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My guide to car theft *not completed*
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Old 05-16-2007, 10:03 PM
paininvmuthafuckinass paininvmuthafuckinass is offline
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Default My guide to car theft *not completed*

GTA
Written by paininvmuthafuckinass AKA slim-ov-derby

What this guide will be set up into

What doesn't work
Recommended cars (old)
Recommended cars (new)
Getting into the car (old)
Getting into the car (new)
Starting the car
Bypassing alarms
Some basic things when driving away


What doesn't work
Ok 1st of all just to get the bullshit out of the way I'm going to tell you what doesn't work.

1. Ripping off under the dash cutting wires and crossing them and what not; that's all bullshit that too many people have seen in the movies, so don't do this!
2. The tennis ball with a hole in it and pushing the lock pins up die to pressure does work, but only on old cars and even sometimes then it won't work


Recommended cars (old)
Fords
Ford Escort 1992-1996
Ford Fiesta 1992-1995
Ford Orion any in 1992 or before
Ford Scorpio all of them made in 1989-1995

Vauxhalls
Vauxhall Nova
Vauxhall Astra mk 1 + 3
Vauxhall Carlton (Easiest one of the lot, and is a common pick for thieves)
Vauxhall Cavalier mk1 and 3

Rovers
Rover Metro (easy to steal and the tennis ball definitely works for it, but they are shit)
Austin Maestro

Any convertible (very few have alarms)

The reason these cars are recommended are because these are the easiest and better 1992 car models which don't have an alarm or an immobilizer and it makes your getaway quicker with us not having to deal with alarms and what not


Recommended cars (new)
Peugeot 206- any
Ford Focus- 2002
Mazda 6- 2005
Any convertible (very few have alarms)

The reason why I recommend these cars is because I just do!, and because they have easy alarms to defeat and are quick and suitable


Getting into the car (old)
Tennis ball pressure method
Ok well first of all if your going for any 1980's-1992 car the tennis ball method will work surprisingly, but again not all the time -_-; but I'll still tell you how you do it.
It works on most old cars though because their keyholes stick out like buttons like in the pic below (it has a black box to make the lock stick out):

First get a tennis ball and a screwdriver. Heat the screwdriver head up and burn a hole inside the tennis ball as pictured below but make it so the hole is the same size circumference as the lock:

Now what you do is make sure the hole in the tennis ball is covering the entire lock, and then you push the tennis ball as hard an quick as you can; keep doing this if it doesn't work at first, and the air pressure from inside the tennis ball should force the pins up on the car lock and allow you to open the door.

Better alternative
Now as I said it will NOT always work, so I'm providing you with a better alternative.
What you'll need is a flathead screwdriver and a hammer and possibly a cloth to help.
What you do is take your flatheaded screwdriver and put it in the lock as much as you can, and when you can't get it in much more hammer it in as far as you can, and then put your cloth over the handle of the screwdriver and begin turning the screwdriver left and right repeatedly so that you break the locks pins and making the door obviously easy to open.


Getting into the car (new)
Before I tell you anything about breaking into any newer cars, I'm first going to give you all a tip.

When you're looking for a newer/posher/more expensive car it is better to go to areas and neighbourhoods that are rich and low in crime rate.
The reason behind this being that the rich cunts in these areas all know and usually trust each other and because of the low crime rate, some snobby bastard MIGHT leave their car unlocked because they feel safe.
So always check first to see if the car is already unlocked; but be warned that since they're richer they WILL have alarms in the car.

Slim jimming
Slim jimming is most likely your best method for newer cars.
First of all you'll need a slim jim (I suggest actually buying one so it comes with instructions [you'll see why later])
Here's what you're looking for anyway (sizes vary):

If you are a beginner you should ask the manufacturers maintenance and read the manual. You should try to become familiar with the door locking mechanism you are trying to unlock. These mechanisms vary from model year to year and from one manufacturer to another. The control arm may be located to the front or rear of the door lock.

