How to make Crank/Meth Aka shake n bake

[spiked_converse]

WHAT LETHAL TOXINS R U USING? (INGREDIENTS FOR METH AKA CRANK, FARMERS / COUNTRY / NAZI DOPE)


**** I DO NOT CONDONE TO ANY OF THE BELOW AND IS FOR EDUCATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY. IF YA WANNA GO FOR IT I CAN'T STOP YOU AND IT'S YOUR LIFE AND
**** OTHERS YOU MIGHT BE THROWING AWAY....KNOWING THAT PPL AREN'T GOING TO LISTEN TO ME JUST
DDDDOOOO NNNOOOTTT GUESSSSS AT MIXING OR SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH WILL OCCUR!!!!



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PART 1 (INGREDIENTS - CAN ALL BE FOUND AT HARDWARE / ANIMAL FEED - OUTDOOR/ CONVENIENT STORES ;-)


-- 1 liter plastic bottle (to mix ingrediants in steps 1 - 5) PREFERABLY BIG OPENING TOP like most pepsi prod. aka sunkist

# 1 - 3300 fertilizer (white rocks) 1/2

# 2 - 12 hrs sudafed 100% pseudoephedrine (3-6 boxes depending on how much;Try NOT to get flavored pills bc it leaves alot of trash)

# 3 - coleman fuel red can (liquid extra filtered)

# 4 - lithium batt. (lithium energizer AAs - when taking strips out make sure not to grab "blow up strip" aka the black strip with thin piece of foil in it) ANY METAL GETS INSIDE.....BOOOM!!! GAME OVER

# 5 - 100% household lye (helps reduce acid and stabilizes the mix)

# 6 - 1 cap full of water (Apox. 20 oz - 1 liter cap, no more!) Don't wanna blow up eh?

** IF YOU KNOW WHAT YOUR DOING THE MAGIC WILL START HAPPENING WITHIN 10-30sec.
YOU'LL SEE THE BUBBLES OF JOY ** (TWIST CAP JUST A BIT EVERY FEW MIN. TO RELEASE THE AMONIA GAS N PREVENT EXPLOTION)
GAS WILL CAUSE CHEMICAL BURN

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PART 2 AKA GAS OFF = (INGREDIENTS)

** I DO NOT CONDONE NOR PARTAKE IN THIS, BUT IF YA KNOW WHAT YA DOING YA ALMOST THERE!!
(EDUCATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY IF YOU DON'T KNOW WHATS GOING ON DO NOT TRY!!!!)

1-2 ft tube...fish tank tubing will do (cut hole in cap and run tube 1/2 down in 20 oz bottle n rest out for gas off)

20 oz bottle(for gas off...mix salt n draino) run tube out of-
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# 1 - non iodized salt (mix with drain for gas off)

# 2 - liquid fire aka lightning draino (mix with salt when gas off) gas WILL BURN your HAND !!

# 3 - after ya gas off all prod. fall to bottom of the bottle or what ur using pour through 2-3 combined filters n dry

** EVERYTHING IN THIS SYNTHESIS IS ONLY FOR EDUCATIONAL PURPOSES AND NOT INTENDED
FOR THE USE OF ANY PERSON AND BREAKING YOUR COUNTRY'S LAWS !!! I WILL NOT BE HELP RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR RETARTEDNESS.
PEACE.... -THE NIGHTCRAWLER

[death-of-light]

not bad work on the spelling a bit and you should fit in.
headcase, since mac left the forms how about a fact check?

[spunand burnt]

how to make ice with brake fluid chlorine tablets muratic acid aluminum napftha and methyl alcohol

[Macaveli]

Dont anyone listen to this shit.

Especially the fucking idiot above me that said you can make ice outta brake fluid.

Dumbass moron, Ice is fucking pure meth jackass. CHLORINE TABLETS. STFU!

[purewhitepanda]

“Nazi Methamphetamine” Tabletop Recipe:
Standard Equipment Needed (5 Grams):
7.5 Grams Iodine Prill or Iodine Crystals Ephedrine or Pseudoephedrine….1665 Pills produces 5 Pure Grams Sodium Hydroxide…………………1 Pint Red Devil Lye 3.5 Grams Red-Phosphorus…...5000 Matchbook’s 250ml Glass Flask…………………2 20oz Plastic Jug’s…………………2 Coffee Filters……………………….6 Electric Coffee Cup Warmer….1 6’’ or longer Rubber Hoses…...3 Plastic Gallon Jug’s…...1 The push/pull does not take a lot of skill but does take a bit of understanding of what one is dealing with. First of all this method does require some very watched items. Red phosphorous and iodine crystals can bring unwanted attention if ordered from different supply companies. If by chance one cannot seem to obtain these items anywhere, there is still hope. It is possible to obtain these items OTC (over the counter) at your nearest supermarket. If one can get one's hands on lab grade without getting a one-way ticket to the slammer, it is well worth it. The striking pads of matchbooks contain a small amount of red phosphorous. It is not pure, so consider cleaning it up a bit before use. It is possible to convert iodine tinctures to iodine crystals. Tinctures can be found on the shelves of many different supermarkets, and come in 30 ml bottles of 2% iodine in solution. Tinctures are also available at cattle supply houses, in pint and gallon sizes, which contain 7% iodine in solution. Iodine prill, a common name for iodine powder or pellets often available in cattle supply stores as well, works great just the way it is. There are many different ways to collect red phosphorous from the striking pads of matchbooks. Scraping it off with a razor blade is a simple collection process. A better way is to cut the strikers off and soak them in acetone until the red phosphorous falls off. It takes a very large number of strikers to obtain a large enough pile to do anything with, but it is a proven method in use by many people. When all of the phosphorous falls off the paper, remove the paper, filter the acetone/red phosphorous through two coffee filters, rinse with distilled water, and let dry. Now mix up a solution of 20% sodium hydroxide. That is 20% grams of sodium hydroxide in 100 ml of distilled water. Place the dry red phosphorous in a beaker or flask of choice and add the hydroxide solution to it. Heat this mixture on low heat for a few hours, and then filter through two coffee filters again. When dry, rinse with hot distilled water a few times and let dry. This will produce a more pure powder that will fire off a push/pull reaction.

