The 'Official' Novelty ID thread [for ALL novelty questions]

[lextacy]

Originally Posted by DarKzidE

Hi!, first of all Im new to the forum, i have being reading and find lots of interesting tips!

I have being using some time now PhotoEZ for replicating Cali's Hologram, it works OK but not that good, since you really have to have some experience on it, or else you will get a blurry hologram, and if your like me, and print on Photo paper, and then Laminate, and your using Pearl Ex, its going to get more blurry since some Lamination paper attract the pigments and you could end up with a messy laminated hologram.

Im looking for a better, faster way to print cali's hologram over photo paper, or lamination paper, i have seen calis hologram over lamination paper, but a few months ago, they kill the guy that was selling it to me, and didnt ever mention with what equipment. so im pretty stuck right now with PhotoEZ and PearlEx,

please if some1 could help with a higher quality/faster way... i would appreciated

i have read that there some machines, and press equipment, but looks like some or not working or just not good enought. any suggestions?

thanks in advance

In your case I would recommend the ALPS method.

[realgone]

Originally Posted by taylorn

MEGAUPLOAD - The leading online storage and file delivery service

Woohooo! All images are saved as 75 dpi. Just open them in Photoshop, click Image, Image Size, and change resolution to 300 dpi and you will be good to go. Let me know if any of the scans are not up to par, as I didn't sit and look at each induvidual one to inspect for quality assurance.
Hope this helps all you guys out.
Taylor

Thanks for the up

[fleshlight]

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[Mvpsoriano]

Two questions.

Is there any coding that goes into a California License #? I checked in the barbook and it says uncoded. If so what is it?

Also, have people used the mag stripe after it was encoded using the Jerm software? and has it worked?

Thanks.

[taylorn]

Hey guys. It has been brought to my attention that when you change the resolution of the bar book scans back to 300, it's still blurry compared to the original scans. I tried this method after seeing thats what the Ultimage guide did to make the 1200 dpi temps an easier size to upload/download. does anyone know how I can fix that? The original scans are truly awsome and I want everyone to have that good of quality.

[lextacy]

I would like to point out a rather very serious issue with the Ultimate ID guide parts 1 and 2. The SD template had 3 problems with it that can render anyone making an ID off of the guide in big trouble.

1. The header that says South Dakota is suppose to be the actual official SD logo. You can google it and its there. The one used in the template is just a preset word art.
2. The fonts are wrong. I know they don't NEED to exactly match the real ones but the ones in the guide are way off. They are too thin. Try printing them and your in trouble.
3. The expiration date field is missing. The most serious thing to leave out right here.
4. In addition, but not a huge deal, the template only has the blue one. However if you were to make a 18 year old DL to get tobacco, they have to have a red DL, and it has MANY differences. It advertises "under 21" about 3 different times on the front and once on the back. They use whats called "phantom numbers" for your 21 year. If anyone wants a short tutorial on how to make phantom numbers for your state give me a pm.

Who wants to help me make a 2-D for my state?

[DarKzidE]

Originally Posted by taylorn

Hey guys. It has been brought to my attention that when you change the resolution of the bar book scans back to 300, it's still blurry compared to the original scans. I tried this method after seeing thats what the Ultimage guide did to make the 1200 dpi temps an easier size to upload/download. does anyone know how I can fix that? The original scans are truly awsome and I want everyone to have that good of quality.

I dont understand much your problem, but i have seeing a lot of problems with barcoding, and resolution, Corel Draw most recent versions, have coding Software, with custom resolution!! hope this helps some1

[DarKzidE]

Originally Posted by lextacy

In your case I would recommend the ALPS method.

Any special model in mind? or just the most recent model?

btw what/where would i find special ink, for the holo's that go from silver-gold effect

[DarKzidE]

bagss

6) Optical variable ink as used in the printing of holo's
hxxp://kaishimei.en.china.cn/selling-leads/detail,1077027040,Optical-variable-ink-OVI-ink.html
This ink also came from my friend in china but at least the cans had the mnf's name & part number on them. The same ink style is sold by company called fake proof @ a high cost where as you can go straight to mnf thus saving you money.

This ink is only for SilkScreen or type machines!, do you have any other model of a more commercial/home printing system that could be use with this ink?

[sickrat]

Hey does anybody know of a good technique for separating butterfly pouches.. mine came today in the mail and the tops are attached so i cant get the card to fill the whole thing.. and when i peel it apart it kinda messes it up .. anybody?

