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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 07-16-2005, 01:50 PM
Jago Jago is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heretic88
hey im pretty new to making HE myself what precautions should i take like when ever i store it in the fridge is there a possibility that it would go off, and how exactly unstable is the stuff like slamming the fridge door would that set it off, or if i set it out in the light would it go off after a while. sorry for being a noob here lol but ive always been interested in HE
best not to store it at all, it's just not one of those things you can store, AP that is.
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 07-16-2005, 05:48 PM
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AP can be stored underwater for some time. It will keep it from decomposing. But as Sphynx said, you shouldn't really have to store it, AP is one of those things made as needed.
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 07-16-2005, 10:08 PM
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I have always wanted to store AP in the old days, when putting it in a zip-lock baggie it worked perfect nothing evaporated or decomposed.
And now I use lead azide storable up to 10 years or something like that, the army uses it too...
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 07-17-2005, 07:03 AM
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You use lead azide?? jeese, how long does it take you to make that
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 07-18-2005, 09:49 PM
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Like 2 hours in total, a lot quicker then making TCAP.
It is a preticipation reaction.
Because you have 2 soluable chemicals but when they react there will be formed a chemical which is not soluable in water so there will be crystals.
Just filtrate it let dry and tadaa lead azide, have a look at the pdf I posted about lead azide there are pictures inside etc etc etc.
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 07-19-2005, 05:19 PM
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I thought lead azide was the explosive that took like 3 days to make. What am i thinking of?
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 07-19-2005, 11:44 PM
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If you make sodium azide it could easily take three days.
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 07-20-2005, 02:30 AM
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Storing in a bag or underwater does not eliminate decomposition, it just drasticly slows the process.

There are plenty of explosives that take 3 days to make so there are several you could be thinking of. You need to be more descriptive.
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 07-20-2005, 03:38 AM
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No, it was either an azide or a lead compound and drex said it. TNT takes a 3 days too (the 3 step nitration) by the way, does anyone know the 1 step nitration?
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 07-20-2005, 01:44 PM
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Cant see how it relates to the thread but http://www.roguesci.org/theforum/showthread.php?t=4552
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 07-28-2005, 07:54 PM
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This is according to a site I once visited. I saved the page and here is the copy & pasted version:


Materials

- 250mL Beaker
- Graduated Cylinder
- Thermometor
- Eye Dropper
- Coffee Filter - Acetone
- 30% Hydrogen Peroxide
- 80-100% Sulfuric Acid
- Sodium Bicarbonate (baking soda)
- Distilled Water

