08-24-2008, 09:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caliid2006  I think you are thinking of "synergy" rather so much than game theory, but I think thats a pretty cool idea.
Risk reactor inks don't work well with refillable or continuous ink carts. They will clog the print head and just piss you off. In the past I have gotten them to work briefly, and then clog the head after a few prints. What you can do is use their dyes, and use the correct solvents etc. to make your own ink, but this is probably very difficult and complex.
Fake-proof inks fade real, real fast, and are not bright to begin with. Thats why they are so cheap. But maybe you could double or triple layer them? Just a thought. | I know you got your ink from a source that got shut down but now a days what would you suggest in regards to UV inks? Or if you could give us any suggestions...
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08-24-2008, 05:27 PM
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Like i said, your guess is as good as mine. I tried many different UV inks and none ever worked. I had a company manufacture cartridges for me. So I'm not the one to talk to about this.
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08-24-2008, 07:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caliid2006 I think you are thinking of "synergy" rather so much than game theory, but I think thats a pretty cool idea.
Risk reactor inks don't work well with refillable or continuous ink carts. They will clog the print head and just piss you off. In the past I have gotten them to work briefly, and then clog the head after a few prints. What you can do is use their dyes, and use the correct solvents etc. to make your own ink, but this is probably very difficult and complex.
Fake-proof inks fade real, real fast, and are not bright to begin with. Thats why they are so cheap. But maybe you could double or triple layer them? Just a thought. | I've never heard of "synergy", but I'm sure its game theory I'm thinking of. I read a book about the play of game theory in the development of civilizations. Yeah, I just dont know if the idea will really catch on. possibly we could just do a collection of rapidshare links. |  |
08-24-2008, 08:47 PM
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I'm new to the thread but let me say you guys are kicking ass with this stuff. I have used a method to simulate UV that some might want to try. You use a ink catridge refill kit and mix the refill ink with a little bit of UV ink from LDP NET. I have used it on Teslin and it works pretty good. The only down side is..you will not be able to use the printer for anything else. |
08-24-2008, 09:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AmericanPie I'm new to the thread but let me say you guys are kicking ass with this stuff. I have used a method to simulate UV that some might want to try. You use a ink catridge refill kit and mix the refill ink with a little bit of UV ink from LDP NET. I have used it on Teslin and it works pretty good. The only down side is..you will not be able to use the printer for anything else. | How long before the image starts becoming faint? Give us more details on what you did, like printer used, and how you refilled and whatnot.
And did you buy the organic inks or sunlight stable inks?
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Last edited by purplecheeser; 08-24-2008 at 09:22 PM.
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08-24-2008, 11:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by purplecheeser How long before the image starts becoming faint? Give us more details on what you did, like printer used, and how you refilled and whatnot.
And did you buy the organic inks or sunlight stable inks? | I used sunlight stable. The images have maintained themselves with little fade for a year now. I used a G&G Ink Refill Kit and a Brother MFC-240C printer bc I got it for free. The refill is simple, as long as you follow the directions that come with the kit. I would suggest that you use 1 part UV ink to 5 parts regular ink used. Also, I highly recommend the UV products from Max Max. I used it on a us green card and it worked great. | | | |
08-24-2008, 11:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AmericanPie I used sunlight stable. The images have maintained themselves with little fade for a year now. I used a G&G Ink Refill Kit and a Brother MFC-240C printer bc I got it for free. The refill is simple, as long as you follow the directions that come with the kit. I would suggest that you use 1 part UV ink to 5 parts regular ink used. Also, I highly recommend the UV products from Max Max. I used it on a us green card and it worked great. | Ohh you mixed it with regular ink? Well im trying to print the UV flags on the CA license. can i mix the UV ink with like alcohol?
Also is the UV image vibrant like that ones on ID's? Cause i was reading that the sunlight stable isn't as vibrant as the Organic inks. But the organic ink faded in a week in direct sunlight, but the ID is going to be in the wallet so I don't know what would happen.
So a year huh? I might have to invest in these inks
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08-24-2008, 11:23 PM
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I sited game theory about 200 times in my masters thesis and taught it for 3 semesters... Your reading probably sited synergy and thats what your thinking of. But thats besides the point, I like your idea.
