The 'Official' Novelty ID thread [for ALL novelty questions] - Page 14

caliid2006 · #**391** (**permalink**) 10-06-2007, 12:48 AM

You dont need water for anything.... keep tryin stuff you'll figure out the method eventually.

NJ holo is rainbow, your not going to be able to fake that unless you really know what you are doing.

cuttingedge · #**392** (**permalink**) 10-06-2007, 01:49 AM

..........

caliid2006 · #**393** (**permalink**) 10-06-2007, 04:10 AM

I wouldnt, I'd be using the thermal transfer method.
Just keep at it, trying new things makes someone learn a whole lot in the process. I think you guys will figure it out, just keep tryin. Youve got the basic idea-- pearl ex sticks to printer ink on a transparency.
Once you guys have exhausted all efforts ill let you in on the secret, but i think youll get it on your own.

M4L · #**394** (**permalink**) 10-06-2007, 05:44 AM

Caliid you have any info on makeing a scanable california

DFlight · #**395** (**permalink**) 10-07-2007, 07:52 AM

- post deleted -

blackice7 · #**396** (**permalink**) 10-07-2007, 09:31 AM

Ok... I have used a make up type brush, one thats really fluffy, and tried dusting it off after letting it dry for like 10 mins and it came out pretty good, but there was some stuff that wouldnt come off.

One question I have though is when laminating it to the pouch, does this affect the adhesiveness when u laminate it to teslin?

caliid2006 · #**397** (**permalink**) 10-07-2007, 04:50 PM

You guys need to read the forum, asking questions that are already answered.

alphaprojectt · #**398** (**permalink**) 10-07-2007, 05:35 PM

DFlight,

I agree with Calii, please read the actually forums before posting. I went through all 19 pages in order to make sure I wouldn't ask a question that was already answered. In addition to keeping the forum less cluttered, it also eliminates the repeat nature of certain questions.

Blackice,

I don't believe it effects the adhessivness of when laminating it to the teslin, but I could be wrong. I didn't have the oppertunity to run the tests I wanted this weekend, but hopefully I'll be able to, this week. I'll keep you updated on the progress. Additionally, I'd say let it dry a little while longer, or the next thing I might try is concentrated air.

middletown · #**399** (**permalink**) 10-07-2007, 07:49 PM

Would it be worth it buying a used fargo dtc-515. What would be a good PVC printer?

Squall333 · #**400** (**permalink**) 10-08-2007, 12:55 AM

Db you said you got some holos made. Can you get any nj's if not theres gotta be a way to fake it.

infested352 · #**401** (**permalink**) 10-08-2007, 05:09 AM

I'll give you one way that you could get the excess pearlex off.......
Turn your laminator on and let it heat for a few min(not hot just a little warm) then cover the holo your making with a laminate i would suggest using cheap ones (like a shitty 25 pack you stole from office depot.... well thats what i do because i have no money)... anyways once you have laminate over the holo just run it through your warm NOT HOT laminator then peel it off and most of the pearlex will be gone..... don't limit yourself to just this though try other things discover something new there are many things you could do like this, this should just open your eyes to some more options

infested352 · #**402** (**permalink**) 10-08-2007, 05:10 AM

Also for anyone making texas or at least trying to.... for the uv its easier to do a thermal transfer with UV ink instead of black and just pearlex instead of pigments

blackice7 · #**403** (**permalink**) 10-08-2007, 06:29 AM

wouldnt that take off some/most of the pearlex stuck to the ink?

driftwood · #**404** (**permalink**) 10-08-2007, 05:35 PM

Hey guys...informative post so far!

I've been working on novelty IDs near an Ohio campus for a little while. I created an Ohio template from scratch and it is nearly perfect when compared to the official document. However, I have no experience with holograms and the Ohio hologram appears very difficult to reproduce. Multispec and different images at different angles.

Recently I started experimenting with Pearl-Ex and Photo-EZ with minimal success. I am willing to put the time and effort into learning how to do holograms but I would like some pointers to get me started. Are passable multispec holos even possible using this method?

Since the P-EX/P-EZ method doesn't seem to be the preferred method on this board, I wouldn't mind trying different methods as well. Cali, could you let me in on the thermal transfer method? Which method would you guys suggest if attempting the Ohio holo?

I would like to be able to do other states and will trade my template and any information you want about the real thing for any other state. In particular I am looking for the states surrounding Ohio (IN, MI, PA, WV, KY) but I'll try any state. Let me know guys, I'm the only one of my roommates over 21 and going to the bars w/o them just isn't as fun.

infested352 · #**405** (**permalink**) 10-08-2007, 09:52 PM

@ black ice
It takes off a little if you do it at a low temp but if you do it too hot it will take it all off
@ driftwood
If its a 3d multispec(i've never seen a ohio id but thats what it sounds like to me)..... there isn't really a known way to fake it yet

smokingfretboard · #**406** (**permalink**) 10-09-2007, 06:14 AM

Ok i'm a newbie, but I have read this whole thread and I've never found better info elsewhere! This site alone has kept me from making expensive mistakes

One question for the thermal method that I don't think anyone has asked, is can you do the thermal method on an inkjet printer? Or are you confined to a laserjet or PVC printer? I had a hard time making the ink stick to a transparency with my injet and I don't know if I was at fault, or if I had the wrong equipment. I would like to keep using my inkjet if possible because since I'm new at this I'm not able to invest a ton of money into it yet

blackice7 · #**407** (**permalink**) 10-09-2007, 07:55 PM

Hey alpha any success using the compressed air?

infested352 · #**408** (**permalink**) 10-09-2007, 09:13 PM

I'm pretty sure the thermal method only works with a inkjet? i've only tried with inkjets......

smokingfretboard · #**409** (**permalink**) 10-09-2007, 10:38 PM

Well that's good to hear! At least it worked for infested, so I know now that I'm the one at fault. Do you print onto a standard transparency? Or is there another printable see thru material that I'm unaware of?

phoroh · #**410** (**permalink**) 10-09-2007, 11:34 PM

I've PMed a few of you with questions, but in light of more recent discussion, I would like to throw out what I've been able to collect so far in hopes that the summary will help clear up any miscommunication (including my own). Please correct me if I'm wrong.

