IMPROVISED MUNITIONS

Black Books Vols. I, II, and III

"Nothing added, nothing taken away"

Typed by The Mad Cracker

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Opening: Greetings! Welcome to my first major production. What the hell is
this guy babbling about "black books"? Well, in the 60’s a special forces
program was developed at the Frankford arsenal to develop and test improvised
explosives. What you see here are the results of these tests. Typed directly
from Army TM 31-210 and Desert Publication’s Black Book Vol. III.

Disclaimer: I take absolutely no responsibility for the use of this material,
whether it be direct or indirect. What I have done here is simply provide this
information for one purpose only (har har) and that is for informational
purposes only. All information here, however, should be taken as seriously as
the bible. You can very easily fuck up and get killed. Please be very, very
careful (shit, i sound like your mother) when dealing with any of the items
presented here. Note especially the section on improvised pistols.

thanx. and by god…

HAVE PHUN!

What would you guys like next?

(note: the first (good) part of the poor mans james bond is in the works.. I am
sick of seeing all of his good book trashed into many files, so I will present
it (like this) in volume form..)

Poor mans James bond (first section only… its all that is good)
Anarchist cookbook (oohhhh nooo…)
Principles of Improvised Explosive Devices (a bunch of switches and initiators)
FM 5-20 Camouflage
Complete guide to lock picking
Get Even I and II
TM 31-200-1 Unconventional warfare- both of these are about sabotage mainly
TM 31-201-1 Unconventional warfare references
Grandads Book of Chemistry (are you kidding?)
FM 3-50-1 Deliberate Smoke Operations (just for that HS lunchroom…)
FM 23-30 Grenades and Pyrotechnics
ST 21-75-3 Dismounted Patroling
FM 5-15 Field Fortification
U.S. Navy Seal Manual- underwater demolitions, etc.. good book.
Improvised Munition Systems
Special Forces Handbook
Special Forces Operational Techniques
Anarchist HANDBOOK
Weaponeer (another from ‘ole Kurt Saxon)
Imp. Weapons of Modern Ninja (supposed to be good, its on order..)

IMPROVISED MUNITIONS

Black Books Vols. I, II, and III

"Nothing added, nothing taken away"

Typed by The Mad Cracker

Plastic Explosive Filler Sec I, No. I

A plastic explosive filler can be made from potassium chlorate and petroleum
jelly. This explosive can be detonated with a commercial #8 or any military
blasting cap.

Materials Sources
——— ——-

Potassium chlorate Medicine, match heads (white)

Petroleum jelly (vaseline) Medicine, Lubricant

Round stick

Wide bowl or other container for mixing

Procedure
———

1. Spread potassium chlorate crystals thinly on a hard surface. Roll the
round stick over
crystals to crush into a very fine powder or wheat flower.

2. Place 9 parts powdered potassium chlorate and 1 part petroleum jelly
in a wide bowl or
similar container. Mix ingredients with hands
until a uniform paste is obtained.

Note: Store in a waterproof container until ready to use.

Potassium Nitrate Sec. I, No. 2

Potassium nitrate can be extracted from many natural sources and can be used to
make nitric acid, black powder and many pyrotechnics. The yield ranges from .1
to 10% by weight, depending on the fertility of the soil.

Materials Sources
——— ——-

Nitrate bearing earth or other material, Soil containing old decayed
about 3.5- gallons (13.5 liters) vegetable or animal matter
Old cellars/farm floors, earth /> from old burial grounds,
decayed stone or mortar
building foundations.

Fine wood ashes, about .5 cup (1/8 liter) totally burned whitish wood ash
powder, totally
black paper

Bucket, about 5 gallons (19 l) in volume

2 pieces finely woven cloth, each slightly
bigger than the bottom of the bucket

shallow pan or dish, at least as large as
the bottom of bucket

Shallow heat resistant container (ceramic,
metal, etc.)

Water- 1.75 gallons (6.75 l)

Awl, knife, or screwdriver, or other hole
punching tool

alcohol – 1 gallon (4 l) can be whiskey,
rubbing, etc.

heat source

paper

tape

Note: Only the ratios of the amounts of ingredients are important. Thus, for
twice as much, double all quantities.

Procedure
———

1. Punch holes in bottom of bucket. Spread one piece of cloth over holes
inside bucket.

2. Place wood ashes on cloth and spread to make a layer about the thickness of
the cloth.
Place second piece of cloth on top of ashes.

3. Place dirt in bucket.

4. Place bucket over shallow container. Bucket may be supported on sticks if
necessary.

5. Boil water and pour it over earth in bucket a little at a time. Allow
water to run through
holes in bucket into shallow container. Be sure water
goes through all the earth. Allow
drained liquid to cool and settle for 1
to 2 hours.

Note: Do not pour all the water at once, as this may cause stoppage.

6. Carefully drain off liquid into heat resistant container. Discard any
sludge remaining in
bottom of the shallow container.

7. Boil mixture over hot fire for at least 2 hours. Small grains of salt will
begin to appear
in the solution. Scoop these out as they form, using any
type of improvised strainer (paper,
etc)

8. When liquid has boilded down to approx. half its original volume, remove
from fire and let
sit. After half an hour, add an equal volume of alcohol.
When mixture is poured through paper,
small white crystals will collect on
top of it.

9. To purify the potassium nitrate, re-dissolve the dry crystals in the
smallest possible
amount of boiled water. Remove any salt crystals that
appear (step 7); pour through an
improvised filter made of several pieces
of paper and evaporate of gently heat the
concentrated solution to dryness.

10. Spread crystals on plat surface and allow to dry. The crystals are now
ready to use. />

Improvised Black Powder Sec. I, No. 3

Black powder can be prepared in a simple, safe manner. It may be used as
blasting or gun powder.

Materials Sources
——— ——-

Potassium nitrate, granulated 3 cups (.75 l)
see Sec. I, No. 2)

Wood charcoal, powdered, 2 cups (.5 l)

Sulfur, powdered, .5 cup (1/8 l)

Alcohol, 5 pints (2.5 l) whiskey, rubbing, etc.

water 3 cups, (.75 l)

heat source

2 buckets- each 2 gallon (7.5 l) cap., one of
which must be heat resistant (metal, ceramic)

Flat window screen 1 foot square

large wooden stick

cloth, 2 ft. sq.

Procedure
———

1. Place alcohol in one of the buckets.

2. Place potassium nitrate, charcoal, and sulfur in the heat resistant bucket.
Add 1 cups
water and mix thoroughly with wooden stick until all ingredients
are dissolved.

3. Add remaining water (2 cups) to mixture. Place bucket on heat source and
stir until small
bubbles begin to form.

Note: Do NOT boil mixture. Be sure all mixture stays wet. If any is dry, as on sides of pan, it
maignite.

4. Remove bucket from heat and pour mixture into alcohol while stirring
vigorously.

5. Let alcohol mixture stand about 5 minutes. Strain mixture through cloth to
obtain black
powder. Discard liquid. Wrap cloth around black powder and
squeeze to remove all excess
liquid.

6. Place screening over dry bucket. Place workable amount of damp powder on
screen and
granulate by rubbing solid through screen.

Note: If granulated particles appear to stick together and change shape,
recombine entire batch of powder and repeat steps 5 and 6.

7. Spread granulated powder on flat dry surface so that layer about .5" (1.25
cm) is
formed. Allow to dry. Use radiator, or direct sunlight. This
should be dried as soon as
possible, preferably in one hour. The longer
the drying period, the less effective the black
powder.

Note: Remove from here as soon as granules are dry. Black powder is now ready
for use.

Nitric Acid Sec. I, No. 4

Nitric acid is used in the preparation of many explosives, incendiary mixtures
and acid delay timers. It may be prepared by distilling a mixture of potassium
nitrate and concentrated sulfuric acid.

Materials Sources
——— ——-

Potassium nitrate (2 parts by volume) Drug store, improvised, (Sec. I
No. 2)

Concentrated sulfuric acid (1 part by vol) motor vehicle batteries,
industrial plants

2 bottles or ceramic jugs (narrow necks
preferable)

pot or frying pan

Heat source

Tape (paper, electrical, not cellophane)

Paper or rags

Note: If sulfuric acid is obtained from motor vehicles, it must be concentrated
by boiling until white fumes appear. Do NOT inhale fumes. Also, the amount of
nitric acid produced is the same as the amount of potassium nitrate used, so
for 2 tablespoons of nitric acid, use 2 tablespoons potassium nitrate and 1
tablespoon sulfuric acid.

Procedure
———

1. Place dry potassium nitrate in bottle or jug. Add sulfuric acid. Do not
fill more than 1/4
full Mix until a paste is formed.

Note: Treat sulfuric acid like any other acid, wash affected skin with water,
and dont inhale the fucking fumes.

2. Wrap paper or rags around necks of 2 bottles. Securly tape necks of
bottles together. Be
sure bottles are flush against each other and that
there are no air spaces.

3. Support bottles on rocks or cans so that empty bottle is slightly lower
than bottle
sontaining paste so that nitric acid is formed in receiving
bottle will not run into other
bottle.

4. Build fire in pot or frying pan.

5. Gently heat bottle containing mixture by moving fire in and out. As
red fumes begin to
appear periodically pour cold water over empty receiving
bottle. Nitric acid will begin to
form in the receiving bottle.

Note: Do not overheat or wet bottle containing mixture or it may shatter. As
an added protection, place bottle to be hated in a heat resistant container
filled with sand or gravel. Hear this outer container to produce nitric acid.

6. Continue the above process until no more red fumes are formed. If the
nitric acid formed in
the receiving bottle is not clear (cloudy) pour it
into cleaned bottle and repeat steps
2-6.

Note: Do not inhale fumes, and nitric acid should be stored in a sealed glass
or ceramic container.

Initiator for dust explosions Sec I, No. 5

An initiator which will initiate common material to produce dust explosions can
be rapidly and easily constructed. This type of charge is ideal for the
destruction of enclosed areas such as rooms or buildings.

Materials Sources
——— ——-

a flat can, 3 in. (8 cm) in diameter and
1-1.5 in. (3-3.75 cm) in height. A 6.5 oz.
Tuna can serves the purpose quite well

blasting cap

explosive

aluminum (may be wire, cust sheet, flat can,
or powder)

large nail, 4 in. (10 cm) long

wooden rod, .25 in. (6 mm) in diameter

flour, gasoline, and powder or chipped aluminum

Note: Plastic explosives (comp. C4, etc.) produce larger explosions that cast
explosives (comp. B, etc).

Procedure
———

1. Using the nail, press a hole through the side of the Tuna can 3/8 to 1/2
in. (1-1.5 cm)
from the bottom. Using a rotating a lever action, enlarge
the hole until it will accomodate
the blasting cap.

2. Place the wodden rod in the hole and position the end of the rod at the
center of the
can.

3. Press explosive into the can, being sure to surround the rod, until it is
3/4 in. (2 cm)
from top of the can. Carefully remove the wooden rod.

4. Place the aliminum metal on top of the explosive.

5. Just before use, insert the blasting cap into the cavity made by the
rod. The initiator is
now ready for use.

Note: If it is desired to carry the initiator some distance, cardboard may be
pressed on top of the aluminum to insure against loss of material.

How to Use
———-

This particular unit works quite well to initiate charges of five pounds of
flour, 1/2 gallon (1 2/3 l) of gasoline or two pounds of flake painters
aluminum. The solid materials may merely be contained in sacks or cardboard
cartons. The gasoline may be placed in plastic coated paper milk cartons,
plastic or glass bottles. The charges are placed directly on top of the
initiator and the blasting cap is actuated electrically or by fuse depending on
the type of cap used. This will destroy a 2,000 cubic feet enclosure (building
10×20x10 feet)

Note: For larger enclosures, use proportionally larger initiators ad charges.

_______________________
| |
| flour, gas, etc. |

|_______________________|
|_______| <- aluminum flake top layer
| |
| _-_-_|
<- explosive here (surrounding cap)
|____^__|\\
^ \\
cap \\ <- wires to cap

Fertilizer Explosive Sec. I, No. 6

An explosive munition can be made from fertilizer grade ammonium nitrate and
either fuel oil or a mixture of equal parts of motor oil and gasoline. When
properly prepared, this explosive can be detonated with a blasting cap.

Materials Sources
——— ——-

Ammonium nitrate (not less than 32% nitrogen) farm, feed stores

Fuel oil or gasoline and motor oil (1:1) cars, trucks

Two flat boards, One which can be
comfortably held in the hand, i.e., 2"x4",
and 36"x36"

Bucket or other container for mixing items

Iron or steel pipe or bottle, tin can or heavy
walled cardboard tube

blasting cap

wooden rod, 1/4" in. diameter

spoon or similar measuring container

Procedure
———

1. Spread a hadful of the ammonium nitrate (an) on the large flat board and
rub vigorously
with the other board until the large particles are crushed
into a very fine powder that looks
like flour (approx. 10 min. per handful)

Note: Continue with step 2 as soon as possible, since the powder may take
moisture from the air and become spoiled.

2. Mix on measure (cup, tablespoon, etc) of fuel oil with 16 measures of the
finely ground AN
in a dry bucket or other suitable container and stir with
the wooden rod. If fuel oil is not
available, use one half measure of
motor oil. Store in a waterproof container until ready to
use.

3. Spoon this mixture into an iron or steel pipe which has and end cap
threaded on one end.
If a pipe is not available, you may use a dry tin
can, a glass jar or a heavy-walled
cardboard tube.

Note: Take care not to tamp or shake the mixture in the pipe. If mixture
becomes tightly packed, one cap will not be sufficient to initiate the
explosive.

4. Insert blasting cap just beneath the surface of the explosive mix.

Note: Confining the open end of the container will add to the effectiveness of
the explosive.

Carbon Tet Explosive Sec. I, No. 7

A moist explosive can be made from fine aluminum powder combined with carbon
tetrachloride or tetrachloroethylene. This explosive can be detonated with a
blasting cap.

Materials Sources
——— ——-

Fine aluminum bronzing powder paint and artists supplies

Carbon tetrachloride Pharmacy, or fire extingusher
or liquid
tetrachloroethylene dry cleaners

stirring rod (wood)

Mixing container

Measuring container

storage container with lid

blasting cap

pipe, can or jar

Procedure
———

1. Measure out two parts aluminum powder to one part carbon tetrachloride or

tetrachloroethylene liquid into the mixing container, adding liquid to
powder while stirring
with the wooden rod.

2. Stir until the mixture becomes the consistency of honey syrup.

Note: Fumes from the liquid are dangerous and should not be inhaled.

3. Store explosive in a jar or similar waterproof container until ready to
use. The liquid in
the mixture evaporates quickly when not confined.

Note: Liquid will detonate in this manner for a period of 72 hours.

How to Use
———-

1. Pour this mixture into an iron or steel pipe which has an end cap threaded
on one end. If
a pipe is not available, you may use a dry tin can or a
glass jar.

2. Insert blasting cap just beneath the surface of the explosive mix.

Note: Confining the open end of the explosive will add to the effectiveness of
the explosive.

Fertilizer AN-AL Explosive Sec. I, No. 8

A dry explosive mixture can be made from ammonium nitrate fertilizer combined
with fine aluminum powder. This explosive can be detonated with a blasting
cap.

Materials Sources
——— ——-

Ammonium Nitrate fertilizer (not less than Farm and feed stores
32% nitrogen)

fine aluminum bronzing powder paint or artists supply

Measuring container

Mixing container

two flat boards (one should be comfortably
held in the had and one very large, i.e.,
2"x4" and 36"x36")

Storage container

Blasting cap

Wooden rod- .25 in. in diameter

pipe, can or jar

Procedure
———

1. Method I- low velocity explosive

A. Use measuring container to measure four parts fertilizer to one part
aluminum powder
and pour into the mixing container. (ex. 4 cups fertilizer
to 1 cup aluminum powder)

B. Mix ingredients with the wooden rod

2. Method II- high velocity explosive

A. Spread a handful at a time of AN on the large flat board and rub
vigorously with the
other board until the large particles are crushed
into a very fine powder that looks like
flour. (approx. 10 min. per
handful)

Note: Proceed with step B below as soon as possible since the powder may take
moisture from the air and become spoiled.

B. Follow steps A and B of Method I.

3. Store the explosive mixture in a waterproof container, such as a flass jar,
steel pipe,
etc., until ready to use.

How to Use
———-

Follow steps 1 and 2 of "How to Use" in section I, No. 7.

Red or White powder propellant Sec. I, No. 9

Red or White powder propellant may be prepared in a simple, safe manner. The
formulation described below will result in approx. 2.5 lbs. of powder. This is
a small arms propellant and should only be used in weapons with .5 in. inside
diameter or less, such as the match gun, or the 7.62 carbine, but not pistols.

Materials Sources
——— ——-

Heat source
2 gallon metal bucket

Measuring cup (8 oz)

Wooden spoon or rubber spatula

metal sheet or aluminum foil (at least 18 sq. in.)

flat window screen

potassium nitrate (granulated)- 2.33 cups

white sugar (granulated)- 2 cups

powdered ferric oxide (rust)- 1/8 cup

clear water- 3.5 cups

Procedure
———

1. Place the sugar, potassium nitrate (pn), and water in the bucket. Heat
with a low flame,
stirring occasionally until the sugar and PN dissolve.

2. If available, add the ferric oxide (rust) to the solution. Increase the
flame under the
mixture until it boils gently.

Note: The mixture will retain the rust coloration.

3. Stro and scrape the bucket sides occasionally until the mixture is
reduced to one quarter
its original volume, then stir continuously.

4. As the water evaporates, the mixture will become thicker until it reaches
the consistency
of cooked breakfast cereal (yum!) or homemade fudge. At
this stage of thickness, remove the
bucket from the hear source and spread
the mass on the metal sheet.

5. While the material cools, score it with the spoon or spatula in
crisscrossedfurrows about
1 inch apart.

6. Allow the material to air dry, preferably in the sun. As it dries, rescore
it occasionally
(about every 20 minutes) to aid drying.

7. When the material has dried to a point to where it is moist and soft
but not sticky to the
touch, place a small spoonful on the screen. Rub
the aterial back and forth against the screen
mesh with a spoon or other
flat object until the material is granulated into small worm-like

particles.

8. After granulation, return the material to the sun to dry completely.

Nitric Acid/nitrobenzene ("Hellhoffite") explosive Sec. I, No. 10

An explosive munition can be made from mononitrobenzene and nitric acid. It is
a simple explosive to prepare. Just pour the nitrobenzene into the acid and
stir.

Materials Sources
——— ——-

Nitric acid Field grade or 90% concentrated
(specific gravity of 1.48)

Mononitrobenzene (nitrobenzene) drug store (oil of mirbane) or
chemical supply house

Acid resistant measuring containers Glass, clay, etc.

Acid resistant stirring rod (glass, etc)

Blasting cap

Wax

steel pipe, end cap, tape

bottle or jar

Note: Prepare this mixture just before use.

Procedure
———

1. Add 1 volume (cup, quart, etc) of mononitrobenzene to two volumes nitric
acid in a bottle
or jar.

2. Mix ingredients well by stirring with acid resistant rod.

Note: Nitric acid will burn skin and destroy clothing. If any is spilled, wash
well with water. Don’t inhale the fumes!

How to Use
———-

1. Wax blasting cap, pipe and end cap.

2. Thread end cap onto pipe.

3. Pour mixture into pipe.

4. Insert and tape blasting cap just beneath surface of mixture.

Note: Confining the open end will increase effectiveness of the weapon.

Optimized Process for Cellulose/Acid Exposive Sec. I, No. 11

An acid type explosive can be made from nitric acid and white paper or cotton
cloth. This explosive can be detonated with a commercial #8 cap or any
military blasting cap.

Materials Sources
——— ——-

Nitric acid Industrial metal processors,
90% concentrated (1.48 grvty.)
Field grade,
(sec. I, No. 4)

white unprinted, unsized paper paper towels, napkins

clean white cotton cloth clothing, sheets, better kmarts

Acid resistant container wax coated pipe or can, ceramic
pipe, glass jar, etc.

Aluminum foil or acid resistant material food stores

protective gloves

blasting cap

wax

Procedure
———

1. Put on gloves.

2. Spread out a layer of paper or cloth on aluminum foil and sprinkle with
nitric acid until
thoroughly soaked. If aluminum foil is unavailable, use
an acid resistant material (glass,
ceramic, etc)

Note: Use same warning again for handling acid.

3. Place another layer of paper or cloth on top of the acid-soaked sheet and
repeat step 2
above. Repeat as often as necessary.

4. Roll up the aluminum foil containing the acid-soaked sheets and insert the
roll into the
acid resistant container.

Note: If glass or ceramic tray is used, pick up with two wooden sticks and load
into container.

5. Wax blasting cap.

6. Insert the blasting cap in the center of the rolled sheets. Allow 5 min.
before detonating
the explosive.

Methyl Nitrate Dynamite Sec. I, No. 12

A moist explosive mixture can be made from sulfuric acid, nitric acid and
methyl alcohol. This explosive can be detonated with a blasting cap.

Materials Source
——— ——

Sulfuric Acid Clear battery acid boiled
until white fumes appear

Nitric Acid Field grade, (sec. I, No. 4),
sp. gravity of 1.48

Methyl alcohol methanol, wood alcohol, non-
permanant antifreeze

eyedropper or styring with glass tube

large diameter glass (2 qt.) jar

Narrow glass jars (1 qt.)

Absorbent (fine sawdust, shredded paper,
shredded cloth)

cup

pan (3-5 gallon)

teaspoon

wooden stick

steel pipe with end cap

blasting cap

water

tray

Procedure
———

1. Add 24 teaspoons of sulfuric acid to 16.5 teaspoons of nitric acid in the
2 qt. jar.

2. Place the jar in the pan (3-5 gallon) filled with cold water or in a stream
and allow to
cool.

3. Rapidly swirl the jar to create a whirlpool in the liquid (without
splashing) while
keeping the bottom portion of the jar in the water.

4. While continually swirling, add to mixture, .5 teaspoon at a time, 13.5
teaspoons of methyl
alcohol, allowing the mixture to cool at least one
minute between additions.

DANGER! PELIGRO!- If there is a sudden increase in the amount of fumes produced
of if the solution turns much darker or begins to froth, dump the solution in
the water within 10 seconds! This will help lengthen your life, and prevent an
accident.

5. After the final addition of methyl alcohol, swirl for another 35-40
seconds.

6. Carefully pour the solution into one of the narrow glass jars. Allow jar
to stand in water
for approx. 5 minutes until two layers separate.

7. With an eyedropper or styringe, remove top layer and CAREFULLY put into
another narrow
glass jar. This liquid is the explosve.

Note: Thought I should tell you, this is shock sensitive. (very)

8. Add an equal quantity of water to the explosive and swirl. Allow mixture
to separate again
as in step 6. The explosive is now the bottom layer.

9. Carefully remove the top layer with the eyedropper or styringe and
discard.

10. Place one firmly packed cup of absorbent in the tray.

11. While stirring with the wooden stick, slowly add explosive until the mass
is very damp but
not wet enough to drip. Explosive is ready to use.

Note: If it gets too wet, add more absorbent. If storage is required, store in
a sealed container to prevent evaporation. Do not allow this to touch the
skin. If it does, flush with large quantities of water. Keep grit, dirt, and
sand out of the mix.

How to Use
———-

1. Spoon this mixture into an iron or steel pipe which has an end cap
threaded on one end. If
a pipe is not available, you may use a dry tin
can or a glass jar.

2. Insert blasting cap just beneath the surfacr of the explosive mix.

Note: Confining the other end will add to the effectivenessof the explosive.

Urea nitrate explosive Sec I, No. 13

Urea nitrate can be used as an explosive munition. It is easy to prepare from
nitric acid and urine. It can be detonated with a blasting cap.

Materials Source
——— ——

Nitric acid, (90%, 1.48 sp. gravity) Field grade (sec. I, No. 4)

Urine Animals, yes, humans too

2 one gallon heat and acid resistant
containers (pyrex, ceramic)

Filtering material paper towel, fine cotton

Aluminum powder (optional) paint stores

heat source

measuring containers (cup and spoon)

water

tape

blasting cap

steel pipe and cap<s>

Note: Prepare mixture just before use.

