in a cap made with 3/8" tubing because 5 grams of this
explosive
are required. This will give a detonator 3/8" x 2-3/4". This cap should
density that the
primary needs for maximum performance. Load this base
charge explosive to a density of 1.2
G/cc. Higher densities will cause the
explosive to become insensitive to the primary
explosive. This cap should
detonate most explosives and will be a great deal more powerful
than a #10
blasting cap.
MANUFACTURE - Place 250 ml of 33% methylamine aqueous
solution in a
stainless bowl or beaker. Add in four portions either 832 G. 70% nitric
acid, 971 G. 60% nitric acid or 583 G.100% nitric acid + 250 ml water. A
good deal of heat
will be generated by this neutralization. The solution
will boil due to the heat. Allow the
heat from the previous additions to
subside before the next addition is made. After the
additions have been
made check the solution with PH paper (e. mark brand) from your lab
supply
store. If the PH is above 7 add acid 1/4 teaspoon at a time until the PH
is
between 6 and 7. If when checked the PH is 6 or below then add
methylamine solution until the
PH rises to between 6 and 7. This liquid is
then put in a vacuum flask with a stopper. This
will be placed in a hot oil
bath (frying pan filled with good cooking oil). The oil bath
should be 75
degrees C. (167 degrees F.). The flask is hooked up to a vacuum source and
the vacuum applied. The vacuum will allow the waters removal in a much
quicker amount of time.
The vacuum source can be an aspirator type (cost
around $5.00). This is the ideal source of
vacuum. A gauge is placed in the
line and the vacuum drawn at first recorded. This vacuum will
remain the
same until the water is all evaporated. At this point the vacuum suddenly
will increase greatly. This signifies the end point. The crystals in the
flask are scraped out
in a dry (atmospheric humidity) room. This is placed
in a sealed container to keep moisture
our of the solutions. This is the
explosive. It could be toxic if eaten in large quantities
but at worst,
prolonged handling of this explosive will give only a rash. The only thing
to remember is to keep away from moisture and keep in a sealed container.
Load large 3/8"
diameter caps with 4-6 grams of MMAN as a base charge with
large charges of primary
explosives. Seal the caps immediately by dipping
in hot molten wax. These caps are powerful
and will take most of a forearm
off a foolish person.
PETN (Pentaerythrite
Tetranitrate)
———————————
DETONATION VELOCITY - 5830 M/sec.
@ 1.09 G/cc.
7490 M/sec. @ 1.51 G/cc.
8300 M/sec. @ 1.77 G/cc.
FRICTION
SENSITIVITY - Sensitive to friction between two hard surfaces
BEHAVIOR TO FLAME - Burns
quietly after melting with a slightly luminous
flame.
PETN is a powerful
explosive. It’s power is slightly greater than
R.D.X. and it is slightly more sensitive to
initiation. It is powerful,
stable, safe and efficient for the manufacture of improvised
blasting caps.
PETN is found, in it’s common form, as the filler in detonating cord
(E-cord etc.). If a person had access to this detonating cord he could
salvage the PETN out of
the cord by splitting it and simply scraping out
the filler with a pocket knife or similar
tool. The larger primer cord
could yield as much as 1.7 lb. (771 grams) of the powder per
hundred feet
of cord. If access was available this method would be much better and
easier than actual manufacture. This manufacture requires the acquisition
of fuming nitric
acid. This can be bought or made. For manufacture see
chapter 2 of "Kitchen Improvised
Plastic Explosives" Then the
pentaerythrite must be obtained. It is available and is used
in the paint
and varnish industries as well as in the manufacture of synthetic resins.
It is cheap, but could raise a few questions in it’s acquisition. Sulfuric
acid is available
from cleaning supply houses and as some generic drain
openers. This is one of the best choices
for cap base charge explosives. It
has great power and will, in a properly constructed cap,