What you do is separate the weather stripping from the window, slide the slim jim in notch end 1st and you should be trying to get the slim jims notch under the bar and then lift up to unlock the car. The bar is most of the time 8 inches under the lock button; so once you
find/feel it, push down slowly and then pull it up fast and it should pop the lock up.

If you can't get a slim jim then you should just get a coat hanger and bend it into the shape in the pic below (well something to that extent anyway) and use that in the same way.


Popping the window out
As soon as you read this you may have been thinking "wtf this is fucking ridiculous we're going to get caught"
Well first of all there is no life without risk and this is probably not what you're thinking anway so shut up and read.

1st of all do this on the passenger side because the glass MIGHT shatter, and we don't want glass sticking in our arse while we drive.

What you do is take a screwdriver and put it inside the weather stripping and turn it to the side, or slide it along the quarter glass and it should either crack the window or pop it out. And it's been suggested to have some dowel to lever on.


Starting the car

Getting the steering wheel lock off
Ok now that your in the car you my notice a steering wheel lock.
Now there are 2 ways of dealing with this and both ways they definitely relieve stress lets put it that way.

1. You can turn it as hard as you can from left to right until it breaks
2. You can sit back and kick the bottom part of the steering wheel off so that there is no other part for the lock to stay on, so it will fall off (see diagram below if you don't get me)


Now what I suggest before starting the car up is putting the gear box into neutral and then taking the handbrake off and letting it roll away from the persons house before starting it up (just so it's less likely to wake them up)

You can use many ways to take the ignition barrel out to start the car up so I'll cover 2 of them here:
Take your best friend Mr Screwdriver and put him between the dash and ignition barrel and pry it out like in the pic below:

Now shove your screwdriver in there and turn until you get the engine up and running.

Second way is by using a dent puller; and the way you do this is to put it into the ignition and then just pull the fucker out, put your screwdriver in and turn.

Here is an alternate way of starting the car up:
Feel around the steering wheel column until you can feel a gap; now pull back as hard as you can and rip it off. Opposite the ignition barrel there's a black cap which you'll need to break off so that you can get to a square hole for you to put your flathead screwdriver into, and then...you guessed it, turn and start her up.


Bypassing alarms(old)
Not all old cars have alarms but some do; and you can tell which they are by looking on the dash for a red light that's blinking.
To get passed the alarms you'll need to take the head light cover off, take out the indicator bulb and then put your screwdriver or anything metal in it's place; what this does it short circuit the alarm.
But in the head light is just one of the many places a car alarm is. It really depends on the car and you'll need to do some research on them yourself (I'm not doing all the work for you you lazy fuckers)

Here are some resources for you:
HowStuffWorks "Car-alarm Door Sensors"
HowStuffWorks "How Car Alarms Work"

Some basic things to keep in mind when driving away
-Now what I suggest before starting the car up is putting the gear box into neutral and then taking the handbrake off and letting it roll away from the persons house before starting it up (just so it's less likely to wake them up)
-Stay off main roads and stick to back streets
-It's recommended you steal someone else's plates and switch them
-If you gained entry with screwdriver then get the locks changed, because chop shops don't like fucked up locks
-Same with the ignition barrel

I'll be updating the alarms section when I have more time, but I thought I'd bring it forward for you all anyway

Last edited by Random; 10-12-2008 at 04:07 AM.
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Old 05-17-2007, 12:06 AM
behindthemask behindthemask is offline
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As I've said on all of the sites we visit. Nice job!
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Old 05-30-2007, 07:46 AM
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NICE! pain your guides kickass!
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Old 05-31-2007, 07:57 PM
booga1134 booga1134 is offline
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Super guide but I wouldnt wish those POS cars on anyone, lol.
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Old 05-31-2007, 09:51 PM
Kaos-theory Kaos-theory is offline
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i dont see why you have put a hole int he tennis ball though cutting it in half is enough.

