THE BIG BOOK OF MISCHIEF 1.1
THE BIG BOOK OF MISCHIEF 1.1
Preface
A couple of years ago, I began compiling a file filled with
information
from the world-famous BBS Ripco. The basis of this file was, of course, THE
TERRORIST’S HANDBOOK,an incredible book that was never published. Ripco fell
prey to Operation
Sundevil. I printed out two copies of this file: Both went
to friends. These are the only
copies of the original version of this file in
existence. I suffered a hard disk crash which
wiped out the subdirectory in
which my original file resided. Today, August 8th, 1990, at 1
AM, I found a
copy of The Terrorist’s Handbook on a BBS, and recombined it with some other
Care must be
taken to ensure that no law is broken when information is gained
or divulged. I have read
every word of this file, and swear that no article of
this document is illegal in any way.
The Editor
4/12/91 — New guideline: If you modify this file, please put the date
and
info about modifications in the revision history. This is to
keep the new versions
of the file in order, to aid updating.
Revision history:
1987-1989
Compilation of original file
Early 1990 Original file lost in crash
August 8, 1990 File
reborn as The Complete Terrorist
March 31, 1991 In February, I had a major loss of data, but
regained TCT
from a local BBS. I did some cosmetic work and killed some
redundancies,
and renamed the file to TBBOM. Total file size
is now about 172 printed pages. (You may wish
to print this
file out and bind it in a binder)
April 12, 1991 File revised by David
Richards on Ripco II. Some deletions
and many valuable additions. Message about new
additions
added to preface. I (The Editor) felt that the file should
have version
numbers, so, in light of the additions by
David Richards, the first volume number is 1.1.
THE BIG BOOK OF MISCHIEF
PART 1 – The Terrorist’s
Handbook – Self explanatory.
THE TERRORIST’S HANDBOOK
1.0 INTRODUCTION
Gunzenbomz Pyro-Technologies, a division of Chaos Industries (CHAOS), is
proud to
present this first edition of The Terrorist’s Handbook. First and
foremost, let it be stated
that Chaos Industries assumes no responsibilities
for any misuse of the information presented
in this publication. The purpose
of this is to show the many techniques and methods used by
those people in
this and other countries who employ terror as a means to political and
social
goals. The techniques herein can be obtained from public libraries, and can
usually be carried out by a terrorist with minimal equipment. This makes one
all the more
frightened, since any lunatic or social deviant could obtain this
information, and use it
against anyone. The processes and techniques herein
SHOULD NOT BE CARRIED OUT UNDER ANY
CIRCUMSTANCES!! SERIOUS HARM OR DEATH
COULD OCCUR FROM ATTEMPTING TO PERFORM ANY OF THE
METHODS IN THIS PUBLICATION.
THIS IS MERELY FOR READING ENJOYMENT, AND IS NOT INTENDED FOR
ACTUAL USE!!
Gunzenbomz Pyro-Technologies feels that it is important that everyone has
some
idea of just how easy it is for a terrorist to perform acts of terror; that is
the
reason for the existence of this publication.
1.1 Table of Contents
ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ
2.0 ……. BUYING EXPLOSIVES AND PROPELLANTS
2.01 …….. Black Powder
2.02 …….. Pyrodex
2.03 …….. Rocket Engine Powder
2.05 …….. Flash Powder
2.06 …….. Ammonium
Nitrate
2.1 ……. ACQUIRING CHEMICALS
2.11 …….. Techniques for Picking Locks
2.2 ……. LIST OF USEFUL HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND AVAILABILITY
2.3 ……. PREPARATION OF
CHEMICALS
2.31 …….. Nitric Acid
2.32 …….. Sulfuric Acid
2.33 ……..
Ammonium Nitrate
3.0 ……. EXPLOSIVE RECIPES
3.01 …….. Explosive Theory
3.1
……. IMPACT EXPLOSIVES
3.11 …….. Ammonium Triiodide Crystals
3.12 ……..
Mercury Fulminate
3.13 …….. Nitroglycerine
3.14 …….. Picrates
3.2 …….
LOW ORDER EXPLOSIVES
3.21 …….. Black Powder
3.22 …….. Nitrocellulose
3.23
…….. Fuel + Oxodizer mixtures
3.24 …….. Perchlorates
3.3 ……. HIGH ORDER
EXPLOSIVES
3.31 …….. R.D.X. (Cyclonite)
3.32 …….. Ammonium Nitrate
3.33
…….. ANFOS
3.34 …….. T.N.T.
3.35 …….. Potassium Chlorate
3.36 ……..
Dynamite
3.37 …….. Nitrostarch Explosives
3.38 …….. Picric Acid
3.39
…….. Ammonium Picrate (Explosive D)
3.40 …….. Nitrogen Trichloride
3.41 ……..
Lead Azide
3.5 ……. OTHER "EXPLOSIVES"
3.51 …….. Thermit
3.52
…….. Molotov Cocktails
3.53 …….. Chemical Fire Bottle
3.54 …….. Bottled Gas
Explosives
4.0 ……. USING EXPLOSIVES
4.1 ……. SAFETY
4.2 ……. IGNITION DEVICES
4.21 …….. Fuse Ignition
4.22 …….. Impact
Ignition
4.23 …….. Electrical Ignition
4.24 …….. Electro – Mechanical
Ignition
4.241 ……. Mercury Switches
4.242 ……. Tripwire Switches
4.243
……. Radio Control Detonators
4.3 ……. DELAYS
4.31 …….. Fuse Delays
4.32
…….. Timer Delays
4.33 …….. Chemical Delays
4.4 ……. EXPLOSIVE CONTAINERS
4.42 …….. Metal Containers
4.43 …….. Glass
Containers
4.44 …….. Plastic Containers
4.5 ……. ADVANCED USES FOR EXPLOSIVES
4.52 …….. Tube Explosives
4.53 …….. Atomized
Particle Explosions
4.54 …….. Lightbulb Bombs
4.55 …….. Book Bombs
4.56
…….. Phone Bombs
5.0 ……. SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR PROJECTILE WEAPONS
5.1 …….
PROJECTILE WEAPONS (PRIMITIVE)
5.11 …….. Bow and Crossbow Ammunition
5.12 ……..
Blowgun Ammunition
5.13 …….. Wrist Rocket and Slingshot Ammunition
5.2 …….
PROJECTILE WEAPONS (FIREARMS)
5.21 …….. Handgun Ammunition
5.22 …….. Shotguns
5.31 …….. .177 Caliber B.B Gun
Ammunition
5.32 …….. .22 Caliber Pellet Gun Ammunition
6.0 ……. ROCKETS AND
CANNONS
6.1 ……. ROCKETS
6.11 …….. Basic Rocket-Bomb
6.12 …….. Long
Range Rocket-Bomb
6.13 …….. Multiple Warhead Rocket-Bombs
6.2 …….. CANNONS
6.21 …….. Basic Pipe Cannon
6.22 …….. Rocket-Firing Cannon
7.0 …….
PYROTECHNICA ERRATA
7.1 ……… Smoke Bombs
7.2 ……… Colored Flames
7.3
……… Tear Gas
7.4 ……… Fireworks
7.41 …….. Firecrackers
7.42
…….. Skyrockets
7.43 …….. Roman Candles
8.0 ……. LISTS OF SUPPLIERS AND
FURTHER INFORMATION
9.0 ……. CHECKLIST FOR RAIDS ON LABS
10.0 …… USEFUL
PYROCHEMISTRY
11.0 …… ABOUT THE AUTHOR
2.0 BUYING EXPLOSIVES AND
PROPELLANTS
Almost any city or town of reasonable size has a gun store and a
pharmacy. These are two of the places that potential terrorists visit in order
to purchase
explosive material. All that one has to do is know something
about the non- explosive uses of
the materials. Black powder, for example, is
used in blackpowder firearms. It comes in varying
"grades", with each
different grade being a slightly different size. The grade of
black powder
depends on what the calibre of the gun that it is used in; a fine grade of
powder could burn too fast in the wrong caliber weapon. The rule is: the
smaller the grade,
the faster the burn rate of the powder.
2.01 BLACK POWDER
Black
powder is generally available in three grades. As stated before, the
smaller the grade, the
faster the powder burns. Burn rate is extremely
important in bombs. Since an explosion is a
rapid increase of gas volume in a
confined environment, to make an explosion, a quick-burning
powder is desirable.
The three common grades of black powder are listed below, along with the
usual
bore width (calibre) of what they are used in. Generally, the fastest burning
powder, the FFF grade is desirable. However, the other grades and uses are
listed below:
GRADE BORE WIDTH EXAMPLE OF GUN
ÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ
ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ
F .50 or greater model cannon; some rifles
FF .36 –
.50 large pistols; small rifles
FFF .36 or smaller pistols; derringers
The
FFF grade is the fastest burning, because the smaller grade has more
surface area or burning
surface exposed to the flame front. The larger grades
also have uses which will be discussed
later. The price range of black
powder, per pound, is about $8.50 – $9.00. The price is not
affected by the
grade, and so one saves oneself time and work if one buys the finer grade
of
powder. The major problems with black powder are that it can be ignited
accidentally
by static electricity, and that it has a tendency to absorb
moisture from the air. To safely
crush it, a bomber would use a plastic spoon
and a wooden salad bowl. Taking a small pile at a
time, he or she would apply
pressure to the powder through the spoon and rub it in a series of
strokes or
circles, but not too hard. It is fine enough to use when it is about as fine
as flour. The fineness, however, is dependant on what type of device one
wishes to make;
obviously, it would be impracticle to crush enough powder to
fill a 1 foot by 4 inch radius
pipe. Anyone can purchase black powder, since
anyone can own black powder firearms in
America.
2.02 PYRODEX
Pyrodex is a synthetic powder that is
used like black powder. It comes
in the same grades, but it is more expensive per pound.
However, a one pound
container of pyrodex contains more material by volume than a pound of
black
powder. It is much easier to crush to a very fine powder than black powder,
and it
is considerably safer and more reliable. This is because it will not
be set off by static
electricity, as black can be, and it is less inclined to
absorb moisture. It costs about
$10.00 per pound. It can be crushed in the
same manner as black powder, or it can be dissolved
in boiling water and
dried.
2.03 ROCKET ENGINE POWDER
One of
the most exciting hobbies nowadays is model rocketry. Estes is
the largest producer of model
rocket kits and engines. Rocket engines are
composed of a single large grain of propellant.
This grain is surrounded by a
fairly heavy cardboard tubing. One gets the propellant by
slitting the tube
length- wise, and unwrapping it like a paper towel roll. When this is
done,
the grey fire clay at either end of the propellant grain must be removed.
This is
usually done gently with a plastic or brass knife. The material is
exceptionally hard, and
must be crushed to be used. By gripping the grain on
the widest setting on a set of pliers,
and putting the grain and powder in a
plastic bag, the powder will not break apart and shatter
all over. This
should be done to all the large chunks of powder, and then it should be
crushed like black powder. Rocket engines come in various sizes, ranging from
1/4 A – 2T to
the incredibly powerful D engines. The larger the engine, the
more expensive. D engines come
in packages of three, and cost about $5.00 per
package. Rocket engines are perhaps the single
most useful item sold in
stores to a terrorist, since they can be used as is, or can be
cannibalized
for their explosive powder.
2.04 RIFLE/SHOTGUN POWDER
Rifle powder and shotgun powder are really the same from a practicle
standpoint. They are both
nitrocellulose based propellants. They will be
referred to as gunpowder in all future
references. Gunpowder is made by the
action of concentrated nitric and sulfuric acid upon
cotton. This material is
then dissolved by solvents and then reformed in the desired grain
size. When
dealing with gunpowder, the grain size is not nearly as important as that of
black powder. Both large and small grained gunpowder burn fairly slowly compared
to black
powder when unconfined, but when it is confined, gunpowder burns both
hotter and with more
gaseous expansion, producing more pressure. Therefore, the
grinding process that is often
necessary for other propellants is not necessary
for gunpowder. Gunpowder costs about $9.00
per pound. Any idiot can buy it,
since there are no restrictions on rifles or shotguns in the
U.S.
2.05 FLASH POWDER
Flash powder is a mixture of powdered zirconium
metal and various
oxidizers. It is extremely sensitive to heat or sparks, and should be
treated
with more care than black powder, with which it should NEVER be mixed. It is
sold in small containers which must be mixed and shaken before use. It is very
finely
powdered, and is available in three speeds: fast, medium, and slow. The
fast flash powder is
the best for using in explosives or detonators.
It burns very rapidly, regardless of
confinement or packing, with a hot
white "flash", hence its name. It is fairly
expensive, costing about $11.00. It
is sold in magic shops and theatre supply stores.
2.06 AMMONIUM NITRATE
Ammonium nitrate is a high explosive material that is
often used as a
commercial "safety explosive" It is very stable, and is difficult to
ignite
with a match. It will only light if the glowing, red-hot part of a match is
touching it. It is also difficult to detonate; (the phenomenon of detonation
will be explained
later) it requires a large shockwave to cause it to go high
explosive. Commercially, it is
sometimes mixed with a small amount of nitro-
glycerine to increase its sensitivity. Ammonium
nitrate is used in the "Cold-
Paks" or "Instant Cold", available in most
drug stores. The "Cold Paks" consist
of a bag of water, surrounded by a second
plastic bag containing the ammonium
nitrate. To get the ammonium nitrate, simply cut off the
top of the outside bag,
remove the plastic bag of water, and save the ammonium nitrate in a
well sealed,
airtight container, since it is rather hydroscopic, i.e. it tends to absorb
water from the air. It is also the main ingredient in many fertilizers.
2.1 ACQUIRING
CHEMICALS
The first section deals with getting chemicals legally. This section
deals with "procuring" them. The best place to steal chemicals is a college.
Many
state schools have all of their chemicals out on the shelves in the labs,
and more in their
chemical stockrooms. Evening is the best time to enter lab
buildings, as there are the least
number of people in the buildings, and most
of the labs will still be unlocked. One simply
takes a bookbag, wears a dress
shirt and jeans, and tries to resemble a college freshman. If
anyone asks what
such a person is doing, the thief can simply say that he is looking for
the
polymer chemistry lab, or some other chemistry-related department other than
the one
they are in. One can usually find out where the various labs and
departments in a building are
by calling the university. There are, of course
other techniques for getting into labs after
hours, such as placing a piece of
cardboard in the latch of an unused door, such as a back
exit. Then, all one
needs to do is come back at a later hour. Also, before this is done,
terrorists check for security systems. If one just walks into a lab, even if
there is someone
there, and walks out the back exit, and slip the cardboard in
the latch before the door
closes, the person in the lab will never know what
happened. It is also a good idea to observe
the building that one plans to rob
at the time that one plans to rob it several days before
the actual theft is
done. This is advisable since the would- be thief should know when and if
the
campus security makes patrols through buildings. Of course, if none of these
methods
are successful, there is always section 2.11, but as a rule, college
campus security is pretty
poor, and nobody suspects another person in the
building of doing anything wrong, even if they
are there at an odd hour.
2.11 TECHNIQUES FOR PICKING LOCKS
If it
becomes necessary to pick a lock to enter a lab, the world’s most
effective lockpick is
dynamite, followed by a sledgehammer. There are
unfortu- nately, problems with noise and
excess structural damage with these
methods. The next best thing, however, is a set of army
issue lockpicks.
These, unfortunately, are difficult to acquire. If the door to a lab
is locked,
but the deadbolt is not engaged, then there are other possibilities. The rule
here is: if one can see the latch, one can open the door. There are several
devices which
facilitate freeing the latch from its hole in the wall. Dental
tools, stiff wire ( 20 gauge ),
specially bent aluminum from cans, thin pocket-
knives, and credit cards are the tools of the
trade. The way that all these
tools and devices are uses is similar: pull, push, or otherwise
move the latch
out of its hole in the wall, and pull the door open. This is done by sliding
from the wall.
To make an aluminum-can lockpick, terrorists can use an aluminum
can and carefully cut off the
can top and bottom. Cut off the cans’ ragged ends.
Then, cut the open-ended cylinder so that
it can be flattened out into a single
long rectangle. This should then be cut into inch wide
strips. Fold the strips
in 1/4 inch increments (1). One will have a long quadruple-thick 1/4
inch wide
strip of aluminum. This should be folded into an L-shape, a J-shape, or a U-
shape. This is done by folding. The pieces would look like this:
(1)
|_______________________________________________________| | 1/4
|_______________________________________________________| | 1 inch 1/4
|_______________________________________________________| | 1/4
|_______________________________________________________| |
^
Fold along lines
to make a single quadruple-thick piece of aluminum. This
should then be folded to produce an
L,J,or U shaped device that looks like this:
________________________________________
/________________________________________|
| |
| | L-shaped
| |
| |
|_|
_____________________________
/ ___________________________|
| |
| | J-shaped
| |
| |________
\________|
_____________________
/
___________________|
| |
| |
| | U-shaped
| |
|
|____________________
\____________________|
All of these devices should
be used to hook the latch of a door and pull
the latch out of its hole. The folds in the
lockpicks will be between the door
and the wall, and so the device will not unfold, if it is
made properly.
Addendum 4/12/91
Another method of forced entry is to use
an automobile jack to force the
frame around the door out of shape, freeing the latch or
exposing it to the
above methods. This is possible because most door frames are designed with
a
slight amount of "give". Simply put the jack into position horizontally across
it may be
possible to remove the jack after shutting the door, which will
relock the door and leave few
signs of forced entry.
2.2 LIST OF USEFUL HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND THEIR
AVAILABILITY
Anyone can get many chemicals from hardware stores, supermarkets, and
compounds. A
would-be terrorist would merely need a station wagon and some
money to acquire many of the
chemicals named here.
Chemical Used In Available at
________ _______
____________
alcohol, ethyl * alcoholic beverages liquor stores
solvents (95%
min. for both) hardware stores
ammonia + CLEAR household ammonia
supermarkets/7-eleven
ammonium instant-cold paks, drug stores, nitrate
fertilizers medical supply stores
nitrous oxide pressurizing whip cream party supply
stores
poppers (like CO2 ctgs.) Head shops, The Alley
Belmont/Clark, Chgo
magnesium firestarters surplus/camping stores
lecithin vitamins pharmacies/drug
stores
mineral oil cooking, laxative supermarket/drug stores
mercury @
mercury thermometers supermarkets/hardware stores
sulfuric acid uncharged car batteries
automotive stores
glycerine ? pharmacies/drug stores
sulfur gardening
gardening/hardware store
charcoal charcoal grills supermarkets/gardening stores
sodium nitrate fertilizer gardening store
cellulose (cotton) first aid
drug/medical supply stores
strontium nitrate road flares surplus/auto stores,
bottled gas propane stoves
surplus/camping stores,
potassium permanganate water purification purification
plants
hexamine or hexamine stoves surplus/camping stores
methenamine
(camping)
nitric acid ^ cleaning printing printing shops
plates photography
stores
Iodine disinfectant (tinture) Pharmacy, OSCO
sodium perchlorate
solidox pellets hardware stores
(VERY impure) for cutting torches
notes: *
ethyl alcohol is mixed with methyl alcohol when it is used as a
solvent. Methyl alcohol is
very poisonous. Solvent alcohol must be at least
95% ethyl alcohol if it is used to make
mercury fulminate. Methyl alcohol may
prevent mercury fulminate from forming.
+
Ammonia, when bought in stores comes in a variety of forms. The pine
and cloudy ammonias
should not be bought; only the clear ammonia should be
used to make ammonium triiodide
crystals.
@ Mercury thermometers are becoming a rarity, unfortunately. They may be
less toxic
fillings. Mercury is also used in mercury switches, which are
available at electronics stores.
Mercury is a hazardous substance, and should
be kept in the thermometer or mercury switch
until used. It gives off mercury
vapors which will cause brain damage if inhaled. For this
reason, it is a
good idea not to spill mercury, and to always use it outdoors. Also, do not
^ Nitric acid is very
difficult to find nowadays. It is usually stolen
by bomb makers, or made by the process
described in a later section. A
desired concentration for making explosives about 70%.
& The iodine sold in drug stores is usually not the pure crystaline form
that is desired for producing ammonium triiodide crystals. To obtain the pure
form, it must
usually be acquired by a doctor’s prescription, but this can be
expensive. Once again, theft
is the means that terrorists result to.
2.3 PREPARATION OF CHEMICALS
There are several ways to make this most essential of all
acids for
explosives. One method by which it could be made will be presented. Once
again, be reminded that these methods SHOULD NOT BE CARRIED OUT!!
Materials:
Equipment:
ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ
sodium nitrate or adjustable heat
source
potassium nitrate
retort
distilled water
ice bath
concentrated
sulfuric acid stirring rod
collecting flask with stopper
2) Carefully
weigh out 58 grams of sodium nitrate, or 68 grams of potassium
nitrate. and add this to the
acid slowly. If it all does not dissolve,
carefully stir the solution with a glass rod until
it does.
3) Place the open end of the retort into the collecting flask, and place the
collecting flask in the ice bath.
4) Begin heating the retort, using low heat.
Continue heating until liquid
begins to come out of the end of the retort. The liquid that
forms is nitric
acid. Heat until the precipitate in the bottom of the retort is almost dry,
strongly, the
nitric acid will decompose as soon as it is formed. This can
result in the production of
highly flammable and toxic gasses that may
explode. It is a good idea to set the above
apparatus up, and then get away
from it.
Potassium nitrate could also be obtained
from store-bought black powder,
simply by dissolving black powder in boiling water and
filtering out the sulfur
and charcoal. To obtain 68 g of potassium nitrate, it would be
necessary to
dissolve about 90 g of black powder in about one litre of boiling water.
Filter
the dissolved solution through filter paper in a funnel into a jar until the
liquid that pours through is clear. The charcoal and sulfur in black powder are
insoluble in
water, and so when the solution of water is allowed to evaporate,
potassium nitrate will be
left in the jar.
2.32 SULFURIC ACID
Sulfuric acid is far too difficult to
make outside of a laboratory or
industrial plant. However, it is readily available in an
uncharged car
battery. A person wishing to make sulfuric acid would simply remove the top
of
a car battery and pour the acid into a glass container. There would probably
be
pieces of lead from the battery in the acid which would have to be removed,
either by boiling
or filtration. The concentration of the sulfuric acid can
also be increased by boiling it;
very pure sulfuric acid pours slightly faster
than clean motor oil.
2.33
AMMONIUM NITRATE
Ammonium nitrate is a very powerful but insensitive high-order
explosive.
It could be made very easily by pouring nitric acid into a large flask in an ice
ammonium
nitrate would be formed. After the materials have stopped reacting, one
would simply have to
leave the solution in a warm place until all of the water
and any unneutralized ammonia or
acid have evaporated. There would be a fine
powder formed, which would be ammonium nitrate. It
must be kept in an airtight
container, because of its tendency to pick up water from the air.
The crystals
formed in the above process would have to be heated VERY gently to drive off
the
remaining water.
3.0 EXPLOSIVE RECIPES
Once again,
persons reading this material MUST NEVER ATTEMPT TO PRODUCE
ANY OF THE EXPLOSIVES DESCRIBED
HEREIN. IT IS ILLEGAL AND EXTREMELY DANGEROUS
TO ATTEMPT TO DO SO. LOSS OF LIFE AND/OR LIMB
COULD EASILY OCCUR AS A RESULT
OF ATTEMPTING TO PRODUCE EXPLOSIVE MATERIALS.
These recipes are theoretically correct, meaning that an individual could
conceivably produce
the materials described. The methods here are usually
scaled-down industrial procedures.
3.01 EXPLOSIVE THEORY
An explosive is
any material that, when ignited by heat or shock,
undergoes rapid decomposition or oxidation.
This process releases energy that
is stored in the material in the form of heat and light, or
by breaking down
into gaseous compounds that occupy a much larger volume that the original
are displaced
by the expanding gasses. This expansion occurs at a speed
greater than the speed of sound, and
so a sonic boom occurs. This explains
the mechanics behind an explosion. Explosives occur in
several forms:
high-order explosives which detonate, low order explosives, which burn, and
High order explosives detonate. A detonation occurs only
in a high order
explosive. Detonations are usually incurred by a shockwave that passes
through a block of the high explosive material. The shockwave breaks apart
the molecular bonds
between the atoms of the substance, at a rate
approximately equal to the speed of sound
traveling through that material. In
a high explosive, the fuel and oxodizer are chemically
bonded, and the
shockwave breaks apart these bonds, and re-combines the two materials to
produce mostly gasses. T.N.T., ammonium nitrate, and R.D.X. are examples of
high order
explosives.
Low order explosives do not detonate; they burn, or undergo oxidation.
gaseous
products. Some low order materials burn at about the same speed under
pressure as they do in
the open, such as blackpowder. Others, such as
gunpowder, which is correctly called
nitrocellulose, burn much faster and
hotter when they are in a confined space, such as the
barrel of a firearm;
they usually burn much slower than blackpowder when they are ignited
in
unpressurized conditions. Black powder, nitrocellulose, and flash powder are
good
examples of low order explosives.
Primers are peculiarities to the explosive
field. Some of them, such as
mercury filminate, will function as a low or high order
explosive. They are
usually more sensitive to friction, heat, or shock, than the high or
low
explosives. Most primers perform like a high order explosive, except that
they are
much more sensitive. Still others merely burn, but when they are
confined, they burn at a
great rate and with a large expansion of gasses and a
shockwave. Primers are usually used in a
small amount to initiate, or cause to
decompose, a high order explosive, as in an artillery
shell. But, they are
also frequently used to ignite a low order explosive; the gunpowder in
a
bullet is ignited by the detonation of its primer.
3.1 IMPACT EXPLOSIVES
Impact explosives are often used as primers. Of the ones discussed here,
only mercury
fulminate and nitroglycerine are real explosives; Ammonium
triiodide crystals decompose upon
impact, but they release little heat and no
light. Impact explosives are always treated with
the greatest care, and even
the stupidest anarchist never stores them near any high or low
explosives.
3.11 AMMONIUM TRIIODIDE CRYSTALS
Ammonium triiodide
crystals are foul-smelling purple colored crystals
that decompose under the slightest amount
of heat, friction, or shock, if they
are made with the purest ammonia (ammonium hydroxide) and
iodine. Such
crystals are said to detonate when a fly lands on them, or when an ant walks
and abrasive
agents, so that the crystals will detonate when thrown,crushed,
or heated. Upon detonation, a
loud report is heard, and a cloud of purple
iodine gas appears about the detonation site.
Whatever the unfortunate
surface that the crystal was detonated upon will usually be ruined,
as some of
the iodine in the crystal is thrown about in a solid form, and iodine is
corrosive. It leaves nasty, ugly, permanent brownish-purple stains on
whatever it contacts.
Iodine gas is also bad news, since it can damage lungs,
and it settles to the ground and
stains things there also. Touching iodine
leaves brown stains on the skin that last for about
a week, unless they are
immediately and vigorously washed off. While such a compound would
have
little use to a serious terrorist, a vandal could utilize them in damaging
property. Or, a terrorist could throw several of them into a crowd as a
distraction, an action
which would possibly injure a few people, but frighten
almost anyone, since a small crystal
that not be seen when thrown produces a
rather loud explosion.
Ammonium triiodide
crystals could be produced in the following manner:
Materials Equipment
ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ
iodine crystals funnel and filter paper
clear ammonia
(ammonium hydroxide, two throw-away glass jars
for
the suicidal)
1) Place about two teaspoons of iodine into one of the glass jars.
The jars
must both be throw away because they will never be clean again.
2) Add
enough ammonia to completely cover the iodine.
3) Place the funnel into the other jar,
and put the filter paper in the
funnel. The technique for putting filter paper in a funnel is
taught in every
basic chemistry lab class: fold the circular paper in half, so that a
semi-circle is formed. Then, fold it in half again to form a triangle with
one curved side.
Pull one thickness of paper out to form a cone, and place
the cone into the funnel.
solution into
the paper in the funnel through the filter paper.
5) While the solution is being
filtered, put more ammonia into the first jar
to wash any remaining crystals into the funnel
as soon as it drains.
6) Collect all the purplish crystals without touching the brown
filter paper,
and place them on the paper towels to dry for about an hour. Make sure that
well detonate.
While they are still wet, divide the wet material into about
eight chunks.
7)
After they dry, gently place the crystals onto a one square inch piece of
duct tape. Cover it
with a similar piece, and gently press the duct tape
together around the crystal, making sure
not to press the crystal itself.
Finally, cut away most of the excess duct tape with a pair of
scissors, and
store the crystals in a cool dry safe place. They have a shelf life of about
away, since
they have a tendency to slowly decompose, a process which gives
off iodine vapors, which will
stain whatever they settle on. One possible way
to increase their shelf life is to store them
in airtight containers. To use
them, simply throw them against any surface or place them where
they will be
stepped on or crushed.
3.12 MERCURY FULMINATE
Mercury fulminate is perhaps one of the oldest known initiating
compounds. It can be
detonated by either heat or shock, which would make it of
infinite value to a terrorist. Even
the action of dropping a crystal of the
fulminate causes it to explode. A person making this
material would probably
use the following procedure:
MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ
mercury (5 g) glass stirring rod
concentrated nitric 100 ml beaker (2)
acid (35 ml)
adjustable heat
ethyl alcohol
(30 ml) source
distilled water blue litmus paper
funnel and filter
paper
1) In one beaker, mix 5 g of mercury with 35 ml of concentrated nitric
acid,
using the glass rod.
2) Slowly heat the mixture until the mercury is
dissolved, which is when the
solution turns green and boils.
3) Place 30 ml of
ethyl alcohol into the second beaker, and slowly and
carefully add all of the contents of the
first beaker to it. Red and/or
brown fumes should appear. These fumes are toxic and
flammable.
4) After thirty to forty minutes, the fumes should turn white, indicating
that
the reaction is near completion. After ten more minutes, add 30 ml of the
distilled
water to the solution.
5) Carefully filter out the crystals of mercury fulminate from
the liquid
solution. Dispose of the solution in a safe place, as it is corrosive and
toxic.
6) Wash the crystals several times in distilled water to remove as much
excess
acid as possible. Test the crystals with the litmus paper until they are
neutral.
This will be when the litmus paper stays blue when it touches the
wet crystals
7)
Allow the crystals to dry, and store them in a safe place, far away from
any explosive or
flammable material.
This procedure can also be done by volume, if the available
mercury
cannot be weighed. Simply use 10 volumes of nitric acid and 10 volumes of
ethanol to every one volume of mercury.
3.13 NITROGLYCERINE
Nitroglycerine is one of the most sensitive explosives, if it is not the
most sensitive.
Although it is possible to make it safely, it is difficult.
Many a young anarchist has been
killed or seriously injured while trying to
make the stuff. When Nobel’s factories make it,
many people were killed by
the all- to-frequent factory explosions. Usually, as soon as it is
made, it
is converted into a safer substance, such as dynamite. An idiot who attempts
to
make nitroglycerine would use the following procedure:
MATERIAL EQUIPMENT
ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ
distilled water eye-dropper
table salt
100 ml beaker
sodium bicarbonate 200-300 ml beakers (2)
concentrated
nitric ice bath container
acid (13 ml) ( a plastic bucket serves well )
concentrated sulfuric centigrade thermometer
acid (39 ml)
blue litmus paper
glycerine
1) Place 150 ml of distilled water into one of the 200-300 ml
beakers.
2) In the other 200-300 ml beaker, place 150 ml of distilled water and about
a
spoonful of sodium bicarbonate, and stir them until the sodium bicarbonate
dissolves.
Do not put so much sodium bicarbonate in the water so that some
remains undissolved.
adding table
salt. This will cause the ice to melt, lowering the overall
temperature.
4) Place
the 100 ml beaker into the ice bath, and pour the 13 ml of
concentrated nitric acid into the
100 ml beaker. Be sure that the beaker
will not spill into the ice bath, and that the ice bath
will not overflow
into the beaker when more materials are added to it. Be sure to have a
large enough ice bath container to add more ice. Bring the temperature of
the acid down to
about 20 degrees centigrade or less.
5) When the nitric acid is as cold as
stated above, slowly and carefully add
the 39 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid to the nitric
acid. Mix the two
acids together, and cool the mixed acids to 10 degrees centigrade. It is
a
good idea to start another ice bath to do this.
6) With the eyedropper, slowly
put the glycerine into the mixed acids, one
drop at a time. Hold the thermometer along the top
of the mixture where the
mixed acids and glycerine meet.
DO NOT ALLOW THE
TEMPERATURE TO GET ABOVE 30 DEGREES CENTIGRADE; IF
THE TEMPERATURE RISES ABOVE THIS
TEMPERATURE, RUN LIKE HELL!!!
The glycerine will start to nitrate immediately, and the
temperature will
immediately begin to rise. Add glycerine until there is a thin layer of
glycerine on top of the mixed acids. It is always safest to make any
explosive in small
quantities.