Procedure
———

1. Boil a large quantity of urine (10 cups) to approx. 1/10 its volume (1 cup)
in one of the
containers over the heat source.

2. Filter the urine into the other container through the filtering material to
remove
impurities. Use tape to secure filter onto jar.

3. Slowly add 1/3 cup of nitric acid to the filtered urine, let stand for 1
hour.

4. Filter mixture as in step 2. Urea nitrate crystals will collect on the
paper.

5. Wash the urea nitrate by pouring water over it.

6. Remove urea nitrate crystals from the filtering and allow to dry
thoroughly (approx. 16
hours)

Note: Drying time can be reduced to two hours if a hot (not boiling) water bath
is used. See
step 5 of Sec I, No. 15.

How to Use
———-

1. Spoon urea nitrate crystals into an iron or steel pipe which has an end
cap screwed on one
end.

2. Insert blasting cap just beneath the surface of the urea nitrate crystals.

Note: This explosive can be made more effective by mixing with aluminum
powder (from paint
stores) in the ratio of 4:1. One cup aluminum powder
to four cups urea nitrate. Capping the
other end will add to the
effectiveness of the explosive.

Preparation of Copper Sulfate (Pentahydrate) Sec. I, No. 14

Copper sulfate is a required material for the preparation of TACC. See section
I, No. 16) />

Materials Sources
——— ——-

Pieces of copper or copper wire circuit boards, electronic
stores

Dilute sulfuric acid (battery acid)

Potassium nitrate (Sec. I, No. 2) or
Nitric Acid, (90%, 1.48 gr.)(Sec. I, No. 4)

Alcohol

water

two 1 pint jars or glasses, heat resistant

paper towels

pan
wooden stick or rod

improvised scale

cup

container

heat source

teaspoon

Procedure
———

1. Place 10 grams of copper pieces into one of the pint jars. Add 1 cup
(240 ml) of dilute
sulfuric acid to the copper.

2. Add 12 grams of potassium nitrate or 1.5 teaspoons of nitric acid to the
mixture.

Note: Nitric Acid gives a product of greater purity.

3. Heat the mixture in a pan of simmering hot water hath until the bubbling
has ceased
(approx. 2 hours). The mixture will turn to a blue color.

4. Pour the hot blue solution, but not the copper, into the other pint jar.
Allow solution to
cool at room temperature. Discard the unreacted copper
pieces in the first jar.

5. Carefully pour away the liquid from the crystals. Crush crystals into a
powder with a
wooden rod or stick.

6. Add .5 cup (120 ml) of alcohol to the powder while stirring.

7. Filter the solution through a paper towel into a container to collect
the crystals. Wash
the crystals left on the paper towel three times, using
.5 cup (120 ml) portions of alcohol
each time.

8. Air dry the copper sulfate crystals for 2 hours.

Note: Drying time can be reduced to .5 hour by use of hot, not boiling, water
bath (see step
3).

Reclamation of RDX from C4 Sec. I, No. 15

Rdx can be obtained from C4 explosive with the sue of gasoline. It can be used
as a booster explosive for detonators (Sec. VI, No. 13) or as a high explosive
charge.

Materials Sources
——— ——-

Gasoline

C4 plastique

2 pint glass jars, wide mouth

water ——–|
|
ceramic or glass dish |
|
pan | optional, it may be air
| dried
heat source |
|
teaspoon |
|
cup |
|
tape ——–|

Procedure
———

1. Place 1.5 teaspoons (15 grams) of C4 in one of the pint jars. Add one cup
(240 ml) of
gasoline.

Note: These quantities can be increased to obtain more RDX. For example, use 2
gallons of gasoline per 1 cup of C4.

2. Knead and stir the C4 with the rod until the C4 has broken down into small
particles. Allow
mixture to stand for .5 hour.

3. Stir the mixture again until a fine white powder remains on the bottom of
the jar.

4. Filter the mixture through a paper towel into the other glass jar. Wash
the particles
collected on the paper twoel with .5 cup (120 ml) of
gasoline. Discard the waste liquid.

5. Place the RDX particles in a glass or ceramic disk. Set the dish in a
pan of hot water, not
boiling, and dry for a period of 1 hour.

Note: RDX can be air dried for 2 to 3 hours.

TACC (Tetramminecopper (II) Chlorate Sec. I, No. 16

TACC is a primary explosive that can be made from sodium chlorate, copper
sulfate and ammonia. This eplosive is to be used with a booster explosive such
as picric acid (Sec. I, No. 21) or RDX (Sec. I, No. 15) in the fabrication of
detonators (Sec. VI, No. 13).

Materials Sources
——— ——-

Sodium Chlorate Sec. I, No. 23, medicine

Copper sulfate Weed killer, hardware store,
Sec. I, No. 14

Ammonia hydroxide household ammonia, smelling
salts, water purifier

alcohol, 95%

wax, clay, pitch, etc.

water

bottle, narrow mouth (wine or coke)

bottles, wide mouth (mason jars)

tubing (copper, steel) to fit around
mouth bottle

teaspoon

improvised scale Sec, VII, No. 8

heat source

paper towel

pan

tape

cup

Procedure
———

1. Measure 1/3 teaspoon (2.5 grams) of sodium chlorate into a wide mouth
bottle. Add 10
teaspoons alcohol.

2. Place the wide mouth bottle in a pan of hot water. Add 1 teaspoon (4 g)
of copper sulfate
to the mixture. Heat for a period of 30 minutes just
under the boiling point and stir
occasionally.

Note: Keep away from flame. Keep volume constant by adding additional alcohol
approx. every 10 minutes.

3. Remove solution from pan and allow to cool. Color of solution will change
from a blue to a
light green. Filter solution through a paper towel into
another wide mouth bottle. Store until
ready for step 6.

4. Add 1 cup (250 Ml) of ammonia to the narrow mouth bottle.

5. Place tubing into neck of bottle so that it extends about 1.5 in (4 cm)
inside bottle.
Seal tubing to bottle with wax, clay, pitch, etc.

6. Place free end of tubing into the chlorate-alcohol-sulfate solution
(step 3). Heat bottle
containing ammonia in a pan of hot, but not boiling
water, for approx. 10 minutes.

7. Bubble ammonia gas through the chlorate-alcohol-sulfate solution approx. 10
minutes, until
the color changes from light gree to dark blue. COntinue
bubbling for another 10 minutes. />

Note: Mixture is now primary explosive, keep from flame.

8. Remove the solution from the pan and reduce the volume to about 1/3 of its
original volume
by evaporating in the open air or ina stream of air.

Note: Pour container into a flat container for faster evaporation.

9. Filter the solution through a paper towel into a wide mouth bottle to
collect crystals.
Wash crystals with 1 teaspoon of alcohol and set aside
to dry (approx. 16 hours) Drying time
can be reduced to 2 hours if a hot,
not boiling, water bath is used.

Note: Explosive is shock and flame sensitive. Store in a capped container.

HMTD Sec I, No. 17

HMTF is a primary explosive that can be made from hexamethylenetetramine,
hydrogen peroxide, and citric acid. This explosive is to be used with a
boosterr explosive such as picric acid (Sec I, No. 21) or RDX (Sec. I, No. 15)
in the fabrication of detonators (Sec VI, No. 13).

Materials Sources
——— ——-

Hexamethylenetetramine Drugstore under names of
urotropine, hexamine,
methenamine,
etc.
Army heat tablets (sterno?)

Hydrogen Peroxide 6% hair bleach or stronger

Citric Acid Drug or Food stores,
known as "sour salt"

Containers, bottles or glasses

paper towels

teaspoon

pan

water

tape

Procedure
———

1. Measure 9 teaspoons of hydrogen peroxide into a container

2. In 3 portions, dissolve 2.5 teaspoons of crushed hexamethylenetetramine
(hexa) in the
peroxide.

3. Keep the solution cool for 30 minutes by placing container in a pan of
cold water.

4. In 5 portions, dissolve 4.5 teaspoons of crushed citric acid in the hexa-
peroxide
solution.

5. Permite solution to stand at room temperatire until solid particles for at
the bottom of
the container.

Note: Complete precipitation will take place in 8-24 hours

6. Filter the mixture through a paper towel into a container to collect the
solid
particles.

7. Wash the solid particles collected in the paper towel with 6 teaspoons
of water by pouring
the water over them. Discard the liquid in the
container.

8. Place these explosives in a container and allow to dry.

Note: Handle dry explosive with great care. Do not scrape or handle it
roughly. Keep from open
sparks or flames. Store in a cool, dry place.

Potassium or Sodium Nitrite and Litharge (lead monoxide) Sec. I, No. 18

Potassium or sodium nitrate is needed to prepare DDNP (Sec. I, No. 19) and
litharge is required for the preparation of lead picrate (Sec. I, No. 20)

Materials Sources
——— ——-

Lead metal (small pieces or chips) Plumbing supply

Potassium or sodium nitrite Field grade (Sec. I, No. 2) or
drug store

Methyl (wood) alcohol

Iron pipe with end cap

Iron rod or screwdriver

Paper towels

2 glass jars, wide mouth

metal pan

heat source (hot coals or blow torch)

improvised scale (Sec VII, No.

cup

water

pan

Procedure
———

1. Mix 12 grams of lead and 4 grams of potassium or sodium nitrite in a jar.
Place the mixture
in the iron pipe.

2. Heat iron pipe in a bed of hot coals or with a blow torch for 30 minutes
to one hour.
(mixture will turn yellow)

3. Remove the iron pipe from the heat source and allow to cool. Chip out the
yellow material
formed in the iron pipe and place the chips in the glass
jar.

4. Add .5 cup (120 ml) of methyl alcohol to the chips.

5. Heat the glass jar containing the mixture in a hot water bath for approx.
2 minutes. Heat
until there is a noticeable reaction between chips and
alcohol; solution will turn darker. />

6. Filter themixture through a paper towel into the other glass jar. The
material left of the
paper towel is lead monoxide.

7. Remove the lead monoxide and wash it twice through a paper towel using
.5 cup of hot water
each time. Air dry before using.

8. Place the jar with the liquid (step 6) in a hot water bath (as in step 5)
and heat until
the alcohol is evaporated. The powder remaining in the jar
after evaporation is potassium or
sodium nitrite.

Note: Nitrite has a strong tendency to absorb water from the atmosphere and
should be stored
in a closed container.

DDNP Sec. I, No. 19

DDNP is a primary explosive used in the fabrication of detonators (Sec. I, No.
13). It is to be used with a booster explosive such as picric acid (Sec. I,
No. 21) or RDX (Sec. I, No. 15).

Materials Sources
——— ——-

Picric acid Sec. I, No. 21

Flowers of sulfur drug store

lye (sodium hydroxide) Red devil(tm) sink unstopper

sulfuric acid, diluted motor vehicle batteries

Potassium or sodium nitrite Sec. I, No. 18

Water

2 glass cups, pyrex

stirring rod (glass or wood)

Improvised scale Sec VII, No. 8

teaspoon

tablespoon

eyedropper

heat source

containers

tape

Procedure
———

1. In one of the glass cups, mix .5 gram of lye with 2 tablespoons (30ml) of
warm water.

2. Dissolve 1 teaspoon (3 grams) of picric acid in the water-lye mixture.
Store until ready
for step 5.

3. Place .25 teaspoon (1ml) of water in the other glass cup. Add .5 teaspoon
(2.5 grams) of
sulfur and 1/3 teaspoon (2.5 g) of lye to the water.

4. Boil solution over heat source until color turns dark red. Remove and
allow solution to
cool.

5. In three portions, add this sulfur-lye solution to the picric acid-lye
solution (step 2);
stir while pouring. Allow mixture to cool.

6. Filter the mixture through a paper towel into a container. Small red
particles will
collect on the paper. Discard the liquid in the container.

7. Dissolve the red particles in .25 cup (60 ml) of boiling water.

8. Remove and filter the mixture through a paper towel, as in step 6.
Discard the particles
left on the paper.

9. Using an eyedropper, slowly add the sulfuric acid to the filtered solution
until it turns
orange-brown.

10. Add .5 teaspoon (2.5 g) more sulfuric acid to the solution. Allow the
solution to cool to
room temperature.

11. In a separate container, dissolve .25 teapsoon (1.8 g) of potassium or
sodium nitrite in
1/3 cup (80 ml) of water.

12. Add this solution in one portion, while stirring, to the orange-brown
solution. Allow the
mixture to stand for 10 minutes. The mixture will
turn light brown.

Note: Mixture is now primary explosive. Keep from sparks and flames.

13. Filter the mixture through a paper towel. Wash the particles left on the
paper with 4
teaspoons (20 ml) of water.

14. Allow paricles to dry, approx. 16 hours. Drying time can be reduced to
two hours if a hot
(not boiling) water bath is used. See Sec. I, No. 16.

Note: Explosive is flame and shock sensitive. Store in a capped container.

Preparation of lead picrate Sec. I, No. 20

Lead picrate is used as a primary explosive in the fabrication of detonators
(Sec. VI, No. 13). It is to be used with a booster exlosive such as picric
acid (Sec. I, No. 21) or RDX (Sec. I, NO. 15).

Materials Sources
——— ——-

Litharge (lead monoxide) Sec. I, No. 18 or plumbing
store

Picric acid Sec. I, No. 21

Wood alcohol (methanol) Paint remove, some antifreezes

wooden or plastic rod

dish or saucer (china or glass)

teaspoon

improvised scale Sec. VII, No. 8

containers

Flat pan

Heat source (Optional)

Water (optional)

Procedure
———

1. Weigh 2 grams each of picric acid and lead monoxide. Place each in a
separate
container.

2. Place 2 teaspoons (10 ml) of the alcohol in a dish. Add the picric acid
to the alcohol and
stir with the wooden or plastic rod.

3. Add the lead monoxide to the mixture while stirring.

Note: Mixture is now primary explosive, keep from spark or flame.

4. Continue stirring the mixture until the alcohol has evaporated. The
mixture will suddenly
thicken.

5. Stir mixture occasionally (to stop lumps from forming) until a powder is
formed. A few
lumps will remain.

Note: Be very careful of dry material forming one the inside of the container.

6. Spread this powdered mixture, the lead picrate, in a flat pan to air dry.

Note: If possible, dry the mixture in a hot, not boiling, water bath for a
period of two hours.

Preparation of Picric Acid from asprin Sec. I, No. 21

Picric acid can be used as a booster explosive in detonators (Sec. VI, No. 13),
a high explosive charge, or as an intermediate to preparing lead picrate (Sec.
I, No. 20) or DDNP (Sec. I, No. 19)

Materials Sources
——— ——-

Aspirin tablets (5 grains per tablet) drugstore, kmart

alcohol, 95% pure

Sulfuric acid, concentrated (boil until
white fumes appear)

potassium nitrate (Sec. I, No. 2)

Water

paper towels

cleaning jar, 1 pint

rod (glass or wood)

glass containers

ceramic or glass dish

cup

teaspoon

tablespoon

pan

heat source

tape

Procedure
———

1. Crush 20 aspirin tablets in a glass container. Add 1 teaspoon of water
and work into a
paste.

2. Add approx. 1/3 to 1/2 cup of alcohol (100 ml) to the aspirin paste; stir
while pouring. />

3. Filter the alcohol-aspirin solution through a paper towel into another
glass container.
Discard the solid left on the paper towel.

4. Pour the filtered solution into a ceramic or glass dish.

5. Evaporate the alcohol and water from the solution by placing the dish into
a pan of hot
water. White powder will remain in the dish after
evaporation.

Note: Water in pan should be at hot bath temperature, not boiling, approx. 160
degrees to 180 degrees F. It should not burn the hands.

6. Pour 1/3 cup (80 ml) of concentrated sulfuric acid into a canning jar. Add
the white powder
to the sulfuric acid.

7. Heat canning jar of sulfuric acid in a pan of simmering hot water bath for
15 minutes; then
remove jar from the bath. Solution will turn to a
yellow-orange color.

8. Add 3 level teaspoons (15 g) of potassium nitrate in three portions to the
yellow-orange
solution; stir vigorously during additions. Solution will
turn red, then back to a
yellow-orange color.

9. Allow the solution to cool to ambient or room temperature while stirring
occasionally. />

10. Slowly pour the solution, while stirring, into 1.25 cup (300 ml) of cold
water and allow
to cool.

11. Filter the solution through a paper towel into a glass container. Light
yellow particles
will collect on the paper towel.

12. Wash the light yellow particles with 2 tablespoons (25 ml) of water.
Discard the waste
liquid in the container.

13. Place particles in ceramic dish and set in a hot water bath, as it step 5,
for 2 hours. />

Double Salts Sec. I, No. 22

Double salts is used as a primary explosive in the fabrication of detonators
(Sec. VI, No. 13). It can be made in the field from silver (coins), nitric
acid, calcium carbide, and water.

Materials Sources
——— ——-

Nitric acid (90%) Sec. I, No. 4

Silver metal (silver coin, 5/8 in. in diameter)

Calcium carbide (acetylele or calcium carbide
lamps)

rubber and glass tubing (approx. 1/4 in. inside
diameter)

paper towels

heat resistant bottles or ceramic jugs, 1 to 2 qt.
capacity, and one cork to fit. (Punch hole in cork
to fir tubing)

teaspoon *aluminum, stainless steel or wax-coated)
or equivalent measure

glass container

heat source

long narrow jar (olive jar)

tape

water

alcohol

Procedure
———

1. Dilute 2/25 teaspoons of nitric acid with 1.5 teaspoons of water in a
glass container by
adding the acid to the water.

2. Dissolve a silver coin (a silver dime) in the diluted nitric acid. The
solution will turn
to a green color.

Note: It may be necessary to warm the container to completely dissolve the
silver coin. Take the usual precautions when working with acid!

3. Pour solution into a long narrow (olive) jar and place it in a bottle of
hot water.
Crystals will form in the solution; heat until crystals
dissolve.

4. While still heating and after crystals have dissolved, place 10 teaspoons
of calcium
carbide in another glass bottle and add 1 teaspoon of water.
After the reaction has started
add another teaspoon of water. Then set
up as shown.

—————————————————- <- rubber

//————————————————–\\ tubing
glass ||<-tubing continues
into jar (olive) ||
tubing>>||___ __||__

| | | | | || |<-cork
| |olive | | ______|| || ||______
| | jar | | | || |
| | w/ | | | || |
| |silver| | | || |
| | mix _______|____ acetylene bubbles glass tubing>|| |
| | / | | | || |
| |______| <-water here (hot) | || |
|__________________| |calcium carbide & |
| water |
Heat source here
|____________________|

5. Bubble acetylene through the solution for 5 to 8 minutes. A brown vapor
will be given off
and white flakes will appear in the silver solution.

6. Remove the solver solution from the heat source and allow it to cool.
Filter the solution
through a paper towel into a glass container. Green
crystals will collect on the paper.

7. Wash the solids collected on the paper towel with 12 teaspoons of alcohol.
The solid
material will turn white while the solvent in the container
will have a green color.

8. Place the white solid material on a clean paper towel to air dry.

Note: Handle dry explosive with great care. Do not scrape or handle it
roughly. Keep from sparks or flame. Store in a cool, dry place.

Sodium Chlorate Sec. I, No. 23

Sodium chlorate is a strong oxidizer used in the manufacture of explosives. it
can be used in place of potassium chlorate (see Sec. I, No. I).

Materials Sources
——— ——-

2 carbon or lead rods (1 in. diameter x dry cell batteries (2.5 in.
5 in. long) diameter x 7 in. long) or
plumbing supply store

salt, or ocean water grocery store or ocean

sulfuric acid, diluted motor vehicle batteries

motor vehicle

water

2 wires, 16 gauge (3/64 in. diameter approx.)
6 ft. long, insulated

gasoline

1 gallon glass jar, wide mouth (5 in. diameter x
6 in. high, approx.)

sticks

string

teaspoon

trays

cup

heavy cloth

knife

large flat pan or tray

Procedure
———

1. Mix .5 cup of salt into the one gallon glass jar with 3 liters (3 qts) of
water.

2. Add 2 teaspoons of battery acid to the solution and stir vigorously for 5
minutes.

3. Strip back about 4 in. of insulation from both end of the two wires.

4. With knife and sticks shape 2 strips of wood 1 x 1/8 x 1.5. Tie the wood
strips to the lead
or carbon rods so that they are 1.5 inches apart.

___________ ___________
| | | |
|\ | | /|
| \ | | / |
|
\–|==========================|–/ |
| /–|==========================|–\ |
| / | ^ | \
|
|/ | ^ | \|
| | ^ | |
|\ | wood sticks | / |
| \ | | / |
| \
|==========================| |
| |==========================| |
| | | |
| |
<–1.5 in. apart –> | |
|_________| |_________|

5. Connect the rods to the battery in the motor vehicle with the insulated
wire.

6. Submerge 4.5 in. of the rods into the salt water solution.

7. With gear in neutral position start the vehicles engine. Depress the
accelerator approx.
1/5 of its full travel.

8. Run the engine with the accelerator in this postition for 2 hours; then;
shut it down for 2
hours.

9. Repeat this cycle for a total of 64 hours while maintaining the level of
the acid-salt
water solution in the glass jar.

Note: This arrangement employs voltages which may be dangerous to personnel.
Do not touch the bare wire leads while the engine is running.

10. Shut off the engine. Remove the rods from the glass jar and disconnect
wire leads from
the battery.

11. Filter the solution through the heavy cloth into a flat pan or tray,
leaving the sediment
at the bottom of the glass jar.

12. Allow the water in the filtered solution to evaporate at room temperature
(approx. 16
hours). The residuew is approx 60% or more sodium chlorate
which is pure enough to be used as
an explosive ingredient.

Mercury Fulminate Sec. I, No. 24

Mercury fulminate is used as a primary explosive in the fabrication of
detonators (Sec. VI, No. 13). It is to be used with a booster explosive such
as picric acid (Sec. I, No. 21) or RDX (Sec. I, No. 15).

Materials Sources
——— ——-

Nitric Acid (90%) 1.48 gr. field grade (Sec. I, No. 4) or
industrial metal processors

mercury thermometers, old radio
tubes

ethyl (grain) alcohol (90%)

filtering material

teaspoon measure (.25, .5, and 1 teaspoon
capacity) aluminum, stainless steel, or
wax coated

heat source

clean wooden stick

clean water

glass containers

tape

styringe

Procedure
———

1. Dilute 5 teaspoons of nitric acid with 2.5 teaspoons of clean water in a
glass container by
adding the acid to the water.

2. Dissolve 1/8 teaspoon of mercury in the diluted nitric acid. This will
yield dark red
fumes.

Note: It may be necessary to add water, one drop at a time, to the
mercury-acid solution in order to start reaction. Also take usual precautions
when handling acid.

3. Warm 10 teaspoons of the alcohol in a container until the alcohol feels
warm to the inside
of the wrist.

4. Pour the metal-acid solution into the warm alcohol. Reaction should start
in less than 5
minutes. Dense white fumes will be given off during
reaction. As time lapses, the fumes will
become less dense. Allow 10
to 15 minutes to complete reaction. Fulminate will settle to
bottom.

Note: This reaction generates large quantities of toxic, flammable fumes. The
process must be conducted outdoors or in a well ventilated area, away from
sparks or flames. Do not inhlale fumes unless you like death.

5. Filter the solution through a paper towel into a container. Crystals may
stick to the side
of the container. If so, tilt and squirt water down the
sides of the container until all the
material collects on the filter paper.

6. Wash the crystals with 6 teaspoons of ethyl alcohol.

7. Allow these to dry.

Note: Handle dry explosives with great care. Do not scrape or handle it
roughly. Keep away from sparks or open flame. Store in a cool dry place.

Sodium Chlorate and sugar or aluminum explosive Sec. I, No. 25

An explosive munition can be made from sodium chlorate combined with granular
sugar, or aluminum powder. This explosive can be detonated with a commercial
#8 or Military J2 blasting cap.

Materials Sources
——— ——-

sodium chlorate Sec. I, No. 23

granular sugar food store

aluminum powder paint store

wooden rod or stick

bottle or jar

blasting cap

steel pipe (threaded on one end)

end cap and tape

measuring container

Procedure
———

1. Add three volumes (cups, quarts, etc) sodium chlorate to one volume
aluminum powder, or
two volumes of granular sugar, in bottle or jar.