And I have heard that maxmax inks are very very high quality, so good pointing that out.
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08-25-2008, 01:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caliid2006 I sited game theory about 200 times in my masters thesis and taught it for 3 semesters... Your reading probably sited synergy and thats what your thinking of. But thats besides the point, I like your idea.
And I have heard that maxmax inks are very very high quality, so good pointing that out. | Are non-zero-sum games present in synergy? I don't mean to kinda discuss other things in this forum, but I find an interest in such topics. I just supposed it was game because I thought non-zero and zero sum games are terminology only used in the game theory. like... " [cultural evolution] points towards larger quantities of non-zero-sumness. As history progresses, human beings find themselves playing non-zero-sum games with more and more human beings. Interdependence expands, and social complexity grows in scope and depth."
I'm not questioning you, I'm just interested what your take is.
Yeah I think to get this idea off the ground I'm gonna need to start some kinda site or something. Do you think that it is possible just to start a thread and put links on it to kinda start the thread and hope others follow? The other problem is, lol, I have only one template, so it's not like I'm a horde of information.  | |
08-25-2008, 02:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by purplecheeser Ohh you mixed it with regular ink? Well im trying to print the UV flags on the CA license. can i mix the UV ink with like alcohol?
Also is the UV image vibrant like that ones on ID's? Cause i was reading that the sunlight stable isn't as vibrant as the Organic inks. But the organic ink faded in a week in direct sunlight, but the ID is going to be in the wallet so I don't know what would happen.
So a year huh? I might have to invest in these inks | Yeah..I have mixed it with regular ink so it allows me to print light colors with UV properties. Good thought about trying to mix it with alcohol. I am going to test it out first and let you know.
The UV image is only slightly less vibrant than the ones on IDs. You should be fine if you are using organic or sunlight stable. |
08-25-2008, 02:29 AM
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thanks for that info american, that helped a lot  |
08-25-2008, 02:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AmericanPie Yeah..I have mixed it with regular ink so it allows me to print light colors with UV properties. Good thought about trying to mix it with alcohol. I am going to test it out first and let you know.
The UV image is only slightly less vibrant than the ones on IDs. You should be fine if you are using organic or sunlight stable. |
Yea cause the organic is 15$/ounce and sunlight stable is 85$/ounce. You use shortwave sunlight stable right?
Does anyone know what UV wavelength is normally used by clubs,bars, ext. ?
@caliid2006
What carrier do you use for your TXP?
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Last edited by purplecheeser; 08-25-2008 at 03:39 AM.
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08-25-2008, 05:57 AM
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You can read my thesis if you would like (it is boring as all shit) but yeah I think this discussion belongs somewhere else.
I got a bunch of carriers from the company I bought the TXP from, and it gives it the right "texture". I also grabbed some from Kinko's do it yourself laminating station and those work pretty well too.
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08-25-2008, 06:04 AM
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alright Ill pick some up from kinko's. I almost wanted to get 2 very very thing sheets of glass and use that as a carrier, but I dont know, maybe its stupid. But its almost impossible to find magstrips solely by themselves without going through china
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08-25-2008, 11:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by purplecheeser Yea cause the organic is 15$/ounce and sunlight stable is 85$/ounce. You use shortwave sunlight stable right?
Does anyone know what UV wavelength is normally used by clubs,bars, ext. ?
@caliid2006
What carrier do you use for your TXP? | Most of the clubs, bars, etc. are using a wavelength of 375 nm. |
08-25-2008, 12:02 PM
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Anyone know of another discussion taking place on Totse? Worth joining into the discussion? |
08-25-2008, 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by AmericanPie Anyone know of another discussion taking place on Totse? Worth joining into the discussion? | yea me and bzljames started that discussion to see if there are any experience ID makers on totse. But nothing so far. Plus im kinda sketched out by that forum, its heavily watched
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08-25-2008, 06:09 PM
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Does anyone know the Font on the Texas Holo?
