The 'Official' Novelty ID thread [for ALL novelty questions]

[forbidth3mak3r]

Originally Posted by Kingcone

Does NJ have a Magnetic strip on the back b.c there is not space for one in the template

There is no magnetic strip on NJ licenses.

[Mike70442]

Originally Posted by kristianw

My laminates seem to be too smooth and glossy creating an unrealistic look. Has anyone else had this problem and found a solution?

Spunone69 also has a valid point about the carrier you use. It certainly does make a difference.

Try taking a pencil eraser to it. Pretend to erase the whole thing after you laminate it, front & back. Then rub it on the carpet to get rid of the rubber shavings. It should given it a worn look and the carpet usually puts some fine scratches on it, enough to dull it down. It'll look like it's gone in & out of your wallet 100 times, achieving that duller, more worn look.

[Kingcone]

anybody have any idea if NJ has a magnetic back ?

[forbidth3mak3r]

Originally Posted by Kingcone

Does NJ have a Magnetic strip on the back b.c there is not space for one in the template

Originally Posted by Kingcone

anybody have any idea if NJ has a magnetic back ?

I'll REPEAT myself ya know, cause you might not have read 4 posts above the one you posted. "There is no magnetic strip on NJ Licenses"

[Mr. Blue]

hey how do you get the NJ temp able to edit text an DR # or any feilds in photoshop it stays locked on me i moved it to a new layer an it unlocked but cant edit any thing still nothing ...got it form UFIG ver. 4 please help thanks

[spunone69]

Nice idea about the eraser!! I like it...never thought of that!! Ya see...that's what these "forums" are all about!! SHARING info, ideas, etc...NICE WORK!!

[juice88]

I was looking at the seal of the pics of real NY id's and compared it to the v 5 template and the template seems to have too many colors. Mainly i think its the women's skin, the creases in their dresses and the eagle on the top.

Has anyone edited these yet?

[mkmk]

Originally Posted by orion

Whoa mkmk, Before jumping down my throat. Read my post. Where did I say the NY template was garbage? I said it needs a lot of tweaking before its perfect. I think the template is a EXCELLENT BASE template. It still needs tweaks before its considered perfect IMO. Tweaks are being done right now to it anyways.

Even the v5 release needs some tweaks. The main seal layer is the same from v4. Theyre both accessible in PS. Just changing which seal is visible.

Youre taking what I said the wrong way.

And youre right, I did mention pearl ex might be able to be used for multispectrum. This was when I was literally just starting without a template to my name. And that information was posted on another forum. So I just relayed the message hoping it may help someone. I never tried it out for myself. And also now know its impossible.

Those 4 templates in V5 are NOT perfect either. They are better quality than v3. Thats for sure. But theres a ton missing from the templates still. AGAIN, maybe theyre perfect for opening a mailbox or something small. But they need a lot more work to be able to be called perfect.

Constructive criticism, if you want to mouth off about it go ahead. You should really grow up.

Oh yeah, someone show me some PERFECT holos that come out of the stamp kit. I dont think theyre anywhere close to the other options available. The stamp kit is overhyped.

On the last page you randomly made a post trying to bash on the Version 4 NY template. There was no reason for you to do that. It's not just you, a handful of people seem to randomly bitch about The Guides sometimes because they are ignorant.

The new Version 5 NY temp was released, it's pretty perfect. Perfect fake NY's can be made with the V5 temp. What in the hell does the NY seal have to with anything? Many more hours were spent adjusting the Version 5 NY temp. It wasn't just a simple seal switch. Many fine tuned adjustments and perfect color matching were done to it.

You obviously don't have enough attention to detail. Those 4 templates are actually pretty damn perfect. I DON'T sell IDs myself, but I have talked with people through email who do.

That V5 California template works inside of California it's that good. All people have to do is a good job on the actual ID.

The V5 Florida template will work inside of Florida it's that good. All people need to do is order multi spec holograms from China.

The V5 New York template is so good it will work inside of New York. People need to do a good job on the actual ID for it to work inside NY though.

The V5 Texas template should be good enough to use inside of Texas, everyone should also use the eye drop tool to change the background creme color to fffce5 color.

How can you even say that the temps aren't perfect? For example,the Version 5 Cali temp has a real Cali scan ID layer on it showing that it is lined up and color matched perfect plus people have already used it inside Cali.

Just like somebody gave you a Texas template that has a real Texas scan ID layer showing that it is lined up and color matched perfect (fffce5). I have that template also. YOU should give back and upload it for everyone. I could upload it but I know you are trying to profit from it so I will let you make that decision to upload it.