7) Stir the mixed acids and glycerine for the first ten minutes of
nitration,
adding ice and salt to the ice bath to keep the temperature of the solution in
nitroglycerine will form
on the top of the mixed acid solution, and the
concentrated sulfuric acid will absorb the
water produced by the reaction.
When the reaction is over, and when the
nitroglycerine is well below 30
degrees centigrade, slowly and carefully pour the solution of
nitroglycerine
and mixed acid into the distilled water in the beaker in step 1. The
nitroglycerine should settle to the bottom of the beaker, and the water-acid
solution on top
can be poured off and disposed of. Drain as much of the acid-
water solution as possible
without disturbing the nitroglycerine.
9) Carefully remove the nitroglycerine with a
clean eye-dropper, and place it
into the beaker in step 2. The sodium bicarbonate solution
will eliminate
much of the acid, which will make the nitroglycerine more stable, and less
with the litmus
paper until the litmus stays blue. Repeat this step if
necessary, and use new sodium
bicarbonate solutions as in step 2.
10) When the nitroglycerine is as acid-free as
possible, store it in a clean
container in a safe place. The best place to store
nitroglycerine is far
away from anything living, or from anything of any value. Nitroglycerine
can
explode for no apparent reason, even if it is stored in a secure cool place.
3.14 PICRATES
Although the procedure for the production of picric acid, or
trinitrophenol has not yet been given, its salts are described first, since
they are extremely
sensitive, and detonate on impact. By mixing picric acid
with metal hydroxides, such as sodium
or potassium hydroxide, and evaporating
the water, metal picrates can be formed. Simply obtain
picric acid, or
produce it, and mix it with a solution of (preferably) potassium hydroxide,
of
a mid range molarity. (about 6-9 M) This material, potassium picrate, is
impact-sensitive, and can be used as an initiator for any type of high
explosive.
3.2 LOW-ORDER EXPLOSIVES
There are many low-order explosives that can be purchased in
gun stores
and used in explosive devices. However, it is possible that a wise wise store
owner would not sell these substances to a suspicious-looking individual. Such
an individual
would then be forced to resort to making his own low-order
explosives.
3.21 BLACK
POWDER
First made by the Chinese for use in fireworks, black powder was first
used in weapons and explosives in the 12th century. It is very simple to
make, but it is not
very powerful or safe. Only about 50% of black powder is
converted to hot gasses when it is
burned; the other half is mostly very fine
burned particles. Black powder has one major
problem: it can be ignited by
static electricity. This is very bad, and it means that the
material must be
made with wooden or clay tools. Anyway, a misguided individual could
manufacture black powder at home with the following procedure:
MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
potassium clay grinding bowl
nitrate (75 g) and
clay grinder
or or
sodium wooden salad bowl
nitrate (75 g) and
wooden spoon
sulfur (10 g) plastic bags (3)
charcoal (15 g) 300-500 ml
beaker (1)
distilled water coffee pot or heat source
1)
Place a small amount of the potassium or sodium nitrate in the grinding
bowl and grind it to a
very fine powder. Do this to all of the potassium or
sodium nitrate, and store the ground
powder in one of the plastic bags.
2) Do the same thing to the sulfur and charcoal,
storing each chemical in a
separate plastic bag.
3) Place all of the finely
ground potassium or sodium nitrate in the beaker,
and add just enough boiling water to the
chemical to get it all wet.
4) Add the contents of the other plastic bags to the wet
potassium or sodium
nitrate, and mix them well for several minutes. Do this until there is
no
more visible sulfur or charcoal, or until the mixture is universally black.
5)
On a warm sunny day, put the beaker outside in the direct sunlight.
Sunlight is really the
best way to dry black powder, since it is never too
hot, but it is hot enough to evaporate the
water.
6) Scrape the black powder out of the beaker, and store it in a safe
container. Plastic is really the safest container, followed by paper. Never
store black powder
in a plastic bag, since plastic bags are prone to generate
static electricity.
3.22 NITROCELLULOSE
Nitrocellulose is usually called "gunpowder" or
"guncotton". It is more
stable than black powder, and it produces a much greater
volume of hot gas. It
also burns much faster than black powder when it is in a confined
space.
Finally, nitrocellulose is fairly easy to make, as outlined by the following
procedure:
MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ
cotton (cellulose) two (2) 200-300 ml beakers
concentrated funnel and filter paper
blue litmus paper
concentrated
sulfuric acid
distilled
water
1) Pour 10 cc of concentrated sulfuric acid into the beaker. Add to
this 10
cc of concentrated nitric acid.
2) Immediately add 0.5 gm of cotton, and
allow it to soak for exactly 3
minutes.
3) Remove the nitrocotton, and transfer
it to a beaker of distilled water to
wash it in.
4) Allow the material to dry,
and then re-wash it.
5) After the cotton is neutral when tested with litmus paper, it
is ready to
be dried and stored.
Addendum 4/12/91… true experience From
andrew at cmu.edu (internet)
> I used to make nitrocellulose, though. It was not
guncotton grade, because I
>didn’t have oleum (H2SO4 with dissolved SO3); nevertheless it
worked. At
>first I got my H2SO4 from a little shop in downtown Philadelphia, which sold
>cheap and
plentiful, it came with enough carbonate to clean up. I’d add KNO3
>and a little water (OK,
I’d add the acid to the water – but there was so
>little water, what was added to what made
little difference. It spattered
>concentrated H2SO4 either way). Later on, when I could
purchase the acids, I
>believe I used 3 parts H2SO4 to 1 part HNO3. For cotton, I’d use
cotton wool
>or cotton cloth.
>
>Runaway nitration was commonplace, but
it is usually not so disasterous with
>nitrocellulose as it is with nitroglycerine. For
some reason, I tried washing
>the cotton cloth in a solution of lye, and rinsing it well in
distilled
>water. I let the cloth dry and then nitrated it. (Did I read this somewhere?)
>quenched
the runaway reaction of cellulose.
>
>The product was washed thoroughly and
allowed to dry. It dissolved (or turned
>into mush) in acetone. It dissolved in
alcohol/ether.
>
>Warnings:
>
>All usual warnings regarding
strong acids apply. H2SO4 likes to spatter. When
>it falls on the skin, it destroys tissue
- often painfully. It dissolves all
>manner of clothing. Nitric also destroys skin, turning
it bright yellow in
>the process. Nitric is an oxidant – it can start fires. Both agents
will
>happily blind you if you get them in your eyes. Other warnings also apply.
>Not for the novice.
>
> Nitrocellulose decomposes very slowly on storage. The
decomposition is auto-
>catalyzing, and can result in spontaneous explosion if the material
is kept
>confined over time. The process is much faster if the material is not washed
>well enough. Nitrocellulose powders contain stabilizers such as diphenyl
>amine or
ethyl centralite. DO NOT ALLOW THESE TO COME INTO CONTACT WITH
>NITRIC ACID!!!! A small
amount of either substance will capture the small
>amounts of nitrogen oxides that result
from decomposition. They therefore
>inhibit the autocatalysis. NC eventually will decompose
in any case.
>
>Again, this is inherently dangerous and illegal in certain areas.
I got away
>with it. You may kill yourself and others if you try it.
>
>
-Larry
Commercially produced Nitrocellulose is stabilized by:
1.
Spinning it in a large centrifuge to remove the remaining acid, which is
recycled.
3. Boiling it in acidulated water
and washing it thoroughly with fresh water.
If the NC is to be used as smokeless powder
it is boiled in a soda solution,
then rinsed in fresh water.
The purer the acid
used (lower water content) the more complete the nitration
will be, and the more powerful the
nitrocellulose produced.
There are actually three forms of cellulose nitrate, only one
of which is
useful for pyrotechnic purposes. The mononitrate and dinitrate are not
explosive, and are produced by incomplete nitration. If nitration is allowed
to proceed to
complete the explosive trinatrate is formed.
CH OH CH ONO
| 2 | 2 2
| |
/H \ 3 /H \
-CH CH-O- –> -CH CH-O-
\H H/ H SO \H H/
| | | |
OH OH ONO ONO
2 2
CELLULOSE CELLULOSE
TRINITRATE
*End Addendum
3.23 FUEL-OXODIZER MIXTURES
There are nearly an infinite number of fuel-oxodizer mixtures that can be
produced by a
misguided individual in his own home. Some are very effective
and dangerous, while others are
safer and less effective. A list of working
fuel- oxodizer mixtures will be presented, but the
exact measurements of each
compound are debatable for maximum effectiveness. A rough estimate
will be
given of the percentages of each fuel and oxodizer:
oxodizer, % by weight
fuel, % by weight speed # notes
================================================================================
potassium
chlorate 67% sulfur 33% 5 friction/impact
sensitive; unstable
potassium chlorate
50% sugar 35% 5 fairly slow burning;
charcoal 15% unstable
potassium chlorate
50% sulfur 25% 8 extremely
magnesium or unstable!
aluminum dust 25%
potassium chlorate 67% magnesium or 8 unstable
aluminum dust 33%
sodium nitrate
65% magnesium dust 30% ? unpredictable
sulfur 5% burn rate
potassium
permanganate 60% glycerine 40% 4 delay before
ignition depends
WARNING: IGNITES
SPONTANEOUSLY WITH GLYCERINE!!! upon grain size
potassium permanganate 67% sulfur 33% 5
unstable
potassium permangenate 60% sulfur 20% 5 unstable
magnesium or
aluminum dust 20%
potassium permanganate 50% sugar 50% 3 ?
potassium
nitrate 75% charcoal 15% 7 this is
sulfur 10% black powder!
potassium nitrate
60% powdered iron 1 burns very hot
or magnesium 40%
Oxidizer, % by
weight fuel, % by weight speed # notes
================================================================================
potassium
chlorate 75% phosphorus 8 used to make strike-
sesquisulfide 25% anywhere matches
and small amount of space
shuttle
iron oxide
potassium perchlorate 67% magnesium or 10 flash powder
(sodium perchlorate) aluminum dust 33%
potassium perchlorate 60% magnesium or 8
alternate
(sodium perchlorate) aluminum dust 20% flash powder
sulfur 20%
barium nitrate 30% aluminum dust 30% 9 alternate
potassium perchlorate 30% flash powder
barium peroxide 90% magnesium dust 5% 10 alternate
aluminum dust 5% flash powder
potassium perchlorate 50% sulfur 25% 8 slightly
magnesium or unstable
aluminum
dust 25%
potassium chlorate 67% red phosphorus 27% 7 very unstable
calcium
carbonate 3% sulfur 3% impact sensitive
potassium permanganate 50% powdered sugar 25% 7
unstable;
aluminum or ignites if
magnesium dust 25% it gets wet!
potassium
chlorate 75% charcoal dust 15% 6 unstable
sulfur 10%
================================================================================
NOTE:
Mixtures that uses substitutions of sodium perchlorate for potassium
perchlorate become
moisture-absorbent and less stable.
The higher the speed number, the faster the
fuel-oxodizer mixture burns
AFTER ignition. Also, as a rule, the finer the powder, the faster
the rate of
burning.
As one can easily see, there is a wide variety of
fuel-oxodizer mixtures
that can be made at home. By altering the amounts of fuel and
oxodizer(s),
different burn rates can be achieved, but this also can change the sensitivity
3.24 PERCHLORATES
As a rule, any oxidizable material
that is treated with perchloric acid
will become a low order explosive. Metals, however, such
as potassium or
sodium, become excellent bases for flash-type powders. Some materials that
sodium
perchlorate, simply acquire the hydroxide of that metal, e.g. sodium or
potassium hydroxide.
It is a good idea to test the material to be treated
with a very small amount of acid, since
some of the materials tend to react
explosively when contacted by the acid. Solutions of
sodium or potassium
hydroxide are ideal.
3.3 HIGH-ORDER EXPLOSIVES
High order explosives can be made in the home without too much
difficulty. The main problem is
acquiring the nitric acid to produce the high
explosive. Most high explosives detonate because
their molecular structure is
made up of some fuel and usually three or more NO2 ( nitrogen
dioxide )
molecules. T.N.T., or Tri-Nitro-Toluene is an excellent example of such a
material. When a shock wave passes through an molecule of T.N.T., the
nitrogen dioxide bond is
broken, and the oxygen combines with the fuel, all in
a matter of microseconds. This accounts
for the great power of nitrogen-based
explosives. Remembering that these procedures are NEVER
TO BE CARRIED OUT,
several methods of manufacturing high-order explosives in the home are
listed.
3.31 R.D.X.
R.D.X., also called cyclonite, or composition C-1
(when mixed with
plasticisers) is one of the most valuable of all military explosives. This
is
because it has more than 150% of the power of T.N.T., and is much easier to
detonate.
It should not be used alone, since it can be set off by a not-too
severe shock. It is less
sensitive than mercury fulminate, or nitroglycerine,
but it is still too sensitive to be used
alone. R.D.X. can be made by the
surprisingly simple method outlined hereafter. It is much
easier to make in
the home than all other high explosives, with the possible exception of
MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ
ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ
hexamine 500 ml beaker
or
methenamine glass stirring
rod
fuel tablets (50 g)
funnel and filter paper
concentrated
nitric acid
(550 ml) ice bath container
(plastic bucket)
distilled water
centigrade
thermometer
table salt
blue litmus paper
ice
ammonium nitrate
1) Place the beaker in the ice bath, (see section 3.13, steps 3-4) and carefully
pour
550 ml of concentrated nitric acid into the beaker.
2) When the acid has cooled to
below 20 degrees centigrade, add small amounts
of the crushed fuel tablets to the beaker. The
temperature will rise, and
it must be kept below 30 degrees centigrade, or dire consequences
could
result. Stir the mixture.
3) Drop the temperature below zero degrees
centigrade, either by adding more
ice and salt to the old ice bath, or by creating a new ice
bath. Or,
ammonium nitrate could be added to the old ice bath, since it becomes cold
when it is put in water. Continue stirring the mixture, keeping the
temperature below zero
degrees centigrade for at least twenty minutes
4) Pour the mixture into a litre of
crushed ice. Shake and stir the mixture,
and allow it to melt. Once it has melted, filter out
the crystals, and
dispose of the corrosive liquid.
5) Place the crystals into one
half a litre of boiling distilled water.
Filter the crystals, and test them with the blue
litmus paper. Repeat steps
4 and 5 until the litmus paper remains blue. This will make the
crystals
more stable and safe.
6) Store the crystals wet until ready for use.
Allow them to dry completely
using them. R.D.X. is not stable enough to use alone as an
explosive.
7) Composition C-1 can be made by mixing 88.3% R.D.X. (by weight) with
11.1%
mineral oil, and 0.6% lecithin. Kneed these material together in a plastic
bag.
This is a good way to desensitize the explosive.
H.M.X. is a mixture of
T.N.T. and R.D.X.; the ratio is 50/50, by weight.
it is not as sensitive, and is almost as
powerful as straight R.D.X.
9) By adding ammonium nitrate to the crystals of R.D.X.
after step 5, it
should be possible to desensitize the R.D.X. and increase its power, since
nitrate could also
be added; a small quantity is sufficient to stabilize the
R.D.X.
10) R.D.X.
detonates at a rate of 8550 meters/second when it is compressed to a
density of 1.55 g/cubic
cm.
3.32 AMMONIUM NITRATE
Ammonium nitrate could be made by a terrorist
according to the hap-hazard
method in section 2.33, or it could be stolen from a construction
site, since
it is usually used in blasting, because it is very stable and insensitive to
shock and heat. A terrorist could also buy several Instant Cold-Paks from a
drug store or
medical supply store. The major disadvantage with ammonium
nitrate, from a terrorist’s point
of view, would be detonating it. A rather
powerful priming charge must be used, and usually
with a booster charge. The
diagram below will explain.
_________________________________________
| | |
________| | |
| | T.N.T.| ammonium
nitrate |
|primer |booster| |
|_______| | |
| | |
|_______|_______________________________|
The primer explodes, detonating the T.N.T.,
which detonates, sending a
tremendous shockwave through the ammonium nitrate, detonating
it.
3.33 ANFOS
ANFO is an acronym for Ammonium Nitrate – Fuel Oil
Solution. An ANFO
solves the only other major problem with ammonium nitrate: its tendency
to
pick up water vapor from the air. This results in the explosive failing to
detonate
when such an attempt is made. This is rectified by mixing 94% (by
weight) ammonium nitrate
with 6% fuel oil, or kerosene. The kerosene keeps
the ammonium nitrate from absorbing moisture
from the air. An ANFO also
requires a large shockwave to set it off.
*
Addendum From hayes.ims.alaska.edu (internet)
>
> Lately there was been a lot said
about various ANFO mixtures. These are
>mixtures of Ammonium Nitrate with Fuel Oil. This
forms a reasonably powerful
>commercial explosive, with its primary benifit being the fact
that it is
>cheap. Bulk ANFO should run somewhere around 9-12 cents the pound. This is
>To keep
the cost down, it is frequently mixed at the borehole by a bulk
>truck, which has a
pneumatic delivery hopper of AN prills (thats pellets to
>most of the world) and a tank of
fuel oil. It is strongly recommended that a
>dye of some sort, preferably red be added to
the fuel oil to make it easier
>to distinguish treated AN explosive from untreated
oxidizer.
>
> ANFO is not without its problems. To begin with, it is not that
sensitive
>to detonation. Number eight caps are not reliable when used with ANFO.
>Booster charges must be used to avoid dud blast holes. Common boosters
>include sticks
of various dynamites, small pours of water gel explosives,
>dupont’s detaprime cast
boosters, and Atlas’s power primer cast explosive.
>The need to use boosters raises the
cost. Secondly, ANFO is very water
>susceptable. It dissolves in it, or absorbes it from
the atmosphere, and
>becomes quite worthless real quick. It must be protected from water
with
>borehole liners, and still must be shot real quick. Third, ANFO has a low
>density, somewhere around .85. This means ANFO sacks float, which is no
>good, and
additionally, the low density means the power is somewhat low.
>Generally, the more weight
of explosive one can place in a hole, the more
>effective. ANFO blown into the hole with a
pneumatic system fractures as it
>is places, raising the density to about .9 or .92. The
delivery system adds
>to the cost, and must be anti static in nature. Aluminum is added to
some
>commercial, cartridge packaged ANFOs to raise the density—this also raises
>power considerable, and a few of these mixtures are reliablly cap sensitive.
>
> Now than, for formulations. An earlier article mentioned 2.5 kilos of
>ammonium
nitrate, and I believe 5 to 6 liters of diesel. This mixture is
>extremely over fueled, and
I’d be surprised if it worked. Dupont recommends
>a AN to FO ratio of 93% AN to 7% FO by
weight. Hardly any oil at all. More
>oil makes the mixture less explosive by absorbing
detonation energy, and
>excess fuel makes detonation byproducts health hazzards as the
mixture is
>oxygen poor. Note that commercial fertilizer products do not work as well as
>various
materials meant to seal them from moisture, which keep the oil from
>being absorbed.
> Another problem with ANFO: for reliable detonation, it needs confinement,
>either from a casing, borehole, etc, or from the mass of the charge. Thus,
>a pile of
the stuff with a booster in it is likely to scatter and burn rather
>than explode when the
booster is shot. In boreholes, or reasonable strong
>casings (cardboard, or heavy plastic
film sacks) the stuff detonated quite
>well. So will big piles. Thats how the explosive
potential was discovered:
>a small oil freighter rammed a bulk chemical ship. Over several
hours the
>cargoes intermixed to some degree, and reached critical mass. Real big
>bang. A useful way to obtain the containment needed is to replace the fuel
>oil with a
wax fuel. Mix the AN with just enough melted wax to form a
>cohesive mixture, mold into
shape. The wax fuels, and retains the mixture.
>This is what the US military uses as a man
placed cratering charge. The
>military literature states this can be set off by a blasting
cap, but it
>is important to remember the military blasting caps are considerable more
>and
thus a strong cap (maybe 70-80 percent stronger than commercial). They
>also tend to go
overboard when calculating demolition charges…., but then
>hey, who doesn’t….
>
> Two manuals of interest: Duponts "Blaster’s Handbook", a $20 manual
>mainly useful for rock and seismographic operations. Atlas’s "Powder Manual"
>or "Manual of Rock Blasting" (I forget the title, its in the office). This
>is a $60 book, well worth the cash, dealing with the above two topics, plus
>demolitions, and non-quarry blasting.
>
> Incidently, combining fuel oil and
ammonium nitrate constitutes the
>manufacture of a high explosive, and requires a federal
permit to manufacture
>and store. Even the mines that mix it on site require the permit
to
>manufacture. Those who don’t manufacture only need permits to store. Those
>who don’t store need no permits, which includes most of us: anyone, at least
>in the US
may purchase explosives, provided they are 21 or older, and have no
>criminal record. Note
they ought to be used immediately, because you do need
>a liscence to store. Note also that
commercial explosives contain quantities
>of tracing agents, which make it real easy for
the FBI to trace the explosion
>to the purchaser, so please, nobody blow up any banks,
orphanages, or old
>folks homes, okay.
>
> Dean Syta, Civil Engineer at
large.
*End Addendum
3.34 T.N.T.
T.N.T., or
Tri-Nitro-Toluene, is perhaps the second oldest known high
explosive. Dynamite, of course, was
the first. It is certainly the best known
high explosive, since it has been popularized by
early morning cartoons. It is
the standard for comparing other explosives to, since it is the
most well
known. In industry, a T.N.T. is made by a three step nitration process that is
designed to conserve the nitric and sulfuric acids which are used to make the
product. A
terrorist, however, would probably opt for the less economical one
step method. The one step
process is performed by treating toluene with very
strong (fuming) sulfuric acid. Then, the
sulfated toluene is treated with very
strong (fuming) nitric acid in an ice bath. Cold water
is added the solution,
and it is filtered.
3.35 POTASSIUM CHLORATE
Potassium chlorate itself cannot be made in the home, but it can be
obtained from labs.
If potassium chlorate is mixed with a small amount of
vaseline, or other petroleum jelly, and
a shockwave is passed through it, the
material will detonate with slightly more power than
black powder. It must,
however, be confined to detonate it in this manner. The procedure for
making
such an explosive is outlined below:
MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ
potassium chlorate zip-lock plastic bag
(9 parts,
by volume)
petroleum jelly clay grinding bowl
(vaseline) or
(1 part, by
volume) wooden bowl and wooden spoon
1) Grind the potassium chlorate in the grinding
bowl carefully and slowly,
until the potassium chlorate is a very fine powder. The finer that
it is
powdered, the faster (better) it will detonate.
2) Place the powder into
the plastic bag. Put the petroleum jelly into the
plastic bag, getting as little on the sides
of the bag as possible, i.e. put
the vaseline on the potassium chlorate powder.
3) Close the bag, and kneed the materials together until none of the
potassium chlorate is dry
powder that does not stick to the main glob. If
necessary, add a bit more petroleum jelly to
the bag.
4) The material must me used within 24 hours, or the mixture will react to
is harmless, and
releases no heat or dangerous products.
3.36 DYNAMITE
The name dynamite
comes from the Greek word "dynamis", meaning power.
Dynamite was invented by Nobel
shortly after he made nitroglycerine. It was
made because nitroglycerine was so dangerously
sensitive to shock. A misguided
individual with some sanity would, after making nitroglycerine
(an insane act)
would immediately convert it to dynamite. This can be done by adding
various
materials to the nitroglycerine, such as sawdust. The sawdust holds a large
weight of nitroglycerine per volume. Other materials, such as ammonium nitrate
could be added,
and they would tend to desensitize the explosive, and increase
the power. But even these
nitroglycerine compounds are not really safe.
3.37 NITROSTARCH EXPLOSIVES
Nitrostarch explosives are simple to make, and are fairly powerful. All
that need be done is
treat various starches with a mixture of concentrated
nitric and sulfuric acids. 10 ml of
concentrated sulfuric acid is added to 10
ml of concentrated nitric acid. To this mixture is
added 0.5 grams of starch.
Cold water is added, and the apparently unchanged nitrostarch is
filtered out.
Nitrostarch explosives are of slightly lower power than T.N.T., but they are
3.38 PICRIC ACID
Picric acid, also known
as Tri-Nitro-Phenol, or T.N.P., is a military
explosive that is most often used as a booster
charge to set off another less
sensitive explosive, such as T.N.T. It another explosive that
is fairly
simple to make, assuming that one can acquire the concentrated sulfuric and
nitric acids. Its procedure for manufacture is given in many college
chemistry lab manuals,
and is easy to follow. The main problem with picric
acid is its tendency to form dangerously
sensitive and unstable picrate salts,
such as potassium picrate. For this reason, it is
usually made into a safer
form, such as ammonium picrate, also called explosive D. A social
deviant
would probably use a formula similar to the one presented here to make picric
acid.
MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ
phenol (9.5 g) 500 ml flask
concentrated adjustable heat source
sulfuric acid
(12.5 ml)
1000 ml beaker
concentrated nitric or other container
acid (38 ml)
suitable for boiling in
distilled water filter paper
and funnel
glass stirring rod
1) Place 9.5 grams of phenol into the 500 ml flask, and
carefully add 12.5
ml of concentrated sulfuric acid and stir the mixture.
2) Put
400 ml of tap water into the 1000 ml beaker or boiling container and
bring the water to a
gentle boil.
3) After warming the 500 ml flask under hot tap water, place it in the
boiling
water, and continue to stir the mixture of phenol and acid for about thirty
minutes. After thirty minutes, take the flask out, and allow it to cool for
about five
minutes.
4) Pour out the boiling water used above, and after allowing the container
to
cool, use it to create an ice bath, similar to the one used in section 3.13,
steps
3-4. Place the 500 ml flask with the mixed acid an phenol in the ice
bath. Add 38 ml of
concentrated nitric acid in small amounts, stirring the
mixture constantly. A vigorous but
"harmless" reaction should occur. When
the mixture stops reacting vigorously, take
the flask out of the ice bath.
5) Warm the ice bath container, if it is glass, and then
begin boiling more
tap water. Place the flask containing the mixture in the boiling water,
and
heat it in the boiling water for 1.5 to 2 hours.
6) Add 100 ml of cold
distilled water to the solution, and chill it in an ice
bath until it is cold.
7) Filter out the yellowish-white picric acid crystals by pouring the solution
through the
filter paper in the funnel. Collect the liquid and dispose of
it in a safe place, since it is
corrosive.
Wash out the 500 ml flask with distilled water, and put the contents of
the
filter paper in the flask. Add 300 ml of water, and shake vigorously.
9)
Re-filter the crystals, and allow them to dry.
10) Store the crystals in a safe place
in a glass container, since they will
react with metal containers to produce picrates that
could explode
spontaneously.
3.39 AMMONIUM PICRATE
Ammonium
picrate, also called Explosive D, is another safety explosive.
It requires a substantial shock
to cause it to detonate, slightly less than
that required to detonate ammonium nitrate. It is
much safer than picric
acid, since it has little tendency to form hazardous unstable salts
when
placed in metal containers. It is simple to make from picric acid and clear
household ammonia. All that need be done is put the picric acid crystals into
a glass
container and dissolve them in a great quantity of hot water. Add
clear household ammonia in
excess, and allow the excess ammonia to evaporate.
The powder remaining should be ammonium
picrate.
3.40 NITROGEN TRICHLORIDE
Nitrogen trichloride, also known
as chloride of azode, is an oily yellow
liquid. It explodes violently when it is heated above
60 degrees celsius, or
when it comes in contact with an open flame or spark. It is fairly
simple to
produce.
1) In a beaker, dissolve about 5 teaspoons of ammonium nitrate
in water. Do
not put so much ammonium nitrate into the solution that some of it remains
undissolved in the bottom of the beaker.
2) Collect a quantity of chlorine gas in a
second beaker by mixing
hydrochloric acid with potassium permanganate in a large flask with
a
stopper and glass pipe.
3) Place the beaker containing the chlorine gas upside
down on top of the
beaker containing the ammonium nitrate solution, and tape the beakers
together. Gently heat the bottom beaker. When this is done, oily yellow
droplets will begin to
form on the surface of the solution, and sink down
to the bottom. At this time, remove the
heat source immediately.
Alternately, the chlorine can be bubbled through the ammonium
nitrate
solution, rather than collecting the gas in a beaker, but this requires
timing
and a stand to hold the beaker and test tube.
The chlorine gas can also be mixed with
anhydrous ammonia gas, by gently
heating a flask filled with clear household ammonia. Place
the glass tubes
from the chlorine-generating flask and the tube from the ammonia-generating
4) Collect the yellow droplets with an
eyedropper, and use them immediately,
since nitrogen trichloride decomposes in 24 hours.
3.41 LEAD AZIDE
Lead Azide is a material that is often used as a
booster charge for other
explosive, but it does well enough on its own as a fairly sensitive
explosive.
It does not detonate too easily by percussion or impact, but it is easily
detonated by heat from an igniter wire, or a blasting cap. It is simple to
produce, assuming
that the necessary chemicals can be procured.
By dissolving sodium azide and lead
acetate in water in separate beakers,
the two materials are put into an aqueous state. Mix the
two beakers
together, and apply a gentle heat. Add an excess of the lead acetate solution,
stops forming.
Filter off the solution, and wash the precipitate in hot water. The
precipitate is
lead azide, and it must be stored wet for safety. If lead
acetate cannot be found, simply
acquire acetic acid, and put lead metal in it.
Black powder bullets work well for this
purpose.
3.5 OTHER "EXPLOSIVES"
The remaining section covers the
other types of materials that can be
used to destroy property by fire. Although none of the
materials presented
here are explosives, they still produce explosive-style results.
Thermite is a fuel-oxodizer mixture that is used to generate
tremendous
amounts of heat. It was not presented in section 3.23 because it does not
react nearly as readily. It is a mixture of iron oxide and aluminum, both
finely powdered.
When it is ignited, the aluminum burns, and extracts the
oxygen from the iron oxide. This is
really two very exothermic reactions that
produce a combined temperature of about 2200 degrees
C. This is half the heat
produced by an atomic weapon. It is difficult to ignite, however, but
when it
is ignited, it is one of the most effective firestarters around.
MATERIALS
ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ
powdered aluminum (10 g)
powdered iron
oxide (10 g)
1) There is no special procedure or equipment required to make thermit.
homogenous as possible.
The ratio of iron oxide to aluminum is 50% / 50% by
weight, and be made in greater or lesser
amounts.
2) Ignition of thermite can be accomplished by adding a small amount
of
potassium chlorate to the thermite, and pouring a few drops of sulfuric acid
on it.
This method and others will be discussed later in section 4.33. The
other method of igniting
thermite is with a magnesium strip. Finally, by
using common sparkler-type fireworks placed in
the thermit, the mixture can
be ignited.
3.52 MOLOTOV COCKTAILS
exclusively used
by terrorists worldwide. They are extremely simple to make,
and can produce devastating
results. By taking any highly flammable material,
such as gasoline, diesel fuel, kerosene,
ethyl or methyl alcohol, lighter
fluid, turpentine, or any mixture of the above, and putting
it into a large
glass bottle, anyone can make an effective firebomb. After putting the
flammable liquid in the bottle, simply put a piece of cloth that is soaked in
the liquid in
the top of the bottle so that it fits tightly.
Then, wrap some of the cloth around the
neck and tie it, but be sure to leave
a few inches of lose cloth to light. Light the exposed
cloth, and throw the
bottle. If the burning cloth does not go out, and if the bottle breaks
on
impact, the contents of the bottle will spatter over a large area near the
site of
impact, and burst into flame.
Flammable mixtures such as kerosene and motor oil should
be mixed with a more
volatile and flammable liquid, such as gasoline, to insure ignition. A
mixture
such as tar or grease and gasoline will stick to the surface that it strikes,
and burn hotter, and be more difficult to extinguish. A mixture such as this
must be shaken
well before it is lit and thrown
3.53 CHEMICAL FIRE BOTTLE
The
chemical fire bottle is really an advanced molotov cocktail. Rather
than using the burning
cloth to ignite the flammable liquid, which has at best
a fair chance of igniting the liquid,
the chemical fire bottle utilizes the
very hot and violent reaction between sulfuric acid and
potassium chlorate.
When the container breaks, the sulfuric acid in the mixture of gasoline
sprays
onto the paper soaked in potassium chlorate and sugar. The paper, when struck
by
the acid, instantly bursts into a white flame, igniting the gasoline. The
chance of failure to
ignite the gasoline is less than 2%, and can be reduced
to 0%, if there is enough potassium
chlorate and sugar to spare.
MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ
ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ
potassium chlorate glass bottle
(2 teaspoons) (12 oz.)
sugar (2 teaspoons) cap for bottle, w/plastic inside
with plastic inside
conc. sulfuric acid (4 oz.) cooking pan with raised edges
gasoline (8 oz.) paper
towels
glass or plastic cup and spoon
1) Test the cap of the bottle with a
few drops of sulfuric acid to make sure
that the acid will not eat away the bottle cap during
storage. If the acid
eats through it in 24 hours, a new top must be found and tested, until
a
cap that the acid does not eat through is found. A glass top is excellent.