To convert 2% iodine tinctures, the following are used: 500 ml 2% iodine tincture 125 ml muramic acid (hardware store strength) 235 ml hydrogen peroxide (3% topical solution) 862 ml distilled water To convert 7% iodine tinctures, the following are used: 1 pint of 7% tincture 3 pints of 3% peroxide 2 oz. of muriatic acid '/a cup of distilled water Pour the tincture in a one-gallon milk jug, add the muriatic acid, and mix it all together well. Let this mixture sit for half an hour. Now add the 3% hydrogen peroxide, with thorough mixing, and let it sit for another half an hour. Next, add the distilled water and shake vigorously until your arms tire, then let it sit for another half an hour. There should be an orange layer on top of a dark grey layer. The grey layer is what you want. The grey layer is iodine crystals that have crashed out of solution. Pour off the orange layer, add more fresh distilled water to them, and shake again. Let it sit for a few minutes, and then pour off the orange solution again. Repeat this process three times, and after the third time, pour the contents through two coffee filters. Now one must wring dry the crystals in the coffee filters. Wring dry, put them in another stack of coffee filters, and wring them out again. Keep doing this until one gets a nice solid dry ball of crystals. That is it. One should have nice iodine crystals that will work in the reaction. Store the crystals in a dark-colored jar or bottle. Warning: When making one's own crystals from tinctures, wear eye protection and chemical resistant gloves. Remember that iodine is poisonous, so be safe, and work outdoors.

Figure 40 the Push/Pull Set Up STOPPER’S, LIDS & HOSES SEALED TIGHT! As one can see from Figure 40, it is very easy to construct the apparatus for this reaction. A small clear beer bottle can replace the flask if one is not on hand. This setup easily scales larger or smaller for different size batches. If, for example, one wants to do a 20-gram batch, use a 500 ml flask or bottle and two 64-oz. plastic Gatorade jugs. Make sure all the hoses scale in place because one does not want any leaks. The reaction can be very quick, but other times it may not be. Keep a bucket of dirt or sand at hand to smother any possible phosphorous fire. A phosphorous fire is a possibility, so be on the safe side. With lab grade red phosphorous and iodine crystals, the ratios by weight are 1-gram pseudoephedrine/ephedrine HCl to 1 gram of iodine crystals to 0.5 gram of red phosphorous. With OTC chemicals, the ratios are 1-gram pseudoephedrine/ephedrine HCl to 1.5 grams of iodine crystals to 0.7 gram of red phosphorous. So now, let us get started with the reaction. First thing to do is set up the push/pull vessel. Fill the first water tank with distilled water % of the way full. The second one leave empty. One can either put the drain hose from the second tank down the drain past the u trap or in a bucket of cat litter. Weigh out the pseudoephedrine/ephedrine HCl and place inside the flask or bottle, no more than a 10-gram batch in a

250 ml size flask or bottle. Next weigh out the iodine crystals and put them inside with the pseudoephedrine/ephedrine HCl. Mix them together very well and stopper the flask or bottle and place it in the freezer for around 3-4 minutes. Weigh out the red phosphorous. Take the flask from the freezer, the reactants should be dark and may be a dark thick-looking mud. Place the red phosphorous in the flask, mix in good with a glass rod, and hook it up to the water tanks. If the drain hose is down the drain, it is time to turn on the water to keep the fumes down. If using lab grade chemicals, one may have to add a few drops of distilled water to get the reaction going. For OTC chemicals, one should need no water; just heat the reactants a little and it should be fine. Do not flood the reaction with water! Place the flask on a coffee cup warmer or in a hot water bath. When the reaction starts, take it off the heat. During the first phase of the reaction, the mixture turns to a thick liquid and starts bubbling. The small bubbles will be somewhat silvery looking. Some gas may now be pushing into the first water tank and water into the second. The contents inside the flask will raise some. A light yellow-colored mist and white fog inside the flask is normal. Continue to add, on and off, heat to maintain an easy bubbling reaction, at least around 15-20 minutes or until bubbling begins to slow. In the next phase, increase heat to the flask; slowly raise it up to between 160°-180° F. The reaction should begin to bubble very rapidly. The color of the reaction will change to a dark purple or reddish with a yellow tint. The small reaction bubbles will start turning into big bubbles that collapse into large holes. The reaction should be pushing gas into water tanks, but a lot harder this time. The contents will rise quickly, and may start to smoke. If so, remove from the heat and swirl the contents around in the flask to get the smoking to stop. Swirling will also keep the •reactants from rising too high. Let react until all ^seems to be dead inside the flask (no reaction) even with applied heat. A pull may be noted. If not, that is all right too. Sometimes there is no pull with small reactions. Tilt the flask. If reactants slowly flow off the bottom and sides and are not longer stuck, it should be finished. Let cool to room temperature, and then add 100 ml of distilled water. Next, in an open flask and on water bath, heat the mixture at 150° F for 30 minutes in order to free the contents. Filter all the red phosphorous out of the mix. A couple of coffee filters also works well for filtering the red phosphorous out, the color should be clear to pale yellow. If one gets a dark orange or red color that does not filter out, the reaction might not be complete or the adulterants in the pills may have messed it up. If this is the case, try putting the red phosphorous back into the water from which it was filtered. Heat it up to about 200° F for two hours to complete it. If this does not work, the crap in the pills may have messed the reaction up. Now it is time to base and extract the meth base with a non-polar solvent such as toluene. Wash the solvent/base layer with distilled water a few times, and dry with dehydrated Epsom salts. Gas the solvent/base layer to get crystals of methamphetamine.