but yes good guide i shall sticky it

take one gold star from the desk.
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Old 07-21-2007, 02:39 AM
carthief carthief is offline
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Don't get me wrong but this post is not the greatest guide. I am an expert in the business and I can tell you how to steal any car you want. just send me a message or go to www.kinut.net but here is some help:

The best way to steal a GM is Photoshop! If you have lost your keys you can go to the Parts department at any GM dealership and tell them your story of how you lost your keys in the lake, they will then ask you to show proof of ownership. Here is where Photoshop comes in, scan your registration or title to the car you actually own and change the details to the car you want. If you cant photoshop very well, do the registration, print, then copy it to make it look like a fax. Then take it to an out-of-town dealership so you can say it was faxed to you. Insurance is the easiest and you should print that out as well just to have as more proof. Once they get the proof they need, they will either call a 1800 # or log into a GM website and enter your vin and their dealer info and gm will fax them your key codes and the proper resistance value. They can cut the key right there and give it to you.
Some dealers will copy your registration with your DL and “put it on file”. Most won’t bother. I had one dealer do that to me on the Doug Rippie Z06 I was going to steal, so I just didn’t bother getting it. I found another Z06 that was a little faster so I tried the same way, they copied it also. So I had the guy behind the counter look up a bunch of other parts for my car and when he walked away I reached over the counter and took it .
I try not to risk it when I don’t have to, if they did keep that paper with your info I really doubt anything will ever come from it, the car is gone, the owner or dealership will report it to insurance and that’s it for that cars life. If that car was at that dealership they would put 2 and 2 together. I good fake ID would be a great way to do it.

Details on the PASS-Key System
The personal automotive security system (PASS-Key®) is standard equipment on certain GM vehicles. The system is designed to prevent vehicle theft by disabling the engine unless an ignition key with a specific electrical resistance is used in the ignition cylinder. The PASS-Key® system and the content theft deterrent system operate separately.

There are 15 different ignition key resistance values. Of the 15 different resistance values, or key codes available, only one will work with each body control module (BCM). Once the key code is programmed into the BCM, the code is stored in non-volatile memory.
The PASS-Key® system prevents the engine from starting by controlling the theft deterrent relay and the powertrain control module (PCM) fuel enable input. If the PCM does not sense the proper fuel enable signal, fuel will not be provided to the engine.
If the wrong resistance value is sensed when the ignition switch is in the RUN position, the BCM will not ground the theft deterrent relay control circuit and will not provide the fuel enable signal for approximately three minutes. The engine is prevented from starting and discourages a thief from trying key codes or resistance values at random.
If the correct resistance value is sensed when the ignition switch is in the RUN position, the BCM will ground the theft deterrent relay control circuit and enable fuel delivery. The engine will start normally.
If the PASS-Key® system detects an open or short to ground when the ignition switch is in the RUN position, the BCM will default to fail enable mode. Fail enable occurs when the proper key resistance is sensed before the open short to ground occurs. Fail enable will illuminate the security indicator lamp and allow the operator to stop and start the vehicle until the problem is corrected.

The PASS-Key® system includes the following components:
Ignition key
Ignition cylinder
Body control module (BCM)
Theft deterrent relay
Powertrain control module (PCM)
SECURITY indicator

Ignition Key
The ignition key is a typical square ignition key blank with an imbedded resistor. The key blank and resistor are not serviceable separately. There are 15 different resistance values. The ignition key also has mechanical cuts similar to non-PASS-Key® ignition keys.

Ignition Cylinder
The ignition cylinder contains a set of electrical contacts used to measure the resistor in the ignition key. When the ignition key is inserted into the lock cylinder, the resistor in the key makes contact with the electrical contacts inside the ignition cylinder.