It just seems like you are trying to bullshit about the quality of the Guide Templates proven by the Cali and Texas comparison example.

As I said, it's obvious you didn't put any effort into stamps. When done correctly, the stamp holograms are no different then holograms made using an Alps printer. Craftsmanship is what really matters.

[mkmk]

Originally Posted by juice88

I was looking at the seal of the pics of real NY id's and compared it to the v 5 template and the template seems to have too many colors. Mainly i think its the women's skin, the creases in their dresses and the eagle on the top.

Has anyone edited these yet?

Jesus Christ guy, you can't compare real New York ID pictures to the Unprinted template on a screen. Print the New York template onto teslin, then laminate the front with crystal laminate from Perf's online art store (follow the NY tutorial).

Then you should compare a Real New York ID to a Fake New York ID in person and you will have an orgasm right there on the spot.

[orion]

Originally Posted by mkmk

On the last page you randomly made a post trying to bash on the Version 4 NY template. There was no reason for you to do that. It's not just you, a handful of people seem to randomly bitch about The Guides sometimes because they are ignorant.

The new Version 5 NY temp was released, it's pretty perfect. Perfect fake NY's can be made with the V5 temp. What in the hell does the NY seal have to with anything? Many more hours were spent adjusting the Version 5 NY temp. It wasn't just a simple seal switch. Many fine tuned adjustments and perfect color matching were done to it.

You obviously don't have enough attention to detail. Those 4 templates are actually pretty damn perfect. I DON'T sell IDs myself, but I have talked with people through email who do.

That V5 California template works inside of California it's that good. All people have to do is a good job on the actual ID.

The V5 Florida template will work inside of Florida it's that good. All people need to do is order multi spec holograms from China.

The V5 New York template is so good it will work inside of New York. People need to do a good job on the actual ID for it to work inside NY though.

The V5 Texas template should be good enough to use inside of Texas, everyone should also use the eye drop tool to change the background creme color to fffce5 color.

How can you even say that the temps aren't perfect? For example,the Version 5 Cali temp has a real Cali scan ID layer on it showing that it is lined up and color matched perfect plus people have already used it inside Cali.

Just like somebody gave you a Texas template that has a real Texas scan ID layer showing that it is lined up and color matched perfect (fffce5). I have that template also. YOU should give back and upload it for everyone. I could upload it but I know you are trying to profit from it so I will let you make that decision to upload it.

It just seems like you are trying to bullshit about the quality of the Guide Templates proven by the Cali and Texas comparison example.

As I said, it's obvious you didn't put any effort into stamps. When done correctly, the stamp holograms are no different then holograms made using an Alps printer. Craftsmanship is what really matters.

I dont believe the stamp can produce the same result as an alps. I want to see proof before I even begin to think that. Its not just me on this one.

Also, I do pay attention to detail. There are quite a few differences in the v5 compared to v4. The seal layer switch was just something I highlighted.

The TX template I have did not come with a real TX scan layer. And it was also color-matched a lot better than the v5. AGAIN, not bashing the guide or anything. Just telling facts.

I dont see how you can look at my post as me bashing the template. It needed tweaks to become perfect. I told people that. Obviously it did since v5 had a lot of differences. So Im agreeing with your work in a way. Stop acting like a girl about this and turning into something its definitely not.

NY v5 temp needs adjustments in Nancy signature, and the complete seal needs to be worked on. the back needs fading on standard. Fading and filling on enhanced. Plus some other things.

TX v5 temp is missing microprint, needs complete color matching, the top bar is too thick. Theres more but Im pointing out EXACTLY what needs to be looked at more thoroughly.

Im done arguing with you about this. Stop taking what I say as a direct attack. And look at it like constructive criticism.

[mkmk]

Originally Posted by orion

I dont believe the stamp can produce the same result as an alps. I want to see proof before I even begin to think that. Its not just me on this one.

Also, I do pay attention to detail. There are quite a few differences in the v5 compared to v4. The seal layer switch was just something I highlighted.

The TX template I have did not come with a real TX scan layer. And it was also color-matched a lot better than the v5. AGAIN, not bashing the guide or anything. Just telling facts.

I dont see how you can look at my post as me bashing the template. It needed tweaks to become perfect. I told people that. Obviously it did since v5 had a lot of differences. So Im agreeing with your work in a way. Stop acting like a girl about this and turning into something its definitely not.

