Unlimited Explosives for TOTAL WAR
Unlimited Explosives
for
TOTAL WAR
——————————————————————————————-
All material has been written by myself and others,this document shows every known explosive
for terrorist use;this was made for warfare information only and should be used not by the average
idiot but a person with extended knowledge of chemistry.Before you attempt at making any of the
devices just remember: Saftey First!!!
(this document must be veiwed in the WordPad format
only because NotePad does not support the diagrams in these papers)
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++Special Thanks to Bradon Hurley of Cincinnati,Ohio who made me
what I am today;thanks for rating me out for 7 mutha fuckin years!!!+++++++++++++++
Introduction
Warning
…………………………………….
Chapter 1 – Low Explosives
Blackpowder
…………………………………
Other Types of Blackpowder ……………………
Zinc Explosive ………………………………
Water Fire Starter
…………………………..
Explosive Misxtures ………………………….
Chapter 2 – High Explosives
Astrolite …………………………………..
Astrolite A/A-1-5 ……………………………
Sodium Chlorate Explosives
……………………
Sodium Chlorate Gunpowder …………………….
Rocket
Fuel …………………………………
Rocket Fuel 2 (better performance)
…………….
Incendiary Mixture …………………………..
Impact Mixture
………………………………
Filler Explosive …………………………….
Nitromethane ’solid’ Explosives
……………….
Picric Acid …………………………………
Making Picric
Acid from Aspirin ……………….
Tetryl ……………………………………..
R.D.X.
……………………………………..
R.D.X. (in
details)…………………………..
Composition ‘C’ ……………………………..
Composition C-2 and C-3 ………………………
Gelatin Dynamite
…………………………….
Peroxyacetone ……………………………….
Cellulose Nitrate (guncotton) …………………
Nitrogen Triiodide
…………………………..
Nitroglycerin ………………………………
Making Sulfuric Acid …………………………
T.N.T. (Trinitrotoulene)
……………………..
Mercury Fulminate ……………………………
Mercury
Fulminate II …………………………
Mercury Fulminate II (in
details)………………
M-80’s ……………………………………..
Nitrogen
Trichloride …………………………
Crater Makers (written by Master
Mayhem)………..
Blasting Gel-ignite (by The Flower Child)……….
Making Sodium or
Potassium Chlorate ……………
Plastique Explosive From Chlorinating Compound ….
Plastique Explosive From Table Salt ……………
Gelatine From Anti-Freeze (diethelene
glycol)……
Acetone Peroxide …………………………….
Double Salts
………………………………..
Lead Picrate ………………………………..
Silver Fulminate
…………………………….
Nitroguanidine ………………………………
M.M.A.N.(Monomethylamine nitrate)………………
PETN (Pentaerythrite
Tetranitrate)……………..
Nitromannite(Mannite hexanitrate)………………
TACC
(Tetraminecopper (II) Chlorate)……………
DDNP
(Diazodinitrophenol)……………………..
HMTD
(Hexamethylenetriperoxidediamine)………….
Chapter 3 – Incendiaries
Napalm
……………………………………..
Thermite
……………………………………
Chemically Ignited Explosives
…………………
Chapter 4 – Smoke Bombs
Smoke Producer
………………………………
Smoke Bomb ………………………………….
Smoke Mixtures
………………………………
Chlorine and Turpentine ………………………
Tear Gas (from the terrorist hand
book)…………
Chapter 5 – Bombs
Generic Bomb ………………………………..
Firebombs …………………………………..
Pipe Bomb
…………………………………..
Contact Grenade ……………………………..
Carbide Bomb ………………………………..
Hindenberg Bomb
……………………………..
Fireworks the Fact Book ………………………
Mercury Explosive ……………………………
E-Z Pipe Bomb
……………………………….
Pipe Bomb II ………………………………..
Cherry Bomb
…………………………………
E-Z Terrorism Kit ……………………………
Unstable mud ………………………………..
Molotov Cocktails ……………………………
Chemical Explosive Bottle
…………………….
Chemical Fire Bottle …………………………
Exploding Drugs ……………………………..
Nitrostarch Explosives
……………………….
E-Z Molotov Cocktail …………………………
10
Great Explosive Mixtures …………………..
Chapter 7 – Fuses and Timers
Black
Powder Fuse ……………………………
Slow Burning
………………………………..
Fast Burning ………………………………..
Digtal Timer (from Diabolical G
D)……………..
Radio Control Detonators ……………………..
Electric
Blasting Cap Manufacture ……………..
Fuse Cap Manufacture
…………………………
How Blasting Caps Works ………………………
Chapter 8 – Nuclear Weapons
Nuclear Weapons ……………………………..
Atomic
Weapons ………………………………
——————————————————————————————-
INTRODUCTION
——————————————————————————————-
The trouble with chemical books these days,is that they never explain
in detail how to
make something that you want.Sure,they tell you how the
Chinese did it in 1500 or ten
centuries ago.But now days, that does not
help.Even some of the army manuals don’t even give
you enough information
on HOW-TO-DO it.
It’s a fun game to search out the
materials that can be put together to
make something go "BOOM".An interesting point
to remember that it is much
easier to make a big explosion than a small one.It is very
difficult for
a home expermienter to make a fire-cracker,but a bomb capable of blowing
the walls out of a building is easy.You can find what you need in grocery
stores,hardware
stores,and farm supplies.Another,but harder place,to get
chemicals is a chemical supply
house.These places can be dangerous to
your explosive career because some supply houses were
told to report
people who buy chemicals in a certain combination.For example;If a person
were to buy tolulene,nitric acid,and sulfuric acid would be reported.The
reason:those
chemicals are the ones used in making Tri-nitro-tolulene
(TNT).
WARNING:
——–
The actual construction of the devices and materials described in this
text are dangerous,even for an experienced chemist.Also,the construction
or possession of many
of these devices would be in violation of many
federal,state,and local laws.
BlackPowder3 is not responsible for what damages or trouble that
the missuse of the
information that is stated herein.Therefore you are
responsible for all of your actions that
you make.Intended for warfare
purposes only.
——————————————————————————————-
CHAPTER ONE [LOW EXPLOSIVES]
——————————————————————————————-
Low explosive are good for making a loud bang, or to scare the living
daylight out of
some poor person or even for making booby traps. In this
chapter I will explain the making of
many different types of low
explosives.
BLACKPOWDER
———–
You will need potassium or sodium nitrate, sulfur, and hardwood
charcoal. The common
name for potassium nitrate is saltpeter. Sodium
nitrate is sold at farm supplies under the
name of nitrate of soda. It is
also called chile saltpeter. Sodium nitrate make a slightly
more powerful
black powder but has a disadvantage because it will absorb moisture from
the air. So, if you use it then be sure to store it in a dry, air tight
container. You also
can get sulfur at farm supplies as a wetable powder
used for spraying. It is cheap and works
well. Some drug stores sell
sulfur under the name of flowers of sulfur. If you use nitrate of
soda,
it will be in the form of little round beads. Bake it in an over at 200
degrees
for 10-15 minutes to drive out the moisture. Then dump a cup or
two into a blender and switch
it on. It will do a beautiful job of
reducing it to powder. Buy a bag of charcoal briquettes
at a grocery
store. Put a few briquettes in a rag and pound with a hammer. Dip the
results into the blender, grind, and strain through a tea strainer. Mix
by volume:
2 parts powdered charcoal
1 part sulfur
confined. It
can be greatly improved, however, by processing it as
follows:
Moisten with water
until it will stick together when pinched between
thumb and finger.
Press it into
a disposable aluminum pie pan.
Bake it in a preheated oven at 200 degrees for about 30
minutes.
Get it totally dry. Grind into a fine a powder as possible with a
mortar
and pestle.
If you use a blender at this point, there is a danger of explosion.
It is not very sensitive to friction or impact, but is very sensitive
to sparks.
If you followed these directtions, you should have a fine slate-grey
powder.
OTHER TYPES OF BLACKPOWDER
————————–
than the ordinary
potassium nitrate powder. The only disadvantage (or
advantage) is that it is very sensitive to
sparks and some leave a
corrosive residue. A word of caution: when you decide to make these
they want to.
[All chemicals are measured by volume]
1: Potassium perchlorate 69.2%
Sulfur 15.4%
Charcoal 15.4%
2: Potassium nitrate 70.4%
Sulfur
19.4%
Sodium sulfate 10.2%
3: Potassium nitrate 64.0%
sulfur
12.0%
sawdust 17.0%
charcoal 7.0%
4: Potassium nitrate 50.0%
Ammonium perchlorate 25.0%
Sulfur 12.5%
charcoal 12.5%
5: Barium
nitrate 75.0%
Charcoal 12.5%
Sulfur 12.5%
6: Sodium peroxide
67.0%
Sodium thiosulphate 33.0%
7: Potassium chlorate 75.0%
Sulfur
12.5%
Charcoal 12.5%
8: Potassium nitrate 79.0%
straw charcoal
12.0%
sulfur 12.0%
9: Potassium nitrate 70.6%
Sulfur 23.5%
Antimony sulfate 5.9%
10: Potassium nitrate 37.5%
Starch
37.5%
Sulfur 18.75%
Antimony powder 6.25%
11: Guanidine nitrate 49.0%
Potassium nitrate 40.0%
Charcoal 11.0%
The above chemical ratios are
percentages. When making the stuff, be
sure to grind up all the ingredients as fine as you
possibly can. The
finer you have the chemicals the better it will explode.
ZINC EXPLOSIVE
————–
To make a big flash of flames almost
instantly try mixing:
1 part Zinc dust
1 part Sulfur
When these two
mix together they will burst into flame almost instantly!
Be careful for it does go off in a
sudden flash and can singe anything that
it is around if not expecting it. This is not a
powerful explosive but it
is violent even when not confined, so be careful.
WATER FIRE STARTER
——————
So, do you think water puts out
fires? In this one, it starts it.
Mixture: ammonium nitrate + ammonium chloride + iodine +
zinc dust. When a
drop or two of water is added, the ammonium nitrate forms nitric acid
which
reacts with the zinc to produce hydrogen and heat. The heat vaporizes the
iodine
(giving off purple smoke) and the ammonium chloride (becomes purple
when mixed with iodine
vapor). It will ignite the hydrogen and begin
burning.
Ammonium nitrate: 8
grams
Ammonium choride: 1 gram
Zinc dust : 8 grams
Iodine crystals : 1 gram
EXPLOSIVE MIXTURES
——————
Following is a list of
chemicals, most of which can be easily obtained.
You will also find the chemical symbol of
another chemical which explodes
on contact with said chemical. This is useful in making the
ever so useful
pipe bomb.
Just for the people that don’t know:
Page 5
CHEMICAL EXPLODES WITH
—————————————————————————
Acetic acid H2SO4
HNO3
Acetic anhydride H2SO4 HNO3
Acrolein H2SO4 HNO3
Allyl alcohol H2SO4 HNO3
Aniline H2SO4 HNO3
Aniline acetate H2SO4 HNO3
Aniline
hydrochloride H2SO4 HNO3
Benzoyl peroxide H2SO4 HNO3
Cyanic acid H2SO4 HNO3
Chlorosulfonic acid H2SO4 HNO3
Dimethyl keytone H2SO4 HNO3
Epichlorohydrin H2SO4 HNO3
Ethylene imine H2SO4 HNO3
Hydrogen peroxide H2SO4 HNO3
Mesityl oxide H2SO4 HNO3
Acetone Cyanohydrin H2SO4
Carbon
disulfide H2SO4
Cresol H2SO4
Cumene H2SO4
Diisobutylene H2SO4
Ethylene
cyanohydrin H2SO4
Ethylene glycol H2SO4
Hydrofluoric acid H2SO4
Cyanide of sodium
HNO3
Cyclohexanol HNO3
Cyclohexanone HNO3
Ethyl alcohol HNO3
Hydrazine
HNO3
Hydriodic acid HNO3
Isopropyl ether HNO3
Manganese HNO3
H2SO4 –
Sulfuric Acid
HNO3 – Nitric Acid
——————————————————————————————-
CHAPTER TWO [HIGH EXPLOSIVES]
——————————————————————————————-
Now, here I stress the word of saftey. These explosive compounds can
remove a limb or
kill you. So I would suggest, before you even think about
trying any of these, that you have
some background knowledge on explosive
or chemistry. These explosives range from sound
sensitive to water
sensitive or electrically ignited.
It takes time and patience
to make high explosive compounds. Some are
easier than the others and some of the chemicals
seem almost impossible to
find. In this part, to obtain most of the chemicals needed her e you
will
have to go though a chemical supply house. Remember that some of the
chemical
houses have been told to notify the police if a certain
combination of chemicals are ordered
then send the name and all the
information about that person ordering to the police. And it is
possible
that you might get a little visit from the city law. Also, making, using,
selling, or possession of many of the explosives are illegal and a hard
penalty can rise. Even
for first offenders. Take this warning. Its true!
ASTROLITE
———
The astrolite family of liquid explosives were products of rocket
propellant
research in the ’60’s. Astrolite A-1-5 is supposed to be the
world’s most powerful non-nuclear
explosive -at about 1.8 to 2 times more
powerful than TNT. Being more powerful it is also
safer to handle than
TNT (not that it isn’t safe in the first place) and Nitroglycerin.
"Astrolite G is a clear liquid explosive especially designed to
produce very high
detonation velocity, 8,600MPS (meters/sec.) compared
with 7,700MPS for nitroglycerin and
6,900MPS for TNT. In addition, a very
unusual characteristic is that it the liquid explosive
has the ability to
be absorbed easily into the ground while remaining detonable…In field
when the soil was
soaked due to rainy weather know what that means?…
Astrolite Dynamite!
To make
(mix in fairly large container & outside) two parts by weight
of ammonium nitrate mixed
with one part by weight ‘anhydrous’ hydrazine,
produces Astrolite G… Feel free to use
different ratios.
Hydrazine is the chemical you’ll probably have the hardest time
getting hold of. Uses for Hydrazine are: Rocket fuel, agricultural
chemicals (maleic
hydrazide), drugs (antibacterial and antihypertension),
polymerization catalyst, plating
metals on glass and plastics, solder
fluxes, photographic developers, diving equipment.
Hydrazine is also the
chemical you should be careful with.
ASTROLITE A/A-1-5
—————–
Ok, here’s the good part…
Mix
20%(weight) aluminum powder to the ammonium nitrate,and then mix with
hydrazine. The aluminum
powder should be 100 mesh or finer. Astrolite A
has a detonation velocity of 7,800MPS.
You should be careful not to get any of the astrolite on you, if it happens
though, you
should flush the area with water. Astrolite A&G both should be
able to be detonated by a
#8 blasting cap.
SODIUM CHLORATE EXPLOSIVES
————————–
Potassium chlorate is similar to Sodium chlorate,and in most cases can be a
substitute. Sodium chlorate is also more soluble in water. You can find
sodium chlorate at
Channel or any hardware/home improvement store. It is
used in blowtorches and you can get
about 3lbs for about $6.00.
SODIUM CHLORATE GUNPOWDER
————————-
65% sodium chlorate
22% charcoal
13% sulphur
and sprinkle some graphite on top.
ROCKET FUEL
———–
6 parts sodium chlorate mixed *THOROUGHLY* with 5 parts rubber cement.
ROCKET FUEL 2 (better performance)
———————————-
50% sodium
chlorate
35% rubber cement
10% epoxy resin hardener
5% sulphur
You
may wish to add more sodium chlorate depending on the purity you are
using.
——————
55% aluminum powder (atomized)
45%
sodium chlorate
5% sulphur
IMPACT MIXTURE
————–
50% red phosphorus
50% sodium chlorate
Unlike potassium chlorate,
sodium chlorate won’t explode spontaneously when
mixed with phosphorus. It has to be hit to be
detonated.
FILLER EXPLOSIVE
—————-
85% sodium
chlorate
10% vaseline
5% aluminum powder
NITROMETHANE EXPLOSIVES
Nitromethane (CH3NO2)
Specific gravity: 1.139
Flash point : 95f
Auto-ignite : 785f
Derivation: Reaction of methane or propane
with nitric acid under pressure.
Uses: Rocket fuel; solvent for cellulosic compounds,
polymers, waxes,
fats, etc.
To be detonated with a #8 cap, add:
1)
95% nitromethane + 5% ethylenediamine
2) 94% nitromethane + 6% aniline
Power
output: 22-24% more powerful than TNT. detonation velocity of
6,200MPS.
NITROMETHANE ‘SOLID’ EXPLOSIVES
——————————-
2 parts
nitromethane
5 parts ammonium nitrate (solid powder)
Soak for 3-5 min. when done,
store in an air-tight container. This is
supposed to be 30% more powerful than dynamite
containing 60%
nitroglycerin, and has 30% more brisance.
PICRIC ACID
———–
Phenol is melted and then mixed with a concentrated solution of
sulfuric acid. The mixture is constatnly stirred and kept at a steady
temperature of 95
degrees Celsius for four to six hours depending on the
quantities of phenol used. After this,
the acid-phenol solution is diluted
with distilled water, and an equal excess amount of nitric
acid is added.