[purewhitepanda]

pic figure 40 wouldnt work,will put one up later that does.

[purewhitepanda]

Ok, this is an amalgamation of many peoples methods!
I believe this to be the best, simplest, fastest, and cleanest method for producing meth-amphetamine,
in the highest yields possible for RP/I2/E reaction!
Remember, each and every step gives small losses, and this method has the least steps!
It is a culmination of efforts by, Worlock, CHEMMAN, and maybe a few tiny touches by me!
I re-iterate, I don't want any congratulations except for the write-up itself!
You will need these things, and no substitutions allowed!
If you can't get this shit, you ain’t ready to make the best Go-Go in town!
This is a refinement of all methods, and the next step up from Push Pull,
But nobody should be discouraged from attempting this, as you will probably find it easier!
PH paper, isn't even necessary!

This post is one method from Go to Whoah!
This post has to be followed from GO to Whoah!
Otherwise you can run into trouble, as povidone is not removed in this extraction!
It will be removed at the end! Each step was chosen to compliment the next!
Understand?
Read on Doggs.....

Index:
1: Equipment
2: Reagents
3: Extraction of pfed
4: Reaction
5: Steam distillation
6: Crystallization
Worlock's Steam Distillation page
Equipment:
Various jars
2L pyrex vessel
2L 2 neck round flat bottom flask
1 condenser, I recommend a coil condenser but a liebig will suffice!
1 sloping splash head or better still, a steam distillation sloping splash head!
A steam pressure cooker, that has relief valve at top
Hot plate, electric of course!
Filter paper, Blucher and vacuum would be nice too!
thermometer
1 glass stopper
lengths of clear pvc tubing
Pot with vegetable oil, that can fit your reaction vessel

Index
Reagents:
Iodine crystals
Red Phosphorous
Pseudo-ephedrine, or ephedrine
Methanol
Toluene
Acetone
NaOH
All must be clean and anhydrous!
Ice

Index

Extraction of pfed,
Ok, this method will deal with the HCl salt of pfed, and a streamlined version of "the cure"!
All pills are dumped into a large jar and double the volume of methanol poured on top!
This is stirred vigorously and let to settle, in the fridge seems to speed it up!
After top methanol layer has cleared it is carefully decanted off.
This procedure is repeated 3 times.
All methanol pulls are put together and reduced on a hot plate.
As methanol gets down to last little bit, it is taken off heat
Then a portion of acetone, twice your remaining liquid is dropped in.
This forces the pfed crystals to crash out.
Then remaining liquid is carefully eared off.
Now you have your crude/dirty pfed HCl.
Next we will be doing successive toluene washes
So put your pfed crystals in a pyrex (heat proof glass)
Now add toluene to a safe level that can be lightly boiled on hot plate
After about 5 mins boiling with stirring.
Take off heat and let settle a minute.
Now carefully pour off toluene into a filter to catch any remnants of pfed that may follow.
Now if you get the toluene that has our contaminants in it and add some water
You will see the crap crash from the toluene into the water
This is the crap that came thru with the methanol pull!
So as we continue to do multiple toluene washes,
We will continue to test the toluene after pouring it off,
To see how we are progressing with the cleanup!
When we have reached a point where no crap comes out of the toluene,
With the addition of water, then we are ready to try acetone!
Usually about 3 boils in toluene, but of course it depends how much your using!
So, as before we will add a portion of acetone and boil lightly!
Now when we pour off the acetone, we will add a tiny amount of water and some NaOH
This is our final test, when you do this and no crap falls out of acetone you are ready!
This will be the cleanest pfed you have ever seen, guaranteed!
AND, yields should be >90% if your careful! 95% is good

Index

Reaction,
Smallest reaction to be attempted, especially by new bees, is 1oz of pfed!
So that even taking into account sloppiness, lack of experience and losses along the way
You should get some product!
Ratios of reagents are,
3:3:1 or 1:1:1/3
ie.E:I:RP aka, equal amounts of Iodine and pfed, and a third as much RP! Comprenda! This is calculated on a weight basis, and can be scaled up or down as necessary, e.g.60gmE/60gmI2/20gmRP or 120gmE/120gmI2/40gmRP etc etc!
Ok first prepare yourself an ice bath! Yes ice cubes and water in a sink or bucket!
Now, many will say you should add this first or that first!
Well after much reading of different peoples methods, I say....
Chuck the whole shebang in together, while your flask is on ice,
Lift and swirl ingredients together, while maintaining on ice!
Put your condenser on top and start water running thru, from bottom to top!
Now, the idea is to get the reaction going in the most controlled way possible.
Now you want to let reagents react in the ice bath, if at all,
Then move vessel from ice bath to room temp,
If things look like they're going too fast, put back in ice bath,
You want to keep the reaction going but only at a nice slow, controlled pace!
This is also necessary to control vapor in the condenser!
Thick and or dis-colored smoke is bad! and plumes of smoke will escape from condenser
As things progress at a nice slow pace, as things slow too much you can start applying heat!
So prepare an oil bath and bring to about 50c, now if there is no more action in your vessel
You can move it to the oil bath, and same as before, when things slow down,
Adjust heat up, to say 100c then 150c for one hour, to make sure reaction has completed
The whole time you should be watching to keep a nice reflux going,
and not too much vapor is escaping from condenser!
Now remove from heat and disconnect condenser,
Now add ice water to quench reaction,
reason for ice water is to calm the reaction down when NaOH is added
Now its up to you if you want to filter out RP or leave till the end
I would leave it, it will be washed nicely by next process and be easier to filter!
Now add lots of NaOH to bring reaction mix to positive 14PH
You cannot over-basify as meth won't be destroyed, its a tough MF!