[NateTheGreat11]

Two Questions:

1. Does anyone have a method on removing the keys from the "Key and Seal Hologram"

2. Does anyone have a method to removing the existing ink of a PVC card...
If I wanted to wipe one side clear to the white PVC while leaving the other side its original print.

[lextacy]

Originally Posted by NateTheGreat11

Two Questions:

1. Does anyone have a method on removing the keys from the "Key and Seal Hologram"

2. Does anyone have a method to removing the existing ink of a PVC card...
If I wanted to wipe one side clear to the white PVC while leaving the other side its original print.

One cannot remove the ink due to it bieng heat fused on the card. But you can fade it pretty good. Rememeber it was dye-sub that put the ink there in the first place.

[NoterixDivil]

Originally Posted by DarKzidE

Any special model in mind? or just the most recent model?

btw what/where would i find special ink, for the holo's that go from silver-gold effect

get the md-5000 it and the ink are avalible on ebay

[NoterixDivil]

i found this quote about the same thing after mkmk posted all that there are alot of flaws in it but it still works to the untrained eye..

Originally Posted by pinc

it spreads the pixels. when you cut it down to 300dpi, that 900dpi of information is gone. most people don't notice the difference in high quality print files. When you resize it back to 1200dpi, the file size might magically be the same, but that 40mb or so of data is something photoshop guesses on. the original quality of the file is gone... when you bump it up, you will then have a 1200dpi file that is really 300dpi with crappy adjustments. If you tell me you printed it and noticed no difference, it's because most people can't tell a difference past 300dpi prints. But someone who knows what they are talking about will point it out. You can go down in dpi fine, but going up is not the same. Just because photoshop allows you to do it, doesn't mean the quality will stay the same.

i'm not trying to be mean, but this forum discussion is all about making the highest of quality fake id, and your providing information that is hindering that. Now seriously don't take me wrong, you've helped a lot, that release of tons of templates will be helpful to many people I'm sure, but it has a flaw in it, and it should be corrected.

To prove my point, take one of your templates and resize it to, let's say 20dpi, and then resize it back to the original dpi, don't tell me for one second it looks like it did before you resized it.

[koolschooler]

Originally Posted by fleshlight

Anyone with any tips on getting a perfect cut with a Die Cutter? I hate fucking up at the end

just take a pair of scissors and slide it alo0ng the top
there shoudn't be any need to actually cut, putting the sicissors along the screase at the top should be sharp enough to sepereate it

[taylorn]

Hey guys. I am in the process of uploading to megaupload the bar book in the 300 dpi format, which is taking quite a while. But I just got in the mail today a certain product that I found and thought would make the rubber stamp holo process very easy. From what I've read, most people mix dry pearl ex with a clear base, stamp that and then stamp the id. Well, I went into my local craft store to see what they had in the form of pearl ex and all they had was some other brand emossing powder. I pick up that and a bottle of clear embossing ink, which states that you rub the dobber aplicator over the stamp, then apply the embossing powder to the stamp and then transfer to the paper. I tried that and the holos came out HORRIBLE. Back to the drawing board. While trying that method, my special product was still being shipped, but now I have it. Its Pearl Ex Stamp Pad. Yeah, its awsome. Its just like a regular ink stamp pad, but its Metallic Gold. They only have select few colors right now, so its not for people that are trying to get there holos to look identical to a certain states, but without trying, I just opened up the stamp pad, rubbed the stamp on it, and just stamped my id to produce a very good, in my opinion, hologram. Its awsome, but a little on the expensive side, at like 8 bucks per stamp pad, and they also have for like 5 bucks a re-inker for it. But it seems that its alot easier doing that then mixing up the clear base and stuff. Just thought I would let you guys know about that, and once I get some more supplies, I'll get a picture up of a completed nov with stamp pad holo.

[therubberdecoy]

Does anyone know how to make the arizona hologram and nevada one?

I was thinking of using a pigment similar to pearlex and an adhesive spray to make it stick to PVC? Could I use a decco (paint pen) and sprinkle a little pigment on the deco hologram? Or could I just use paint and a stencil?

or could i just use the embossing powder like pearlex and use a heat gun to make it melt evenly and nicely in the stencil?

Does anyone know where I could get stencils made?