10g of Acetone Peroxide

- 10mL of Acetone
- 11mL of 30% Hydrogen Peroxide
- 2mL of 80-100% Sulfuric Acid

25g of Acetone Peroxide

- 25mL of Acetone
- 27mL of 30% Hydrogen Peroxide
- 5mL of 80-100% Sulfuric Acid

50g of Acetone Peroxide

- 50mL of Acetone
- 54mL of 30% Hydrogen Peroxide
- 8mL of 80-100% Sulfuric Acid

Procedure


Start by taking your 250mL beaker, and pour in the required amound of acetone in it. Then pour in the required amount of hydrogen peroxide in the beaker with the acetone. Stir this together, and put it in an salt ice bath until the temperatur is 5 degrees Celcius. After is has cooled down to 5 degrees, start adding the sulfuric acid SLOWLY with the eye dropper. Do NOT let the temperature go above 10 degrees. After the required amount of acid has been added, stir the solution for about 5 min. You will already start seeing some crystals form. Stick the solution inside a refrigerator for about 6 hours or more. After about 6 hours the reaction should be finnnished. Filter out the crystals with a coffee filter. Then pour some distilled water over the crystals in the filter. Then slowly pour a solution of sodium bicarbonate over the crystals to neutralize any remaining acid. Finnaly pour some more distilled water over the crystals, and stick them on some news paper to dry.
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 07-29-2005, 10:42 AM
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i didn't use set volumes, well, the last times i made it, including the big ass batches i made.
I used 12& peroxide, and 30& HCl, and 100% acetone
Roughly used a 3:1 ratio of Peroxide:Acetone. Chilled in the freezer for a bit, added the acid in the freezer while stirring, let it cool some more then transfered to the fridge.
I was fucking AMAZED with the yields from one of my big batches, was easily up in the 90 percentile.
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 07-29-2005, 05:33 PM
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There are always warnings about letting the temperature get too high. How big of a concern should this be for me? I ask because not many seem to mention it when posting here :?
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 07-29-2005, 05:36 PM
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Don't worry about those, they are a crock of shit about giving noticable differences. I know people that don't even cool it off when they make it. But still, its best to keep it cold, just for practice, and i mean your dealing with something that will easily kill you, so why not take the neccesary precautions.
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 07-29-2005, 06:23 PM
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quick question about H2O2...could you not concentrate say 3% peroxide into a percent of about 30%? or even more? only other way to get high quality peroxide that I know of near where I live is going toa hydroponics place and dishing out $50+ for 500mL of 30%
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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 07-29-2005, 07:09 PM
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You can purify 3% H2O2 to 30% by boiling away the water. I don't know about getting a higher percent than this though.
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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 07-29-2005, 07:29 PM
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how would you go about doing this though? I mean, how would you know when enough water was evaporated?
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  #48 (permalink)  
Old 07-29-2005, 08:54 PM
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Measure the original ammount of 3% and then calculate (can't remember how much it is but for 900mL you boil down to 270mL or something like that).
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  #49 (permalink)  
Old 07-29-2005, 10:17 PM
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The easiest way to concentrate past 30 is to mix with diethyl ether, then decant the fluids, and let the diethyl ether evaporate. I wouldn't do this though.
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  #50 (permalink)  
Old 07-29-2005, 10:36 PM
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Over 30% would just be rediculous in my opinion. This girl in my math class said she had 100%..I will never believe her.
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  #51 (permalink)  
Old 07-29-2005, 11:07 PM
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Anything over 90% is quite hazardous as it will decompose from dust contamination. The stuff I have is 35%.
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  #52 (permalink)  
Old 07-29-2005, 11:13 PM
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And keep high conc. H2O2 away from leather... Trust me on this... The leather will burst into flames on contact with anything higher than 60% IIRC.
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  #53 (permalink)  
Old 07-30-2005, 02:28 PM
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anyone know what the "10 volume" means on the H2O2 label? even my chem teacher couldn't explain it

Edit: I'm not sure if I CAN boil peroxide without losing it...and they add some...Acetanilide which boils at around 300 celcius while peroxide boils at 114 .....then again...the solubility of Acetanilide is 1gm/185 ml water sooo its pretty scarse in there......anyone know what the Acetanilide is being used for?
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  #54 (permalink)  
Old 07-30-2005, 09:25 PM
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No but you should be able to boil away the water, it is mostly water in there and water boils at 100*C while peroxide boils at 114. So it will be fine.
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  #55 (permalink)  
Old 07-31-2005, 03:00 AM
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10 volumes would be 3% concentrated.
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  #56 (permalink)  
Old 08-01-2005, 04:41 PM
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Indeed, I know K9's respected here, but I'll just second his statement.

Either way, check the other ingrediants because it sounds like you're using hydrogen peroxide from the hair salon which is likely to contain other ingrediants including sulphuric acid which as stated earlier will heat up your mixture... Or so I've been told. :wink:
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  #57 (permalink)  
Old 08-01-2005, 05:40 PM
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If there is H2SO4 in the H2O2 it couldn't be much, on all my bottles I have never seen anything about sulfuric being in there. Then again maybe I buy different kinds of H2O2 than you guys..
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  #58 (permalink)  
Old 08-01-2005, 06:38 PM
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If you use purified h2o2, instead of buying a bottle of 30% or 27%, your gonna get shit yeilds. First of all its stablized, second of all theres a bunch of crap in there that doesn't come out like the water does. If you purify it, i would suggest you label it as 25%, not 30
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  #59 (permalink)  
Old 08-01-2005, 06:48 PM
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I haven never been able to find 30% H2O2 anywhere around here. So I have to purify my own, I don't have any choice really.
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  #60 (permalink)  
Old 08-01-2005, 07:37 PM
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Me either, although I am going to be trying some other sources shortly.

My reference for the ingredients is the fact that a bottle of 6% or 20 volts is under my sink and this brand does come in stronger strengths, but contains additives. I know that this is a very low concentration for what we want, but I'm not using this for explosives... I'm dying my hair in the next couple of day's.

I think the strongest this brand comes is 12%.
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