NY v5 temp needs adjustments in Nancy signature, and the complete seal needs to be worked on. the back needs fading on standard. Fading and filling on enhanced. Plus some other things.

TX v5 temp is missing microprint, needs complete color matching, the top bar is too thick. Theres more but Im pointing out EXACTLY what needs to be looked at more thoroughly.

Im done arguing with you about this. Stop taking what I say as a direct attack. And look at it like constructive criticism.

It doesn't matter what you think about the stamp method. It has already been shown that you put zero effort into the stamp method based on the Washington stamps you posted pictures of. The stamp you made was visibly shitty looking. There's no debating it, stamps and alps produce the same quality holograms.

I know exactly what you are talking about, about the Texas template that you have because we have the same TX temp that wasn't released in V5. You avoid the question about uploading it for everyone.

You randomly and for no good reason made a post trying to bad mouth the NY temp. Your post about the NY was pointless considering detailed tutorials have already stated exactly everything that people need to know about the NY templates V4 and V5.

Again you have no idea what you are talking about. The Nancy signature and seal DON'T need working on. When they are printed on teslin and laminated with crystal there is no telling the difference between a real and fake. Something you wouldn't know anything about because you have no experience on it.

You have no idea and no merit on anything NY related. Were not even talking about "enhanced" back. The enhanced was made as a side project while the regular back is the one to be used. You trying to "make up" things that supposedly need to be tweaked is ridiculous.

As I have already said, you can't look at real NY pictures and try to compare it to a Unprinted template on a screen. You have never seen a real NY ID and a fake NY ID compared side by side in person.

Much like your rookie "pearl ex multi spec" post, you are not familiar with the NY fakes or the stamp method. Not knowing things is fine, but don't try and critique things you don't know.

[dudewheresmytardis]

My 2009 NY Guide (simplified)

New York State ID & (Enhanced) Driver's License Guide
2009

The template included with this guide is designed to be worked with as described in this document. The template can be used to print the new Enhanced Driver License, or the more common 2008 version. All enhanced layers are boxed sepparately, when dealing with the front simplt click the enhanced box to visable or not depending on the version you are making.

Materials:
Soft Crystal Laminate (7 mil, sheet style) - Home Page, Laminating pouches, laminator supplies, pouch & roll laminators, lamination film, binding supplies, foamcore & easels
Pearl EX (micropearl, int. silver, int. blue, int. violet)
UV Ink (yellow, blue) - Home Page
Teslin (10 mil, sheet style) - brainstormidsupply.com
Gloss TXP (5-7 mil, sheet style) - http://www.opposite225.com/buySupplies.html

Equipment:
Cannon Inkjet Printer
Inkjet Cartridges filled with UV Ink
Inkjet Cartidges filled with Pearl EX Ink, one for each colour
Digital Camera
Laminator
Lamination Pouch
Die Cutter



Security Features:
Retroreflective film laminated over the front of the document. (simulated by 7 mil Soft Crystal Laminate)
Sin Curve "hologram" with microprinting (simulated with multi layer pearl ex hologram)
Custom image of Niagra falls, sunset and Manhattan skyline
Microprinting; (in template)
"I LOVE NY" Cencentrically across the bottom of the photo
"NEW YORK STATE" across the entire header backround
"NEW YORK STATE" across the bottom of the header
"NEW YORK STATE" radiating from sun in header (13 times)
Bi-colour UV image of state seals on front of document (simulated with UV ink cartridge or screen printing)
UV "NY" repeated across back of document (simulated with UV ink cartridge or screen printing)
Fine line art
Fine line hexagonal pattern across backround in back of document.
1D Barcode
2D Barcode - Using PDFcentre (reccomended settings in BOLD)
- X Dim - 3 - X Dim - 9
- Target Printer DPI - 300 (1200 DPI Temp.) - OR - - Target Printer DPI - 750 (1200 DPI Temp.)
- Columns - 18 - Columns - 20
- Rows - 21 - Rows - 20



Printer Settings: (Cannon Printers)
Print Quality - "High"
Media Type - "Matte photo paper"
Page Settings - Page size "4x6"
Orientation - "Landscape"
Page layout - "Fit to Page"