The mixture of the nitric acid will cause an immediate reaction, which will
importantly the
temperature of the solution must not go above 110 degrees
Celsius. Ten or so minutes after the
addition of nitric acid the picric
acid will be fully formed and you can drain off the excess
acid. It should
be filtered and washed in the same manner as above until little or no acid
should be
allowed to partially dry. Picric acid is a more powerful
explosive than TNT, but it has its
disadvantages. It is more expensive to
make, and it best handled in a wet 10 percent distilled
water form as
pictic becomes very unstable when completely dry. This compound should
never be put into direct contact with metal, since instantly on contact
there is a formation
of metal picrate, which explodes spontaneously upon
formation.
Making Picric Acid
from Aspirin
——————————-
Picric Acid can be used as a booster
explosive in detonators, a high
explosive charge, or as an intermediate to preparing lead
picrate.
Material Required
—————–
Aspirin tablets (5 grains per
tablet)
Alcohol, 95% pure
Sulfuric acid, concentrated, (if battery acid, boil until
white fumes
disappear)
Potassium Nitrate (see elsewhere in this Cookbook)
Water
Paper towels
Canning jar, 1 pint
Rod (glass or wood)
Glass
containers
Ceramic or glass dish
Cup
Teaspoon
Tablespoon
Pan
Heat source
Tape
Procedure:
———
1) Crush 20 aspirin
tablets in a glass container. Add 1 teaspoon of water
and work into a paste.
2) Add
approximately 1/3 to 1/2 cup of alcohol (100 millilitres) to the
aspirin paste; stir while
pouring.
3) Filter the alcohol-aspirin solution through a paper towel into another
glass container. Discard the solid left in the paper towel.
4) Pour the filtered solution into
a glass or ceramic dish.
5) Evaporate the alcohol and water from the solution by placing the
dish
into a pan of hot water. White powder will remain in the dish after
evaporation.
NOTE: The water in the pan should be at hot bath temperature, not boiling,
approx. 160 to 180 degress farenheit. It should not burn the hands.
6) Pour 1/3
cup (80 millilitres) of concentrated sulfuric acid into a
canning jar. Add the white powder
to the sulfuric acid.
7) Heat canning jar of sulfuric acid in a pan of simmering hot water
bath
for 15 minutes; then remove jar from the bath. Solution will turn to a
yellow-orange color.
Add 3 level teaspoons (15 grams) of potassium nitrate in three
portions
to the yellow-orange solution; stir vigorously during additions. Solution
will turn red, then back to a yellow-orange color.
9) Allow the solution to cool to ambient
room temperature while stirring
occasionally.
10) Slowly pour the solution, while
stirring, into 1-1/4 cup (300
millilitres) of cold water and allow to cool.
11) Filter
the solution through a paper towel into a glass container. Light
yellow particles will
collect on the paper towel.
12) Wash the light yellow particles with 2 tablespoons (25
millilitres) of
water. Discard the waste liquid in the container.
13) Place articles in
ceramic dish and set in a hot water bath, as in step
5, for 2 hours.
TETRYL
A small amount of dimethyllaniline is dissolved in an excess amount
of
concentrated sulfuric acid. This mixture is now added to an equal
amount of nitric acid. The
new mixture is kept in an ice bath, and is well
stirred. After about five minutes, the
tetrylis filtered and then washed
in cold water. It is now boiled in fresh water, which
contains a small
amount of sodium bicarbonate. This process acts to neutralize any
remaining acid. The washings are repeated as many times as necessary
according to the litmus
paper tests. When you are satisfied that the tetryl
is free of acids, filter it from the water
and allowed to dry. When tetryl
is detonated, it reacts in very much the same way as TNT.
PLASTIC EXPLOSIVE FROM BLEACH
—————————–
This
explosive is a Potassium chlorate explosive. This explosive and
explosives of similar
composition were used in WWI as the main explosive
filler in grenades, land mines, and morter
rounds used by French, German,
and some other forces involved in that conflict.
These explosives are relatively safe to manufacture. The procedures
in the following paragraph
can be dangerous if you don’t take special care.
One should strive to make sure these
explosives are free from sulfur,
sulfides, and picric acid. The presence of these compounds
result in
mixtures that are or can become highly sensitive and possibly decompose
explosively while in storage. One should never store home made explosives,
make enough for
what you need at the time. YOU NEVER KNOW HOW STABLE IT IS
UNTIL IT BLOWS!
The
manufacter of this explosive from bleach is given just as an
expediant method. This method of
manufacturing potassium chlorate is not
economical due to the amount of energy used to boil
the solution and cause
the "Dissociation" reaction to take place. The procedure does
work and
yields a relatively pure and a sulfur, sulfide free product.
These
explosives are very cap sensitive and require only a #3 cap for
instigating detonation.
To manufacture potassium chlorate from bleach, (5.25% sodium
hypochlorite
solution), obtain a heat source, hot-plate, stove , etc., a
battery hydrometer, a large pyrex
or enameled steel container, a triple
beam balance (to weigh chemicals), and some potassium
chloride, (sold as
salt substitute).
Take one gallon of bleach and place it in
the container and begin
heating it. While this solution heats, weigh out 63 grams potassium
boil and boil
until when checked with a hydrometer the reading is 1.3, (if
battery hydrometer is used, it
should read FULL charge).
When the reading is 1.3 take the solution and let it cool in
the
refrigerator until it is between room temperature and 0 degrees Celsius.
Filter out
the crystals that have formed and save them. Boil this solution
again and cool as before.
Filter and save the crystals.
Take these crystals that have been saved and mix them
with distilled
water in the following proportions: 56 grams per 100 mililiters distilled
water. Heat that solution until it boils and allow to cool. Filter the
solution and save the
crystals the form upon cooling. This p rocess of
purification is called fractional
crystalization. These crystals should be
relatively pure potassium chlorate.
Powder these to the consistancy of face powder and heat gently to
drive off all moisture.
Melt five parts vaseline and five parts wax. Dissolve this in white
gasoline, (camp
stove gasoline), and pour this liquid on 90 parts potassium
chlorate, (the powdered crystals
from above), in a plastic bowl.
Knead this liquid into the potassium chlorate until
intimately mixed.
Allow all the gasoline to evaporate.
Place this explosive in a
cool dry place. Avoid friction, sulfur,
sulfides, and phophorous compounds. This explosive is
best molded to the
desired shape and density of 1.3 grams in a cube and dipped in wax till
velocity.
RDX
—
THE PRODUCTION OF RDX IS VERY DANGEROUS IF YOU DON’T KNOW WHAT
YOU ARE
DOING. DO NOT ATTEMPT ANY OF THIS UNLESS YOU HAVE TAKEN SAFTEY PRECAUTIONS.
been searching for
the perfect plastique explosives to be used in
demolition work. This search lead to the
development of the ‘C’ composition
plastique explosives. Of this group C-4 being the lastest
formulation
that has been readily adopted by the armed forces. This formulation was
preceded by C-3, C-2, and C. In this series of articles, I will cover
all these explosives in
their chronological progression as they were
developed and standardized by the armed forces.
All these explosives are
cyclonite (R.D.X.) base with various plastisizing agents used to
achieve
the desired product. This plastisizer, usually composes 7%-20% of the
total
weight of the plastique. Cyclotrimethylenetrinittrime or cyclonite is
manufactured in bulk by
the nitration of hexamethylenetetramine,
(methenamine, hexamine, etc., etc.) with strong red
100% nitric acid. The
hardest part of this reaction is obtaining this red nitric acid. It
will
most likely have to be made. More on this later. Hexamine or methenamine
can
usually be bought in bulk quantities or hexamine fuel bars fo r camp
stoves can be used but
they end up being very expensive. To use the fuel
bars the need to be powered before hand. The
hexamine can also be made
with common ammonia water (30%) and the commonly avaliable 36%
formaldehyde
solution. To make this componant place 185 grams of clear ammonia water
in
a shallow pyrex dish. To this add 500 ml. of the formaldehyde solution
to the ammonia water.
Allow this to evaporate and when the crystals are
all that remains in the pan place the pan in
the oven on the lowest heat
that the oven has. This should be done only for a moment or so to
drive off
any remaining water. These crystals are scraped up and placed in a airtight
jar to store them until they are used. To make the red nitric acid you
will need to buy a
retort with a ground glass stopper. In the retort place
32 grams sulfuric acid, (98%-100%),
and to this add 68 grams of potassium
nitrate or 58 grams of sodium nitrate. Gently heating
this retort will
generate a red gas called nitrogen trioxide. THIS GAS IS HIGHLY POISONOUS
VENTILATION. This nitric
acid that is formed will collect in the neck of
the retort and form droplets that will run
down the inside of the neck of
the retort and should be caught in a beaker cooled by being
surrounded by
ice water.
This should be heated till no more collects in the neck
of the retort
and the nitric acid quits dripping out of the neck into the beaker. This
acid should be stored until enough acid is generated to produce the
required size batch which
is determined by the person producing the
explosive. Of course the batch can be larger or
smaller but the same
rations should be maintained. To make R.D.X. place 550 grams of the
nitric
acid produced by the above procedure in a 1000 ml. beaker in a salted bath.
50
grams of hexamine, (methenamine) is added in small portions making sure
that the temperature
of the acid DOES NOT GO ABOVE 30 DEGREES CELCIUS.
This temperature can be monitored by placing
a thermometer directly in the
acid mixture. During this procedure a vigorous stirring should
be
maintained. If the temperature approaches 30 degrees, IMMEDIATLY STOP THE
ADDITION OF
THE HEXAMINE until the temperature drops to an acceptable
level. After the addition is
complete continue the stirring and allow the
temperature to drop to 0 degrees celcius and
allow it to stay there for 20
minutes coninuing the vigorous stirring. After the 20 minutes
are up, pour
this acid-hexamine mixture into 1000 ml. of finely crushed ice and water.
Crystals should form and are filtered out of the liquid. The crystals that
are filtered out
are R.D.X. and will need to have all traces of the acid
removed. To remove this trace of acid,
first wash these crystals by putting
them in ice water and shaking and refiltering. These
crystals are then
placed in a little boiling water and filtered. Place them in some warm
water and check the acidity for the resultant suspension with litmus paper.
You want it to
read between 6 and 7 on the Ph scale. If there
is still acid in these crystals reboil them in
fresh water until the acid
is removed and the litmus paper shows them between 6 and 7, (the
closer to
7 the better). To be safe these crystals should be stored water wet until
ready for use. THESE CRYSTALS ARE A VERY HIGH EXPLOSIVE AND SHOULD BE
TREATED WITH THE RESPECT
THEY DESERVE! This explosive is much more powerful
than T.N.T. To use, these will need to be
dryed for some manufaturing
processes in the next few articles. To dry these crystals, place
them in a
pan and spread them out and allow the water to evaporate off them until the
are completely dry. This explosive will detonate in this dry form when
pressed into a mold to
a density of 1.55 grams cubed, at a velocity of 8550
M/second!
COMPOSITION
‘C’
—————
All of the type ‘C’ plastic explosives (that includes C-2,
C-3, and
C-4) are exceedingly powerful and should be used with utmost care.
This
explosive is just a copy of a British explosive that was adopted
early in WWII. This explosive
is the choice explosive of the type ‘C’
compounds because of its relative ease of manufacture
and the easy
aquisition of the plastizer compound. This explosive was available in
standard demolition blocks.
This explosive was standardized and adopted in the
following
composition:
R.D.X…………………….. 88.3%
Heavy mineral
oil………….. 11.1%
Lecithin………………….. 00.6%
(all percentages
are by weight)
In this composition, the lecithin acts to prevent the formation of
large
crystals of R.D.X. which would increase the sensitivity of the explosive.
This
explosive has a good deal of power and is relatively non-toxic
(except when ingested).
It is also plastic from 0-40 degrees celcius. Above 40 degrees the
explosive undergoes
extrudation and becomes gummy although its explosive
properties go relatively unimpaired.
Below 0 degrees celcius it becomes
brittle and its cap sensitivity is lessened
considerably.
Manufacturing this explosive can be done two ways. First being to
dissolve the 11.7% plastisizing in unleaded gasoline and mixing with the
R.D.X. and allowing
the gasoline to evaporate until the mixture is free of
all gasoline.
The second
method being the simple kneading of the plastisizing compound
into the R.D.X. until a uniform
mixture is obtained.
This explosive should be stored in a cool-dry place. If properly
made
the plastique should be very stable in storage even if stored at elevated
temparatures for long periods of time.
It should be very cap sensitive. A booster will
be a good choice,
especially if used below 0 degrees celcius. This detonates at a velocity
R.D.X. in Details
—————–
R.D.X., also called
cyclonite, or composition C-1 (when mixed with
plasticisers) is one of the most valuable of
all military explosives. This is
because it has more than 150% of the power of T.N.T., and is
much easier to
detonate. It should not be used alone, since it can be set off by a not-too
but it is
still too sensitive to be used alone. R.D.X. can be made by the
surprisingly simple method
outlined hereafter. It is much easier to make in
the
home than all other high
explosives, with the possible exception of ammonium
nitrate.
MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
——— ———
hexamine 500 ml beaker
or
methenamine glass stirring
rod
fuel tablets (50 g)
funnel and filter paper
concentrated
nitric acid
(550 ml) ice bath container
(plastic bucket)
distilled water
centigrade
thermometer
table salt
blue litmus paper
ice
ammonium nitrate
1) Place the beaker in the ice bath, (see section 3.13, steps 3-4) and
carefully pour
550 ml of concentrated nitric acid into the beaker.
2) When the acid has cooled to below 20
degrees centigrade, add small amounts
of the crushed fuel tablets to the beaker.The
temperature will rise, and it
must be kept below 30 degrees centigrade, or dire consequences
could result.
Stir the mixture.
3) Drop the temperature below zero degrees centigrade,
either by adding more
ice and salt to the old ice bath, or by creating a new ice bath.Or,
ammonium
nitrate could be added to the old ice bath, since it becomes cold when it is
put in water. Continue stirring the mixture, keeping the temperature below
zero degrees
centigrade for at least twenty minutes
4) Pour the mixture into a liter of crushed ice.Shake
and stir the mixture,
and allow it to melt.Once it has melted, filter out the crystals, and
5) Place the crystals into one half a liter of boiling
distilled water.Filter
the crystals, and test them with the blue litmus paper. Repeat steps 4
and 5
until the litmus paper remains blue.This will make the crystals more stable
and
safe.
6) Store the crystals wet until ready for use. Allow them to dry completely
using
them. R.D.X. is not stable enough to use alone as an explosive.
7) Composition C-1 can be made
by mixing 88.3% R.D.X. (by weight) with 11.1%
mineral oil, and 0.6% lecithin. Kneed these
material together in a plastic
bag. This is a good way to desensitize the explosive.
H.M.X. is a mixture of T.N.T. and R.D.X.; the ratio is 50/50, by weight.
it is not as
sensitive, and is almost as powerful as straight R.D.X.
9) By adding ammonium nitrate to the
crystals of R.D.X. after step 5, it should
be possible to desensitize the R.D.X. and increase
its power, since ammonium
nitrate is very insensitive and powerful. Sodium or potassium
nitrate could
also be added; a small quantity is sufficient to stabilize the R.D.X.
10)R.D.X. detonates at a rate of 8550 meters/second when it is compressed to a
density of 1.55
g/cubic cm.
COMPOSITION C-2 AND C-3
———————–
These are highly undesirable because of certain trait each has and they
don’t produce as much
power as ‘C’ and ‘C-4′ compounds.
It is not recommended you make these two types
of plastique, this part
was written for imformatative purposes only.
Composition
‘C-2′ is harder to make than ‘C-4′ and is TOXIC TO HANDLE.
It is also unstable in storage and
is poor choice for home explosive
manufacture. It also has a lower detonation velocity than
either ‘C-4′ or
‘C-3′.
It is manufactured in a steam jacketed (heated) melting
kettle using the
same procedure used in incorperation of ‘C-3′. Its composition is as
follows:
R.D.X………………. 80%
Mononitrotolulene……. 5%
Dinitrotolulene……… 5%
T.N.T. guncotton…….. 5%
Dimethylformide……… 5%
(see below for rest of recipe)
‘C-3′ was developed to eliminate the
undesirable aspects of ‘C-2′.
It was standardized and adopted by the military as following
composition:
R.D.X……………. 77%
Mononitrotolulene…. 16%
Dinitrotolulene…… 5%
Tetryl…………… 1%
T.N.T. guncotton….. 1%
‘C-3′ is manufactured by mixing the plastisizing agent in a steam
jacketed melting kettle
equipped with a mechanical stirring attachment.
The kettle is heated to 90-100 degrees celcius
and the stirrer is
activated. Water wet R.D.X. is added to the plastisizing agent and the
been driven
off. Remove the heat source but continue to stir the mixture
until it has cooled to room
temperature.
This explosive is as sensitive to impact as is T.N.T. Storage at 65
degrees celcius for four months at a relative humidity of 95% does not
impair it’s explosive
properties.
‘C-3′ is 133% as good as an explosive as T.N.T. The major drawback of
‘C-3′ is its volatility which causes it to lose 1.2% of its weight although
the explosives
detonation properties are not affected.
Water does not affect explosives preformance.
Thus it is very good for
under-water demolition uses and would be a good choice for such an
When stored at 77 degrees celcius considerable extrudation takes
place.
It will become hard at -29 degrees celcius and is hard to detonate at this
temperature.