Index

Steam Distillation,

Now you need to set up your glassware for steam distillation!
So attach steam distillation sloping splash head to top hole of flask!
Now attach plastic hose to steam inlet and other end,
on release valve of pressure cooker that is full of water!
Now attach condenser on end of splash head, and rig up some kind of prop for it to stay up!
Now place a jar at the end of condenser to catch our distillate!
Now you want to heat both the pressure cooker, and the reaction flask!
Now sit back and get ready for one of the most beautiful sites and smells!
The meth free base that is sitting on the top of your aqueous layer in flask
will vaporise and be carried across and be condensed in the condenser and trickle down into your jar
It will sit atop a bottom layer of water!
After the last of the oil has come across, change jars and leave the setup to run for another hour
Just to make sure you got it all!
Any povidone from the pills will be stuck behind in the reaction vessel
It has been noted that some polymer that may have been left from extraction, may follow the steam!



Index


Crystallization,
So, now we have a jar of water, with this sweet clear oil sitting on top!
Now options are to add HCl acid slowly with stirring until oil layer disappears
and then evaporate the whole lot to get crystals!
Or, as I found, you may have some polymer that has come over with the steam
and is now sitting in the water layer, and it looks cloudy!
So I don't want to evaporate all that, it will just concentrate the shit in there
(plus its very time consuming evaporating water, plus you risk losing some meth as the water evaporates)
So, I think you should just throw a little toluene into jar,
and then separate!
Now your absolutely pure meth free base is in your toluene!
Now you can either gas, for instant clean meth, or
Add minimal DH2O and then acidify to PH7, shake, separate and evaporate water for crystals!
repeat this step if you do it this way, as some more may come in second go!
Now with this process from start to finish, you shouldn't need to re-crystallize
As your product should be the cleanest shit anybody has ever seen anyway!
But you may want to for the purpose of growing nice big crystals!
In which case, add just enough hot methanol to dissolve all your meth
and then place in freezer.
The secret is, the slower the evaporation, the bigger the crystals!
So a nice slow room temp evaporation over several days might be fun!
Enjoy, and do not attempt anything above, before you completely understand what you are doing!
You must have a sound understanding of the basics first!

One Pissed Bee!

[purewhitepanda]

METHCATHINONE


Cleaning Ephedrine
Several methods exist for the cleaning of pseudo-ephedrine, for thoroughness I will note "The Cure", written by the great Ozbee himself, which is a very detailed and preferred way to extract the pseudo-ephedrine from pills.
I recommend highly using a cleaner extraction method than the one I present here, but this will work in a pinch!

Start off by using any number of pills (use at least enough to make it worth while, but I've used as little as 2 gm). Make sure the pills don't contain acetaminophen (Tylenol), povidone, or guafinesin, as these will surely spoil the synthesis! These were cleaned in a very fast manner, again, may not be advised, to obtain optimum yields.

I started with 1440 pills of pseudo-ephedrine and placed in a wire mesh and put in an equal 'volume' of crushed ice. The cold, abrasive nature of the ice will remove the red coating and minimize the water erosion of pseudo-ephedrine from the pills. It is also acceptable to slowly trickle distilled water over the pill bunch to further remove the red, but take caution: excessive d-H2O will drop yields due to minimal loss of pseudo-ephedrine, so take it easy Once pills are cleaned in this manner, place in a 500 ml flask and add 200 ml of d-H2O. Place in microwave and let 'cook' ONLY UNTIL CONTENTS ARE HOT TO TOUCH, BUT NOT BOILING! This is one of only three critical points, so take care to do this properly. When this is finished, let the filler material settle and prepare the vacuum filtration. Liquid will still have a pink tint to it if cleaned as I did, but this is no big deal. Either decant this liquid slowly as not to disturb the gakk settled in the bottom, or can pour it all in the filter and clog it all to hell.

This WILL work, however, but you will probably spend more time scraping residue from the filter and waiting for it to finish than anything else, so my suggestion would be to decant, only a small amount of residue will fall into the filter and it will not need to be scraped for reuse unless using a smaller amount of pseudo-ephedrine. Repeat this procedure 3-4 times, or until the filler residue is no longer bitter. In any event, make sure the glassware will sustain the volume of liquid, as you will have double this amount of volume at the free base/extraction stage later on. Place this in a 1000-ml flask and put on a stir plate; drop in small stir bar and let stir.