2)
Carefully pour 8 oz. of gasoline into the glass bottle.
3) Carefully pour 4 oz. of
concentrated sulfuric acid into the glass bottle.
Wipe up any spills of acid on the sides of
the bottle, and screw the cap on
the bottle. Wash the bottle’s outside with plenty of water.
Set it aside
to dry.
4) Put about two teaspoons of potassium chlorate and about
two teaspoons of
sugar into the glass or plastic cup. Add about 1/2 cup of boiling water,
or
enough to dissolve all of the potassium chlorate and sugar.
5) Place a sheet
of paper towel in the cooking pan with raised edges. Fold
the paper towel in half, and pour
the solution of dissolved potassium
chlorate and sugar on it until it is thoroughly wet. Allow
the towel to
dry.
6) When it is dry, put some glue on the outside of the glass
bottle containing
the gasoline and sulfuric acid mixture. Wrap the paper towel around the
in a place where
it will not be broken or tipped over.
7) When finished, the solution in the bottle
should appear as two distinct
liquids, a dark brownish-red solution on the bottom, and a clear
solution on
top. The two solutions will not mix. To use the chemical fire bottle,
simply
throw it at any hard surface.
NEVER OPEN THE BOTTLE, SINCE SOME SULFURIC ACID MIGHT
BE ON THE CAP, WHICH
COULD TRICKLE DOWN THE SIDE OF THE BOTTLE AND IGNITE THE POTASSIUM
CHLORATE,
CAUSING A FIRE AND/OR EXPLOSION.
9) To test the device, tear a small
piece of the paper towel off the bottle,
and put a few drops of sulfuric acid on it. The paper
towel should
immediately burst into a white flame.
3.54 BOTTLED GAS
EXPLOSIVES
Bottled gas, such as butane for refilling lighters, propane for propane
make such a
device, all that a simple-minded anarchist would have to do would
be to take his container of
bottled gas and place it above a can of Sterno or
other gelatinized fuel, light the fuel and
run. Depending on the fuel used,
and on the thickness of the fuel container, the liquid gas
will boil and
expand to the point of bursting the container in about five minutes.
fuel, producing
a large fireball and explosion. Unfortunately, the bursting
of the bottled gas container often
puts out the fuel, thus preventing the
expanding gas from igniting. By using a metal bucket
half filled with
gasoline, however, the chances of ignition are better, since the gasoline
is
less likely to be extinguished. Placing the canister of bottled gas on a bed
of
burning charcoal soaked in gasoline would probably be the most effective
way of securing
ignition of the expanding gas, since although the bursting of
the gas container may blow out
the flame of the gasoline, the burning charcoal
should immediately re-ignite it. Nitrous
oxide, hydrogen, propane, acetylene,
or any other flammable gas will do nicely.
Addendum 4/12/91:
During the recent gulf war, fuel/air bombs were touted as being
second only
to nuclear weapons in their devastating effects. These are basically similar
to the above devices, except that an explosive charge is used to rupture the
fuel container
and disperse it over a wide area. a second charge is used to
detonate the fuel. The reaction
is said to produce a massive shockwave and to
burn all the oxygen in a large area, causing
suffocation.
Another benefit of a fuel-air explosive is that the gas will seep into
in a building
would result in the destruction of the majority of surrounding
rooms, rendering it
structurally unsound.
*End addendum
4.0 USING EXPLOSIVES
apply them.
Explosives have a wide range of uses, from harassment, to
vandalism, to murder. NONE OF THE
IDEAS PRESENTED HERE ARE EVER TO BE CARRIED
OUT, EITHER IN PART OR IN FULL! DOING SO CAN LEAD
TO PROSECUTION, FINES, AND
IMPRISONMENT! The first step that a person that would use explosive
would take
would be to determine how big an explosive device would be needed to do
whatever had to be done. Then, he would have to decide what to make his bomb
with. He would
also have to decide on how he wanted to detonate the device,
and determine where the best
placement for it would be. Then, it would be
necessary to see if the device could be put where
he wanted it without it
being discovered or moved. Finally, he would actually have to sit down
and
build his explosive device. These are some of the topics covered in the next
section.
4.1 SAFETY
There is no such thing as a "safe" explosive
device. One can only speak in
terms of relative safety, or less unsafe.
4.2 IGNITION DEVICES
There are many ways to ignite explosive devices. There is the
classic
"light the fuse, throw the bomb, and run" approach, and there are
sensitive
mercury switches, and many things in between. Generally, electrical
detonation
systems are safer than fuses, but there are times when fuses are
more appropriate than
electrical systems; it is difficult to carry an
electrical detonation system into a stadium,
for instance, without being
caught. A device with a fuse or impact detonating fuse would be
easier to
hide.
4.21 FUSE IGNITION
The oldest form of explosive
ignition, fuses are perhaps the favorite
type of simple ignition system. By simply placing a
piece of waterproof fuse
in a device, one can have almost guaranteed ignition. Modern
waterproof fuse
is extremely reliable, burning at a rate of about 2.5 seconds to the inch.
It
is available as model rocketry fuse in most hobby shops, and costs about $3.00
for a
nine-foot length. Fuse is a popular ignition system for pipe bombers
because of its
simplicity. All that need be done is light it with a match or
lighter. Of course, if the Army
had fuses like this, then the grenade, which
uses fuse ignition, would be very impracticle. If
a grenade ignition system
can be acquired, by all means, it is the most effective. But, since
such
things do not just float around, the next best thing is to prepare a fuse
system
which does not require the use of a match or lighter, but still retains
its simplicity. One
such method is described below:
MATERIALS
_________
strike-on-cover type matches
electrical tape or duct tape
waterproof
fuse
1) To determine the burn rate of a particular type of fuse, simply measure a
start button the
at the instant when the fuse lights, and stop the watch when
the fuse reaches its end. Divide
the time of burn by the length of fuse, and
you have the burn rate of the fuse, in seconds
per inch. This will be shown
below:
Suppose an eight inch piece of fuse is
burned, and its complete time
of combustion is 20 seconds.
20 seconds
ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ = 2.5 seconds per inch.
8 inches
If a delay of 10 seconds
was desired with this fuse, divide the desired
time by the number of seconds per inch:
10 seconds
ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ = 4 inches
2.5 seconds /
inch
NOTE: THE LENGTH OF FUSE HERE MEANS LENGTH OF FUSE TO THE POWDER. SOME FUSE,
AT LEAST AN INCH, SHOULD BE INSIDE THE DEVICE. ALWAYS ADD THIS EXTRA INCH,
AND PUT THIS EXTRA
INCH AN INCH INTO THE DEVICE!!!
2) After deciding how long a delay is desired before
the explosive device is
to go off, add about 1/2 an inch to the premeasured amount of fuse,
and
cut it off.
3) Carefully remove the cardboard matches from the paper match
case. Do not
pull off individual matches; keep all the matches attached to the cardboard
base. Take one of the cardboard match sections, and leave the other one
to make a second
igniter.
4) Wrap the matches around the end of the fuse, with the heads of the
matches
touching the very end of the fuse. Tape them there securely, making sure
not to
put tape over the match heads. Make sure they are very secure by
pulling on them at the base
of the assembly. They should not be able to
move.
5) Wrap the cover of the
matches around the matches attached to the fuse,
making sure that the striker paper is below
the match heads and the striker
faces the match heads. Tape the paper so that is fairly tight
around the
matches. Do not tape the cover of the striker to the fuse or to the matches.
Leave enough of the match book to pull on for ignition.
_____________________
\
/
\ / —— match book cover
\ /
| M|f|M —|——- match head
| A|u|A
|
| T|s|T |
| C|e|C |
|tapeH|.|Htape|
| |f| |
|#####|u|#####|——–
striking paper
|#####|s|#####|
\ |e| /
\ |.| /
\ |f| /
\ |u| /
|ta|s|pe|
|ta|e|pe|
|.|
|f|
|u|
|s|
|e|
|.|
|_|
The match book is wrapped around the matches, and is taped to itself.
The
matches are taped to the fuse. The striker will rub against the
matcheads when the match book
is pulled.
6) When ready to use, simply pull on the match paper. It should pull the
turn, the
burning matcheads will light the fuse, since it adjacent to the
burning match heads.
Impact ignition is an excellent method of ignition for
spontaneous
terrorist activities. The problem with an impact-detonating device is that it
transported
to the place where it is to be used. This can be done by having a
removable impact
initiator.
The best and most reliable impact initiator is one that uses factory
made
initiators or primers. A no. 11 cap for black powder firearms is one such
primer.
They usually come in boxes of 100, and cost about $2.50. To use such a
cap, however, one needs
a nipple that it will fit on. Black powder nipples are
also available in gun stores. All that
a person has to do is ask for a package
of nipples and the caps that fit them. Nipples have a
hole that goes all the
way through them, and they have a threaded end, and an end to put the
cap on. A
cutaway of a nipple is shown below:
________________
| |
_
| |
| | |/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\|
_______| |^^^^^^^|
| ___________|
| |
no.
11 |_______|
percussion _______ ——- threads for screwing
cap :
here
|__________ nipple onto bomb
|____ |
| |^^^^^^^^^|
|_| |/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/|
|
|
|_________________|
When making using this type of initiator, a hole
must be drilled into
whatever container is used to make the bomb out of. The nipple is then
screwed
into the hole so that it fits tightly. Then, the cap can be carried and placed
on the bomb when it is to be thrown. The cap should be bent a small amount
before it is placed
on the nipple, to make sure that it stays in place. The
only other problem involved with an
impact detonating bomb is that it must
strike a hard surface on the nipple to set it off. By
attaching fins or a
small parachute on the end of the bomb opposite the primer, the bomb,
when
thrown, should strike the ground on the primer, and explode. Of course, a bomb
with
mercury fulminate in each end will go off on impact regardless of which
end it strikes on, but
mercury fulminate is also likely to go off if the
person carrying the bomb is bumped hard.
4.23 ELECTRICAL IGNITION
Electrical ignition systems for detonation
are usually the safest and
most reliable form of ignition. Electrical systems are ideal for
demolition
work, if one doesn’t have to worry so much about being caught. With two spools
"safe",
comfortable distance, and be sure that there is nobody around that
could get hurt. With an
electrical system, one can control exactly what time a
device will explode, within fractions
of a second. Detonation can be aborted
in less than a second’s warning, if a person suddenly
walks by the detonation
sight, or if a police car chooses to roll by at the time. The two
best
electrical igniters are military squibs and model rocketry igniters. Blasting
caps
for construction also work well. Model rocketry igniters are sold in
packages of six, and cost
about $1.00 per pack. All that need be done to use
them is connect it to two wires and run a
current through them. Military
squibs are difficult to get, but they are a little bit better,
since they
explode when a current is run through them, whereas rocketry igniters only
burst into flame. Military squibs can be used to set off sensitive high
explosives, such as
R.D.X., or potassium chlorate mixed with petroleum jelly.
Igniters can be used to set off
black powder, mercury fulminate, or guncotton,
which in turn, can set of a high order
explosive.
4.24 ELECTRO-MECHANICAL IGNITION
Electro-mechanical
ignition systems are systems that use some type of
mechanical switch to set off an explosive
charge electrically. This type of
switch is typically used in booby traps or other devices in
which the person
who places the bomb does not wish to be anywhere near the device when it
4.241 Mercury Switches
Mercury switches are a switch that uses the fact that mercury
metal
conducts electricity, as do all metals, but mercury metal is a liquid at room
temperatures. A typical mercury switch is a sealed glass tube with two
electrodes and a bead
of mercury metal. It is sealed because of mercury’s
nasty habit of giving off brain-damaging
vapors. The diagram below may help to
explain a mercury switch.
______________
_____wire +______/_________ \
\ ( Hg )| /
\ _(_Hg___)|___/
|
wire – |
|
|
When the drop of mercury ("Hg" is
mercury’s atomic symbol) touches both
contacts, current flows through the switch. If this
particular switch was in
its present position, A—B, current would be flowing, since the
mercury can
touch both contacts in the horizontal position.
If, however, it was
in the | position, the drop of mercury would only
touch the + contact on the A side. Current,
then couldn’t flow, since mercury
does not reach both contacts when the switch is in the
vertical position. This
type of switch is ideal to place by a door. If it were placed in the
path of a
swinging door in the verticle position, the motion of the door would knock the
switch down, if it was held to the ground by a piece if tape. This would tilt
the switch into
the verticle position, causing the mercury to touch both
contacts, allowing current to flow
through the mercury, and to the igniter or
squib in an explosive device. Imagine opening a
door and having it slammed in
your face by an explosion.
4.242 Tripwire
Switches
A tripwire is an element of the classic booby trap. By placing a nearly
invisible line of string or fishing line in the probable path of a victim, and
by putting some
type of trap there also, nasty things can be caused to occur.
If this mode of thought is
applied to explosives, how would one use such a
tripwire to detonate a bomb. The technique is
simple. By wrapping the tips
of a standard clothespin with aluminum foil, and placing
something between
them, and connecting wires to each aluminum foil contact, an electric
tripwire
can be made, If a piece of wood attached to the tripwire was placed between
the
contacts on the clothespin, the clothespin would serve as a switch. When
the tripwire was
pulled, the clothespin would snap together, allowing current
to flow between the two pieces of
aluminum foil, thereby completing a circuit,
which would have the igniter or squib in it.
Current would flow between the
contacts to the igniter or squib, heat the igniter or squib,
causing it it to
explode.
__________________________________
\_foil___________________________/
Insert strip of —————————-spring
wood with trip- _foil__________________________
wire between foil
/_______________________________\
contacts.
Make sure that the aluminum
foil contacts do not touch the spring, since the
spring also conducts electricity.
4.243 Radio Control Detonators
In the movies, every terrorist or criminal
uses a radio controlled
detonator to set off explosives. With a good radio detonator, one can
be
several miles away from the device, and still control exactly when it
explodes, in
much the same way as an electrical switch. The problem with
radio detonators is that they are
rather costly. However, there could
possibly be a reason that a terrorist would wish to spend
the amounts of money
involved with a RC (radio control) system and use it as a detonator. If
such
an individual wanted to devise an RC detonator, all he would need to do is
visit
the local hobby store or toy store, and buy a radio controlled toy.
Taking it back to his/her
abode, all that he/she would have to do is detach
the solenoid/motor that controls the motion
of the front wheels of a RC car,
or detach the solenoid/motor of the elevators/rudder of a RC
plane, or the
rudder of a RC boat, and re-connect the squib or rocket engine igniter to the
with squibs or
igniters, and fully charged batteries should be in both he
controller and the receiver (the
part that used to move parts before the
device became a detonator).
4.3 DELAYS
A delay is a device which causes time to pass from when a device is set
up to the
time that it explodes. A regular fuse is a delay, but it would cost
quite a bit to have a 24
hour delay with a fuse. This section deals with the
different types of delays that can be
employed by a terrorist who wishes to be
sure that his bomb will go off, but wants to be out
of the country when it
does.
4.31 FUSE DELAYS
It is extremely
simple to delay explosive devices that employ fuses for
ignition. Perhaps the simplest way to
do so is with a cigarette. An average
cigarette burns for about 8 minutes. The higher the
"tar" and nicotine rating,
the slower the cigarette burns. Low "tar" and
nicotine cigarettes burn quicker
than the higher "tar" and nicotine cigarettes, but
they are also less likely
to go out if left unattended, i.e. not smoked. Depending on the wind
or draft
in a given place, a high "tar" cigarette is better for delaying the
ignition
of a fuse, but there must be enough wind or draft to give the cigarette enough
oxygen to burn. People who use cigarettes for the purpose of delaying fuses
will often test
the cigarettes that they plan to use in advance to make sure
they stay lit and to see how long
it will burn. Once a cigarettes burn rate is
determined, it is a simple matter of carefully
putting a hole all the way
through a cigarette with a toothpick at the point desired, and
pushing the
fuse for a device in the hole formed.
|=|
|=| ———-
filter
|=|
| |
| |
|o| ———- hole for fuse
cigarette ————
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
|_|
———- light this end
A similar type of device can be make from powdered
charcoal and a sheet
of paper. Simply roll the sheet of paper into a thin tube, and fill it
with
powdered charcoal. Punch a hole in it at the desired location, and insert a
fuse.
Both ends must be glued closed, and one end of the delay must be doused
with lighter fluid
before it is lit. Or, a small charge of gunpowder mixed
with powdered charcoal could
conceivably used for igniting such a delay. A
chain of charcoal briquettes can be used as a
delay by merely lining up a few
bricks of charcoal so that they touch each other, end on end,
and lighting the
first brick. Incense, which can be purchased at almost any novelty or
party
supply store, can also be used as a fairly reliable delay. By wrapping the
fuse
about the end of an incense stick, delays of up to 1/2 an hour are
possible.
Finally, it is possible to make a relatively slow-burning fuse in the home. By
dissolving
about one teaspoon of black powder in about 1/4 a cup of boiling
water, and, while it is still
hot, soaking in it a long piece of all cotton
string, a slow-burning fuse can be made. After
the soaked string dries, it
must then be tied to the fuse of an explosive device. Sometimes,
the end of
the slow burning fuse that meets the normal fuse has a charge of black powder
or gunpowder at the intersection point to insure ignition, since the
slow-burning fuse does
not burn at a very high temperature. A similar type of
slow fuse can be made by taking the
above mixture of boiling water and black
powder and pouring it on a long piece of toilet
paper. The wet toilet paper is
then gently twisted up so that it resembles a firecracker fuse,
and is allowed
to dry.
4.32 TIMER DELAYS
Timer delays, or
"time bombs" are usually employed by an individual who
wishes to threaten a place
with a bomb and demand money to reveal its location
and means to disarm it. Such a device
could be placed in any populated place if
it were concealed properly. There are several ways
to build a timer delay. By
simply using a screw as one contact at the time that detonation is
desired, and
using the hour hand of a clock as the other contact, a simple timer can be
made.
The minute hand of a clock should be removed, unless a delay of less than an
hour
is desired.
The main disadvantage with this type of timer is that it can only be set
in an
electronic clock, then delays of up to 24 hours are possible. By
removing the speaker from an
electronic clock, and attaching the wires of a
squib or igniter to them, a timer with a delay
of up to 24 hours can be made.
All that one has to do is set the alarm time of the clock to
the desired time,
connect the leads, and go away. This could also be done with an
electronic
watch, if a larger battery were used, and the current to the speaker of the
watch was stepped up via a transformer. This would be good, since such a
timer could be
extremely small.
The timer in a VCR (Video Cassette Recorder) would be ideal. VCR’s can
usually be set for times of up to a week. The leads from the timer to the
recording equipment
would be the ones that an igniter or squib would be
connected to. Also, one can buy timers
from electronics stores that would be
work well. Finally, one could employ a digital watch,
and use a relay, or
electro-magnetic switch to fire the igniter, and the current of the
watch
would not have to be stepped up.
4.33 CHEMICAL DELAYS
Chemical delays are uncommon, but they can be extremely effective in some
cases. If a glass
container is filled with concentrated sulfuric acid, and
capped with several thicknesses of
aluminum foil, or a cap that it will eat
through, then it can be used as a delay. Sulfuric
acid will react with aluminum
foil to produce aluminum sulfate and hydrogen gas, and so the
container must be
open to the air on one end so that the pressure of the hydrogen gas that
is
forming does not break the container.
_ _
| | | |
| | | |
| | |
|
| |_____________| |
| | | |
| | sulfuric | |
| | | |
| | acid | |
| |_____________| | (several thicknesses)
|_________________|
The aluminum foil is placed over the bottom of the container
and secured
there with tape. When the acid eats through the aluminum foil, it can be used
1) Sulfuric acid is a good conductor
of electricity. If the acid that
eats through the foil is collected in a glass container
placed underneath
the foil, and two wires are placed in the glass container, a current will
be
able to flow through the acid when both of the wires are immersed in the
acid.
2) Sulfuric acid reacts very violently with potassium chlorate. If the
acid drips down
into a container containing potassium chlorate, the potassium
chlorate will burst into flame.
This flame can be used to ignite a fuse, or
the potassium chlorate can be the igniter for a
thermite bomb, if some
potassium chlorate is mixed in a 50/50 ratio with the thermite, and
this
mixture is used as an igniter for the rest of the thermite.
3) Sulfuric acid
reacts with potassium permangenate in a similar way.
4.4 EXPLOSIVE CASINGS
This section will cover everything from making a simple firecracker to a
complicated
scheme for detonating an insensitive high explosive, both of which
are methods that could be
utilized by perpetrators of terror.
4.41 PAPER CONTAINERS
Paper was the first container ever used for explosives, since it was
first used
by the Chinese to make fireworks. Paper containers are usually very
simple to make, and are
certainly the cheapest. There are many possible uses
for paper in containing explosives, and
the two most obvious are in
firecrackers and rocket engines. Simply by rolling up a long sheet
of paper,
and gluing it together, one can make a simple rocket engine. Perhaps a more
interesting and dangerous use is in the firecracker. The firecracker shown
here is one of
Mexican design. It is called a "polumna", meaning "dove". The
process of
their manufacture is not unlike that of making a paper football. If
one takes a sheet of paper
about 16 inches in length by 1.5 inches wide, and
fold one corner so that it looks like
this:
________________________________________________
| |\
| | \
| | \
and then fold it again so that
it looks like this:
______________________________________________
| /|
| /
|
| / |
|________________________________________/___|
A pocket is formed.
This pocket can be filled with black powder,
pyrodex, flash powder, gunpowder,rocket engine
powder, or any of the
quick-burning fuel- oxodizer mixtures that occur in the form of a fine
powder.
A fuse is then inserted, and one continues the triangular folds, being
careful
not to spill out any of the explosive. When the polumna is finished,
it should be taped
together very tightly, since this will increase the
strength of the container, and produce a
louder and more powerful explosion
when it is lit. The finished polumna should look like a 1/4
inch – 1/3 inch
thick triangle, like the one shown below:
^
/ \
—– securely tape all corners
/ \
/ \
/ \
/ \
/
\____________________________
/_____________\__/__/__/__/__/__/__/__/__/ ———- fuse
4.42 METAL CONTAINERS
The classic pipe bomb is the best known example of
a metal-contained
explosive. Idiot anarchists take white tipped matches and cut off the
match
heads. They pound one end of a pipe closed with a hammer, pour in the white-
tipped matches, and then pound the other end closed. This process often kills
the fool, since
when he pounds the pipe closed, he could very easily cause
enough friction between the match
heads to cause them to ignite and explode
the unfinished bomb. By using pipe caps, the process
is somewhat safer, and
the less stupid anarchist would never use white tipped matches in a
bomb.
He would buy two pipe caps and threaded pipe (fig. 1). First, he would
drill a
hole in one pipe cap, and put a fuse in it so that it will not come
out, and so powder will
not escape during handling. The fuse would be at
least 3/4 an inch long inside the bomb. He
would then screw the cap with the
fuse in it on tightly, possibly putting a drop of super glue
on it to hold it
tight. He would then pour his explosive powder in the bomb. To pack it
tightly, he would take a large wad of tissue paper and, after filling the pipe
to the very
top, pack the powder down, by using the paper as a ramrod tip, and
pushing it with a pencil or
other wide ended object, until it would not move
any further.
Finally, he would screw
the other pipe cap on, and glue it. The tissue
paper would help prevent some of the powder
from being caught in the threads
of the pipe or pipe cap from being crushed and subject to
friction, which
might ignite the powder, causing an explosion during manufacture. An
assembled
bomb is shown in fig. 2.
________ ________
|
_____|________________________________|_____ |
| |__________________________________________|
|
| |: : : : |- – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – -| |
| | tissue | – - – - – - – - – - – -
- – - – |_|
| | : : : |- – - low order explosive – - ———————-
| | paper |
- – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – |-| fuse
| |: : : : |- – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – -| |
|
|__________________________________________| |
|______| |______|
endcap pipe
endcap
w/ hole
fig. 2 Assembled pipe bomb.
This is one
possible design that a mad bomber would use. If, however, he
did not have access to threaded
pipe with endcaps, he could always use a piece
of copper or aluminum pipe, since it is easily
bent into a suitable position. A
major problem with copper piping, however, is bending and
folding it without
tearing it; if too much force is used when folding and bending copper pipe,
it
will split along the fold. The safest method for making a pipe bomb out of
copper or
aluminum pipe is similar to the method with pipe and endcaps.
First, one flattens one end of a
copper or aluminum pipe carefully, making
sure not to tear or rip the piping. Then, the flat
end of the pipe should be
folded over at least once, if this does not rip the pipe. A fuse
hole should
be drilled in the pipe near the now closed end, and the fuse should be
inserted.
Next, the bomb- builder would fill the bomb with a low order explosive,
and pack it with a large wad of tissue paper. He would then flatten and fold
the other end of
the pipe with a pair of pliers. If he was not too dumb, he
would do this slowly, since the
process of folding and bending metal gives off
heat, which could set off the explosive. A
diagram is presented below:
________
_______________________________________________/| |
| | o | |
|______________________________________________ | |
\_|______|
fig. 1 pipe with
one end flattened and fuse hole drilled (top view)
______
____________________________________________/ | |
| | |
| o | |
|___________________________________________ | |
\__|__|
fig. 2 pipe with one end
flattened and folded up (top view)
____________ fuse hole
|
v
_________________________________________________
| \ |____ |
| \____| |
|
______|
| /
|_____________________________/__________________
fig. 3 pipe
with flattened and folded end (side view)
A CO2 cartridge from a B.B gun is
another excellent container for a low-
order explosive. It has one minor disadvantage: it is
time consuming to fill.
But this can be rectified by widening the opening of the cartridge
with a
pointed tool. Then, all that would have to be done is to fill the CO2
cartridge
with any low-order explosive, or any of the fast burning
fuel-oxodizer mixtures, and insert a
fuse. These devices are commonly called
"crater makers".
Addendum
4/12/91:
From personal experience, I have found that a CO2 cartridge is
easiest
to fill if you take a piece of paper and tape it around the
opening to form a sort of
funnel:
A full \ / Use a punch or sharp philips (+) screwdriver to
cartridge \ /
enlarge the pin-hole opening on a used cartridge.
can also be \ /
fun- @ It doesn’t seem
to be neccessary to seal the hole,
/ \ but if you must do so, Epoxy and electrical tape
toss it into | | work quite well.
a lite fire | |
and it will (__) CONDENSATION may form
inside a recently used
explode, and bottle- if you must use one right after emptying
the
CO2 may it, heat it in a warm oven to dry it out.
extinguish the flames.
*End
Addendum
A CO2 cartridge also works well as a container for a thermite incendiary
device, but it must be modified. The opening in the end must be widened, so
that the ignition
mixture, such as powdered magnesium, does not explode. The
fuse will ignite the powdered
magnesium, which, in turn, would ignite the
thermite .
The previously mentioned
designs for explosive devices are fine for low-
order explosives, but are unsuitable for
high-order explosives, since the
latter requires a shockwave to be detonated. A design
employing a smaller
low-order explosive device inside a larger device containing a
high-order
explosive would probably be used.
_____________________________________
| _ |
| / \ |
| High Explosive filler |LO =======
| \_/ |
|____________________________________|
If the large high explosive container is
small, such as a CO2 cartridge,
then a segment of a hollow radio antenna can be made into a
low-order pipe bomb,
which can be fitted with a fuse, and inserted into the CO2 cartridge.
4.43 GLASS CONTAINERS
Glass containers can be suitable for low-order
explosives, but there are
problems with them. First, a glass container can be broken
relatively easily
compared to metal or plastic containers. Secondly, in the
not-too-unlikely
event of an "accident", the person making the device would probably
be
seriously injured, even if the device was small. A bomb made out of a sample
perfume
bottle-sized container exploded in the hands of one boy, and he still
has pieces of glass in
his hand. He is also missing the final segment of his
ring finger, which was cut off by a
sharp piece of flying glass…
Nonetheless, glass containers such as perfume bottles
can be used by a
demented individual, since such a device would not be detected by metal
detectors in an airport or other public place. All that need be done is fill
the container,
and drill a hole in the plastic cap that the fuse fits tightly
in, and screw the cap-fuse
assembly on.
________________________ fuse
|
|
|
_____|_____
|
___|___ |
| > | < | drill hole in cap, and insert fuse;
| > | < | be sure
fuse will not come out of cap | >
| < |
| | |
| |
| |
| | screw
cap on bottle
| |
| |
V V
_________
< >
< >
< >
/ \
/ \
/ \
| | fill bottle with low-order explosive
| |
| |
| |
|___________|
Large explosive devices made from
glass containers are not practicle,
since glass is not an exceptionally strong container. Much
of the explosive
that is used to fill the container is wasted if the container is much
larger
than a 16 oz. soda bottle. Also, glass containers are usually unsuitable for
high
explosive devices, since a glass container would probably not withstand
the explosion of the
initiator; it would shatter before the high explosive was
able to detonate.
4.44
PLASTIC CONTAINERS
Plastic containers are perhaps the best containers for explosives,
since
they can be any size or shape, and are not fragile like glass. Plastic piping
can
be bought at hardware or plumbing stores, and a device much like the ones
used for metal
containers can be made. The high-order version works well with
plastic piping. If the entire
device is made out of plastic, it is not
detectable by metal detectors. Plastic containers can
usually be shaped by
heating the container, and bending it at the appropriate place. They can
be
glued closed with epoxy or other cement for plastics. Epoxy alone can be used
as an
endcap, if a wad of tissue paper is placed in the piping. Epoxy with a
drying agent works best
in this type of device.
|| ||
|| ||
||\_____________/||
|| ||
|| epoxy ||
||_______________||
|| tissue ||
|| paper ||
||_______________||
||***************||
||***************||
||***************||
||** explosive **||
||***************||
||***********———————– fuse
||***************||
||ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ||
|| ||
|| tissue ||
|| paper ||
||_______________||
|| ||
|| epoxy ||
|| _____________ ||
||/ \||
||
||
|| ||
One end must be made first, and be allowed to dry completely
before the
device can be filled with powder and fused. Then, with another piece of
tissue paper, pack the powder tightly, and cover it with plenty of epoxy. PVC
pipe works well
for this type of device, but it cannot be used if the pipe had
an inside diameter greater than
3/4 of an inch. Other plastic puttys can be
used in this type of device, but epoxy with a
drying agent works best.
Addendum 4/12/91:
In my experience, epoxy plugs
work well, but epoxy is somewhat
expensive. One alternative is auto body filler, a grey paste
which, when
mixed with hardener, forms into a rock-like mass which is stronger than
most
epoxy. The only drawback is the body filler generates quite a bit
of heat as it hardens, which
might be enough to set of a overly
sensitive explosive.
One benefit of body filler is
that it will hold it’s shape quite
well, and is ideal for forming rocket nozzles and entire
bomb casings.
*End Addendum
4.5 ADVANCED USES FOR EXPLOSIVES
The techniques presented here are those that could be used by a person
who had some
degree of knowledge of the use of explosives. Some of this
information comes from demolitions
books, or from military handbooks.
Advanced uses for explosives usually involved shaped
charges, or utilize a
minimum amount of explosive to do a maximum amount of damage. They
almost
always involve high- order explosives.
4.51 SHAPED CHARGES
A
shaped charge is an explosive device that, upon detonation, directs the
explosive force of
detonation at a small target area. This process can be used
to breach the strongest armor,
since forces of literally millions of pounds of
pressure per square inch can be generated.
Shaped charges employ high-order
explosives, and usually electric ignition systems. KEEP IN
MIND THAT ALL
EXPLOSIVES ARE DANGEROUS, AND SHOULD NEVER BE MADE OR USED!!
An
example of a shaped charge is shown below.
+ wire ________ _______ – wire
_
_________|_________|____________
^ | ________|_________|__________ |
| | | | | | |
| | | \ igniter / | |
| | | \_______/ | |
| | | priming charge | |
| | | (mercury
fulminate) | |
| | | ^ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | | / \ | |
|
| | / \ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | / \ | |
8 inches high | | / \ |
|
| | / high \ | |
| | | / explosive \ | |
| | | / charge \ | |
| | | / \ |
|
| | |/ \| |
| | | ^ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | | / \ | | thick steel
| | | / \ | | pipe
| |
| / \ | |
| | |/ \| |
| hole for | | | | hole for
| screw | | | | screw
V_______ ___________| | | |___________ ________
|______| |____________| |_____________|
|______|
|<——- 8 inches ——–>|
If a device such as this is
screwed to a safe, for example, it would
direct most of the explosive force at a point about 1
inch away from the
opening of the pipe. The basis for shaped charges is a cone-shaped opening
in
the explosive material. This cone should have an angle of 45 degrees. A
device such
as this one could also be attached to a metal surface with a
powerful electromagnet.