While this explosive is not unduely toxic, it should be handled with
care as it contains aryl-nitro compounds which are absorbed through the
skin.
It will reliably take detonation from a #6 blasting cap but the use of a
booster is
always suggested. This explosive has a great blast effect and
was avaliable in standard
demolition blocks. Its detonation velocity is
approximately 7700 MPS.
GELATIN DYNAMITE
—————-
Below are five different ways to make a very
common explosive. Dynamite.
1) Nitro…………………… 12%
Guncotten……………….. .5%
Amonium nitrate………….. 87.5%
2)
Nitro…………………… 88%
Potassium nitrate………… 5%
Tetryl………………….. 7%
3) Nitro…………………… 24%
Guncotten……………….. 1%
Amonium nitrate………….. 75%
4)
Nitro…………………… 75%
Guncotten……………….. 5%
Potassium
nitrate………… 15%
Wood meal……………….. 5%
5)
Nitro…………………… 80%
Ethalyne glycol dinitrate…. 20%
After
making this stuff, pack it in a cardboard tube and expoxy each end.
But be careful for it
might be a little unstable because of the
nitroglycerine (nitro). Before it is totally dry
stick a good fuse in one
of the ends. Light, Throw, and run as if your life depended on it!
Which
in a way it does.
PEROXYACETONE
————-
Peroxyacetone is VERY flamable & has been reported to be shock sensitive.
Materials:
4ml of Acetone
4ml of 30% Hydrogen Peroxide
4 of drops conc.
hydrochloric acid
150mm test tube
Add 4ml acetone and 4ml hydrogen peroxide to
the test tube. Then add 4
drops concentrated hydrochloric acid. In 10-20 minutes a white solid
should
begin to appear. If no change is observed, warm the test tube in a water
bath at
40 Celsius. Allow the reaction to continue for two hours. Swirl the
slurry and filter it.
Leave out on filter paper to dry for at least two
hours. To ignite, light a candle tied to a
meter stick and light it (while
staying at LEAST a meter away).
CELLULOSE NITRATE
(GUNCOTTON)
—————————–
Commonly known as Smokeless powder,
Nitrocellulose is exactly that it
does not give off smoke when it burns.
Materials:
70ml of concentrated sulfuric acid
30ml of concentrated nitric acid
250ml of sodium bicarbonate
250ml beaker
ice bath
tongs
paper towels
Place 250ml beaker in the ice bath, add 70ml sulfuric acid, 30
ml nitric
acid. Divide cotton into .7g pieces. With tongs, immerse each piece in the
acid solution for 1 minute. Next, rinse each piece in 3 successive baths of
500ml water. Use
fresh water for each piece. Then immerse in 250ml sodium
bicarbonate. If it bubbles, rinse in
water once more until no bubbling
occurs. Squeeze dry and spread on paper towels to dry
overnight.
NITROGEN TRIIODIDE
——————
This is very
shock sensitive when it comes to being agitated, moved,
dropped, touched, breathed on… etc.
For one thing I hope you don’t do
any of those. This has a high explosive value to it. It can
move a lot of
mass with just a little compound. I have heard so many different ways to
make this, and this is the best one. I think.
Take a medium glass and fill it up with
ammonium hydroxide (household
ammonia). Take some iodine crystals and pour about a fourth of
the glass
full. Wait about 30 minutes to an hour then pour off the liquid
remaining.
Now, what you have in the glass it called nitrogen tri-iodide,
which is very sensitive to
touch. But, it is perfectly save when it is
wet. Thats why you do not let it dry until you
want to use it. To
detonate it just pour some of the wet stuff on an object and wait till
pack a wallop!
NITROGLYCERIN
————-
Nitroglycerin is a very high
explosive. It is used all around the
world to do many different types of jobs. To make nitro
here is what you
have to do:
By weight, one part of glycerin is nitrated with 6
parts of mixed acid.
The mixed acid is composed of 40% nitric and 60% sulfuric acid. The
sulfuric acid is slowly added to the nitric acid with constant stirring.
Never mix them the
other way round for they will splatter. Each part of
glycerin will yield 2.3 parts of
nitroglycerin. The temperature when
adding the glycerin to the acids should never go above 25
degrees
centigrade. If it does or if red fumes appear, the whole mess should be
dumped
into cold water fast. Do not take this as an encouragement to make
nitroglycerin. It is a
dangerous procedure to mix all these types of acids
together and can easily be lost control
of.
MAKING SULFURIC ACID
——————–
No, your not
really MAKING sulfuric acid, you are just making it more
concentrated. All you need to do is
to take a old car battery and dump all
of the acid into a GLASS bowl that can be set on a
stove. Do not use metal
for unwanted occurances could come about. Just take the old acid and
boil
it until you see white fumes come out. When you do immediately turn off
the heat
and let it cool. One thing, DO NOT use a gas stove. Use an
electric hot plate & make it
outside because the fumes are very poisonous.
T.N.T (Trinitrotoulene)
————————–
Mix 170 parts toulene with 100 parts acid. The acid being
composed of:
2 parts 70% nitric acid and 3 parts 100% sulfuric acid. Mix below 30
degrees. Set this for 30 minutes and let seperate. Take the mononitro-
toluene and mix with
100 parts of it with 215 parts of acid. This acid
being composed of: 1 part pure nitric acid
and 2 parts pure sulfuric acid.
Keep the temperature at 60 -70 degrees while they are slowly
mixed. Raise
temperature to 90 – 100 degrees and stir for 30 minutes.
The
dinitrotoulene is seperated and mixed with 100 parts of this with
225 parts of 20% oleum,
which is 100% sulfuric acid with 20% extra
dissolved sulfur trioxide, and 64 parts nitric
acid. Heat at 95 degrees
for 60 minutes and then at 120 degrees for 90 minutes. Seperate the
trini-
trotoluene and slosh it around in hotwater. Purify the powder by soaking
it in
benzene.
MERCURY FUMLMINATE
——————
Mix 2 parts of
Nitric Acid with 2 part alcohol (any kind) and 1 part
mercury. This is very shock sensitive
explosive. Be careful, Nitric Acid
is an unstable acid. It will react to agitation.
MERCURY FUMLMINATE II
———————
Mercury fulminate is
perhaps the oldest known initiating compound. It can be detonated by either heat or shock. Even the
action of dropping a crystal of fulminate causes it to explode. A person making this material would
us the following procedure:
MATERIALS
Mercury (5g)
Concentrated Nitric Acid (35
mL)
Ethyl Alcohol (30 mL)
Distilled Water
100 mL Beaker (2)
Adjustable
heat source
Blue litmus paper
Funnel and Filter Paper
In one beaker, mix 5g
mercury with 35 mL of concentrated nitric acid using the glass rod. Slowly heat the mixture until
the mercury is disolved, which is when the solution turns green and boils. Place 30 mL of ethyl
alcohol into the second beaker and slowly and carefully add all the contents of the first beaker to
it. Red and/or brown fumes should appear. These fumes are toxic and flammable. After thrity or forty
minutes, the fumes should turn white, showing that the reaction is near complete. Carefully filter
the crystals of mercury fulminate from the liquid solution. Dispose of the solution in a safe place.
It is corrosive and toxic. Wash the crystals several times in distilled water to remove as much
excess acid as possible. Test the crystals with the litmus paper until they are neutral. This will
be when the litmus paper stays blue when it touches the crystals. Allow the crystals to dry and
store them in a safe place, far from explosive or flammable material.
MERCURY
FUMLMINATE II
———————
MERCURY FULMINATE II
Mercury
fulminate is perhaps one of the oldest known initiating
compounds. It can be detonated by
either heat or shock, which would make it of
infinite value to a terrorist. Even the action of
dropping a crystal of the
fulminate causes it to explode. A person making this material would
probably
use the following procedure:
MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
———
———
5 g mercury glass stirring rod funnel and filter paper
35 ml
concentrated 100 ml beaker (2)
nitric acid
ethyl alcohol (30 ml) adjustable heat
source
distilled water blue litmus paper
funnel and filter paper
mercury fulminate.
Methyl alcohol may prevent mercury fulminate from forming.
Mercury thermometers are becoming a
rarity, unfortunately. They may be
hard to find in most stores as they have been superseded by
alcohol and other
less toxic fillings. Mercury is also used in mercury switches, which are
be kept in
the thermometer or mercury switch until used. It gives off mercury
vapors which will cause
brain damage if inhaled. For this reason, it is a
good idea not to spill mercury, and to
always use it outdoors. Also, do not
get it in an open cut; rubber gloves will help prevent
this.
1) In one beaker, mix 5 g of mercury with 35 ml of concentrated nitric acid,
2) Slowly heat the mixture until the mercury is dissolved, which is
when the
solution turns green and boils.
3) Place 30 ml of ethyl alcohol into the second
beaker, and slowly and
carefully add all of the contents of the first beaker to it. Red
and/or
brown fumes should appear. These fumes are toxic and flammable.
4) After thirty
to forty minutes, the fumes should turn white, indicating that
the reaction is near
completion. After ten more minutes, add 30 ml of the
distilled water to the solution.
5)
Carefully filter out the crystals of mercury fulminate from the liquid
solution. Dispose of
the solution in a safe place, as it is corrosive and
toxic.
6) Wash the crystals several
times in distilled water to remove as much excess
acid as possible. Test the crystals with the
litmus paper until they are
neutral. This will be when the litmus paper stays blue when it
touches
the wet crystals
7) Allow the crystals to dry, and store them in a safe place,
far away from
any explosive or flammable material.
This procedure can also be
done by volume, if the available mercury
cannot be weighed. Simply use 10 volumes of nitric
acid and 10 volumes of
ethanol to every one volume of mercury.
M-80’s
————
MATERIALS:
1 part powdered sulfur
1 part powdered potassium
2 parts powdered perchlorate
cardboard tube
glue
fuse
Mix the
powdered chemicals together. Note: Do not substitue potassium chlorate for potassium perchlorate.
Potassium chlorate will explode when mixed with sulfur. Seal he bottom of the cardboard tube with
glue. Pour the powdered mixture into the cardboard tube. Glue the top of the tube hut and insert the
fuse while the glue is still wet. Light the fuse and throw.
Nitrogen Trichloride
——————–
Nitrogen trichloride, also klnown as chloride of azode, is an oily
yellow liquid. It explodes violently when heated above 60 degrees celsius, or when it comes into
contact with an open flame or spark. It is simple to produce.
MATERIALS:
Ammonium
nitrate (5 teaspoons)
Hydrochloric acid
Potassium permanganate
Beakers (2)
Water
Eyedropped
Tape
In a beaker diossolve
about 5 teaspoons of ammonium nitrate into water. Do not put so much ammonium nitrate into the
solution that some of it remains undissolved in the bottom of the beaker.
Collect a quanitty
of chlorine gas in a second beaker by mixing hydrochloric acid with potassium poermanganate in a
alrge flask with a stopper and glass pipe.
Place the beaker containing the chlorine gas
upside down on top of the beaker containing the ammonium nitrate solution, and tape the beakers
together. Gently heat the bottom beaker. When this is done, oily yellow droplets will begin to form
on the surface of the solution, and sink down to the bottom. At this time, remove the heat source
immediately.
Alternatively, the chlorine can be bubbled through the ammonium gas solution,
rather than collecting gas in a beaker, but this requires timing and a stand to hold the beaker and
test tube.
The chlorine gas can also be mized with anhydrous ammonia gas, by gently heating a
flask filled with clear household ammonia. Place the glass tubes from the chlorine-generating flask
and the tube from the ammonium gathering flask in another flask the conatins water.
Collect
the yellow droplets with an eyedropper and use them immediately, since nitrogen trichloride
dissolves in 24 hours.
Crater Makers
————-
Crater Makers
are just what they sound like, they make big craters where ever you put them. These are pretty
simple to make if you have a hobby store around, or even if you don’t you should be able to find the
parts. Get these things: 1 CO2 Cartridge 2 D-size estes rocket engines 1 Funnel 1 Nail 1 Solar
Igniter 1 Quick Drying Glue 7 Meters of paired wire (speaker wire works good) 1 6, 9 or 12 Volt
Battery 1) Okay, first you’ll need to empty the CO2 cartridge. If you have a CO2 BB gun, then you’re
in lick cause you probably already have a bunch of empty cartridges. If not, then jab the nail in
the top of the CO2 and let the CO2 leak out, just be carefull. 2) Make the hole bigger by jamming
the nail in the top. Don’t make the hold too bug cause it’ll act more like a rocket than a bomb if
it is. 3) Now cut open the rocket engines. You’ll see a clump of clay which can be tossed out and a
clump off powder. That’s the part you want. Grind it up using a hammer or something. If you have
commercial gun powder, you can use that instead of grinding up the rockets. 4) Take the funnel and
put it in the top of the CO2 cartridge and pour all the powder that will fit into it. When you think
it’s full, tap it on the ground to get it to sink to the bottom and continue filling. 5) Cut the
paper safety on the solar igniter and straighten the wires. Pour some glue on it, just don’t get any
on the head. Leave it to dry for a few minutes. 6) Put the igniter in the crater maker with the two
wires sticking out. Glue the wires to the CO2 cartridge. Now go outside (not in your house moron)
and find someplace where you want to detonate this thing. Connect the wire (speaker wire) to the
igniter. Go FAR FAR AWAY and connect the other end of the wires to the battery. Watch it BLOW!
Disclaimer: Don’t actually do this because it could kill you! This file was meant for educational
use only and none of the steps in this file should be followed! I am not responsible if you get
killed or kill someone with this! This file passed through DYNOMITE BBS (519)256-2428, the Official
BBS of Master Mayhem!
Blasting Gel-ignite
——————-
Disclaimer:
This stuff is DANGEROUS!!! This file is for information purposes only and is not to be thought of as
an endorsement for the making of this blasting gelignite. If you do make it and blow your face
(head, arms, legs, feet, hands, etc.) off you deserve it because this stuff is just downright
dangerous!! (I have a friend who had some blow up in his face and he has nice third degree burns all
over his face which means fun stuff like skin grafts, etc.)
The Best Blasting Gelignite.. To
try and tell you about the potency and danger of this stuff, I want you to know that one time some
friends of mine and I (Disk Slasher, Romper Stomper) were very careful and made some of this stuff.
After it was made, we were scared as shit of it and carried it on a ten foot pole. (literally!) Near
to my house there is a club that has a Coke machine outside. So we went over there at about 3 in the
morning and stuck this stuff all over the Coke Machine and set it off. The whole Coke Machine damn
near split in two (well anyway the front door was blown off) and the Cokes and money came spilling
out We helped ourselves to both and got the hell out of there which was good because the police and
fire department were there in about 15 minutes because all the people around that the blast had
waken up had called them because they thought there was a fire or something. So if you make this
stuff (Which we don’t endorse you doing) BE CAREFUL!!!!!!
The Recipe:
Note:
None of these items are too hard to get but you damn well better not think that this stuff is not
powerful because of that. if you think that, you had better get prepared to lose part of your body.
Further Note: A step marked with a star ‘*’ should be done behind a blast shield of some
kind. We used a big sheet of plexiglass.
Stuff you need
1) 50 parts water
2) 20
parts sugar (provides oxygen)
3) 1 part baking soda
4) 5 parts Corn Flakes (I’m not
kidding, this is VITAL as a stabilizing agent)
5) 30 parts Charcoal (Very finely ground
Fishtank charcoal- No Barbeque charcoal)
6) 10 parts Sulphur (You can sometimes get this at
grocery stores [especially Kroger] in the drug section)
7) 30 parts Saltpetre (You can also
get this at grocery stores sometimes. Kroger is the only one I know of but ther might be others. get
it in the drug section.)
A Jar of Vaseline
The Actions…
1) Get a deep
metal pan to cook over the stove on and put the water in it. Stir in the sugar until it all
dissolves. if you can’t get all of the sugar to dissolve, add more water until all of the sugar has
dissolved. Now stir in the baking soda until it dissolves. if you can’t get all of the baking soda
to dissolve, don’t worry about it, just leave it.
2) Heat the pan over a medium flame (You
don’t need to stir) until it begins to boil. Now stir in the corn flakes until they are all in water
and the whole thing begins to look like hot breakfast cereal. let the mixture sit on the burner
unt
Making Sodium or Potassium Chlorate
———————————–
Making Sodium or Potassium Chlorate
Ingredients:
* salt water (ocean water, or
just tap water with salt)
* 2 carbon or lead rods (try hardware or surplus stores)
*
sulfuric acid (I’ll bet other acids will work, though, or maybe even _no_ acid)
* DC power
supply (motor vehicle alternator, perhaps)
* glass jar
* heavy cloth
* big pan
or tray
* wires
Procedure:
* Put the salt water in the jar
* Add the
acid to the water; stir
* Attach the wires to the DC power supply
* Attach the other
ends of the wires to the carbon rods
* Put the rods in the water, several inches apart
* Let the power supply run for about 6hours (doesn’t have to be continuous)
* Shut off the
power supply; filter the water through the cloth into the
* Let the liquid in the tray
evaporate; sodium chlorate crystals will form in the tray
BE CAREFUL! The sodium chlorate is
sensitive to spark and flame. Instead of ordinary table salt (NaCl, or sodium chloride) in the salt
water, you can substitute No-Salt (KCl, or potassium chloride); this will result in potassium
chlorate, which is more powerful, but also more sensitive. BE CAREFUL! I’m even willing to gamble
you might be able to do it without the carbon rods, if you can’t get those. Again, I haven’t done it
myself, but the Army says it works.