2. Mix ingredients well by stirring with the wooden rod or stick.

How to Use
———-

1. Wax blasting cap, pipe and end cap.

2. Thread end cap onto pipe.

3. Pour munition into pipe.

4. Insert and tape blasting cap just beneath surface of mixture.

Note: Confining the open end of the pipe will add to the effectiveness of the
explosive.

Acetone/Peroxide Explosive Sec. I, No. 26

Materials Sources
——— ——-

Hydrogen Peroxide Drug store, Hair Bleach

Acetone Hardware, drup stores

Sulfuric Acid Clear battery acid boiled until
white fumes appear

Eye dropper or styringe with glass tube

Graduated cylinder (cc or ml) or other
measuring device

Thermometer (0-100 C)

Glass containers

Large pan

Ice and salt

Water

Paper towels

Procedure
———

1. Measure 30 ml of acetone and 50 ml of hydrogen peroxide into a glass
container and mix
thoroughly.

2. Cool the acetone/peroxide mixture by placing its container in a larger one
containing a
mixture of ice, salt and water.

Note: Because of the lighter inner container being buoyant in the larger outer
container, it is necessary to secure it so that it will not fall over into the
ice, salt, and water mixture.

3. Cool the acetone/peroxide mixture to 5 degrees C.

4. Add 2.5 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid to the acetone/peroxide mixture
slowly. drop by
drop, with the use of an eye dropper. Stir the mixture
during the addition of the sulfuric
acid with a thermometer, keeping the
temperature between 5-10 degrees C., stop adding the
sulfuric acid and
continue stirring until the temp. drops again to 5 degrees C., then

continue adding the sulfuric acid.

__
| |<-eye dropper w/ concentrated
sulfuric acid
|__|
\ \ | <- thermometer
| \ \ | |
| \ \ | |
| \-\ |
|
| | | | |
acetone/peroxide mix —–|-> | | |
| | | <-|—ice, salt, and
water mix.
| \——-/ | maintain 5-10 degrees C.
————————-
/>
5. After all the sulfuric acid has been added, continue stirring the mixture
for another five
minutes.

6. Let the acetone/peroxide/sulfuric acid mixture stand in the ice/water/salt
bath or remove
the inner container and place it in an ice box for 12-24
hours.

7. After 12 hours, white crystals of acetone peroxide will precipitate out of
the once clear
solution. Precipitation should be completed after 24 hrs.

Note: At this point the mixture is a primary explosive. Keep away from shock,
friction and flame.

8. Filter the mixture through a paper twoel into a container to collect all
of the solid
particles.

9. Wash the solid particles collected in the paper towel with small amounts
of ice cold water
poured over them. Discard the liquid in the container.

10. Place these explosive crystals in a container and allow to dry.

Note: Handle the dry explosive with great care. Do not scrape or handle it
roughly. Keep away from sparks or open flame. Store in a cool, dark, dry
place.

How to Use
———-

Acetone peroxide is a powerful initiator and can be used by itself as the main
filler when making homeade detonators. Using 2.5" lengths of brass or copper
tubing with one end sealed shit with either solder or epoxy resin, begin by
partiallly filling the tube with acetone perroxide and compressing with a
loading press (Sec. VI, No. 13, Vol. 2 and Sec. II, No. 12, Vol 3). Continue
This process until the explosive is within 1/2" of the top. Cap the open end
tightly with a cork or wood stopper. When ready to use, remove stopper and
insert time fuse. Seal around fuse and tube insert into the main charge to a
depth of 2". The caps will detonate most of the explosives shown in this
volume.

Note: These detonators should be used withing 7 days of thier manufacture and
should be stored in a cool, dry place.

Bullseye (low-high) Explosive Sec. I, No. 27

A highly effective and powerful low – high explosive can be obtained by simply
using a fast burning double-based, smokeless pistol powder called Bullseye.
This propellant is used to reload pistol and revolver cartridges and contains a
sensitive mixture of nitroglycerin and nitrocellulose.

Materials Sources
——— ——-

Bullseye smokeless pistol powder Gun and reloading stores

Compound detonator or time fuse Five finger discount at many
fine National Guard bases

How to Use
———-

1. To use as a low explosive, simply pour the powder into a pipe with end caps
and ignite with
a time fuse. When ignited, the pipe will explode into many
fragments traveling at a velocity
of approximately 600 fps.

2. To use as a high explosive, simply pour the powder into a pipe with end
caps, insert a
compound detonator with a fuzing mechanism and detonate.
When detonated, the pipe will
fragment into many small fragments traveling
at a velocity in excess of 20,000 fps.

Note: Because of the unique mixture of nitroglycering with nitrocellulose
(double-base), Bullseye is one of the few propellants that can be detonated
with a blasting cap. When detonated, it is a powerful as military TNT and
should be used to defeat hard targets.

HTH/Naptha Explosive Sec. I, No. 28

An explosive munition can be made from granular calcium hypoclorite (HTH,
swimming pool bleach) and petroleum naptha. This explosive can be detonated
with a compound detonator.

Materials Sources
——— ——-

Granular calcium hypoclorite 70%, HTH Bleaching agent, swimming pool
swimming pool purifier. supply houses, better K-marts.

Benzine (petroleum naptha) Hardware and paint stores,
paint thinner, cleaning fluid.

Mixing container (bowl, bucket, etc)

Stirring rod (Wood)

Measuring container (cup, tablespoon)

Storage container (jar, can) with tight lid

Blasting cap, compound detonator required

Strong pipe with end caps

Procedure
———

1. Measure out 32 parts by volume, 27 parts by weight, of calcium hypoclorite
(CH) to 1 part
by volume, 1 part by weight, of petroleum naptha into the
mixing container.

2. Stir until thoroughly mixed with wooden stirring rod.

How to Use
———-

1. This mixture forms a low power/brisant high explosive which should be used
under strong
confinement and only as an explosive filler for antipersonnel
fragmentation bombs. To use,
spoon this mixture into an iron or steel pipe
which has an end cap on one end.

2. Insert a compound detonator just beneath the surface of the explosive and
screw the other
end cap on with a hole drilled through for the fuse.

Note: Take care not to tamp or shake the mixture in the pipe. If the mixture
becomes tightly packed, one cap will not be sufficient to detonate the
explosive. Store in tightly sealed container.

Potassium Permangante/Aluminum Explosive Sec. I, No. 29

An explosive munition can be made from potassium permanganate and aluminum
powder. This explosive can be detonated with a compound detonator.

Materials Sources
——— ——-

Potassium permanganate chemical and photography
stores

fine aluminum bronzing powder paint stores

measuring container (cup, tablespoon, etc.)

storage container with tight lid

two flat boards (one should be comfortably
held in the had such as a square block or
rolling pin and one very large, ie.,
36" x 36"

blasting cap, compound detonator required

strong pipe with end caps

Procedure
———

1. Spread a handful at a time of potassium permanganate on the large flat
board and rub
vigorously with the other flat board or rolling pic until
the large particles are crushed into
a very fine powder (approx. 10
minutes per handful)

2. Measure 2 volumes (cups, tablespooons, etc.), 60% by weight, of
potassium permanganate with
three volumes, 40% by weight, of fine
aluminum bronzing powder into a mixing container with a
tight fitting
lid.

3. Secure the lid tightly and shake the mixture for approx. five minutes
to mix thoroughly. />

4. Store the explosive in the mixing container until ready to use. Before
using, shake the
contents once again to remix any settled particles.

How to Use
———-

1. This mixture forms a low power/brisant high explosive which should be used
under strong
confinement and only as an explosive filler for antipersonnel
fragmentation bombs. To use,
spoon this mixture into an iron or steel
pipe which has an end cap on one end.

2. Insert compound detonator just beneath the surface of the explosive and
screw the other end
cap on with a hole drilled through for the fuse.

Potassium Chlorate/Sulfur Explosive Sec. I, No. 30

An impact sensitive explosive can be made from potassium chlorate and sulfur.
This explosive can be used as a filler when making reusable primers (Sec. III,
No. 5, Vol. 1) or as a fill when making impact sensitive fragmentation bombs.

Materials Sources
——— ——-

Potassium chlorate Drug stores, chemical supply
houses

Sulfur Drug Stores

Measuring container

Mixing container

Two flat boards (same as No. 29)

Procedure
———

1. Spread a handful at a time of potassium chlorate on the large flat board
and rub vigorously
with the other flat board or rolling pin until the
large particles are crushed into a very
fine powder (approx. 10 minutes
per handful).

Note: Clean and dry both boards before using again with a different substance.

2. Repeat this process using the sulfur.

3. Measure 7 parts by volume, 11 parts by weight, of powdered potassium
chlorate and 1 part by
volume, 1 part by weight of powdered sulfur into the
mixing container.

Note: This mixture forms an extremely shock sensitive explosive, especially
between two metal surfaces. Reasonable care should be exercised from this
point on.

4. Gently tumble the mixing container between the hands until the ingredients
are thoroughly
mixed together.

5. Place the mixed explosive in a tightly sealed storage container until ready
to use.

Note: Do not store the mixed explosive for more than five days before using.
KEEP THIS EXPLOSIVE DRY AT ALL TIMES.

How to Use
———-

1. This explosive can either be used to either fill primer caps (Sec. III, No.
5, Vol. 1),
reloading ammunition, or it can be used to make the following
palm sized fragmentation
bombs:

A. Obtain a short section of threaded water pipe with two end caps.

B. Thread on end cap onto the pipe and fill 1/4 full with steel ball
bearings.

C. Fill the remaining space with potassium chlorate/sulfur mixture and
screw the
remaining end cap on.

/*_*_*_*_*_*\ <-threaded end cap
|_———_|
|–O-O–|
actual water
pipe -> |—–O-| "O’s" represent ball bearings
_|-O—–|_ "-’s"
represent the mixture
|_-_-_O_-_-_|
\***********/ <-threaded end cap

Note: Maintain a loose mixture between the ball bearings and explosive
by not over
tamping the explosive into the pipe. This will allow the
ball bearings to move and impact
together.

D. Gently tumble the pipe between the hands to mix the ball bearings with
the
explosive.

E. When ready to use, throw against or near the target area.

Potassium chlorate/Kerosene explosive Sec. I, No. 31

An effectove explosive munition can be made by simply pouring kerosene into
powdered potassium chlorate. This explosive can be detonated with a compound
detonator.

Materials Sources
——— ——-

Potassium chlorate Drug, chemical supply stores

Kerosene Hardware stores

Measuring container

Mixing container

Stirring rod

Storage container with tight lid

Two flat boards (same as No. 30)

Compound detonator

Procedure
———

1. Spread a handful at a time of potassium chlorate on the large flat board
and rub vigorously
with the other flat board or rolling pin until the large
particles are crushed into a very
fine powder (approx. 10 minutes per
handful)

2. To produce the explosive, all that is required is to pour 1 part by volume,
10% by weight,
of kerosene into 9 parts by volume, 90% by weight, of
potassium chlorate. Stir until
completely mixed, then store in a sealed
conatainer until ready to use.

3. Another method in producing the explosive is to lightly pre-pack a selected
charge
container with powdered potassium chlorate. When ready to use,
simply pour the pre-measured
amount of kerosene into the potassium chlorate
and allow to soak in for five minutes before
using.

How to use
———-

1. This mixture forms a low power/brisant high explosive which should be used
under strong
confinement and only as an explosive filler for antipersonnel
fragmentation bombs and light
blasting operations.

2. to use, spoon this mixture into an iron or steel pipe which has an end cap
on one end. />

Note: Store mixed explosive in mixing container or load into pipe.

3. Insert compound detonator just beneath the surface of the explosive and
screw the other end
cap on with a hole drilled through for the fuse.

4. The pipe can be pre-filled with potassium chlorate and when ready to use,
simply pour in
the kerosene, allow to soak for five minutes, then detonate.

Potassium chlorate/Notrobenzene Explosive Sec. I, No. 32

A moise explosive can be made from solid potassium chlorate and liquid
nitrobenzene. This explosive has medium to high power and brisance. It can be
used as a substitute for 50% ditching dynamite or flake TNT. This exlosive can
be readily detonated by a standard blasting cap (No. 6).

Materials Sources
——— ——-

Potassium chlorate Drug and chemical supply stores

Nitrobenzene Drug stores (oil of mirbane),
chemical supply houses

Measuring container

Mixing container

Storage container with tight lid

Two flat boards (from No. 31)

Blasting cap (No. 6)

Procedure
———

1. Use step one from No. 31 to pulverize the potassium chlorate.

Note: Nitrobenzene is extremely toxic and should be handled in well ventilated
areas. Harmful effects may result from swallowing, inhalation of vapors, or
contact with the skin or eyes. In case of accidental spilling, wash the
addected area immediately with large quantities of water.

2. To produce the explosive, all that is required is to pour 1 part by volume,
20% by weight
of nitrobenzene into 4 parts by volume, 80% by weight, of
powdered potassium chlorate. Stir
until completely mixed, then store
in a sealed container wintil ready for use.

3. Another effective method in producing the explosive is to tightly pre-pack
a selected
charge container with powdered potassium chlorate. When
ready for use, simply pour the
pre-measured amount of nitrobenzene into the
potassium chlorate and allow to soak for 3 to 3
minutes before using.

Note: An important factor to observe when pouring the nitrobenzene into the
potassium chlorate is to not allow the potassium chlorate to be disturbed after
it has been soaked with nitrobenzene. Whenever a liquid is poured into a
powdered substance, a natural "caking action" will result, producing a fairly
uniform density throughout the solid material. Since uniform density has a
direct overall effect on the explosive performance, it is important to first
pre-pack a rigid container with the potassium chlorate and then pour in the
nitrobenzene and allow it to soak in without stirring. This will produce a
high performance explosive. Mixing in a plastic bag will produce a low
performance exlosive.

How to Use
———-

1. This mixture forms a very powerful explosive that can be used for general
purpose blasting
and ditching operations. It is extremely sensitive to
detonation and can be initiated by
simple homemade detonators.

Nitromethane/Sawdust explosive Sec. I, No. 33

A simple nitromethane based explosive can be made by simply pouring
nitromethane into a container filled with screened sawdust. This explosive can
be detonated with a compound detonator.

Materials Sources
——— ——-

Nitromethane Chemical supply houses, hobby
shops (fuel for r/c cars)

Sawdust (fine)

Common window screen

Measuring container

Mixing container

Storage container

Compound detonator

Procedure
———

1. Using a common window screen as a sieve, place a handful of sawdust in the
center and shake
between the hands in a back and forth motion. Collect the
sawdust that passes through and
discard the rest. (do not force big pieces
through the screen)

2. Measure out 2 parts by volume, 20% by weight, of screened sawdust into a
mixing container.
Pour in 1 part by volume, 80% by weight, of liquid
nitromethane. Stir until completely
mixed.

3. Store in a sealed container until ready to use.

How to Use
———-

1. This mixture forms a medium power/brisant high explosive which should be
used under strong
confinement and as a filler for fragmentation bombs and
light blasting operations.

2. To use, spoon this mixture into an iron or steel pipe which has an end cap
on one end. />

3. Insert a compound detonator just beneath the surface of the explosive and
screw the other
end cap on with a hole drilled through for the fuse.

4. The pipe can be pre-filled with sawdust. When ready for use, simply pour
in the
nitromethane, then detonate.

Nitromethane/Ammonium Nitrate Explosive Sec. I, No. 34

A moist explosve can be made from solid ammonium nitrate fertilizer combined
with liquid nitromethane. This explosive has both high power and high brisance
and can be used as a direct substitute for TNT. This explosive can be readily
detonated by a blasting cap, No. 6 in strength. A compound detonator is not
required.

Materials Sources
——— ——-

Ammonium nitrate fertilizer (not less than Farm or feed store, or chemical
32% nitrogen) or pure supply house

Nitromethane Hobby stores, chemical supply
house

measuring container

mixing container

storage container w/ tight lid

Two flat boards (same as No. 30)

Blasting cap (No. 6)

Procedure
———

1. Spread a handful at a time of the fertilizer on the large flat board and
rub vigirously
with the other board or rolling pin until the large
particles are crushed into a fine powder
that looks like flour (approx. 10
minutes per handful)

Note: Proceed with steps 2 and 3 as soon as possible, since the powder may
moisture from the air and become spoiled.

2. To produce the explosive, all that is required is to pour 1 part by volume
or 2 parts by
weight of nitromethane into 3 parts by volume or 5 parts by
weight of powdered ammonium
nitrate. Stir until completely mixed, then
store in a sealed container until ready to use. />

3. Another effective method in producing the explosive is to tightly pre-pack
a selected
charge container with powdered ammonium nitrate. When ready
to use, simply pour the
pre-measured amount of nitromethane into the
ammonium nitrate and allow to soak in for 3 to 5
minutes before using.

Note: An important factor to observe when pouring the nitromethane into the
ammonium nitrate is to not allow the ammonium nitrate to be disturbed after it
has been soaked with nitromethane. Whenever a liquid is poured into a powdered
substance, a natural "caking action" will result, producing a fairly uniform
density throughout the solid material. Since uniform density has a direct
overall effect of the explosive performance, it is important to first pre-pack
a rigid container with ammonium nitrate and then pour in the nitromethane and
allow to soak without stirring. This will produce a high performance
explosive. Mixing in a plastic bag will produce a low performance explosive.

How to Use
———-

1. This explosive is one of the most powerful/brisant two component explosives
readily
available. Each component is perfectly safe to handle by itself.
However, when the two are
mixed together, they form a sensitive high
explosive that can be detonated with a standard
blasting cap.

2. This explosive mixture should be used to defeat hard targets, such as steel
and reinforced
concrete. It can also be used with special charges that
require high brisance, i.e., shaped
charges, platter charges, and SCIMP
charges.

Nitromethane Liquid explosive Sec. I, No. 35

A liquid explosive, that resembles water in appearance, can be made from
nitromethane and aqueous ammonia (household glass cleaner). This exposive is
22 to 24 more powerful that military TNT and can be detonated with a standard
blasting cap. However, to achieve maximum velocity, a compound detonator
should be used.

Materials Sources
——— ——-

Nitromethane chemical supply or hooby store
(racing fuel)

Aniline, ethylenediamine, aqueous ammonia Hardware stores, chemical
(non-detergent) supply, grocery store

measuring container (cup, pint, etc.)

blasting cap or compound detonator

Procedure
———

Note: Nitromethane is a common chemical reagent, and under normal conditions
cannot be made to detonate even if a strong detonator is used. However, if
certain ammonia-containing compounds (called sensitizers) are alled in small
percentages (5-6 %), then the sensitized nitromethane can be detonated with a
standard #8 blasting cap. The most effective sensitizers are aniline and
ethylenediamine. The most readily available sensitizer is common household
glass cleaner (aqueous ammonia).

1. To produce the explosive, simply pour the sensitizer into the nitromethane
and mix
thoroughly. One-half pic sensitizer will sensitize one gallon of
nitromethane.

2. The explosive can be premixed, or for safety’s sake, it can be mixed just
prior to use by
prefilling a charge container with nitromethane and then
adding the sensitizer when ready to
detonate.

How to Use
———-

1. This liquid explosive can be used whenever or wherever a liquid can be
used for
disguiseability. It can be poured directly into prefabricated
special charge containers, i.e.,
shape charges, platter charges, and SCIMP
charges, without special measures being taken to
maintain uniform densities
required for solid explosives to be effective.

2. To obtain the maximum efficiency, a compound detonator should be used for
initiation.
Reliability of initiation is increased by positioning and
immersing the detonator centrally
with respect to the wall of the
container. By centrally positioning and immersing the
detonator in the
liquid, the output energy of the detonator is transmitted to the

explosive instead of being partially dissipated through the wall of the
container.
/> do dont

"-" = cap

| – | -| |
| – | -| |
| – | -| | +++++++ +++++++

Fertilizer/hydrazine liquid explosive Sec. I, No. 36

A liquid explosive can be made from solid ammonium nitrate fertilizer combined
with liquid anhydrous hydrazine. This liquid explosive is more powerful and
brisant than C4 plastic explosive and can be used as a direct replacement for
C4. This explosive can be detonated with a blasting cap. However, to achieve
maximum velocity a compound detonator should be used.

Materials Sources
——— ——-

Ammonium nirtate fertilizer (not less than farm or feed store or
32% nitrogen) chemical supply store

anhydrous hydrazine chemical supply house

large mixing container

glass stirring rod

storage container

blasting cap, compound detonator

Procedure
———

Note: Anhydrous hydrazine is classified as as corrosive and is flammable.
Keep away from spark or flame. It is also mildly toxic and should be handled
in well ventilated areas. Affected areas of skin should be washed with large
quantities of water.

1. Pour into the mixing container an amount of anhydrous hydrazine equal to
the amount of
explosive required.

2. Ammonium nitrate (prilled or powdered) is then added, a teaspoon at a
time, to the
hydrazine in the mixing container.

Note: The mixing container should be fairly large (5x the volume of the
hydrazine) because the chemical reaction between the ammonium nitrate and the
hydrazine is extremely effervescent and can easily bubble over the top.

3. Because of the effervescent reaction, the ammonium nitrate should be added
very slowly so
as not to create accidental over-flowing. With each
addition of ammonium nitrate, the person
doing the mixing should wait for
the initial reaction to subside, then stir the solution until
all of the
ammonium nitrate dissolves into it.

Note: The reaction between the ammonium nitrate and hydrazine liberates large
volumes of poisonous gas. The person doing the mixing should be upwind of the
mixing process so as not to breath the poisonous fumes.

4. The mixing process is continued until the ammonium nitrate no longer
dissolves into the
solution, even after five minutes of stirring, and a
small amount reamains undissolved at the
bottom of the mixing container.
This undissolved ammonium nitrate does not affect the
performance of the
explosive.

5. After the mixing process is complete, what will remain will be a clear
liquid explosive
more powerful and brisant that any military explosive.

Note: The mixed explosive has a lower toxicity of the hydrazine. However, it
is recommended that the same handling precautions be observed.

6. To make an even more powerful explosive, 20% aluminum powder (100 mesh or
finer) can be
added to the ammonium nitrate before mixing with the
hydrazine (it does not react with the
other two ingredients), or ir can
be added after the mixing process is complete.

How to Use
———-

1. This explosive is the most powerful/brisant of the two complement explosive
systems
available. It can be used whenever or wherever a liquid can be
used for disguiseability. />

2. It can be poured directly into prefabricated special charge containers,
i.e., shape,
platter and SCIMP charges, without special measures being
taken to maintain uniform densities
required by solid explosives to be
effective.

3. It has unique absorption and retention poperties which can be used to
create a liquid land
mine. The liquid explosive can be poured directly
into the ground, soaking into and blending
with the surrounding earth.
The pocket of explosive can be initiated by a conventional
electrically
or mechanically actuated detonator. These pockets of explosives have

remained detonable for four days in the ground, even when the soil was
soaked due to rainy
weather.

/—-wet explosive in ground.
____________ / ____________
\ \_/ </ /
\
_____/____
\_______/ \-detonator placed here

Explosive paper Sec I, No. 37

An excellent absorption explosive can be made from a solution of PETN (the
center filler of detonator cord), acetone, and mineral oil. When any non-gloss
paper, i.e., newspaper, paperback books, corrugated cardboard, etc., is dipped
in this explosive solution and then removed and allowed to dry, the paper will
retain its original texture and appearance along with a microcrystaline high
explosive incorporated into the fiber content of the paper. This produces a
disguised explosive that can be carried into a target area without arousing
suspicion.

Materials Sources
——— ——-

PETN detonating cord (primacord)

Acetone hardware stores

mineral oil drug stores

mixing container

pan or bucket larger than the mixing
container

large, flat pan, (cake pan)

sheets of newspaper, paperback books,
corrugated cardboard, etc.

Procedure
———

1. Using a razor blade, cut detonating cord lengthwise and remove the center
filler
(P.E.T.N.). Approx. .5 lb. of PETN can be removed per 100 ft.
of detonating cord.

2. Fill a canning jar 2/3 full of acetone and heat until mildly warm by
placing the canning
jar in a pan or bucket on heat source when it contains
the canning jar.