4.52 TUBE EXPLOSIVES
A variation on shaped charges, tube explosives can be
used in ways that
shaped charges cannot. If a piece of 1/2 inch plastic tubing was filled with
a
sensitive high explosive like R.D.X., and prepared as the plastic explosive
container
in section 4.44, a different sort of shaped charge could be
produced; a charge that directs
explosive force in a circular manner. This
type of explosive could be wrapped around a column,
or a doorknob, or a
telephone pole. The explosion would be directed in and out, and most
likely
destroy whatever it was wrapped around. In an unbent state, a tube explosive
would look like this:
||\____/||
|| epoxy||
ÚÄÄÄÄÄÂÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ¿
||——|| ³ RDX ³ another *Addendum
³
||tissue|| ÃÄÄÄÄÄÃÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ´
|| paper|| ³ NO
³
||______|| ³ 2 ³
||******|| ³ | ³
||******|| ³ N ³
||******|| ³ /
\ ³
|| RDX || ³ / \ ³
||*____*|| ³ H C H C ³
||*| s|*|| ³ / 2 2 ³
||*| q|*|| ³ / | ³
||*| u|*|| ³ O N N–NO ³
||*| i|*|| ³ 2 \ / 2 ³
||*|
b|*|| ³ \ / ³
||*| b|*|| ³ \ / ³
||*|__|*|| ³ CH ³
||__||__|| ³ 2 ³
||tissue|| ³ ³
|| paper|| ÀÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÙ
||–||–||
|| epoxy||
|| || ||
||/ || \||
|| || ||
||_______ + wire
______________
|________ – wire ______________
When an assassin or
terrorist wishes to use a tube bomb, he must wrap it
around whatever thing he wishes to
destroy, and epoxy the ends of the tube bomb
together. After it dries, he/she can connect
wires to the squib wires, and
detonate the bomb, with any method of electric detonation.
4.53 ATOMIZED PARTICLE EXPLOSIONS
If a highly flammable substance is
atomized, or, divided into very small
particles, and large amounts of it is burned in a
confined area, an explosion
similar to that occurring in the cylinder of an automobile is
produced. The
tiny droplets of gasoline burn in the air, and the hot gasses expand rapidly,
ignited in a
building, it is very possible that the expanding gassed would
push the walls of the building
down. This phenomenon is called an atomized
particle explosion.
If a person can
effectively atomize a large amount of a highly flammable
substance and ignite it, he could
bring down a large building, bridge, or
other structure. Atomizing a large amount of gasoline,
for example, can be
extremely difficult, unless one has the aid of a high explosive. If a
gallon
jug of gasoline was placed directly over a high explosive charge, and the
charge
was detonated, the gasoline would instantly be atomized and ignited. If
this occurred in a
building, for example, an atomized particle explosion would
surely occur. Only a small amount
of high explosive would be necessary to
accomplish this feat, about 1/2 a pound of T.N.T. or
1/4 a pound of R.D.X.
Also, instead of gasoline, powdered aluminum could be used. It is
necessary
that a high explosive be used to atomize a flammable material, since a
low-order explosion does not occur quickly enough to atomize or ignite the
flammable
material.
4.54 LIGHTBULB BOMBS
An automatic reaction to walking
into a dark room is to turn on the
light. This can be fatal, if a lightbulb bomb has been
placed in the overhead
light socket. A lightbulb bomb is surprisingly easy to make. It also
comes
with its own initiator and electric ignition system. On some lightbulbs, the
lightbulb glass can be removed from the metal base by heating the base of a
lightbulb in a gas
flame, such as that of a blowtorch or gas stove. This must
be done carefully, since the inside
of a lightbulb is a vacuum. When the glue
gets hot enough, the glass bulb can be pulled off
the metal base. On other
bulbs, it is necessary to heat the glass directly with a blowtorch
or
oxy-acetylene torch. In either case, once the bulb and/or base has cooled down
to
room temperature or lower, the bulb can be filled with an explosive
material, such as black
powder. If the glass was removed from the metal base,
it must be glued back on to the base
with epoxy. If a hole was put in the
bulb, a piece of duct tape is sufficient to hold the
explosive in the in the
bulb. Then, after making sure that the socket has no power by checking
with a
working lightbulb, all that need be done is to screw the lightbulb bomb into
the
socket. Such a device has been used by terrorists or assassins with much
success, since nobody
can search the room for a bomb without first turning on
the light.
4.55
BOOK BOMBS
Concealing a bomb can be extremely difficult in a day and age where
perpetrators of violence run wild. Bags and briefcases are often searched by
authorities
whenever one enters a place where an individual might intend to
set off a bomb. One approach
to disguising a bomb is to build what is called
a book bomb; an explosive device that is
entirely contained inside of a book.
Usually, a relatively large book is required, and the
book must be of the
hardback variety to hide any protrusions of a bomb. Dictionaries, law
books,
large textbooks, and other such books work well. When an individual makes a
bookbomb, he/she must choose a type of book that is appropriate for the place
where the book
bomb will be placed. The actual construction of a book bomb
can be done by anyone who
possesses an electric drill and a coping saw.
First, all of the pages of the book must be
glued together. By pouring an
entire container of water-soluble glue into a large bucket, and
filling the
bucket with boiling water, a glue-water solution can be made that will hold
all of the book’s pages together tightly. After the glue-water solution has
cooled to a
bearable temperature, and the solution has been stirred well, the
pages of the book must be
immersed in the glue-water solution, and each page
must be thoroughly soaked.
It is
extremely important that the covers of the book do not get stuck to
the pages of the book
while the pages are drying. Suspending the book by both
covers and clamping the pages together
in a vice works best. When the pages
dry, after about three days to a week, a hole must be
drilled into the now
rigid pages, and they should drill out much like wood. Then, by inserting
the
coping saw blade through the pages and sawing out a rectangle from the middle
of the
book, the individual will be left with a shell of the book’s pages.
The pages, when drilled
out, should look like this:
________________________
| ____________________ |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| |__________________| |
|______________________|
(book covers omitted)
This rectangle must be
securely glued to the back cover of the book.
After building his/her bomb, which usually is of
the timer or radio controlled
variety, the bomber places it inside the book. The bomb itself,
and whatever
timer or detonator is used, should be packed in foam to prevent it from
rolling or shifting about. Finally, after the timer is set, or the radio
control has been
turned on, the front cover is glued closed, and the bomb is
taken to its destination.
4.56 PHONE BOMBS
The phone bomb is an explosive device that has been used
in the past to
kill or injure a specific individual. The basic idea is simple: when the
person answers the phone, the bomb explodes. If a small but powerful high
explosive device
with a squib was placed in the phone receiver, when the
current flowed through the receiver,
the squib would explode, detonating the
high explosive in the person’s hand. Nasty. All that
has to be done is
acquire a squib, and tape the receiver switch down.
Unscrew the
mouthpiece cover, and remove the speaker, and connect the squib’s
leads where it was. Place a
high explosive putty, such as C-1 (see section
3.31) in the receiver, and screw the cover on,
making sure that the squib is
surrounded by the C-1. Hang the phone up, and leave the tape in
place.
When the individual to whom the phone belongs attempts to answer the phone,
he
will notice the tape, and remove it. This will allow current to flow
through the squib. Note
that the device will not explode by merely making a
phone call; the owner of the phone must
lift up the receiver, and remove the
tape. It is highly probable that the phone will be by
his/her ear when the
device explodes…
Addendum 4/12/91:
The above
seems overly complicated to me… it would be better to rig
the device as follows:
_________ FIRST UNPLUG THE PHONE FROM THE WALL
/|——-|\ Wire the detonator IN LINE with the
wires going to the earpiece,
~ | | ~ (may need to wire it with a relay so the detonator can
receive
@@@@@@@@ the full line power, not just to audio power to the earpiece)
@@@@@@@@@@
@@@@@@@@@@ Pack C4 into the phone body (NOT the handset) and plug it back
in.
When they pick up the phone, power will flow through the
circuit to the detonator….
5.0 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR PROJECTILE WEAPONS
Explosive and/or poisoned
ammunition is an important part of a social
deviant’s arsenal. Such ammunition gives the user
a distinct advantage over
individual who use normal ammunition, since a grazing hit is good
enough to
kill. Special ammunition can be made for many types of weapons, from
crossbows
to shotguns.
5.1 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR PRIMITIVE WEAPONS
For the
purposes of this publication, we will call any weapon primitive
that does not employ burning
gunpowder to propel a projectile forward. This
means blowguns, bows and crossbows, and
wristrockets.
5.11 BOW AND CROSSBOW AMMUNITION
Bows and crossbows both
fire arrows or bolts as ammunition. It is
extremely simple to poison an arrow or bolt, but it
is a more difficult matter
to produce explosive arrows or bolts. If, however, one can acquire
aluminum
piping that is the same diameter of an arrow or crossbow bolt, the entire
segment of piping can be converted into an explosive device that detonates
upon impact, or
with a fuse.
All that need be done is find an aluminum tube of the right length and
diameter, and plug the back end with tissue paper and epoxy. Fill the tube
with any type of
low-order explosive or sensitive high-order explosive up to
about 1/2 an inch from the top.
tube into a round
point, making sure to leave a small hole. Place a no. 11
percussion cap over the hole, and
secure it with super glue.
Finally, wrap the end of the device with electrical or duct tape,
and
make fins out of tape. Or, fins can be bought at a sporting goods store, and
glued
to the shaft. The finished product should look like:
____________
___|____________\____________________
\ —.
/__ ________________________________—`
When the arrow or bolt strikes a hard surface, the percussion
cap explodes,
igniting or detonating the explosive.
5.12 SPECIAL
AMMUNITION FOR BLOWGUNS
The blowgun is an interesting weapon which has several
advantages. A
blowgun can be extremely accurate, concealable, and deliver an explosive or
not
difficult.
Perhaps the most simple design for such involves the use of a pill capsule,
such as the kind that are taken for headaches or allergies. Such a capsule
could easily be
opened, and the medicine removed. Next, the capsule would be
re-filled with an
impact-sensitive explosive. An additional high explosive
charge could be placed behind the
impact-sensitive explosive, if one of the
larger capsules were used.
Finally, the
explosive capsule would be reglued back together, and a tassel
or cotton would be glued to the
end containing the high explosive, to insure
that the impact-detonating explosive struck the
target first.
Such a device would probably be about 3/4 of an inch long, not including the
____________________
/mercury |
\———————–
(fulminate| R.D.X. )———————- } tassels
\________|___________/———————–
5.13 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR
WRISTROCKETS AND SLINGSHOTS
A modern wristrocket is a formidable weapon. It can throw a
shooter marble
about 500 ft. with reasonable accuracy. Inside of 200 ft., it could well be
relatively large
sized projectile that can be used in a wristrocket, the
wristrocket can be adapted to throw
relatively powerful explosive projectiles.
A small segment of aluminum pipe could be
made into an impact-detonating
device by filling it with an impact-sensitive explosive
material.
Also, such a pipe could be filled with a low-order explosive, and fitted
with
a fuse, which would be lit before the device was shot. One would have to
make sure that the
fuse was of sufficient length to insure that the device did
not explode before it reached its
intended target.
Finally, .22 caliber caps, such as the kind that are used in .22 caliber
must be used at
a relatively close range, because of their light weight.
5.2 SPECIAL AMMUNITION
FOR FIREARMS
When special ammunition is used in combination with the power
and
rapidity of modern firearms, it becomes very easy to take on a small army with
a
single weapon. It is possible to buy explosive ammunition, but that can be
difficult to do.
Such ammunition can also be manufactured in the home. There
is, however, a risk involved with
modifying any ammunition. If the ammunition
is modified incorrectly, in such a way that it
makes the bullet even the
slightest bit wider, an explosion in the barrel of the weapon will
occur. For
this reason, NOBODY SHOULD EVER ATTEMPT TO MANUFACTURE SUCH AMMUNITION.
5.21 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR HANDGUNS
If an individual wished to produce
explosive ammunition for his/her
handgun, he/she could do it, provided that the person had an
impact-sensitive
explosive and a few simple tools. One would first purchase all lead
bullets,
and then make or acquire an impact-detonating explosive. By drilling a hole
in
a lead bullet with a drill, a space could be created for the placement of
an explosive. After
filling the hole with an explosive, it would be sealed in
the bullet with a drop of hot wax
from a candle. A diagram of a completed
exploding bullet is shown below.
_o_
———— drop of wax
/|*|\
| |*|-|———– impact-sensitive explosive
|
|_| |
|_____|
This hollow space design also works for putting poison in
bullets.
5.22 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR SHOTGUNS
Because of their
large bore and high power, it is possible to create some
extremely powerful special ammunition
for use in shotguns. If a shotgun shell
is opened at the top, and the shot removed, the shell
can be re-closed. Then,
if one can find a very smooth, lightweight wooden dowel that is close
to the
bore width of the shotgun, a person can make several types of shotgun-launched
weapons.
Insert the dowel in the barrel of the shotgun with the shell without the
shot
in the firing chamber. Mark the dowel about six inches away from the end
of the barrel, and
remove it from the barrel.
Next, decide what type of explosive or incendiary device is to be
used.
This device can be a chemical fire bottle (sect. 3.43), a pipe bomb (sect
4.42),
or a thermite bomb (sect 3.41 and 4.42). After the device is made, it
must be securely
attached to the dowel. When this is done, place the dowel
back in the shotgun. The bomb or
incendiary device should be on the end of the
dowel.
Make sure that the device has a
long enough fuse, light the fuse, and fire
the shotgun. If the projectile is not too heavy,
ranges of up to 300 ft are
possible. A diagram of a shotgun projectile is shown below:
____
|| |
|| |
|| | —– bomb, securely taped to dowel
|| |
||__|
|| | ——- fuse
|| |
||
||
||
|| ——— dowel
||
||
||
|| ——— insert this end into shotgun
||
||
5.3 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR COMPRESSED AIR/GAS WEAPONS
This section deals
with the manufacture of special ammunition for
compressed air or compressed gas weapons, such
as pump B.B guns, CO2 B.B guns,
and .22 cal pellet guns. These weapons, although usually
thought of as kids
toys, can be made into rather dangerous weapons.
5.31
SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR B.B GUNS
A B.B gun, for this manuscript, will be considered any
type of rifle or
pistol that uses compressed air or CO2 gas to fire a projectile with a
caliber
of .177, either B.B, or lead pellet. Such guns can have almost as high a
muzzle
velocity as a bullet-firing rifle. Because of the speed at which a .177
caliber projectile
flies, an impact detonating projectile can easily be made
that has a caliber of .177.
Most ammunition for guns of greater than .22 caliber use primers to
ignite the powder in the
bullet. These primers can be bought at gun stores,
since many people like to reload their own
bullets. Such primers detonate when
struck by the firing pin of a gun. They will also detonate
if they are thrown
at a hard surface at a great speed.
Usually, they will also fit in
the barrel of a .177 caliber gun. If they are
inserted flat end first, they will detonate when
the gun is fired at a hard
surface. If such a primer is attached to a piece of thin metal
tubing, such as
that used in an antenna, the tube can be filled with an explosive, be
sealed,
and fired from a B.B gun. A diagram of such a projectile appears below:
_____ primers _______
| |
| |
| |
V V
______ ______
|
________________________ |——————-
| ****** explosive ******* |——————-
} tassel or
| ________________________ |——————- cotton
|_____
_____|——————-
^
|
|
|_______ antenna tubing
The
front primer is attached to the tubing with a drop of super glue. The
tubing is then filled
with an explosive, and the rear primer is glued on.
Finally, a tassel, or a small piece of
cotton is glued to the rear primer, to
insure that the projectile strikes on the front primer.
The entire projectile
should be about 3/4 of an inch long.
5.32
SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR .22 CALIBER PELLET GUNS
A .22 caliber pellet gun usually
is equivalent to a .22 cal rifle, at
close ranges. Because of this, relatively large explosive
projectiles can be
adapted for use with .22 caliber air rifles. A design similar to that used
in
section 5.12 is suitable, since some capsules are about .22 caliber or
smaller. Or, a
design similar to that in section 5.31 could be used, only one
would have to purchase black
powder percussion caps, instead of ammunition
primers, since there are percussion caps that
are about .22 caliber. A #11
cap is too small, but anything larger will do nicely.
6.0 ROCKETS AND CANNONS
Rockets and cannon are generally thought of as heavy
artillery.
Perpetrators of violence do not usually employ such devices, because they are
difficult or impossible to acquire. They are not, however, impossible to
make. Any individual
who can make or buy black powder or pyrodex can make such
things. A terrorist with a cannon or
large rocket is, indeed, something to
fear.
6.1 ROCKETS
Rockets were first developed by the Chinese several hundred years before
the myth of christ
began. They were used for entertainment, in the form of
fireworks. They were not usually used
for military purposes because they were
inaccurate, expensive, and unpredictable. In modern
times, however, rockets
are used constantly by the military, since they are cheap, reliable,
and have
no recoil. Perpetrators of violence, fortunately, cannot obtain military
rockets, but they can make or buy rocket engines. Model rocketry is a popular
hobby of the
space age, and to launch a rocket, an engine is required. Estes,
a subsidiary of Damon, is the
leading manufacturer of model rockets and rocket
engines. Their most powerful engine, the
"D" engine, can develop almost 12
lbs. of thrust; enough to send a relatively large
explosive charge a
significant distance. Other companies, such as Centuri, produce even
larger
rocket engines, which develop up to 30 lbs. of thrust. These model rocket
engines
are quite reliable, and are designed to be fired electrically. Most
model rocket engines have
three basic sections. The diagram below will help
explain them.
_________________________________________________________
|_________________________________________________________| — cardboard
\ clay | – - – - – -
- – - – | * * * | . . . .|c| casing
\_______| – - – - – - – - – | * * * | . . . |l|
_______ – - – thrust – - – | smoke | eject |a|
/ clay | – - – - – - – - – | * * * | . . .
.|y|
/________|_____________________|_______|________|_|_______
|_________________________________________________________| — cardboard
casing
The clay nozzle is where the igniter is inserted. When the area labeled
"thrust" is ignited, the "thrust" material, usually a large single grain of a
hot, rapidly
expanding gasses out the narrow nozzle, pushing the rocket
forward.
After the material
has been consumed, the smoke section of the engine is
ignited. It is usually a slow-burning
material, similar to black powder that
has had various compounds added to it to produce
visible smoke, usually black,
white, or yellow in color. This section exists so that the
rocket will be
seen when it reaches its maximum altitude, or apogee.
When it is burned
up, it ignites the ejection charge, labeled "eject".
The ejection charge is finely
powdered black powder. It burns very rapidly,
exploding, in effect. The explosion of the
ejection charge pushes out the
parachute of the model rocket. It could also be used to ignite
the fuse of a
bomb…
Rocket engines have their own peculiar labeling system.
Typical engine
labels are: 1/4A-2T, 1/2A-3T, A8-3, B6-4, C6-7, and D12-5. The letter is an
"A"
engines, and "C" engines are twice as powerful as "B"
engines, and so on. The
number following the letter is the approximate thrust of the engine,
in
pounds. the final number and letter is the time delay, from the time that the
thrust
period of engine burn ends until the ejection charge fires; "3T"
indicates a 3
second delay.
NOTE: an extremely effective rocket propellant can be made by mixing
aluminum
dust with ammonium perchlorate and a very small amount of iron oxide. The
mixture is bound together by an epoxy.
6.11 BASIC ROCKET BOMB
A
rocket bomb is simply what the name implies: a bomb that is delivered
to its target by means
of a rocket. Most people who would make such a device
would use a model rocket engine to power
the device. By cutting fins from
balsa wood and gluing them to a large rocket engine, such as
the Estes "C"
engine, a basic rocket could be constructed. Then, by attaching a
"crater
maker", or CO2 cartridge bomb to the rocket, a bomb would be added. To
insure
that the fuse of the "crater maker" (see sect. 4.42) ignited, the clay
over
the ejection charge of the engine should be scraped off with a plastic tool.
The
fuse of the bomb should be touching the ejection charge, as shown below.
____________ rocket engine
| _________ crater maker
| |
| |
V |
_______________________________V_
|_______________________________| ______________________
\__| – - – - – -|***|::::| ___/ # # # #
# # # # # # # \
__ – - – - – -|***|::::|—fuse— # # explosive # # )
/ | – - – - –
-|***|::::| ___ # # # # # # # # # # # /
/___|____________|___|____|____
\_______________________/
|_______________________________|
thrust> – - – - –
-
smoke> ***
ejection charge> ::::
Duct tape is the best way
to attach the crater maker to the rocket
engine. Note in the diagram the absence of the clay
over the ejection charge
Many different types of explosive payloads can be attached to the
rocket, such
as a high explosive, an incendiary device, or a chemical fire bottle.
the rocket
flies straight. The fins should look like the following diagram:
|\
| \
|
\
| \ <——— glue this to rocket engine
| \
| \
| \
| |
|
|
| |
leading edge |
——-> |
| |
| | trailing edge
| |
<——–
| |
| |
| |
| |
\_____/
The leading
edge and trailing edge should be sanded with sandpaper so
that they are rounded. This will
help make the rocket fly straight. A two
inch long section of a plastic straw can be attached
to the rocket to launch
it from. A clothes hanger can be cut and made into a launch rod. The
segment
of a plastic straw should be glued to the rocket engine adjacent to one of the
fins of the rocket. A front view of a completed rocket bomb is shown below.
|
fin
| <—— fin
| | |
| | |
| __|__ |
V / \ V
—————|
|—————
\_____/
|o <———– segment of plastic straw
|
|
|
|
By cutting a coat hanger at the indicated arrows,
and bending it, a
launch rod can be made. After a fuse is inserted in the engine, the rocket
is
simply slid down the launch rod, which is put through the segment of plastic
straw.
The rocket should slide easily along a coathanger, such as the one
illustated on the following
page:
____
/ \
| |
cut here _____ |
| |
| |
| /
\
V / \
_________________/ \________________
/ \
/ \
/____________________________________________\
^
|
|
and here ______|
Bend wire to this shape:
_______ insert into straw
|
|
|
V
____________________________________________
\
\
\
\
\ <——— bend here to adjust flight angle
|
|
|
|
|
|
6.12 LONG RANGE ROCKET
BOMB
Long range rockets can be made by using multi-stage rockets. Model
rocket
engines with an "0" for a time delay are designed for use in
multi-stage rockets. An
engine such as the D12-0 is an excellent example of
such an engine. Immediately after the
thrust period is over, the ejection
charge explodes. If another engine is placed directly
against the back of an
"0" engine, the explosion of the ejection charge will send
hot gasses and
burning particles into the nozzle of the engine above it, and ignite the
thrust section. This will push the used "0" engine off of the rocket, causing
an
overall loss of weight.
The main advantage of a multi-stage rocket is that it loses
weight as
travels, and it gains velocity. A multi-stage rocket must be designed
somewhat
differently than a single stage rocket, since, in order for a rocket
to fly straight, its
center of gravity must be ahead of its center of drag.
This is accomplished by adding weight
to the front of the rocket, or by moving
the center of drag back by putting fins on the rocket
that are well behind the
rocket. A diagram of a multi-stage rocket appears on the following
page:
___
/ \
| |
| C |
| M | —— CM: Crater Maker
|
|
| |
|___|
| |
| |
| |
| C | —— C6-5 rocket engine
/|
6 |\
/ | | | \
/ | 5 | \
/ |___| \ —- fin
/ /| |\ \
/ / | | \ \
/ / | C | \ \
| / | 6 | \ |
| / | | | \ |
| / | 0 | \ |
|/ |___| \|
| / \ |
\______/ ^ \______/ ——- fin
|
|
|
|
The fuse is put in the bottom engine.
Two, three, or
even four stages can be added to a rocket bomb to give it
a longer range. It is important,
however, that for each additional stage, the
fin area gets larger.
6.13
MULTIPLE WARHEAD ROCKET BOMBS
"M.R.V." is an acronym for Multiple Reentry
Vehicle. The concept is
simple: put more than one explosive warhead on a single missile. This
can be
done without too much difficulty by anyone who knows how to make crater-makers
and can buy rocket engines. By attaching crater makers with long fuses to a
rocket, it is
possible that a single rocket could deliver several explosive
devices to a target. Such a
rocket might look like the diagram on the
following page:
___
/ \ The
crater makers are attached to
| | the tube of rolled paper with tape. the
| C | paper
tube is made by rolling and gluing
| M | a 4 inch by 8 inch piece of paper. The
|___|
tube is glued to the engine, and is
___| |___ filled with gunpowder or black powder.
| |
| | Small holes are punched in it, and the
| | T | | fuses of the crater makers are
inserted
/ \ | U | / \ in these holes. A crater maker is glued
/ \| B |/ \ to the open
end of the tube, so that its
| || E || | fuse is inside the tube. A fuse is
| C || || C
| inserted in the engine, or in the bottom
| M || || M | engine if the rocket bomb is multi
\___/| E |\___/ the coathanger launcher,
if a segment of
| N | a plastic straw has been attached to it.
/| G |\
/ | I |
\
/ | N | \
/ | E | \
/ |___| \
/ fin/ | \ fin\
| / | \ |
\__/ |
\__/
^
|____ fin
6.2 CANNON
The cannon is a
piece of artillery that has been in use since the 11th
century. It is not unlike a musket, in
that it is filled with powder, loaded,
and fired. Cannons of this sort must also be cleaned
after each shot,
otherwise, the projectile may jam in the barrel when it is fired, causing
the
barrel to explode. A sociopath could build a cannon without too much trouble,
if
he/she had a little bit of money, and some patience.
6.21 BASIC PIPE CANNON
A simple cannon can be made from a thick pipe by almost anyone. The only
difficult part is finding a pipe that is extremely smooth on its interior.
This is absolutely
necessary; otherwise, the projectile may jam. Copper or
aluminum piping is usually smooth
enough, but it must also be extremely thick
to withstand the pressure developed by the
expanding hot gasses in a cannon.
If one uses a projectile such as a CO2
cartridge, since such a projectile
can be made to explode, a pipe that is about 1.5 – 2 feet
long is ideal. Such
a pipe MUST have walls that are at least 1/3 to 1/2 an inch thick, and be
very
smooth on the interior. If possible, screw an endplug into the pipe.
Otherwise, the
pipe must be crimped and folded closed, without cracking or
tearing the pipe. A small hole is
drilled in the back of the pipe near the
crimp or endplug. Then, all that need be done is fill
the pipe with about two
teaspoons of grade blackpowder or pyrodex, insert a fuse, pack it
lightly by
ramming a wad of tissue paper down the barrel, and drop in a CO2 cartridge.
Brace the cannon securely against a strong structure, light the fuse, and run.
If the person
is lucky, he will not have overcharged the cannon, and he will
not be hit by pieces of
exploding barrel. Such a cannon would look like this:
__________________ fuse hole
|
V
________________________________________________________________
|_______________________________________________________________|
|endplug|powder|t.p.| CO2
cartridge
| ______|______|____|____________________________________________
|_|______________________________________________________________|
An exploding
projectile can be made for this type of cannon with a CO2
cartridge. It is relatively simple
to do. Just make a crater maker, and
construct it such that the fuse projects about an inch
from the end of the
cartridge. Then, wrap the fuse with duct tape, covering it entirely,
except
for a small amount at the end. Put this in the pipe cannon without using a
tissue
paper packing wad.
___
When the cannon is fired, it ( )
will ignite the end of the
|C |
fuse, and shoot the CO2 | M|
cartridge. The | |
explosive-filled cartridge |
|
will explode in about three \ /
seconds, if all goes well. [] <— taped fuse
Such a projectile would look []
like this: []
! <— Bare fuse (add matchheads)
6.22 ROCKET FIRING CANNON
___ A rocket firing cannon can be made exactly
like a
/ \ normal cannon; the only difference is the ammunition. A
| | rocket fired from
a cannon will fly further than a rocket
| C | alone, since the action of shooting it overcomes
the
| M | initial inertia. A rocket that is launched when it is
| | moving will go
further than one that is launched when it
| | is stationary. Such a rocket would resemble a
normal
|___| rocket bomb, except it would have no fins. It would look
| E | like the
image to the left.
| N |
| G | the fuse on such a device would, obviously, be short,
| N | charge exploded. Thus,
the delay before the ejection
| E | charge, in effect, becomes the delay before the bomb
|___| explodes. Note that no fuse need be put in the rocket; the
burning powder in the cannon
will ignite it, and
simultaneously push the rocket out of the cannon at a high
velocity.
7.0 PYROTECHNICA ERRATA
There are many other types of
pyrotechnics that a perpetrator of violence
might employ. Smoke bombs can be purchased in
magic stores, and large military
smoke bombs can be bought through ads in gun and military
magazines. Also,
fireworks can also be used as weapons of terror. A large aerial display
rocket
would cause many injuries if it were to be fired so that it landed on the
ground
near a crowd of people. Even the "harmless" pull-string fireworks,
which consists of
a sort of firecracker that explodes when the strings running
through it are pulled, could be
placed inside a large charge of a sensitive
high explosive. Tear gas is another material that
might well be useful to the
sociopath, and such a material could be instantly disseminated
over a large
crowd by means of a rocket-bomb, with nasty effects.
7.1
SMOKE BOMBS
One type of pyrotechnic device that might be employed by a terrorist in
route, or cause a
diversion, or simply provide cover. Such a device, were it
to produce enough smoke that
smelled bad enough, could force the evacuation of
a building, for example. Smoke bombs are not
difficult to make. Although the
military smoke bombs employ powdered white phosphorus or
titanium compounds,
such materials are usually unavailable to even the most well-equipped
Most
homemade smoke bombs usually employ some type of base powder, such as
black powder or pyrodex,
to support combustion. The base material will burn
well, and provide heat to cause the other
materials in the device to burn, but
not completely or cleanly. Table sugar, mixed with sulfur
and a base material,
produces large amounts of smoke. Sawdust, especially if it has a small
amount
of oil in it, and a base powder works well also. Other excellent smoke
ingredients are small pieces of rubber, finely ground plastics, and many
chemical mixtures.
The material in road flares can be mixed with sugar and
sulfur and a base powder produces much
smoke. Most of the fuel-oxodizer
mixtures, if the ratio is not correct, produce much smoke
when added to a base
powder. The list of possibilities goes on and on. The trick to a
successful
smoke bomb also lies in the container used. A plastic cylinder works well, and
enters must be
large enough to allow the material to burn without causing an
explosion. This is another plus
for plastic containers, since they will melt
and burn when the smoke material ignites,
producing an opening large enough to
prevent an explosion.
7.2 COLORED FLAMES
Colored flames can often be used as a signaling device for terrorists. by
putting a
ball of colored flame material in a rocket; the rocket, when the
ejection charge fires, will
send out a burning colored ball. The materials that
produce the different colors of flames
appear below.
COLOR MATERIAL USED IN
red strontium road flares,
salts red sparklers
(strontium
nitrate)
green barium salts green sparklers
(barium nitrate)
yellow sodium salts gold sparklers
(sodium nitrate)
blue powdered copper blue sparklers,
old pennies
white powdered
magnesium firestarters,
or aluminum aluminum foil
purple potassium permanganate
purple fountains,
treating sewage
7.3 TEAR GAS
A terrorist who
could make tear gas or some similar compound could use it
with ease against a large number of
people. Tear gas is fairly complicated to
make, however, and this prevents such individuals
from being able to utilize
its great potential for harm. One method for its preparation is
shown below.
EQUIPMENT FOR MAKING TEAR GAS
_________
1. ring stands (2) 7. clamp holder
2. alcohol burner 8. condenser
3. erlenmeyer flask,
300 ml 9. rubber tubing
4. clamps (2) 10. collecting flask
5. rubber stopper 11. air
trap
6. glass tubing 12. beaker, 300 ml
MATERIALS
_________
10
gms glycerine 2 gms sodium bisulfate distilled water
1.) In an open area, wearing a gas
mask, mix 10 gms of glycerine with 2 gms
of sodium bisulfate in the 300 ml erlenmeyer
flask.
2.) Light the alcohol burner, and gently heat the flask.
3.) The
mixture will begin to bubble and froth; these bubbles are tear gas.
4.) When the
mixture being heated ceases to froth and generate gas, or a
brown residue becomes visible in
the tube, the reaction is complete.
Remove the heat source, and dispose of the heated mixture,
as it is
corrosive.
5.) The material that condenses in the condenser and drips
into the collecting
flask is tear gas. It must be capped tightly, and stored in a safe
place.
7.4 FIREWORKS
While fireworks cannot really be used as an
effective means of terror,
they do have some value as distractions or incendiaries. There are
several
basic types of fireworks that can be made in the home, whether for fun,
profit,
or nasty uses.
7.41 FIRECRACKERS
A simple firecracker can be made from
cardboard tubing and epoxy. The
instructions are below:
1) Cut a small piece of
cardboard tubing from the tube you are using.
"Small" means anything less than 4
times the diameter of the tube.
2) Set the section of tubing down on a piece of wax
paper, and fill it
with epoxy and the drying agent to a height of 3/4 the diameter of the
package.
insert a desired length
of fuse.