Oxidation
Dissolve the ephedrine in water using this formula
under 1 oz -- use 30ml per 1gm of E
over 1 oz -- 250mls (initially) + 25mls per 1 gm of E used over 28 gms
Measure out 0.5 gm of K2Cr2O7 (potassium dichromate) to every 1.0 gm of pseudo-ephedrine. Add dichromate while stirring the pseudo-ephedrine and let settle as much as you can while it’s stirring. Liquid will turn a bright orange color as the dichromate is added.
*(NOTE: NO coldness was needed in this process so far, but get ready, it’s coming.)
After making sure all of the dichromate particulate has indeed dissolved, slowly add sulfuric acid (98%) at 3 ml per 1 gm of pseudo-ephedrine. This brings us to the second critical point: Add this H2SO4 SLOWLY, as adding too fast will concentrate acid and it destroys pseudo-ephedrine, so go slowly or lose product! The orange solution will now start to get a dark color as the reaction takes place. On larger batches, if foam up starts, simply remove flask from stir plate and let settle, or help settle it with a glass rod or a STAINLESS STEEL butter knife. All you are trying to do here is settle the foam down and not panic. Easy problem, easy solution! Upon completion of adding acid, (liquid will be slightly warm, almost hot during this entire addition of acid stage, so it's OK) let this solution do it’s thing for 45-60 min. You will not want to go less than 45 minutes. Because I really don't think it gives the reaction time to take place, although, I've never been patient enough to go over 60 minutes.
This would be a really good time to grab a smoke/ drink/ whatever.
While the oxidation reduction reaction is stirring for this hour or so, you can do some other things to prepare the rest of the process,

Preparation of the lye solution
Red Devil lye was used here, 100 gm NaOH was slow dissolved in 400 ml of d-H2O. **DO THIS SLOWLY, ADDING THE LYE IN 25 gm INCREMENTS, and ALLOWING IT TO DISSOLVE AND COOL TO THE TOUCH BEFORE ADDING MORE. If you cannot do this slowly, you will most probably burst the flask due to either thermal shock or superheating it to the point that you can no longer hold onto it, thus dropping it on the awaiting feet below, so you may want to consider placing the water in an ice bath BEFORE you add the lye so as to avoid the whole thermal shock thing. Remember that you have a whole hour to do this, so take your time.
Slow down reaction use ice
After 60 minutes the oxidation reaction time is up. Remove the stir bar, and place the whole flask into an ice bath. This is our third and last critical point: Notice this is the first time ice has been used on the reaction solution. Let the reaction mixture chill for 30 minutes. or so to stop the oxidization and to insure that no thermal threats will occur, as you do not want this oxidizer/acid solution pouring from a cracked flask and on to anything that may be attached to you.

[purewhitepanda]

Add lye Chromate Turns Green
Upon the completion of the 30-minute chill time, slowly pour the d-H2O/ lye mix (which should now be clear and slightly warm--maybe more than slightly, depending on how recently you made it) slowly to the oxidizer mix. You should at this time notice wisps of smoke coming from the mix. Relax, it's normal. You are looking for the mix to turn pale greenish. If it doesn't turn after all the aqueous lye solution is added, simply add more lye, although it is not necessary to dissolve it in d-H2O this time, simply pour it in slowly (think: teaspoon at a time) until it does turn green. You will start to smell the characteristic ‘pistachio’ smell, but be careful if the reaction goes back to a dark color, you will have burned the product. I don't know why this is, but YIELDS WILL SUFFER. Pour off a little of the base and test the pH, it should be at pH-12.5+, if not, add more lye at VERY SMALL increments--remember, you don't want to over gasify. I've had luck pulling a base of pH-11 or so, but the yield wasn't great.
The Goods
At this point, you will be enticed by the great smell of the pistachio, but never fear this is about to end! As soon as you get the base pH right, you may then remove this from the ice. Pour into the base about 300 ml of a non-polar of choice: Toluene, works best but availability may be limited Xylene, dries a little slower than toluene, but works the same Coleman’s camp fuel, always an option but any source of Naphtha will work in a pinch situation *Naphtha seems to leave an oily residue in the free base that isn't easily dried out when the CAT becomes an HCl-salt, so use it if it's the only thing you can find. Agitate this Toluene-base mix and let settle. The Toluene will rise to the top with the CAT free base in it. It will be an off clear to yellowish pale color. Decant this Toluene layer into a separatory funnel. You can do this twice cleanly but the third extraction will most likely yield nothing worth the time and effort. Do not allow any of the sludge to enter Sep funnel, pour only the Toluene into it, as this contains the product.
Make CAT water soluble
Add diluted HCl/d-H2O mixture to this...I used a 10% mixture and adjusted the pH as needed. My solution was 100 ml of 32% muriatic acid in 1000 ml of d-H2O that was prepared beforehand. ! You will see the water/acid/CAT fall to the bottom after you shake a few times, let this settle shortly You will be looking for a pH below 7.0 Then drain off water/acid/CAT into a beaker of appropriate size. Place on an electric stove with low to medium heat, or if you have one, place on a heating element not to exceed 150 F in either case. Let this heat until liquid turns a pale amber color or has evaporated 1/2 of the fluid away.
Microcrystals with acetone
Addition of some Acetone will form micro-crystals. These will be barely visible sized crystals and there won't be many, keep boiling and adding a little acetone looking for the crystals. We ain't done yet! When crystals begin to form Place in flask and seal with correct size stopper. Place this in the freezer for about 15-30 minutes. checking periodically to insure coldness, but not to the point of freezing!!! When chilled sufficiently, flood flask with ices cold Acetone (when the Acetone fills to the bottom part of the neck on the flask, this will be good enough). Shake vigorously for a few seconds and watch the crystals form and settle in the flask. This is the CAT in a soon to be consumable form. Let all crystals settle and strain through 2 coffee filter.