Thermal Transfer Method involves:
-printing desired graphic onto a transparency using an inkjet printer
-applying Pearl-Ex directly to the wet ink
-removing the excess Pearl-Ex <- This step appears to be giving everyone the most trouble
---Potential solutions:
------Rinsing transparency with water after allowing ink to dry for 10/30 min
------Brushing excess off with a fine make-up brush
------Blowing excess off with compressed air
------Laminating the transparency with laminator (while not "warmed up") and peeling off the lamination

------Has anyone thought to try patting the surface with putty/claybar?

Beyond this, I can only guess how the process continues. My best guess based on the discussion is that the transparency, once clear of excess Pearl-Ex, is cut out, placed on the card medium, and then a laminating pouch is laminated overtop of the card/transparency combination. This would explain why ink color is a concern, why excess Pearl-Ex is detrimental, and why "thermal" is in the process title. This however, would also make the process incompatible with PVC cardstock (if you intend to stay within desired thickness tolerances).

Are my assumptions correct? Is there an alternative method to transfer (much like a fake tattoo) the dried pearl-ex from the transparency directly onto the paper/card or the adhesive underside of a "peel-and-stick" style laminate sheet?

caliid2006 · #**411** (**permalink**) 10-10-2007, 12:38 AM

Good work guys. The ink should not be a concern. Use VERY light ink, and do an ink color that is close to the pearl ex color (for instance, do very light yellow for gold pearl ex). If you do it right the ink should not show at all.

This does not work for security laminates like TXP because they can only be laminated once- so after the pearl ex is transfered to the TXP, the TXP is no longer good.
For security laminates you can do a "cold transfer".

You can also do this with PVC, infact it works very well. To "cold transfer" the pearl ex to the PVC, coat the card LIGHTLY with adhesive, and press the transparency down on that. Remove it and put on the overlam. Practice makes perfect.

blackice7 · #**412** (**permalink**) 10-10-2007, 01:37 AM

hey cali... are we on the right track here with getting the stuff off or is should we still be concerned with getting some other method?
?
edit: cali for the ink how light is very light? like set opacity to like 30%, or is that too low/high?

infested352 · #**413** (**permalink**) 10-10-2007, 02:20 AM

lol @ smokingfretboard...
I wasn't letting you guys know i figured it out i was giving you a tip i've been using the thermal transfer method for about a year(just didn't know it was called that kinda just figured it out on my own one day while i was fucked up)

There is many ways to remove the ink but i agree with cali letting you guys experiment will help develop new things..... my advice if your just trying to get it to work experiment with using other laminates like what i said earlier

And if you guys were wondering i've made holos that look as good as the ones cali posted in the community pics section removing the excess pearlex the way i said earlier

smokingfretboard · #**414** (**permalink**) 10-10-2007, 04:21 AM

Ok i just tried a new method of getting the excess pearlex off that worked great! Take Play-doh and press it onto the transparency and then gently pull it off. I liked it alot cause you can vary how much you want to pull of by how much pressure you use and it takes a couple tries but it looks great!

phoroh · #**415** (**permalink**) 10-10-2007, 06:25 AM

caliid2006: I imagine hairspray will work suitably as an "adhesive?" Any better alternatives?

smokingfretboard: Good to see the putty/claybar idea works well.

caliid2006 · #**416** (**permalink**) 10-10-2007, 04:18 PM

It might, but i just use regular spray adhesive that you get at the hardware or art store.

VeriZon · #**417** (**permalink**) 10-11-2007, 01:37 AM

can anyone help me with the UV and/or holograms for the PA licenses. I have the holo temp but am not sure of the best method for it. What color is the UV? this would be great to know.

smokingfretboard · #**418** (**permalink**) 10-11-2007, 04:59 AM

Ok so after purchasing 3 shipments of ez photo, and spending countless hours trying to get the technique right and trying to get the pearlex to stick and only coming out with a hologram that looked halfway passable to a store clerk; I am now producing holograms that could give me the confidence to show to a strict bouncer, and I've worked at it less than 2 hours in two days! That thermal transfer method is the jit! Cai and infested, it's too bad you can't copywrite somthing that's illegal

cause you guys would make a kill, lol! Much appreciation and respect

middletown · #**419** (**permalink**) 10-11-2007, 04:35 PM

Verizon, as of now, there is no solid way. As discussed before you need to order them from a crooked hologram producer in Asia.

VeriZon · #**420** (**permalink**) 10-11-2007, 05:30 PM

unless anyone knows of any crooked venders, i guess we'll be investigating ourselves. Before we use to just lift authentic holo overlays and solvent wash them, but now im looking into making them. the layout is simple enough that a stamp can be easily made. how does the diffusion film work? does it require hot embossing or what?
also, the pa barcode uses 11(well set at 13) columns, does anyone know the number of rows and error correction level to set it at?