4) Fill the tube with any type of flame-sensitive explosive. Flash
powder, pyrodex, black powder, potassium picrate, lead azide, nitrocellulose,
or any of the
fast burning fuel-oxodizer mixtures will do nicely. Fill the
tube almost to the top.
a pencil or other
suitable ramrod. Be sure to leave enough space for more
epoxy.
6) Fill the
remainder of the tube with the epoxy and hardener, and allow
it to dry.
7) For
those who wish to make spectacular firecrackers, always use flash
powder, mixed with a small
amount of other material for colors. By crushing
the material on a sparkler, and adding it to
the flash powder, the explosion
will be the same color as the sparkler. By adding small chunks
of sparkler
material, the device will throw out colored burning sparks, of the same color
White sparks can
be produced from magnesium shavings, or from small, LIGHTLY
crumpled balls of aluminum
foil.
Example: Suppose I wish to make a firecracker that will explode
with a red
flash, and throw out white sparks.
First, I would take a road flare, and finely powder
the material
inside it. Or, I could take a red sparkler, and finely powder it.
Then, I
would mix a small amount of this material with the flash powder.
(NOTE: FLASH POWDER MAY REACT
WITH SOME MATERIALS THAT IT IS MIXED WITH, AND
EXPLODE SPONTANEOUSLY!) I would mix it in a
ratio of 9 parts flash powder to
1 part of flare or sparkler material, and add about 15 small
balls of aluminum
foil I would store the material in a plastic bag overnight outside of the
would test a
small amount of it, and if it was satisfactory, I would put it in
the firecracker.
If this type of firecracker is mounted on a rocket engine,
professional to
semi-professional displays can be produced.
7.42 SKYROCKETS
An
impressive home made skyrocket can easily be made in the home from
model rocket engines. Estes
engines are recommended.
1) Buy an Estes Model Rocket Engine of the desired size,
remembering that
the power doubles with each letter. (See sect. 6.1 for details)
2) Either buy a section of body tube for model rockets that exactly fits
the engine, or make a
tube from several thicknesses of paper and glue.
3) Scrape out the clay backing on the
back of the engine, so that the
powder is exposed. Glue the tube to the engine, so that the
tube covers at
least half the engine. Pour a small charge of flash powder in the tube,
about
1/2 an inch.
4) By adding materials as detailed in the section on
firecrackers,
various types of effects can be produced.
5) By putting Jumping
Jacks or bottle rockets without the stick
in the tube, spectacular displays with moving
fireballs or M.R.V.’s can be
produced.
6) Finally, by mounting many home made
firecrackers on the tube with
the fuses in the tube, multiple colored bursts can be made.
7.43 ROMAN CANDLES
Roman candles are impressive to watch. They are
relatively difficult to
make, compared to the other types of home-made fireworks, but they are
well
worth the trouble.
1) Buy a 1/2 inch thick model rocket body tube, and
reinforce it with
several layers of paper and/or masking tape. This must be done to prevent
the
tube from exploding. Cut the tube into about 10 inch lengths.
2) Put the tube
on a sheet of wax paper, and seal one end with epoxy
and the drying agent. About 1/2 of an
inch is sufficient.
3) Put a hole in the tube just above the bottom layer of epoxy,
and
insert a desired length of water proof fuse. Make sure that the fuse
fits
tightly.
4) Pour about 1 inch of pyrodex or gunpowder down the open end of the
tube.
5) Make a ball by powdering about two 6 inch sparklers of the desired
color. Mix this powder with a small amount of flash powder and a small
amount of pyrodex, to
have a final ratio (by volume) of 60% sparkler material
/ 20% flash powder / 20% pyrodex.
After mixing the powders well, add water,
one drop at a time, and mixing continuously, until a
damp paste is formed.
This paste should be moldable by hand, and should retain its shape
when
left alone. Make a ball out of the paste that just fits into the tube. Allow
the
ball to dry.
6) When it is dry, drop the ball down the tube. It should slide down
it gently against the
ball with a pencil.
7) When ready to use, put the candle in a hole in the ground,
pointed in
a safe direction, light the fuse, and run. If the device works, a colored
fireball should shoot out of the tube to a height of about 30 feet. This
height can be
increased by adding a slightly larger powder charge in step 4,
or by using a slightly longer
tube.
If the ball does not ignite, add slightly more pyrodex in step 5.
9) The balls made for roman candles also function very well in rockets,
producing an effect
of falling colored fireballs.
8.0 LISTS OF SUPPLIERS AND MORE INFORMATION
Most, if not all, of the information in this publication can be obtained
through a public or
university library. There are also many publications that
are put out by people who want to
make money by telling other people how to
make explosives at home. Adds for such appear
frequently in paramilitary
magazines and newspapers. This list is presented to show the large
number of
places that information and materials can be purchased from. It also
includes
fireworks companies and the like.
COMPANY NAME AND ADDRESS WHAT COMPANY SELLS
FULL
AUTO CO. INC. EXPLOSIVE RECIPES,
P.O. BOX 1881 PAPER TUBING
MURFREESBORO, TN
37133
UNLIMITED CHEMICALS AND FUSE
BOX 1378-SN
HERMISTON, OREGON
97838
AMERICAN FIREWORKS NEWS FIREWORKS NEWS MAGAZINE WITH
SR BOX 30 SOURCES AND
TECHNIQUES
DINGMAN’S FERRY, PENNSYLVANIA 18328
BARNETT INTERNATIONAL INC. BOWS,
CROSSBOWS, ARCHERY MATERIALS,
125 RUNNELS STREET AIR RIFLES
P.O. BOX 226
PORT
HURON, MICHIGAN 48060
CROSSMAN AIR GUNS AIR GUNS
P.O. BOX 22927
ROCHESTER,
NEW YORK
14692
R. ALLEN PROFESSIONAL FIREWORKS CONSTRUCTION
P.O. BOX 146
BOOKS & FORMULAS
WILLOW GROVE, PA 19090
MJ DISTRIBUTING FIREWORKS FORMULAS
YAKIMA,WA 98909
EXECUTIVE PROTECTION PRODUCTS INC. TEAR GAS
GRENADES,
316 CALIFORNIA AVE. PROTECTION DEVICES
RENO, NEVADA
89509
COMPANY NAME AND ADDRESS WHAT COMPANY SELLS
ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ
BADGER
FIREWORKS CO. INC. CLASS "B" AND "C" FIREWORKS BOX 1451
JANESVILLE,
WISCONSIN
53547
NEW ENGLAND FIREWORKS CO. INC. CLASS "C" FIREWORKS P.O.
BOX 3504
STAMFORD, CONNECTICUTT
06095
RAINBOW TRAIL CLASS "C"
FIREWORKS BOX 581
EDGEMONT, PENNSYLVANIA 19028
STONINGTON FIREWORKS INC. CLASS
"C" AND "B" FIREWORKS 4010 NEW
WILSEY BAY U.25 ROAD
RAPID RIVER,
MICHIGAN 49878
WINDY CITY FIREWORKS INC. CLASS "C" AND "B"
FIREWORKS
P.O. BOX 11 (GOOD PRICES!)
ROCHESTER, INDIANA 46975
BOOKS
ÄÄÄÄÄ
THE ANARCHIST’S COOKBOOK
THE IMPROVISED MUNITIONS MANUAL
MILITARY EXPLOSIVES
FIRES AND EXPLOSIONS
9.0 CHECKLIST FOR
RAIDS ON LABS
In the end, the serious terrorist would probably realize that if
he/she
wishes to make a truly useful explosive, he or she will have to steal the
chemicals to make the explosive from a lab. A list of such chemicals in order
of priority
would probably resemble the following:
LIQUIDS SOLIDS
_______ ______
____ Nitric Acid ____ Potassium Perchlorate
____ Sulfuric Acid ____ Potassium Chlorate
____ 95% Ethanol ____ Picric Acid (usually a powder)
____ Toluene ____ Ammonium Nitrate
____ Perchloric Acid ____ Powdered Magnesium
____ Hydrochloric Acid ____ Powdered Aluminum
GASES ____ Sulfur (flowers of)
_______ ____ Mercury
____ Potassium Nitrate
____ Hydrogen ____ Potassium Hydroxide
____ Oxygen ____
Phosphorus
____ Chlorine ____ Sodium Azide
____ Carbon Dioxide ____ Lead Acetate
____ Barium Nitrate
10.0 USEFUL PYROCHEMISTRY
In general, it is possible
to make many chemicals from just a few basic
ones. A list of useful chemical reactions is
presented. It assumes knowledge
of general chemistry; any individual who does not understand
the following
reactions would merely have to read the first five chapters of a high school
1. potassium perchlorate from perchloric acid and potassium
hydroxide
K(OH) + HClO —-> KClO + H O
4 4 2
2. potassium nitrate from
nitric acid and potassium hydroxide
" + HNO —-> KNO + "
3 3
3. ammonium perchlorate from perchloric acid and ammonium hydroxide
NH OH + HClO —-> NH
ClO + "
3 4 3 4
4. ammonium nitrate from nitric acid and ammonium hydroxide
NH OH + HNO —-> NH NO + "
3 3 3 3
5. powdered aluminum from acids,
aluminum foil, and magnesium
A. aluminum foil + 6HCl —-> 2AlCl + 3H
3 2
B. 2AlCl (aq) + 3Mg —-> 3MgCl (aq) + 2Al
3 2
The Al will be a very
fine silvery powder at the bottom of the container
which must be filtered and dried. This same
method works with nitric and
sulfuric acids, but these acids are too valuable in the
production of high
explosives to use for such a purpose, unless they are available in great
11.0 ABOUT THE AUTHOR
The author, who wishes his name to be
unknown, is presently attending a
college in the United States of America, majoring in
Engineering. He was
raised by his parents on the East Coast, and received his high school
eight years
of age. At age twelve, he produced his first explosive device; it
was slightly more powerful
than a large firecracker. He continued to produce
explosive devices for several years. He also
became interested in model
rocketry, and has built several rockets from kits, and designed his
own
rockets.
While in high school, the author became affiliated with CHAOS, and
eventually became the head of Gunzenbomz Pyro-Technologies. At this time, at
age 18, he
produced his first high explosive device, putting a 1 foot deep
crater in an associate’s back
yard. He had also produced many types of
rockets, explosive ammunition, and other pyrotechnic
devices.
While he was heading Gunzenbomz Pyro-Technologies, he was injured when a
home
made device exploded in his hand; he did not make the device. The author
learned, however, and
then decided to reform, and although he still
constructs an occasional explosive device, he
chooses to abstain from their
production.
An occasional rocket that produces effects
similar to that of professional
displays can sometimes be seen in the midnight sky near his
college, and the
Fourth of July is still his favorite day of the year.
Pax et
Discordia,
the Author
Addendum 4/12/91 by kadokev [at] iitvax [dot] iit [dot] edu
END OF PART 1 OF THE COMPLEAT TERRORIST
PART 2 – Tennis ball cannons
—— Information from the Usenet. The Usenet is a worldwide network of
15,000 machines and
over 500,000 people- And growing!
Addendum by David Richards:
The POINT BBS at
(312) 338-0632 offers free access to several usenet
message areas.
Addendum by
The Editor: If you aren’t in the Chicago area,
check a local BBS list. If you see a BBS which
runs under UNIX,
odds are it carries usenet. The appropriate place to look is
rec.pyrotechnics.
At this time (twelve years ago) most soft drink cans were
rolled tin rather
than the molded aluminum. We would cut the tops and bottoms off of a
bunch
of them and tape them together with duct tape, forming a tube of two feet or
more.
At the end we would tape a can with the bottom intact, more holes
punched (with a
can opener) around the top, and a small hole in the side at
the base. We then fastened this
contraption to a tripod so we could aim it
reliably. Any object that came somewhat close to
filling the tube was then
placed therein.
In the shop, we used the clock as a
target and an empty plastic
solder spool as ammunition, with tape over the ends of the center
hole and
sometimes filled with washers for weight. When taken to parties or picnics,
we
would use whatever was handy. Hot dog rolls or napkins filled with potato
chips provided
spectacular entertainment.
Once loaded, a small amount of lighter fluid was poured into
the hole
in the side of the end can and allowed to vaporize for a few moments. The
"fire control technician" would announce "Fire in the Hole" and ignite it.
BOOM! Whoosh! The clock never worked after that!
———-
Our version of the
potatoe chip cannon, was built similarly. Ours used
coke cans, six with the top and bottom
removed, and the seventh had church
key holes all around one end. This was spiral wrapped with
at least two
rolls of duct tape.
A wooden shoulder rest and forward hand grip was taped
to the tube. For
ignition we used lantern batteries to a model-t coil, actuated by a push
back to the
grid, and a drop or two of lighter fluid was dropped in one of
two holes in the end. The
ignition wire was poked through the other hole.
We would then lie in ambush, waiting
for somthing to move. When fired
with the proper air/fuel mixture, a satisfying thoomp! At
maximum range the
ball would travel about 100 yards with a 45 degree launch angle. Closer
up
the ball would leave a welt on an warring opponent. When launched at a
moving car the
thud as it hit the door would generally rattle anyone inside.
Luckily we never completed the
one that shot golf balls.
PART 3 – Fun with dry ice. LOTS of fun with dry ice.
Also from the Usenet.
> … if you fill a pot with boiling water, then add some
dishsoap, and then
> drop in a large chunk of dry ice, you get a large number of bubbles
VERY
> quickly. We’re talking terabubbles. Do this outside or you will be sorry.
>into the
bottom of the deep end, it’s safe, and it’s really impressive if the
>water is warm
enuff
from _FM 10-0: TRICKS, AWFUL_ (includes material from rec.humor):
DRY ICE
Time Bombs:
1. Get a small plastic container with lid (we used the
small plastic cans
that hold the coaters used for large-format Polaroid film). A film
canister
would probably work; the key is, it should seal tightly and take a fair
amount
of effort to open).
Place a chunk of dry ice in the can, put on the lid without quite
sealing it.
Put the assembled bomb in your pocket, or behind your back.
Approach
the mark and engage in normal conversation. When his attention is
drawn away, quickly seal the
lid on the bomb, deposit it somewhere within a
few feet of the mark, out of obvious sight,
then leave.
Depending on variables (you’ll want to experiment first), you’ll hear a
loud
"pop" and an even louder "Aarrggghhh!" within a minute, when the CO2
pressure
becomes sufficient to blow off the lid.
In a cluttered lab, this is
doubly nasty because the mark will proabably
never figure out what made the noise.
chunks of dry
ice as possible before the smoke gets too thick. Screw on the
cap, place in an appropriate
area, and run like hell. After about a minute
(your mileage may vary), a huge explosion will
result, spraying water
everywhere, along with what’s left of the 2-liter bottle.
More things to do with Dry Ice:
"I put it in my teacher’s coffee. (Holy sh-t, the place
is on fire!)"
"Throw it in toilets. (Creature from the Brown Lagoon)"
"Make soda from ordinary juice, etc."
"Blow up balloons and condoms with it
(Put a chunk in a balloon, tie up
the end.)"
"Fun stuff. It SCREAMS
when it comes into contact with metal…" "You can
safely hold a small piece of dry
ice in your mouth if you KEEP IT MOVING
CONSTANTLY. It looks like you’re smoking or on
fire." Fluorescein (the stuff
in navy-surplus sea dye markers) is effective in swimming
pools. Or try a
"Baby Ruth" candy bar…
PART 4
More Fun
Stuff for Terrorists
Carbide Bomb
This is EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. Exercise
extreme caution…. Obtain some calcium
carbide. This is the stuff that is used in carbide
lamps and can be found at
nearly any hardware store.
Take a few pieces of this stuff (it
looks like gravel) and put it in a
glass jar with some water. Put a lid on tightly. The
carbide will react with
the water to produce acetylene carbonate which is similar to the gas
used in
cutting torches.
Eventually the glass with explode from internal pressure. If
you leave a
burning rag nearby, you will get a nice fireball!
Portable Grenade
Launcher
If you have a bow, this one is for you. Remove the ferrule from an aluminum
easy)and then glue
a shotshell primer into the hole left where the ferrule
went. Next, glue a BB on the primer,
and you are ready to go! Make sure no one
is nearby…. Little shreds of aluminim go all over
the place!!
Auto Exhaust Flame Thrower
For this one, all you need is a
car, a sparkplug, ignition wire and a switch.
Install the spark plug into the last four or
five inches of the tailpipeby
drilling a hole that the plug can screw into easily. Attach the
wire (this is
regular insulated wire) to one side of the switch and to the spark plug. The
With the car
running, simply hit the switch and watch the flames fly!!! Again be
careful that no one is
behind you! I have seen some of these flames go 20
feet!!!
PART 5- This is all
various files I gleaned from BBS’s. (Added 8-23-90)
This works best if you happen to
have a lot of derelict friends, as I
do… Your first day of school you should bring the
following items, to
insure a prosperous school year:
1) Fountain pen (and extra
ink refills)
2) 3 tubes of Super Glue (Krazy Glue)
3) Pennies (about $1.00 worth)
5) Mirror (small hand held)
6) Liquid
soap
7) Lighter, (matches as alternate)
Firecrackers (ladyfingers are great)
9) Screwdrivers and other tools (small)
10) Small squeezable bottles (like nasal
de-congestant type)
11) Wire (10-20 ft)
12) Tape recorder mic. (batter operated pref.)
13) Ziplock baggies
14) Half of an orange
15) Light bulb (75 watts and over are
great)
This will do for now… Some of the cool things to do are, take the
pennies and glue them to the cafeteria tables, (and watch the custodians try
to get ‘em off).
(this also looks good with silver dollars glued to the fire
alarm (so it goes off when the
custodian attempts to remove the coin) and to
a door someplace… (principals preferably)
Another thing to do with a coin is, heat it up over a bunsen burner (in
chem) and
just as the bell rings, toss the coin into the hall, I will
guarantee you will know when the
coin is picked up… While you’re using the
bunsen burner, fill your little squeeze bottle
with gas, then cap it tight and
put it in your pocket… later, take a firecracker, and glue
it to the
bottle, use a cigarette as a fuse extension, then put it in the bathroom, and
get to class fast… (gas and glue make a nice flame)…
While you’re in the bathroom, place a
light bulb over the door, and
when the superintendent goes to see what the explosion was, he
gets a nice
little surprise…
Now for the wire, if you can access a room near your
locker, when no
one is in the room, take off the speaker cover on the PA system, and hook 2
your friends
out of classes… Just ask for them… (use your tools for that
one, and try to be neat about
it)…
Now for your mirror, you can use this for getting your, uh…
"Friend’s" locker combination… after you get that, take that little baggie
you
got, and put the orange in it… let it sit for a week or four, then open
the baggie, and
place it in your friends locker… I can guarantee he/ she
will love it…
Another thing that is fun to do, is, Take a penny, and glue it over
the key hole on your
friends gym locker, just after he goes out, thus he has
to truck around all day in his gym
stuff, (unless you rent him your
screwdriver to pry the penny off)
Balloons are
fun to play with in chem lab, fill them with the gas
that you get out of the taps on the lab
desks, then tie up the balloon
tight, and drop it out the window to the burnouts below, you
know, the ones
that are always smoking, they love to pop balloons with lit cigarette….
get
the picture? Good…
Those fountain pens are cool, because if you make a
slight jerking
motion with your hand, ink squirts all over the room, (or person, whatever
of those, it
makes it too easy to find out who did it when there’s ink all
over the principals face… (or
on the floors, walls, and ceilings…)
Liquid soap is great for use in crowded
hallways, it turns every-body
into a ice skating star, (works especially well when people come
in from the
rain)… If your school is anything like the one I go to, people never flush
the toilets, A little liquid soap in here makes for a nice surprise, I mean,
what happens when
the soap is not flushed out of the toilet, and the suds
aren’t flushed out either? The
janitors have a really good time trying to
figure out that one… (glue a quarter in one of
the urinals, always fun)…
Turn off the water under the sinks too. Getting back to the soap,
it is also
good on the hand railings in hall-ways and on steps, If you mix perfume with
it, some poor grub has to have that stench on him all day.
– The Dark Side (312) – 787
- 2174 / Exilic Xyth – Sysop / 24 hours 9600
The Modern Speeders Guide to Radar and State
Troopers
By : Exilic Xyth January 11, 1988
Introduction:
Touched off
by the discussion on Ripco <312>-528-5020, I found many
users asking questions about
police radar, radar detectors, and speeding. With
Ron Majors talking about the oil spill that
will appear in detail on the news
at ten I thought a informative file on the subject might be
beneficial. I
myself had my first experience with police radar in my fathers car, then
following in baseball and my own driving, much more on the subject. What a
fascinating device,
that it will return your speed instantly, what fun one
would be to have! After a quick talk
with a police friend of mine, I soon
took possession of a used police radar gun.
Part one: Operation.
Police Radar works via the doppler effect, best demonstrated by
sound
rather than microwaves. The doppler effect is the relation of speed to the
pitch
of ’sound’. Sometime, all of you must have had the distinct pleasure of
being honked at by a
motorist on the go, you might have noticed that the horn
<an F flat on most american
cars> begins with a higher pitch and as the car
passes, drowns off to a lower tone. The
sound waves at the front of the car
are pressed together by the forward motion of the car,
creating a higher
pitch. As the car passes, the tone dies off to a lower pitch because the
Police radar works in much the same way. The major differences
are the
frequency and the concentration of the carrier. As of 1988, the F.C.C. is
rumored to have lifted restrictions on police radar frequencies. Before, only
two frequencies
were approved for police radar use. X-band <10.525 GHz> which
is most commonly used, and
K-band <24.15 Ghz>. I will assume for now, due to
lack of any SOLID evidence supporting
the restriction lift, that those are the
only two in operation. Police radar ‘beams’ are
similar in shape to a
flashlight beam. They begin with a thin width and cone outwards with
ft., although
high power units can exceed 2500 and 3000ft., and K-band guns
fall shorter at about 1200 ft..
At 1500ft., the radar beam becomes about the
width of four highway lanes, so for practical
purposes radars range is around
1700 ft..
A radar signal transmitted from the
‘Radar Gun’s’ transmitter, (called the
oscillator) will bounce off a object and return to the
radar receiver (or
antenna). If the object is moving, the frequency of the beam will be
altered
as it bounces. This is most easily visualized watching water ripples. Assume
now
that I have just dropped a pebble in a pond, and the ripples are moving
outward, assume also
for purposes of simplicity that the ripples are moving at
1 foot per second, and that they are
one foot apart. The ripples are
therefore also one second apart. Upon bouncing off a
stationary object the
ripples will return weakened, but at the same interval and speed <Not
really
the same speed, but let’s not complicate things>.
Now let us assume
that a toy boat is traveling in the water at .5 ft. per
second, 1/2 the speed of the ripples,
away from the point which I dropped the
pebble. Assume the first ripple has hit the boat and
is traveling back. The
second ripple now traveling at 1 foot per second is only gaining on the
boat
by .5 feet per second <1 ft. per second – .5 ft. per second>. This means
that
the ripple is one foot away from the boat, as the ripples are one foot
apart. The ripple will
take 2 second to reach the boat, as the closure speed
is .5 ft. per second and the distance is
1 foot. The ripple strikes the boat
and bounces back two seconds after the first ripple. The
process works
inversely for an object moving towards the pebbles point of impact.
As the distance between the ripples can be determined by the speed, on the
other side, the
speed can be determined by the distance between the ripples.
Police radar works in the same
way with microwaves. The microwave signal
bounces off a moving vehicle and returns altered in
frequency. In this way
the radar unit determines the speed of the object.
Radar
is only accurate when the object is moving directly at, or directly
away from the gun,
although some modern guns will account for this ‘COSINE
error’, most won’t. Cosine error can
be defined as this: When a radar signal
bounces off an object at an angle from the objects
direction of travel it will
return a portion of the objects speed computed by the cosine of
the infraction
angle. If the angle of the objects direction and the radars direction is 20
cos (20) =
.93969262 * objects speed = returned speed.
For example: A car is traveling at 75
m.p.h.. The state trooper, in his
infinite wisdom, decides to "Clock" the automobile
in hopes of meeting his
quota for the month. Picking up his handy radar gun, he aims, and
fires an
invisible beam of microwave energy. The officer however, being the rookie he
is, leaves a high angle between the cars direction and his beam of 45 degrees.
Cos (45) =
.707106781 .707106781 * 75m.p.h. = 53.03300859 53 m.p.h. is
displayed on the officers screen.
Lucky motorist. Sorry 40 column users.
|\
| \
| \
| \ – Cosine Error
-
| \
| 45 \
| deg. \ – radar beam
| \
| \
v \
Direction
of \
cars travel \
\
X – state trooper.
Part 2: Application
estimate that over 25%
of them were in error. Police have been using radar
for speed control for many years, and as
the technology has become more
complex and accurate, so has the ability to get away with the
slight
infractions of the speed limits set by the government become more difficult.
In
recent years, the three most damaging advances to motorists in radar
technology include:
A> Instant on radar.
B> K-band radar.
and C> Cosine error correcting
radar units.
Instant on radar.
With the increase of radar receivers, or
"Detectors" on the roads,
police have attempted to bypass the motorists first line
of defense. The most
damaging advance in the war against speeding motorists is instant on
radar.
The idea behind instant on radar is to make the radar detector useless to the
motorist by making his warning too late to react to. Instant on radar was
developed in early
1983, but never marketed until late 1984 when the michigan
state troopers were equipped with
the first instant on radar guns. It
operates by deactivating the oscillator until triggered by
the officer. When
used properly and under the right traffic conditions, it is indefensible.
It
works like a camera, the officer operating the radar will position himself
behind a
blind corner or over a hill. When the approaching car crests the
hill or rounds the corner,
the officer will activate the oscillator, taking a
"snapshot" of your car. As
microwaves travel at the speed of light, any
attempt at slowing down is futile, the officer
behind the gun has your speed
in less than a tenth of a second.
K-band Radar.
there was only one type
of radar. X-band. In an attempt to increase the
dwindling speeding ticket revenue, K-band was
brought to life. K- band is a
different frequency that could not be picked up by the primitive
detectors of
the age. However, as the frequency got out, the detectors adapted, and now
any detector worth a dollar will detect both X and K bands. K band is more
dangerous as most
K-band guns are instant on and they have less ‘Splash’ and
range than X-band guns. This means
that a K-band signal is probably closer to
you.
Cosine error correcting guns.
Cosine error was a major falling of radar in the judicial system, all
readings were
under question in court, the result was a gun which will correct
for cosine error by
determining the angle which the radar beam "impacts" with
the car. Also new in
correcting cosine error were guns with ‘Speed lock on’
in which the highest speed reading
received by the gun is locked in and
displayed.
Moving radar guns.
Until new developments, all radar units had to remain stationary as
radar measures only
closure speed, and not actual speed. Moving radar ended
this trend. Moving radar works like
this. First the radar gun determines the
patrol cars speed by clocking a sign or fixed object.
The closing speed of
the patrol car to the sign is subtracted from the now taken closing speed
to
the target car.
Patrols speed – 60 m.p.h.
Closing speed to car – 120
m.p.h.
120 m.p.h. – 60 m.p.h. = 60 m.p.h..
Part 3: Defense
From the
dawn of speed enforcement, motorists have sought to defeat the
laws, starting with detectors,
continuing to jammers and topping out with the
new ‘CHiPs detectors’ The unfortunate
conditions now favor the police and law
enforcement officials with the introduction of new
radar technologies such as
instant on radar.
Detectors:
The simple
radar receiver is the first line of defense
from radar. Varied in operation and features, the
radar detectors of today are
designed to provide high sensitivity and low rates of false
alarms. Good
detectors will measure signal strength and type <K or X> and have an
effective
range of about 3000 ft. and a probable range of well over a mile. Sensitivity
tops out around 110.5 dBm/cm^2 for X band and 108 dBm/cm^2 for K band <Both set
by the
passport>. A detector can give you an excellent advantage over radar by
alerting you it’s
there. Detectors become especially useful in chicago where
instant on radar is not typically
used.
Jammers:
Radar jammers are essentially units that transmit microwaves at
a
frequency dictating a certain speed. The result is regardless of your speed,
the
police radar unit will display the speed you set the jammer to transmit.
Jammers are highly
illegal and will be confiscated if discovered, expect a
stiff fine.
Chip’s
detector.
This is a new device, which is really a scanner on the police radio
band. It takes advantage of a signal transmitted by the patrol cars in some
states as part of
their dispatch system. The signal carries for about three
miles, and the Chip’s Detector will
alert you if you are within that range of
a highway patrol unit. It also allows scanning of
police radio channels.
Last words.
Radar is a basically accurate
instrument, when used properly, it can be
deadly. As I have said before instant on radar is
impossible to avoid when
there is no other traffic around, regardless of a detector. The only
thing
that comes close is a Radar Jammer, which will most likely not serve you well
unless it is WELL hidden. Radar jammers are dangerous with the introduction
of the HAWK, a
radar unit by Kustom Signals, which DETECTS radar jammers in
the hold mode.
Aside
from radar, VASCAR <Visual average speed computer and recorder> is
a new danger to
motorists. It is basically a stopwatch used to time your
movement between two point of which
the interval distance is known.
Using the formula Average velocity = distance / time, the
state trooper
can determine your speed without setting off your detector.
Instant
on radar defense.
The only real defense for instant on radar is traffic. Traffic
will
cause the trooper to activate his radar gun more often, cluing you into his
presence. A jammer well hidden will help, but the best technique is to follow
a car making
good time. Any police units in the area will clock him first,
and legally they have to ticket
him, unless you’re too close.
Remember:
Do not speed, it is a dangerous
practice, and I can not be responsible for
any injury, or action due to this file, it is for
informational purposes
only. The state troopers enforce speed limits for your safety.
Radar guns: Models.
Radar guns are manufactured by many different companies, but
the
primary ones are Kustom Signals, M.p.h. Industries, and Decatur. The
deadliest gun
now available is the HAWK manufactured by Kustom Signals. It is
the first gun capable of
clocking cars moving the SAME direction as the patrol
car. It has two antennas, one forward,
and one back. Like I stated before,
it is also the first gun capable of detecting radar
jammers. These run about
$~2000
Kr-11
This gun is a two piece model which
uses a weak pulse signal in the
moving mode to determine the patrol car’s speed while not
triggering
detectors. This gun permits a faster clocking time for instant on moving
radar, it runs about $~1200
Falcon
This is a hand held gun operating on K band
Small and compact it is
preferred among law enforcement radars. It runs about 600$
400,500,750$ respectively, these are hand held radar guns made by
Kustom Signals
All these units are available to you via me for less than the
troopers
pay for them. For prices, and statistics, call my board at (312) – 787 – 2174
or send me mail at Ripco (312) 528-5020
Prices for radar units range from 250-2000$
detector.
Picking combo locks:
Ok, so ya say ya wanna learn how to pick combination locks…This
text
file should help you. As a matter of fact, if ya do it right, it will help
you.
is locked, there is
a curved piece of metal wedged inside the little notch on
the horseshoe shaped bar that is
pushed in to the lock when you lock it.
To free this wedge, you usually have to turn the lock
to the desired
combination and the pressure on the wedge is released therefore letting the
without having to
waste all that time turning the combination (this also helps
when ya don’t know the
combination to begin with).
First of all, ya need to find a hairpin. What’s a hairpin? Well,
just
ask your mom. She will have one. If she asks what its for, say ya gotta hold
something together… If she says use a rubberband or use a paperclip,
go to the store and rip
off a box of 50 or so.
Once you have your hair pin (make sure it’s metal), take the ridged
side
and break it off right before it starts to make a U-turn onto the straight
side.
The curved part t can now be used as a handle. Now, using a file, file
down the other end
until it is fairly thin. You should do this to many
hairpins and file them so they are of
different thicknesses so you can pick
various locks. Some locks are so cheap that ya don’t
even have ta file! But
most are not.
Ok, now you have a lock pick. Now if ya haven’t
figured it out, here’s how
ya use it. You look at a lock to see which side the lock opens
from. If you
can’t tell, you will just have to try both sides. When ya find out what side
the
horseshoe-shaped bar on whichever side the lock opens from.
Now, put pressure on the handle of
the lock pick (pushing down, into the
crack) and pull the lock up and down. The lock will then
open because the
pick separated the wedge and the notch allowing us thieves to open it.
Don’t
say bullshit until you’ve tried it. Because I have gotten lots of beer money
from
doin’ this to fellow students’ gym lockers.
Also, this technique works best on American locks.
I have never picked a
Master lock before because of the shape a pressure of the wedge but if
anyone
does it, let me know how long it took. Also, the Master lock casing is very
tight
so ya can’t get the pick in. So, if you’re locking something valuable
up, use a Master, cuz at
least ya know I won’t be picking it and I’m sure
there aren’t that many that could. And when I
say pick, i don’t mean lighting
a stick of dynamite next to the lock, picking is opening a
lock without using
force, making a substitute key, etc…
If any of you believe that
this information is not sufficient for picking
an American lock, or any other kind besides
Master, leave me a message at
/\/\etallant 1 (503) 538-0761. This concludes my text file on
picking
combination locks. My next text file will probably be "Picking key
locks".
