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  #1771 (permalink)  
Old 10-10-2008, 08:15 PM
declined declined is offline
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set your standards a little higher, in photoshop if you create a document that is the same width and height and have two separate images on two separate layers and turn on one at a time and print one on the front then turn the sheet around and print on the other side with the other layer turned on it will be lined up exactly when you cut it out and laminate it.
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  #1772 (permalink)  
Old 10-11-2008, 01:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caliid2006 View Post
Biz... I'm always interested in a multispec discussion... and I do know a lot.

Declined- stamping UV is hard as all hell. There is no powder or ink that works well for it (as far as I have found). The only way I have ever been able to do a clean UV image is to print it. When you stamp it, the ink comes off uneven, or makes the stamp stick to the artisyn. Try to stamp powder it won't stick to the artisyn. Use a little adhesive and it will come off uneven and blotchy. If you press on and figure out a way then awesome. I tried a lot and could never do it.

And responding to an earlier post NJ is not Teslin or PVC, it is a mylar composite, same as Florida. More and more licenses will be showing up like this, and it takes a little bit of a new approach to forging.
Everyone says the way to do the Texas UV is to mix UV powder and pearl-ex and just stamp it on. Are you saying this method wont work? I'm about to order UV powder but if I'm just throwing money away I wont make my order. Or does that apply when only using UV powder only?
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  #1773 (permalink)  
Old 10-11-2008, 01:50 AM
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Thought I would put out some good tips for people doing CA that I have noticed over the last month or so specifically for the back, if you feel the real barcode on the back of CA DL it is raised above the license, if you take a screwdriver and run it up and down the white spaces of the lines you can get the same bumpy feel, also most temps floating around are missing something very important, on the text on the lower right where it says "this license" most temps look like this "this license" when if you look at a real one they say "this License" with a capital L.

Last edited by declined; 10-11-2008 at 06:02 PM.
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  #1774 (permalink)  
Old 10-11-2008, 01:51 AM
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stamping UV powder and UV ink are two different things. UV powder can be stamped much easier than real ink.
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  #1775 (permalink)  
Old 10-11-2008, 05:15 PM
caliid2006 caliid2006 is offline
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Sorry, for Texas you DO use UV powder, because the real ones use UV powder. And it stamps better because you mix it with pearl ex. My error.

But stamping UV powder by itself? I have never seen a really clean, smooth, good job of this. I have only been able to Alps UV powder... Is there a way to get the powder to stick smoothly with a stamp?
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UV carts & LA ID
  #1776 (permalink)  
Old 10-11-2008, 06:46 PM
frizbee frizbee is offline
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Default UV carts & LA ID

I have used the VersaInk carts (purchased through Sam's website that someone suggested on here a while back.)

They work great for my state (Louisiana), which has a bluish/white (pretty standard) UV mark. Since VersaInk only makes one color though, this wouldn't work for all.

Before this, I tried buying one of the UV ink stamp pads off of MAxMax, got a custom stamp, and tried doing it that way. This methods totally didn't work for me. Perhaps others have had better luck. But if possible, I'd go the ink carts route, especially if your state uses the rather "standard" fluorescent color.

Also, for the thermal transfer holos...I've been printing them out using cleaning cartridges, which print clear. In fact, if you buy the VersaInk carts, it will come with the "jetfix" stuff, which is just clear solution for cleaning out the black print head in preparation for the UV cart...these work great for this.

If anybody out there is working on Louisiana...hit me up. I'd love to bounce around some ideas and methods.
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  #1777 (permalink)  
Old 10-12-2008, 02:40 AM
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can anyone here tell me the best place to buy/obtain UV ink that is ready or easy to mix for refilling an ink cart with? I am in need of green/red

thanks
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  #1778 (permalink)  
Old 10-12-2008, 01:49 PM
frizbee frizbee is offline
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has anyone actually ordered UV carts from FakeProof? they seem the most promising, but I'm not going to recommend something that I haven't tried myself. If we can get someone to vouch for them, then I think they would be the best bet.
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Fake-Proof
  #1779 (permalink)  
Old 10-12-2008, 04:40 PM
id-enticle id-enticle is offline
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Default Fake-Proof

I have ordered some UV ink carts from fake proof and tracking indicates 2 days until delivery, I will post my results as soon as I have tested.
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  #1780 (permalink)  
Old 10-12-2008, 06:21 PM
goose5741 goose5741 is offline
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does anybody have an il template they'd be willing to post?
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  #1781 (permalink)  
Old 10-13-2008, 04:17 AM
getdowngetdirty getdowngetdirty is offline
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cali, who makes good uv ink carts besides perf, or who supplies uv ink that will actually flow through an ink cart?