Chlorinating Compound (H.T.H.)
—————————–
This explosive is a chlorate explosive from bleach.This
method of production of potassium or sodium chlorate is easier and
yields a more pure
product than does the plastique explosive from
bleach process.In this reaction the H.T.H.
(calcium hypo-chlorate
CaC10) is mixed with water and heated with either sodium chlorate
The latter of these salts
is the salt of choice due to the easy
crystallization of the potassium chlorate.This mixture
will need
to be boiled to ensure complete reaction of the ingredients.
Obtain some
H.T.H. swimming pool chlorination compound or
equivalent (usually 65% calcium
hypochlorite).As with the bleach
is also a dissociation reaction.In a large pyrex glass or
enameled steel container place 1200 g H.T.H. and 220 g potassium
chloride or 159 g
sodium chloride.Add enough boiling water to
dissolve the powder and boil this solution.A
chalky substance
(calcium chloride) will be formed.When the formation of this
chalky
substance is no longer formed the solution is filtered while
boiling hot.If potassium
chloride was used, potassium chlorate
will be formed.This potassium chlorate will drop out or
crystalize as the clear liquid left after filtering cools.These
crystals are filtered
out when the solution reaches room
temperature.If the sodium chloride salt was used this
clear
filtrate (clear liquid after filtration) will need to have all
water
evaporated.This will leave crystals which should be saved.
These crystals should be heated in
a slightly warm oven in a
pyrex dish to drive off all traces of water (40-75 degree C).
If the sodium chloride salt is
used in the initial step the
crystallization is much more time consuming.The potassium
chloride is the salt to use as the resulting product will
crystalize out of the solution as
it cools.The powdered and
completely dry chlorate crystals are kneaded together with vaseline
in a plastique bowl.ALL CHLORATE BASED EXPLOSIVES ARE SENSITIVE
TO FRICTION, AND
SHOCK, AND THESE BETTER BE AVOIDED.If sodium
chloride is used in this explosive, it will have
a tendency to cake
and has a slightly lower detonation velocity.This explosive is
composed of the following:
potassium or sodium chlorate 90%
vaseline 10%
The detonation velocity can be raised to a slight extent by
the addition of 2-3%
aluminum powder substituted for 2-3% of the
vaseline.The addition of this aluminum will give
this explosive
a bright flash if set off at night which will ruin night vision for
a
short while.The detonation velocity of this explosive is
approximately 3200 m/sec for the
potassium salt and 2900 m/sec for
the sodium salt based explosive.
Plastique
Explosive From Table Salt
———————————–
This explosive is
perhaps the most easily manufactured of the
chlorate based explosives.Sodium chlorate is the
product because
rock salt is the major starting ingredient.This process would
work
equally as well if potassium chloride were used instead of the
sodium chloride (rock
salt).The sodium chlorate is the salt I
will cover due to the relatively simple acquisition
of the main
ingredient.The resulting explosive made from this process would
serve as a
good cheap blasting explosive and will compare favorably
with 30% straight dynamite in power
and blasting efficiency.This
explosive can be considered the same as 30% straight dynamite in
all charge computation.These explosives and similar compositions
were used to some
extent in WWI by European forces engaged in that
conflict.It was used as a grenade and land
mine filler.It’s
only drawback is it’s hygroscopic nature (tendency to absorb
atmospheric moisture).These explosives also have a relatively
critical loading density.They
should be used at a loading density
of 1.3 g/cc.If this density is not maintained, unreliable
or
incomplete detonation will take place.These short comings are
easily over come by
coating the finished explosive products with
molten wax and loading this explosive to the
proper density.This
explosive is not good for shaped charge use due to it’s low
detonation rate (2900 m/sec).The major part of the manufacture of
this explosive from rock
salt is the cell reaction where D.C.
current changes the sodium chloride to chlorate by
adding oxygen by
electrolysis of a saturated brine solution.The reaction takes
place
as follows:
NaCl + 3H2O —-> NaClO3 + 3H2
In this reaction the
sodium chloride (NaCl) takes the waters’
oxygen and releases its hydrogen as a gas.This
explosive gas must
be vented away as sparks or open flame may very well cause a
tremendous explosion.This type of process or reaction is called
a ‘cell’ reaction.The cell
should be constructed of concrete or
stainless steel.I won’t give any definite sizes on the
cell’s
construction because the size is relative to the power source.
This cell would
have to be large enough to allow the brine to
circulate throughout the cell to insure as
uniform a temperature as
possible.
The speed of the reaction depends on two
variables.Current
density is a very important factor in the speed of the reaction.
The
advantages of high current densities are a faster and more
efficient reaction.The
disadvantages are that cooling is needed
to carry away excess heat and the more powerful
power sources are
very expensive.For small operations, a battery charger can be
used
(automotive).This is the example I will use to explain the
cell’s setup and operation (10 amp
12 volt).The current density
at the anode (+) and cathode (-) are critical.This density
should
be 50 amps per square foot at the cathode and 30 amps per square
foot at the
anode.For a 10 amp battery charger power source this
would figure out to be 5 5/16" by 5
5/16" for the cathode.The
anode would be 6 15/16" by 6 5/16".The anode is made
of graphite
or pressed charcoal and the cathode is made of steel plate (1/4").
These would need to be spaced relatively close together.This
spacing is done with some type
of nonconducting material such as
glass rods.This spacing can be used to control the
temperature to
some extent.The closer together they are, the higher the
temperature.These can be placed either horizontally or vertically
although vertical placement
of the anode and cathode would probably
be the ideal set up as it would allow the hydrogen to
escape more
readily.The anode would be placed at the bottom if placed
horizontally in
the cell so that the chlorine released could
readily mix with the sodium hydroxide formed at
the cathode above
it.As the current passes through, the cell chlorine is released
at
the anode and mixes with the sodium hydroxide formed at the
cathode.Hydrogen is released at
the cathode which should bubble
out of the brine.This gas is explosive when mixed with air
and
proper precautions should be taken.PROPER VENTILATION MUST BE
USED WITH THIS
OPERATION TO AVOID EXPLOSION.
Temperature control is left up to the builder of the cell.
during the reaction.This
can be done by the circulation of water
though the cell in pipes.But the easiest way would be
to get an
adjustable thermostatic switch adjusted to shut the power source
off until
the cell cools off.This temperature range could be from
59 degree shut off to a 53 degree
start up.An hour meter would be
used on the power source to measure the amount of time the
current
passes through the cell.If the water cooling coil design appeals
to the
manufacturer and an easily obtained cheap source of cool or
cold water is available,this
would be the quickest design to use.
Again a thermostatic type arrangement would be used to
meter the
cold cooling water through the cell.The cooling coils would best
be made of
stainless steel to overcome the corrosiveness of the
salts although this is not entirely
necessary.A thermostatic
valve would be set to open when the brine electrolyte was heated
most efficient method
and the waste heat could be used relatively
easily.
To run the cell, after the cell
has been constructed and the
concrete has been sealed and has set and cured for several
weeks,
is very simple.First to seal the concrete I suggest Cactus
Paint’s C P 200
series, two component epoxy paint, or an equivalent
product.To fill the cell place 454 G
sodium chloride in the cell
(rock salt is excellent here).Place four liters of distilled
anode and the cathode
completely with room to spare.Remember that
some of the water will be used in the
reaction.Thirty three grams
of muriatic acid (hydrochloric), which should be available at
the liquid in the cell.Be
careful when handling ANY acid!!!Then
seven grams of sodium dichromate and nine grams of
barium chloride
is added.The cell is then ready to run if the plates are
connected to
their respective cables.These cables are best made
of stainless steel (the most corrosion
resistant available).The
power supply is then hooked up and the cell is in operation.The
Any time the cell runs
it will be making hydrogen gas.THIS GAS IS
EXPLOSIVE WHEN MIXED WITH AIR AND ALL SPARKS,
FLAME, AND ANY SOURCE
OF IGNITION SHOULD BE KEPT WELL AWAY FROM THE CELL AND THIS CELL
SHOULD ONLY BE RUN WITH VERY GOOD VENTILATION.The steel plate
cathode should be hooked to the
negative side of the power source
and the anode hooked to the positive side.Again these are
hooked
to the power supply via stainless steel cables.This cell is then
run at the
proper temperature until 1800 amp hours pass through
(amount per pound of sodium chloride)
the electrolyte.The liquid
in the cell is then removed and placed in an enameled steel
container and boiled until crystals form on liquid.It is cooled
and filtered, the crystals
collected being saved.This is done
twice and the remaining liquid saved for the next cell
run.The
process will become easier as each run is made.It is a good idea
to keep
records on yields and varying methods to find out exactly
the best process and yield.To
purify these crystals place 200
grams in 100 ml distilled water.Boil the solution until
crystals
are seen on the surface.Let cool and filter as before.Save this
liquid for
the next cell run.These purified crystals are placed
in a pyrex dish and placed in the oven
at 50 degrees C for two
hours to drive off all remaining water.
The explosive is ready
to be made.The crystals or sodium
chlorate is ground to a powder of face powder
consistency.Ninety
grams of this sodium chlorate are kneaded with 10 grams of vaseline
until a uniform mixture is obtained.This explosive is sensitive
to shock, friction, and
heat.These should be avoided at all cost.
This explosive works best at a loading density of
1.3-1.4 G/cc.If
this explosive is not used at this density the detonation velocity
will be low and detonation will be incomplete.To load to a known
density measure the volume
of the container in which the explosive
is to be loaded.This can be done by pouring water out
of a
graduated cylinder until the container is filled.The total number
of ml will
equal the cc’s of the container.Multiply this number
times 1.3 and load that much explosive
(in grams of course) into
the container after the container has been dried of all water.
(plastique explosive from
bleach, plastique explosive from H.T.H.).
This is a good explosive that is cheap and
relatively powerful.
Gelatine From Anti-Freeze (diethelene glycol)
———————————————
This explosive is almost the same as the
nitro-gelatin formula
except it is supple and pliable between -10 and -20 degrees C.
Antifreeze is easier to obtain than glycerin and is usually
cheaper.It needs to be freed of
water before the manufacture and
this can be done by treating it with calcium chloride to the
antifreeze and checking with a hydrometer and continue to add
calcium chloride until
the proper reading is obtained.The
antifreeze is then filtered to remove the calcium chloride
from the
liquid.This explosive is superior to the nitro-gelatin formula in
that it is
easier to implement the IMR smokeless powder into the
explosive and that the 50/50 ether
ethyl alcohol can be done away
with.It is superior in that the formation of the precipitate
is
done very rapidly by the nitroethelene glycol.It’s detonation
properties are
practically the same as the nitro-gelatin formula.
Like the nitro-gelatin formula, it is
highly flammable and if
caught on fire the chances are good that the flame will progress to
detonation.In this explosive, the addition of 1% sodium carbonate
is a good idea to
reduce the chance of residual acid being present
in the final explosive.The following is a
slightly different
formula than the nitro-gelatin one:
Nitro-glycol 75%
Guncotton (IMR smokeless) 6%
Potassium nitrate 14%
Flour (as used in baking) 5%
In this process the 50/50 step is omitted.Mix the potassium
nitrate with the
nitroglycol.Remember that this nitroglycol is
just as sensitive to shock as is
nitroglycerin.The next step is
to mix in the flour and sodium carbonate.Mix these by kneading
with gloved hands until the mixture is uniform.This kneading
should be done gently and
slowly.The mixture should be uniform
when the IMR smokeless powder is added.Again this is
kneaded to
uniformity.Use this explosive as soon as possible.If it must be
stored,
store in a cool dry place (0-10 degrees C).This explosive
should detonate at 7600-7800
m/sec.These last two explosives are
very powerful and should be sensitive to a #6 blasting
cap or
equivalent.These explosives are dangerous and should not be made
unless the
manufacturer has had experience with this type compound.
The foolish and ignorant may as well
forget these explosives as
they won’t live to get to use them. Don’t get me wrong, these
for safety.Millions of
tons of nitroglycerin have been made and
used to manufacture dynamite and explosives of this
nature with
very few mishaps.Nitroglycerin and nitroglycol will kill and
their main
victims are the stupid and foolhardy.This explosive
compound is not to be taken lightly.If
there are any doubts,
DON’T!!!
Acetone Peroxide
—————-
5300 M/sec @ 1.18 G/cc
FRICTION
SENSITIVITY – Very sensitive. One of the more sensitive in this
book.
BEHAVIOR TO
FLAME – Burns violently and sometimes detonates even in small
quantities.
Acetone
peroxide is a powerful primary explosive. It, as with other
explosive peroxides, seems to be
very volatile. In standing 10 days at room
temperature, 50% of the sample will completely
volatilize. It is a powerful,
brisant explosive. It’s vaporizable nature makes it a explosive
that would
have to be used immediately after manufacture. However, this explosive is
compatible with metals and will not cause their corrosion and the
subsequent dangers involved.
It is also compatible with picric acid,
R.D.X., T.N.T., P.E.T.N., Tetryl, potassium chlorate
and antimony sulfide.
It is highly friction sensitive and extreme care should be taken
to
avoid this. Acetone peroxide is one of the most sensitive explosive known
to man.
Great care would be needed to handle this explosive carefully. It
is a powerful primary base
charge in the cap. Also mixtures of R.D.X. and
Picric acid with acetone peroxide are reported
to be used between primary
explosive and the base charge.
CAUTION: Acetone
peroxide one of the most sensitive explosive known to man.
this composition is dangerous and
would need to be handled by someone with
a lot of common sense. Mixtures such as picric
acid/acetone peroxide (40/60)
or similar mixtures with R.D.X. and P.E.T.N. will give
explosives greatly
increased resistance to impact without losing much initiation
performance.
Great care would be needed to ensure the safety of the manufacturer
due to the high sensitivity of the acetone peroxide. These dried crystals
would be ready to
load into detonators for immediate use as the storage
stability is not very good.
MANUFACTURE:
Acetone peroxide is formed when hydrogen peroxide 30% acts on
acetone. The introduction of dilute sulfuric acid causes the reaction to go
into completion.
Procedure is as follows. 50 ml acetone is placed in a one
pint jar or 500 ml beaker. To this
is added 30 ml hydrogen peroxide (30%).
This liquid is placed in an ice water bath and cooled
to 5 degrees
centigrade. To this cooled mixture is added 3 ml of sulfuric acid (20%).
This addition is done at 5 degrees centigrade and done in a dropwise
fashion. When the
temperature begins to rise (10 degrees C.), slow the
addition until the temperature falls
again. With the completion of the
addition stir the mixture. A flocculent precipitate will
form. This is
filtered out after the mixture stands for one hour. Wash the white product
three times with water (distilled preferably). Let the material filtered
out of the reaction
liquids and washed and dry this solid. By spreading out
the acetone peroxide this drying
process can be speeded up. These dry
crystals are now ready for loading into the caps as a
primary explosives.
Double Salts
————
DETONATION
VELOCITY-3600 M/sec. @ 3.96 G/cc
FRICTION SENSITIVITY – This primary explosive is on
the same order of
sensitivity as is lead azide.
BEHAVIOR TO FLAME – Burns
violently and sometimes detonates even in small
quantities.
These double salts
are a basic acetylide group primary explosive.
This explosive has good sensitivity, powder and
performance. It is readily
made from silver (coin), nitric acid and calcium carbide/ water
or
acetylene. This is an easy compound to make. What I found interesting is
the fact
that this primary is not photo active. Most silver salts are light
sensitive. This would be a
good choice due to the wide availability to the
main ingredients. DDNP, HMTD and mercury
fulminate, are better primary
explosives but this one has many possibilities. With this
primary explosive
suitable caps could be made and would be very usable and storage stable
as
some others in this publication could not.
MANUFACTURE
Dilute
10.1 ml of nitric acid (red fuming) with 6.75 ml of water.
If reagent or technical grade acid
is available (70% strength) this will
not need any water mixed with it to reduce the strength.
Simply use 17.5 ml
of this 70% nitric acid. Place a silver dime or equivalent amount of
silver
metal in the acid. It will dissolve leaving a green solution.
CAUTION:
Avoid the brown gas (nitrogen dioxide) produced when dissolving
the silver metal in the acid.
This gas is a deadly poison and the immediate
exposure to the gas and it s subsequent damage
will not show up for hours
or even days! This should be done with good ventilation!
completely dissolve.
Pour this green solution into a tall slender glass jar
such as an olive jar. Place this jar
with the green solution in it in a hot
water bath and heat. Crystals will form. The heating is
continued until
these crystals dissolve again. In another flask or even a "Coke"
bottle,
place ten teaspoons of calcium carbide into this flask with a cork with a
hose
passing through a hole in the cork. Place the other end of the hose in
the tall jar with the
solution in it. Remove the stopper from the flask or
bottle and add one teaspoon of water.
CAUTION: Acetylene gas is highly flammable and an explosion hazard. Keep
away from
heat and flame as much as possible.
