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³ TREE PINNING: THE ART OF SILENT TREE SPIKING ³
³From: ECODEFENSE: a Field Guide to
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Monkeywrenching³
„ÄÄ´
³Expanded upon and written by: Excessive Mayhem³
„ÄÄÙ
NOTE: This methods described in this file have not been tested by ME.
It
has been taken from an EARTH FIRST! guide. It is not a
word for word copy of what’s in the
book, but I have added very
little of my own principals. Although _I_ have not tested this,
you can be sure that the author of the original article has, and
that it works. -EM
Okay. This file is intended for all those who have read and practised my
SPIKE.TXT.
If you have not read that file, you can pick it up from any ANON
distribution site. I
reccommend that you read it before attempting anything
discussed in this file. Plus, if I must
say so myself, it’s damn good, and
a refreshing change from HOW TO KILL A CAR, VOLUME 20002.
(Not that I like
cars mind you… But more on that in later files 
Assuming you
have read and tried the methods described in the first file,
you are probably wondering about
noise. True enough, if tree-spiking becomes
popular in an area, security measures will be
employed to see that it stops.
Even the DUMBEST cop will be able to recognize the CLANK CLANK
CLANK of your
hammer as being a bad thing. (Whether or not he can bring himself to put down
This file discusses methods of
getting the spikes into the trees without
making any noise. These methods require that you be
somewhat more covert
about your actions, and are careful not to get caught. Some yahoo is
gonna
read this file and ignore this key statement. He’ll end up getting busted
and
point his finger at me. Sooooo:
"The author does not condone or reccomend the use
of any of the
techniques outlined in this file."
There it is, your typical
disclaimer… Heh.
Anyways, on with the file.
—————————————————————————–
If you’ve been
stopping the freddies with your tree spiking for long enough,
they’re gonna be getting pissed
of. They’re slow learners, but when they
start to loose money, they’ll be more careful. You
can be sure that after
about a week of spiking, they’ll be looking for us eco-freaks. But we
can’t
give them a rest, ’cause as soon as we stop spiking, they start milling.
Here’s
one way to get around this problem.
Equipment:
———-
Drill
VERY long extension
cord, or a cordless drill. The old pro’s at
Earth First! reccommend the Black & Decker
model 9020 or 1940. The
9020 will only drill about 15 - 25 holes, while the 1940 drills
twice
that many holes and has a removable battery pack. Still, you can buy
several
9020’s for the price of one 1940. Other drills of course will
work, but test them for torque
and longevity before you hit the field.
Drill Bits
- Use only "Twist"
bits. The type used for drilling through metal. The
fissures and pits on these bits pull
saw-dust back up out of the hole,
reducing the possibility of a jam or break. The bit should
be about
4« inches to 6 inches long.
Apron
- A simple cloth apron makes a
good holder for pins, and will allow you
to wipe your hands clean.
Pins
-
At a welding supply store, buy ¬ inch steel welding rod. It comes in
36 inch lengths, two
rods per pound. Cost’s about $1.50 to $2.50 per
pound. Use a hack saw to cut the rods into 3
and 4 inch lengths. Make
a few of about 2 inches. The quantity depends on the number of
trees
you wish to pin. Keep in mind that extra’s lying about are as good as
finger-prints in an investigation.
Saftey Goggles
- Wear ‘em! You’re eyes are
important when you’re running from the cops.
Use the type that doesn’t restrict
side-vision.
Clean Rags
- Used to make sure equipment is finger-print free.
Silicon Caulk and Gun
- You know, that clear stuff for sealing around windows. (Good
for
jamming locks too.. But more on that later)
Smaller "ram rod"
long.
Method:
——-
As with spiking, this is easiest to do during the day,
but the fact that
you have to use this method at all indicates that a night visit may be
in
order. (Heh) Pick your clothing wisely. Nothing flashy, but nothing too
conspicuous.
If you’re working during the day, then wear "earthy" tones,
at night, try to avoid
jet black. Stick with the dark colours, but avoid all
black. (The temptation will be there to
dress up like a ninja. While this
provides camoflouge at night, it is very conspicuous)
Someone who sees a
person wearing all black and a ski mask sneaking into the forest is gonna
remember it. If someone, however, sees a nice looking young man/woman
going into the
woods for an evening stroll, it’ll be out of their minds before
they reach their front porch.
They might not even remember if questioned
about it in a day or two.
Oh yeah, back to
the method.
1) Drill a hole in the tree on a slightly downward angle at about eye
level.
(As with spiking, the higher up the tree, the better) Make the hole about
4
inches in diameter. If there is a knot in the way, don’t force it, just
use a smaller pin.
(That’s why you have the 2 inch pins) Your drill bit
should be slightly bigger around than
your pins.
2) Fill the bottom part of the hole with caulk. This will hold the pins in
place and prevent them from being pulled out by a magnet or other means.
3) Put
a pin into the hole. Tap it down with the ram rod. Make sure it is
at the bottom. If the hole
is over 4 inches in length, use a 4 inch pin.
As a general rule, adjust the size of the pin
for the depth of the hole.
4) Put a dab of caulk on the end of the hole. Enough to
cover it up. This
will seal the hole from insects or infection. Place a chip of bark in the
hole to cover it up. It has been suggested that you should break off part
of a branch
inside the hole, that way, when the tree is de-barked, it will
appear as a knot, as opposed
to a plastic-filled hole.
Field Notes:
————
That’s
it! SOOO much simpler than spiking, and a lot quieter. Here a few
suggestions and hints.
- Make sure that every piece of equipment is free of finger-
prints, not just the pins.
If you are forced to abandon
something, you don’t want your prints on it.
- This
method is useful after the trees have been scanned
for metal. Sneak in at night, after the
metal scanning
process and pin a few trees.
- To be even quieter, use a brace
and bit type drill. This
requires more manual labour (obviously), but provided it
is
well oiled, it is next to silent.
- Make sure you leave no evidence. This should be
done in
team of 2 or three, with one look out while one pins.
Once again, the pick-up
drop off method is the best form
of transportation. A towel can be placed on the ground
around the base of the tree to catch saw-dust.
- Make sure you either use or get rid
of all the pins at
once. Extra pins laying around your house can get you in
serious
trouble should you be investigated. For added
security, alternate between welder’s supply rods
and the
threaded, zinc-coated rods found in most lumber yards.
You want each attack to
look like it was done by a separate
team.
- With this method, you can use
non-metallic pins. The
ultimate way to baffle the metal detectors. To make ceramic
pins, use stoneware clay. Make sure that you don’t leave
a trail of names and adresses when
buying it. Also make sure
that it is completely free of iron oxide, as it might trip
the
detectors. When moulding the clay into pins, wear gloves.
The pins must be fired to "cone
10". This requires a kiln
temperature of about 2400 degrees Fahrenheit. Finding a kiln
- Be careful. And if
you get caught, you didn’t hear it from me.
I would appreciate any comments or triumphs
involving this method. I am
especially interested in hearing from an Earth Firsters! out
there. That’s
the end of it.. I hope to continue releasing files. I have many idea’s
beyond the eco-freak (or eco-phreak.. heh) files, so keep an eye open.
The contents of
this file were taken without consent from the Field Guide
to Monkeywrenching, second edition.
It was edited (the book, not the file)
by Dave Foreman and Bill Haywood. Incedently, the third
edition was released
last summer, and if you look hard enough in the southern states, you’ll
find
it. You might be able to order a copy. Published by Ned Ludd Books.
That’s
all folks.
Working together for a blue sky…
<end file>
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