3. Add PETN to the acetone, a tablespoon a a time, while stirring with a
stirring rod. Stir
the solution until the PETN dissolves. Add more PETN
until it no longer dissolves into
solution, even after five minutes of
stirring. Approx. 1/3 lb. of PETN will dissolve in every
lb. of warm
acetone used.

4. Approx. 2% mineral should be added to the final solution. This mineral
oil will prevent the
crystals of PETN from recrystalizing to a noticeable
size when the acetone evaporates. The
mineral oil will also provide a
better texture to the paper when it is dry after the soaking
process.

5. Pout this solution into a large, flat pam, then fill the pan with even
sheets of a non
gloss paper. It rolled newspaper is used, unroll it and
lay it out evenly in the an. Allow the
paper to soak for 30 minutes.

6. After soaking for 30 minutes, remove the paper and allow to dry for at
least 24 hours. DO
NOT DRY IN AN OVEN. After the papr has had time to
dry, 50 % of its weight will consist of a
microcrystaline high explosive
intimately incorporated into the fiber content of the paper. />

How to Use
———-

1. To use simply insert a blasting cap ot compound detonator into the paper
and detonate. />

2. If a rolled newspaper is used, the detonator and fusing mechanism can
be concealed in the
center of the roll and easily carried into the
target area and left where destruction is
desired. An average size
newspaper has the explosive equivalent of several sticks of
dynamite.

RDX Sec. I, No. 38

RDX is a powerful/brisant high explosive that can be made from
hexamethylenetetramine and strong nitric acid. It can be used as a booster
explosive for compound detonators, as a main explosive filler, and for the
manufacture of explosive flour (Sec. I, No. 39)

Materials Sources
——— ——-

Hexamethylenetetramine (hexamine) Drug stores under names of
urotropine, hexamin,

methenamine, etc.

strong nitric acid (d 1.50) Sec. I, No. 4

Acetone drug store

weighing scale with at least gram
accuracy or measuring spoons

graduated cylinder (cc or ml) or
measuring cups

thermometer 20 degrees – 100 degrees C or
68 degrees – 212 degrees F

several large quart canning jars

two large basins or bowls made of metal
or other similar material that can be
heated

paper towels

Procedure
———

1. Place .5 cup, 120 ml or cc of nitrix acid in a large canning jar and bring
the temperature
to between 20 and 30 degrees C. (68-86 F) By putting the
jar in a basin of cold water. If
necessary, swirl the canning jar around
the basin of cold water to bring the temperature down,
while being careful
not to allow any water to splash into the acid.

Note: Maintain the thermometer in the acid throughout the reaction while
carefully noting and controlling the temperature by alternating the jar between
the basin of cold water and the basin of hot water. The thermometer can be
used as a stirring rod if the solution is gently stirred.

2. Weigh or measure out 70 grams by weight, 18 teaspoons by volume, of the
hexamine and start
adding the salt-like hexamine slowly, 1/2 teaspoon
at a time, during a 15 minute period.
Maintain the temp. between 20 – 30
degrees C, while stirring gently with the thermometer.
Control the temp.
by dipping the canning jar in and out of the basin filled with cold
water.

3. When all of the hexamine is dissolved in the acid, heat the solution to
55 degrees C, by
placing the canning jar in a bsin of hot water. Maintain
tis temperature for about 10
minutes.

4. After heating the solution for 10 minutes, remove the canning jar from
the basin of cold
water and place it in the basin of cold water. Cool the
canning jar to 20 degrees C. (68
degrees F).

5. When the temperature has reached 20 degrees C, add 3 cups (750 ml) of
cold water to the
solution and a white salt will appear.

Note: The white salt is RDX and should be handled with great care from now on.

6. Filter the acid/water/RDX solution through a paper towel covering the
mouth of another
jar.

7. Wash the RDX crystals off the paper towel and into a canning jar, using
an additional 3
cups of fresh, cold water. Add a teaspoon of sodium
carbonate to neutralize the acid and stir
rapidly for 2-3 minutes, then
filter again.

8. The crude product can be dried out on the paper towel filter. It is
suitable for fairly
immediate use, or it can be purified.

9. To purify RDX, fill a quart canning jar 2/3 full of acetone. Heat the
acetone by placing
the jar in a basin of hot simmering water, then add
RDX, a tablespoon at a time, until it
completely dissolves in the
acetone.

10. After the maximem amount of RDX has been dissolved into the hot acetone,
allow the
solution to cool to room temperature, then let stand for one
more hour.

11. The RDX will form a salt once again. Filter the RDX and spread it out on
a paper towel as
before.

12. The purified RDX should be stored in a clean canning jar with a tight
fitting lid. It can
be stored for months without loss of effectiveness.

Note: RDX is not too sensitive to heat and shock, but is fairly sensitive to
friction. Care should therefore be taken when the explosive is to be packed or
when the dry explosive is handled. Using the amounts of chemicals listed in
this article, the yield of RDX should be about 1/5 oz.

Explosive Flour Sec. I, No. 39

An explosive that looks and bakes like ordinary wheat flour can be made from a
mixture flour and RDX. It can be used in many different forms as an explosive:
in its dry powder form, moistened with water and used as a dough like plastic
explosive, or by using special recipes it can be baked into pancakes or
bisuits.

Materials Sources
——— ——-

RDX Sec. I, No. 15
Sec. I, No. 38

Flour grocery store

large sheet of wood, and a rolling pin
(wood must be flat)

Procedure
———

1. Place a tablespoonful of RDX crystals on the large sheet of wood. Using
a rolling pic,
crush the crystals into a fine powder, the consistency of
flour.

Note: Use only a rolling pic, not a block of wood. It is important to crush
the RDX crystals into a fine powder rather than using friction between to
rubbing surfaces.

2. Mix 80% by weight of powdered RDX with 20% by weight of flour in a canning
jar with a tight
fitting lid by shaking for five minutes.

3. The mixed explosive flour can be stored in the sealed mixing conainer for
long periods of
time before using. It can also be disguised by storing
it in an original bag of flour.

How to Use
———-

1. This explosive flour is more powerful and brisant that military TNT and
is easiest to
detonate in its powdered form. A standard blasting cap
provides sufficient shock to set it
off.

2. To use as a plastic explosive, mix 4 parts by weight of flour to 1 part
by weight of water.
This forms a dough that has very desirable plastic
qualities which can be used to mold itself
around vertain types of
targets in the same manner as military C4 plastic explosive. A
compound
detonator must be use to insure positive detonation.

3. The following recipes make it possible to bake the powdered explosive into
pancakes or
biscuits:

A. For pancakes, use this recipe:

3 cups explosive flour
2 teaspoons of baking powder
.5 teaspoon of salt
1
cup of milk
1 egg
2 tablespoons of melted lard

Note: This pancake mixture can be left of the griddle until it completely chars
with no unusual effects, thus demonstrating the stability of the mixture to
heat.

B. For explosive biscuits, use this recipe:

3 cups explosive flour
2 teaspoons of baking powder
3/8 teaspoon of salt
2
teaspoons of lard
88 ml or cc of water

4. The finished pancakes and biscuits look, feel, and taste like ordinary
pancakes and
biscuits. However, they are highly toxic, and SHOULD NOT
BE EATEN. Before using these baked
items as an explosive, they must be
moistened and kneaded into a plastic masss to remove the
air spaces.
They may be exploded in the same manner as the plastic form.

Pipe Hand Grenade Sec. II, No. I

Hand grenades can be made from a piece of iron pipe. The filler can be plastic
or granular military explosive, improvised explosive, or propellant from
shotgunn or small arms ammunition.

Materials Sources
——— ——-

Iron pipe, threaded ends, 1.5" to 3" in
diameter, 3" to 8" long

2 end caps

explosive or propellant

nonelectric blasting cap (comm. or military)

fuse cord

hand drill

pliers

Procedure
———

1. Place blasting cap on one end of fuse cord and crimp with pliers.

Note: To find out how long the fuse cord should be, check the time it takes
for a known length of fuse to burn. If 12 inches burns in 30 seconds, a six
inch cord will ignite the grenade in 15 seconds.

2. Screw pipe cap to one end of pipe. Place fuse cord with blasting cap into
the opposite end
so that the blasting cap is near the center of the pipe.

Note: If plastic explosive is to be used, fill pipe before inserting blasting
cap. Push a round stick into the center of the exlosive to make a hole and
then insert blasting cap.

3. Pour exlposive or propellant into pipe a little at a time. Tap the base
of the pipe
frequently to settle filter.

4. Drill a hole in the center of the unassembled pipe cap large enough
for the fuse cord to
pass through.

5. Wipe pipe threads to remove any filler material. Slide the drilled pipe
cap over the fuse
and screw handtight onto pipe.

Nail Grenade Sec. II, No. 2

Effective fragmentation grenades can be made from a block of TNT or other
blasting explosive and nails.

Materials Sources
——— ——-

Block of TNT or other blasting explosive

Nails

Non-electric military blasting cap

fuse cord

tap, string, wire or glue

Procedure
———

1. If an explosive charge other than a standard TNT block is used, make
a hole in the center
of the charge for inserting the blasting cap. TNT
can be drilled with relative safety. With
plastic explosives, a hole can
be made by pressing a round stick into the center of the
charge. The hole
should be deep enough that the blasting cap is totally within the

explosive.

2. Tape, tie or glue on or two rows of closely packed nails to sides of
explosive block.
Nails should completely cover the four surfaces of the
block.

3. Place blasting cap on one end of the fuse cord and crimp with pliers.

Note: Use same method in Sec. II, No. 1 to determine burning lengths of fuse.

4. Insert the blasting cap in the hole in the block of explosive. Tape or tie
fuse cord
securly in place so that it will not fall out when the grenade
is thrown.

Alternate Use
————-

An effective directional anti-personnel mine can be made by placing nails on
only one side of the explosive block. For this case, an electric blasting cap
should be used.

Wine Bottle Cone Charge Sec. II, No. 3

This cone charge will penetrate 3 to 4 in. of armor. Placed on an engine
conpartment, it will disable a tank or other vehicle beyond immediate repair.

Materials Sources
——— ——-

Glass wine bottle with cone shaped false
bottom

Plastic or castable explosive

blasting cap

gasoline or kerosene (small amount)

string

adhesive tape

Procedure
———

1. Soak a piece of string in gasoline or kerosene. Double wrap this
string around the wine
bottle approx. 3 in. above the top of the cone.

Note: Adding a small amount of motor oil to the gasoline or kerosene will
improve results.

2. Ignite the string and allow to burn for 1 to 2 minutes. Then plunge the
bottle into cold
water to crack it. The top half can now be easily removed
and discarded.

3. If plastic explosive is used:

A. Pack explosive into the bottle a little at a time compressing with
a wooden rod.
Fill the bottle up to the top.

B. Press a .25 in. wooden dowel .5 in into the middle of the top of
the explosive
charge to form a hole for the blasting cap.

4. If TNT or other castable explosive is used:

A. Break explosive into small pieces using a wooden mallet or non-
sparking metal
tools. Place pieces in a tin can.

B. Suspend this can in a larger container which is
partly filled with
water. A stiff wire or stick pushed through the smaller can will

accomplish this.

Note: The inner can must not rest on the bottom of the outer container.

C. Heat the containr on a electric hot plate or other heat source. Stir
the explosive
frequently with a wooden stick while it is melting.

Note: Keep area well ventilated while melting explosive. Fumes may be
poisonous.

D. When all the explosive has melted, remove the inner container and
stir the molten
explosive until it begins to thicken. Diring this
time the bottom half of the wine bottle
should be placed in the
container of hot water. This will pre-heat the bottle so that it

will not crack whenthe explosive is poured.

E. Remove the bottle from how water and dry thoroughly. Pour molten
explosive into the
bottle and allow to cool. The crust which
forms on top of the charge during cooling should be
broken with a
wooden stick and more explosive added. Do this as often as necessary

until the bottle is filled to the top.

F. When explosive has completely hardened, bore a hole for the blasting
cap in the
middle of the top of the charge about .5 in. deep.

How to Use
———-

1. Place blasting cap in the hole in the top of the charge. If non-electric
blasting cap is
used, be sure cap is crimped around fuze and fuze is
long enough to provide safe delay.

2. Place the charge so that the bottom is 3-4 in. from the target. This can
be done by taping
legs to the charge or any other convenient means as
long as there is nothing between the base
of the charge and the target.

3. If electric blasting cap is used, connect blasting wires to firing
circuit.

Note: The effectiveness of this charge can be increased by placing it inside a
can, box, or similar container and packing sand or dirt between the charge and
the container.

Grenade/Tin can land mine Sec. II, No. 4

This device can be used as a land mine that will explode when the trip wire is
pulled.

Materials Sources
——— ——-

Hand grenade having side safety lever

Sturdy container, open at one end, that is just
large enough to slip over the grenade and its
safety lever.

Strong string or wire

Procedure
———

1. Fasten one piece of string to the closed end of the container, making
a strong connection.
This can be done by punching 2 holes in the can,
looping through them, and tying a knot.

2. Tie free end of this string to bush, stake, fencepost, etc.

3. Fasten another length of string to the grenade such that it cannot
interfere with the
functioning of the ignition mechanism of the
grenade.

4. Insert grenade into container.

5. Lay free length of string across path and fasten to stake, bush, etc.
The string should
remain taught.

stake container w/ grenade stake
_______
| trip wire | |

|———————————— |——————|
| ______| |

How to Use
———-

1. Carefully withdraw safety pin by pulling on ring. Be sure safety lever
is restrained during
this position during this operation. Grenade will
function in normal manner when trip wire is
pulled.

Note: In area where concealment is possible, a greater effect may be obtained
by suspending the grenade several feet above ground, as illustrated below (yuk)

\ \ | |
\ \ | |
\ \ | tree |
|\ \| |
| \ | |
| \| |
| |
|
_|_ | |
Grenade -> | | | |
|___| | |
| | |
| | |
stake
trip wire | | |
|———————————————-/\ | |
| / \————-

knot

Mortar Scrap mine Sec. II, No. 5

A directional mine that can be placed in the path of advancing troops.

Materials Sources
——— ——-

Iron pipe, appprox. 3 ft. in length and 2-4 Scrapyard, steel company
in. in diameter and threaded on at least Salvaged artillery case
one end

Threaded cap to fit pipe

black powder or salvaged artillery powder
(.5 lb total)

Electrical igniter (commercial SQUIB or
improvised ignitor from Sec. VI, No. 1.
Safety or improvised fuse may also be used

Small stones, about 1 in. in diameter or small
size scap; about 1 lb. total

rags for wadding, each 20 in. x 20 in.

paper or bag

battery and wire

stick (non-metallic)

Note: Be sure pipe has no cracks or flaws

Procedure
———

1. Screw threaded cap onto pipe.

2. Place propellant and igniter in paper or rag and tie package with string
so contents will
not fall out.

3. Insert packaged propellant and igniter into pipe until package rests
against threaded cap
leaving firing leads extending from open end of pipe.

4. Roll rag until it is about 6 in. long and the same diameter as pipe.
Insert rag wadding
against packaged propellant ignitor. With caution, pack
tightly using stick.

5. Insert stones and/or scrap metal into pipe.

6. Insert second piece of rag wadding against stones and/or metal scrap.
pack tightly as
before.

explosive stones/scrap firing leads
rags rags

————————————————

|XXXXXX:::::::::(*&(*()(*&::::::::::::\\\\\\\\\\\

|XXXXXX:::::::::()&*%%^$*)::::::::::::\\\\\\\\\\\\\

———————————————— \\
\\

How to Use
———-

1. Bury pipe in ground with open end facing the expected path of the enemy.
The open end may
be covered with cardboard and a thin layer of dist or
leaves as camoflage.

2. Connect firing leads to battery and switch. Mine can be remotely fired
when needed or
attached to a trip device placed in path of advancing
troops.

Note: A NON-ELECTRICAL ignition system can be substituted for the electrical
system as follows:

1. Follow above procedure, substituting safety fuse for igniter.

2. Light safety fuse when ready to fire.

Coke bottle shaped charge Sec.II, No. 2

This shaped charge will penetrate 3 in. of armor. It will disable a vehicle if
placed on the engine or engine compartment.

Materials
———

Glass coke bottle 6.5 oz. size

plastic or castable explosive, about 1 lb.

blasting cap

metal cylinder, open at both ends, about 6 in. long and 2 in. inside diameter
(should be heavy walled for best results)

plug to fit mouth of coke bottle (rags, metal, wood, paper, etc.)

Non-metal rod about .25 in. in diameter and 8 in. or more in length

tape or string

2 tin cans if castable explosive is used (see Sec. II, No. 3)

Procedure
———

1. Place plug in mouth of bottle.

2. Place cylinder over top of bottle until bottom of cyliner rests of widest
part of bottle.
Tape cylinder to bottle. Container should be straight on
top of bottle.

3. If plastic explosive is used:

A. Place explosive in cylinder a little at a time tamping with rod until
cylinder is
full.

B. Press the rod about .5 in. into the middle of the top of the exlosive
charge to form
a hole for the blasting cap.

4. If castable explosive is use, follow procedure of Wine Bottle cone charge,
Sec. II, No. 3,
step 4, a thru f.

How to Use
———-

Method 1. If electrical cap is used.

1. Place blasting cap in hole in top of explosive.

Note: Do not insert cap until ready to detonate the charge.

2. Place bottom of coke bottle flush against the target. If target is
not flat and horizontal,
fasten bottle to target by any conveneint means,
such as by placing tape or string around
target and top of bottle. Bottom
of bottle acts as stand-off.

Note: Be sure that base of bottle is flush against target and that there is
nothing between the target and the base of the bottle.

3. Connect leads from blasting cap to firing circuit.

Method II. If non-electrical cap is used.

1. Crimp cap around fuse.

Note: Be sure there is enough fuse to allow a safe delay.

2. Follow steps 1, 2 and Notes of Method I.

3. Light fuse when ready to fire.

Cyndrilical Cavity shaped charge Sec. II, No. 7

A shaped charge can be made from common pipe. It will penetrate 1.5 in of
steel, producing a hole 1.5 in in diameter.

Materials
———

Ir on or steel pipe, 2 to 2.5 in. in diameter and 3 to 4 in. long.

Metal pipe, .5 to .75 in in diameter and 1.5 in. long, open at both ends.
Pipe should be as thin as possible.

Blasting cap

Non-metallic rod, .25 in. in diameter

Plastic or castable explosive

2 metal cans of different sizes ——|
|
stick or wire | only if castable explosive is used
|
heat source ——|

Procedure
———

1. If plastic explosive us used:

A. Place larger pipe on flat surface. Hand pack and tamp explosive into
pipe. Leave
approx. .25 in. space at the top.

B. Place rod in center of explosive. Enlarge hole in explosive to
diameter and length
of small pipe.

C. Insert small pipe into hole.

Note: Make sure that there is direct contact between the explosive and the
small pipe. Hand pack if necessary.

D. Make sure that there is .25in. empty space aboce small pipe.
Remove pipe if
necessary.

E. Turn large pipe upside down, (the whole object) and pus rod .5 in.
into center of
opposite end of explosive to form a hole for the
blasting cap.

Note: Do not insert cap until ready to fire shaped charge.

2. If TNT or other castable explosive is used:

A. Follow procedure, Sec. II, No. 3, step 4, Parts A, B, C, including
Notes.

B. When all explosive has melted, remove the inner container and stir
the molten
explosive until it begins to thicken.

C. Place large pipe of flat surface. Pour explosive into pipe until
it is 1.75 in. from
the top.

D. Place small pipe in the center of large pipe so that it rests on top
of exlosive.
Holding small pipe in place, pour explosive around
small pipe until explosive is .25 in. from
top of large pipe.

E. Allow explosive to cool. Break crust that forms on top of the charge
during cooling
with a wooden stick and add more explosive. Do this
as often as necessary until explosive is
.25 in. from top.

F. When explosive has completely hardened, turn pipe upside down and
bore a hole for
the blasting cap in the middle of the top of the
charge about .50 in. deep.

How to Use
———-

Method I. If an electrical cap is used.

1. Place blasting cap in hole made for it.

Note: Do not insert cap until ready to use.

2. Place other end of pipe flush against target. Fasten pipe to target by
any convenient
means, such as by placing tape or string around target and
on top of pipe. If target is not
flat and horizontal.

Note: Be sure that base of pipe is flush against target and that there is
nothing between the charge and the base of the pipe.

3. Connect leads from cap to firing circuit.

Method II. If non-electrical cap is used.

1. Crimp cap around fuse.

Note: Be sure that there is enough fuse to allow safe delay.

2. Follow steps 1, 2 and notes of Method I.

3. Light fuse when ready to fire.

Funnel shaped charge Sec. II, No. 9

An effective shaped charge can be made using various commercial funnels. See
table for penetration capabilities.

Materials
———

Container (sode or beer can, etc.), approx. 2.5 in. in diameter x 5 in. long

Funnels (glass, steel or aluminum) 2.5 in. in diameter

Wooden rod or stick, .25 in. in diameter

tape

blasting cap (electrical or non-electrical)

sharp cutting edge

explosive

Procedure
———

1. Remove the top and bottom from can and discard.

2. Cut off and throw away the spout of the funnel(s).

Note: When using 3 funnels (see table), place the modified funnels together as
tight and as straight as possible. Tape the funnels together at the outer
ridges.

3. Place the funnels in the modified can. Tape outer ridges to hold funnels
to can.

4. If plastic explosive is used, fill the can with the explosive using small
quantities, and
tamp with wooden rod or stick.

Note: If castable explosive is used, refer to step 4 of Sec. II, No. 3.

5. Cut wodden rod to lengths 3 inches longer than the standoff length. (see
table) Position
three of there rods around the explosive filled can and
hold in place with tape.

Note: The position of the rods on the container must conform to the standoff
dimensions to obtain the penetrations given in the table.

________________
_ | |
| | <-|—-explosive
3| –| |–
i| – | /\
| – rods (legs) held on with tape
n| – | / \ | -
| – | / funnel \ | -
– -
|/____________\| -
– - – -
| – - –
– - – -
^
|>standoff

Table

Funnel Material | No. of funnels | Standoff (ins.) | Penetration |
——————————————————————
| | | | |
| glass | 1 | 3.5 | 4 |
| | | | |
|—————————————————————–
| | | | |
| steel | 3 | 1 | 2.5 |
| | | | |
|—————————————————————–
| | | | |
| aluminum | 3 | 3.5 | 2.5 |
| | | | |
|—————————————————————–
| If only one steel or aluminum funnel is available: |
|—————————————————————–
| | | | |
| steel | 1 | 1 | 1.5 |
| | | | |
|—————————————————————–
| | | | |
| aluminum | 1 | 1 | 1.5 |
| | | | |
|—————————————————————–

6. Make a hole for blasting cap in the center of the explosive with rod
or stick.

Note: Do not place blasting cap in place until the funnel shaped charge is
ready to use.

How to Use
———-

1. Place blasting cap in the hole in top of the charge. If non-electric
cap is used, be sure
cap is crimped around fuse and fuse is long enough
to provide safe delay.

2. Place (tape if necessary) the Funnel Shaped Charge on the target so that
nothing is between
the base of charge and target.

3. If electric cap is used, connect cap wires to firing circuit.

Linear shaped Charge Sec. II, No. 10

This shaped charge made from construction materials will cut through nearly 3
inches of armor depending opon the liner used. (see table)

Materials
———

Standard structural angle or pipe (see table)

wood or cardboard container

hacksaw —–|
| only is pipe is used
vise —–|

wooden rod, .25 in. in diameter

explosive

blasting cap

tape

Table

| Type | material | liner size | Standoff | Penetration|
————|—————–|————-|————|————|
| angle | steel | 3×3 legs x | 2 in. | 2.75 in |
| | | .25 in web | | |
|———–|—————–|————-|————|————|
| angle | aluminum | 2×2 legs x | 5.5 in. | 2.5 in. |
| | | 3/16 web | | |
|———–|—————–|————-|————|————|
| pipe half | aluminum | 2 diameter | 2 in. | 2 in. |
| section | | | | |
|———–|—————–|————-|————|————|
|pipe half | copper | 2 diameter | 1 in. | 1.75 in. |
|section | | | | |
|———–|—————–|————-|————|————|

Procedure
———

Note: These were the only linear shaped charges of this type that were found to
be more efficient than the ribbon charge.