The gas should begin generating. Add one more
teaspoon and place
the stopper back into the container. The acetylene gas generated by the
through the
solution in the tall glass. Bubble this gas through the
solution for 5-8 minutes. Brown vapor
will be given off by the liquid as is
absorbs acetylene and white flakes will begin to be
formed in the silver
solution. Remove the solution from the heat source and allow it to
cool.
Filter the liquid through a filter paper (paper towel, coffee filter) into
a glass
container. Green crystals will be caught on the filter paper. These
green crystals would then
be washed with 45 ml alcohol. The crystals will
change from green to white in color and the
methanol wash will turn green.
Place these white crystals on a paper towel and allow to air
dry.
CAUTION: Handle this dry explosive with great care. Do not scrape or handle
roughly. Keep away from flame or spark source or heat and store in a cool
dry place.
is good, which is very
important. A good choice of primary explosives.
Lead Picrate
————
DETONATION VELOCITY – 4400 M/sec.
SENSITIVITY – This primary is very sensitive
to shock friction and heat or
flame. This sensitivity is high and care should be used in
handling.
BEHAVIOR TO FLAME – Burns violently and sometimes detonates even in small
This is a good choice. The precursors to lead picrate and picric
acid, lead monoxide and methanol. PA can be used as the base charge in the
caps therefore
reducing problems and simplification of production. It is
not nearly as good a primary
explosive as H.M.T.D. or D.D.N.P. but will
work and is simple to make. Litharge, picric acid
and methanol is all that
is needed to make this one. This is a very dense heavy primary due to
the
lead in it’s makeup. So from a cap volume use it is in the same class as
all the
other primaries in this publication.
MANUFACTURE
In a shallow glass dish,
dissolve two grams of picric acid (see PA
section) in ten ml of methanol. All stirring should
be done with a teflon
or wooden stirrer. Slowly while stirring add two grams of litharge
(lead
monoxide, white lead litharge-plumbing supply stores) to the methanol/PA
solution.
CAUTION: At this point this is a primary explosive. Keep away from flame.
happens the
mixture will suddenly thicken. Stir the mixture occasionally to
stop any lumps from
forming.
CAUTION: Beware of drying material forming on the inside of the container.
Spread this lead picrate
in a flat shallow pan to dry. If possible dry the
mixture on a hot water bath for two hours.
This will ultimately give a
better product with more stability.
Nitrogen
Sulfide
—————-
FRICTION SENSITIVITY – Very sensitive to friction great
care would be
needed to produce this compound.
BEHAVIOR TO FLAME – Small
quantities (less than one gram) deflagrate with a
puff and larger sizes will detonate.
CHARGE WEIGHT – 2.0 Grams in 3/8 copper tubing only.
Nitrogen sulfide is a
dangerous compound to make. It is sensitive
to friction and heat. Mercury fulminate is much
safer to use from the
friction aspect. This compound is more powerful than mercury fulminate
but
with slightly less brisance. Storage stability is good for "straight"
nitrogen sulfide. In the proper mixture with potassium chlorate the primary
explosive is not
stable @50 degrees C. for long periods of time. Heat can
and will cause detonations. It is
however despite these problems, easily
prepared from common ingredients. This preparation is a
simple one, with a
variety of raw materials. As good a primary explosive as lead picrate.
The
recommended filler with this primary explosive is nitrogen sulfide 80% and
completely dry potassium chlorate 20%. This is mixed and 2 grams are loaded
over the charge
and pressed on top the base charge. Better primary
explosives can be had but this one is easy
and expedient.
MANUFACTURE
Place 100 grams of finely powdered sulfur
(brimstone: garden supply
store, pharmacy, industrial chemical supply) is placed in a tall
narrow
flask or narrow necked bottle equipped with a two hole stopper and placed
in a
frying pan filled with oil and heated until the sulfur melts (215
degrees C., 420 degrees F.).
In this place a hose from the chlorine gas
generator. This generator is a gallon jar with
either liquid laundry bleach
(5.25% Sodium hypochlorite aqueous solution) or 31% hydrochloric
(Muriatic
acid, swimming pool supply). to the bleach (total 1.2 gallons) is added in
small portions sodium bisulfite ("Saniflush": bathroom cleaners, sodium
acid
sulfite, swimming pool additive). This generation with the bleach/
bisulfite generator should
have the bleach split into three equal amounts
and reacted with the bisulfite one at a time.
The second and third. 4
gallon refill should be done only after the green gas is no longer
of the
gallonjug. The second or third fill are poured into the jug the
process repeated until all
three 2/5 gallon bleach solutions are reacted
and the chlorine bubbled through the molten
sulfur. To 255 grams
hydrochloric acid is added 53 grams manganese dioxide (black manganese
portions. This is
done in small additions until all the manganese dioxide
is dissolved and the chlorine has
stopped it’s bubbling.
CAUTION: Chlorine gas is toxic avoid contact and used with very
good
ventilation. Used as a war gas in WWI.
Immediately after the addition and
beginning chlorine generation
place a one hole stopper to which some stainless steel or
plastic (heat
resistant) tubing has been inserted in the hole. The other end of this hose
bottom of the now
molten sulfur. The other hole of the two hole stopper has
a hose inserted just through the
stopper. The end of this hose is placed
into a flask or narrow necked bottle cooled by a
salted ice bath. This
sulfur will begin to absorb the chlorine generated. This reaction
forming
sulfur dichloride. A total of 42 grams of chlorine need to be absorbed by
the
sulfur. As this chlorine is dissolved sulfur dichloride will begin to
form. Sulfur is very
soluble in sulfur chlorides and will begin to be
dissolved in the chloride already formed.
This sulfur chloride will
vaporize and collect in the bottle chilled by the salted ice bath.
This is
done until the temperature drops and begins to boil. Continue to pass the
chlorine gas through the liquid. After all the chlorine has gone through
the sulfur heat until
the sulfur liquid no longer boils. Heat for another
ten minutes and allow to cool. The last
flask should have caught most of
the sulfur dichloride liquid. Take the mixture off the heat
and allow to
cool. Dissolve 212 gram of this liquid in 1700 grams benzene (common
industrial solvent).
CAUTION: Sulfur dichloride (Sulfur chloride) is a pungent oily
liquid. All
contact should be avoided! All steps of this process should be carried out
with good ventilation. Benzene is a very dangerous liquid. Contact with the
skin, breathing of
the vapors are dangerous and should be avoided. Great
care should be used when handling this
known carcinogen. It is also highly
flammable.
Filter this solution through a
paper coffee filter. This filtering
should remove nearly all the sulfur. The remaining liquid
should have no
solids in it. Then ammonia gas generator is set up and ammonia gas is
bubbled through the solution. The ammonia generator (ammonium nitrate/lye)
is described in
TACC section of the primary explosive section of this book.
A dark brown powdery powder will
collect in the bottom as the ammonia
bubbles through the liquid. Keep bubbling the ammonia gas
through the
solution. Until this brown powder dissolves in the solution and a orange-
yellow color is observed. Flocculent ammonia chloride crystals are seen in
the liquid. Warm
the benzene until it boils. Filter immediately through a
filter with 200 grams fresh benzene.
Add this benzene wash to the
liquid just filtered (filtrate). Let this liquid evaprate until
a mushy
crystalline mass remains and filter. Let these crystals dry. These golden
yellow
to orange-red are nitrogen sulfide.
CAUTION: This explosive is friction, flame and
shock sensitive. Handle with
the greatest care.
This powder must be pressed into
the cap using the apparatus shown
in the cap manufacture section for proper performance and
moisture should
be avoided. Contamination with sulfur in mixtures with potassium chlorate
Silver Fulminate
—————-
FRICTION SENSITIVITY – Extremely friction sensitive! Should not be used if
other
primary explosives can be made.
BEHAVIOR TO FLAME – Single crystals explode violently.
Larger amounts than
given in the process below should not be made.
CHARGE WEIGHT
- 1.0 G. compound cap
Silver fulminate (SF) is an extremely dangerous compound.
Friction
flame and sometimes contact with the dried product will cause it’s
detonation.
It’s performance is fair and the acquisition of the raw
ingredients is simple. Never used due
to the extremely unstable nature of
SF. If other primary explosive options existed they would
be better choice
than this one. To use this primary explosive it must be mixed with tapioca
obtained due to
the abundance of silver (coins, powder, ingots). Small
batches of SF should be made with
protective barricades between the
operator and the reaction vessel. Again this explosive is
dangerous and
should be avoided if at all possible.
MANUFACTURE
Place 6 ml nitric acid (1.42 G/cc common technical grade acid or
"watered" down
stronger acid) in a 100 ml pyrex beaker containing 1.2 ml
water and heated to 95-100 degrees
F.. Place one gram of silver, (coins,
bars, powder) in this acid solution.
CAUTION: This addition should be done with excellent ventilation as the
nitrogen dioxide fumes
generated are very toxic even in small
quantities!
This will begin to bubble as
the silver is dissolved. This will form silver
nitrate in a very acid solution. When the
silver dissolves (gentle heating
may be necessary to get all the mercury to dissolve). In a
500 ml beaker
surrounded by an ice bath place 15 ml 95% + ethyl alcohol ("Everclear"
or
redistilled concentrate whiskey etc.) and add the silver/acid solution to
the liquid
not allowing the temperature to rise above 65 degrees C.
CAUTION: This addition will
cause the generation of poison gases and should
be done with good ventilation.
A
vigorous reaction will take place with this addition. Dense white
poisonous fumes are given
off. As time lapses, the density of these fumes
will diminish. The reaction will subside in
20-25 minutes. When the foaming
reaction ceases, pour this solution into 200 ml water. The
white crystals
are then allowed to settle and the clear liquid on top poured off. Add 0.25
crystals filtered
out through a paper towel or drip coffee filter. They are
then washed with 30 cc ethanol.
These crystals are then used in an area
away from sunlight.
CAUTION: This white
powder is extremely flame, friction and light
sensitive. Friction and impacts should be
avoided and the material should
be expected to explode at any time. Again this explosive is
dangerous even
for someone with much laboratory experience. This composition should be
avoided and it’s manufacture undertaken only as a last resort.
Nitroguanidine
————–
DETONATION VELOCITY – 5630 M/sec. @ 1.0 G/cc.
7650 M/sec. @ 1.5
G/cc.
FRICTION SENSITIVITY – Very insensitive
BEHAVIOR TO FLAME – Melts
with sublimation and decomposition.
Nitroguanidine is a powerful explosive. First made
from bat guano,
by extraction and formation of guanidine nitrate and subsequent treatment
This explosive is
similar in performance to picric acid and T.N.T.. While
not being quite as brisant as these
two explosives the ease of manufacture
and lack of friction sensitivity make nitroguanidine an
attractive choice
for a blasting cap base charge explosive. It is a cool explosive and does
gases upon
detonation. This base charge explosive, should be loaded in the
caps with the density not
exceeding 1.35 G./cc. Excess loading densities
will render the base charge undetonatable with
1.5 G. charges of H.M.T.D..
This explosive will work and work well and is very storage stable.
Larger
diameter cap containers (3/8" +) should be used to ensure propagation of
the
detonation through the entire cap. Given below is the manufacture
techniques for production of
nitroguanidine. This procedure will work well
but is rather lengthy and labor intensive.
MANUFACTURE
Obtain two clay flower pots with a small hole in their bottoms.
Fitted to one of these is
stainless steel tubing. A refractory made from "firebrick"
and fired by charcoal should
be built. The flower pots will need to fit into this refractory
and have ample room
around them to pack the charcoal. An air blower (e.g. hairdryer, vacuum
cleaner is
hooked up to blow air through the coal to generate the heat needed. In the
bottom
flower-pot, a stainless steel screen will be needed to keep from clogging the
stainless
steel tubing from the ammonia inlet tube. Place 200 grams of calcium carbonate
(Limestone, chalk) in the bottom flower pot, with the stainless tubing attached. Place
the
other flowerpot upside down directly on top of the bottom pot. Place this in the
refractory
furnace and place a pyrometer or high temperature thermometer into the
hole in the top clay
flower pot. Start the furnace and blow air through the burning
charcoal until the temperature
inside the pots reaches 700 degrees C.. At this time
begin to pass ammonia gas through the
stainless tubing into the lime inside. The
temperature should never go over 820 degrees C. as
the lime will decompose. The
ammonia generator the gas generator in the TACC section. The
amounts needed in the
generator are 170 G. ammonium nitrate fertilizer, 100 G. sodium
hydroxide and
adding 100 ml water to the mixture. This water addition would be done in
small
portions to ensure the absorption of the gas by the calcium carbonate. This gas needs
ceases to
generate from the generator deprive the charcoal of oxygen to extinguish the
flame. Let the
refractory furnace cool and remove the flowerpots from it. The black
material in the bottom is
calcium cyanamide.
Place 216 grams of urea in a stainless steel pan. Heat until it
CAUTION: This is
dangerous and extreme care should be used in this step.
This mixture could explode if allowed
to burn. Water should be
used if a fire does break out by immediate dilution and quenching
Keep the temperature of the melt at 120 degrees
centigrade. When
the addition of the ammonium nitrate is complete and the mixture is liquid
over a twenty
minute period. This mixtures temperature is held at 120
degrees C. for two hours and then
diluted with 720 ml water. This liquid is
heated to 95 degrees C. and then filtered through
several coffee filters or
a "fast" filter paper. The liquid thus obtained is allowed
to cool to 25
degrees C. and then the crystals formed are filtered out. The liquid is
reduced to 1/2 its volume by boiling. It is cooled and filtered and the
crystals obtained are
added to those from the first filtration. These
crystals are washed with 40 ml cold water.
They are then dried in a shallow
pyrex dish while heated in a hot oil bath at 110 degrees C.
for two hours.
These crystals are guanidine nitrate (90% purity).
Immerse a one
liter flask, containing 500 ml. concentrated sulfuric
acid, in cracked ice. This acid is
stirred until the temperature drops to
10 degrees C. or less. In small portions, add 400 grams
of dry guanidine
nitrate to the acid with stirring to keep the temperature below 11 degrees
into three
liters of cracked ice and water. Let this stand until the
nitroguanidine is completely
crystallized out of the liquid. Filter these
crystals out and dissolve in four liters of
boiling water (distilled if
possible). Allow to cool by standing overnight and filter the
crystals out.
Dry these crystals by heating gently in a container placed in a pan of
boiling water. This dried material is then ready to store in a plastic
container or to load
into finished caps.
M.M.A.N.(Monomethylamine nitrate)
——————————–
DETONATION VELOCITY – 6100 M/sec. @ 1.2 G/cc
6600 M/sec. @ 1.4 G / cc
FRICTION SENSITIVITY – Very insensitive. Similar to T.N.T..
BEHAVIOR TO FLAME – Burns if heated to 370-390 degrees C. and will burn
completely in 6-8 seconds.
M.M.A.N. is a powerful explosive with 112-120% the
power of T.N.T.
with a greater detonation rate. This explosive is not as sensitive as
others in this publication to primary explosive requiring 2 G. mercury
fulminate or 1.25 grams
of H.M.T.D. Methylamine is a basic building block
of modern chemistry. It is an intermediary
for hundreds of more common
chemicals. It is easily obtained or purchased cheaply. Nitric acid
does not
require highly concentrations with as low as 20% acid strength working
perfectly. This is a good feature as requirements for explosives made with
concentrated acids
take time to produce and cannot be produced as fast or
cheaply. This explosive is simple
enough that it would require little
experience and few setups in a lab. This explosive is very
hygroscopic. It
will absorb its weight in water at a relative humidity of 50% in 21 days.
quantities of
primary explosive as other base explosives. Both are
acceptable and the hygroscopic nature of
the salt can be controlled by
loading caps on "dry days" of low humidity. These caps
should also be
dipped into molten wax to ensure their "waterproofness". This
explosive is
best used in a cap made with 3/8" tubing because 5 grams of this
explosive
are required. This will give a detonator 3/8" x 2-3/4". This cap should
density that the
primary needs for maximum performance. Load this base
charge explosive to a density of 1.2
G/cc. Higher densities will cause the
explosive to become insensitive to the primary
explosive. This cap should
detonate most explosives and will be a great deal more powerful
than a #10
blasting cap.
MANUFACTURE – Place 250 ml of 33% methylamine aqueous
solution in a
stainless bowl or beaker. Add in four portions either 832 G. 70% nitric
acid, 971 G. 60% nitric acid or 583 G.100% nitric acid + 250 ml water. A
good deal of heat
will be generated by this neutralization. The solution
will boil due to the heat. Allow the
heat from the previous additions to
subside before the next addition is made. After the
additions have been
made check the solution with PH paper (e. mark brand) from your lab
supply
store. If the PH is above 7 add acid 1/4 teaspoon at a time until the PH
is
between 6 and 7. If when checked the PH is 6 or below then add
methylamine solution until the
PH rises to between 6 and 7. This liquid is
then put in a vacuum flask with a stopper. This
will be placed in a hot oil
bath (frying pan filled with good cooking oil). The oil bath
should be 75
degrees C. (167 degrees F.). The flask is hooked up to a vacuum source and
the vacuum applied. The vacuum will allow the waters removal in a much
quicker amount of time.