Construction:
1. Fill out barcode informatio using included software, export image of barcode to photoshop
2. Fill template with all information, photos, and barcodes
3..Print the front template onto the sheet of Teslin at a 1:1 scale, allow time to dry
4. Print the back template onto the sheet of Teslin at a 1:1 scale, allow time to dry
5. Print the UV portions onto the front side of the Teslin, allow time to dry
6. Print the UV portions onto the back side of the Teslin, allow time to dry
7. Screen-print the OV/ hologram portions onto the front side of the Teslin, or the inside of the 7 mil Soft Crystal Laminate allow time to dry.
8. Trim each documet from the sheet leaving a border of 1/4 - 1/2 inch
9. Position the 5-7 mil Glossy TXP over the back of the sheet of Teslin
10. Position the 7 mil Soft Crystal laminate to the frot of the sheet of Teslin
11. Place inside a carrier pouch and run through Lamination machine
10. Place the documet in the Die Cutter, line up and then cut out

Construction Notes:
5. While it's reccomended that you use a proffesional quality UV inkjet cartridge in a sepparate printer and simply print this layer, This portion may also be screen-printed or applied via custom rubber stamp. No matter which method you are using Allow enough time to dry and apply thinly. The template is set up with the UV portions coded to their colour so that you may use a multi-colour set-up with your printer. If you are using a coloured cartridge in the black slot and switching out colours, or screen printing change the colour for each of these layers for solid black. If you are using a rubber stamp, change the line colour to white and fill the backround with solid black.
7. The template shows three layers for the hologram portion, this is merely a representation unless you are using a custom inkjet cartridge filled with coloured pearl EX. (In this case the micropearl+sparkle silver should be loaded into the black slot, the int.silver+micropearl into the blue slot, and the int.blue+sparkle silver into the red slot, while int.violet+micropearl.) You will want to change the transparency of all the lines untill the test peints acchieve the correct effect, usually about 70%-50% opacity in "Blending Options" will do it If you are screen printing you will only make the screen for the black layer. You will then screen print the each colour (following their order in the template bottom to top), each layer of OV should be done extremely lightly, though the interference silver+micropearl should be the most prominent. The sepparate layers allow for a very slight shift. This is best effected if you add a touch of micropearl to half of the colours and sparkle silver to the other half. If using a Rubber stamp the same applies, use only the black line, however invert it to white and fill the background with black so you can make your stamp, then apply each colour sepparately layering them the same


Thanks to MKMK for the cannon printer settings, and PDF centre settings from his Ultimate Guide v5

[dudewheresmytardis]

suspend it in a clear aqueous ink base and then load it up. It's essentially the same as making uv pigment powder into an ink and loading them into your cartridge. It's best to use a cheap HP fo this as they are easier to refill. This will work with pearl ex, however they make interference embossing powders that are just as fine or finer that will melt at a high temperature. If you can find these (I can get them from around pearl paints here in NYC) they are far superior for making inkjet cartridges as you can heat your inkbase untill the powder melts and blends into a uniform solution, then allow to cool, filter and load into a cartridge. The powder I'm speaking of is called embossing powder at most art stores and comes in larger jars that make you think jaquard is selling samples.

[Mr. Blue]

how do you get the NJ temp able to edit text an DR # or any feilds in photoshop it stays locked on me i moved it to a new layer an it unlocked but cant edit any thing still nothing ...got it form UFIG ver. 4 please help thanks

[tree.bread]

Originally Posted by dudewheresmytardis

suspend it in a clear aqueous ink base and then load it up. It's essentially the same as making uv pigment powder into an ink and loading them into your cartridge. It's best to use a cheap HP fo this as they are easier to refill. This will work with pearl ex, however they make interference embossing powders that are just as fine or finer that will melt at a high temperature. If you can find these (I can get them from around pearl paints here in NYC) they are far superior for making inkjet cartridges as you can heat your inkbase untill the powder melts and blends into a uniform solution, then allow to cool, filter and load into a cartridge. The powder I'm speaking of is called embossing powder at most art stores and comes in larger jars that make you think jaquard is selling samples.

"suspend it in a clear aqueous ink base" does Speed Ball Transparent Base fall into this category. I ask because no where on the damn label does it say anything useful. Its texture is gooey, and not water like at all, although it is a liquid......Or is an ink base a totally different type of base? Is it readily supplied at art stores or is it an online deal?

Also could you please go into more detail about putting the perl ex/ embossing powder into an ink cartridge?
Are you saying you mix the aqueous base with the powder, then heat it up so the powder dissolves in the solution of base? Are you doing this over a stove? What do mean by "filter" when you say "filter and load".
And I assume the HP cartridges you suggest are the HP 51645A (HP 45)

Also, I know people have been having a hard time printing green UV ink as the pigment seems to clog the print head. Would heating the base and ink as you do with the embossing powders help dissolve the pigments???