Last edited by getdowngetdirty; 10-13-2008 at 08:54 AM.
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need az temp
  #1782 (permalink)  
Old 10-14-2008, 12:23 AM
jrofaz jrofaz is offline
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Default need az temp

kinda new here, but i have been looking a while for some good photoshop temps. I really need AZ, if anyone has a good quality temp please send me a PM.
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  #1783 (permalink)  
Old 10-14-2008, 12:48 AM
civicsiracer civicsiracer is offline
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Does anyone know where I could get inkjet printable pvc cards?
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  #1784 (permalink)  
Old 10-14-2008, 02:50 AM
Rainer Maria Rilke Rainer Maria Rilke is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by civicsiracer View Post
Does anyone know where I could get inkjet printable pvc cards?
To print onto pvc you will need a printer that can print onto pvc(read thick plastic). You can't run pvc through a regular printer. PVC Printers are quite expensive and high quality ones are quite the cost. You could print on a adhesive clear and toss it on a blank pvc card, overlay and you are done. Or you could try that pvc without pvc printer method otherwise I am unsure and what you desire.
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Nys
  #1785 (permalink)  
Old 10-14-2008, 02:57 AM
captainkirk captainkirk is offline
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Cool Nys

I am looking to develop a top notch NYS Novelty ID. Please PM me so we can discuss further.

Thanks!
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  #1786 (permalink)  
Old 10-14-2008, 06:07 AM
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Posting this on behalf of a friend:

Do you guys think a simple ID, printed on cardboard and laminated (like a school ID or something) would be believable.
If so how believable. In MY opinion, you could pass for pensionors bus tickets and things, but im not sure about alcohol or smokes...
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  #1787 (permalink)  
Old 10-14-2008, 09:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by civicsiracer View Post
Does anyone know where I could get inkjet printable pvc cards?
you can print on PVC cards with an inkjet as long as you have the right inks and trays. They make a PVC tray for certain epson printers, you can find them on ebay and other places but the printers themselves are actually rather hard to find.

you HAVE to use a dye or a pigment based ink, and you're probably best off getting a CIS tank and buying your own inks bulk.
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  #1788 (permalink)  
Old 10-14-2008, 02:59 PM
civicsiracer civicsiracer is offline
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Yea I have the printer and the tray. I was just told that I have to have special PVC cards. I have tried regular but they dont print on it correctly. It bubbles up and doesn't dry at all. They said I need inkjet printable cards. I know they exist because I got some with the tray. I just am almost out and need more.
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UV Carts
  #1789 (permalink)  
Old 10-14-2008, 04:22 PM
tertiarybuffer tertiarybuffer is offline
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Default UV Carts

Quote:
Originally Posted by id-enticle View Post
I have ordered some UV ink carts from fake proof and tracking indicates 2 days until delivery, I will post my results as soon as I have tested.
Hey, any luck on the Fake-Proof Carts. I am going to order some myself and was curious as to how it's going so far?
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  #1790 (permalink)  
Old 10-14-2008, 04:56 PM
biz9lljames biz9lljames is offline
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i have old illinois and new. They may need some slight editing.
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CA
  #1791 (permalink)  
Old 10-14-2008, 06:21 PM
tertiarybuffer tertiarybuffer is offline
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Default CA