Body Control Module
The Body Control Module (BCM) contains the theft deterrent system logic. The BCM reads the key code from the ignition cylinder when the ignition is turned to the START position. If the code is correct, the BCM will enable the theft deterrent relay and will send a fuel enable signal to the PCM via the class 2 serial data circuit.
If the BCM receives the wrong code, the BCM will immediately go into tamper mode. The tamper mode will lock-out the vehicle starter and fuel injectors for 3 minutes. The SECURITY indicator will flash while the BCM is in tamper mode.

Theft Deterrent Relay
The theft deterrent relay is used to prevent the engine from cranking if the correct resistance is not sensed at the ignition key. It prevents the engine from cranking by opening the circuit to the starter solenoid.

Powertrain Control Module
The PCM communicates with the BCM over the Class 2 serial data circuit. When the BCM enters tamper mode, it sends a Class 2 message to the PCM in order to disable the fuel injection system. If the BCM receives the expected ignition code, the BCM sends a class 2 message to the PCM in order to enable the fuel injection system. The PCM then allows the vehicle to start.

SECURITY Indicator
The SECURITY indicator is located on the instrument cluster. The SECURITY indicator is controlled by the BCM via the class 2 serial data circuit.



Most fords now have a PATS(Passive Anti Theft Security) key system. P.A.T.S. was introduced starting with select models in the 1996 model year, F-series 1999, and Super duties in 2008. Duplicate keys can be made only with the Ford NGS computer or if you have the key(s) to the car.

With PATS I, as long as you have at least one working key and can read the owners manual that came with the vehicle, you've got a good shot at programming your new key.

With PATS II, two working keys are required for admittance to the programming show.
http://www.fordf150.net/howto/patskey.php
Program a pats key

The Ford NGS Computer can be bought by anyone, and is easy to learn. With this you can program the key to work with the car you need. The biggest downfall of this is the computer has a 10 minute delay while programming the key. It’s costly but you can easily pay for it with one car. We first bought ours just to get one car. Buying directly was the cheapest route for a new one. Ebay sells plenty of used ones.

PATS key(one of many)




PATS I equipped vehicles include the following.
Contour V6 Duratech 1998
Mustang 1996 - 1997
Taurus LX, SHO 1996 - 1997
Expedition 1997 - 1998
Mark VIII 1997
Mystique LS 1998
Navigator 1997 - 1998
Sable 1996 - 1997 (some)

PATS II equipped vehicles include the following.
Aviator2003 - 2005
Blackwood 2002 - 2003
Mark LT 2006
Mustang 1998 - 2007
Taurus LX, SE, SHO 1998 -2006
Explorer 1998 - 2007
Expedition 1999-2006
Excursion 2000-2005
Escape 2001-2006
Focus 2000-2006
Continental 1998 -2002
Crown Victoria 1998 - 2006
Ranger 1999 -2004 V6 2006 All
F150, F250 Light Duty 1999 - 2007
F350 Heavy Duty 2008+
Contour V6 1999 - 2000
Windstar 1999 -2004
Navigator 1999 - 2006
Town Car 1998 - 2006
Mariner 2005 - 2006
Marauder 2003 - 2005
Cougar 1999 - 2002
Grand Marquis 1998 - 2006
LS6, LS8 1999-2006
Milan 2006
Mark VIII 1997 - 1998
Mountaineer 1998 - 2007
Montego 2005 - 2006
Monterey 2004 - 2006
Mystique LS 1999 -2000
Sable 1998 - 2005
T-Bird 2002 - 2005
Fusion 2006+
Freestyle 2005+
Freestar 2004+
GT 2005 - 2006
Five-Hundred 2005+
Zephyr 2006


Key-swapping
The main idea here is to have a key in your pocket that looks just like the key to the car your going to get. I’ve never tried this alone, we always had two or more people with us. You go to the dealer and start looking at the car you want and bullshiting with the sales man, he will get the keys so you can look at it, start it up etc.. We always had one guy talking to the salesman under the hood while the other is inside with the car running, the one on the inside switches his key with the original key while it is running by taking the key tag off the original and putting it on his. Then he can kill the ignition and hand the fake key back to the salesman. This works perfect if it has keyless entry on the keychain, then the salesman will lock it up and you can go look at other cars.
It’s harder to do with no keyless entry or just one key because the salesman will try to lock the doors with the fake key and all hell breaks out.