Ribbon Charge: No standoff; just place on target.

1. If pipe is used:

A. Place the pipe in the vise and cut pipe in half lengthwise. Remove the
pipe half
sections from the vise.

B. Discard one of the pipe half sections, or save for another charge.

2. Place angle or pipe half section with open end face down on a flat surface.

3. Make container from any material available. The container must be as wide
as the angle or
pipe half section, twice as high, and as long as the
desired cut to be made with the
charge.

4. Place container over the liner (angle or pipe half section) and tape liner
to container. />

5. If plastic explosive is used, fill the container with the explosive
ising small
quantities, and tamp with wooden rod or stick.

Note: If castable explosive is used, refer to step 4 of Sec. II, No. 3.

6. Cut wooden rod to lengths 2 inches longer than the standoff length (see
table). Postition
the rods at the corners of the explosive filled
container and hold in place with tape.

Note: The position of the rods on the container must conform to standoff and
penetration dimensions given in the table.

7. Make a hole for blasting cap in the side od the container .5 in. above the
liner and
centered with the wooden rod.

Note: Do not place blasting cap inside Linear Shaped Charge until ready to
detonate.

How to Use
———-

1. Place blasting cap into hole on the side of the container. If non-electric
cap is used, be
sure cap is crimped around fuse and fuse is long enough.

2. Place (tape if necessary) the LSC on the target so that nothing is between
base of charge
and target.

3. If electric cap is used, connect cap wires to firing circuit.

Soap Dish charges Sec. II, No. 11

Using common plastic soap dishes, two special charges can be prepared. One is
a miniature claymore mine, and the other being a miniature Pertoleum Oil/Liquid
charge for the destruction of small P.O.L. storage containers and vehicle gas
tanks.

Materials
———

Soap dishes consisting of two separate halves, the bottom flat half fitting
into the to bevelled half (standard soap dish)

Any homemade high explosive

blasting cap

.25 in. diameter steel ball bearings and epoxy resin (wristrocket ammo)

theremite incediary (Sec. V, No. 20), or other metalized incediary mixture

small alnico 5 horseshoe or double sided adhesive tape, or both

Procedure
———

1. To produce a miniature claymore mine, follow the steps below.

A. Separate the two halves of the soap dish.

B. Fill the bottom half with any powerful homemade explosive.

C. Fill the top half to a depth of 3/4 inch with 1/4 inch diameter
steel ball bearings
held together with a light coating of epoxy
resin.

D. Insert the bottom half into the top half and secure in place with tape.

2. To produce a miniature P.O.L. charge, follow the steps below:

A. Separate the two halves of the soap dish.

B. Fill 1/2 inch of the bottom half with a metalized incendiary such as
thermite or
aluminum granules.

C. Fill the remaining half of the bottom half with any powerful
homemade
explosvie.

D. Fill 1/2 to the top half with the same homemade explosive.

E. Insert the bottom half of the soap dish into the top half and secure
in place with
tape.

How to Use
———-

1. Claymore mine:

A. Cover the bottom of the bottom half of the mine with double-sided
adhesive tape or
attach one horseshoe magnet to each side of the
top half and secure in place with epoxy resin.
Both attachment
methods can be combined so the mine can be attached to almost any

surface area.

B. Using a sharp pointed rod, 1/4 inch in diameter, puncture a hole
in the rear center
of the bottom half.

C. Insert a detonator into this hole and attach a fuzing mechanism to
the sides of the
soap dish and connect to the detonator.

D. Attach the bottom of the soap dish, vertically, to any surface
facing the target
area, within a 45 degree angle from either side
of the center line of the soap dish. For
attachment, use either
the tape or magnets, or both if possible.

2. P.O.L. charge:

A. Cover the bottom of the bottom half of the mine with double sided
adhesive tap, or
attach one horseshoe magnet to each side of the
top half and secure in place with epoxy resin.
Both attachment
methods can be combined so the mine can be easily be attached to
almost
any surface area.

B. Using a sharp pointed rod, 1/4 inch in diameter, puncture a hole in
the rear certer
of the top half of the soap dish.

C. Insert the detonator into this hole and attach a fuzing mechanism to
sides of the
soap dish and connect to the detonator.

D. Using magnets, tape, or both, attach the bottom of the soap dish to
any surface
containing petroleum products, i.e., 55 gallon storage
drums, rail and truck P.O.L. shipping
cars, gas tanks of vehicles, etc.

Mini-Compound detonators Sec. II, No. 12

Miniature compound detonators can be made from empty .22 Magnum sheel casings,
a quantity of secondary (booster) explosive, a smaller quantity of primary
explosive, an ignition charge and a loading press. These powerful miniature
detonators are used in the construction of various type of miniature hand
grenades, i.e., cigarette lighter hand grenade, shotgun shell impact grenade
and explosive candles.

Materials
———

Empty .22 magnum shell casings or copper, brass or aluminum tubing 1/4 inch in
diameter, 1 inch long, and closed at one end.

A quantity of secondary explosive, i.e., RDX (Sec. I, No. 15) or (Sec. I, No.
38), PETN (the center filling of Primacord (detonating cord)

A quantity of primary explosive, i.e., mercury fulminate (Sec. I, No. 24), HMTD
(Sec. I, No. 17), acetone peroxide (Sec. I, No. 28)

An ignition charge or either black powder (Sec. I, No. 3) or small arms
propellant

A loading press, or materials to construct a loading press as illustrated

Procedure
———

1. If a loading press is not available, construct on as illustrated below:
(this is going to
be touchy, please stick with me)

5 feet
|——————————————————–|
_
metal
plate for slot | |
6 ins. \ | | <- 1 inch thick wooden barricade
|——-| \ | | /> _ \ _| | /> slot for lever /- 2×4
__| |__________________||
|/_______________________________ / wooden
|_|o|___________________
________________________________|| lever
| | | -| | o———
| | 2 || | ___peep hole
|
| | | |-|_/ (safety glass) |
| | _ /1 |-| |
_| |_ ___ / _| |_ |
|_____|
|_|_| |_____| |

/————-^——————–\ | <- Rope
|_____________|____________________| |
| | | | | |
| | | | | |
| | | | | <-table |
| | detonator | | __|__
|_| |_| weight-> |___|

Notes: 1. Block- wood (10" x 10" x 6" or steel (6" x 6" x 6") with
3/8"
diameter hole 1" deep.

2. 1/4" O.D. hard brass or wood ram

Note: The loading press is provided with a protective barrier and a remote
system of rope and pulley operation to provide operator safety during loading.
Only wood and spark-proof (brass) metals are used near the exlosive.

CAUTION: Making detonators is hazardous business that can be made safe by
taking certain precautions. Operations must be performed slowly and with great
care. Cleanliness is important. Dirt in the explosive or containers will
greatly increase sensitivity to detonation by impact or shock. If possible the
air should be moist. Boil a bucket of water in the room before starting to
work if the air is dry. When inserting and removing the ramrod and when
carrying primary explosives, use tongs or pliers. If possible, uuse only one
hand at a time when handling the primary explosive in the loading process and
wear protective goggles at all times.

2. With the arrangement shown on the preceeding page, the pressure applied
to the exlosive
inside the shell casing will be about 200x the force
applied to the end of the lever. That
is, a 20 pound weight pulling at
at the handle will compress the explosive with a press of
4,000 lbs. of
pressure per sq. in. This pressure is required for the best sensitivity

of mercury fulminate. A 2.5 gallon bucket of water weighs about 20 lbs.

3. Light a candle and let two drops of wax drop into the bottom of each
shell casing before
using.

4. Allow the wax to cool, then insert the shell casing into the loading
block.

5. Fill the shell casing to a depth of 1/4 in. with RDX or PETN secondary
explosive. Gently
insert the ram.

6. Compress the explosive slowly and evenly by pulling on the rope until the
weight leaves the
ground. Remove the ram carefully.

7. Continue the adding and pressing operation until a column of secondary
explosive 5/8 inch
high has been pressed into the 1 inch long shell
casing.

8. Add a small quantity of primary explosive on top of the secondary
explosive and gently
insert the ram.

9. Continue the adding and pressing operation until an additional 1/4 inch
column of primary
explosive has been pressed on top of the 5/8 inch column
of secondary explosive.

10. Gently compress the remaining 1/8 inch of empty space with an igniter of
either black
powder or smokeless pistol powder.

11. Seal the top with either tape or wax paper held in place with a small
rubber band until
ready to use.

Note: When inserting the detonator into a selected hand grenade, be careful not
to tilt the detonator and let the igniter charge spill out. Instead, place the
grenade over the detonator and lower it until the detonator is sealed into
place, then invert the genade and fill with explosive.

Cigarette Lighter Hand Grenade Sec. II, No. 13

An effective and powerful miniature hand grenade can be made from a Zippo brand
cigarette lighter, any homemade explosive and a mini-compound detonator (Sec.
II, No. 12). This explosive device can be used either as a hand grenade or a
boobytrap.

Materials
———

Any powerful homemade explosive, i.e., potassium chlorate/nitrobenzene (Sec. I,
No. 32), ammonium nitrate/nitromethane (Sec. I, No. 34), etc.

Mini-Compound detonator (Sec. II, No. 12)

Black powder (Sec. I, No. 3)

Zippo cigarette lighter, approx. 2 1/4" length x 1 1/2" Diam., or larger

Copper and brass tubing 9/32" diameter x 12" long

hacksaw

small mixing bowl

epoxy resin

Procedure
———

1. Obtain a zippo lighter with outer case dimensions of approx. 2 1/4 long x
1 1/2" wide
x 1/2" deep. Separate the inner lighter mechanism from the
outer casing and remove all
the cotton wadding.

2. Remove the cotton ignition wick and convert it into a black powder time
fuse by the
following steps:

A. Place a couple of tablespoons of black powder (sec. I, No. 3) into a
small mixing
bowl and add enough water until it looks like a heavy
oil.

B. The cotton wick is placed in the oil-like mixture and stirred
for 15 minutes so that
it becomes saturated with the black
powder mix.

C. The cotton wick is removed and hung to dry for four hours.

D. This mixture fuse was found to have a burning rate of 1.3 seconds
per inch.

Note: Be sure and test burning time on a similar wick before using. If a new
Zippo lighter is used, it is necessary to use the lighter approx. 25 times
before disassembling. This will make the lighter appear used and will blacken
the cotton ignition wick which will help disguise the black powder time fuse
that will be reinserted.

3. Reinsert the cotton wick fuse through the wick hole and leave enough fuse
in the ignition
chamber so that it can easily bepulled from the igniter.

Note: Knot the end of the fuse inside the lighter sothat it won’t pull free
later when using.

4. Using a hacksaw, cut a one inch length from a 9/32" diameter piece
of copper or brass
tubing.

5. Insert this one inch tube over the wick hole and use a 1/8" layer of
epoxy resin or
other strong glue to seal in place.

6. Insert a mini-compound detonator (Sec. II, No. 12) into the holding
tube inside the
lighter.

Caution: The mini-compound detonator is a sensitive and extremely powerful
detonator and should be handled carefully at all times.

7. Fill the remaining space to within 1/8" of the bottom with any homemade
explosive
this manual.

Note: The explosive can be loaded in first, and when ready to use, simply
insert the detonator. When using potassium chlorate or ammonium nitrate for a
base explosive, load the cigarette lighter with either base explosive and
insert the detonator. When ready to use, simply pour in the liquid activator
of either nitromethane or nitrobenzene.

8. After filling to within 1/8" in. of the bottom with explosive, cut off a
1/8"
strip from the original cotton wadding and insert in the bottom of
the lighter to complete
the disguise.

How to Use
———-

1. To use as a hand grenade, simply pull out a length of fuse and ignite
with a separate
cigarette lighter or match.

2. To use as a boobytrap, insert the lighter, with a short fuse, into the
target area.

Shotgun shell impact grenade Sec. II, No. 14

An effective and powerful impact grenade can be made from a 12 gauge shotgun
shell, any homemade high explosive and a mini-compound detonator (Sec. II, No.
12). This explosive devise can be used as an impact grenade or as a boobytrap.

Materials
———

Any homemade explosive, i.e., potassium chlorate/nitrobenzene (Sec. I, No. 32),
ammonium nitrate/nitromethane (Sec. I, No. 34), etc.

Mini-compound detonator (Sec. II, NO. 12)

12 gauge shotgun shell

wood dowel or steel bar 11/16" in diameter and any length beyond 1/2"

hacksaw

drill w/ 1/4" bit

pieces of cloth, 12" x 12"

epoxy resin or strong glue

steel ball bearings 3/8" in diameter

electrical tape

Procedure
———

1. Either cut off or open up the forward end of any 12 gauge shotgun shell and
empty out the
shot, wadding, spacer and propellant. Retain the shell
casing.

2. In order for the mini-detonator to be over the center of the primer, a
detonator guide
cylinder has to be made from either a piece of bar
steel or a wooden dowel in the following
manner:

A. Using a hacksaw, cut a 1/2" length of 11/16" steel bar or wooden
dowel. />

B. Drill a 1/4" diameter hole in the center of the 1/2 long wood or
metal
cylinder.

Note: It is preferred that a steel cylinder be used in ot to lend more weight
to the base of the shell case.

3. After the guide cylinder is prepared, it is glued in place in the bottom
of the shotshell
case.

Note: Do not place any glue on the primer in the base of the shell casing.

4. The mini-compound detonator (Sec. II, No. 12) is the inserted, open end
down, into the
guide cylinder and glued in place.

Caution: The mini-compound detonator is a sensitive and extremely powerful
detonator and should be handled carefully at all times.

5. Fill the remaining space in the shotshell case with any homemade high
explosive in this
manual.

Note: When using potassium chlorate or ammonium nitrate for a base explosive,
load the shotshell case with either base explosive. When ready to use, simply
pour in the liquid activator of either nitromethane/nitrobenzene.

6. After the top of the shotshell has been resealed, tape a 3/8" steel ball
bearing in
place over the center of the primer in the base of the shell.

7. Cloth streamers (12" x 1/2") are then taped in place around the shotshell.
These
streamers lend stability in flight and insure bottom base impact with
the ground.

8. As a further refinement, nails can be taped around the shotshell case
with ntches, spaced
1/4" apart, down the length of the shell.

How to Use
———-

1. To use as a grenade, simply throw into the target area.

2. To use as a boobytrap, do not attach streamers or the ball bearing.
Simply insert the
shotshell case into the target area.

Platter Charge Sec. II, No. 15

An extremely effective directional charge can be made from a steel pipe cap,
any high explosive, and a tin can. This charge is effective against such
targets as transformers, generators, fuel storage containers and vehicles. It
can be fired horizontally or used as an improvised land mine and fired
vertically.

Materials
———

Steel pipe cap with a diameter between 1" and 24"

Tin can or other similar container with an inside diameter being the same as
the steel pipe cap

sheet of wood 1" thick

steel pipe cap, (between 1 – 2" in diameter) and a piece of pipe, (approx. 2"
in length

drill with 1/4" bit

Solid or liquid high explosive, i.e., nitromethane/ammonium nitrate explosive
(Sec. I, No. 34), fertilizer/hydrazine explosive (Sec. I, No. 36), or
nitromethane liquid explosive (Sec. I, No. 35)

blasting cap

Procedure
———

1. Obtain a steel pipe cap. An ideal diameter would be 6 – 12". However,
pipe caps as
small as 1" may be used.

2. Locate a coffee can or similar container with an inside diameter the same
as the outside
diameter of the pipe cap. Remove the lid (do not throw
away) and empty the contents of the
can and clean it out.

3. Place the pipe cap in the bottom of the can with the concave side
facing the bottom of the
can.

4. An exact center priming disk must be made from a 1" thick piece of wood in
the
following manner:

A. Using the coffee can lid from step 2 as a template, place it on a
sheet of wood
1" thick and mark the outside diameter with a pencil.

B. Using a saw, cut the disk out of the sheet of wood. After cutting
the disk out,
drill a 1/4" hole through the exact center. If this
priming disk is to be used as a
packing tool for the solid explosive,
center sink the 1/4" center hole to fit the head of
a 1/4" bolt.
Set the disk aside for later use.

5. If a solid explosive is being used. the following constructon technique
should be used: />

A. Using the center priming disk prepared from step 4, a uniform packing
tool can be
prepared by the addition of a 1/4" nut and bolt, a steel
pipe cap and a piece of pipe. />

B. Carefully pack an amount of solid explosive equal to the weight of
the pipe cap
around and behind the pipe cap using the packing tool.
For example, if the pipe cap weighs
five pounds, use five pounds of
solid explosive.

Note: For this charge to be effective, it is necessary to uniformly pack the
explosive behind the pipe cap with no air gaps.

C. After the explosive has been loaded into the tin can behind the
inverted pipe cap,
disassemble the packing tool and place the priming
disk over the ompressed explosive. Seal the
inside edges with glue,
wax, or tar. The discarded pipe handle and cap can be used later to

form a pipe hand grenade (Sec. II, No. 1)

Note: The wood priming disk prepared in step 4 has three ain uses: as a packing
tool for solid explosive, as a lid to keep the explosve from falling out of the
conainer, and as a template that insures exact rear center priming of the
charge.

D. After the priming disk has been sealed in place, insert a blasting cap
through the
center hole and into the solid explosive to a depth of
3/4". Seal around the cap with
glue, wax or tar.

6. When using a liquid explosive, an easier construction method may be
used:

A. When ready to use, simply pour in an amount of liquid exlosive equal
to the weight
of the pipe cap and seal in place the wood priming disk
prepared instep 4.

B. Insert a blasting cap through the center hole and into the liquid
explosive to a
depth of 3/4". Seal around the blasting cap with
glue, wax, or tar.

7. If a coffee can was used in the construction, there should still be
sufficient room inside
the can for a fuzing mechanism, i.e., a wrist
watch delay timer with battery (Sec. VI, No. 4),
or a small remote
control radio reciever.

———————————–
|
*&*)+(_)(*_&)(_*&)(*&&)(*&*(&() |
| *&(@#*_#() coffee
()&*^)^67^& |
| ^&%^$&^$#%^T*T*&%^*&%$&*^%^*&%^ |

|———————————| <- false bottom

&& = bulb initia.| () () () () |&&| /———-\ | <- batteries in series w/ />
XXX = sealant-> |************XXX|c |XXX***********| wrist watch timer
|***************|a
|**************| <- wood packing disk
|***************|p |**************|

|///////////////| |//////////////|
|///////////////| |//////////////|

|///////////////|__|//////////////|
|/////////////////////////////////|
|///////////
explosive /////////|
|/////////////////////////////////|

|//////———————\\\\\\|
|//////| pipe cap |\\\\\\|
|//////| |\\\\\\|

|_____/ \_____|
|| ||
||_______________________________||

———————————–

Note: A second disguise can be achieved by inseting a third disk covering the
fizing mechanism, sealing around the edges of the disk and then pouring coffee
into the can until full. Place the plastic sealing lid over the top of the can
to complete the disguise.

How to Use
———-

1. The unique capability of this charge is that it can be fired through a
chain link fence and
into its target without any loss of effectiveness.
At close range the platter will penetrate
about one inch of mild steel
plate. It is effective at ranges up to 100 feet or more, although
at
this distance penetration is reduced to about 1/4" of mild steel at best
and
sighting becomes a problem unless the target is a very large one.

2. Upon detonation, the platter is projected forward at tremendous velocity.
The air in front
of the platter is compressed and becomes superheated. It
is this mass of air, moving at
extremely high velovity, that first
penetrates the target. The platter follows and may indeed
strike the
target, but research has shown that the primary destruction effect is
created
by the compacted high velocity air column.

SCIMP (Special Charge Improvised Projectile) charge Sec. II, No. 16

Using materials that are readily available in its construction, this mine will
defeat almost any target that is mad-made, i.e., tanks, armored cars,
buildings, etc. This charge is four times for effective than any other
directional charge, to include shaped and platter charges. This directional
charge utilizes two special techniques to achieve its effectiveness; one is
sandwiching an explosive charge between two steel plates, and the other
involves detonating this charge from all sides at the same time (periphreal
detonation).

Materials
———

oil filter cap or other similar steel dish

No. 6 sheet metal screws, 1" long

steel plate, 1/8" thick

Solid or liquid high explosive, i.e., fertilizer/nitromethane,
fertilizer/hydrazine liquid explosive, and nitromethane liquid explosive

wood or styrofoam sheets, 1" thick

blasting cap

coffee can or other similar container

drill with 1/4" bit

Procedure
———

1. Obtain a concave steel dish, 3" to 12" in diameter: for example, by
removing the
center retaining bolt from any two piece oil filter assy.
and using the oil filter cap (an oil
filter from a 1951-53 chevy, with
a diameter of 5 1/4" is ideal).

2. Plug the bolt hole in the center of the cap with wood, rubber, or cork
stopper.

3. Using the oil filter cap as a template, place it on a sheet of steel
1/8" thick and
mark the outside diameter with a pencil.

4. Using a hacksaw, cut the disk out of the plate.

5. Repear steps 3 and 4, cutting out two disks from a 1" thick sheet of wood
or
styrofoam.

6. Take the three disks (one steel and the other two wood or styrofoam) and
glue them together
with the steel disk on one side. Set aside for later
use.

7. Locate a coddee can or similar container with an inside diameter 1/4" to
1/2"
larger that the outside diameter of the filter ca. Remove the lid
(do not throw away) and
empty and clean the can.

8. Using the coffee can lid as a template, repeat steps 3 and 4 on a 1"
thick sheet of
wood, and after cutting the disk out, drill a 1/4" hole
in the exact center and set aside
for later use.

9. Place the oil can filter cap in the bottom center of the coffee can
and glue in place with
the concave cap facing towards the bottom of the
cap.

| ____ |
| ____________/ \___________ |
|/ \|

|——————————-|

10. If a solid explosive is being used, the following construction
technique should be
used:

A. Mark two rings around the inside of the coffee can; one 3" from the
bottom of
the can, and the second 5 5/8" from the bottom of the can.

B. Carefully pack the explosive uniformly around the filter cap until
it reaches the
3" mark inside the can.

Note: The 1" thick wood disk prepared from step 8 can be used as a uniform
packing tool by attaching an improvised handle using a piece of pipe, two pipe
caps and a 1/4" nut and bolt.

C. After reaching the 3" mark inside the can, place the three later disk
assy.
(prepared in step 6) on top of the compressed explosive.
Center it with the steel disk on the
explosive.

D. Carefully pack the explosive between the inside edge of the can and /> the edge of the three layer disk assy. until the explosive level is
even with the top of
the disk.

E. Carefully pack an additional 1/2" layer of explosive on top of the
last
styrofoam or wood disk. This layer should reach the second ring
marked inside the can.

Note: Again the wood disk/pipe packing tool can be used to compress the
remaining explosive on top of the charge.

F. Disassemble the wood disk/pipe packing tool by removing the center nut
and bolt that
holds the two together. Save and use the pipe for a
future pipe hand grenade (Sec. II, No.
1).

G. Place the 1" thick wood packing disk on top of the explosive contained
inside
the can and seal with glue, wax or tar.

H. When ready to use, insert a 1/4" blasting cap through the center hole
in the
wood disk and into the 1/2" layer of explosive.

Note: The wood disk prepared from step 8 has three main uses; a packing tool, a
lid to prevent the explosive from falling out of the container, and a template
that insures rear center priming of the charge.

11. When using a liquid explosive, a slightly different and easier
construction method is
used:

A. Mark two rings around the inside of the can; one 5 1/8" from the
bottom of the
can and the second 6 5/8 from the bottom of the can.

B. Place the top of the three layer disk assy. at the level of the first
ring marked
inside the can and secure in place with four No. 6 sheet
metal screws spaced wvery 90 degrees
around the outside of the coffee
can and screwed into the center of the center disk assy.
Since the
disk assy. is smaller than the inside diameter of the coffee can, it
can be
held in place by inserting 1/4" wood dowels between the can and
the assy. When the four
supporting screws have been screwed into
place, the wooden dowels can be removed.

C. Place the remaining 1" thick wood disk, prepared from step 8, at
the level of
the second ring marked inside the can and secure
in place with four more No. 6 sheet metal
screws spaced every 90
degrees around the outside of the can. Seal the inside edges with

wax, glue or tar.