The vacuum source can be an aspirator type (cost
around $5.00). This is the ideal source of
vacuum. A gauge is placed in the
line and the vacuum drawn at first recorded. This vacuum will
remain the
same until the water is all evaporated. At this point the vacuum suddenly
will increase greatly. This signifies the end point. The crystals in the
flask are scraped out
in a dry (atmospheric humidity) room. This is placed
in a sealed container to keep moisture
our of the solutions. This is the
explosive. It could be toxic if eaten in large quantities
but at worst,
prolonged handling of this explosive will give only a rash. The only thing
to remember is to keep away from moisture and keep in a sealed container.
Load large 3/8"
diameter caps with 4-6 grams of MMAN as a base charge with
large charges of primary
explosives. Seal the caps immediately by dipping
in hot molten wax. These caps are powerful
and will take most of a forearm
off a foolish person.
PETN (Pentaerythrite
Tetranitrate)
———————————
DETONATION VELOCITY – 5830 M/sec.
@ 1.09 G/cc.
7490 M/sec. @ 1.51 G/cc.
8300 M/sec. @ 1.77 G/cc.
FRICTION
SENSITIVITY – Sensitive to friction between two hard surfaces
BEHAVIOR TO FLAME – Burns
quietly after melting with a slightly luminous
flame.
PETN is a powerful
explosive. It’s power is slightly greater than
R.D.X. and it is slightly more sensitive to
initiation. It is powerful,
stable, safe and efficient for the manufacture of improvised
blasting caps.
PETN is found, in it’s common form, as the filler in detonating cord
(E-cord etc.). If a person had access to this detonating cord he could
salvage the PETN out of
the cord by splitting it and simply scraping out
the filler with a pocket knife or similar
tool. The larger primer cord
could yield as much as 1.7 lb. (771 grams) of the powder per
hundred feet
of cord. If access was available this method would be much better and
easier than actual manufacture. This manufacture requires the acquisition
of fuming nitric
acid. This can be bought or made. For manufacture see
chapter 2 of "Kitchen Improvised
Plastic Explosives" Then the
pentaerythrite must be obtained. It is available and is used
in the paint
and varnish industries as well as in the manufacture of synthetic resins.
It is cheap, but could raise a few questions in it’s acquisition. Sulfuric
acid is available
from cleaning supply houses and as some generic drain
openers. This is one of the best choices
for cap base charge explosives. It
has great power and will, in a properly constructed cap,
give super
reliable detonation initiation.
MANUFACTURE
In a quartjar
or a 1000 ml beaker place 400 ml 99% strong white
nitric acid. This acid can be bought from a
laboratory supply or the fuming
red acid produced in process in "Kitchen Improvised
Plastic Explosives".
This fuming red acid will need to have the excess nitrogen dioxide
purged
until it is clear. This is done by adding 2-3 grams urea (45-0-0 fertilizer
will
work) to the acid. The mixture should clear up and loose the red tint.
If not, warm the acid
in the beaker and bubble dry air through the mixture.
With the clear, white acid in the beaker
place this beaker in a salted ice
bath. Let it cool to below 0 degrees C.. Add with stirring
100 grams of
pentaerythrite in small portions to the acid. The addition is done as such
a speed that the temperature of the solution does not rise to more than 5
degrees C. When the
addition is complete stir the acid/pentaerythrite
solution for 15 more minutes. The crystals
of the product will probably
already have formed somewhat in the liquid.
CAUTION:
At this point the crystals are a high explosive and should be
treated with respect.
with 2 1/2 quarts of
cracked ice and water. PETN will immediately form and
should be filtered out of the solution
through a paper towel or drip coffee
filters. This should yield 220 grams. This product needs
purification. Wash
these crystals 3 times with water and then wash 1 time with a 5% sodium
crystals in hot
acetone. Let this cool and the crystals will begin to fall
out of solution. Add an equal
volume of water to the acetone and the
crystals will fall out of solution. Filter these
crystals out and wash with
methanol and let them dry. This PETN can be dried by either simply
air
drying for 24 hours or by drying in a hot water bath. These dried crystals
are ready
to use.
Nitromannite(Mannite hexanitrate)
——————————–
DETONATION VELOCITY – 7000m/sec. @1.50 G/cc
greater when
between two hard surfaces.
BEHAVIOR TO FLAME – Will deflagrate under some conditions
but local over-
heating from a match will cause detonation.
Mannite is a simple
sugar. It finds wide use as a baby laxative, in
artificial resins and as a pharmaceutical
dilutant. It can, through
nitration, become a superb base charge for blasting caps. This
explosive is
attractive because of it’s power and performance characteristics. It has a
high detonation rate, good brisance and initiation properties. It has
several bad points. It
requires concentrated acid (90%+) which is harder to
prepare. It has elevated temperature
storage problems with greatly
increased sensitivity. This instability is brought on by storage
at 75
degrees C. for two days. The mixture of tetracene and nitromannite (40/60)
will
give a powerful brisant primary explosive that detonates from
moderate heat. Nitromannite is
usually used straight as a base charge for
blasting caps with 0.75 gram charge weights giving
100% reliability.
MANUFACTURE
One hundred grams of nitric acid (Specific
Gravity 1.51 G/cc) is
placed in a quart jar or 800-1000 ml beaker. This is cooled by
surrounding
with a salted ice bath. 20.2 G. mannite is added in very small portions
with
gentle stirring. The temperature should be kept below 0 degrees C.
This is done by controlling
the amount of time between the additions of the
mannite. When the temperature approaches 0
degrees C. stop additions until
the temperature has fallen some. After all the mannite has be
added 200 G.
98% sulfuric acid is added dropwise to the solution. This is done while the
mixture is stirred and with the temperature below 0 degrees C, temperature
is again maintained
by the speed of the addition. When the temperature
rises close to 0 degrees stop the addition
and allow the liquid reaction
mass to cool before addition is resumed. Completing the addition
of
sulfuric acid the porridge-like mixture is stirred for 5 minutes and then
filtered.
This filtering can be done through hardened filter paper or 10
drip coffee filters
(simultaneously). This product is washed with water and
then washed with 5% sodium
bicarbonate/water solution. Then the crystals
are washed again with water. This crude product
is then dissolved in
boiling alcohol with as much dissolved as possible. Place this container
in
a refrigerator and when chilled filter through one drip coffee filter. The
liquid
remaining is reheated and water is added until a turbidity is seen
(churning of the solution).
Allow to cool and filter the crystals out of
this solution. Completely dry the material and it
is ready to use. Could be
kept under water for safety until ready to use.
TACC (Tetraminecopper (II) Chlorate)
———————————–
DETONATION
VELOCITY – Not given
FRICTION SENSITIVITY – This primary explosive is as sensitive as
is lead
azide
BEHAVIOR TO FLAME – Deflagrates with a green flame. Requires
confinement to
detonate.
Tetramine copper chlorate is a very interesting primary
explosive.
While it has these good properties it is also easily made. It’s drawbacks
are
the tendency to "deadpress" or become so packed that it will not
detonate the base
charge in the cap and water contamination problems. For
this primary explosive to detonate it
must be loose in the detonator shell.
It would be best used in caps where the base charge is
pressed in first.
Rifle shell improvised blasting caps would not work well with this
explosive due to this property. In this reaction the sodium chlorate and
the copper sulfate
are heated together with methanol. This reaction
produced copper chlorate. This copper
chlorate dissolved in methanol. It
then has ammonia gas bubbled thru the solution. The
tetramine group is
added in this step. So the main actors in this chemical play are copper
from feed
stores or electroplating chemical supplier. Sodium chlorate is
also a chemical required and
would be available from matches, dyes,
textiles manufacture and as a weed killer.
"Kitchen Improvised Plastic
Explosives" has a section on chlorate manufacture in
chapters four five and
six. Ammonia is the last building block. This can be generated in one
of
two ways which will be explained in the manufacture section. The methanol
used is
just a reaction liquid and a carrier, as it does not actually enter
into the reaction. One
problem with this process is the contamination of
the methanol with water. This allows the
sodium sulfate to become soluble
in the first reaction and will remove the ability to separate
the products
of the reaction. The process is longer than others but is simple and
produced a good purity, stable product. This primary explosive should be
kept dry, as it could
begin to decompose in the presence of moisture.
MANUFACTURE-
Measure 15
grams of sodium chlorate into a large mouth pint bottle.
Sodium chlorate is the oxidizer in
matches. It is also available as a weed
killer. Add 360 ml of methanol or ethanol to the
sodium chlorate in the
pint jar. To this add 24 grams of copper sulfate. Place this liquid in
a
hot water bath. Heat at the boiling point for 30 minutes with occasionally
stirring
the liquid during the reaction.
CAUTION: Remember methanol is very flammable and great
care should be taken
to ensure the lack of open flame in it s proximity. Avoid
breathing
the vapors of methanol.
Keep the volume constant by continually adding alcohol to
replace what is
being boiled away. After 30 minutes remove the jar from the water bath. The
solution into a
jar through a paper towel or drip coffee filter. The
filtrate (liquid) should be caught in a
jar similar to the one used in the
first step. Label this liquid #1. In a narrow necked
gallonjar or flask
and a stopper (one hole) place 1500 ml clear ammonia water in the
solution.
This is available from the grocery store in a clear non-soapy form. In the
mouth of this is placed a stopper with one hole and a plastic or rubber
hose. This is placed
into a hot water bath. Ammonia will begin to generate
out of the gallon jug. A better ammonia
generator could be made by filling
a long necked bottle or flask with 250 grams lye (sodium
hydroxide). 500
grams of dry ammonium nitrate fertilizer or ammonium sulfate fertilizer is
hose set up could
generate greater quantities of ammonia and it would be
drier ammonia due to the nature of its
generation. Generation would be
maintained by the addition of more water. But with either
method the hose
should be placed in the liquid in the liquid #1. The ammonia gas should be
blue. Continue
bubbling for 10 minutes.
CAUTION: The ammonia gas generated will kill or cause grave
damage if
exposure is severe. Use with good ventilation.
The solution will turn
dark blue. Bubble the ammonia gas through solution
#1 for ten more minutes and remove the hose
from the solution. Reduce the
volume of the liquid by pouring into a shallow pyrex dish. Set
this dish
under a fan and allow 1/2 the alcohol to evaporate. Filter (paper towel
or
drip coffee filters) the crystals that remain in the liquid and wash
them with 50 ml very cold
methanol. Set these aside to dry for 16-24 hours.
CAUTION: Explosive is shock and flame
sensitive and great care should be
exercised during handling.
DDNP
(Diazodinitrophenol)
————————
DETONATION VELOCITY-4400 M/sec. @ 0.9
G/cc
6600 M/sec. @ 1.5 G/cc
6900 M/sec. @ 1.6 G/cc
FRICTION SENSITIVITY –
Less sensitive than mercury fulminate and the same
as lead azid.
BEHAVIOR TO FLAME –
Small quantities flash like guncotton. Large 6 grams
and larger would likely detonate.
DDNP is one of the highest in performance of nearly all the
homemade primary explosive.
It is stable and compatible with other
explosives, but, lead azide. This is a good choice for
manufacture as the
precursor to this DDNP primary explosive is picric acid. Picric acid is
becomes the base charge
for your homemade caps. It is prepared by a
diazotization reaction on picramic acid. This is
produced from picric acid,
sodium hydroxide (lye) and sulfur. See picric acid for it’s
manufacture
instructions.
MANUFACTURE:
In a pint glass jar place 90
ml warm water and 1.5 grams of lye
(sodium hydroxide). Mix these with a "teflon"
stirrer until all the lye had
dissolved. Dissolve 9 grams of picric acid crystals in the
lye-water
solution by stirring. Label this jar solution #1. In a 500 ml beaker 3 ml
of
water is placed. Dissolve 7.5 grams of sulfur and 7.5 grams of lye (sodium
hydroxide) by
stirring the solution. Boil this solution over a heat source.
When the solution turns dark red
remove and allow the liquid to cool. Label
this solution #2. Add this cooled solution #2 in
three portions, to
solution #1. Stir with a teflon rod while the liquid is being added.
Again
allow the solution mixture cool. Filter this mixture through filter papers
(coffee
filter, paper towels). Small red particles will gather on the
paper. Discard the liquid.
Dissolve these red particle in 180 ml of boiling
water. Remove and filter this hot liquid
through a filter paper (coffee
filter, paper towels). Discard the particles left on the paper
and label
the liquid left #3. To Solution t#3 with an eyedropper slowly add sulfuric
acid (Janitor supply, boiled battery acid) to the filtered solution until
it turns orange
brown. Add an additional 7.5 grams of acid to the liquid.
In a separate pintjar, dissolve 5.4
grams of potassium or sodium nitrite in
240 ml of water. Label this solution #4. In one
portion solution #4 is
added with stirring to solution #3. Allow the solution to stand for
10
minutes. The mixture will turn light brown.
CAUTION: At this point the brown
color is the DDNP that has formed. Keep
away from flame, avoid friction and keep from
shock.
Filter the light brown solution through a filter paper (paper towel, coffee
completely dry
for 24 hours. Drying time can be reduced to 2 hours if
crystals are placed in a shallow pyrex
dish and this placed in a hot (not
boiling) water bath.
CAUTION: DDNP is
sensitive to shock, friction and flame. Expose to any of
these will very likely detonate the
compound prematurely.
This powder should be stored in small quantities in stoppered
glass
containers. More safety in storage leave 25% water in the powder and dry
immediately prior to use.
HMTD (Hexamethylenetriperoxidediamine)
————————————-
DETONATION VELOCITY 4511 M/sec. @ 0.88 G/cc
5100 M/sec. @ 1.10 G/cc
FRICTION SENSITIVITY Very Sensitive!!!
BEHAVIOR TO
FLAME Small quantities flash like guncotton
Large accumulations will detonate.
HMTD is a high performance initiating explosive. It is one of the
better initiating
explosives but has some definite drawbacks. HMTD is not
stable at even slightly elevated
temperatures. Room temperature will even
cause a decrease in performance with storage time. As
one would imagine,
due to the extreme excess of oxygen, the corrosion of metals in contact
aluminum, zinc,
antimony, brass, copper, lead and iron. These metals in
contact with the HMTD even when dry,
will cause corrosion. With water
present, in the HMTD, the corrosion would more quickly
disable an
improvised blasting cap that could be made with this material. Spraying the
inside of your copper tubing with urethane plastic would most likely reduce
greatly, if not
completely stop, this corrosion problem. To manufacture
HMTD, use one of the processes
below.
Process #1
Obtain 6% hair bleaching peroxide which is available
from any
beauty salon or beauty supply store. This is a 20 volume hydrogen peroxide.
Place 9 teaspoons of this. 6% peroxide in a one pint canning jar or 500 ml
beaker. In three
portions dissolve by stirring 2-1/2 teaspoons of powdered
hexamine (Crushed U.S. Army ration
heating tablets, See "Kitchen Improvised
Plastic Explosives" chapter 2,
"Urintropine" etc.). This is stirred until
all the hexamine dissolves. The solution
should then be chilled in a ice
water bath for 1/2 hour. To this chilled solution add, in four
portions,
4-1/2 teaspoons of powdered citric acid. Citric acid is readily available
and
should be found with canning supplies or in a pharmacy. With each
addition the solution should
be stirred until the citric acid dissolves in
the liquid before another addition is made. When
all the additions have
been made continue stirring the liquid. The beaker or jar containing
the
solution should remain in the ice bath. The solution will become cloudy.
With the
completiorì of the 1/2 hour stirring the liquid is placed in a
refrigerator. This will speed
he process. If a refrigerator is not
available let the solution stand for 24 hours. Filter
the solution through
a paper towel or coffee filter. The white substance is the explosive.
CAUTION: HMTD is sensitive to shock, impact, friction, heat and open flame.
Extreme
care should be exercised. HMTD will detonate from any of these
stimuli even when soaked with
water.
These white crystals are washed with 45 ml of distilled water. Tap
water
can be used if necessary, but will yield a compound of lesser purity.
They are then washed
with 75 ml methanol alcohol. These crystals are
allowed to dry in a cool dry place. If a 30%
technical grade ("Superoxol")
of hydrogen peroxide is available it should be used
instead of the 6%. If
30% is used the proportions are as follows to use in the same process
as
above are:
HYDROGEN PEROXIDE. "Superoxol" (30% d. 1.11 G/cc)- 185
G
HEXAMINE (Crushed ration heating tablets) 56 G
CITRIC ACID (tech. grade or food grade)
84 G
These are used in the procedure given above. Simply "plug in" the
amount
immediately above for the spoon wise proportions given in the 6% hydrogen
peroxide process and the washing would be done with 150 ml cold water. Of
course in the
procedure if 35% or 40% is the only type hydrogen peroxide
available, then simply calculate
the actual weight of hydrogen peroxide. We
know that 185 G. of peroxide are used above. This
is 30% hydrogen
peroxide.185 G. X.30=55.5 G.. We know that we need 55.5 G. hydrogen
peroxide. Suppose we have some 40% peroxide. We take our 55.5 and divide
by.40 thus 55.5 /
0.40=138.75. Simply use 139.0 G. of this 40% hydrogen
peroxide in the procedure above. The
yield of this process with 30%
hydrogen peroxide is much greater that is the use of 6%
hydrogen peroxide.