Now all you need is a key that looks like the original! Google it and find out what it looks like, most keys look the same for the entire brand of that car. Go to the gym and dig through the drawer/wall where everyone leaves their keys to find one. Or some dealers leave keys in the cars in the daytime(idiots) but almost every dealer leaves the keys in the cars that are in the showroom floor. Walking through a car dealership you have so many opportunities to snag a set of keys laying around. Or buy a blank from the parts department and have a locksmith cut it any way he wants. Those are a few ways, if those don’t work and you can’t find a set you’re a dumbass.

There were a few times this didn’t work out, we would come back to get the car and the batteries would be gone, the car was moved inside, or the police were there No big deal, just move on to the next one. But there was one time when we were caught in the act, well sorda.. I wrecked my car and for some reason I thought the guy that hit me(I cut him off) didn’t see my plates so I drove off. Two hours later the police are calling me, I didn’t answer the phone and thought what I should do. I decided to blow off the cops for the day and have a body guy fix it over night, then show the police my car the next day showing it was fine and someone must have stole my plates. The body guy started on it and then realized he wouldn’t be able to do good enough job to pass the police inspection. Next I tried renting an identical car and using its parts on mine for a day, but my car was too new no rental company had one. So I thought I would just steal a car just like mine. I was driving my VW Passat, so we went to a dealership a few hours away and started looking at an identical car to mine. I had my spare key in my pocket ready to swap, swapped them while he was under the hood, killed the engine and locked the car up, then handed him my key. But he wanted to show us how you could stick the key in the door and turn it to roll the windows up and down. Well the key didn’t work and he knew something was up. He said, “this isn’t my key, you have my key give it back” and I told him I didn’t know what he was talking about, we went on for a few minutes until he pulled out his phone and started dialing, then I said I would give it back if he gave me my key back(I needed one key to swap at another dealer) at this point he started yelling for other salesmen and we jumped in our truck as he’s writing down our tags we are haulin’ ass out of there. One car tried to follow us really slick but we noticed and lost them. I was glad we stopped around the corner before going there and put on fake tags. From there we drove to another dealer and got the job done, I was a little shook up but I didn’t want to get charged for that hit and run. Oh by the way, worked perfect, I was a dick and made the cops drive an hour ½ to my house to inspect my car, they did and apologized for the mix up, but gave me a little hell about not noticing my plate missing.

Key-stealing
One day I was so pissed off because I was moving the next day and had just totaled my truck, so I walked in this dealership that had an SRT-10 sitting right up front, and walked around until I found the room where they kept all the keys, looked through all of them until I found that truck key, took it and had someone drop me off there that night. The only reason why I did that was the anger built up inside of me, but we started doing this more and more, it was so easy. Some dealers keep the keys in room by themselves I was really surprised, most are in the managers office, a machine, or the cashiers office.