D. When ready to use, simply pour the liquid explosive through the
center hole until
fill. Insert a blasting cap through the hole and
into the 1/2" layer of liquid explosive.
Seal around the hole and
blasting cap with glue, wax, or tar.

12. If a coffee can was used in the construction, there should still be
sufficient room inside
the can for a fuzing mechanism, i.e., a watch
delay timer with batteries (Sec. IV, No. 4), or
a small remote control
radio reciever.

13. After the fuzing mechanism has been inserted, the original metal lid
that was removed and
set aside ealier is now glued inside the plastic
sealing lid that comes with most coffee cans
and snapped back in place
on top of the can. The whole charge then resembles an ordinary
coffee can.

plastic lid
|
|——————————————|
|
*&&&*^%&&*&%^*&^**&^%%^&*%%^*&&%^**&^^%% |
|
()*(*((^*&&%^ coffee *&%$%$*&%&**(&*$ |
|
(_*(_)*&^&%^**&^(()*__)(*(*&^_*&^(^&%&%^ |

|——————————————|<-false bottom
()= batteries | () () () ()
|&&| —-\\\\\\\\ |<-batteries in
&&= electric |+__________________+|c
|+_—-////////___+| series, clothes
+= seaant |+ |a | +| pin delay

|+___________________|p |_________________+| _
|//\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\ | |\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\//| |
1/2" explosive
|\\///////////////// |__|////////////////\\| – on top of disc

|\\————————————–//|
|\\- -\\|

|//————————————–//| <- no space

|\\————————————–\\| between
metal screw ***** ***** metal screw

|//————————————–//|
|\\@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@\\|
<- steel plate
|//////////////////////////////////////////|

|//////////////////////////////////////////|
|//////////////////////////////////////////| /> |\\\\\\ "\" and "/" = explosive //////|

|//////////////////////////////////////////|
|//////////////////////////////////////////| /> | /—\ |
| /————————————\ |
| | oil cap | |
|
————————————– |
============================================

Note: A second disguise can be achieved by inserting a third disk covering the
fuzing mechanism, sealing around the edges of the disk and the pouring coffee
back into the can until full. Place the plastic sealing lid over the top of
the can to complete the disguise.

How to Use
———-

1. The SCIMP charge should be used when direct access to the target it not
possible, i.e.,
under or beside a roadway or hanging on a fence looking
into the target area.

2. The applications are very similar to a platter charge with the exception
that the SCIMP
charge has far greater penetration ability of hard targets
at long distances than does the
platter charge. The SCIMP charge
described here can penetrate 1" thick steel at 50
years.

Note: The SCIMP charge relies on a super-heated, rod-like projectile traveling
at ultra high velocity to destroy its target.

Typist Note: I, the Mad Cracker, am not going to type every damn picture in the
book. If you would like to build a "pipe pistol" I suggest you buy the books.
Unless you totally understand the instructions, I would not consider to attempt
these without pictures, as they are dangerous enough when done with the
pictures.

Pipe Pistol for 9mm Ammunition Sec. III, No. 1

A 9mm pistol can be made from 1/4" steel, gas or water pipe and fittings.

Materials
———

1/4" nominal size water pipe, 4-6 inches long with threaded ends

1/4"solid pipe plug

Two (2) steel pipe couplings

Metal strap, roughly 1/8" x 1/4" x 5"

Two (2) elastic bands

Flat head nail, 6D or 8D (approx. 1/16" in diameter)

Two (2) wood screws #8

wood 8" x5" x 1"

drill

1/4" wood or metal rod, approx. 8" long

Procedure
———

1. Carefully inspect pipe and fittings.

A. Make sure that there are NO cracks or other flaws in the pipe or
fittings.

B. Check inside diameter of pipe using a 9mm cartridge as a gauge. The
bullet should
closely fit into the pipe without forcing but the
cartridge case SHOULD NOT fit into pipe. />

C. Outside diameter of pipe MUST NOT be less that 1 1/2 times bullet
diameter (.536 in;
1.37 cm)

2. Drill a 9/16" diameter hole 3/8" into one coupling to remove the thread.

Note: Drilled section should fit tightly over smooth section of the pipe.

3. Drill a 25/64" diameter hole 3/4" into pipe. Use cartridge as a gauge;
when
cartridge is inserted into the pipe, the base of the case should
be even with the end of the
pipe. Thread coupling tightly onto pipe,
drilled end first.

4. Drill a hole in the center of the pipe plug just large enough for the
nail to fit
through.

Note: THE HOLE MUST BE CENTERED IN PLUG.

5. Push nail through plug until head of nail is flush with square end. Cut
nail off at other
end 1/16" away from plug. Round off end of nail wih
file.

6. Bend metal strap to "U" shape and drill holes for wood screws. File two
small
notches at top.

7. Saw or otherwise shape 1" thick hardwood into stock.

|- length must be 2" greater than length of unassembled pipe -|

– | <—2 ins.—> |——————————-| -
| |-1
in.-|—————— | | 1in.
| / | |
6 | / ——— -
i | /
—————————-/
n | / /
s | / <-2 in. -> /
| / /
| /
/
| / /
| / /
– —————-

8. Drll a 9/16" diameter hole through the stock. The center of the hole
should be approx.
1/2" from the top.

9. Slide the pipe through this hole and attach front coupling.

Note: If 9/16" drill is not available, cut a "V" groove in the top of the stock
and tape pipe securely in place.

10. Position metal strap on stock so that top will hit the head of the nail.
Attach to stock
with wood screws on each side.

11. String elastic bands from front coupling to notch on each side of the
strap.

SAFETY CHECK- TEST FIRE PISTOL BEFORE HAND FIRING

1. Locate a barrier such as a stone wall or large tree which you can stand
behid in case the
pistol ruptures when fired.

2. Mount pistol solidly to a table or other rigid support at least ten feet
in front of the
barrier.

3. Attach a cord to the firing strap on the pistol.

4. Holing the other end of the cord, go behind the barrier.

5. Pull cord so that the firing strap is held back.

6. Release the cord to fire the pistol. (If pistol does not fire, shorten
the elastic bands or
increase their number)

Note: Fire at least five rounds behind the barrier and then re-inspect the
pistol before you attempt to hand fire it.

How to Operate Pistol
———————

1. To load:

A. Remove plug from rear coupling.

B. Place cartridge into pipe.

C. Replace plug.

2. To Fire:

A. Pull strap back and hold with thumb until ready.

B. Release strap.

3. To remove shell case:

A. Remove plug from rear coupling.

B. Insert 1/4" diameter steel or wooden rod into front of pistol and push
shell
case out.

Shotgun (12 gauge) Sec. III, No. 2

A 12 gauge shotgun can be made from 1/4" water or gas pipe and fittings.

Materials
———

Wood 2" x 4" x 32"

3/4" nominal size water or gas pipe 20" to 30" long threaded on one end

3/4" steel coupling

solid 3/4" pipe plug

metal strap (1/4" x 1/16" x 4")

twine, heavy, approx. 100 yards

3 wood screws and screwdriver

flat head nail 6D or 8D

hand drill

saw or knife

file

shellac or lacquer

elastic bands

Procedure
———

1. Careffully inspect pipe and fittings

A. Make sure there are no cracks or other flaws.

B. Check inside diameter of pipe. A 12-gauge shot shell should fit into
the pipe, but
the brass rim should not.

C. Outside diameter of pipe must be at least 1 in.

2. Cut stock from wood using a saw or knife. (excuse the shitty drawing)

| <- 32 ins. approx. -> |

|–1 in.
| |-> 13.5 in. <-|______________________________________ _
|
___________________________/____________________________________|_||2 in

\->/__________________________/ — –

4| | ________— |-|
i| | ________——- 2 in.
n| |_____________________—————- –

3. Cut a 3/8" deep "V" groove in the top of the stock.

4. Turn coupling onto pipe until tight.

5. Coat pipe and "V" groove of stock with shellac or lacquer and, while it is
still
wet, place pipe in "V" groove and wrap pipe and stock together using
two heavy
layers of twine. Coat twine with shellac or lacquer after each
layer.

6. Drill a hole through the center of pipe plug large enough for nail to
pass through.

7. File threaded end of plug flat.

8. Push nail through plug and cut off flat 1/32" past the plug.

9. Screw plug into coupling.

10. Bend 4" metal strap into "L" shape and drill hole for wood screw. Notch

metal strap on the long side 1/2" from the bend.

11. Position metal strap on stock so that top will hit the head of the nail.
Attach to stock
with wood screw.

12. Place screw in each side of stock about 4" in front of metal strap. Pass
elastic
bands through notch in metal strap and attach to screw on each side
of the stock.

SAFETY CHECK- TEST FIRE SHOTGUN BEFORE HAND FIRING

1. Locate a barrier such as a stone wall or large tree which you can stand
behind in case the
weapon explodes when fired.

2. Mount shotgun rigidly to a table or other support at least ten feet in
front of the
barrier.

3. Attach a long cord to the firing strap on the shotgun.

4. Holding the other end of the cord, go behind the barrier.

5. Pull the cord so that the firing strap is held back.

6. Release the cord to fire the shotgun. (if shotgun does not fire, shorten
the elastic bands
or increase their numbers.)

Note: Fire at least five rounds from behind the barrier and then re-inspect the
shotgun before you attempt to shoulder fire it.

How to Operate
————–

1. To load:

A. Take plug out of coupling..

B. Put shotgun shell into pipe.

C. Screw plug hand tight into coupling.

2. To fire:

A. Pull strap back and hold with thumb.

B. Release strap.

3. To unload:

A. Take plug out of coupling.

B. Shake out used cartridge.

Shotshell dispersion control Sec. III, No. 4

When desired, shotshell can be modified to reduce shot dispersion.

Materials
———

Shotshell

screwdriver or knife

Any of the following fillers:

crushed rice
rice flour
dry bread crumbs
fine dry sawdust

Procedure
———

1. Carefully remove crimp from shotshell using a screwdriver or knife.

Note: If cartrige is of roll crimp type, remove top wad.

2. Pour shot from shell.

3. Replace one layer of shot in the cartridge. pour in filler material to
fill the space
between the shot.

4. Repeat step 3 until all shot has been replaced.

5. Replace top wad (if applicable) and re-fold crimp.

6. Roll shell on flat surface to smooth out crimp and restore roundness.

7. Seal end of case with wax. (from lit candle)

How to Use
———-

1. This round is loaded and fired in the same manner as a standard shotshell.
The shot spread
will be about 2/3 that of a standard round.

Carbine (7.62 mm; .308 Winchester) Sec. III, No. 4

A rifle can be made from water or gas pipe and fittings. Standard cartridges
are used for ammunition.

Materials
———

wood approx. 2 in. x 4 in. x 30 in.

1/4 in. nominal size iron water or gas pipe 20 in. long threaded at one end.

3/8 in. to 1/4 in. reducer

3/8 in. x 1 1/2" threaded pipe

3/8" pipe coupling

metal strap approx. 1/2 in. x 1/16 in. x 4 in.

twine, heavy, approx. 100 yards

3 wood screws and screwdriver

flat head nail about 1 in. long

hand drill

saw or knife

file

pipe wrench

shellac or lacquer

elastic bands

solid 3/8 in. pipe plug

Procedure
———

1. Inspect pipe and fittings carefully.

A. Make sure there are no cracks or flaws.

B. Check inside diameter of pipe. A 7.62 mm projectile should fit
3/8" into
pipe.

2. Cut stock from wood using saw or knife.

Dimensions:

30" long
4" high at butt end
15" section from butt to center of
rifle 1" below original taper
1 1/2" wide throughout
2" high at tapered
end

3. Cut a 1/4" deep "V" groove in top of the stock.

4. Fabricate rifle barrel from pipe.

A. File or drill inside diameter of threaded end of 20 in. pipe for about
1/4" so
neck of cartridge case will fit in.

B. Screw reducer onto threaded pipe using pipe wrench.

C. Screw short threaded pipe into reducer.

D. Turn 3/8 pipe coupling onto threaded pipe using pipe wrench. All
fittings should be
as tight as possible. Do not split fittings.

5. Coat pipe and "V" groove of stock with shellac or lacquer. While still
wet,
place pipe in "V" groove and wrap pipe and stock together using two
layers of twine.
Coat twine with shellac or lacquer after each layer.

6. Drill a hole through center of pipe plug large enough for nail to pass
through.

7. File threaded end of plug flat.

8. Push nail through plug and cut off rounded 1/32 in. past the plug.

9. Screw plug into coupling.

10. Bend 4 in. metal strap into "L" shape and drill hole for wood screw.
Notch
metal strap on the long side 1/2" from bend.

11. Position metal strap on stock so that top will hit the head of the nail.
Attach to stock
with wood screw.

12. Place screw in each side of stock about 4 in. in front of metal strap.
Pass elastic bands
through notch in metal strap and attach to screw on each
side of the stock.

SAFETY CHECK- TEST FIRE RIFLE BEFORE HAND FIRING

Follow all notes and steps from Sec. III, No. 2.

How to Operate
————–

Follow all steps from Sec. III, No. 2. Including loading, firing, and
unloading.

Reusable primer Sec. III, No. 5

A method of making a previously fired primer reusable.

Materials
———

used cartridge case

2 long nails having approx. the same diameter as the inside of the primer
pocket

"Strike – Anywhere" matches: 2 or 3 needed for each primer

vise

hammer

knife or other sharp edged instrument

Procedure
———

1. File one nail to a needle point so that it is small enough to fit through
hole in primer
pocket.

2. Place cartridge and nail between jaws of vise.

3. Remove anvil from primer cup.

4. File down point of second nail until tip is flat.

5. Remove indentations from face of primer cup with hammer and flattened nail.

6. Cut off tips of the heads of "strike anywhere" matches using knife.
Carefully
crush the match tips on dry surface with wooden match stick
until the mixture is the
consistency of sugar.

Note: Do not crush more that 3 match tips at a time or the mixture may explode.

7. Pour mixture into primer cup. Compress mixture with wooden match stick
until primer cup is
fully packed.

8. Place anvil in primer pocket with legs down.

9. Place cup in pocket with mixture facing downward.

10. Place cartridge case and primer cup between vise jaws, and press slowly
until primer is
seated into bottom of pocket. The primer is now ready
for use.

Pipe Pistol for .45 ammunition Sec. III, No. 6

A .45 caliber pistol can be made from 3/8 in. nominal diameter steel gas or
water pipe and fittings. Lethal range is about 15 yards.

Materials
———

Steel pipe, 3/8 in. in nominal diameter and 6 in. long with threaded ends

2 threaded couplings to fit pipe

solid pipe plug to fit pipe coupling

hard wood, 8.5 in. x 6.5 in. x 1 in.

tape or string

flat head nail, approx. 1/16" in diameter

2 wood screws, approx. 1/16" in diameter

metal strap, 5 in. x 1/4 in. x 1/8 in.

bolt, 4 in. long, with nut (optional)

elastic bands

drills, one 1/16 in. in diameter and one the same as the bolt (optional)

rod, 1/4" in diameter and 8 in. long

saw or knife

Procedure
———

1. Carefully inspect pipe and fittings.

A. Make sure that there are no cracks or flaws in the pipe and fittings.

B. Check inside diameter of pipe using .45 caliber cartridge as a gauge.
The cartridge
should fit into the pipe snugly, but without forcing.

C. Outside diameter of pipe MUST NOT BE less that 1 1/2 times the
bullet diameter. />

2. Follow procedure of Section III, No. 1, steps 4, 5 and 6.

3. Cut stock from wood using saw or knife.

|<- 6 ins. ->|

— |————————————–|
1.5| | —\ —
in_|_ |_________________ \ |
| \ |
| <- 2 ins. -> |____________ \ | 5
\ \ |
i
|<- 1.5 in->| \ \ | n
\ \ | s
\ \ |
\ \ |
\ \ |

\______________\ —

|<- 8.5 ins. ->|

4. Cut a 3/8 in. "V" groove in the top of the stock.

5. Screw couplings into pipe. Screw plug into coupling.

6. Securely attach pipe to stock using string or tape.

7. Follow procedures of Sec. III, No. 1, steps 10 and 11.

8. (optional) Bend bolt for trigger. Drill hole in stock and place bolt in
hole so strap will
be anchored by bolt when pulled back. If bolt is not
available, use strap as trigger by
pulling back and releasing.

9. Follow safety check, Sec. III, No. 1.

How to Use
———-

1. To load:

A. Remove plug from rear coupling.

B. Wrap string or elastic band around extractor groove so case will seat
into barrel
securely.

C. Place cartridge into pipe.

D. Replace plug.

2. To fire:

A. Pull metal strap back and anchor in trigger.

B. Pull trigger when ready to fire.

C. If bolt is not used, pull strap back and release.

3. To remove spent cartridge:

A. Remove plug from rear coupling.

B. Insert rod into front of pistol and push cartridge case out.

Match gun Sec. III, No. 7

An improvised weapon using safety matches as the propellant and a metal object
as the projectile. Lethal reange is about 40 yards.

Materials
———

Metal pipe, 24 in. long and 3/8 in. in diameter (nominal size) or its
equivalent, threaded on one end

end cap to fit pipe

safety matches- 3 books of 20 matches each

wood- 28 in. x 4 in. x 1 in.

toy caps OR safety fuse OR "strike anywhere" matches (2)

electrical tape or string

metal strap about 4 in. x 1/4 in. x 3/16 in.

2 rags, about 1 in. x 12 in. and 1 in. x 3 in.

wood screws

elastic bands

metal object (steel rod, bolt with head cut off, etc.) approx. 7/16 in. in
diameter, and 7/16 in. long if iron or stell, 1 1/4 in. long if aluminum, 5/16
in. long if lead

metal disk 1 in. in diameter and 1/16 in. thick (quarter?)

bolt, 3/32 in. or smaller in diameter and nut to fit

saw or knife

Procedure
———

1. Carefully inspect pipe and fittings. Be sure that there are no cracks or
other flaws.

2. Drill a small hole in center of end cap. If safety fuse is used, be sure
it will pass
through this hole.

3. Cut stock from wood using saw or knife.

Dimensions: recess ________________
__/_|_\______| ___- <- taper
4 in. at butt
(high) butt->| _____——-
1 in. thick ————-
1/2 in. at tapered end
28
in. long
14 in. recessed

4. Cut a 3/8 in. deep "V" groove in top of stock.

5. Screw end cap onto pipe until tight.

6. Attach pipe to stock with string or tape.

7. Bend metal strap into "L" shape and drill holes for wood screw. Notch
metal
strap on long side 1/2 in. from bend.

8. Position metal strap on stock so that the top will hit the center of hole
drilled in end
cap.

9. Attach metal disk to strap with nut and bolt. This will deflect blast
from hole in end cap
when gun is fired. Be sure that head of bolt is
centered on hole in end cap.

10. Attach strap to stock with wood screws.

11. Place screw on each side of stock about 4 in. in front of metal strap.
Pass elastic bands
through notch in metal strap and attach to screw on
each side of stock.

How to Use
———-

A. When toy caps are used:

1. Cut off match heads from 3 books of matches with knife. Pour match heads
into pipe.

2. Fold one end of 1 in. x 12 in. rag 3 times so that it becomes a 1 in.
square of 3
thicknesses. Place rag into pipe to cover match heads.

3. Place metal object into pipe. Place 1 in. x 3 in. rag into pipe to cover
projectile. Tamp
firmly WITH CAUTION.

4. Place toy caps over small hole in end cap. Be sure metal strap will
hit caps when it is
released.

Note: It may be necessary to tape toy caps to end cap.

5 When ready to fire, pull strap back and release.

B. When "Strike-Anywhere" matches are used:

1. Follow steps 1-3 in A.

2. Carefully cut off tips of heads of 2 "strike-anywhere" matches with knife.

3. Place one tip in hole in end cap. Push in with wooden end of match stick.

4. Place second match tip on a piece of tap. Place tape so match tip is
directly over hole in
end cap.

5. When ready to fire, pull metal strap back and release.

C. When safety fuse is available (recommended for booby traps)

1. Remove end cap from pipe. Knot one end of safety fuse. Thread safety
fuse through hole in
end cap so that knot is on inside of end cap.

2. Follow steps 1-3 in A.

3. Tie several matches to safety fuse outside end cap.

Note: Bare end of safety fuse should be inside match head cluster.

4. Wrap match covers around matches and tie. Striker should be in contact
with match bands. />

5. Replace end cap on pipe.

6. When ready to fire, pull match cover off with strong, firm, quick motion.

Note: Follow safety check from Sec. III, No. 1.
Rifle Cartridge Sec. III, No. 8

A method of making a previously fired rifle cartridges reusable.

Note: See Sec. III, No. 5 for reusable primer

Materials
———

Emppty rifle cartridge, be sure it still fits inside gun

threaded bolt that fits into neck of cartridge at least 1 1/4 in. long

safety or strike anywhere matches (58 needed for 7.62 mm cartridge)

rag wad (about 3/4 in. square for 7.62 mm cartridge)

knife

saw

Procedure
———

1. Remove coating on head of matches by scaping match sticks with sharp edge.

CAUTION: If wooden "strike-anywhere" matches are used, cut off the tips first.
Discard tips or use for Reusable Primer, Sec. III, No. 5.

2. Fill previously primed cartridge case with match head coatings up to its
neck. Pack evenly
and tightly with match stick.

Note: remove head of match stick before packing. In all packing operations,
stand off to the side and pack gently. Do not hammer.

3. Place rag wad in neck of case. Pack with match stick from which head was
removed.

4. Saw off head end of bolt so remainder is approx. the length of standard
bullet.

5. Place bolt in cartridge case so that it sticks out about the same length
as the original
bullet.

Note: If bolt does not fit snugly, force paper or match sticks between bolt and
case, or wrap tape around bolt before inserting in case.

Pipe pistol for .38 caliber ammunition Sec. III, No. 9

A .38 caliber pistol can be made from 1/4 in. nominal diameter steel gas or
water pipe and fittings. Lethal range is approx. 33 yards.

Materials
———

Steel pipe, 1/4 in. nominal diameter and 6 in. long with threaded ends (nipple)

solid pipe plug, 1/4 in. nominal diameter

2 steel pipe couplings, 1/4 in. nominal diameter

metal strap, approx. 1/8 in. x 1/4 in. x 5 in.

elastic bands

flat head nail- 6D or 8D, approx. 1/16 in. in diameter

2 wood screws, #8

hard wood, 8 in. x 5 in. x 1 in.

drill

wood or metal rod, 1/4 in. diameter and 8 in. long

saw or knife

Procedure
———

1. Carefully inspect pipe and fittings.

A. Make sure there are no cracks or other flaws.

B. Check inside diameter of pipe using a .38 cartridge as a gauge. The
bullet should
fit closely into the pipe without forcing, but then
the cartridge case should not fit into
the pipe.

C. Outside diameter of the pipe must NOT be less that 1 1/2 times the
bullet
diameter.

2. Drill a 35/64 in. diameter hole 3/4 in. into one coupling to remove the
thread. Drilled
section should fit tightly over smooth section of pipe.

3. Drill a 25/64 in. diameter hole 1 1/8 in. into pipe. Use cartridge as a
gauge; when a
cartridge is inserted into the pipe, the shoulder of the
case should butt against the end of
the pipe. Thread coupling tightly onto
pipe.

4. Follow procedures of Sec. III, No. 1, steps 4-11.

5. Follow safety check, Sec. III, No. 1.

How to Use
———-

Follow procedures of How to Operate Pistol, Sec. III, No. 1, steps 1, 2 and 3.

Pipe Pistol for .22 caliber Ammunition (long or short) Sec. III, No. 10

A .22 cal. pistol can be made from 1/8 in. nominal diameter extra heavy, steel
gas or water pipe and fittings. Lethal range is about 33 yards.

Materials
———

steel pipe, extra heavy, 1/8 in. nominal diameter and 6 in. long with threaded
ends (nipple)

solid pipe plug, 1/8 in. nominal diameter

2 steel pipe couplings, 1/8 in. x 1/4 in. x 5 in.

elastic bands

flat head nail- 6D or 8D approx. 1/16 in. diameter

2 wood screws, #8

hardwood, 8 in. x 5 in. x 1 in.

drill

wood or metal rod

saw or knife

Procedure
———

1. Carefully inspect pipe and fittings.

A. Make sure that there are NO cracks or other flaws in the pipe or
fittings.

B. Check inside diameter of pipe using a .22 caliber cartridge, long
or short, as a
gauge. The bullet should fit closely into the pipe
without forcing, but the cartridge case
should NOT fit into the pipe.