But with the 6% being the easier of the two to obtain it still would
hold
possibilities
PROCESS #2
This second process is one of very
easy acquisition of the main
ingredients. Yield is not as high as the procedure above with
either
strength peroxide. This process makes use of the easy formation of hexamine
and
the parallel formation of a slightly acid solution. This acid is
liberated from the ammonium
sulfate salt. It is, of course, sulfuric acid.
This acid performs the function of the citric
acid in the procedure above.
This is after the free ammonia and the formaldehyde form
hexamine. Yield
will be relatively low with this procedure but the materials are readily
available and cheap. Since this procedure takes place at a elevated
temperature there will be
some lost of product to this subsequent heat and
the decomposition that will accompany it.
This process will work and could
be used if necessary.
Five hundred grams of 3%
hydrogen peroxide are placed in a quartjar
or 1000 ml beaker. Three percent hydrogen peroxide
is available as an
antiseptic solution in grocery stores, etc… To this is added fifty
grams
ammonium sulfate. Ammonium sulfate is available as common fertilizer. This
is
stirred until dissolved. This liquid should be heated in a water bath to
55 degrees C. (131
degrees F.). Immediately when the temperature reaches
this temperature add 5.3 grams of 37%
formaldehyde solution. Stir this
solution well and take off water bath. Let this liquid cool
to room
temperature and set for 24 hours. A white product will be seen in the
liquid at
this time.
CAUTION: This white product is dangerous and sensitive to FRICTION,
SHOCK,
HEAT OR FLAME. Handle with great care !! Even wet H.M.T.D. is dangerous
and will
detonate with ease.
This is filtered out and washed with one washing of 50 ml
distilled
water and then with 75 ml of 100% methanol. The methanol will speed the
drying
process. This white fluffy powder will be H.M.T.D. This powder will
be sensitive to friction
and small quantities should be handled.
——————————————————————————————-
CHAPTER THREE [INCENDIARIES]
——————————————————————————————-
What is an incendiary? Those are compounds that do not go "boom", but
can
burn fast and generate a lot of heat. For example, thermite, its an
incendiary, because it can
produce temperatures will up in the hundreds and
can even melt metal.
NAPALM
——
This is just gasoline in a thickend form. What it does is burn
for
long periods of time. If it is made right I hear that water can’t even put
it out.
What you do is take some polystyrine (styrofoam) and place it in
some unleaded gasoline
(unleaded works better). Keep feeding styrofoam to
the gas until you can not feed any more at
all. At points it will look
like thats all it can take, just wait for a minute and let the
other gas
rise to the top. It will take a lot of stryrofoam until you get what you
want.
When it is done, it will burn for a long time. I would suggest that
you do not place any on
you because once it is lit it will travel quite
quickly since it melts the thickend gasoline
and it rolls down. This is
also fun to play with. The only problem with it is it gives off too
much
smoke (which, I may add – is poison).
THERMITE
——–
This is the arsonists dream! Thermite is a very hot mixture. Although
it is slightly
hard to get ignited, so it is safe to transport it. Here is
what you do: Thermite is made from
powdered aluminum and iron oxide
(rust). Mix two parts by volume powdered alumnium with three
parts iron
oxide. This stuff is hard to light, but once you get it going don’t plan
on
putting it out, because it can produce enough heat to melt through a
steel plate. The finer
the ingredients are the easier it will be to
ignite.
CHEMICALLY IGNITED
EXPLOSIVES
—————————–
A mixture of 1 part potassium chlorate
to 3 parts table sugar (sucrose)
burns fiercely and brightly (similar to the burning of
magnesium) when 1
drop of concentrated sulfuric acid is placed on it. What occurs is this:
chlorine dioxide,
which explodes on formation, burning the sugar as well.
——————————————————————————————-
CHAPTER FOUR [SMOKE BOMBS]
——————————————————————————————-
So, you want a smoke screen? Well this chapter will explain how many
different types of
smoke can be made. Even colored smoke.
SMOKE PRODUCER
————–
The following reaction should produce a fair amount of smoke. Since
necessary for larger
amounts of smoke.
6g zinc powder
1g sulfur powder
Insert a red hot
wire into the pile, step back. A lot of smoke should
be created.
SMOKE
BOMB
———-
This is the father of all smoke bombs. Mix:
2 part
Potassium Nitrate
1 Part Granulated sugar.
Put this under a very low heat source
and melt the sugar and potassium
nitrate. After it is melted let it set and get hard. When it
gets hard,
just take outside and hold a lit match on an area of the smoke bomb and
wait
till it lights. You will know when it is about to ignite because the
stuff turns black and
will then spit and sputter and smoke will pour out of
the compound. You also can light it
without melting it but it burns too
fast and will make a hudge flame while the other one does
not.
HTH CHLORINE SMOKE BOMB
———————–
Take HTH
pool chlorine and some non-silicon brake fluid and mix the two
together in a ratio of 4 parts
chlorine to 1 part brake fluid. When you
mix the two together they will begin to sizzle and
then it will begin to
smoke. It will take about 30 seconds to start smoking fully. When it
does
begin to smoke it will produce a stinking cloud of thick white smoke. If
you do not
be careful it could burst into flames and burn what it is in. I
suggest to place the mixture
in a glass container for it gets real hot.
And anybody in their right mind will not go pick it
up and try to throw it
when it has done smoking. The smoke is known to last for over 2
minutes
and is also toxic because it produces chlorine gas, which is deadly!
————–
[Black]
Hexachloroethane……… 60%
Anthracene…………… 20%
Magnesium (powder)…….
20%
[Brown]
Pitch……………….. 29.2%
Potasium
Nitrate……… 47.4%
Borax……………….. 10.6%
Calcium Carbonate………
4.9%
Sand…………………. 4.0%
Sulfur……………….. 3.9%
[Grey]
Hexachloroethane……… 50%
Zinc Powder………….. 25%
Zinc
Oxide…………… 10%
Potassium Nitrate…….. 10%
Colophony Resin……….. 5%
[Grey]
Hexachloroethane……… 45.5%
Zinc Oxide……………
45.5%
Calcium Silicide………. 9.0%
[White]
Potassium
Chlorate……. 20%
Ammonium Chloride…….. 50%
Naphthalene………….. 20%
Charcoal…………….. 10%
[White]
Potassium nitrate…….. 48.5%
Realgar………………. 3.0%
[White]
Potassium Nitrate…….. 50%
Sugar……………….. 50%
[Yellow]
Potassium Nitrate…….. 25%
Sulfur………………. 16%
Realgar……………… 59%
[White]
Potassium
nitrate……… 6%
Antimony sulfide………. 1%
Powdered sulfur……….. 1%
[Yellow]
Potassium nitrate……… 4%
Powdered sulfur……….. 1%
Charcoal……………… 2%
Sodium chloride……….. 3%
[Yellow]
Powdered sulfur……….. 4%
Charcoal……………… 1%
Potassium nitrate……..
24%
Sodium carbonate………. 6%
[Red]
Strontium nitrate………
4%
Powdered orange shellac… 1%
[Red]
Strontium nitrate……..
11%
Powdered sulfur……….. 4%
Charcoal……………… 1%
Calcium
carbonate…….. 11%
Potassium nitrate……… 1%
[Purple]
Copper
sulfate………… 1%
Strontium nitrate……… 1%
Powdered sulfur……….. 1%
Charcoal……………… 1%
Potassium nitrate……… 3%
[Green]
Barium nitrate………… 7%
Powdered sulfur……….. 4%
Charcoal………………
1%
Potassium nitrate……… 1%
[Green]
Barium chlorate………..
9%
Powdered orange shellac… 1%
[Blue]
Anitmony sulfide……….
2%
Powdered sulfur……….. 4%
Potassium nitrate…….. 12%
[Blue]
Potassium nitrate…….. 12%
Powdered sulfur……….. 3%
charcoal……………… 1%
Copper sulfate………… 2%
Powdered rosin…………
1%
CHLORINE & TURPENTINE
———————
Take a
small cloth or rag and soak it in turpentine. Quickly drop it
into the bottle of chlorine. It
should give off a lot of black smoke and
probably start burning…
How to make the
MILITARY SMOKE BOMB
——————-
Orginally written by:
This is only a chemical compound for one type of
military device using pow-
dered white phosphorus as a titanium colored smoke explosive;this
device is
used today by numerous police and swat members and should be the number one
smoke screen for any terrorist’s arsenal.All materials are available at
hobby stores and
chemical supply companies,white phosphorus is sold in small
quantities so try to buy enough
over time.
SMOKE BOMB
Potassium Nitrate……….50%(SaltPeter)This can
be found at the drug store
Table Sugar…………….25%This can be found at the grocery
store
White phosphorus………..25%This can be found at hobby shops
Heat
this mixture over a LOW flame until it melts, stirring well.
Pour it into a future container
and, before it solidifies, imbed a
slow burning fuse into the mix
Tear Gas
——–
A terrorist who could make tear gas or some similar compound could use
it with
ease against a large number of people. Tear gas is fairly complicated
to make, however, and
this prevents such individuals from being able to utilize
its great potential for harm. One
method for its preparation is shown below.
EQUIPMENT
_________
1.
ring stands (2)
2. alcohol burner
3. erlenmeyer flask, 300 ml
4. clamps (2)
5. rubber stopper
6. glass tubing
7. clamp holder
8. condenser
9. rubber
tubing
10. collecting flask
11. air trap
12. beaker, 300 ml
MATERIALS
_________
10 gms Glycerin
2 gms sodium bisulfate
1.) In an open area, wearing a gas mask, mix 10 gms of
Glycerin with 2 gms
of sodium bisulfate in the 300 ml erlenmeyer flask.
2.) Light
the alcohol burner, and gently heat the flask.
3.) The mixture will begin to bubble and
froth; these bubbles are tear gas.
4.) When the mixture being heated ceases to froth
and generate gas, or a brown
residue becomes visible in the tube, the reaction is complete.
Remove the
heat source, and dispose of the heated mixture, as it is corrosive.
5.) The material that condenses in the condenser and drips into the collecting
flask is tear
gas. It must be capped tightly, and stored in a safe place.
——————————————————————————————-
CHAPTER FIVE [BOMBS]
——————————————————————————————-
This is the point I really stress the word saftey! At this point it
should be well
excercised and you had better know what you are doing
before you even attempt to construct
some of these devices. Remember that
the law prohibits the manufacture and use of such
devices, and you could be
breaking the law in some places. If you do make on of the devices
that is
listed in here then I would suggest you make a prototype and set that one
off in
the country and if it worked correctly then make your final one and
use it the way you had in
mind.
GENERIC BOMB
————
Aquire a glass container. Put
in a few drops of gasoline. Cap the top
and turn the container around to coat the inner
surface. Add a few drops
of potassium permanganate (found in a snake-bite kit) . To detonate
just
throw against a hard object. I hear this is the same as a half stick of
dynamite!
FIREBOMBS
———
Most firebombs are simply
gasoline filled bottles with a oil soaked rag
in the mouth. The original firebomb was one part
gasoline and one part
motor oil. The oil makes it splatter and stick on what your trying to
gasoline.
PIPE BOMB
———
A pipe bomb is very easy to make. But is also very
dangerous!
To construct a pipe bomb you will need a piece of pipe about one foot
long. Some fine gun powder, a solar ignitor, and a battery. Cap one end
of the pipe very good
with a cap. Pour some gun powder in the other end
about little over the middle. Cap the pipe
on the other end and make a
small hole in the middle of the pipe. Now wrap the whole pipe in
electric
tape and make the hole again. Place in the head of the solar ignitor in the
hole. Tape the ignitor down so it will not fall out.
To ignite the bomb I suggest you
take a VERY long wire and connect it to
the electrodes of the solar ignitor and run it very
far away. Then connect
the battery at the other end of the wire. DO NOT touch the battery to
the
electrodes of the bomb for even a second, because it WILL explode!!!
Remember
take a long two conductor wire and connect it to the
electrodes and run it far away and then
connect the battery to it. If you
made it correctly it will explode upon contact with the
battery! Remember,
this can kill you. This also can do a lot of property damage.
CONTACT GRENADE
—————
Materials: 2-3 in. section of pipe
PVC (for test and fun)
Steel (for shrapnel)
12 guage shotgun shell
(fitted
to pipe)
marble
ping pong ball
cap for pipe
2-3 ft. ribbon
explosive charge
(of personal preferance)
a 1/2 or 1/4 cup
petrol makes an excellent charge when
vaporized filling the pipe with gunpowder is simplest
This design is a modified
pipebomb which will be set off upon hard
contact. This makes things much easier than tossing
molotove cocktails or
lighting fuses as all you do is throw it and it should detonate on
contact.
1) Cut the plastic of the shotgun shell off of the primer and set aside.
2) Carefully fit the primer into one end of the pipe and epoxy securely.
3) Glue
the marble to the ‘dimple’ of the primer.
4) Cut the ping pong ball in half and then
glue half onto the marble to
make a simple form of casing.
5) Put explosive
charge into the hollow pipe (if useing gasoline use only
1/4 of the volume of pipe. Reason: 1
gal. of gas vapor = 16 sticks
dynamite!!!).
6) Cap the pipe and epoxy into
place.
7) Tie ribbon around tail section of pipe.
Relax. Now that its
finished heres how it works. When thrown the
grenade will come down upon the point because of
the tail flights. When it
hits, the primer will be crushed by the marble, setting it off. The
primer
then ignites the explosive charge. I heartily recommend that PVC be used
for
testing as the steel pipe is rather dangerous. This design is not a
toy and should not be
built to be played with. If you want a toy just
empty a shotgun shell and tape a marble to the
primer and throw. It makes
a quasi-safe firework.
CARBIDE BOMB
————
Obtain some calcium carbide. This is the stuff that is used in carbide
put it in a
glass jar with some water. Put a lid on tightly. The carbide
will react with the water to
produce acetylene carbonate which is similar
to the gas used in curring torches. Eventually
the glass will explode from
internal pressure. If you leave a burning rag nearby, you will get
a nice
fireball.
HINDENBERG BOMB
—————
Get, a
balloon, bottle, Liquid Plummer, foil, and a length of fuse.
Fill the bottle 3/4 full with the
Liquid plummer and add a little piece of
alumninum foil. Put the balloon over the next of the
bottle until the
balloon is full of the resulting gas. This is highly flammable hydrogen.
and light. Let
the balloon rise into the air. When the fuse gets to the
balloon and bursts it, the hydrogen
will cause a fireball.
FIREWORKS THE FACT BOOK
Written by: BlackPowder3
————————
Fireworks displays are fascinating.The spectacular
colors of fireworks are due to the presence of metal compounds in the burning material.
Chemists began studing colored flames in the eighteenth century and soon used flame tests to
distinguish sodium from potassium compounds.A flame test is a simple way to identify an element.
Summary of Facts and Concepts
—————————–
Elements
——
strontium nitrate *deep red*
carbonate *deep
red*
sulfate *deep red*
lithium *red*
strontium *red*
barium nitrate
*green*
chloride *green*
copper nitrate *bluish-green*
sulfate *bluish-green*
calcium *orange*
powdered copper *blue*
potassium permanganate
*purple*
powdered magnesium *white*
aluminum *white*
Home
made Fireworks
——————-
FIRECRACKERS
A simple firecracker
can be made from cardboard tubing and epoxy.
The instructions are below:
1) Cut a
small piece of cardboard tubing from the tube you are using.
"Small" means anything
less than 4 times the diameter of the tube.
2) Set the section of tubing down on a
piece of wax paper, and fill
it with epoxy and the drying agent to a height of 3/4 the
diameter
of the tubing. Allow the epoxy to dry to maximum hardness, as
specified on the
package.
3) When it is dry, put a small hole in the middle of the tube, and
insert a desired length of fuse.
4) Fill the tube with any type of flame-sensitive
explosive. Flash
powder, pyrodex, black powder, potassium picrate, lead azide,
nitrocellulose, or any of the fast burning fuel-oxidizer mixtures
will do nicely. Fill the
tube almost to the top.
5) Pack the explosive tightly in the tube with a wad of tissue
paper
and a pencil or other suitable ramrod. Be sure to leave enough space
for more
epoxy.
6) Fill the remainder of the tube with the epoxy and hardener, and allow
it to dry.
7) For those who wish to make spectacular firecrackers, always use
flash powder, mixed with a small amount of other material for
colors. By crushing the material
on a sparkler, and adding it
to the flash powder, the explosion will be the same color as
the
sparkler. By adding small chunks of sparkler material, the
device will throw out
colored burning sparks, of the same color
as the sparkler. By adding powdered iron, orange
sparks will
be produced. White sparks can be produced from magnesium shavings,
or from
small, LIGHTLY crumpled balls of aluminum foil.
Example: Suppose I wish to make a
firecracker that will explode
with a red flash, and throw out white sparks. First,
I
would take a road flare, and finely powder the material
inside it. Or, I could take a red
sparkler, and finely
powder it. Then, I would mix a small amount of this
material with
the flash powder. (NOTE: FLASH POWDER
MAY REACT WITH SOME MATERIALS THAT IT IS MIXED WITH,
AND
EXPLODE SPONTANEOUSLY!) I would mix it in a ratio of
9 parts flash powder to 1 part
of flare or sparkler
material, and add about 15 small balls of aluminum foil
I would
store the material in a plastic bag overnight
outside of the house, to make sure that the
stuff doesn’t
react. Then, in the morning, I would test a small amount
of it, and if it
was satisfactory, I would put it in the
firecracker.