The best example of this method was when four of us drove 8 hours to get 2 corvettes and couldn’t get either. So on the way home we decided to stop by this other dealership and see what they had. We drove home that night with 3 new cars lol. Eddy test drove a new escalade while the rest of us looked at what else they had. We found 4 other cars we wanted, went into the sales floor and just started talking to the manager, I walked off and went into his office and found 2 sets of keys to the cars we wanted, went to grab them but couldn’t get them off the wall, they locked them to the wall! So I stood there and unscrewed the keys off the key ring, took longer but worked. After Eddy got back from the test drive we all left, I then told him how we got 2 sets of keys and he pulled out the keys to the escalade! The salesman never asked for the keys back, we thought for sure he would have remembered before they left that night. But obviously he never did.
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Old 08-27-2007, 03:15 AM
The Gein Configuration The Gein Configuration is offline
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Is there a easy way to turn off the dome light inside when opening the car door? I know in my truck you can control the light brightness near the instrument cluster.
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Old 08-27-2007, 03:51 AM
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Hammer?
thats the only quick easy way that i know of.
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Old 08-27-2007, 03:55 AM
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Oh yeah i also mean a quiet way too.
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Old 08-27-2007, 04:01 AM
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Cloth over the light then hit it with the hammer shouldn't make to much noise if the cloth is thick.
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Old 07-14-2008, 06:19 AM
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drive a screwdriver in to it
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Old 08-25-2008, 08:07 PM
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pretty much. but dont worry about it it helps more then hurts in most cases. but if you want it to be as quite as possible get in the car close doors. grab your spray paint(black... fuck duh!!) and spray the shit out of it.... and watch out you can get it on some shit in the car.
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Old 09-13-2008, 12:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paininvmuthafuckinass View Post
GTA
Written by paininvmuthafuckinass AKA slim-ov-derby

What this guide will be set up into

What doesn't work
Recommended cars (old)
Recommended cars (new)
Getting into the car (old)
Getting into the car (new)
Starting the car
Bypassing alarms
Some basic things when driving away


What doesn't work
Ok 1st of all just to get the bullshit out of the way I'm going to tell you what doesn't work.

1. Ripping off under the dash cutting wires and crossing them and what not; that's all bullshit that too many people have seen in the movies, so don't do this!
2. The tennis ball with a hole in it and pushing the lock pins up die to pressure does work, but only on old cars and even sometimes then it won't work


Recommended cars (old)
Fords
Ford Escort 1992-1996
Ford Fiesta 1992-1995
Ford Orion any in 1992 or before
Ford Scorpio all of them made in 1989-1995

Vauxhalls
Vauxhall Nova
Vauxhall Astra mk 1 + 3
Vauxhall Carlton (Easiest one of the lot, and is a common pick for thieves)
Vauxhall Cavalier mk1 and 3

Rovers
Rover Metro (easy to steal and the tennis ball definitely works for it, but they are shit)
Austin Maestro

Any convertible (very few have alarms)

The reason these cars are recommended are because these are the easiest and better 1992 car models which don't have an alarm or an immobilizer and it makes your getaway quicker with us not having to deal with alarms and what not


Recommended cars (new)
Peugeot 206- any
Ford Focus- 2002
Mazda 6- 2005
Any convertible (very few have alarms)

The reason why I recommend these cars is because I just do!, and because they have easy alarms to defeat and are quick and suitable


Getting into the car (old)
Tennis ball pressure method
Ok well first of all if your going for any 1980's-1992 car the tennis ball method will work surprisingly, but again not all the time -_-; but I'll still tell you how you do it.
It works on most old cars though because their keyholes stick out like buttons like in the pic below (it has a black box to make the lock stick out):

First get a tennis ball and a screwdriver. Heat the screwdriver head up and burn a hole inside the tennis ball as pictured below but make it so the hole is the same size circumference as the lock:

Now what you do is make sure the hole in the tennis ball is covering the entire lock, and then you push the tennis ball as hard an quick as you can; keep doing this if it doesn't work at first, and the air pressure from inside the tennis ball should force the pins up on the car lock and allow you to open the door.
A tennis ball with a hole cut in it has never and will never work on any automotive lock.

If you understood the actual physics behind wafer tumblers, you'd realize how asinine the entire above portion is. Go do yourself a favor and learn about them and then tell me how it's physically possible.

Quote:
Slim jimming
Slim jimming is most likely your best method for newer cars.
First of all you'll need a slim jim (I suggest actually buying one so it comes with instructions [you'll see why later])
Here's what you're looking for anyway (sizes vary):

If you are a beginner you should ask the manufacturers maintenance and read the manual. You should try to become familiar with the door locking mechanism you are trying to unlock. These mechanisms vary from model year to year and from one manufacturer to another. The control arm may be located to the front or rear of the door lock.