Originally Posted by Mr. Blue

how do you get the NJ temp able to edit text an DR # or any feilds in photoshop it stays locked on me i moved it to a new layer an it unlocked but cant edit any thing still nothing ...got it form UFIG ver. 4 please help thanks

You must unlock the layers. Highlight all the locked layers go to the Layer tab and click Lock Layers. Then uncheck the All box.

[J10New21]

I dont remember where I read it, but for Magnetic stripes...I heard that most places can only read the first 2 tracks. So would getting a writer that writes only 2 tracks be fine?

[spunone69]

That is 100% correct!! The only places that read the third (and some states, fourth) track are DMV and Highway patrol. A two track is just fine for ID's...most of the clubs that actually "swipe" your ID to verify it are only reading the first track with your name and DOB...

[J10New21]

Thanks! I thought I read that somewhere. And as for everyone saying to get a MSR206. why is that? Is it supposedly better or soemthing? or required? I found a cheap one on ebay that writes 2 tracks: hxxp://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280417803152&ssPageNam e=STRK:MEWAX:IT
Should this work fine?

[dudewheresmytardis]

I preffer to use a beaker filled with whatever transparent fluid will sollute with the pigment or dye I am using. I gradually superheat this clean liquid, adding pigment to it untill it is at a safe superheated temperature with as much pigment as it can take (or as much is necessary) then I gradually lower the heat (keeping it from actually boiling... esp with flamable bases) Most standard inkjet printers use an aqueous or water based ink, you can water this down with distilled water to no real adverse effects, and it's pure so it will superheat allowing it to "carry" more pigment per volume. In this case the pigment is either Transparent UV powder, or some sort of interference colour. These powders are made up of granules that are either water or dye based, they make interference colours (red, gold, green, blue, violet, and silver) in both. If you find water based all the easier, find either transparent printer fluid (often specialty print shops can order this for you) or distilled water. Heat it up and add pigment of you're prefference. You can make transparent inkjet fluid by taking vial of yellow ink and attaching it to a centrefuge.. kinda involved I know but with filtering you can get it crystal clear and it's almost as great to use as the industry stuff. If you use a dye based ink your printer is probably advanced and basically you're going to have to tinker with viscosity a LOT just to get something your printer will accept at all. Also, Speedball transparent medium will work in a printer if you water it down. I've had good results in the past from printing with a cart filled up with just this, printed out my sheet, dusted with pearlex loaded in an atomiser, allowed to dry, then blew off the excess with air duster. Then again I have had fantastic results with an airbrush and hires photoez which is imo the best thing next to alps.

one more thing. you can replicate alps with a fargo (or simillar) ID card printer, you just gotta find your way around the rollers, but the clear (K) roll/section of ribbon do the same thing.

[Kingcone]

Can you use water as a base for perl ex or do you have to buy an extender base.

[groundzero_1]

Originally Posted by J10New21

Thanks! I thought I read that somewhere. And as for everyone saying to get a MSR206. why is that? Is it supposedly better or soemthing? or required? I found a cheap one on ebay that writes 2 tracks: hxxp://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280417803152&ssPageNam e=STRK:MEWAX:IT
Should this work fine?

That only reads/writes 1 & 2 where as many of the cards I've seen have info on tracks 1 & 3 and leave 2 blank.

Also, that looks like a cheap chinese knock-off that will last for only 100 swipes and then error for no apparent reason and you will throw it against your wall and shatter it, revealing that inside there was little more than 2 10 gauge wires connected to a badly hot glued circuit board. Trust me, it's happened before.

The msr206 (or better yet the 406) is a time-tested, well built, long lasting machine that will last for thousands of swipes and is very reliable.

Some people have had success with their knock-offs though so if you would like to try that route then go ahead.

[spunone69]

Ha ha ha...Hey groundzero, you sound a lot like ME!! I love to throw cheap electronics against the wall when they stop "cooperating" with me!! Yeah the 206 is probably one of the best for the money...how are the 406's?? Haven't even seen them yet...Which states don't use track 2?? I know that Cali uses 4 (yes, I said four) but the fourth is only readable by DMV...

[groundzero_1]

Originally Posted by spunone69

Ha ha ha...Hey groundzero, you sound a lot like ME!! I love to throw cheap electronics against the wall when they stop "cooperating" with me!! Yeah the 206 is probably one of the best for the money...how are the 406's?? Haven't even seen them yet...Which states don't use track 2?? I know that Cali uses 4 (yes, I said four) but the fourth is only readable by DMV...