I am in need of a high quality CA template, If anybody is willing to collaborate on CA, PM me as I am willing to work something out. thanks
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  #1792 (permalink)  
Old 10-14-2008, 06:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by civicsiracer View Post
Yea I have the printer and the tray. I was just told that I have to have special PVC cards. I have tried regular but they dont print on it correctly. It bubbles up and doesn't dry at all. They said I need inkjet printable cards. I know they exist because I got some with the tray. I just am almost out and need more.
hmm that is odd. I was under the impression that you could use just any card. Could you by chance show me what cards you are using now? You might have better luck with fargo ultracards.
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  #1793 (permalink)  
Old 10-14-2008, 08:15 PM
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Has anyone been sucessfull in hacking regular square ink carts and replacing with alcohol based UV ink?
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  #1794 (permalink)  
Old 10-14-2008, 09:30 PM
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unfortunately i think this forum is full of people waiting for other to test and find solutions that work for UV while no one (other than a few select people) are really doing any tests of there own. I am going to get some more inks and dyes/pigments and hopefully come up with something soon
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  #1795 (permalink)  
Old 10-14-2008, 11:58 PM
getdowngetdirty getdowngetdirty is offline
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i hacked an ink cart and put riskreactors IF2-C uv inks in there (metal surface ink) and its too thick to flow through. im gonna trying the porous uv ink which should work, since their staff told me that one works. also, maxmax's inks won't work unless you dilute it and thin it out.
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  #1796 (permalink)  
Old 10-15-2008, 01:15 AM
frizbee frizbee is offline
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Anybody have any problems with the UV mark "dropping out" over areas where there is a lot of ink? I put the UV mark directly onto the inside of the lam, but for some reason it doesn't fluoresce over the headshot for instance. I could understand this happening if I was trying to print the UV directly onto the artisyn, but thats not the case. The part of the image where the obstruction is happening was printed on a color laser printer.

I know the new NJ id has first initial, last name, and DOB printed in UV over the picture... how have you all doing the new NJ been getting around this?

Declined: at least for me, its not for a lack of testing, but rather a lack of breakthroughs that I don't post about UV perfection.

Hopefully someone out there has got/can get this down...

(PS: This occurs using two diff types of alcohol based UV inks...)
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  #1797 (permalink)  
Old 10-15-2008, 05:09 AM
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Types of Barcodes
On drivers licenses today there are two types of barcodes and one type of magnetic strip that could be on your license. Some licenses have a barcode, some have two, some have a magstrip, some have nothing, some have a barcode and a magstrip. It all depends on what state you're doing.

Making the barcodes is quite easy and requires no special equipment.
There are two types of barcodes, 1D and 2D. “D” stands for dimension. A 1D barcodes is the barcode you are most familiar with and looks something like this - hxxp://tinyurl.com/52wqoc
If you notice the pattern is the same along the y-axis and only changes along the x-axis. It is a effectively a line that has just been stretched to make scanning easier. A line is a one dimensional shape and thus this type of barcode is referred to as 1D.
A 2D barcodes makes use of both length and width. Here is an example of a 2D barcode - hxxp://tinyurl.com/4ytngs

Here is the back of a NY drivers license which makes use of both types of barcodes - hxxp://i36.tinypic.com/2ekrvuv.gif

Currently 39 states use the 2D barcode (unfortunately I don't have the list of states)
What I do know is that North Carolina and Georgia have encrypted barcodes. Illinois and Kentucky have partially encrypted barcodes with the exception of a couple fields. There is currently no way to decode them, so for now you're not going to get a perfect scannable ID of those states. However, listen to this – the main reason that there is a 2D barcode on your ID is so the police officer who pulls you over doesn't have to manually enter in all of your information. I have never seen a liquor store that scans your 2D barcode to make sure you are 21. Or if they do, I've never seen them actually bother to scan one. Here in New York they scan the 1D barcode now and then because that contains your DOB and expiration and those types of scanners are much cheaper. So if you're doing a state where you have both 1D and 2D, its only really important to get the 1D right. Ok, ok, but what about just in case you happen to be the unlucky sob who finds a liquor store that scans 2D and you have an ID from one of those 4 states. Well from what I've heard most liquor stores that scan just get a message on their screen that says you're over 21. Some just have a light that turns green if you're over 21 and red if you're under 21. In that case, it doesn't matter if the name, age, address, ect on the 2D barcode matches the text on the front. All that matters is that the age is over and the expiration date is valid. So go ahead and copy the barcode of someones ID from that state and just use that. Now of course if you are doing any other state you should strive for perfection, so the next step is all about making 2D barcodes.