Removing the NaCl
Consistency of dried, uncut CAT will be slightly rocky, but otherwise like powdered sugar. Once the CAT has been produced and has been semi -dried, we need to remove nasty NaCl and other salts that appear in the final product. While still in the filter add some dry alcohol such as Methyl alcohol (Methanol) or Denatured alcohol. Dissolve as much of the dry CAT powder into denatured alcohol as is possible. (The (salt) NaCl will not dissolve) The filter traps unwanted salt Collect the liquid \Cat/Alcohol in and a clean flask or bowl. Bring the CAT/alcohol to a slow, soft boil. DO NOT LET THIS MIXTURE OVERHEAT! Keep a constant surveillance on this at all times and NEVER do this over an open flame or other source of ignition, use a warmer plate or a hot plate with a temp regulator.
Final re-crystallizing
As soon as some crystals form, seal the container up tightly and place in the freezer for approx. 8-12hrs for re crystallization. Pure CAT will slowly form; the crystals will be tight and clean. Filter the crystals to remove the alcohol. While in the filter lightly rinse away all alcohol and residue from the crystals with a splash of cold dry acetone. Let air dry, and enjoy!
Comments
Yield on this synthesis should be at 80% or higher, depending on how clean the pseudo-ephedrine is. One needs to exercise extreme caution that at no time a flame is introduced around Toluene, Denatured Alcohol, or Acetone, and the recommendation of some light rubber gloves would make acid handling safe. This synthesis was reconstructed for simplicity and consistency, as well as my own personal experience of trial by error. All elements here key off the use of pseudo-ephedrine in grams, NOT MILLIGRAMS, so adjust weight accordingly! None of these chemicals are on the highly dreaded watch list and most can be had right from hardware stores and Wal-Mart.

[purewhitepanda]

Originally Posted by spiked_converse

WHAT LETHAL TOXINS R U USING? (INGREDIENTS FOR METH AKA CRANK, FARMERS / COUNTRY / NAZI DOPE)


**** I DO NOT CONDONE TO ANY OF THE BELOW AND IS FOR EDUCATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY. IF YA WANNA GO FOR IT I CAN'T STOP YOU AND IT'S YOUR LIFE AND
**** OTHERS YOU MIGHT BE THROWING AWAY....KNOWING THAT PPL AREN'T GOING TO LISTEN TO ME JUST
DDDDOOOO NNNOOOTTT GUESSSSS AT MIXING OR SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH WILL OCCUR!!!!



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PART 1 - CAN ALL BE FOUND AT HARDWARE / ANIMAL FEED - OUTDOOR/ CONVENIENT STORES ;-)


-- 1 liter plastic bottle (to mix ingrediants in steps 1 - 5) PREFERABLY BIG OPENING TOP like most pepsi prod. aka sunkist

# 1 - 3300 fertilizer (white rocks) 1/2

# 2 - 12 hrs sudafed 100% pseudoephedrine (3-6 boxes depending on how much;Try NOT to get flavored pills bc it leaves alot of trash)

# 3 - coleman fuel red can (liquid extra filtered)

# 4 - lithium batt. (lithium energizer AAs - when taking strips out make sure not to grab "blow up strip" aka the black strip with thin piece of foil in it) ANY METAL GETS INSIDE.....BOOOM!!! GAME OVER

# 5 - 100% household lye (helps reduce acid and stabilizes the mix)

# 6 - 1 cap full of water (Apox. 20 oz - 1 liter cap, no more!) Don't wanna blow up eh?

** IF YOU KNOW WHAT YOUR DOING THE MAGIC WILL START HAPPENING WITHIN 10-30sec.
YOU'LL SEE THE BUBBLES OF JOY ** (TWIST CAP JUST A BIT EVERY FEW MIN. TO RELEASE THE AMONIA GAS N PREVENT EXPLOTION)
GAS WILL CAUSE CHEMICAL BURN

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PART 2 AKA GAS OFF = (INGREDIENTS)

** I DO NOT CONDONE NOR PARTAKE IN THIS, BUT IF YA KNOW WHAT YA DOING YA ALMOST THERE!!
(EDUCATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY IF YOU DON'T KNOW WHATS GOING ON DO NOT TRY!!!!)

1-2 ft tube...fish tank tubing will do (cut hole in cap and run tube 1/2 down in 20 oz bottle n rest out for gas off)

20 oz bottle(for gas off...mix salt n draino) run tube out of-
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# 1 - non iodized salt (mix with drain for gas off)

# 2 - liquid fire aka lightning draino (mix with salt when gas off) gas WILL BURN your HAND !!

# 3 - after ya gas off all prod. fall to bottom of the bottle or what ur using pour through 2-3 combined filters n dry

** EVERYTHING IN THIS SYNTHESIS IS ONLY FOR EDUCATIONAL PURPOSES AND NOT INTENDED
FOR THE USE OF ANY PERSON AND BREAKING YOUR COUNTRY'S LAWS !!! I WILL NOT BE HELP RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR RETARTEDNESS.
PEACE.... -THE NIGHTCRAWLER

This synthesis is a waste of time. Its missing a lot of (INGREDIENTS AND EQUIPMENT) and 3-6 boxes wouldn't make anything for anyone. Try more like 70-90 boxes. And flavoring has nothing to do with anything that leaves you with a lot of waste product (YOU CAN WASH THAT OFF). It's guaifenesin which is what will leave you with a lot of crap left over and will make you loose most of what you wanted to begin with (pseudo ephedrine). And you say don't guess but that's all your leaving someone to do after reading this.

!!! I WILL NOT BE HELP RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR RETARTEDNESS.

Yes you didn't help and you didn't be responsible. Your a retard for giving bad information.

[dechardin]

So, just to confirm this method which this guy clearly stole from "clandestine chemist notebook" - Birch Reduction Method #2 is fake?

I mean a lot of elements seem incomplete, but using lithium is a viable method anyone with more info on this?

[303just]

The method has been around for awhile but the only problem i see is the pills gelling up?