See ya later, The Byte basher.
How to pick MASTER locks By Gin Fizz
& Ninja NYC
Have you ever tried to impress your friends by picking one of those
Master
combination locks and failed? Well then read on. The Master lock company has
made
this kind of lock with a protection scheme. If you pull the handle of it
hard, the knob won’t
turn. That was their biggest mistake…… Ok, now on
to it.
1st number. Get out
any of the Master locks so you know what’s going on.
1: The handle part (the part that springs
open when you get the combination),
pull on it, but not enough so that the knob won’t move. 2:
While pulling on
it turn the knob to the left until it won’t move any more. Then add 5 to
this
number. Congradulations, you now have the 1st number.
2nd number. (a lot
tougher) Ok, spin the dial around a couple of times,
then go to the 1st number you got, then
turn it to the right, bypassing the
1st number once. WHEN you have bypassed. Start pulling the
handle and
turning it. It will eventually fall into the groove and lock. While in the
groove pull on it and turn the knob. If it is loose go to the next groove; if
it’s stiff you
got the second number.
3rd number: After getting the 2nd, spin the dial, then enter the
2
numbers, then after the 2nd, go to the right and at all the numbers pull on
it. The
lock will eventually open if you did it right. If can’t do it the
first time, be patient, it
takes time.
Addendum 4/12/91: I’ve tried this, and it no longer seems to work (master
wised up)
HOWEVER- the "MASTER warded padlock" locks are easily
picked…
These are the lock with the keys that look like this:
_ _
/ \_[]_[]__[]_[] A cross section looks like this: \_/ \
\_/ [] [] [] []
Just file
the key down so it looks like this:
_ _
/ \___________[] A cross section looks
like this: ~~~~~
\_/ []
Now you can bypass the wards… sometimes you have to
pull the key up and
down, turning as you pass each block, to release the latch.
*End Addendum
PYROTECHNICAL DELIGHTS
WRITTEN BY RAGNER ROCKER
Many of you out there probably have fantasies of revenge against teachers,
principals
and other people who are justassholes. depending on your level of
hatred of this person i
would advise that you do some of these following
experiments:
(1) Pouring
dishsoap into the gas tank of your enemy- many of you already
know that gasoline +
dishsoap(e.g. joy, palmolive, etc.) form a mixture
called napalm. now napalm is a jelly-like
substance used in bombs,
flamethrowers, etc. now you can only guess what this mixture would do
to
someone’s fuel line!!!!
(2) Spreading dirty motor oil/castor oil on someone’s
exhaust pipe- when
the exhaust pipe heats up(and it will!!)the motor oil or castor oil on the
pipe
will cause thick, disgusting smoke to ooze forth from the back of that car.
Who
knows maybe he/she might be pulled over and given a ticket!!
(3) Light Bulb Bomb- see
part one of the file
(4) Simple smoke/stink bomb- you can purchaase sulphur at a
drugstore under
the name flowers of sulphur. now when sulphur burns it will give off a very
firecracker, a tin can,
and the sulphur. fill the can with sulphur(pack very
lightly), put aluninum foil over the top
of the can, poke a small hole into
the foil, insert the wick, and light it and get out of the
room if you value
your lungs. you can find many uses for this( or at least i hope so.
FUN WITH ALARMS
A fact I forgot to mention in my previous alarm articles is that
one can also
use polyurethane foam in a can to silence horns and bells. you can purchase
this at any hardware store as insulation. it is easier to handle and dries
faster.
device that
is hung around the door knob, and when someone touches the knob his
body capacitance sets off
the alarm. these nasty nuisences can be found by
walking down the halls of a hotel and
touching all the door knobs very quickly.
if you happen to chance upon one, attach a 3′ length
of wire or other metal
object to the knob. this will cause the sleeping business pig inside to
think
someone is breaking in and call room service for help. all sorts of fun and
games
will ensue.
Some high-security instalations use keypads just like touch-tone
pads (a
registered trade mark of bell systems) to open locks or disarm alarms. most
use
three or four digits. to figure out the code, wipe the key-pad free from
all fingerprints.
after it had been used just apply finger print dust and all
four digits will be marked. now
all you have to do is figure out the order.
if you want to have some fun with a keypad, try
pressing the * and # at the
same time. many units use this as a panic button. This will bring
the owner
and the cops running and ever-one will have a good time. never try to remove
them from the wall, as they all have tamper switches.
On the subject of holdups, most
places (including super-markets, liquer
stores, etc.) have what is known as a money clip.
these little nasties are
placed at the bottom of a money drawer and when the last few bills
are
with-drawn a switch closes and sets the alarm off. that’s why when you make
your
withdrawl it’s best to help your-self so you can check for these little
nasties. if you find
them, merely insert ones underneath the pile of
twenties, and then pull out the twen-ties,
leaving the one-dollar bill behind
to prevent the circuit from closing.
If you
shoplift and see cameras, look at the brand. if it is surveillance video
systems (SVS) you
need not worry. these cameras look realistic to the point of
pilot lights, coax, and scanning.
however, they are only empty boxes.
How to make TNT By THE SCREAMER
Probably the most important explosive compond in use today is TNT
(trinitrotoluene). This and
other very similar types of high explosives ar
all used by the military, because of their
fantastic power- about 2.25
millions pounds per square inch, and there great stability. TNT
also has the
great advantage of being ableto be melted at 82 degrees F., so that it can be
containers
which resemble dryu cell batteries, and are usually ingnited by an
electrical charge, coupled
with an electical blasting cap, although there are
other methods.
Preparation of
TNT
1. Take two beakers. In the first prepare a solution of 76 percent sulfuric
acid, 23 percent nitric acid and 1 percent water. In the other beaker,
prepare another
solution of 57 percent nitric acid and 43 percent sulfuric
acid (percentages are on a weig ht
ratio rather than volume).
2. Ten grams of the first solutions are poured into an empty
beaker and placed
in an ice bath.
3. Add ten grams of toluene, and stir for
several minutes.
4. remove this beaker from the ice bath and gently heat until it reaches
50
degrees C. The solution is stirred constantly while being heated.
5. Fifty
additional grams of the acid, from the first beaker, are added and
the temperature is held for
the next ten minutes, and an oily liquid will
begin to form on the top of the acid.
cooled to 45
degrees C. when reaching this temperature, the oily liquid will
sink and collect at the bottom
of the beaker. At this point, the remaining
acid solution should be drawn off, by using a
syringe.
7. Fifty more grams of the first acid solution are added to the oily liquid
temperature is
reached, it is maintaind for a full half hour.
8. At the end of this period, he
solution is allowed to cool to 60 degrees
C>, and is held at this temperature for another
full half hour. After this,
the acid is again drawn off, leaving once more only the oily
liquid at the
bottom.
9. Thirty grams of sulfuric acid are added, while the oily
liquid is gently
heated to 80 degrees C. All temperature increases must be accoumplished
slowly and gently.
10.Once the desired temperature is reached, 30 grams of the second
acid
solution are added, and the temperature is raised from 80 dgregrees C> to 104
degrees C., and is held for three hours.
11.After this three hour period, the mixture
is lowered to 100 degrees C. and
held there for a half hour.
12.After this half
hour, the oil is removed form the acid and washed with
boiling water.
13.After
the washing with boiling water, while being stired constantly, the
TNT will begin to
solidify.
14.When the solidification has started, cold water is added to the beaker,
so
that the TNT will form into pellets. Once this is done, you have a good
quality TNT.
NOTE: the temperatures used in the preparation of TNT are EXACT,
and must be used as such.
DO NOT estimate or use aproximations. Buy a good centigrade thermometer.
The author
take NO RESPONSIBILITY for any damage to persons or property for
this formula. It is supplied
for STUDY PURPOSES ONLY.
SOFT DRINK CAN BOMB AN ARTICLE FROM THE BOOK:
THE
POOR MAN’S JAMES BOND BY KURT SAXON
This is an anti-personnel bomb meant for milling
crowds. the bottom of a
soft drink can is half cut out and bent back. a giant firecracker or
other
explosive is put in and surrounded with nuts and bolts or rocks. the fuse is
then
armed with a chemical delay in a plastic drinking straw.
! ! After first making sure
there are no
! ! children nearby, the acid or glycerine
! ! <-CHEMICAL INGITER is put
into the straw and the can is set
—- —- down by a tree or wall where it will not
!
!1! ! be knocked over. the delay should give
! ===== ! you three to five minutes. it will
then
!* ! ! "! have a shattering effect on passersby.
! ! ! !
! ! ! !<-
BIG FIRECRACKER
! ! !% !
! ==== !
! !
! # ! It is hardly likely that anyone
would
! — ! pick up and drink from someone else’s
! ! ! <- NUTS & BOLTS soft
drink can. but if such a crude
! / ! person should try to drink from your
! ! bomb he
would break a nasty habit
——— fast!
El Pirata’s Guild On How To Make A
Chemical Fire Bottle
Written for: Toxic Oyster Guild 05/12/85
Materials
Required:
==================
Sulphuric Acid (Battery Acid) Gasoline
Potassium Chlorate (Drug Store) Sugar
Glass bottle w/stopper (roughly 1 quart size) Small
bottle or jar w/lid
Rag or absorbent paper(newspaper,towels, etc.)
String or rubber
bands
Procedure:
=========
1) Sulphuric Acid Must be Concentrated.
If battery acid or other dilute acid
is used, concentrate it by boiling until dense white
fumes are given off.
Container used should be of eenamelware or oven glass.
CAUTION: Sulphuric acid will burn skin and destroy clothing. If any is
spilled, wash it away
with a large quantity of water. Fumes are also
dangerous and should not be inhaled.
3) Pour gasoline
into the large (1 quart) bottle until it is approximately
2/3 full.
4) Add
concentrated sulphuric acid to gasoline slowly until the bottle is
filled to within 1′ to 2′
from top. Place the stopper on the bottle.
5) Wash the outside of the bottle thoroughly
with clear water.
CAUTION: If this is not done, the fire bottle may be dangerous to
handle
during use.
6) Wrap a clean cloth or several sheets of absorbent paper
around the outside
of the bottle. Tie with string or fasten with rubber bands.
7)
Dissolve 1/2 cup (100 gm) of potassium chlorate and 1/2 cup (100 gm) of
sugar in one cup (250
cc) of boiling water.
Allow the solution to cool, pour into the small bottle and cap
tightly. The
cooled solution should be approx. 2/3 crystals and 1/3 liquid. If there is
more liquid than this, pour off excess before using.
CAUTION: Store this bottle
separately from the other bottle.
How To Use:
1) Shake the small
bottle to mix contents and pour onto the cloth or paper
around the large bottle. Bottle can be
used wet or after solution has dried.
However, when dry, the sugar – Potassium chlorate
mixture is very sensitive to
spark or flame and should be handled accordingly.
2)
Throw or launch the bottle. When the bottle breaks against a hard surface
(target) the fuel
will ignite.
Conclusion:
==========
This weapon proves to be very useful in
torching Assholes and/or their
possessions. Use your imagination.
El Pirata (c) 1985 TOG
ENTERPRISES
Pyro Book ][ by Capt Hack and Grey Wolf
TIME DELAYED
CHEMICAL FUSE
1) Put 1 teaspoon full of of potassium permanganate in a tin can.
2) add glycerine
3) wait 3-4 min.
4) get the hell out.. the stuff will smoke, then burst
into flame..
** potasium permanganate stains like iodine but worse [it's purple]
** the reaction will spatter a bit ->it can be messy…
** it doesn’t matter if the amounts
are uneven [ie. 1 part to 3 parts]
THERMITE
This stuff can
burn *anything*. [except Tungsten].. It’s great for burning
open a fortress fone [a pay phone,
for those who do not know]
Here is the step-by-step on how to make it.
1)
First you need rust. The best way to make alot of it is….
a) get an electric train
transformer and attach a common nail to the PLUS
(+) end of the transformer. take a glass jar
and fill it with water, then
put salt [table salt is fine] into the water. put the other wire
into the
water with the nail [leave the transformer out, of course]. Turn on the
transformer and let the contraption run overnight. seperate out all the red
shit [that's the
rust] with a filter or a spoon. let the stuff dry [like on
a paper towel] that’s it! you have
rust!
2) Get some aluminum filings from the hardware store [or shave your own from a
3) Now, just mix:
4) That’s Thermite!! Now, to ignite it…
5) You now need some Magnesium ribbon. To get it, you can:
a) steal it from
the chemistry lab at school
b) buy it at the hardware store or from a chemical supply
house.
6) Alright, shove the Magesium ribbon into the Thermite at a fuse.
7) Then light it with a blowtorch. [It won't get hot enough to ignite the
Thermite, though]
last step: get the hell back. [it can vaporize CARBON STEEL!]
INTRODUCTION: The trouble with text
books on chemistry and explosives is the
attitude with which they are written. They don’t say,
"Now I know you would
like to blow holy hell out of something just for the fun of it so
here is how
to whip up something in your kitchen to do it". They tell you how Dupont
does
it or how the anchient Chinese did it but not how you can do it with the
resourses
and materials available to you.
Even army manuals on field expedient explosives are
almost useless because
they are just outlines written with the understanding that an
instructor is
going to fill in the blanks. It is a fun game to search out the materials
that can be put together to make something go "boom". You can find what you
need in
grocery stores, hardware stores, and farm supplies. An interesting
point to remember is that
it is much easier to make a big e explosion than a
small one. It is very difficult for a home
experimenter to make a
firecracker, but a bomb capable of blowing the walls out of a building
is
easy.
The king of explosives for the do-it-yourselfer is black powder. It
is
easy to make and when properly confined is capable of devestating power.
It is cheap
and works well. Some drug stores sell sulfur under the name
Flowers of Sulfur. If you use
Nitrate of Soda, it will be in the form of
prills (little round beads). Bake it in an oven at
250 degrees for 10-15
minutes to drive out the moisture.
Then dump a cup or two into a
blender and switch it on. It will do a
beautiful job of reducing it to powder. Buy a bag of
charcoal briquettes at a
grocery store. Put a few briquettes in a rag and pound with hammer.
Dump the
result into the blender, grind, then strain through a tea strainer.
Mix by
volume: 6 parts potassium or Sodium Nitrate, 2 parts powdered
charcoal, 1 part sulfur. This
mixture will burn if ignited and will explode if
ignited while tightly confined. It can be
greatly improved, however, by
processing it as follows:
Moisten with water until it will
stick together when pinched between thumb
and finger. Press it into a disposable aluminum pie
pan. Bake in a preheated
oven at 250 degrees for about 30 minutes–get it totally dry. Grind
into as
fine a powder as possible. A mortar and pestle is best.
If you use a blender at
this point, there is a danger of explosion. It is
not very sensative to friction or impact,
but is very sensative to sparks. If
you followed these directions, you should have a fine
slate-grey powder.
When baking black powder, remember to preheat the oven. Place your pie
the oven.
These warnings are to prevent hot spots that could ignite the powder causing
a fire or
explosion. Something went wrong once when my father-in-law was
doing this and it blew the door
right off the oven. His training in military
demolitions included field expedient explosives.
The point is that things can
go wrong even when you know what you are doing. Protect yourself
at all
times. Use common sense. Wear safety glasses; don’t stand in front of oven,
etc.
HOW TO MAKE BLACKMATCH FUSE:
Take a flat piece of plastic or metal (brass or
aluminum are easy to work
with and won’t rust). Drill a 1/16th inch hole through it. This is
your die
for sizing the fuse. You can make fuses as big as you want, but this is the
right size for the pipe bomb I will be getting to later.
To about 1/2 cup of black
powder add water to make a thin paste. Add 1/2
teaspoon of corn starch. Cut some one foot
lengths of cotton thread. Use
cotton, not silk or thread made from synthetic fibers. Put these
together
until you have a thickness that fills the hole in the die but can be drawn
through very easily.
Tie your bundle of threads together at one end. Separate the
threads and
hold the bundle over the black powder mixture. Lower the threads with a
circular motion so they start curling onto the mixture. Press them under with
the back of a
teaspoon and continue lowering them so they coil into the paste.
Take the end you are holding
and thread it through the die. Pull it through
smoothly in one long motion.
To
dry your fuse, lay it on a piece of aluminum foil and bake it in your 250
degree oven or tie
it to a grill in the oven and let it hang down. The fuse
must be baked to make it stiff enough
for the uses it will be put to later.
Air drying will not do the job. If you used Sodium
Nitrate, it will not even
dry completely at room temperatures.
Cut the dry fuse
with sissors into 2 inch lengths and store in an air tight
container. Handle this fuse
carefuly to avoid breaking it. You can also use
a firecracker fuse if you have any available.
The fuses can usually be pulled
out without breaking. To give yourself some running time, you
will be
extending these fuses (blackmatch or firecracker fuse) with sulfured wick.
Use heavy cotton string about 1/8th inch in diameter. You can
find some at
a garden supply for tieing up your tomatoes. Be sure it’s cotton. You can
test it by lighting one end. It sould continue to burn after the match is
removed and when
blown out will have a smoldering coal on the end. Put some
sulfur in a small container like a
small pie pan and melt it in the oven at
250 degrees.
It will melt into a transparent
yellow liquid. If it starts turning
brown, it is too hot. Coil about a one foot length of
string into it. The
melted sulfur will soak in quickly. When saturated, pull it out and tie it
up
to cool and harden.
It can be cut to desired lengths with sissors. 2 inches is about
right.
These wicks will burn slowly with a blue flame and do not blow out easily in a
moderate wind. They will not burn through a hole in a metal pipe, but are
great for extending
your other fuse. They will not throw off sparks.
Blackmatch generates sparks which can ignite
it along its length causing
unpredictable burning times.
Now you have the
basic ingredients to shake the earth like thunder. In
the next installment or two, I will tell
you how to put it all together to do
just that. You will find that you have baked a very
deadly pie. I have twice
been accused of setting off dynamite in the woods. The explosive
power of
your little grey powder may exceed your expectations, so choose your testing
ground with care.
HOW TO MAKE A PIPE BOMB
Buy a section of metal water
pipe 1/2 by 6 inches long, threaded on both
ends. Buy two metal caps to fit. These are
standard items in hardware
stores. Drill a 1/16th hole in the center of the pipe. This is easy
with a
good drill bit.
Hanson is a good brand to use. Screw a metal cap tightly on one
end.
Fill the pipe to within 1/2 inch of the top with black powder. Do not pack
the
powder. Don’t even tap the bottom of the pipe to make it settle. You want
the powder loose.
For maximum explosive effect, you need dry, fine powder
sitting loose in a very rigid
container.
Wipe off any powder that has gotten onto the top or threads of the pipe.
Gently screw on the second cap. Hand tighten only. Place a small piece of
tape over the hole
and go to your test site. Remove the tape and insert a two
inch piece of black match fuse or a
firecracker fuse into the hole. Place the
bomb behind a large rock or tree.
Using thread
or string, lightly tie a 2 inch piece of sulfured wick to
the end of the fuse. Avoid letting
the wick touch any objects. This might
cause it to go out. Light the wick and head for cover
in a direction that
keeps the rock or tree between you and the bomb at all times. Get behind
cover
at least 50 yards away. You may not expect such a large explosion from such a
small object.
Be extra cautious until You have done this a time or two and it gets real
what you are dealing with. The pipe will be blown to pieces which will fly
through the air
like bullets. An accident could seriously wound or kill you.
This is not a big firecracker. It
is more like a hand grenade. The size of
the bomb can be increased by using a larger pipe and
caps.
To make a big noise without blowing up your pipe, cap one end only. Drill
a
1/16 hole at the top of the threads at the capped end. Put in about 3 to 4
rounded
teaspoonsful of powder. Pack about 2 inches of wadding on top of the
powder. Toilet paper or
kleenex is good for this. Pack it tight. Open up a
safety pin and stick it into the hole. Work
it around to loosen up the powder
so a fuse can be inserted. When this goes off, the recoil
will be tremendous.
You will loose your pipe unless you brace it securely against
something.
The pipe can be reloaded and used again. A fun trick is to mount the pipe
will be blown
high into the air. Campbell’s soup cans are great for this.
HOW TO MAKE
ROCKET FUEL
This is easy to make and fun to play with. Mix equal parts by volume
Potassium or So dium Nitrate and granulated sugar. Pour a big spoonful of
this into a pile.
Stick a piece of blackmatch fuse into it; light; and step
back. This is also a very hot
incendiary. A little imagination will suggest
a lot of experiments for this.
ANOTHER ROCKET FUEL
Mix equal parts by volume of zinc dust and sulfur. Watch out if
you
experiment with this. It goes off in a sudden flash. It is not a powerful
explosive,
but is violent stuff even when not confined because of its fast
burning rate.
—
As I continue from this point some of the ingredients are going to be
harder to get without
going through a chemical supply. I try to avoid this.
I happen to know that B. Prieser
Scientific (local to my area) has been
instructed by the police to send them the names of
anyone buying chemicals in
certain combinations. For example, if a person were to buy Sulfuric
acid,
Nitric acid and Toluene (the makings for TNT) in one order the police would be
notified. I will do the best I can to tell you how to make the things you
need from commonly
available materials, but I don’t want to leave out
something really good because you might
have to scrounge for an ingredient. I
am guessing you would prefer it that way.
HOW TO MAKE AN EXPLOSIVE FROM COMMON MATCHES
The word "safety" in safety
matches is misleading. The chemical on the heads
of safety matches is a powerful explosive. It
is similar to black powder but
has a lower ignition temperature (more sensative to heat) and
unlike black
powder is easily detonated by impact.
This feature moves it up into
the high explosives class. To test this, lay a
paper safety match on a hard flat surface and
hit the head sharply with a
hammer. What do you know! It goes bang! To collect a quantity of
this
explosive, it is best to use wooden safety matches. Buy several cartons.
They’re
cheap. Note that these should be safety matches, not the strike
anywhere kind.
Pinch the head near the bottom with a pair of wire cutters to break it up;
then use the
edges of the cutters to scrape off the loose material. It gets
easy with practice. You can do
this while watching TV and collect enough for
a bomb without dying of boredom.
Once you
have a good batch of it, you can load it into a pipe instead of
black powder. Be careful not
to get any in the threads, and wipe off any that
gets on the end of the pipe. Never try to use
this stuff for rocket fuel. A
science teacher was killed that way.
Just for fun while
I’m on the subject of matches, did you know that you
can strike a safety match on a window
pane? Hold a paper match between your
thumb and first finger. With your second finger, press
the head firmly
against a large window. Very quickly, rub the match down the pane about 2
to light the
match.
Another fun trick is the match rocket. Tightly wrap the top half of a paper
Hold a lighted
match under the head until it ignites. If you got it right,
the match will zip up and hit the
ceiling.
I just remembered the match guns I used to make when I was a kid. These are
off. Take it off
and screw it on backwards. You now have a piece of stiff
wire with a small hollow tube on one
end. Pack the material from a couple of
wooden safety matches into the tube. Force the stem of
a match into the hole.
It sould fit very tightly. Hold a lighted match under the tube until it
gets
hot enough to ignite the powder. It goes off with a bang.
— For later
projects, like a chemical time delay fuse, you will need some
concentrated sulfuric acid. So,
I better tell you how to make it.
HOW TO MAKE CONCENTRATED SULFURIC ACID FROM
BATTERY ACID
Go to an auto supply store and ask for "a small battery acid".
This should
only cost a few dollars (about 4 dollars). What you will get is about a
gallon of dilute sulfuric acid. Put a pint of this into a heat resistant
glass container. The
glass pitchers used for making coffee are perfect.
Do not use a metal container. Use an
extension cord to set up a hotplate out
doors. Boil the acid until white fumes appear. As soon
as you see the white
fumes, turn off the hot plate and let the acid cool. Pour the now
concentrated acid into a glass container. The container must have a glass
stopper or plastic
cap — no metal. It must be air tight. Otherwize, the
acid will quickly absorb moisture from
the air and become diluted. Want to
know how to make a time bomb that doesn’t tick and has no
wires or batteries?
Hold on to your acid and follow me into the next installment.
HOW TO MAKE A CHEMICAL TIME DELAY FUSE:
To get an understanding of how this is going to
work, mix up equal parts
by volume Potassium chlorate and granulated sugar. Pour a spoonful of
the
mixture in a small pile and make a depression in the top with the end of a
spoon.
Using a medicine dropper, place one drop of concentrated sulfuric acid
in the depression and
step back.
It will snap and crackle a few times and then burst into vigorous flames.
To
make the fuse, cut about 2 inches off a plastic drinking straw. Tamp a
small piece of cotton
in one end. On top of this put about an inch of the
clorate/sugar mixture.
Now lightly
tamp in about a quarter inch of either glass wool or asbestos
fibers. Secure this with the
open end up and drop in 3 or 4 drops of sulfuric
acid. After a few minutes the acid will soak
through the fibers and ignite
the mixture.
The time delay can be controled by the amount
of fiber used and by varying
how tightly it is packed. Don’t use cotton for this. The acid
will react
with cotton and become weakened in the process. By punching a hole in the
side of the straw, a piece of blackmatch or other fuse can be inserted and
used to set off the
device of your choice.
Potassium chlorate was very popular with the radical
underground. It can
be used to make a wide variety of explosives and incendiaries, some of
them
extremely dangerous to handle. The radicals lost several people that way.
But,
don’t worry. I am not going to try to protect you from yourself. I have
decided to tell all. I
will have more to say about Potassium chlorate, but
for now, let’s look at a couple of
interesting electric fuses.
HOW TO MAKE AN ELECTRIC FUSE
Take a
flashlight bulb and place it glass tip down on a file. Grind it
down on the file until there
is a hole in the end. Solder one wire to the case
of the bulb and another to the center
conductor at the end. Fill the bulb
with black powder or powdered match head. One or two
flashlight batteries will
heat the filament in the bulb causing the powder to ignite.
ANOTHER ELECTRIC FUSE
Take a medium grade of steel wool and pull a strand out of
it. Attach it
to the ends of two pieces of copper wire by wrapping it around a few turns
and
then pinch on a small piece of solder to bind the strand to the wire. You want
about
1/2 inch of steel strand between the wires. Number 18 or 20 is a good
size wire to use.
Cut a 1/2 by 1 inch piece of cardboard of the type used in match covers.
Place a small pile of
powdered match head in the center and press it flat.
place the wires so the steel strand is on
top of and in contact with the
powder. Sprinkle on more powder to cover the strand.
The
strand should be surounded with powder and not touching anything else
except the wires at its
ends. Place a piece of blackmatch in contact with the
powder. Now put a piece of masking tape
on top of the lot, and fold it under
on the two ends. Press it down so it sticks all around
the powder.
The wires are sticking out on one side and the blackmatch on the other.
A
single flashlight battery will set this off.
ELECTRIC FUSE # 3
An
excellent electric fuse can be bought ready made at hobby and toy
stores. They are sold for
setting off model rockets.
MORE SPONTANIOUS COMBUSTION
Some of the
ingredients for these can only be had from a chemical supply so
they are not my favorites.
Look for powdered aluminum at a good painting
supply.
METHOD # 1
Scatter
out a few crystals of chromic anhydride. Drop on a little ethyl
alcohol. It will burst into
flame immediately.
METHOD # 2
Mix by weight, four parts ammonium chloride, one part
ammonium nitrate, four
parts powered zinc. Pour out a small pile of this and make a depression
on
top. Put one or two drops of water in the depression. Stay well back from
this.
METHOD # 3
Put one gram of powdered potassium permanganate into a paper cup. Drop two
drops of glycerine onto it. After a few seconds it will burst into flames.
METHOD # 4
Spoon out a small pile of powdered aluminum. Place a small amount of sodium
peroxide on top of this. A volume the size of a small pea is about right.
One drop of water
will cause this to ignite in a blinding flare.
METHOD # 5
Mix by volume 3 parts
concentrated sulfuric acid with 2 parts concentrated
nitric acid. Hold a dropper of turpentine
about 2 feet above the mixture.
When drops strike the acid they will burst into flame.
HOW TO MAKE NITROGEN TRIIODIDE
Here are some notes I took four years ago on how
to make this wild explosive
that can be detonated by a fly walking on it.
Five
grams iodine, three grams potassium iodide, 20 ml. concentrated
ammonium hydroxide, filter
paper, funnel.
Stir the potassium iodide and iodine together in a beaker with 50 ml.
of
water. Add the ammonium hydroxide with stirring until no more precipitate
forms.
Break the filter
papers into many small pieces and allow to dry for several
hours. On drying, the paper is
extremely sensitive to touch and will explode
violently with the slightest disturbance. Can be
handled safely when wet. Do
not let any sizeable quantity of the dry material accumulate.
supply.
A. GUNPOWDER:
75% POTASSIUM NITRATE
10% SULFUR
The chemicals should be ground into a fine powder
(seperately!) with a mo
rter & pestle. If gunpowder is ignited in the open, it burns
fiercely, but if
in a closed space it builds up pressure from the released gases and can
explode the container. Gunpowder works like this: the potassium nitrate
oxidizes the charcoal
and sulfur, which then burn fiercely. carbon dioxide
and sulfur dioxide are the gases
released.
B. AMMONAL:
Ammonal is a mixture of ammonium nitrate (a strong
oxidizer) with aluminum
powder (the ‘fuel’ in this case). I am not sure of the % composition
for
ammonal, so you may want to experiment a little using small amounts.
C. CHEMICALLY IGNITED EXPLOSIVES:
1. using various chemicals, I have developed a
mixture that works very well
for imitating volcanic eruptions. i have given it the name ‘mpg
volcanite’
Here it is: potassium chlorate + potassium perchlorate + ammonium nitrate +
am
monium dichromate + potassium nitrate + sugar + sulfur + iron filings + charcoa
l +
zinc dust + some coloring agent.
(scarlet= strontium nitrate, purple= iodine crystals, yellow=
sodium
chloride, crimson= calcium chloride, etc…).
PEROXYACETONE
PEROXYACETONE IS EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE AND HAS BEEN REPORTED TO BE SHOCK
SENSITIVE.
MATERIALS-
4ML ACETONE
4ML 30% HYDROGEN PEROXIDE
4 DROPS CONC. HYDROCHLORIC
ACID
150MM TEST TUBE
Add 4ml acetone and 4ml hydrogen peroxide to the test tube.
then add 4 drops
concentrated hydrochloric acid. In 10-20 minutes a white solid should begin
to
appear. if no change is observed, warm the test tube in a water bath at 40
celsius.
Allow the reaction to continue for two hours. Swirl the slurry and
filter it. Leave out on
filter paper to dry for at least two hours. To
ignite, light a candle tied to a meter stick
and light it (while staying at
least a meter away) .
B. SMOKE SMOKE SMOKE…
The following reaction should produce a fair amount of smoke. Since this
reaction is
not all that dangerous you can use larger amounts if necessary
6 pt. ZINC POWDER
1 pt. SULFUR POWDER
Insert a red hot wire into the pile, step back.
There are
many other experiments I could have included, but i will save them
for the next chemist’s
corner article. upcoming articles will include
glow-in-the-dark reactions, ‘party’ reactions,
things you can do with
household chemicals , etc…
I would like to give credit
to a book by shakashari entitled "Chemical
demonstrations" for a few of the precise
amounts of chemicals in some
experiments.
…ZAPHOD BEEBLEBROX/MPG!
THE CHEMIST’S CORNER #2: HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS, BY ZAPHOD BEEBLEBROX/MPG
This article
deals with instructions on how to do some interesting
experiments with common household
chemicals. Some may or may not work
depending on the concentration of certain chemicals in
different areas and
brands. I would suggest that the person doing these experiments have
some
knowledge of chemistry, especially for the more dangerous experiments.
I am
not responsible for any injury or damage caused by people using this
information. It is
provided for use by people knowledgable in chemistry who
are interested in such experiments
and can safely handle such experiments.
I. A LIST OF HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND THEIR
COMPOSITION
VINEGAR: 3-5% ACETIC ACID BAKING SODA: SODIUM BICARBONATE
DRAIN
CLEANERS: SODIUM HYDROXIDE SANI-FLUSH: 75% SODIUM BISULFATE
AMMONIA WATER: AMMONIUM HYDROXIDE
CITRUS FRUIT: CITRIC ACID
TABLE SALT: SODIUM CHLORIDE SUGAR: SUCROSE
MILK OF
MAGNESIA-MAGNESIUM HYDROXIDE TINCTURE OF IODINE- 4% IODINE
RUBBING ALCOHOL- 70 OR 99% (DEPENDS
ON BRAND) ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL (DO NOT DRINK!)