Decoding 2D barcodes
Before I go into making 2D barcodes, you need to understand what they look like when scanned.
Go ahead and download this program - hxxp://tinyurl.com/4gqsj8
Now scan or take a high quality photo of the back of your drivers license. Crop so the only thing in the image is the barcode and make sure it is aligned properly. The max width is 2000px
Hit decode and a window will pop up. You can view the information processed, in raw bytes, or in hex.
Here is what mine looked like processed:
Code:
Name=xxxxxxxxxx
Address=xxxxxxxxx
City=xxxxxxx
State=xx
Zipcode=xxxxxx
Driver License Number=xxxxxxxx
Driver Classification Code=D
Driver Restriction Code=I
Driver Endorsements Code=
License Expiration Date=xxxxxxxx
Date of Birth=xxxxxxxx
Sex=MALE
Of course I replaced the real information with xxxx's, but you get the idea.

Making a 2D barcode
First I'm going to tell you the right way to make a barcode. Unfortunately I seem to be to fucking stupid to get it to work. But I'm still trying and I'm posting this information so others can mess around and maybe get it to work.

First you want to decode the barcode with a program called Decode417Demo
hxxp://rapidshare.com/files/151898317/Decode417Demo.zip.html
Its good because it shows all of the characters in an unedited format

Then you want to take that data and use one of the follow generator programs:
This one - hxxp://www.cyanosoft.com/download/index.htm (Cool Barcode Maker - PDF417)
Or this one - hxxp://tinyurl.com/4clnkl

In the barcode generator program you want to make a barcode that is identical to the barcode on your ID. Once you've done that you can start changing fields. When you're done, check it with the “2D_Barcode_Decorder.jar” to see that its still read properly

If you can do this, then make a post explaining how you did it.

Now the bullshit method that I can kinda get to work
Use this program - hxxp://rapidshare.com/files/151901120/EthicsUniversalIDBarcoder.rar.html
Open it up, select Massachusetts and fill in fields. hxxp://i36.tinypic.com/ofpkd2.jpg
Save the barcode
Open it with “2D_Barcode_Decorder.jar”
The processed information looks like:
Code:
Address=56 FAKE RDDAIBOSTONDAJMADAK12345DAQS485651DARDDASIDATDBA20110315DBB19850315DBCMDBD
City=BOSTONDAJMADAK12345DAQS485651DARDDASIDATDBA20110315DBB19850315DBCMDBD
State=MA
Zipcode=12345DAQS485651DARDDASIDATDBA20110315DBB19850315DBCMDBD
Driver License Number=S485651DARDDASIDATDBA20110315DBB19850315DBCMDBD
Driver Classification Code=DDASIDATDBA20110315DBB19850315DBCMDBD
Driver Restriction Code=IDATDBA20110315DBB19850315DBCMDBD
Driver Endorsements Code=DBA20110315DBB19850315DBCMDBD
License Expiration Date=03/15/2011
License Issued Date=
Date of Birth=03/15/1985
Sex=MALE
Now as you can see all of the fields have the right information, there is just a bunch of gibberish that follows it. The only fields that really make any sense are State,Expiration,DOB, and Sex
If you read what I wrote earlier, then these barcodes should still scan and pass because the DOB and expiration are the only fields that they check. Unfortunately I cannot verify this.

Thats all for right now. Next post will include info on the 1D barcode and the magstrip, and hopefully an update on 2D barcodes.

EDIT: I am the original author of this, and if someone wants to give me a template for my efforts, please let me know. I currently only have one fairly shitty one that I get by with.

Last edited by pr22; 10-15-2008 at 05:11 AM.
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  #1798 (permalink)  
Old 10-15-2008, 08:51 PM
declined declined is offline
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im looking for scans of a real over 21 tx DL, i have temps to trade, pm me
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  #1799 (permalink)  
Old 10-16-2008, 03:19 AM
goose5741 goose5741 is offline
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in the market for a midwest temp, with holo layers and from a state that is possible to make scan....somehow...upper midwest that is...tx is just to far
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Old 10-16-2008, 04:23 AM
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Does anyone know a program that can decode 1D barcodes? I'm working on making a scannable michigan. Also does anyone have any tips on disassembling ink cartridges? I'm trying to break open an empty one so I can fill one of the sponges with invisible ink.
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