Also I plan on using 10 mil Artisyn or Teslin Inkjet (using a Pixma MP 600)
- guessin either will work properly
Going to purchase a Die cutter so I can't use butterfly pouches correct? At least If I plan on using the Die Cutter? So I'm guessing I need a full 7mil gloss sheet for the front and a 7mil gloss sheet with mag strips for the back. Cut to a rough size. Layer (gloss, holo onto teslin, gloss w/ mag) then laminate. Then Die Cut. |
08-25-2008, 08:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sain Does anyone know the Font on the Texas Holo?
Also I plan on using 10 mil Artisyn or Teslin Inkjet (using a Pixma MP 600)
- guessin either will work properly
Going to purchase a Die cutter so I can't use butterfly pouches correct? At least If I plan on using the Die Cutter? So I'm guessing I need a full 7mil gloss sheet for the front and a 7mil gloss sheet with mag strips for the back. Cut to a rough size. Layer (gloss, holo onto teslin, gloss w/ mag) then laminate. Then Die Cut. | texas is the easiest hologram. Just type texas and space it out properly. And yea use full sheet laminates not butterfly pouches when using a die cutter
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08-25-2008, 09:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by purplecheeser texas is the easiest hologram. Just type texas and space it out properly. And yea use full sheet laminates not butterfly pouches when using a die cutter | Do you happen to know the font? |
08-25-2008, 11:43 PM
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If anyone has the old New York template at hand by any chance, please pm me asap, I might have something that you need. |
08-26-2008, 01:17 AM
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for all fonts, go to "whatthefont.com" or something like that, just google it. upload a scan of the "texas" wording and it will give you a list of fonts that match. you might end up paying25 bucks for the actual font once you find out what it's called, unless its free on the net somewhere.
For uv inks, there are local ink stores that will fill any cartridges with pigmented inks, magnetic inks, or whatever. Of course you need to be cool with the guy but ink stores have people who are capable of refilling epson cartridges, which is almost impossible to do, or most any other cartidges. They can also test the inks you give them to make sure that the viscosity is right and it will flow smoothly through the print heads. I have done this before so I know its possible. Just suggesting it to others, like purple cheeser. |
08-26-2008, 01:59 AM
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what was this store called Kmaster? |
08-26-2008, 02:12 AM
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I think this has been discussed but can anyone confirm 100% that the MSR505C will work with TheJerm encoder software. It is a genuine MSR product and it says that it is "MSR206 Compatible"
thanks |
08-26-2008, 03:05 AM
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Originally Posted by declined I think this has been discussed but can anyone confirm 100% that the MSR505C will work with TheJerm encoder software. It is a genuine MSR product and it says that it is "MSR206 Compatible"
thanks |
Shit it better becuase i spend 350 on a msr505c today. However their is a BNIB MSR206 or ebay right now at 200 with like 5 hours left so its possible that you might score it at a cheap price.
But yea ill do that kmaster. Was is a mom and pop store or a branch like staples or office depot?
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08-26-2008, 06:00 AM
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@ American
Do you refill only black cartidges with UV ink? Or how does that work
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08-26-2008, 06:54 AM
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purple let me know when you get the MSR505C and tell me if it works with TheJerm software, I am anxious to get one but I want to make sure that it works before I drop the cash. |
08-26-2008, 08:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by declined purple let me know when you get the MSR505C and tell me if it works with TheJerm software, I am anxious to get one but I want to make sure that it works before I drop the cash. | Im pretty sure it will be compatible with thejerm MSR206 Utility. Ive read on a few other forums so it should be cool. Alot better than spending an extra 300$ on a msr206, thats for sure. Im just working on getting 10mil TXP at the moment, inquired about it on a few websites to see if they could special order a roll or try and pull some strings
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08-26-2008, 12:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by purplecheeser @ American
Do you refill only black cartidges with UV ink? Or how does that work | No..I do both depending on what I'm doing. If you refill the color and then print to your document in the lightest yellow it will do..it looks like the UV ink printed on a normal id and is UV light reactive. |
08-26-2008, 09:57 PM
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I had a question, What would someone use 10mil TXP for if it wasnt for an ID card? Im able to get this but I have to let the supervisor know what its going to be used for. I told him i professor at some university, any ideas?
Any does anyone have experience with Perfs UV ink carts? He's still selling them for about 40-60$ per cart.
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Last edited by purplecheeser; 08-27-2008 at 12:21 AM.
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