GENERATING CHLORINE GAS
This
is slightly more dangerous than the other two experiments, so you
shouild know what you’re
doing before you try this…
Ever wonder why ammonia bottles always say ‘do not mix
with chlorine bleach’,
and visa-versa? That’s because if you mix ammonia water with ajax or
something
like it, it will give off chlorine gas. To capture it, get a large bottle and
put ajax in the bottom. then pour some ammonia down into the bottle. since
the c hlorine is
heavier than air, it will stay down in there unless you use
large amounts of either ajax or
ammonia (don’t!). for something fun to do
with chlorine STAY TUNED….
CHLORINE +
TURPENTINE
Take a small cloth or rag and soak it in turpentine. Quickly drop it into
the
bottle of chlorine. It should give off a lot of black smoke and probably start
burning…
GENERATING HYDROGEN GAS
To generate hydrogen, all you need is an acid
and a metal that will react
with that acid. Try vinegar (acetic acid) with zinc, aluminum,
magnesium,
etc. You can collect hydrogen in something if you note that it is lighter
than air…. l ight a small amount and it burns with a small *pop*.
Another way
of creating hydrogen is by the electrolysis of water. this
involve sseperating water (H2O)
into hydrogen and oxygen by an electric
current. To do this, you need a 6-12 volt battery (or
a DC transformer), two
test tubes, a large bowl, two carbon electrodes (take them out of an
unworking
6-12 volt battery), and table salt. Dissolve the salt in a large bowl full of
water. Submerge the two test tubes in the water and put the electrodes inside
them, with the
mouth of the tube aiming down. Connect the battery to some
wire going down to the
electrodes.
This will work for a while, but chlorine will be generated along with the
oxygen which will corrode your copper wires leading to the carbon
electrodes… (the table
salt is broken up into chlorine and sodium ions, the
chlorine comes off as a gas with oxygen
while sodium reacts with the water to
form sodium hydroxide….). therefore, if you can get
your hands on some
sulfuric acid, use it instead. it will not affect the reaction other
than
making the water conduct electricity.
Addendum 4/12/91: DO NOT use a
transformer that outputs AC current!
Not only is AC inherently more dangerous than DC, it also
produces equal
amount of Hydrogen and Oxygen at each electrode.
HYRDOGEN +
CHLORINE
Take the test tube of hydrogen and cover the mouth with your thumb. Keep it
with
turpentine). Say "goodbye test tube", and drop it into the bottle. The
hydrogen and
chlorine should react and possibly explode (depending on purity
and amount of each gas). An
interesting thing about this is they will not
react if it is dark and no heat or other energy
is around. When a light is
turned on, enough energy is present to cause them to react…
PREPARATION OF OXYGEN
Get some hydrogen peroxide (from a drug store) and manganese
dioxide (from
a battery- it’s a black powder). Mix the two in a bottle, and they give off
Try lighting a
wood splint and sticking it (when only glowing) into the
bottle. The oxygen will make it burst
into flame. The oxygen will allow things
to burn better…
IODINE
Tincture
of iodine contains mainly alcohol and a little iodine. To
seperate them, put the tincture of
iodine in a metal lid to a bottle and heat
it over a candle. Have a stand holding another
metal lid directly over the
tincture (about 4-6 inches above it) with ice on top of it. The
alcohol
should evaporate, and the iodine should sublime, but should reform iodine
crystals on the cold metal lid directly above. If this works (I haven’t
tried), you can use
the iodine along with household ammonia to form nitrogen
triiodide.
…ZAPHOD
BEEBLEBROX/MPG!
CHLOROX-DRAINO By The Mortician Sysop of: The Morgue (201)376-4462
I am not too sure on how this works but I am pretty sure that you can make a
really
powerful bomb by taking a can of draino and mixing it with Chlorox. I
think that these two
compounds will spontaniously explode so don’t just pour
them together.
I think
what you do is get the draino in a cardboard can and then put it
in a bucket of chlorox and
what will happen is either the draino or chlorox
will eat through the cardboard and they will
meet and explode.
You might want to experiment with this by rigging it up so you can
cause
the two to combine while you stand a distance a way. I reccomend extreme
caution
with this and wear goggles….
Just like pour some chlorox into a pan and then have a
can of draino with a
string tied to it so you can make it spill into the chlorox… Be
Careful. I
don’t need a law suit… If you find anything out call The Morgue and leave me
you….
I have found that
Pool Chlorine tablets with strong household ammonia react
to produce LOTS of chlorine gas and
heat… also mixing the tablets with
rubbing alcohol produces heat, a different (and highly
flammable) gas, and
possibly some sort of acid (it eats away at just about anything it
touches)
If you have any more info, send me mail: KADOKEV@IITVAX (Bitnet)
kadokev [at] iitvax [dot] iit [dot] edu
I’d especially appreciate chemical formulas, or other
interesting combinations
(also a source for the pure chemicals in the tablets and in household
ammonia)
*End Addendum
HOW TO MAKE DRUGS !
IN NO WAY
AM I RESPONSIBLE FOR FOR ANY INJURIES CAUSED BY THE USE/MISUSE OF
THESE DRUGS. YOU SHOULD
TREAT THESE DRUGS LIKE ALCOHOL. USE THEM ONLY AS AN
ADDED EXPERIENCE IN LIFE, RATHER THAN AN
ESCAPE.
THESE RECIPES ARE ALL FOUND IN A BOOK WHICH HAS RELIABLE SOURCES. ALL SHOULD
BANANDINE (MADE FROM BANANA!)
BANANAS DO CONTAIN
A SMALL QUANTITY OF A MILD SHORT LASTING PSYCHODELIC DRUG.
THERE ARE BETTER WAYS OF GETTING
HIGH BUT THE GREAT ADVANTAGE OF THIS IS THAT
BANANAS ARE LEGAL (FOR NOW)
1]
OBTAIN 15 LBS OF RIPE YELLOW BANANAS
2] PEEL THEM ALL, EAT THE CHOW, KEEP THE PEELS.
3] WITH A SHARP KNIFE, SCRAPE OFF THE INSIDES OF THE PEELINGS, AND SAVE THE
SCRAPED
MATERIAL.
4] PUT ALL SCRAPED MATERIAL IN A LARGE POT AND ADD WATER. BOIL FOR THREE
5] SPREAD THIS PASTE ON COOKIE
SHEETS AND DRY IN OVEN FOR ABOUT 20 MIN. TO A
HALF AN HOUR. THIS WILL RESULT IN A FINE BLACK
POWDER ROLL IT UP AND SMOKE
ABOUT 3-4 OF THOSE DUDES
PEANUTS!
1] OBTAIN A
POUND OF PEANUTS.
2] SHELL THEM, SAVING THE SKINS AND DISCARDING THE SHELLS.
3] PORK OUT
ON THE NUTS WHILE WATCHING David Letterman ONE NIGHT.
4] GRIND UP THE SKINS, ROLL THEM, SMOKE
THEM.
Any fool can grow their own marijuana…. just plant the seeds in a warm,
sunny and not too public place, water and fertilize as you would any other
plant, and in a
short while you’ll have your own homegrown weed. I’ve heard
that you can kill mites by soaking
some tobacco (buy a pack of plain pipe
tobacco) in water, and spraying it on the leaves (you
don’t want to use toxic
chemicals on something you’re going to smoke later)
If
you’re not used to the stuff, cut it with 50% tobacco, and smoke it in
a filtered pipe or use
the mixture to refill a cigarette- the tar content is
MUCH higher than that of a regular
cigarrette.
Remember, cultivation is a FEDERAL crime, so if you can do it at home,
lamps are
reputed to be the best- steal a couple streetlights) and a water
spigot.
TRIPWIRES by The Mortician
Well first of all I reccommend that you read the file on my
board about
landmines… If you can’t then here is the concept.
You can use an
m-80,h-100, blockbuster or any other type of explosive that
will light with a fuse. Now the
way this works is if you have a 9 volt
battery, get either a solar igniter (preferably) or
some steel wool you can
create a remote ignition system. What you do it set up a schematic
like this.
——————>+ batery
steel || ->- batery
wool ||
/
:==:— <–fuse \
|| /
—- spst switch–\
So when the switch is
on the currnet will flow through the steel wool or
igniter and heat up causing the fuse to
light.
Note: For use with steel wool try it first and get a really thin piece of
wire
and pump the current through it to make sure it will heat up to light the
explosive.
it and cover
the wires. Now take a fishing line (about 20 lb. test) and tie
one end to a secure object.
Have your switch secured to something and make a
loop on the other end on the line. Put the
loop around the switch such that
when pulled it will pull the switch and set off the
explosive.
To ignite the explosive… The thing to do is to experiment with this and
On my board…
(201)376-4462
Addendum 4/12/91:
I would suggest you try the clothespin trick, it
works much better.
BOOBY TRAP TRIP WIRES…… BY Vlad Tepes (of Chgo C64
fame)
Here is a method for constructing boobytraps which I personally invented,
and which I have found to work better than any other type of release booby
trap.
There are many possible variations on this design, but the basic premise
remains the same.
What you’ll need is 3-4 nails each 2 inches long and soft
enough to bend easily (galvanized
iron works well), some wire or fishing line,
some string or rope, and a really sick mind.
Hammer two of the nails into the trunk of a tree (about one inch apart) so
they form
a horizontal line. They should be angled slightly upward, about 30
degrees.
Bend
each nail Downward about one inch out from the trunk. Take your
nefarious device (say a small
rock suspended in a tree) and rig a rope or
string so it comes DOWN towards the two nails. Tie
a loop in the string so the
loop *just* reaches between the two nails, and pass a third nail
between the
two nails with the loop around this nail between the two others (see diagrams)
bent nails
/ || ^ slight upward tension
# /\ ||
#/ @ || @ ( @ are the
two nails, head on)
# ——!—-()——
# trip wire
\ /
Trunk third
nail
Now tie one end of the fishing line to the head of the third nail, and the
other end around another tree or to a nail (in another tree, a root or a
stump etc).
sick creation
will be released to do it’s damage (try tying it to a firing
pin). There are several possible
variations. More than one trip wire can be
attached to the same nail, or this device can be
used to arm a second trip
wire. Large wire staples or hook and eye loops can be used to
replace the two
bent nails.
A more interesting variation uses a straight piece of
metal rod with a
hole at each end, or with a short wire loop welded to each end. One end is
||
*/\/\/\/\/\-===()=======————————————–*
SPRING BOLT Trip wire
With this design the loop will be released if the tripwire is pulled or if
it is
broken. The spring should be under moderate tension and well oiled.
RECIPE FOR A
STANDARD PLASTIC EXPLOSIVE
INGREDIENTS:
GASOLINE – 1 PART OIL – 1 HALF
PART STYROFOAM – 1 PART
1) MELT STYROFOAM. -REMEMBER NEVER AT ANY TIME LET THE MIXTURE
GET TOO HOT.
Addendum 4/12/91
Acetone will dissolve the styrofoam, and requires
no heat- this is an
ingredient in nail polish remover, or it is available at any good
automotive
supply store in the paint section.
A nice trick is to walk into a
store, grab a bottle of nail polish remover
(check the ingredients, it should have acetone in
it) then "accidentally"
pour it into a large stack of (uncoated) styrofoam coolers
and wander off.
*End Addendum
2) LET COOL TO A THICK VISCOSITY.
3)
MIX 3 INGREDIENTS TOGETHER IN FOLLOWING ORDER: FIRST ADD STYROFOAM, THEN
OIL, THEN GAS.
4) MIX IN A DEEP POT – KEEP MIXTURE AWAY FROM ANY TYPE OF FIRE! DO THIS STEP
WITH
EXTREME CAUTION.
5) LET THE MIXTURE COOL TO A LITTLE BIT WARMER THAN ROOM TEMPERATURE –
AROUND
88 DEGREES FARENHEIT.
6) MOLD THE MIXTURE HOW YOU WANT. (DIFFERENT SHAPES
WILL MAKE IT MORE OR LESS
LETHAL).
OPTIONAL: YOU CAN ADD NUTS, BOLTS, AND SCREWS
WHILE MIXING, ALONG WITH
GUNPOWDER, 2 M-80′S, OR ANY OTHER TYPE OF EXPLOSIVE TO MAKE IT THE
EQUIVILANT
OF A MOLOTOV COCKTAIL.
NOTE: THE FRAGMENTS (NUTS, BOLT, ETC.) ARE
DEADLY. THEY WILL PENETRATE A
BRICK WALL WHEN THE MIXTURE IS DETONATED.
DETONATION
1) THE MIXTURE CAN BE THROWN, BUT SOMETIMES DETONATION DOES NOT OCCUR.
2) THE MIXTURE CAN BE WIRED FOR AN ELECTRIC CHARGE TO BE SENT THROUGH IT, IT
WILL
DETONATE WITHOUT DOUBT. A REGULAR FUSE CAN BE SENT THROUGH IT ALSO. IF
THIS METHOD IS USED,
SOME SORT OF TIMER IS RECOMMENDED.
Addendum 4/12/91: This just burns and smokes, WILL
NEVER explode.. don’t bother!
Nitroglycerin [heretofore Nitro] is a very
powerful high- explosive. I am
not sure who invented it but he probably didn’t– the first
person to make it
probably blew himself up and his friend got the info off his notes.
Well anyway, the next best thing to Nitro is TNT which is ten times harder to
make but
also ten times safer to make. If you can’t use common sense then
dont even TRY to make this
stuff–a few drops can blow off your hand in the
right circumstances.
To make
Nitro:
Mix 100 parts fuming nitric acid (for best results it should have a
specific
gravity of 50 degrees Baume’) with 200 parts sulphuric acid.
This is going to be HOT at
first–it won’t splatter if you pour the nitric
INTO the sulphuric but don’t try it the other
way around. The acid solutions
together can disolve flesh in a matter of seconds so take the
proper measures
for God’s sake!!!
When cool, add 38 parts glycerine as slowly as
possible. Let it trickle down
the sides of the container into the acids or it won’t mix
thourily and the
reaction could go to fast–which causes enough heat to ignite the stuff.
Stir with a **GLASS** rod for 15 seconds or so then CARFULLY pour it into 20
times
it’s *VOLUME* of water. It will visibly precipitate immediatly. there
will be twice as much
Nitro as you used glycerin and it is easy to separate.
Mix it with baking soda as soon as you
have separated it– this helps it not
to go off spontainiously.
Addendum 4/12/91:
Do NOT let the temperature get above 32 degrees centigrade!!!
NOTES: Parts are by
weight and he Baume’ scale of spicific gravity can be
found in most chem. books. You can get
fuming nitric and sulfuric acids
wherever good chemicals or fertilizers are sold.
It is positivly *STUPID* to make more than 200 grams of Nitro at a time.
When mixing the stuff
wear goggles, gloves, etc. When I first made the stuff
I had the honor of having it go off by
itself (I added too much glycerine at a
time.)
I was across the room at the time, but I
felt the impact–so did the table
it was on as well as the window it was next to–they were
both smashed by only
25 grams in an open bowl. Oh, yes, glycerine you can get at any pharmacy
and
you need an adult signature for the acids. Any bump can make Nitro go off if
you
don’t add the bicarbonate of (baking) soda–but even with that, if it gets
old I wouldn’t play
catch with it.
Addendum 4/12/91: Freezing it will make it less sensitive to shock.
Once you have made the Nitro and saturated it with Bicarb. you can make a
really
powerful explosive that won’t go off by itself by simply mixing it with
as much cotton as you
can and then saturating that with molten (but as cool as
possible, of course) parifine–just
enough to make it sealed and hard.
Typically, use the same amounts (by weight) of each Nitro,
cotton and
paraffin. This, when wrapped in newspaper, was once known as "Norbin &
Improvised Explosives
This explosive is almost
the same as the nitro-gelatin plastique explosive
exept that it is supple and pliable to -10
to -20 deg. C
Antifreeze is easier to obtain than glycerine and is usually cheaper. It
needs to be freed of water before the manufacture and this can be done by
treating it with
calcium chlor- ide until a specific gravity of 1.12 @ o deg.
C. or 1.11 @ 20 deg. C. is
obtained.
This can be done by adding calcium chloride to the antifreeze and checking
with a hydrometer and continue to add calcium chloride until the proper
reading is obtained.
The antifreeze is then filtered to remove the calcium
chloride from the liquid. This explosive
is superior to nitro-gelatin in that
it is easier to collidon the IMR smokeless powder into
the explosive and that
the 50/50 ether ethyl alcohol can be done away with. It is superior in
that
the formation of the collidon is done very rapidly by the nitroethelene
glycol.
Like the
nitro-gelatine it is highly flammable and if caught on fire the
chances are good that the
flame will progress to detonation. In this
explosive as in nitro-gelatine the addition of 1%
sodium carbonate is a good
idea to reduce the chance of recidual acid being present in the
final
explosive. The following is a slightly different formula than nitro-gelatine:
In this process
the 50/50 step is omitted. Mix the potassium nitrate with
the nitro-glycol. Remember that this
nitro-glycol is just as sensitive to
shock as is nitroglycerin.
The next step is to mix
in the baking flour and sodium carbonate. Mix
these by kneading with gloved hands until the
mixture is uniform. This
kneading should be done gently and slowly. The mixture should be
uniform when
the IMR smokeless powder is added. Again this is kneaded to uniformity. Use
this explosive as soon as possible.
If it must be stored, store in a cool, dry place (0-10
deg. C.). This
explosive should detonate at 7600-7800 m/sec.. These two explosives are very
These explosives are
dangerous and should not be made unless the
manufacturer has had experience with this type
compound. The foolish and
ignorant may as well forget these explosives as they won’t live to
get to use
them.
Don’t get me wrong, these explosives have been manufactured for years
with
an amazing record of safety. Millions of tons of nitroglycerine have been
made and
used to manufacture dynamite and explosives of this nature with very
few mis haps.
Nitroglycerin and nitroglycol will kill and their main victims are the
stupid and foolhardy.
Before manufacturing these explosives take a drop of
nitroglycerin and soak into a small piece
of filter paper and place it on an
anvil.
Hit this drop with a hammer and don’t put any
more on the anvil. See what I
mean! This explosive compound is not to be taken lightly. If
there are any
doubts DON’T.
Improvised Explosives Plastique Explosive from
Aspirin by: The Lich
This explosive is a phenol dirivative. It is toxic and explosive
compounds
made from picric acid are poisonous if inhaled, ingested, or handled and
absor- bed through the skin. The toxicity of this explosive restrict’s its
use due to the fact
that over exposure in most cases causes liver and kidney
failure and sometimes death if
immediate treatment is not obtained.
This explosive is a cousin to T.N.T. but is more
powerful than it’s cousin.
It is the first explosive used militarily and was adopted in 1888
as an
artillery shell filler. Originally this explosive was derived from coal tar
but
thanks to modern chemistry you can make this explosive easily in
approximately three hours
from acetylsalicylic acid (aspirin purified).
This procedure involves dissolving the
acetylsalicylic acid in warm sulfuric
acid and adding sodium or potassium nitrate which
nitrates the purified
aspirin and the whole mixture drowned in water and filtered to obtain
the
final product. This explosive is called trinitrophenol. Care should be
taken to
ensure that this explosive is stored in glass containers. Picric
acid will form dangerous
salts when allowed to contact all metals exept tin
and aluminum. These salts are primary
explosive and are super sensitive.
They also will cause the detonation of the picric acid.
To make picric acid obtain some aspirin. The cheaper brands work best but
buffered
brands should be avoided. Powder these tablets to a fine
consistancy. To extract the
acetylsalicylic acid from this powder place this
powder in methyl alcohol and stir vigorously.
Not all of the powder will
dissolve. Filter this powder out of the alcohol. Again wash this
powder that
was filtered out of the alcohol with more alcohol but with a lesser amount
than the first extrac- tion. Again filter the remaining powder out of the
alcohol. Combine the
now clear alcohol and allow it to evaporate in a pyrex
dish. When the alcohol has evaporated
there will be a surprising amount of
crystals in the bottom of the pyrex dish.
Take fourty grams of these purified acetylsalicylic acid crystals and
dissolve them in 150 ml.
of sulfuric acid (98%, specify gravity 1.8) and heat
to diss- olve all the crystals. This
heating can be done in a common electric
frying pan with the thermostat set on 150 deg. F. and
filled with a good
cooking oil.
When all the crystals have dissolved in the
sulfuric acid take the beaker,
that you’ve done all this dissolving in (600 ml.), out of the
oil bath. This
next step will need to be done with a very good ventilation system (it is a
procedure on this
disk with good ventilation or outside). Slowly start adding
58 g. of sodium nitrate or 77 g.
of potassium nitrate to te acid mixture in
the beaker very slowly in small portions with
vigorous stirring. A red gas
(nitrogen tri- oxide) will be formed and this should be
avoided.
The mixture is likely to foam up and the addition should be
stopped until
the foaming goes down to prevent the overflow of the acid mixture in the
beaker. When the sodium or potassium nitrate has been added the mixture is
allowed to cool
somewhat (30- 40 deg. C.). The solution should then be dumped
slowly into twice it’s volume of
crushed ice and water. The brilliant yellow
crystals will form in the water. These should be
filtered out and placed in
200 ml. of boiling distilled water. This water is allowed to cool
and then
the crystals are then filtered out of the water. These crystals are a very,
very pure trinitrophenol. These crystals are then placed in a pyrex dish and
places in an oil
bath and heated to 80 deg. C. and held there for 2 hours.
This temperature is best maintained
and checked with a thermometer.
The crystals are then powdered in small quantities to a
face powder
consistency. These powdered crystals are then mixed with 10% by weight wax
and 5% vaseline which are heated to melting temperature and poured into the
crystals. The
mixing is best done by kneading together with gloved hands.
This explosive should have a
useful plsticity range of 0-40 deg. C.. The
detonation velocity should be around 7000 m/sec..
It is toxic to handle but
simply made from common ingredients and is suitable for most
demolition work
requiring a moderately high detonation velocity. It is very suitable for
shaped charges and some steel cutting charges. It is not as good an explosive
as C-4 or other
R.D.X. based explosives but it is much easier to make. Again
this explosive is very toxic and
should be treated with great care.
AVOID HANDLING BARE-HANDED, BREATHING DUST AND
FUMES, AVOID ANY CHANCE OF
INGESTION. AFTER UTENSILS ARE USED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF THIS
EXPLOSIVE
RETIRE THEM FROM THE KITCHEN AS THE CHANCE OF POISONING IS NOT WORTH THE RISK.
THIS EXPLOSIVE, IF MANUFACTURED AS ABOVE, AHOULD BE SAFE IN STORAGE BUT WITH
ANY HOMEMADE
EXPLOSIVE STORAGE OS NOT RECOMENDED AND EXPLOSIVES SHOULD BE MADE
UP AS NEEDED.
Improvised Explosives Plastique Explosive from Bleach by: The Lich
This
explosive is a potassium chlorate explosive. This explosive and explo-
sives of similar
composition were used in World War II as the main explosive
filler in gernades, land mines,
and mortar used by French, German, and other
forces involoved in that conflict. These
explosives are relatively safe to
manufacture.
One should strive to make sure
these explosives are free of sulfur,
sulfides, and picric acid. The presence of these
compounds result in mixtures
that are or can become highly sensitive and possibly decompose
ex- plosively
while in storage. The manufacture of this explosive from bleach is given as
not economical
due to the amount of energy used to boil the solution and
cause the ‘dissociation’ reaction to
take place. This procedure does work and
yields a relatively pure and a sulfur/sulfide free
product. These explosives
are very cap sensitive and require only a #3 cap for instigating
detonation.
To manufacture potassium chlorate from bleach (5.25% sodium hypochlorite
pyrex or
enameled steel container (to weigh chemicals), and some potassium
chloride (sold as salt
substitute). Take one gallon of bleach, place it in
the container and begin heating it. While
this solution heats, weigh out 63
g. potassium chloride and add this to the bleach being
heated. Bring this
solution to a boil and boiled until when checked by a hydrometer the
reading
is 1.3 (if a battery hydrometer is used it should read full charge).
When
the reading is 1.3 take the solution and let it cool in the refrigerator
until it’s between
room temperature and 0 deg. C.. Filter out the crystals
that have formed and save them. Boil
the solution again until it reads 1.3 on
the hydrometer and again cool the solution. Filter
out the crystals that have
formed and save them. Boil this solution again and cool as
before.
Filter and save the crystals. Take these crystals that have been saved and
distilled
water. Heat this solution until it boils and allow it to cool.
Filter the solution and save
the crystals that form upon cooling. The process
if purifi- cation is called fractional
crystalization. These crystals should
be relatively pure potassium chlorate.
Powder these to the consistency of face powder (400 mesh) and heat gently to
drive off all
moisture. Melt five parts vasoline and five parts wax.
Dissolve this in white gasoline (camp
stove gasoline) and pour this liquid on
90 parts potassium chlorate (the crystals from the
above operation) in a
plastic bowl. Knead this liquid into the potassium chlorate until
immediately
mixed. Allow all the gasoline to evaporate. Place this explosive in a cool,
dry place. Avoid friction, sulfur, sulfide, and phosphorous compounds.
This
explosive is best molded to the desired shape and density (1.3g./cc.)
and dipped in wax to
water proof. These block type charges guarantee the
highest detonation velocity. This
explosive is really not suited to use in
shaped charge applications due to its relatively low
detonation velocity. It
is comparable to 40% ammonia dynamite and can be considered the same
for the
sake of charge computation.
If the potassium chlorate is bought and not
made it is put into the
manufacture pro- cess in the powdering stages preceding the addition
of the
wax/vaseline mix- ture. This explosive is bristant and powerful. The
addition of
2-3% aluminum powder increases its blast effect. Detonation
velocity is 3300 m/sec..
Plastique Explosives From Swimming Pool Clorinating Compound By the Lich
This
explosive is a chlorate explosive from bleach. This method of
production of potassium or
sodium chlorate is easier and yields a more pure
product than does the plastique explosive
from bleach process.
In this reaction the H.T.H. (calcium hypochlorite CaC10) is mixed
with water
and heated with either sodium chloride (table salt, rock salt) or potassium
chloride (salt substitute). The latter of these salts is the salt of choice
due to the easy
crystalization of the potassium chlorate.
This mixture will need to be boiled to ensure
complete reaction of the
ingredients. Obtain some H.T.H. swimming pool chlorination compound
or
equivilant (usually 65% calcium hypochlorite). As with the bleach process
mentioned
earlier the reaction described below is also a dissociation
reaction. In a large pyrex glass
or enamled steel container place 1200g.
H.T.H. and 220g. potassium chloride or 159g. sodium
chloride. Add enough
boiling water to dissolve the powder and boil this solution. A chalky
chalky substance is
no longer formed the solution is filtered while boiling
hot. If potassium chloride was used
potassium chlorate will be formed.
This potassium chlorate will drop out or crystalize
as the clear liquid left
after filtering cools. These crystals are filtered out when the
solution
reaches room temperature. If the sodium chloride salt was used this clear
filtrate (clear liquid after filter- ation) will need to have all water
evaporated. This will
leave crystals which should be saved.
These crystals should be heated in a slightly
warm oven in a pyrex dish to
drive off all traces of water (40-75 deg. C.). These crystals are
ground to a
very fine powder (400 mesh).
If the sodium chloride salt is used in
the initial step the crystalization is
much more time consuming. The potassium chloride is the
salt to use as the
resulting product will crystalize out of the solution as it cools. The
vaseline in a
plastic bowl. ALL CHLORATE BASED EXPLOSIVES ARE SENSITIVE TO
FRICTION AND SHOCK AND THESE
SHOULD BE AVOIDED. If sodium chloride is used in
this explosive it will have a tendancy to
cake and has a slightly lower
detonation velocity.
This explosive is
composed of the following:
potassium/sodium chlorate 90%
vaseline 10%
carefully. this
explosive (especially if the Sodium Chlorate variation is
used) should not be exposed to water
or moisture.
The detonation velocity can be raised to a slight extent by the addition
of
2-3% aluminum sunstituted for 2-3% of the vaseline. This addition of this
aluminum
will give the explosive a bright flash if set off at night which will
ruin night vision for a
short while. The detonation velocity of this
explosive is approximately 3200 m/sec. for the
potassium salt and 2900 m/sec.
for the sodium salt based explosive.
Addendum
4/12/91:
It was claimed above that this explosive degrades over time. I would assume
that a
different type of fuel would be better than the vaseline.
Revenge: Don’t get mad – Get
even By George Hayduke
subtitled: Fun Things To Do Written by The Ghost
SPEED
DEMON 415/522-3074 24 HOURS
This is from a book by George Hayduke. It describes a
variety of ways to
get back at people who cause you distress. The book has contains a lot
of
tips on causing expensive damage to "marks". Well, I picked the good ones.
Ones that don’t cause a lot of expense, in currency that is. Well, I hope you
enjoy. Get back
at the losers using the system. Sort of like piracy and
phreaking.
In a car with
automatic transmission, switch the #1 and #8 wires on the
distributer cap. This will allegedly
allow the car to operate in Neutral and
Park, but the engine mysteriously dies in Drive.
Castor Oil squirted into the tailpipe of a car, will cause a large amount of
smoke. Just the
thing to help nervous drivers.
If you can get a bank account number for a person, truly
wonderful things
can happen. Depositing one penny every day can get the employees very
pissed.
It happens that given a few hundred wanted posters, one will look like you.
OR
anybody else you can imagine. Close anyway. Think of all the bounty
hunters just waiting to
claim their reward.
Place an ad in a paper for Male Secretarys only. $11 an hour, must
be
physically attractive, gentle, and other related social traits. This is for
anybody
who has an office. Give the time to show up one half hour before the
normal opening hour. For
example, if the office opens at 9:00, put the time
to be 8:30. All these faggots will show up
and start bitching at each other
and your loser.
Run an ad in the local paper with the
following message.
"I need all used christmas trees. Please leave them on my lawn, and
I’ll pay
$5 for each one." then leave the losers address. The paper will take your $
If you know the guy is going to throw a party, arrange
for him to find out
that somebody was going to crash his party, dressed up like cops. Then
call
the cops telling them of a real rowdy party going on.
If your college uses
computers to handle admissions, try this. Fill out
course withdrawl forms in the losers name.
Then enter them, they probably
won’t check. The guy will go the entire block unknowing, then
when grades are
posted. "Where are mine?" "Why didn’t I get grades?"
Call your colleges administration, tell them you are the undertaker of your
losers
hometown. He just died, please take him off your records, records will
follow. Then call the
parents. He just died in a fraternity accident. This
will work better if the guy decides to
skip a week or so of classes.
Instead of credit card fraud, just call up the company and tell
them that
you just lost your cards. You name? Why it’s (insert loser)
If you want,
advertise the losers phone number as a Dial A Joke. For
bigots, Dial A Black, etc.
If you dislike a fast food place with a drive thru, try this. Order
everything you
can think of. Then just don’t go to the window. Do it during
dinner hours. Or, order a normal
sized meal, but with extra helpings of
mustard. Then the next car will try the food, then
freak out at the joint.
Garage door openers often have dip switches that can be changed to
other
combinations. The cheaper the model, the better. Sears sells just the unit.
Say
you broke yours or something. Then change the settings.
Wax crayons tossed into a wash
do wonders to whites or anything else.
There is a whole section of phun things to do
with a phone. Call in a bomb
threat to a school or something, then leave the handset offhook.
Of course,
do this only at the losers house. Someone will visit.
Ads placed in papers
saying that (insert loser) will sell YOU! the plans
to a device enabling inexpensive calls.
Mention that you keep no records. If
you are getting back at somebody with a multi-line
system, this is good.
If you can get a private minute with your marks phone, and the handset
is
modular, cover the handset plug with clear nail polish. The phone rings, then
its
unlimited "Hello?" "Hello?"
Remove the pins from all but one of the hinges
of a front door of a
business. The door will work fine, for a while, then fall off. People
start
screaming.
Add luminescent paint into the cans of someone who is painting their
fence.
Then, at night, it glows.
Get some copper paint and paint a small line across the
insulator of a
spark plug in a car. They’ll never find it.
If your loser gets a parking
ticket, get it before he sees it. Then get a
stamp flicking the cops off. Send it in with no
money.
If you dislike a pet hater, here’s one. Advertise that you(the loser)
would like
to buy all unwanted strays. $10 for each one. Then call the SPCA,
telling them that the loser
wants the animals to conduct black masses and
pagan rites.
Laxatives slipped into
dogfood does wonders.
Or better yet, toss some normal meat into the dog-owners yard.
Then call
him up(in a disguised voice) and tell him you saw a suspicious person hanging
around the yard….
Mail a letter to the Chief Executive detailing the sexual acts you
would
like to commit, the Secret Service investigates this with no humor.
PA systems in
department stores are great. Just walk up to a deserted unit,
look around, then deliver the
most disgusting statement you can think of.
Call about thirty people, telling them they just
won a sweepstakes. Answer
the questions, no obligation, it’s just to show how generous people
are. Then
give the losers phone number to call for more info.