[fleshlight]

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[VooDoo]

I'm in the process of making Texas ID's and have the invisible green UV powder from Risk Reactor that I am mixing in with the Pearl-Ex. I am also doing the thermal transfer method. The problem is I am not seeing any of the invisible green UV powder light up under the black-light on the hologram after doing the thermal transfer and getting the hologram on the lamination. Anybody know what could possibly be the problem and how I can fix it where the ID will black-light correctly?

[NoterixDivil]

Hey mkmk

The Ultimate Fake ID Guide v2 you say there is a kansas template but i dont see one in any of the template folders did you miss puting it in or did you not include it for some reason? id realy like to get my hands on a ks temp, can you help me out? Also in v2 all the temps except the cali and ny fonts are not included would you release those please too?

Did you ever release version 3 of The Ultimate Fake ID Guide? I saw you said something about releasing it in ten daya way back on December 24, 2008, what gives? If you need someone to upload it i will...

Originally Posted by mkmk

The Ultimate Fake ID Guide VERSION 2 is being released in around 2-3 days, it will have more updates along with the 2008 bar book and many new temps:

Arizona (Front & Back)
California (Front & Back)
Florida (Front & Back)
Georgia (Front & Back)
Hawaii (Front)
Illinois previous (Front & Back)
Illinois newest (Front)
Iowa (Front & Back)
Kansas (Front & Back)
Kentucky (Front & Back)
Maine (Front & Back)
Massachusetts previous (Front & Back)
Maryland (Front)
Michigan (Front & Back)
Missouri (Front)
Montana (Front)
Nevada (Front & Back)
New Mexico previous (Front)
New York previous (Front & Back)
New Jersey (Front)
North Carolina (Front)
North Dakota previous (Front)
Ohio (Front)
Pennsylvania (Front)
South Carolina (Front)
South Dakota (Front)
Tennessee (Front & Back)
Texas (Front & Back)
Virginia (Front)
Washington (Front)
Wisconsin previous (Front)

United Kingdom (Front & Back)



Whoever tried to order a barbook from the official site, there's a much easier way. There are at least 2 companies in the U.S. that sell the ID Checking Guides. The both have websites you can order from. One company is in California and the other is in New York, both company don't even bother to verify you.

I won't say the site names publicly, but when you find the 2 sites just keep the urls to yourselves so they don't catch on to people buying them to make fake ids. Just do some searching, they both are easy to find. You won't need a 2008 bar book because that will be uploaded with Version 2, but the new bar books usually come out in Febuary of each year so you can buy a new one in Feb 2009.

[koolschooler]

Originally Posted by fleshlight

You've got me confused with another guys question. I'm talking about when the i.d's laminated and ready to be cut out

sorry, that was supposed to go out to sickrat

[sickrat]

thank you...

is it bad to just laminate one side of the teslin and then the other side?

do you or anybody have any tips when laminating teslin with butterfly pouches.. i need as much information as possible.. weather it is something really stupid or something really important.. any body have any good info?

[NoterixDivil]

Im trying to find the 2009 kansas template, if anyone has it please send me a message.

[sa3er]

I need thejerm font , for photoshop.

Please attention that i don't want thejerm software.I don't want a physical ID. I working with photoshop !
so please give me that font
can you help me ?
Tank you very much

[quiotie]

I've read quite a bit of this thread but not the whole thing, so I apologize if this has already been talked about.

I'm looking to get a nov and I was /almost/ persuaded by some sites i found out there including i-d-s[dot]tv until i found this site and a post on the first page saying it's probably not legit. My question is, everyone says online sites are scams, and I realize that theres no reason they shouldnt be scams, but has anyone actually tried to get an id from one of those places and has it really not worked out?

Also, I have an email address from someone who supposedly makes Id's in the US and I was thinking about trying out that avenue, I figure that since he isnt out there on the web for everyone to see maybe it's a little more legit, but I'm still not still not sure I want to take the chance, and wondering if people have also have advice on email-only vendors.

I realize if its not face to face, its constantly a guessing game, but any helpful tips you guys have would be great. Thanks

[koolschooler]

Originally Posted by quiotie

I've read quite a bit of this thread but not the whole thing, so I apologize if this has already been talked about.

I'm looking to get a nov and I was /almost/ persuaded by some sites i found out there including i-d-s[dot]tv until i found this site and a post on the first page saying it's probably not legit. My question is, everyone says online sites are scams, and I realize that theres no reason they shouldnt be scams, but has anyone actually tried to get an id from one of those places and has it really not worked out?