[unknow2121]

Originally Posted by death-of-light

not bad work on the spelling a bit and you should fit in.
headcase, since mac left the forms how about a fact check?

very very close just let me tell you but one thing your missing is how much of each your sapost to mix so whats the detail on that or dont you know its simple but if you know as much as i you say tell me

[Pikkle Juice]

im not sure if this is true since i myself dont do meth but i heard all you need is a ceramic bowl, a field, 1 bottle smith&wesson gun blue, and 1 bottle hobby store jet fuel(for model airplanes)

just go out into the field with everything(make sure there are no power cables nearby) and slowly but equaly pour the to chemicals in the bowl and leave come back in an hour and you have a hunk the size of your fist

[Excited Delirium]

I might try it but I normally just use the birch extraction method number 2 from the clandestine chemists notebook.A lot better than the crystal method from the first post.

[Foodgrade]

I doubt that anyone literate enough to read this thread would actually try any of this. A person educated in chemistry wouldn't need it. Educated people who are not chemists wouldn't dare, and people who would, can't read well enough to understand any of it. Even if they could, it seems easier to steal something and buy the drugs.

The same goes for the explosives stuff. Why get fancy? Buy black powder, gasoline or propane cans. A cutting torch can do a lot of damage and so can compressed gas. There would be no thinking involved and certainly no dubious recipes from a website that might have been designed by the government to kill you if you tried any of this stuff.

Try Yahoo love, it's marginally safer. At least a bad lover will only drive you nuts and take your money.

[Misanthropy]

This is some funny shit. I bet some of you cats were on TOTSE also, am I right? Some of you no doubt still think the Anarchist's Cookbook is legitimate... ("It's a bad scene, man")

There's plenty of information out there on these things. Wetdreams.ws of course, sciencemadness.org (don't join if you aren't literate & knowledgeable in O-chem please), blacklight.ru, psychonaut.com etc etc etc.

This is a neat forum for some things but clandestine chemistry is evidently best learned elsewhere.

God I miss the Hive.

/Mis

[Misanthropy]

Never did see or figure out a viably successful elctro reduction of L-eph or D-pseu but electrolytic processing of cinnemaldehyde to benzaldehyde was done for the Friedel-Crafts, however it's higher yielding to just boil the aldehyde in a base & distill the acetaldehyde & benzaldehyde away from each other.

[Misanthropy]

Originally Posted by aquagirl

There is no ghetto sub.

Indeed, but in a pinch there's this whole ziplock bag with a pinhole in the corner trick...

[jakesneed]

what do you mean aquagirl, when you say, "pouring over patents"? ive never myself cooked or even seen a lab, but have entertained the idea of doing so. i have studied many articles, most of which are bs, and have found a few text that seem to be legit. including work from the hive. i managed to get the entire hive forum downloaded. if someone could obtain the precurrsors illegally, how would you feel about that? Considering they have never done it before, are in need of a lotta money, and need to make a heavy batch. you being who you are and all, what adivce would you give to someone looking for that information?

[Misanthropy]

All you need to know is out there, readily available as told. Rhodium's archives, wetdreams.ws & the like can easily answer any questions you may have. What specifically do you want to know? Can we help point you to some specific route?

What precursors are you interested in starting with?

[Misanthropy]

Originally Posted by Macaveli

Dont anyone listen to this shit.

Especially the fucking idiot above me that said you can make ice outta brake fluid.

Dumbass moron, Ice is fucking pure meth jackass. CHLORINE TABLETS. STFU!

Well, actually, they call any clear, crystalline substance containing methamphetamine "ice". Could be nearly pure MSM with meth flavoring and they'd call it ice.

[spunone69]

Ahhhh....good ole MSM, the smoker's NIGHTMARE!! This whole thread is hilarious!! These "recipes" have been floating around the "net" since 1989 when the Loompanics Press "Secrets of Methamphetamine Manufacturing" (Blue edition, not pink) came out!! They purposely changed the formula's and reactions in the pink edition so that they wouldn't work!! If you want REAL meth, find a reliable dealer!! I don't do the shit anymore, so I just read this stuff for a good laugh...that shit will destroy your brain, your life, and everything around you!! Trust me, I was a meth-head for over 20 years! Been clean for three years now...and I don't miss it one bit!!

[Misanthropy]

Well, I grew up in the lab. Been living in it since birth. Started helping in production at 12 with my father & when I was 17 I got my GED, enrolled in electronics engineering, graduated in 18 months, got my AAS in that w/ a minor in comp sci, graduated in another 9 months with an AAS in network engineering, got hired at Intel, left Intel, bounced around & started up my own chemical supply company.

Thank you meth.

It's not the drug that destroys people, it's the people that are typically drawn to a certain type of addiction & self debasement.

I've also now been clean for a few years but congratulations to you also.

Just don't blame a drug; that's removing the dimension of personal responsibility which is really the issue at hand. OK?

[Misanthropy]

Well, look, whatever route you so choose to make whatever you so choose, do yourself a favor and at least get some decent gear. You can do a lot of things with just a small scale set like this.

[Badass420]

Here's how I was taught:

Remember, you can get these ingredients from alot of different shit, so some people use different things. I knew a guy that used Miracle Gro plant spikes for his Nitrate.

You need:

2-3 boxes Pseudoephedrine HCL
1/3 cup Ammonium Nitrate (Cold packs, Cut open and toss water pack)
1/3 cup 100% Lye
2 Lithium strips (I use Energizer Ultimate Lithium, the 8x ones, Dunno if it matters)
3 cups Coleman fuel
Water (1/2 capful)
1/3 cup UN-iodized salt
1 capful Hydrochloric Acid (drain cleaner)
Funnel
18" of tubing (Ice machine repair kits)
1 gallon GLASS wine bottle with twist on cap (Clean and DRY)
1 20oz pop bottle (Clean and DRY)
Coffee Filters
Pipe cutter or some kind of snips to get the batteries open
Needle nose pliers (to peel open battery)

I gotta go right now, but I will post the STEP BY STEP method probably tomorrow morning.