C. Outside diameter of pipe MUST NOT BE less than 1 1/2 times the bullet
diameter. />

2. Drill a 15/64 in. diameter hole 9/16 in. deep in the pipe for long
cartridge. (If short
cartridge is used, drill hole 3/8 in. deep). When
a cartridge is inserted into the pipe, the
shoulder of the case should
butt against the end of the pipe.

3. Screw the coupling onto the pipe. Cut coupling length to allow pipe plug
to thread in pipe
flush against the cartridge case.

4. Drill a hole off center of the pipe plug just large enough for the nail
to fit through. />

Note: Drilled hole MUST BE OFF CENTER in plug. (Centered, but low)

5. Push nail through pipe plug until head of nail is flush with square end.
Cut nail off at
other end 1/16 in. away from plug. Round off end with
file.

6. Follow procedures of Sec. III, No. 1, steps 6-11.

7. Follow safety check, Sec. III, No. 1.

How to Use
———-

Follow procedures of How to Use, Sec. III, No. 1, steps 1, 2 and 3.

Low Signature System Sec. III, No. 11

Low signature systems (silencers) for improvised small arms weapons (Sec. III)
can be made from steel gas or water pipe and fittings.

Materials
———

grenade container (approx. 2.75 in. in diameter, 5 in. long)

steel pipe nipple, 6 in. long- See table 1 for diameter

2 steel pipe couplings- See table 2 for dimensions

cotton cloth- See table 2 for dimensions

drill

absorbent cotton

Procedure
———

1. Drill hole in grenade container at both ends to fit outside diameter of
pipe nipple. (See
table 1)

2. Drill four (4) rows of holes in pipe nipple. use table 1 for diameter
and location of hole.

Table I. Low signature system dimensions
—————————————————————————–
Holes Four /> (coupling) per rows
A B C D row total

—————————————————————————–
.45 cal. 3/8 1/4 3/8 3/8 12 48

.38 cal. 3/8 1/4 1/4 1/4 12 48

9 MM 3/8 1/4 1/4 1/4 12 48

7.62 MM 3/8 1/4 1/4 1/4 12 48

.22 cal 1/4 5/32 1/8* 1/8 14 50
—————————————————————————–
*- extra heavy pipe
All dimensions in inches

3. Thread on of the pipe couplings on the drilled pipe nipple.

4. Cut coupling length to allow barrel of weapon to thread filly into low
signature system.
Barrel should butt against end of the drilled pipe
nipple.

5. Separate the top half of the grenade container from the bottom half.

6. Insert the pipe nipple in the drilled hole at the base of the bottom half
of container.
Pack the absorbent cotton inside the container and around
the pipe nipple.

7. Pack the absorbent cotton in top half of grenade container leaving hole
in center. Assend
container to the bottom half.

8. Thread the other coupling onto the pipe nipple.

Note: The longer container and pipe nipple, with saw "A" and "B" dimensions
as

those given, will further reduce the signature of the system.

How to Use
———-

1. Thread the low signature system on the selected weapon securely.

2. Place the proper cotton wad size into the muzzle end of the system.

Table II. Cotton wadding- Sizes
———————————
weapon cotton
wad size
———————————
.45 1 1/2 in. x 6 in.
.38 1 x 4 in. /> 9 mm 1 x 4 in.
7.62 mm 1 x 4 in. .22 not needed

3. Load weapon.

4. Weapon is now ready to use.

Cherry Bomb Flechette gun Sec. III, No. 14

Typist note: In the Black book III, the .22 pistol is done again. Since the
two are almost identical and therefore, the second one has not be typed and
presented here. That is the reason for this section being No. 14, instead of
No. 13.

A highly effective, hand held shotgun can be made from 3/4 in. water pipe and
the projectiles are homemade flechettes (steel darts) made from box nails.
This shotgun uses cherry bombs as a source of propellant and can achieve muzzle
velocities as high as 1300 feet per second. The effective range is appox. 50
yards.

Materials
———

3/4 in. diameter water pipe, 12 inches long

3/4 in. pipe coupler and pipe plug

box nails between 1 in. and 1 1/2 in. long

short piece of 3/4 in. water pipe, approx 2 in. long

rubber from inner tube

cork from wine bottle

plaster of paris

hammer and drill with 1/8 in. bit

cherry bombs or homemade flash powder

Procedure
———

1. Flechette rounds can be made in the following manner:

A. Flatten the heads of box
nails with a hammer.

B. Pour plaster of paris into a mold made from a short section of 3/4 in.
water pipe,
to a depth of 3/8 in.

C. Insert the nails, fins down, into this mold and allow the plaster of
paris to
harden. (approx. 20 minutes)

D. Push the flechette round out of the mold and set aside for later use.

2. For every flechette round that is prepared, a gas seal spacer has to also
be prepared in
the following manner:

A. Using the short section of 3/4 in. water pipe as a die, sharpen the
edges with a
file and hammer out circular pieces from a rubber inner
tube.

B. Using a razor blade, cut a 3/4 in. diameter wine bottle cord into
1/2 in.
sections.

C. Attach the rubber gas seal to the cork spacer with a thumb tack.

3. The shotgun may be prepared in the following manner:

A. Drill a 1/8 in. diameter hole through the center of a 3/4 in. pipe
plug, then screw
the pipe plug into a 3/4 in. pipe coupler.

B. Screw this pipe coupler assy. onto one end of a 12 inch long piece
of 3/4 in. water
pipe.

How To Use
———-

1. Unscrew the pipe coupler assy. from the end of the pipe.

2. Insert the flechette round into the pipe.

3. Insert the gas seal spacer assy. behind the flechette round.

4. Insert a cherry bomb into the pipe coupler assy. with the fuse protruding
from the rear of
the pipe plug.

5. Screw the coupling assy. onto the pipe and ignite the fuse.

Note: Gloves should be worn if this weapon is to be hand fired. With
sufficient practice, it can be fired, broken down, reloaded and fired again in
a reasonably short period of time.

A second application is to fire it electrically.

By using an electric bulb initiator (Sec. IV, No. 1) and filling the bulb with
the contents of a cherry bomb, this weapon can be used as an effective booby
trap to cover a trail or other type of passageway. It can still be hand fired
by means of a hand held battery pack and switch arrangment.

If cherry bombs are not available, the following flash powders can be
substituted:

1. 4 parts by weight of potassium perchlorate
1 part by weight of antimony sulfide
1
part by weight aluminum powder

2. 3 parts by weight of potassium permanganate
2 parts by weight of aluminum powder

3. 4 parts by weight of potassium chlorate
1 part by weight of sulfur
1 part by weight
of aluminum powder

The fist mixture is standard cherry bomb powder and should be used whenever
possible.

The second mixture is an excellent substitute for the first and is relatively
safe to handle.

The third mixture is extremely shock sensitive and should only be used as a
last resort.

To use these mixtures, separately pulverize each ingredient into a fine powder.
Add these
powder ingredients to a canning jar or other similar container with

a tight fitting lid. Mix thoroughly by gently tumbling the container between
the hands of a period of five minutes. Add one gram (approx. 1 teaspoon) to an
electric bulb initiator when ready to use.

Recoilless launcher Sec. IV, No. 1

A dual directional scrap fragment launcher which can be placed to cover the
path of advancing troops.

Materials
———

Iron water pipe approx. 4 ft. long and 4 in. in diameter

black powder (commercial) or salvaged artillery propellant (about 1/2 lb.)

safety or improvised fuse (Sec. VI, No. 7) or iomprovised electrical igniter
(Sec. IV, No. 2)

stones and/or metal scrap approx 1/2 in. in diameter- about 1 lb.

4 rags fro wadding- each about 20 in. x 20 in.

wire

paper or rag

Note: Be sure pipe has no cracks or flaws

Procedure
———

1. Place propellant and igniter in paper or rag and tir with string so
contents cannot fall
out.

2. Insert packaged propellant and igniter in center of pipe. Pull string
leads out one end of
pipe.

3. Stuff a rag wad into each end of pipe and lightly tamp using a flat end
stick.

4. Insert stones and/or scrap metal into each end of pipe. Be sure the
same weight of material
is used on each side.

5. Insert a rag wad into each end of the pipe and pack tightly as before.

How to Use
———-

1. Place scrap mine in a tree or pointed in the path of the enemy. Attach
igniter lead to the
firing circuit. The recoilless launcher is ready to
fire.

2. If safety or improvised fuse is used instead of the detonator, place the
fuse into
thepackaged propellant through a hole drilled in the center of
the pipe. Light free end of
fuse when ready to fire. Allow for normal
delay time.

Caution: Scrap will be ejected from both ends of the pipe.

Shotgun grenade launcher Sec. IV, No. 2

This device can be usedto launch a hand grenade to a distance of 160 yards or
more, using a standard 12 gauge shotgun.

Materials
———

Grenade (Improvised pipe grenade, Sec. II, No. 1, may be used)

12 gauge shotgun

12 gauge shotgun shells

two washers, (brass, steel, iron, etc.), having outside diameter of 5/8 in.

rubber disk 3/4 in. in diameterand 1/4 in. thick (leather, neoprene, etc.) can
be used

a 30 in. long piece of hard wood (maple, oak, etc.) approx. 5/8 in. in
diameter- be sure it will slide down barrel easily

tin can (grenade and safety lever must fit into can)

two wooden blocks about 2 in. square and 1 1/2 in. thick

one wood screw about 1 in. long

two nails about 2 in. long

12 gauge wads, tissue paper, or cotton

adhesive tape, string, or wire

drill

Procedure
———

1. Punch hole in center of rubber disk large enough for screw to pass through.

2. Make push rod as shown (I hate this):

|+|::|+|————————-
=|+| |+|————————-
=|+|
|+|————————-
|+|::|+|————————-

where:
"=" is screw head
":" (space between) is rebber disk

"|+|" is a washer
"|-|" is a wooden stick

Note: Gun barrel is slightly less than 3/4 in. in diameter. If rubber disk
does not fit in barrel, file or trim it very slightly. It should fit tightly.

3. Drill a hole through the center of one wooden block of such size that the
push rod will fit
tightly. Whittle a depression around the hole on one
side approx. 1/8 in. and large enough
for the grenade to rest in.

4. Place the base of the grenade in the wooden block. Securely fasten grenade
to block by
wrapping tape (or wire) around entire grenade and block.

Note: Be sure that the tape or wire does not cover hole in block or interfere
with the operation of the grenade or safety lever.

5. Drill hole through the center of the second wooden block, so that it
will just slide over
the outside of the gun barrel.

6. Drill a hole in the center of the bottom of the tin can the same size as
the hole in the
block.

7. Attach can to block as shown: (this is getting on my nerves)

———————————————–|
______|
\ | |

++|++++++|+
| |
| |
| |
| |
++|++++++|+
/ | |
|______| /> |
————————————————

This diamgram (hmpf!) represents the can, a wood block at the bottom, and nails
holding the block on (they are to be bent over).

8. Slide the can and block onto the barrel until muzzle passes the can’s open
end. Wrap a
small piece of tape around the barrel an inch or two from the
end. Tightly wrapped string may
be used instead of tape. Force the can
and wooden block forward against the tape so that they
are securely held in
place. Wrap tape around the barrel behind the can.

Caution: Be sure that the can is securely fastened to the gun barrel. If the
can should become looses and slip down the barrel after the launcher is
assembled, the grenade will explode aftr the egular delay time.

9. Remove crimp from a 12 gauge shotgun shell with pen knife. Open cartridge.
Pour shot from
shell. Remove wads and plastic liner, if present.

10. Empty the propellant onto a piece of paper. Using a knife, divide the
propellant in half.
Replace half of the propellant into the cartridge
case.

11. Replace the 12 gauge cardboard wads into cartridge case.

Note: If wads are not available, stuff tissue paper or cotton into the
cartridge case. Pack tighly.

How to Use
———-

Method I- when ordinary grenade is used:

1. Load cartridge into gun.

2. Push end of push-rod without the rubber disk into hole in wooden block
fastened to
grenade.

3. Slowly push rod into barrel until it rests against the cartridge case
and grenade is in
can. If the grenade is not in the can, remove rod and
cut to proper size. Push rod back into
barrel.

4. With can holding safety lever of grenade in place, carefully remove
safety pin.

Caution: Be sure that the sides of the can restrain the grenade safety lever.
If the safety lever should be released for any reason, the grrenade will
explode after regular delay time.

5. To fire grenade launcher, rest gun in ground at angle determined by
range desired. A 45
degree andgle should give about 160 yards.

Method II- when improvised pipe grenade is used:

An improvised pipe grenade (Sec. II, No. 1) may be launched in a similar
manner. No tin can is needed.

1. Fasten the grenade to the block as shown above with the fuse hole at
the end opposite the
block.

2. Push end of push-rod into hole in wooden block fastened to grenade.

3. Push rod into barrel until it rests against cartridge case.

4. Load cartrige in gun.

5. Follow step 5 of method I.

6. Using a fuse with at least a 10 second delay, light the fuse before firing.

7. Fire when the fuse burns to 1/2 its original length.

Grenade Launcher (57 mm cardboard container) Sec. IV, No. 3

An improvised method of launching a standard grenade 150 yards or an improvised
grenade 90 yards using a discarded cardboard ammunition container.

Materials
———

Heavy cardboard container with inside diameter of 2 1/2 to 3 in. and at least
12 in. long- ammunition container is suitable

black poswder- 8 grams (124 grams) or less

safety or improvised fuse (Sec. VI, No. 7)

grenade or (improvised grenade, Sec. II, No. 1)

rag, approx. 20 in. x 24 in.

paper

Caution: 8 grams of black powder yield the maximum ranges. Do not use more
than this amount. See improvised scale, Sec. VII, No. 8, for measuring.

Procedure
———

Method I- If standard grenade is used:

1. Discard top of container. Make small hole in bottom.

2. Place black powder in paper. Tie end with string so contents cannot fall
out. Place
package in container.

3. Insert rag wadding into container. Pack tightly with CAUTION.

4. Measuring off a length of fuse that will give the desired delay. Thread
this through hole
in bottom of container so tat it renetrates into the
black powder package.

Note: If improvised fuse is used, be sure fuse fits loosely through hole in
bottom of container.

5. Hold grenade safety lever and carefully withdraw safety pin from grenade.
Insert grenade
into container, lever end first.

CAUTION: If grenade safety lever should be released for any reason, grenade
will explode after normal delay time.

6. Bury container about 6 in. in the ground at 30 degree angle, bringing fuse
up alongside
container. Pack ground tightly around container.

CAUTION: The tightly packed dirt helps to hold the tube together during the
firing. DO not fire unless at least the bottom half of the container is buried
in solidly packed dirt.

Method II- If improvised pipe hand grenade is used:

1. Follow step 1 on above procedure.

2. Measure off a piece of fuse at least as long as the cardboard container.
Tape one end of
this to the fuse from the blasting cap in the improvised
grenade. Be sure ends of fuse are in
contact with each other.

3. Place free end of fuse and black powder on piece of paper. Tie ends with
string so contents
will not fall out.

4. Place package in tube. Insert rag wadding. Pack so it fits snugly. Place
pipe hand grenade
into tube. Be sure it fits snugly.

5. Insert fuse through hole in end of cardboard container. Be sure it goes
into black powder
package.

Note: Cardboard container may be used for ony one firing.

6. Follow step 6 of method I.

How to Use
———-

Light fuse when ready to fire.

Fire Bottle launcher Sec. IV, No. 4

A device using 2 items (shotgun and chemical fire bottle) that can be used to
start or place a fire 80 yards from launcher.

Materials
———

standard 12 gauge shotgun or improvised shotgun (Sec. III, No. 2)

improvised fire bottle (Sec. V, No. 1)

tin can, about 4 in. in diameter and 5 1/2 in. high

wood, about 3 in. x 3 in. x 2 in.

nail, at least 3 in.

nuts and bolts or nails, at least 2 1/2 in. long

rag

paper

drill

If standard shotgun is used:

Hard wood stick, about the same lenght of the shotgun barrel and about 5/8 in.
in diameter- stick need not to be round

2 washers (brass, steel, iron, etc.) having outside diameter of 5/8 in.

one wood screw about 1 in. long

rubber disk, 3/4 in. in diameter and 1/4 in. thick (leather, cardboard, etc.
may also be used)

12 gauge shorgun ammunition

If improvised shotgun is used:

Fuse, safety or improvised fast burning (Sec. VI, No. 7)

hard wood stick, about the same length of the barrel and 3/4 in. in diameter

black powder- 9 grams, See Sec. VII. No.

Procedure
———

Method I- If improvised shotgun is used:

1. Drill hole in center of wood block approx. 1 in. deep. Hole should have
approx. the same
diameter of the woden stick.

2. Drill 2 small holes on opposite sides of the wooden block. Hole should be
large enough for
bolts to pass through.

3. Fasten can to block with nuts and bolts.

Note: Can may also be securely fastened to clock by hammering several nails
through can and block. Do dot drill holes, and be careful not to split wood.

4. Place wooden stick into hole in wooden block. Drill small hole (same
diameter as that of 3
in. nail) through wooden block and through wooden
stick. Insert nail in hole.

5. Crumple paper and place in bottom of can. Place another piece of paper
around fire bottle
and insert into can. Use enough paper so that bottle
will fit snugly.

6. Place safety fuse and black powder on paper. Tie each end with string.

7. Thread fuse through hole in plug. Place powder package in rear of
shotgun. Screw plug
finger tight into coupling.

Note: Hole in plug may have to be enlarged for fuse.

8. Insert rag into front of cartridge. Pack rag against powder package with
stick. USE
CAUTION!

Method II- If standard shotgun is used:

1. Follow steps 1 and 2, shotgun grenade launcher, Sec. IV, No. 2.

2. Follow procedure of method I, steps 1-5.

3. Follow steps 9, 10, 11, shotgun grenade launcher, Sec. IV, No. 2, using
1/3 of total
propellant instead of 1/2.

4. Load cartridge in gun.

CAUTION: Do not tilt muzzle downward.

2. Hold gun against ground at 45 degree angle and light fuse.

Note: Steps 1 and 2, "How to Use" same for both standard and improvised
shotguns.

CAUTION: Severe burns may result if bottle shatters when fired. If possible,
obtain a bottle identical to that being used as the fire bottle. Fill about
2/3 full of water and fire as above. If bottle shatters when fired instead of
being launched intact, use a different type of bottle.

Grenade Launchers Sec. IV, No. 5

A variety of grenade launchers can be fabricated from metal pipes and fittings.
Ranges up to 660 yards can be obtained depending on length of tube, charge,
number of grenades, and angle of firing.

Materials
———

Metal pie, threaded on one end and approx. 2 1/2 in. in diameter and 14 in. to
4 ft. long, depending on range desired and number of grenades used.

end cap to fit pipe

black powder, 15 to 50 grams, approx 1 1/4 to 4 1/4 tablespoons (Sec. I, No. 3)

safety fuse, fast burning improvised fuse (Sec. VI, No. 7) OR improvised
electric bulb initiator (Sec. VI, No. 1) automobile light bulb is needed

grenades- 1 to 6

rag(s) about 30 in. x 30 in.

drill

string

Note: Examine pipe carefully to be sure there are no flaws or cracks.

Procedure
———

Method I- If fuse is used:

1. Drill small hole through center of end cap.

2. Make small knot near one end of fuse. Place black powder and knotted end
of fuse in paper
and tie with string.

3. Thread fuse through hole in end cap and place package in end cap. Screw
end cap onto pipe,
being careful that black powder package is not caught
between threads.

4. Roll rag wad so that it is about 6 in. long and has approx. the same
diameter as the pipe.
Push rolled rag into open end of pipe until
it rests against black powder package.

5. Hold grenade safety lever in place and carefully withdraw safety pin.

CAUTION: If grenade safety lever is released for any reason, the grenade will
explode after the usual delay (4-5 sec.).

6. Holding safety lever in place, carefully push grenade into pipe, lever end
first, until it
rests against rag wad.

7. The following table list carious types of grenade launchers and their
performance
characteristics.

——————————————————————————-
Desired range | No. of grenades | black powder | pipe length | firing angle
—————-|——————-|————–|————-|————-
250 m | 1 | 15 gm | 14" | 30 degrees
500 m | 1 | 50 gm | 48" | 10 degrees
600 m (A) | 1 | 50 gm | 48" | 30 degrees
200m | 6 (B) | 25 gm | 48" | 30 degrees
—————-|——————-|————–|————-|————-

(A): For this range, an additional delay is required, see Sec. VI, No. 11& 12.

(B): For multiple launcher, load as shown: (bullshit. Like this.)

Note: Since performance of different black powder varies, fire several test
rounds to determine the exact amount of powder necessary to achieve the desired
range.

Load in this order, from bottom: Black powder package, rolled rag (30×30),
grenade, stuffed rag (20×20), grenade, stuffed rag (20×20), etc…

How to Use
———-

1. Bury at least 1/2 of the launcher pipe in the ground at desired angle.
Open end should face
the expected path of the enemy. Muzzle my be covered
with cardboard and a thin layer of dirt
and/or leaves as camouflage. Be
sure cardboard prevents dirt from entering pipe.

Note: The 14 in. launcher may be hand held against the ground instead of being
buried.

2. Light fuse when ready to fire.

Method II- If electrical igniter is used:

Note: Be sure bulb is in good operating condition.

1. Prepare electric bulb initiator as described in Sec. VI, No.1.

2. Place electric initiator and black powder charge in paper. Tie ends of
paper with
string.

3. Follow above procedure, steps 3 to end of Procedure.

How to Use
———-

1. Follow above How to Use, Step 1.

2. Connect leads to firing circuit. Close circuit when ready to fire.

60MM mortar projectile Launcher Sec. IV, No. 6

A device to launch 60MM mortar rounds using a metal pipe 2 1/2 in. in diameter
and 4 ft. long as the launching tube.

Materials
———

Mortar, 60MM projectile and charge increments

metal pipe, 2 1/2 in. in diameter and 4 ft. long, threaded on one end

threaded cap to fit pipe

bolt, 1/8 in. in diameter and at least 1 in. long.

two nuts to fit bolt

file

drill

Procedure
———

1. Drill hole 1/8 in. in diameter through center of end cap.

2. Round off end of bolt with file.

3. Place bolt through hole in end cap. Secure in place with nuts.

===============
+=+
()::+:+::: <- must protrude 1/4 inch on both sides
+=+
================

where:

"=" is end cap
"()" is bolt head
"+" is nut

":" is bolt

4. Screw end cap onto pipe tightly. Tube is now ready for use.

How to Use
———-

1. Bury launching tube in ground at desired angle so that bottom of tube is at
least 2 ft.
underground. Adjust the number of increments in rear finned
end of mortat projectile. See
following table (shit) for launching angle
and number of increments used.

2. When ready to fire, withdraw safety wire from mortar projectile. Drop
projectile into
launching tube, FINNED END FIRST. (yes, several assholes
in the ARMY have actually put one
down head first….BOOM! They ain’t with
us no more…)

CAUTION: Be sure bore riding pin is in place when mortar projectile is dropped
into tube. A live mortar round could explode in the tube if ithe fit is loose
enough to permit the bore riding pin to come out partway. Also keep all body
arts behind open end of tube when firing, as the mortar will fire once dropped
down the tube.

Table

desired
range (yds.) | max height (yards) | angle of elevation | charge (a) |
—————-|——————–|——————–|—————-|
150 | 25 | 40 | 0
|
300 | 50 | 40 | 1 |
700 | 150 | 40 | 2 |
1000 | 225 | 40 | 3 |
1500 | 300
| 40 | 4 |

—————-|——————–|——————–|—————-|
125 | 75 | 60 | 0
|
300 | 125 | 60 | 1 |
550 | 250 | 60 | 2 |
1000 | 375 | 60 | 3 |
1440 | 600
| 60 | 4 |

—————-|——————–|——————–|—————-|
75 | 100 | 80 | 0
|
150 | 200 | 80 | 1 |
300 | 350 | 80 | 2 |
400 | 600 | 80 | 3 |
550 | 750
| 80 | 4 |

—————-|——————–|——————–|—————-|

(A): charge- number of increments
Silent grenade launcher Sec. IV, No. 7

A completely silent grenade launcher can be made from a 12 gauge shotgun shell,
pieces of pipe, pipe resucer, wooden dowels and a wine bottle cork. This
produces a launcher that can propel a fire bottle in excess of 100 yards and a
grenade in excess of 300 yards. After firing, all of the expanding gas in
contained within the barrel. This principle of gas containment produces a
completely silent weapon.