Also, I have an email address from someone who supposedly makes Id's in the US and I was thinking about trying out that avenue, I figure that since he isnt out there on the web for everyone to see maybe it's a little more legit, but I'm still not still not sure I want to take the chance, and wondering if people have also have advice on email-only vendors.

I realize if its not face to face, its constantly a guessing game, but any helpful tips you guys have would be great. Thanks

there's a huge chance of getting ripped off (~95%)
good luck finding legit sites though (even those that DO make em tend to make really shitty ones)
THe only way you're gonna find a good one is through trial and error, or if you know someone irl that used a site and got one. don't trust ANY reviews on the internet. many are posted / websites set up BY the writers of the id websites

[VooDoo]

I need some help ASAP please...

I'm mixing Inference Gold and Sparkle Gold Pearl-Ex with Risk Reactor Invisible Green UV powder to make a Texas hologram using the thermal transfer method. The Green UV powder is not showing up though on the hologram under a black-light. Can I mix the invisible green UV powder with Pearl-EX? Or do I need to use some kind of transparent base? Does the powder work when doing the thermal transfer method? Any help on how to solve this problem is much appreciated. This seems to be the only thing holding me back right now.


And for the guy who was asking about ID sites in the post before:

Most novelty sites online are scams. No company can accurately make all 50 states to the correct specifications, so if they advertise more than a few states it's probably a scam. I've emailed some and they couldn't even tell me what hologram was on an ID from a specific state. You probably do have a better chance (but still slim) of receiving an ID through somebody who strictly deals through email. I ordered one from a guy through email a while back ago but the quality was shit, but at least I received something. Making your own may be the best way to go.


And for the guy who was asking about laminating each side separately:

You have to laminate both sides at the same type. You can not do one side at a time because you would be heating it up way to much and getting shitty results on the side you laminated first.

[sickrat]

thanks alot...

i have another question.... i just recieved my order from idsupplydotcom and i got a laminator from them and teslin sheets ... i ordered butteryfly pouches from a different site .. they are 5 mil matte/glossy ones.. when i laminate the teslin in it .. the id is very thin and stiff.. does anyone know of a different technique to make it more bendable ... also what is some good techniques for roughing up the surface to make it feel more real?

thanks alot... i appreciate it if anybody can please provide me with good information on that!!!!

thank you!!!!!!!

[Mvpsoriano]

Does anybody know of a free software that i can use to verify that my mag stripes are working properly. Im looking or something hat you can download on the computer and then run them through your msr. Or can anyone reassure me that the tracks produced by thejerm software and/or the aamva generator work? Thanks so much.

EDIT: also does anyone know what information in on a California 1D barcode? or know of a generator for it?

[NoterixDivil]

!i!i WARNING OF THE SECRET SERVICE i!i!

About four and a half years ago is when i first got involved with fake ids i was living in Arizona at the time working two jobs, so i had plenty of cash coming in and all the toys. I had the Japanese release of the Alps MD-5000g, yes i said g it stood for green it was among a series released specially for the iMacs they were clear and colored just like the iMacs and it came with the dye-sub upgrade already hardwired loaded, other then that i had the markets top Epson photo printer a digital camera and a scanner and then a die cutter just about every pearl ex powder they make and was just getting into the UV trying the alps method which didn't work didn't even think of it being soluble and being possible to pass through a print head the method used today. Because i had an MSR206 i kinda started getting into carding as well and id say that where my trouble really started because i ended up having an agent from the secret services cyber crime Internet fraud division or something like that and what he had was pictures of skimmers and this and that skimmers and shit asking me if i knew what they were of course i didn't say anything and acted stupid as i knew if i said ohhh yea that's a skimmer used for stealing credit card numbers id be in a world of shit more then i was so they took all my equipment including my computer to do forensic data analyst on they were looking for something to link me to credit card fraud which i had not enough to do with no dumps or anything like that i never got into it enough to fuck with i was mearly interested in the encryption that the banks used, they found nothing gave me my computer back and not much of my other equipment id like to post this as a warning from previous experience they found me directly from a forum or group just like this I'm not sure if any of you are firmilure of the group shadow crew they were a group of carders that on of there members ended up being an agent and taking just about all of them down. The government could be any one of us and we must take measures or at least be cautious for our own protection, id love to see some sorta better filtration or investigation of every member that signs up as well as encryption on our messages for sensitive subjects.