Yea there has been a lot of commotion about track 4, but it is unneeded when creating novelty ids because only the DMV and police use it (if you are presenting your fake id to the DMV or police, you are retarded). The 406 is a bit bulkier than the 206, I'm not sure why, whether it be for space for better parts or to just make it more durable, but it is kind of annoying to lug around. The 206 is still more than perfect for any magstripe job.

By the way, the 406 looks like a cheap plastic over-sized ripoff but I know it's not because I got it direct from the manufacturer of the 206 and am happy with its speedy performance.

[juice88]

OK, I started out making id's with a different set of materials than what is recommended on the tutorial.

Is it possible to make the NY holos and UV with EZScreenprint hi-res screens?

[J10New21]

Thanks for the helps guys...I am gonna go with the cheap 'knockoff' just to get started and then later on Ill probably end up getting a 206. But one last question, the cheap one should still work the same for atleast 100 swipes? lol As in I can use it with the Jerm software?

[tree.bread]

Originally Posted by dudewheresmytardis

I preffer to use a beaker filled with whatever transparent fluid will sollute with the pigment or dye I am using. I gradually superheat this clean liquid, adding pigment to it untill it is at a safe superheated temperature with as much pigment as it can take (or as much is necessary) then I gradually lower the heat (keeping it from actually boiling... esp with flamable bases) Most standard inkjet printers use an aqueous or water based ink, you can water this down with distilled water to no real adverse effects, and it's pure so it will superheat allowing it to "carry" more pigment per volume. In this case the pigment is either Transparent UV powder, or some sort of interference colour. These powders are made up of granules that are either water or dye based, they make interference colours (red, gold, green, blue, violet, and silver) in both. If you find water based all the easier, find either transparent printer fluid (often specialty print shops can order this for you) or distilled water. Heat it up and add pigment of you're prefference. You can make transparent inkjet fluid by taking vial of yellow ink and attaching it to a centrefuge.. kinda involved I know but with filtering you can get it crystal clear and it's almost as great to use as the industry stuff. If you use a dye based ink your printer is probably advanced and basically you're going to have to tinker with viscosity a LOT just to get something your printer will accept at all. Also, Speedball transparent medium will work in a printer if you water it down. I've had good results in the past from printing with a cart filled up with just this, printed out my sheet, dusted with pearlex loaded in an atomiser, allowed to dry, then blew off the excess with air duster. Then again I have had fantastic results with an airbrush and hires photoez which is imo the best thing next to alps.

one more thing. you can replicate alps with a fargo (or simillar) ID card printer, you just gotta find your way around the rollers, but the clear (K) roll/section of ribbon do the same thing.

Damn. Thats some intense business. Thanks though this sounds very useful. Especially the bit about the yellow ink and the centrifuge, although I don't happen to have one of those laying around right now...
I'd like to try that supersaturating technique but acquiring the ink base seems like a drag.
I think I'll try loading a cart with watered down speedball, or maybe even try supersaturating the speedball solution with the perl ex.......
Can I ask what printer you used? I figure some old piece like the ones that take the HP 45 cart?
Thanks again

[AHyde]

Anyone made a really good Alabama temp?

[richierichtx]

No states that use 2d barcodes encrypt them do they?
I believe the new texas does encrypt theirs. They follow all the ANSI standards.. up untile the point where the info is supposed to be shown on the 2d barcode, but its just a bunch a jibberish when I scan it.


Like it says
"ANSI 636015
03
00
02
DL
0041
0222"
which is exactly how ANSI says it should be up until this point, but after that...

"\+ahdf;adflkj 321:#:4 234# 310agghdlsd" ... is what it looks like. So I have concluded that it is encrypted, which I do not know much about encryptions.

Anyone have any idea of how to decrypt it?

[anonymousman]

compliments of mr slave thought u might like or be able to use this check it out in pdf form so u all can use hopefully it ends up in V6


Free File Hosting Made Simple - MediaFire



Enjoy compliments of Mr Slave glad i have such a unique friend

[mkmk]

Originally Posted by anonymousman

compliments of mr slave thought u might like or be able to use this check it out in pdf form so u all can use hopefully it ends up in V6


Free File Hosting Made Simple - MediaFire



Enjoy compliments of Mr Slave glad i have such a unique friend

Did you copy the business card strategy out of Version 5 and simply convert it to PDF or did you add more detail to the strategy like an update?

You need to upload the file to a different file host site, it says you have the file set to private and nobody can download it...