Thermal Heat Transfer ?

[drastice]

Okay. So I have bought transparencies. I put them through my ink jet and they did not come out wet at all?? I'm using TX holo from the guide and i first tryed it on my laser printer but realized itd dry instantly so did my ink jet and it wasn't wet at all. If i solve this. Do i just apply the perl ex or do i mix it with speedball first then put it over?? any tips would be appreciated

[drastice]

nothing at all?

[spunone69]

Sorry to burst your "bubble", but that method for making holo's is horrible!! The best results is to use a dye-sub printer that prints a clear over-coat and then apply it reversed to the inside of the lamination, then apply the lamination with minimal heat to avoid damaging the holo image!! I've tested numerous methods of creating holo's over the years and the the dye-sub method produces the cleanest results...

[spunone69]

Inkjet transparencies will not come out "wet" enough to apply pearl-ex or interference powders because of two reasons: one; the transparencies are "coated" with a chemical to help the ink "stay put" and dry faster and two; most newer inkjets have a "fast drying" ink so that the photos don't smear, smudge or run while they're being printed. You will need to find a very old epson or canon inkjet to print "wet" transparencies...

[Black1986]

Yes I am an ignoramus, so excuse the sophomoric question; are dry-sub printers manufactured in inkjet and/or laser form?

[Black1986]

Do you still apply the pearl-Ex to the dry-sub ink/clear coat---or is there other preparation involved too? Thanks and again, sorry for the repititious posts.

[spunone69]

First of all, the only "stupid" question is one that you did not ask...you can ask me anything, I won't lie to you, or feed you a bunch of BS. If I can answer, I will, if I can't, I'll tell you "I don't know"...it's NOT KNOWING that made me learn a lot of the things I know now!! As for your question about dye-sub printers, the answer is NO!! Dye-sub or dye sublimation is ANOTHER form of printing that's different from inkjet and laser all together. It uses dry ribbons and and low thermal heat transfer to bond the colors from the ribbon to the media you're printing on. Laser printers WILL NOT print holos no matter what you do, the heat level in their fuser units will destroy any laminating material you try to feed through it (and it will ruin the printer too) and inkjets use wet ink which smears the interference powders and tends to cover the final results with small blotches of beaded up ink and powder. Since the dye-sub inks are dry (ribbons) they lay perfectly over the powder without disturbing it and effectively bond it to the lamination.

[altsighted]

How are you suggesting you get the holos onto the dye-sub overcoat? Or is that even what you're suggesting...

[J10New21]

My question is with the method of smearing the mixed pearlex and speedball base on the laminate sheet and then sending it through dye sub printer. How does this not smear the mixed pearl ex? And if it doesnt, does the black ink bond the mixed pearlex to the laminate sheet? thanks

[spunone69]

First off...read the tutorial on "printing holos with a dye-sub" (that's DYE-sub not DRY-sub) The process bonds the powder to the inside of the lamination using a "clear" ribbon, not black ink, not speed-ball ink base!! You just coat the inside of the lamination with the powder, and print the "clear" over the powder in the design you want. When you rinse off the excess powder, the design is left behind because the clear coat "bonds" it to the lamination. Read the tutorial, it explains it...