Materials
———

12 gauge shotgun shells

launcher parts:

3/4 in. nominal size water or gas pipe, 30 in. long and threaded on both
ends

3/4 in. steel pipe coupler

3/4 in. steel pipe plug

sheet of wood 2 in. x 4 in. x 32 in.

metal strap 1/4 in. x 1/16 in. x 4 in.

heavy twine (approx. 100 yards)

3 wood screws and screwdriver

flat head nail (8D) for firing and safety pins

saw, file and drill with assortment of bits

shellac or lacquer

rubber bands

Gas containment parts:

3/4 in. to 1/2 in. steel pipe reducer

3/4 in. diameter, 1 1/2 in. long hard wooden dowel

3/4 in. diameter wine bottle cork

rubber disk 3/4 in. in diameter and 1/4 in. thick (leather or neoprene can
be used in
place of the rubber disk)

vaseline

Launching platfirm parts:

hard wooden dowel 30 in. long x 1/2 in. in diameter

tin can to fit over fire bottle or hand grenade

wood platfirm base approx. 3 in. x 3 in. x 2 in. to which tin can and
wooden dowel will
be mounted

nuts and bolts, or nails, at least 2 1/2 in. long

Procedure
———

1. Carefully inspect pipe and fittings:

A. Make sure there are no cracks or other flaws.

B. Check inside diameter of pipe. A 12 gauge shotgun shell should fit
into the pipe but
the brass rim of the shell should not.

C. Outside diameter of the pipe must be at least 1 in.

D. Screw the 3/4 in. – 1/2 in. pipe resucer onto the front end of the
pipe. Sighting
through the rear end of the pipe, ensure that the
reduced 1/2 in. center hole is centered
with respect to the side
walls of the 3/4 in. pipe. Remove the pipe reducer and set aside /> for later use.

CAUTION: Do not use a pipe reducer that causes an offset center hole when it is
tightened down on the end of the pipe.

2. Cut stock from wood using a saw:

| <- approx. 32 in. -> |
| <- 13 1/2 in. -> |

one inch thick at butt ______________________________
_ ________________________| |
<- 2 inches thick

4| | __| here; should
i| | _______—— taper to 2×2in
n|_ |_____________________________———–

3. Cut 3/8 in. deep "V" groove int he top of the stock.

4. Turn the 3/4 in. pipe coupling onto the rear of the pipe.

5. Coat pipe and "V" groove of stock with shellac or lacquer and while still
wet,
place pipe in "V" groove and wrap pipe and stock together using two
heavy layers of
twine. Coat twine with shellac or lacquer after each
layer.

6. Using a metal file, file the threaded end of the pipe plug flat. This
allows a firm seat
between the rear of the shotshell case and the end of
the pipe plug. However, because of
tapered screw threads on the pipe and
pipe plug, the pipe coupler my prevent firm seating
between the shotshell
case and the pipe plug. If this is the case, fill the space between
the
pipe plug and the shotshell case with 1 in. steel washers with holes in
the center
of the firing pin to pass through.

7. Drill a hole through the center of the pipe plug large enough for a 8D
nail to pass
through.

8. Using the same size drill, drill a hole through the rear side of the
pipe plug,
perpendicular to and intersecting witht he central firing pin
hole. This is going to be used
as a safety for the firing pin.

9. Push an 8D nail through the central firing pin hole and cut off flat
1/32 in. past the end
of the pipe plug or the end of the last 1 in. steel
washer.

10. Using a file, notch the firing pin nail where the side hole intersects
with the central
firing pin hole and file the end round.

11. Using a serparate 8D nail, push it through the side hole. Note where
it intersents the
firing pin hole and file it flat, to half its normal
thickness, from that point until it
passes through the other side.

12. Insert the firing pin into the central firing pin hole, aligning the slot
in the firing
pin with he safety hole in the side of the pipe plug.

13. Insert the safety nail through the side hole so that it interlocks with
the central firing
pin. Bend the protruding end of the safety nail
around the end pipe plug to ensure that the
firing pin is locked into
place.

14. Insert steel washers, if necessary, and screw end plug tightly into pipe
coupler.

15. Bend a 4 in. metal strap into an "L" shape and drill a hole for the side
pivot
screw to pass through. Notch the metal strap on the long side, 1/2
in. from the bend.

| <- 1 1/2 in.->|
_______________
|_____________ |
/| |

____/ | |
bend | |
| |
1/16 in.->| |<-
|_|

|.5
in|

|*| "*" = notch should go in 1/8 in.
_____ __
| | |– 1/2 in.

> | –
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| o | –

|_____| __|– 1/4 in.

|__|
|
1/4 in.

16. Position the metal strap on the stock sp that the top will hit the head of
the nail.
Attach to the stock using a wood pivot screw.

17. Place a screw on each side of the stock about 4 in. in front of the metal
strap. Pass
rubber bands through the notch in the metal strap and attach
to screw on each side of the
stock.

18. Two gas containment pistons should be made in the following manner:

A. Cut a 3/4 in. diameter wood dowel to a length of 1 1/2 in. Round the
forward edges
of the dowel off with file.

B. Attach a 3/4 in. diameter, 1/4 in. thick rubber or leather washer
to the rearend of
the wooden dowel with a thumb tack. If rubber
or leather of the proper thickness is not
available, the washer
can be built up to 1/4 in. thick with successive layers of thin

rubber or leather.

C. Cut a 3/4 in. diameter wine bottle cork to a length of 1 1/2 in.

D. Set both
pistons aside for later use.

19. A launching platform should be made in the following manner:

A. Drill a 1/2 in. hole approx. 1 in. deep in the center of the wood
block. The 1/2 in.
diameter, 30 in. long hard wooden dowel is to
fir into this hole.

B. Drill two 1/4 in. holes on opposite sides of the wooden support
block. These holes
should be drilled clear through the block for
bolts to pass through.

C. Using the supporting block as a template, mark the bolt holes on the
bottom of a
tin can which is large enought to hold either a fire
bottle or hand grenade, then drill the
two holes in the bottom of the
can. Secure the can to the supporting block by placing 1/4 in.
bolts
through the bottom of the can and the block, securing with nuts.

D. Push the 30 in. long, 1/2 in. diameter wooden dowel into the 1 in.
deep hole in the
bottom of the supporting block. Secure in place
by driving a nail through the supporting block
and into the center
of the wooden dowel.

20. Prepare a 12 gauge shotgun shell in the following manner:

A. Remove crimp from the shell with a pen knife. Pour shot from shell
and remove the
wads and plastic liner if present.

B. Empty the propellant onto a folded piece of paper. Divide the
propellant into
thirds. Replace 2/3 of the propellant back into
the shell case.

C. Replace the 12 gauge cardboard wads back into the shell casing. If
wads are not
available, stuff tissue paper or cotton into the shell
case and pack tightly.

How to Use
———-

1. To load:

A. Remoove the firing pin plug from the rear of the pipe coupler.

B. Insert the specially loaded 12 gauge shotgun into the rear end of
the pipe.

C. Insert steel washers if necessary and screw the pipe plug back into
the rear pipe
coupler until it seats against the base of the shell.

D. Cover the 3/4 in. wooden dowel (gas containment piston) with Vaseline
and insert in
the forward end of the barrel. Using the launching
platform as a ramrod, push the piston down
against the shotgun shell
in the rear of the launcher.

E. Cover the 3/4 in. diameter wine bottle cork with Vaseline and press
down against the
wooden piston.

F. Secure the 3/4 in. to 1/2 in. pipe reducer tightly to the forward
end of the pipe
barrel.

G. Insert the 1/2 in. x 30 in. wooden dowel launching platform into
the barrel through
the center hole of the pipe reducer and seat
it against the cork secondary gas seal.

H. Isert fire bottle, hand grenade, or pipe bombs into the tin can on
the end of the
launching platform.

Note: If a fire bottle is used, crumple paper and place in the bottom of the
can. wrap more paper around the fire bottle and insert into the can. Use
enough paper so the bottle will fit snugly.

2. To fire:

A. Place stock of launcher against the ground and position the launcher
at various
degrees of elevation, in relation to ground level, so that
variations of ranges can be
achieved.

B. Pull firing strap back with thumb. When ready to fire, release strap.

Chemical Fire bottle Sec. V, No. 1

This incendiary is self igniting on target impact.

Materials Source
——— ——

Sulfuric acid motor vehicles- batteries
materials processing,
industrial plants

gasoline motor fuel

potassium chlorate drug store

sugar food store

glass bottle with stopper (1 qt. approx.)

small bottle or jar with lid

rag or absorbent paper (paper towels, newpaper)

string or rubber bands

Procedure
———

1. Sulfuric acid must be concentrated. If battery acid or other dilute
acid is used,
concentrate it by boiling until dense white fumes are
given off. Container should be oven
glass or enamel-ware.

CAUTION: Sulfuric acid will burn skin and destroy clothing. If any is spilled,
wash it away with a large quantity of water. Fumes are also dangerous and
should not be inhaled.

2. Remove the acid from heat and allow to cool to room temperature.

3. Pour gasoline into the large (1 qt.) bottle until it is approx. 2/3 full.

4. Add concentrated sulfuric acid to gasoline slowly until the bottle
is filled to within 1 to
2 in. from the top. Place the stopper in the
mouth of the bottle.

5. Wash the outside of the bottle thoroughly with clear water.

CAUTION: If this is NOT done, the bottle may be dangerous to handle during use.

6. Wrap a clean cloth or several sheets of absorbent paper around the outside
of the bottle.
Tie with string ot fasten with rubber bands.

7. Dissolve 1/2 cup of potassium chlorate and 1/2 cup of sugar in one cup of
boiling water. />

8. Allow the solution to cool, pout into the small bottle and cap slightly.

CAUTION: Store this bottle separately from the other bottle.

How to Use
———-

1. Shake the small bottle to mix contents and pour onto the cloth or paper
around the large
bottle.

Bottle can be used wet or after solution has dried. However, when dry, the
sugar-Potassium nitrate mixture is very sensitive to spark or flame and should
be handled accordingly.

2. Throw ot launch the bottle. When the bottle breaks against a hard
surface (target) the
acid in the gasoline will react with the chlorate-
sugar mixture annd then ignite the
gasoline.

Igniter from book matches Sec. V, No. 2

This is a hot igniter made from paper book matches for use with molotov
cocktails and other incendiaries.

Materials
———

paper book matches

adhesive or friction tape

Procedure
———

1. Remove the staple(s) from match book and separate matches from cover.

2. Fold and tape one row of matches.

3. Shape the cover into a tube with striking surface on the inside and tape.
Make sure the
folded cover will fit tightly around the taped match heads.
Leave cover open at opposite end
for insertion of the matches.

4. Push the taped matches into the tube until the bottom ends are exposed
about 3.4 in.

5. Flatten and fold the open end of the tube so that it laps over about 1 in,;
tape in
place.

Use with Molotov Cocktail
————————-

Tap the "match end tab" of the igniter to the neck of the molotov cocktail.

Grasp the "cover end tab" and pull sharply or quickly to ignite.

General Use
———–

The book match igniter can be used by itself to ignite flammable liquids, fuse
cords, and other similar items requiring hot ignition.

CAUTION: Store matches and completed igniters in moistureproof containers such
as rubber or plastic bags until ready for use. Damp or wet paper book matches
will not ignite.

Mechanically Initiated fire bottle Sec. V, No. 3

The mechanically initiated fire bottle is an incendiary device which ignites when thrown against a
hd surface.

Materials
———

glass jar or short neck bottle with a leakproof lid or stopper

tin can or similar container just large enough to fit over the lid of the jar

coil spring (compression) approx. 1/2 the diameter of the can and 1 1/2 times
as long

gasoline

four (4) "blue tip" matches (I think they are called Ohio kitchen matches)

flat stick or piece of metal roughly 1/2 in. x 1/16 in. x 4 in.

wire or heavy twine

adhesive tape

Procedure
———

1. Draw or scratch two lines around the can- one 3/4 in. and the other 1 1/4
in. from the open
end.

2. Cut 2 slots on opposite sides of the tin can at the line farthest from
the open end. Make
slots large enough for the flat stick or piece
of metal to pass through.

3. Punch 2 small holes just below the rim of the open end of the can.

4. Tape blue tip matches together in pairs. The distance between the match
heads should equal
the inside diameter of the can. Two pairs are
sufficient.

5. Attach paired matches to second and third coils of the spring, using thin
wire.

6. Insert the end of the spring opposite the matches into the tin can.

7. Compress the spring until the end with the matches passes the slot in the
can. Pass the
flat stick or piece of metal through slots in can to hold
spring in place. This acts as a
safety device.

8. Puch many closely packed small holes between the lines marked on the can
to form a striking
surface for the matches. Be careful to not seriously
deform the can.

9. Fill the jar with gasoline and cap tightly.

10. Turn can over and place over the jar so that the safety stick rests on
the lid of the
jar.

11. Pass wire or twine around the bottom of the jar. Thread ends through
the holes in can and
bind tightly to jar.

12. Tape wire or cord to jar near the bottom.

How to Use
———-

1. Carefully withdraw flat safety stick.

2. Throw jar at hard surface.

CAUTION: DO NOT REMOVE SAFETY STICK UNTIL READY TO THROW FIRE BOTTLE. The
safety stick, when in place, prevents ignition of the fire bottle if it should
accidently be broken.

Gelled flame Fuels Sec. V, No. 4

Gelled or paste type fuels are often preferable to raw gasoline for use in
incediary devices such as fire bottles. This type fuel adheres more readily to
the target and produces greater heat concentration.

Several methods are shown for gelling gasoline using commonly avilable
materials. The methods are divided into the following catagories based on the
major ingredient:

4.1 Lye systems
4.2 Lye-alcohol
4.3 Soap-alcohol systems
4.4 Egg white
systems
4.5 Latex systems
4.6 Wax systems
4.7 Animal blood systems

I will type this one warning ONE TIME only!

CAUTION: Never at ANY time should you light up a cigarette while mixing flame
fuels! No Smoking! Go smokeless!

Lye Systems Sec. V, No. 4.1
Lye (also known as caustic soda or Sodium hydroxide) can be used in combination
with powdered rosin ot castor oil to gel gasoline for use as a flame fuel which
will adhere to target surfaces.

Note: This fuel is not suitable for use in the chemical (sulfuric acid) type of
fire bottle (Sec. V, No. 1). The acid will react with the lye and break down
the gel.

Materials
———

Parts by volume Ingredient How used Common source
————— ———- ——– ————-

60 gasoline motor fuel gas station

2 (flake) or lye drain cleaner, food, drug store
1 (powder) making soap

15 rosin manufacturing naval stores
paint & varnish industry

or

castor oil medicine food and drug stores

Procedure
———

1. Pour gasoline into jar, bottle or other container. (Do not use an aluminum
container.

2. If rosin is in cake form, crush into small pieces.

3. Add rosin or castor oil to the gasoline and stir for for about five (5)
minutes to mix
thoroughly.

4. In a second container (not aluminum) add lye to an equal volume of water
slowly while
stirring.

5. Add lye solution to the gasoline mix and stir until mixture thickens (about
1 minute). />

Note: The sample will eventually thicken to a very firm paste. This can be
thinned, if desired, by stirring additional gasoline.

Lye-Alcohol Systems Sec. V, No. 4.2

Lye (also known as caustic soad or Sodium hydroxide) can be used in combination
with alcohol and any of several fats to gel gasoline for use as a flame fuel.

Materials
———

Parts by volume Ingredient How Used Common source
————— ———- ——– ————-

60 gasoline motor fuel gas station

2 (flake) or lye drain cleaner food, drug store
1 (powder) making of soap

3 ethyl alcohol whiskey medicine, liquor store

Note: Methyl (wood) alcohol or isopropyl alcohol can be used, but they produce
softer gels.

14 tallow food, soap making fat rendered by cooking
the meat of animal

Note: The following can be substituted for the tallow:

A. wool grease (lanolin) (very good)- fat extracted from sheep wool.
B. castor oil
(good).
C. Any fish oil.
D. Butter or oleo margarine
E. Any vegetable oil (corn,
cottonseed, peanut, linseed, etc.)

It is necessary when using substitutes E and D to double the given amount of
fat and lye for satisfactory bodying.

Procedure
———

1. Pour gasoline into bottle, jar or other container. (Do not use an aluminum
container)

2. Add tallow or substitute to the gasoline and stir for about 1/2 min. to
dissolve fat.

3. Add alcohol to the gasoline mixture.

4. In a separate container (Not aluminum) slowly add lye to an equal amount
of water. Mixture
should be stirred constantly while adding lye.

5. Add lye solution to the gasoline mixture and stir occasionally until
thickened (about 1/2
hour).

Note: The mixture will eventually (1 to 2 days) thicken to a very firm paste.
This can be thinned, if desired, by stirring in additional gasoline.

Soap-Alcohol system Sec. V, No. 4.3

Common household soap can be used in combination with alcohol to gel gasoline
for use as a flame fuel which will adhere to taget surfaces.

Materials
———

Parts by volume Ingredient How used Common source
————— ———– ——– ————-

36 gasoline motor fuel gas station, cars

1 ethyl alcohol whiskey liquor, drug store

Note: Methyl alcohol or isopropyl alcohol can be substituted for the whiskey.

20 (powder) or laundry soap washing food store
28 (flake) clothes

Note: Unless the word "soap" actually appears somewhere on the container or
wrapper, a washing compound is probably a detergent. These cannot be used.

Procedure
———

1. If bar soap is used, carve into thin flakes using a knife.

2. Pour alcohol and gasoline into a jar, bottle or other containr and mix
thoroughly.

3. Add soap powder or flakes to gasoline-alcohol mix and stir occasionally
until thickened
(about 15 minutes).

Egg systems Sec. V, No. 4.4

The white of any bird egg can be used to gel gasoline for use as a flame fuel
which will adhere to target surface.

Materials
———

Parts by volume Ingredient How used Common source
————— ———- ——– ————-

85 gasoline motor fuel gas station

14 egg whites food food store, farm

Any one of the following:

1 table salt food sea water
natural brine, food str.

3 ground coffee food coffee plant
food store

3 dried tea leaves tea plant, food store

3 cocoa food cacao tree
food store

2 sugar sweetening sugar cane, food store

1 saltpeter pyrotechnics drug store
(potassium explosives natural deposts

nitrate) matches

1 epsom salts medicine natural deposits
mineral water kieserite
industrial procs.
drug, food store

2 washing soda washing cleaner food store
(sal soda) photography drug store

medicine photography store

1 1/2 baking soda baking food store
manufacture of drug store
beverages,

mineral water
and medicines

1 1/2 aspirin medicine drug, food store

Procedure
———

1. Separate the egg white from yolk. This can be done by breaking the egg
into a disk and
carefully removing the yolk with a spoon.

Note: Do not get the yellow egg yolk mixed into the egg white. If egg yolk
gets into the egg white, discard the egg.

2. Pour egg white into a jar, bottle, or other container and add gasoline.

3. Add the salt or other additive to the mixture and stir occasionally until
a gel forms
(about 5-10 minutes).

Note: A thicker gelled flame fuel can be obtained by putting the capped jar in
hot (65 degree C) water for about 1/2 hour and then letting them cool to room
temperature. (Do not heat the gelled fuel containing coffee).

Latex systems Sec. V, No. 4.5

Any milky while plant fluid is a potential source of latex which can be used to
gel gasoline.

Materials
———

Ingredient How used Common source
———- ——– ————-

gasoline motor fuel, solvent gas station, motor vehicle

latex, commercial paints, adhesives natural or from tree or
plant, rubber cement

One of the following acids:

acetic acid salad dressing food stores
(vinegar) developing film fermented apple cider
photographic supply

sulfuric acid storage batteries motor vehicles
(oil of vitriol) materials processing industrial plants

hydrochloric acid petroleum wells hardware store
(muriatic acid) pickling and metal industrial plants
cleaning
industrial processes

Note: If acids are not available, use acid salt (aluminum sulfates and
chlorides other than sodium or potassiu). The formic acid from crushed red ants
can also be used.

Procedure
———

1. With commercial rubber latex:

A. Place 7 parts by volume of latex and 92 parts by volume of gasoline
in bottle. Cap
bottle and shake to mix well.

B. Add 1 part by volume vinegar (or other acid) and shake until gel
forms.

2. With natural latex:

A. Natural latex should form lumps as it comes from the plant. If lumps
do not form,
add a small amount of acid to the latex.

B. Strain off the latex lumps and allow to dry in air.

C. Place 20 parts by volume of latex in bottle and add 80 parts by volume
of gasoline.
Cover bottles and allow to stand until a swollen gel
mass is obtained (2 to 3 days).

Wax systems Sec. V, No. 4.6

Any of several common waxes can be used to gel gasoline for use as a flame fuel
which will adhere to target surfaces.

Materials
———

Parts by volume Ingredient How Used Common source
————— ———- ——– ————-

80 gasoline motor fuel, gas station, vehicle
solvent

Any one of the following:

20 Ozocerite leather polish natural deposits
mineral wax sealing wax general stores /> fossil wax candles department store
ceresin wax crayons
waxed paper
textile
sizing

beeswax furniture and honeycomb of bee
floor waxes general store

artificial fruit department store
lithographing
wax paper
textile finish

candles

bayberry wax candles natural form
myrtle wax soaps myrica berries
leather polish
general store
medicine department store

Procedure
———

1. Obtaining wax from Natural sources: Plants and berries are potential
sources of natural
waxes. Place the plants and/or berries in boiling
water. The natural waxes will melt. Let the
water cool. The natural
waxes will form a solid layer on the water surface. Skim off the
solid
wax and let dry. With natural waxes which has suspended matter when
melted,
screen the wax through a cloth.

2. Melt the wax and pour into jar or bottle which has been placed in a hot
water bath.

3. Add gasoline to the bottle.

4. When wax has completely dissolved in the gasoline, allow the water bath to
cool slowly to
room temp.

Note: If a gel does not form, add additional wax, (up to 40 % by volume) and
repeat the above steps. if no gel forms with 40 % wax,, make a lye solution by
dissolving a small amount of lye (sodium hydroxide) in a equal amount of water.
Add this solution (1/2% by volume) to the gasoline wax mix and shake bottle
until get forms.

Animal blood systems Sec. V, No. 4.7

Animal blood can be used to gel gasoline for use as a flame fuel which will
adhere to target surfaces.

Materials
———

Parts by volume Ingredient How used Common source
————— ———- ——– ————-

68 gasoline motor fuel gas station, cars

30 animal blood food, medicine slaughter house
serum natural habitat

Any one of the following:

2 salt food, sea water
industrial natural brine
processes food store

ground coffee food coffee plant
beverage food store

dried tea leaves food
store

sugar sweetening sugar cane
food store

lime mortar from calcium carbonate
plaster hardware store
medicine drug store /> ceramics garden supply
steel making

baking soda baking food store
beverages drug store
industrail prcs.

epsom salts medicine drug store
mineral water natural deposits
food store

Procedure
———

1. Preparation of animal blood serum:

A. Slit animal’s jugular vein. Hang upside down to drain.

B. Place coagulated (lumpy) blood in a cloth or a screen and catch
the red fluid
(serum) that drains through.

C. Store in cool place if possible.

CAUTION: DO not get aged blood serum into an open cut. This can cause
infections.

2. Pour blood serum into jar, bottle, or other container and add gasoline.

3. Add the salt (or other additive) to the mixture and stir until a gel forms.

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• NITRIC ACID
• The Improvised Munitions Black Book, Section V (Part III)
• The Improvised Munitions Black Book, Section V (Part I)
• The Improvised Munitions Black Book, Section V (Part II)
• The Book of Destruction Part II