Be careful, this method is dangerous. Water + Lithium strip + pool of Coleman fuel = BOOM

[Misanthropy]

Hey don't bother. You can't even be troubled to provide accurate information such as, oh, I dunno, MEASUREMENTS!

[fearnoevil]

Maybe you should put a sock in it Mis and stop playing forum cop. You may be a chemist, but you have a closed mind typical of the larger scientific community at large, i.e. they are always the FIRST to claim something can't be done, even though their job is in the discovery business and doing what hasn't been done before.

From much of what I've read recently, Badass's recipe seems in line with this new "Shake and Bake" method that is now making the rounds. BTW, I used to hang out over at Totse and Wetdreams, so I do know a bit about cooking. And if you care to do a little searching, you'd find that Dwarfer has done a write-up about a similar process.

So anywho, Badass, please continue and elaborate on your tek, please. ;?D

[fearnoevil]

OK, here's a short write-up, not an in-depth work-up, but then it's simply intended to show that there bee folks out there using this "Shake and Bake" method. This is not swif's tek and I won't name the poster, since I did not ask his/her permission to do so. But this IS a working tek and a starting place, though swiy should not fuck with this shit until they fully understand the risks involved. Yah, it is dangerous and serious injury or death are possible outcomes if you screw the pooch, lol.
BTW, everything in blue parenthesis is added, either by me or some other bee.

establish working ratios:
A place to start from
- Li (lithium) per gram of E (i.e. pseudo)
this is a working ratio to start with for Li:E
1 bunny AA strip : 4.8 g's of E

- Ammonia Nitrate & Base per gram of E
SO 1/4 cup ( dry measurement ) of 'Finely Powdered Ammonia Nitrate [AN](fertilizer)
is enough for 3.6 to 4.8 g's of E

- know that you should match Lye qty used to the Powdered AmNitrate (i.e. 1:1 ratio)


- Amount of H2O to use per gram of E
start off with a half a pop bottle cap full for 3.6 to 7.2g's
***** has yet to establish optimal H2O qty.. yet.. but this is a good place to start where success will be had (1/3 of a liter bottle cap equals 2.5mL advised).


- know that ether, camp fuel & BBQ Grill Lighter fuid ALL WORK ! (the camping fuel works great, but works much better when constant heat is on the rxn, which it should bee! Ether is a superior puller though.)


- know that trying to get creative and PreClean the Pills has often resulted in a failure.. for now GUP CHUCK em (grind pills and toss in w/o cleaning)!

- remember what goes in / comes out and choose your E beans wisely ( read the inactive list and pick the least offensive looking)

- know that either Pse HCl or Pse Sulfate work fine (a hint that helped **** on the sulfates, UP yer lye ratio by one third! **** promises it will help, but of course it will bee even more hard to control the pressure from take off.)

- know that if your gas evolution peters out, you can open up the bottle and add more 'Ammonia & Base' (or submerge in hot water or shake harder! swim has never had to add more base or AN)

- know that enough ammonia needs to be generated to form/create nearly All Li Bronze where the Li has been consumed (research Li Bronze aka Li(NH3)4 )

- know that submerging the bottle in hot water can exite the gas production: this may or may not be ok becuse of the amount of Ammonia the NP can hold is higher when cold. But ***** has used this to push things along. (as mentioned earlier, this works wonderfully! if using the camp fuel, it sure helps the yields.)


- know that you can store Unused Li in Vegetable Oil (or mineral oil) for future use after cleaning with NP sol's.


A few tips: Wear protective gear and face shield VERY IMPORTANT. Reaction vessel should be sound, single use only btw, and never fill more than 2/3 full as you need space for gas pressure to build (helps prevent explosive events). Mix dry ingredients as follows - AN and Lye, finely powdered mix well, then add E. Add NP solvent then H2o and finally the Li - dont put the Li in the NP before the H2o. Shake vigorously to start and then vent then repeat every couple of minutes till reaction gets going (15-30 min) then throughout as reaction dies down. Check pressure of bottle and crack (just barely) to relieve some excess pressure but not all. Pressure is an important part of the reaction and necessary for completion. Make sure the AN and Lye are anhydrous, DRY, before adding as minimal H2o is a key to de-gak. Same with gassing, make sure your HCL is dry. The above can be modified by adding the E LAST and forming the Li Bronze first, then adding the E.

Dont:
- do more than 7.2 ish g's in a regular sized gatorade bottle
- worry about 'Equipment Setups'...yet
- try this indoors..
- ask so many crazy questions until you have
actually gotten your feet wet !


BUT DO TRY THIS

One must learn to crawl and walk before they can fly.

Refine your skills in these necessary areas for success:
- preparing containers for use: drying them and keeping them dry
- post reaction, ammonia removal from NP (heat to 90f. to remove excess ammonia)
- proper HCL gassing with Concentrated H2SO4 & NaCl2 (table salt)
& SUPERIOR RESULTS. drying your HCL gas before using it.(i.e. you need an inline dryer )

- filtering & collecting the MA (meth), that dry gassing of the dry NP solvent has precipitated out.

[hog]

I haven't seen any formula nor procedure for single container cooking. Shake & Bake...what is it really?

thank you. Don't flame me because I am new; i'm sensitive about that shit.