Remember two things, hot
metal and hot glass do not look different from
cool. (as long as it’s not too hot)
Western Telegram has a check on everything going through. Certain key
words trip alarms. Guns,
Drugs, Sex, Terrorist, etc all ring bells. Have fun
There are many ways to
thrash someones car. But they basicly fall under 2
topics. These are, 1 to just fuck it up and
2, to distroy it. As long as
your at it don’t for get to steal the stero & speakers.
Sweet-Gas
This involves taking the gas cap off of you victims car. If it is a
locking
cap break it off. Or you might pry it off. Once you have the gas cap off
pour 4
or 5 pounds of white sugar in there gas tank. Now when the start there
car up and drive away
they will go about 2 miles or so then the car will crap
out and they will have to pay some $’s
to get it fixed.
Addendum 4/12/91: This does NOT work- try confectioner’s sugar, it
might.
Sweet-Oil
In this one you open there hood and pour some honey in their oil
spout. if
you have time you might remover the oil plug first and drain some of the oil
out. I have tried this one but wasn’t around to see the effects but I am sure
that I did some
damage.
Slow Air
Ok, sneak up the victums car and poke a small hole somewhere in
2 of his/her
tires. They only have 1 spare. Now if the hole is small but there then there
blows out on
the road wih a rasor blade. Cut a long and fairly deep (don’t
cut a hole) and peel a little
bit of the rubber back and cut that off. Now
very soon there tires will go flat or a possible
blow out at a high speed if
your lucky.
Vanishing Paint
Spread a little gas
or paint thiner on the victims car and this will make his
paint run and fade. Vodka will eat
the paint off and so will a little 190.
Eggs work great on paint if they sit there long
enough.
Loose Wheel
Loosen the lugs on you victums tires so that they will
soon fall off. This
can really fuck some one up if they are cruising when the tire falls
off.
No name for this one. but where you pour oil into the engine, pour some
sand, this will scar the head and pushrodes and possible scrach the fuck out
of the
cylinder.
Dual Neutral
This name sucks but pull the 10 bolt or what ever they
have there off. (On
the real wheels, in the middle of the axle) Now throw some screws, blots,
nuts
and assorted things in there and replace the cover. At this point you could
chip
some of the teeth off the gears.
Un-Midaser
Crawl under there car with a rachet
and losen all the nuts on their exhaust
so that it hangs low and will fall off soon. This
method also works on
transmissions but is a little harder to get all bolts off, but the harder
you
work the more you fuck them over.
A quickie bomb, stolen from
MacGyver
————————————
Typed, Uploaded, and Translated by
(_> Shadow Hawk 1 <_)
\__________________________________/
Ok. Heres a
really simple bomb that you can make from things you’ve probably
got lying around the house…
What you ne eed:
A bag of fertilizer
Some Cotton
Some Starter Fluid
(etherous kind)
Some Newspaper
Ok… You fold the newspaper until its in sort of
a pocket shape, then fill
it up with fertilizer (not too much).. Next, you put cotton on top
of the
fertilizer. Then, pour some starter fluid on it (the fertilizer), wrap up
the
newspaper (you can use tape). Now this isnt the kind of bomb you leave
lying around for a
couple days, as it drys out. When you want to use it, just
light the edge of the newspaper and
throw it. Pretty simple, eh?
Addendum 4/12/91: This is stupid. Starting fluid is
DANGEROUS stuff.
Try it if you like, but I recommend a better detonation technique than
burning newspaper… Maybe a spark plug?
P.S. I never noticed before, but all
the formulas, etc. that the dude on
macgyver uses are real, (i checked quite a few of em). (c)
1986 The J-Men
How To Make Mercury Fulminate by The Lockpic & The Blitz
When employing the use of any high explosive,an individual must also use some
kind
of detonating device.Blasting caps are probably the most popular
today,since they are very
functional and relativly stable.The prime ingrediant
in most blasting caps and detonating
devices in general is mercury
fulminate.There are several methods for preparing mercury
fulminate.
1. Take 5 grams of pure mercury and mix is with 35 ml. of nitric acid.
2.The mixture is slowly and gentle heated.As soon as the solution bubbles and
turns
green, one knows that the silver mercury is dissolved.
3. After it is dissolved, the
solution should be poured,slowly,into a small
flask of ethyl alcohol.This will result in red
fumes.
4. After a half hour or so,the red fumes will turn white, indicating that the
5. after a few minutes, add distilled water to
the solution.
6. The entire solution is now filtered, in order to obtain the small
white
crystals.These crystals are pure mercury fulminate,but should be washed many
times, and tested with litmus paper for any remaining undersiable acid.
Method No. 2
1. Mix one part mercuric oxide with ten parts ammonia solution.When ratios
are
described,they are always done according to weight rather than volume.
2. After waiting
eight to ten days,one will see that the mercuric oxide has
reacted with the ammonia solution
to produce the white fulminate crystals.
3. These crystals must be handled in the same
way as the first method
described, in that they must be washed many times and given several
litmus
paper tests.
Many other fulminates can be made, however most are
extremely unstable and
sensitive to shock.All fulminates including mercury fulminate,are
sensitive to
shock and friction,and in no circumstances should they be handled in a rough
Call these Commodore X-changes
The headquarters
(817)430-8239
T.A.R.G.E.T. (817)295-9228
Pirates Exchange (214)446-2219
(C) Hang
Ten ‘86
How to Make Ammonium Nitrate from THE POOR MAN’S JAMES BOND by: Kurt
Saxon
TYPED BY THE REFLEX
Disclaimer:
I, THE REFLEX, will accept full
responsibility for any damage caused by
information obtained from this text-file. As a matter
of fact, I’ll let you
sue me and I’ll pay. All you have to do is tell your lawyer, "It’s
all THE
REFLEX’s fault." I’ll see you when you get out of the institution.
Some Militants who don’t have much dynamite use ammonium nitrate. This can
be bought by anyone
at $3.75 for and 80 pound bag. It is fertilizer.
Ammonium nitrate explodes at rates up to
14,000 feet per second. It is
roughly compared to dynamite having 60% nitro.
The
fertilizer grade Militants use is mixed with motor oil at the ratio of
one pint of oil to
8-1/2 pounds of ammonium nitrate. This has to be detonated
with a stick of gelatin dynamite [I
didn't say all was easy. Try to find
another file about that crap.].
Purified
ammonium nitrate can be detonated with a number six dynamite cap.
The pure stuff can be bought
at chemical supply houses or the fertilizer grade
can be purified with distilled wood
alcohol.
Put several pounds of fertilizer grade ammonium nitrate in a pan. Pour in
lot of it has
dissolved. Next, let it set for a few minutes to allow the
impurities to settle to the bottom
along with the undissolved ammonium
nitrate.
Another pan is set on some pieces of
dry ice for the next step. Dry ice
can be found in the business section of the phone book
under "Dry Ice." Locker
companies will sell it to anyone, cheaply and in small
amounts.
The dissolved ammonium nitrate is poured into the cold pan. This is done
carefully so as to leave the impurities and undissolved ammonium nitrate behind.
The
dry ice causes the purified ammonium nitrate to precipitate out of the
solution in crystals.
When no more crystals are formed they are removed from
the alcohol.
The alcohol
is then poured back into the other pan and stirred to dissolve
any ammonium nitrate left
undissolved. After setting a few minutes the
solution is again poured off the dregs and the
dregs are thrown away. When
the last batch of crystals is removed, the alcohol can be stored
and reused.
The dry ice is simply frozen carbon dioxide and its fumes are harmless
bare hands
[unless you are into pulling your skin off to the bone] as its cold
will cause blisters.
In order for pure ammonium nitrate to be detonated by a dynamite cap, it
must be very
dry. Spread it out under a heat lamp or in thte sun. When
completely dry, store it in tightly
closed plastic bags.
You got here on just the right day! For a limited time
only, we will be
offering this *BONUS* file to you free with the above file. That’s right!
Two
files for the price of one! And only from Omnipotent!
So you don’t know what
to do with your ammonium nitrate once you’ve made it.
You’re saying to yourself, "Great!
Now I have a chemical that is supposed to
blow things up, but I don’t want to destroy anything
[ahem?]." Well…
LAUGHING GAS
As a special treat for the dopers in the
audience and since ammonium nitrate
has been on your mind for a few minutes, you might as well
learn how to make
laughing gas from ammonium nitrate.
Laughing gas was one of the
earliest anaesthetics. After a little while of
inhaling the gas the patient became so happy
[ain't life great?] he couldn’t
keep from laughing. Finally he would drift off to a pleasant
sleep.
Some do-it-yourselfers have died while taking laughing gas. This is
because they
has generated it through plastic bags while their heads were
inside. They were simply
suffocating but were too bombed out to realize it.
The trick is to have a plastic clothes bag
in which you generate a lot of
the gas. Then you stop generating the gas and hold a small
opening of the bag
under your nose, getting plenty of oxygen in the meantime. Then, Whee!
house or which you
have purified with 100% rubbing or wood alcohol.
First, dissolve a quantity of ammonium
nitrate in some water. Then you
evaporate the water over the stove, while stirring, until you
have a heavy
brine. When nearly all the moisture is out it should solidify instantly when
When ready, dump it all out on a very cold
surface. After a while, break
it up and store it in a bottle.
A spoonful is put
into a flask with a one-hole stopper, with a tube leading
into a big plastic bag. The flask is
heated with an alcohol lamp.
When the temperature in the flask reaches 480 F the gas
will generate. If
white fumes appear the heat should be lowered as the stuff explodes at 600
F.
When the bag is filled, stop the action and get ready to turn on.
Addendum 4/12/91: N2O supplants oxygen in your blood, but you don’t realize
it. It’s easy to
die from N2O because you’re suffocating and your breathing
reflex doesn’t know it. SO: Do not
put your head in a plastic bag (duhh…)
because you will cheerfully choke to death.
BLACK POWDER:GRANDPAS RECIPE TEXT BY, EL PIRATA’
IF YA WANT TO MAKE
SOME LOW EXPLOSIVE BOMBS THEN YOU PICKED THE RIGHT CHOICE!
FIRST OF ALL, THIS RECIPE WILL SHOW
HOW TO MAKE BLACK POWDER IN A SIMPLE AND
SAFE MANNER YET HAVE THE POWER TO MAKE SOME STRONG
LOW EXPLOSIVE BOMBS.
NOTE: THE BELOW AMOUNTS WILL YIELD TWO POUNDS (THAT’S 900 GRAMS FOR YOU
METRIC
USERS) OF BLACK POWDER. HOWEVER, ONLY THE RATIOS OF THE AMOUNTS OF INGREDIENTS
ARE IMPORTANT. THUS, FOR TWICE AS MUCH BLACK POWDER, DOUBLE ALL QUANTITIES
USED.
MATERIAL REQUIRED
large wooden stick cloth, 2 ft. sq.
flat window screening, 1 ft. sq.
heat source
water, 3 cups alcohol, 5 pints (any kind)
sulfer, powdered, 1/2 cup (flowers
wood charcoal, powdered, 2 cups
of sulfer, at a drug store) potassium nitrate, granulatd, 3
cups
2 buckets, both 2 gallon, one must (saltpeter, at drug stores)
be heat resistant
PROCEDURE:
1. PLACE ALCOHOL IN ONE OF THE BUCKETS.
2. PLACE POTASSIUM
NITRATE, CHARCOAL, AND SULFUR IN THE HEAT RESISTANT
BUCKET. ADD 1 CUP WATER AND MIX THOROUGHLY
WITH WOODEN STICK UNTIL ALL
INGREDIENTS ARE DISSOLVED.
3. ADD REMAINING WATER (2
CUPS) TO MIXTURE. PLACE BUCKET ON HEAT SOURCE AND
STIR UNTIL SMALL BUBBLES BEGIN TO FORM.
CAUTION: DO NOT BOIL MIXTURE. BE SURE ALL MIXTURE STAYS WET. IF ANY IS DRY,
AS ON
SIDES OF PAN, IT MAY IGNITE.
4. REMOVE BUCKET FROM HEAT AND POUR MIXTURE INTO ALCOHOL
WHILE STIRRING
VIGOROUSLY.
5. LET ALCOHOL MIXTURE STAND ABOUT 5 MINUTES. STRAIN
MIXTURE THROUGH CLOTH
TO OBTAIN BLACK POWDER. DISCARD LIQUID. WRAP CLOTH AROUND BLACK POWDER
AND
SQUEEZE TO REMOVE ALL EXCESS LIQUID.
6. PLACE SCREENING OVER DRY BUCKET.
PLACE WORKABLE AMOUNT OF DAMP POWDER ON
SCREEN AND GRANULATE BY RUBBING SOLID THROUGH
SCREEN.
NOTE: IF GRANULATED PARTICLES APPEAR TO STICK TOGETHER AND CHANGE SHAPE,
RECOMBINE ENTIRE BATCH OF POWDER AND REPEAT STEPS 5 AND 6.
7. SPREAD GRANULATED BLACK
POWDER ON FLAT DRY SURFACE SO THAT LAYER ABOUT 1/2
INCH IS FORMED. ALLOW TO DRY. USE RADIATOR,
OR DIRECT SUNLIGHT. THIS SHOULD
BE DRIED AS SOON AS POSSIBLE, PREFERABLY IN ONE HOUR. THE
LONGER THE DRYING
PERIOD, THE LESS EFFECTIVE THE BLACK POWDER.
CAUTION: REMOVE
FROM HEAT AS SOON AS GRANULES ARE DRY. BLACK POWDER IS NOW
READY FOR USE!
EXPEDIENT GRENADES The Cheshire Cat
There are many possibilities in the field of
grenade manufacture, but for
the most part, when you’re dealing with grenades that must be
constructed of
easily available materials, the quality and the safety of the grenade is
reduced dramatically.
Here I will deal with this problem, trying to produce a
reasonable type of
grenade that is relatively safe, can be stored and transported easily,
but
produces dramatic effects. I strongly suggest that if you find it possible,
you are
far better off getting a REAL grenade than trying to produce one
yourself, but you can be the
judge. As always, I want to note that this is
all for educational purposes only, and I do not
recommend anyone trying any
of the following for real.
The first thing you need
is explosives. If you can’t get black powder, or
gun powder, or make your own plastic
explosives (we know there sure are
enough text files floating around to explain how to make
all of the above!)
than you’re really in a for making a grenade of this type.
You’ll also need a coffee can, a smaller sized can (probably like an orange
juice can, or V8),
a coat hanger, and a fuse. As for explosives, mercury
fulminate is extremely good for this
sort of thing.
You could probably get together a ton of firecrackers and take out the
black
powder (if you’re desperate) or get a couple quarter sticks from someone.
The
explosive goes in the juice can. Don’t pack it together too tight.
Loose black powder is
better than compressed. This is the main explosive.
Cut up the coat hanger into little
pieces approximately 1/2" long and fill
up the coffee can until you can put the juice can
in and the top of the juice
can is level with the top of the coffee can. If you don’t have the
time, and
need to fill up the space faster, chuck in a couple small rocks or pieces of
glass, and stuff like that until you have the bottom of the can filled.
Now place the
juice can in the coffee can, and center it. Then fill the
space around the coffee can with
coat hanger stuff until the juice can is
relatively stable. Put a model rocket fuse in the
explosive in the juice
can. Leave (at least) 3 1/2" to light from. If necessary, secure
the juice
can or the explosive with some masking tape, ect… as long as it doesn’t
interfere with the action of the grenade.
Take the lid of the coffee can and cut a hole
so that the fuse is exposed.
You now have a fragmentation grenade. It might be a good idea to
practice
with a football for a while before trying to destroy the neighbor’s garage
with
it.
try OSB systems (215)-395-1291 an awesome AE/BBS. Later, The Cheshire Cat
How to Counterfeit Written by The Wave
This article deals with how to make
counterfeit money. Before reading this
article it would be a very good idea to get a book
about photo-offset
printing, for that’s how you’ll have to print it. For someone who is
familiar
with offset printing, printing money is a breeze. Real money is made by a
process called gravure. It involves carving out of a metal block (but I don’t
think anyone can
do that by hand-if you can, you should be on That’s
Incredible!). When you are done (if you
did everything correctly) you will
have a finished product nearly identical to real money,
depending on your
printing skills. Well, let’s get started!
First I’d like to
tell you briefly how offset printing works. It starts by
making negatives (kind of like when
you take a picture with your camera).
Then you take the negatives and put them on a piece of
masking material (
usually orange). Then you expose the STRIPPED negatives or FLATS to a
lithographic plate with an arc light plate maker. The BURNED plates are then
developed with
the proper developer chemical. These plates (one at a time of
course) are wrapped around the
plate cylinder of the press. The press to use
should be an 11 by 14 (or so) offset such as the
11 by 17 AB Dick 360. Then
the printing begins! To learn in detail how to do each of these
steps you
should again get a book on the subject. The presswork takes some practice,
but
you’ll get the hang of it.
BTW you can
pick up an 11 by 14 offset for about $500
if you shop around (or you can **
BORROW ** a press from your local Insty Prints at about 3:00
in the morning!).
First, like I said before, you need negatives. Make 2 negatives of the
portrait side of the bill and 1 of the back side. After developing them and
letting them dry,
take them to a light table. Get some opaque and, on one of
the portrait sides, touch out all
the green (the seal and the serial numbers).
Line that one up on the FLAT and leave about 1/2
inch from the top of the
flat. Then for the other portrait, touch out everything BUT the seal
and
serial numbers. The back side doesn’t require any retouching because it is
all one
color.
Now, make sure all the negatives are lined up right, or REGISTERED, on the
flats. By the way, every time you need another serial number, just shoot 1
neg. of the
portrait side and cut out the serial number. Cut out the old
serial number from the flat and
replace it with the new one. Ok, now you have
3 flats, each represents a different color-black
and 2 shades of green (which
of course are made by mixing inks). Now you are ready to burn the
plates.
Take a lithographic plate and mark 3 marks on it. These marks must be 2 &
9/16 in. apart, starting on one of the short edges.
Do the same thing to 2 more plates.
Then take 1 of the flats and place it
on the plate, lining the short edge up with the edge of
the plate-EXACTLY!
Burn it, move it up to the next mark, and cover up the exposed area you
up one mark.
Then do the same process with the other 2 flats (each on a
separate plate). Develope all 3
plates. You should have 4 images on each
plate with an equal space between each bill.
Roll the Presses!
The paper you will need won’t match exactly, but you
can make it pretty damn
close (close enough for the cashier at K-Mart!). The paper to use
should have
a 25% rag content. I have found that Disaperf computer paper works great -
that’s the kind that you can barely see the perforation. Take this paper (cut
the pinfeed
holes off first!) and load it into the press. Be sure to set the
air, buckle, and paper
thickness right.
Start with the black plate (the one with out the serial numbers). Wrap
it
around the cylinder and load black ink in. Make sure you run more than you
need
because there will be a lot of rejects. Then, while that’s printing, mix
the inks for the
serial #’s and the back side. You’ll need to add some white
and maybe yellow to the serial #
ink. You need to add black to back side.
Experiment till you get it right. Clean the press and
print the other side.
Now you have the bill with no green seal or serial numbers. Print a few
with
one serial number, make another and repeat. Keep doing this until you have as
many
different numbers as you want.
Then cut the bills to the exact size with a paper cutter
Now you have a lot
of money, except there is still one problemo – the paper is pure white.
To
dye it, mix the following in a pan: 2 cups hot water, 4 tea bags, and about
16-20
drops of green food coloring (experiment). Dip one of The bills in and
compare it to a brand
new REAL bill. Make the necessary adjustments, and dye
all the bills. Then it is a good idea
to make them look used. Wrinkle them,
rub coffee grinds on them, etc. Congratulations! You’re
rich!
Some of the info was taken from The Poor Man’s James Bond, but most from
personal knowledge. Also, it would be a good idea to see the movie To Live
and Die in L.A. It
is about a counterfeiter and they did a good job of
showing how to do it. Well, that’s all
folks!
Call the Shadowkeep AE (513) 832-1938 AE:TAC
Addendum 4/12/91:
I have heard that there are several methods of detecting CONTERFEIT
money. First,
most green ink flouresces under UV light. Second, some money
verifiers sold use MAGNETIC ink
and INFRARED detection to tell if the money
is real.
I do NOT know what the
pattern used is, if anybody does, send E-mail.
HOMEMADE GUNS from "The Poor
Man’s James Bond"
PIPE OR "ZIP" GUNS
Commonly known as
"zip" guns, guns made from pipe have been used for years
by juvenile punks. Today’s
Militants make them just for the hell of it or
to shoot once in an assassination or riot and
throw away if there is any
danger of apprehension.
They can be used many times
but with some, a length of dowel is needed to
force out the spent shell.
There
are many variations but the illustration shows the basic design.
First, a wooden stock
is made and a groove is cut for the barrel to rest
in. The barrel is then taped securely to
the stock with a good, strong
tape.
The trigger is made from galvanized tin. A
slot is punched in the trigger
flap to hold a roofing nail, which is wired or soldered onto
the flap. The
trigger is bent and nailed to the stock on both sides.
The pipe is
a short length of one-quarter inch steel gas or water pipe
with a bore that fits in a
cartridge, yet keeps the cartridge rim from passing
through the pipe.
The
cartridge is put in the pipe and the cap, with a hole bored through
it, is screwed on. Then
the trigger is slowly released to let the nail pass
through the hole and rest on the
primer.
To fire, the trigger is pulled back with the left hand and held back with
the thumb of the right hand. The gun is then aimed and the thumb releases the
trigger and the
thing actually fires.
Pipes of different lengths and diameters are found in any
hardware store.
All caliber bullets, from the .22 to the .45 are used in such guns.
For instance, a
.22 shell will fit snugly into a length of a car’s copper gas
line. Unfortunatey, the copper
is too weak to withstand the pressure of the
firing. So the length of gas line is spread with
glue and pushed into a
wider length of pipe. This is spread with glue and pushed into a length
of
steel pipe with threads and a cap.
Using this method, you can accomodate any
cartridge, even a rifle shell.
The first size of pipe for a rifle shell accomodates the
bullet. The second
accomodates its wider powder chamber.
A 12-gauge shotgun can
be made from a 3/4 inch steel pipe. If you want to
comply with the gun laws, the barrel should
be at least eighteen inches long.
Its firing mechanism is the same as that for the
pistol. It naturally has
a longer stock and its handle is lengthened into a rifle butt. Also,
a small
nail is driven half way into each side of the stock about four inches in the
front of the trigger. The rubber band is put over one nail and brought
around the trigger and
snagged over the other nail.
In case you actually make a zip gun, you should test it
before firing it
by hand. This is done by first tying the gun to a tree or post, pointed to
off several
yards. The string is then pulled back and let go. If the barrel
does not blow up, the gun is
(probably) safe to fire by hand.
Astrolite and Sodium Chlorate Explosives By:
Future Spy & The Fighting Falcon
Note: Information on the Astrolite Explosives were
taken from the book
‘Two Component High Explosive Mixtures’ By Desert Pub’l
Some
of the chemicals used are somewhat toxic, but who gives a fuck! Go ahead!
I won’t even bother
mentioning ‘This information is for enlightening purposes
only’! I would love it if everyone
made a gallon of astrolite and blew their
fucking school to kingdom scum!
Astrolite
The astrolite family of liquid explosives were products of rocket
propellant
research in the ’60’s. Astrolite A-1-5 is supposed to be the world’s most
powerful non-nuclear explosive -at about 1.8 to 2 times more powerful than
TNT. Being more
powerful it is also safer to handle than TNT (not that it
isn’t safe in the first place) and
Nitroglycerin.
Astrolite G
"Astrolite G is a clear liquid explosive
especially designed to produce very
high detonation velocity, 8,600MPS (meters/sec.), compared
with 7,700MPS for
nitroglycerin and 6,900MPS for TNT…In addition, a very unusual
characteristic is that it the liquid explosive has the ability to be absorbed
easily into the
ground while remaining detonatable…In field tests, Astrolite
G has remained detonatable for
4 days in the ground, even when the soil was
soaked due to rainy weather" know what that
means?….Astrolite Dynamite!
To make (mix in fairly large container & outside)
‘anhydrous’
hydrazine, produces Astrolite G…Simple enough eh? I’m sure that
the 2:1 ratio is not
perfect,and that if you screw around with it long enough,
that you’ll find a better formula.
Also, dunno why the book says ‘anhydrous’
hydrazine, hydrazine is already anhydrous…
Hydrazine is the chemical you’ll probably have the hardest time getting
hold of. Uses
for Hydrazine are: Rocket fuel, agricultural chemicals (maleic
hydra-zide), drugs
(antibacterial and antihypertension), polymerization
catalyst, plating metals on glass and
plastics, solder fluxes, photographic
developers, diving equipment. Hydrazine is also the
chemical you should be
careful with.
Astrolite A/A-1-5
Mix 20% (weight)
aluminum powder to the ammonium nitrate, and then mix with
hydrazine. The aluminum powder
should be 100 mesh or finer. Astrolite A has
a detonation velocity of 7,800MPS.
Misc. info
You should be careful not to get any of the astrolite on you,if it happens
though, you should flush the area with water. Astrolite A&G both should be
able to be
detonated by a #8 blasting cap.
Sodium Chlorate Formulas
Sodium
Chlorate is similar to potassium chlorate,and in most cases can be a
substitute. Sodium
chlorate is also more soluble in water. You can find
sodium chlorate at Channel or any
hardware/home improvement store. It is used
in blowtorches and you can get about 3lbs for
about $6.00.
Sodium Chlorate Gunpowder
65% sodium chlorate, 22% charcoal,
13% sulfur, sprinkle some graphite on top.
Rocket Fuel
6 parts sodium chlorate
mixed *THOROUGHLY* with 5 parts rubber cement.
Rocket Fuel 2 (better performance)
50% sodium chlorate, 35% rubber cement (’One-Coat’ brand),
10% epoxy resin hardener, 5%
sulfur
You may want to add more sodium chlorate depending on the purity you are
using.
Incendiary Mixture
55% aluminum powder (atomized), 45% sodium chlorate, 5%
sulfur
Impact Mixture
50% red phosphorus, 50% sodium chlorate
Unlike
potassium chlorate,sodium chlorate won’t explode spontaneously when
mix- ed with phosphorus.
It has to be hit to be detonated.
Filler explosive
85% sodium chlorate, 10%
vaseline, 5% aluminum powder
Nitromethane formulas
I thought that I might add
this in since it’s similar to Astrolite.
Nitromethane (CH3NO2) specific
gravity:1.139
flash point:95f auto-ignite:785f
Derivation: reaction of methane or
propane with nitric acid under pressure.
Uses: Rocket fuel; solvent for cellulosic compounds,
polymers, waxes,
fats, etc.
To be detonated with a #8 cap, add:
1)
95% nitromethane + 5% ethylenediamine 2) 94% nitromethane + 6% aniline
Power output:
22-24% more powerful than TNT. Detonation velocity of 6,200MPS.
Nitromethane ’solid’
explosives
2 parts nitromethane, 5 parts ammonium nitrate (solid powder)
soak for
3-5 min. when done,store in an air-tight container. This is
supposed to be 30% more powerful
than dynamite containing 60% nitro-glycerin,
and has 30% more brilliance.
The
Firey Explosive Pen Written by Blue Max of Anarchist-R-Us
Materials Needed Here’s a
GREAT little trick to play on
1] One Ball Point `Click` pen your best fiend (no thats not a
typo) at
2] Gun Powder skool, or maybe as a practial joke on a
3] 8 or 10 match heads
friend!
4] 1 Match stick
5] a sheet of sand paper (1 1/2" X 2")
1] Unscrew pen and remove all parts but leave the button in the top.
2] Stick the match stick
in the part of the pen clicker where the other little
parts and the ink fill was.
3]
Roll sand paper up and put around the match stick that is in the clicker.
4] Put the remaining
Match Heads inside the pen, make sure that they are on
the inside on the sand paper.
5]
Put a small piece of paper or something in the other end of the pen where
the ball point comes
out.
6] Fill the end with the piece of paper in it with gun powder. The paper is
to keep
the powder from spilling.
The Finished pen should look like this:
Small
Paper Clog Gun Powder Matches & Sandpaper \
| |
\ | |
\
_________________|____________________|________
<_______________________________|_______________|===
HOW TO BLOW UP A CAR: A
different way by THE FLYING HERMIT
There are times in a man’s life when he gets mad at
someone. And then there
are times when he gets REAL mad at someone. These are the times for
vengence.
And what better way to get back at someone than damaging his/her car. The
thing which s/he has saved up for, worked hard for, and paid for.
Yes!!! This is the item
which you must attack, for most of the time, it is
parked outside, easily accesible at night
and very important to the asshole
you want to annoy. The method I will describe is relatively
easy and safe to
set up, but very effective in causing damage. The method of destruction
will
be explosion. The explosive device is already inside the car, factory
installed
just for you to use. It is the standard 12 volt car battery.
Let’s look at the
princleple behind the exploding battery:
You are by now familiar with the theory of how
batteries work, and if you
aren’t, your probably too young to be thinking of these sorts of
things.
Anyway, within the battery, is not only a current flowing from positive to
negative (actually, it is from negative to positive, but that’s another
story), but also a
small internal resistance. The resistance inside the
battery is in the order of magnitude of
roughly .0024 OHM, an amount so small,
it is usually ignored. But, that is for normal
operation of the battery. The
case we’re interrested in is for the closed circuit of the
battery by itself.
For a closed circuit, the internal resistance becomes a big deal, and
the
following holds true:
12volt/.0024 ohm = 5000 amps
Amazing!!!!! by causing a
short circuit (closed circuit), the battery
produces 5000 amps of current running through that
little bugger. However,
this current is short lived, and the battery cannot handle this
capacity for
long, so therefore the battery explodes. It explodes with a rather large
force, causing considerable damage from the pressure, flames, and hurling
lead. All these
goodies combined with the volatile liquids hidden inside the
engine will cause the vehicle to
add another member to the big junk yard in
the sky.
Great!! now we know how to make the
car blow up, but we don’t want to go up
with hte car, so what we need is a triggering device.
one can go from the
simple to elaborate, by incorporating sophisticated devices such as
radio
transmitters, but for our purposes, we will opt for a simple timer and relay
device.
First, we will need some heavy cable, capable of handling the massive
current
without melting, then we will need a relay also able to cope with
large currents. Next, we
need a timer which will count down the seconds to
our triuphant vengance. And finally, a small
battery to run the relay (the
small battery will run both the relay and the timer if you are
using a digital
timer). Now: Connect the small battery to the timer, the timer to the
relay,
and the relay to the car battery. Connect the heavy duty relay to the the car
battery with the heavy cable. There you have it!!!!
remember, tinkering with other
people’s property is a no-no, and officer
friendly might get ugly with you if he sees you
doing this, so be forewarned.
Also, car batteries are dangerous to play with, and if handled
improperly, may
explode unintentionally, causing the concentrated acid to spray in your
face,
making you look like the elephant man. so don’t come crying to me when
something
happens, cause i’ll just laugh at you and possibly urinate over you
if you rub me the wrong
way.
call the RIPCO bulletin board, ‘a hell of a bbs’ at (312) 528-5020
MERCURY BATTERY BOMB! By Phucked Agent!
Materials:
1 Mercury Battery (1.5
or 1.4 V Hearing Aid), 1 working lamp with on/off switch
It is VERY SIMPLE!!! Hurray!
Kids under 18 shouldn’t considered try this one
or else they would have mercuric acid on their
faces!
1. Turn the lamp switch on to see if lite-bulb light up.
2. If work, leave
the switch on and unplug the cord
3. Unscrew the bulb (Dont touch the hot-spot!)
4.
Place 1 Mercury Battery in the socket and make sure that it is touching
the Hot-spot
contact.
5. Move any object or furniture – Why? There may be sparx given off!
6. Now
your favorite part, stand back and plug in cord in the socket.
7. And you will have fun!! Like
Real Party!!!
If your house is on fire (VERY RARE), get that damm fire blower! This
stuph will
NOT destroy your plugs, but maybe the fuse depending how often you do that….
TRY SKIDD’S LAB BBS 312-631-5256
A milk carton bomb is relitively simple and safe. It’s only purpose it to
create a loud noise.
The ingredients needed to make this are few and easy to aquire.
You will
need a plastic milk carton, lighter fluid(type used in cigarette lighters), a
piece of paper, and a pair of chopsticks. If you can not obtain chop sticks,
it’s okay to
substitute them with something that can hold the paper and is
long enough so that you won’t be
harmed by the flames.
After acquiring all of the ingredients, you can now start to make
the bomb.
The procedure is easy. First, puncture a hole at the bottom of the milk
carton
with a screw driver or equivalent. Next fill one-fourth of the milk
carton with lighter
fluid.
Place the milk carton in a fairly large area outisde. Hold a piece of paper
lighted paper
under the hole of the carton and BOOM! You have your loud
explosion with little damage to the
surrounding area. It would be a good idea
to have some water handy to extinguish any
flames.
Be careful when doing this and have fun.