What you do is separate the weather stripping from the window, slide the slim jim in notch end 1st and you should be trying to get the slim jims notch under the bar and then lift up to unlock the car. The bar is most of the time 8 inches under the lock button; so once you
find/feel it, push down slowly and then pull it up fast and it should pop the lock up.

If you can't get a slim jim then you should just get a coat hanger and bend it into the shape in the pic below (well something to that extent anyway) and use that in the same way.
This entire portion first assumes that the vehicle uses a vertical rod for it's locking mechanism.

The only modern car that a Slim Jim seems to work on are the Ford Rangers. Since the 80s, the majority of car manufacturers have shielded their vertical rods with a mesh like material to make binding next to impossible.

Auto manufactuers have also abandoned lazy pawl bell cranks which were the slim jims attack point of choice in favor of fixed pawl bell cranks.

Quote:
Popping the window out
As soon as you read this you may have been thinking "wtf this is fucking ridiculous we're going to get caught"
Well first of all there is no life without risk and this is probably not what you're thinking anway so shut up and read.

1st of all do this on the passenger side because the glass MIGHT shatter, and we don't want glass sticking in our arse while we drive.

What you do is take a screwdriver and put it inside the weather stripping and turn it to the side, or slide it along the quarter glass and it should either crack the window or pop it out. And it's been suggested to have some dowel to lever on.
Destructive entry, smart.

Nothing more suspicious than a car going by with a shattered window and tons of glass on the seats and floorboard.

I seriously hope no one takes anything in this guide seriously.
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Old 09-13-2008, 05:02 AM
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To further elaborate on the topic of car theft, there are literally millions of ways to open a car but all fall within 10 or so methods.

Opening a car is seldom a standard thing. Just like picking a lock or doing anything semi-hacking related, there are multiple ways to accomplish the job. One tool isn't going to work on all cars, like the above author seemed to implicate. To open cars efficiently and properly, however, you need to know these methods in case you are met with a unique situation.

For example, a 1997 Chevrolet Blazer uses a horizontal linkage rod (rod running from the lock to a button on the side of the door) whereas a 2001 Ford F-150 has a vertical linkage rod (rod running from a lock to a button on top of the door). You can see how each linkage rod take it's name (orientation in relation to the ground).

Obviously, you can choose to attack these rods to unlock a vehicle but you can also choose to use an under the window tool which you fit into the door, under the window, and back up through the other side of the door, from there you attempt to manipulate the inside button(s). You can also use a pump or wedge and attempt to snake a long reach tool to do the exact same thing. You can even attempt to pick the locks.

The point I'm trying to make is that there are many, many tools on the market but only a handful of ways to use them. The best method to open cars is to learn these basic methods and then use your imagination when the time comes to unlock a car. I mean, there is no right or wrong way to open a car. You either open it or your don't, but you're not restricted to one way or one method. That's why car opening is often such a joy, it's a puzzle that can be solved many, many ways.

The manuals are there but there's no guarantee you're ever going to have them on you when you need them most. I'm going to try to put together a guide in the next few months in PDF format to show the basic methods and tools as well as how to think on your feet in the field and be able to open a car just by analyzing some basic, elementary characteristics visible on every car.
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Old 10-11-2008, 09:57 PM
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Moderators, please un-sticky this thread. It's full of so much misinformation and lies.
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Old 10-12-2008, 12:21 AM
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I would have to agree with Beyond that most of this information is old and/or incorrect.
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The safest thing would be to learn this stuff yourself, and profit from it. It's not that easy, but it sure cuts out all of these brokers, scammers, CI and LE. I don't sell ids and don't answer PMs asking about shit that has already been discussed in the forums.
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