If this type of
firecracker is mounted on a rocket engine,
professional to semiprofessional displays can be
produced.
SKYROCKETS
An impressive home made
skyrocket can easily be made in the home from
model rocket engines. Estes engines are
recommended.
1) Buy an Estes Model Rocket Engine of the desired size, remembering
that the power doubles with each letter. (See sect. 6.1 for details)
2) Either buy a
section of body tube for model rockets that exactly
fits the engine, or make a tube from
several thicknesses of paper
and glue.
3) Scrape out the clay backing on the back
of the engine, so that
the powder is exposed. Glue the tube to the engine, so that the
tube covers at least half the engine. Pour a small charge of
flash powder in the tube, about
1/2 an inch.
4) By adding materials as detailed in the section on firecrackers,
various types of effects can be produced.
5) By putting Jumping Jacks or bottle rockets
without the stick
in the tube, spectacular displays with moving fireballs or
M.R.V.’s
can be produced.
6) Finally, by mounting many home made firecrackers on the tube
with
the fuses in the tube, multiple colored bursts can be made.
ROMAN CANDLES
Roman candles are impressive to watch. They are relatively difficult
well worth the
trouble.
1) Buy a 1/2 inch thick model rocket body tube, and reinforce it
with
several layers of paper and/or masking tape. This must
be done to prevent the tube from
exploding. Cut the tube into
about 10 inch lengths.
2) Put the tube on a sheet of
wax paper, and seal one end with epoxy
and the drying agent. About 1/2 of an inch is
sufficient.
3) Put a hole in the tube just above the bottom layer of epoxy,
and
insert a desired length of water proof fuse. Make sure that
the fuse fits tightly.
tube.
5)
Make a ball by powdering about two 6 inch sparklers of the desired
color. Mix this powder with
a small amount of flash powder and
a small amount of pyrodex, to have a final ratio (by
volume) of
60% sparkler material / 20% flash powder / 20% pyrodex. After
mixing the
powders well, add water, one drop at a time, and mixing
continuously, until a damp paste is
formed. This paste should
be moldable by hand, and should retain its shape when left alone.
the ball to dry.
fairly easily. Put a
small wad of tissue paper in the tube, and pack
it gently against the ball with a pencil.
7) When ready to use, put the candle in a hole in the ground, pointed
in a safe
direction, light the fuse, and run. If the device works,
a colored fireball should shoot out
of the tube to a height of
about 30 feet. This height can be increased by adding a slightly
If the ball
does not ignite, add slightly more pyrodex in step 5.
9) The balls made for roman
candles also function very well in rockets,
producing an effect of falling colored
fireballs.
The following site has great information and important terms on the
making of fireworks and how to make the best;I give you this site because there is just too much
info on this subject to cover.
http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/nova/kaboom/
All
has been written by: BlackPowder3
MERCURY EXPLOSIVE
—————–
The
most common use for mercury is the thermometer,mostly used for measuring
temperatures for the
inside and outside,remember mercury is poisonous and can be
lethal if touched hand on or
breathed in;so when handling use face masks
and at least two coatings of plastic gloves in a
well ventilated room.
Mercury is also used as an explosive or called a charger for timed
bombs;the
military is considering to take this compound off the market completely because
Use this diagram to show yourself how to build this weapon;it can
be small
enough to be carried in your hand into a public place or large enough to be used
!
!
!
[--------------------/ ! /------]
[##blackpowder is######!########]
[#####[-------------------]#####]
[#####[***(MERCURY)*******]#####]
[#####[*******************]#####]
[#####[-------------------]#####]
[########filled in
here#########]
[-------------------------------]
1)A
container is used,probably metal or plastic something to hold in the powdered
material;with a
small opening to put a fuse,if you make the opening to large
the blackpowder may take a longer
time too explode
2)Mercury must be placed in the middle then the black powder is packed
hard around the mercury
3)The glass container is used from the thermometer(DO NOT
ATTEMPT TO REPLACE THE
GLASS CONTAINER USED FOR HOLDING THE MERCURY IN THE THERMOMETER BECAUSE
IF YOU
REMEMBER IT CAN BE LETHAL)
4)A fuse maybe used and if so make sure you
pick the right one because if you decide
to use a fast burning fuse you may not have enough
time to get away but a slow
burning fuse may give too much time and someone could possibly
move or take out the
weapon;timers can also be used through clocks or radio control.A black
powder fuse
can be made from the following figures below(this is a type of fast burning
fuse),
another fast burning fuse that is cheap and easy to make is a cotton string soaked
[cost is
about $1.50]don’t use shoe laces because they have polyester in them which
gives off a
plastic smell and don’t even burn.
If you feel you can’t make a fuse because you’re to fucken
slow then just take a
firecracker and shove it into the opening only leaving a tiny part out
so it can
be lit,this should explode the rest of the bomb(it is unknown because I have
never tried).
E-Z Pipe Bomb
————-
This bomb requires a foot of
steel pipe, a baby food jar filled with vinegar, a box of baking soda, and many small, sharp rocks,
like gravel.
One caps one end of the pipe and pours baking soda into the end of it. Sharp
rocks are placed on top of the baking soda, followed by the baby food jar. Now the other end is
capped. (Empty space in the pipe is filled as in the above example with toilet paper or another
substance.)
To use this device, smack the end of the pipe on hard concrete so that the baby
food bottle breaks. The vinegar and baking soda mix, causing the release of gases which build up
pressure until an explosion occurs. It sometimes takes considerable time, but when it goes off, it
has been measured to throw fragments as far as sixty feet. This means that one should be very far
away from the device and preferably under cover when it detonates. If one is unsure whether or not
the internal reaction has begun, the device should be placed in a safe, isolated area and
watched.
Pipe Bomb II
————
Cautions:
Pipe bombs are killing
devices. Their primary action is the throwing of fragments which slice through nearby action, and
not exploding per se. They can only be used to damage property in enclosed areas, such as cars or a
lockers, or when used in quantity or in conjunction with other explosive devices.
NEVER drill
into gunpowder. During the construction of a pipe, one may prepare the casing (the pipe) by drilling
holes for fuses, but this must be done BEFORE the explosive is placed in the device.
Similarly, do not hammer a pipe filled with gunpowder. In both cases, the heat from the friction
makes the powder explode prematurely.
Standard,Gunpowder Based Pipe Bomb:
The classic
pipe bomb is the best example of a metal contained explosive. A crude version of this device is made
using white tipped matches, off of which one cuts the match heads. One then pounds one end of a pipe
closed with a hammer, pours in the white match heads, and then pounds the other end closed. Now,
this device often kills the poor fool, since the pounding of the pipe closed causes sufficient
friction to ignite the amtch heads and explode the device. By using pipe caps, this device is made
safer, but no anarchist in their right mind uses matchheads in a bomb.
The best form of this
device is made using two pipe caps and a threaded pipe. First, one drills a hole in the pipe cap,
and puts a fuse securely into it so that it does not fall out and gunpowder does not leak out. The
fuse runs at least 3/4 of an inch into the pipe, and preferably more.
One then screws the cap
on tightly, possibly using a drop of super glue to guarantee its tightness, and then pours explosive
powder (gunpowder or black powder, for instance) into the bomb. The powder is then packed tightly
with a large wad of tissue paper, and, after the pipe is filled to the very top, the powder is
packed down, using a dowel or other cyndrilical object against the paper as a ram rod, until it does
not pack any further. At this point, the other cap is screwed on and glued. The tissue paper
prevents the powder from being caught in the thread of the pipe and thereby being exposed to
friction and potentially detonating.
This is one possible design that a bomber would use. If
one does not have access to a piece of threaded pipe (which sells cheaply at the local hardware
store), one could always use copper or aluminum pipe, since it is easily bent. However, a major
problem with copper piping is bending and folding it without tearing it, as it tends to split at the
fold.
The safest method for constructing a bomb out of copper or saluminum pipe is similar to
the mthod using a pipe and end caps. First, one flattens one end of a copper or aluminum pipe
carefully, making sure not to tear or rip it. A fuse hole should be drilled in the now closed end,
and the fuse should be inserted. Next, one fills the bomb with the low order explosive (the powder)
and packs it with the wad of tissue paper. A pair of pliers is then used to flatten and fold the
other pipe end. If one is not too stupid, this is done slowly, since the folding and bending process
gives off heat and could potentially ignite the explosive. One, of course, does not use a hammer for
this process.
A CO2 cartridge from a pellet gun can also be used as the container of a small
pipe bomb, with one mahor disadvantage, it is time consuming to fill. This is rectified by widening
the end of the cartridge with a pointed tool. One then merely needs to fill the cartridge and insert
a fuse. The devices are commonly called "crater makers."
These designs are only
suitable for the use of low order explosives, as high order explosives require a shockwave to
detonate. A design employing a small low order explosive around a high order explosive devices
could, however, be developed around the pipe bomb theme.
Dry Ice Bomb
————
This bomb, made from materials which are legally sold (except to minor) and easily available (though
they are illegal when combined to make a bomb) is almost ideal for anarchits who have little
technical sophistication. Unfortunately, the unpredicatibility of the bomb and the timing of the
explosion are significant drawbacks, but drawbacks thatare not so insignificant that they totally
discount this weapon.
Dry ice is frozen carbon dioxide. When exposed to temperature above
about -70 degrees centigrade (the temperature of dry ice) the ice evaporates into carbon dioxide
gas. the gaseous carbon dioxide, when contained, causes a buildup in pressure which evntually leads
to a significant explosion. Also, when carbon dioxide builds up in the atmopshere to about one part
in ten it makes air unbreathable by human standards.
The standard dry ice bomb is
manufactured from dry ice in a plastic container. This type of device is generally non-lethal and is
somewhat unpredictable in it seffectiveness. It does, however, make a big bang noise and spew out a
cloud of scary gas.
To manufacture this device, you must first acquire enough dry ice to fill
a two lite rbottle to about one to two inches. You chop the ice up, drop it into thje bottle, place
the bottle in the place you want it to detonate, and then add hot water. When the white gas starts
to smnoke out, you cap the bottle and run. The time to explode can be anything from seconds to an
hour, depending on how well ground the ice is (the smaller the pieces, the quicker the explosion,
because thegreater the surfacearea.)
The key to making this an effective anti-personell
device is fragmentation. it’s the thrown piecves of container that willinjure people, and not the
explosion or the noise. With a plastic bottle, fragmentation is not generated — often the bottle
simply bursts or a chunk of top or bottom flies off. This is also true for stronger containers, like
reinforced plastic or metal. Plastic fragments are also non lethal except at very closre ranges, and
even then only rarely. Some people have reporterd having this device, with plastic casing, explode
in their hands with no injurous effects (though there is always the surprise of being too close to
an explosion.)
The bestway to add lethality to this device is to use a glass (or porcelain or
relatively brittle material) casing, though this is much more dangerous. As a number of factors,
including air pressure and temperature, total surfacearea of the exposed dry ice (very hard to
control), and the specific container, go into determining timing for the explosion, it is very easy
to set down a device like this and have it go off before you’re able to get out of the blast range
of the flying fragments. At the very least, a good degree of practice with plastic dvices and some
kind of protective clothing and cove ris recommended.
Also, when handling dry ice, it is
important to use gloves and tongs, as the ice is very cold and will freze your hands. Dry ice should
neevr contact exposed skin or living tissue.
Lastly, dry ice devices can be used to poison
air and make it unbreathable for human beings, though only in large quantities in relatively poor
ventilated areas is this effective. Air containing sufficient amounts of carbon dioxide (evaporated
dry ice) mpumped into, say a ventilation system, can potentially suffocate an entire building. This
is also why there should be proper ventil;ation in any area where dry ice is prepared.
Cherry
Bomb
———–
Material:
Gun Powder or Flash powder
Ping Pong Ball
Ice pick.
Nail Polish
Electrical Tape
Instructions:
powder in the ping bong ball as possible and then the put the fuse through the hole. Now place it in
a safe place and light fuse, then run. Cover the entire ball with nail polish and/or tape. This will
give it an extra bang. This bomb is very flammable because after the explosion the ping pong ball
will consume itself in flames.
Ideas:
If you have slow burning wicks, make a long one
and send it up in a elevator to a story which people are in. Best in libaries or offices. Apartments
are good, better if the rooms have mail boxes which fall into the room. That’ll scare anyone.
Driving in a car? throw it into a crowd while they are waiting for a bus but watch out for cops.
Roll it down the gas tank of some losers car. It could blow the car up. Use them in churches, etc.
One factor with these is that they can produce exterm force and could shatter windows if placed in
the right place.
E-Z Terrorism Kit
—————–
Assembly of the versatile,
economic, and effective Terrorist Kit
The parts you’ll need are:
1) 4 AA Batteries
3) 1 SPDT Mini Relay (Radio Shack)
4) 1 Rocket Engine(Smoke Bomb
or M-80)
5) 1 Solar Ignitor (any hobby store)
6) 1 9-Volt Battery connector
Step
1: Take the 9-volt battery and wire it through the relay’s coil.
This circuit should also
include a pair of contacts that when separated cut off this circuit. These contacts should be held
together by trapping them between the locker,mailbox, or car door. Once the door is opened, the
contacts fall apart and the 9-volt circuit is broken, allow- ing the relay to fall to the close
postion thus closing the ignition circuit.
Step 2: Take the 4 AA batteries and wire them in
succession. Wire the
positive terminal of one to the negative terminal of another, until all
four are connected except one positive terminal and one negative terminal. Even though the four AA
batteries only combine to create 6 volts, the increase in amperage is necessary to activate the
solar ignitor quickly and effectively.
Step 3: Take the battery pack (made in step 2) and
wire one end of it
to the relay’s single pole and the other end to one prong of the solar
ignitor. Then wire the other prong of the solar ignitor back to the open position on the relay.
or car door.
And last, insert the solar ignitor into the rocket engine (smoke bomb or M-80).
Your kit is
now complete!
——–><——–
I (contacts) I
I — (9 volt)
I – (Battery)
I —
I (coil) I
—–//////——-
/———-
/ I
/ I
(switch)I I
I I
I I
I — (Battery)
I – (Pack)
I —
I I
— —
I I
*
(Solar Ignitor)
——————————————————————————————-CHAPTER
SIX [UNSTABLE EXPLOSIVES]
——————————————————————————————-
Unstable Explosive Mud
———————-
Mix solid Nitric
Iodine with househould ammonia. Wait overnight and
then pour off the liquid. You will be left
with a muddy substance. Let
this dry till it hardens. Now throw it at something!
Molotov Cocktails
—————–
First used by the Russians against German
tanks, the Molotov cocktail is now used extensively by terrorists worldwide. They are extremely
simple to make and can produce devastating results. By taking any highly flammable material, such as
gasoline, diesel fuel, kerosene, ethyl or methyl alcohol, lighter fluid, turpentine, or any mixture
of the above, and putting it in a large glass bottle, anyone can make a firebaomb. After putting the
flammable liquid in the bottle, simply put a piece of cloth that is soaked in the liquid in the top
of the botle so that it fits tightly. Then wrap some cloth around the neck and tie it, but be sure
to leave a few inches of loose cloth to light.
Light the exposed cloth and throw the bottle.
If the burning cloth does not go out, and if the bottle breaks on impact, the contents of the botle
will splatter over a alrge area near the site of impact and burst into flame. Flammable mixtures
such as kerosene and motor oil should be mixed with a more volatile anmd flammable liquid, such as
gasoline, to insure ignition. A mixtuyre such as tar or grease and gasoline will stick to the
surface it strikes and burn hotter, being more difficult to extinguish. A micture such as this must
be shaken well before it is lit and thrown.
A more effective molotov can be made with
gunpowder, a 6 oz bottle with screw cap, rubbing alcohol, toilet paper, paint thinner, lighting
fluid, a cnadle and a water proof fuse. The gunpowder is rolled in toilet paper to make a 1 inch
diameter ball. The fuse is inserted into the ball and the cap and wax is used to hold the fuse in
place. The bottle is filled 1/3 of the way with rubbing alcohol, paint thinner and lighter fluid.
The ball is suspended in the mixture and the cap is attached. The device is then lit and thrown.
Chemical Explosive Bottle
————————–
This
device is extremely unstable and packs force equivalent to approximately half a stick of dynamite.
This is a type of advanced Molotov cocktail that explodes instead of merely igniting.
The device is made using gasoline, a glass jug, and potassium permaganate. The bomb is made
by coating the inside of the jug with a few drops of gasoline, which are rolled to around to vcover
the entire interior surface. A few drops of potassium permaganate are added, and the device is
detonated by throwing it a
Chemical Fire Bottle
——————–
The chemical fire bottle is really an advanced molotov cocktail. Rather than using burning
cloth to ignite the liquid, which has at best a fair chance of working, the chemicalk fire bottle
uses the very hot and violent reaction between sulfuric aacid and potassium chlorate. The paper,
when struck with the acid, instantly bursts into a white flame, igniting the gasoline. The chance of
failure for this device is under 2%, and can be reduced to 0% if sufficient potassium chlorate and
sugar are used.
To construct this device, one needs two teaspoons of potassium chlorate, one
twelve ounce glass bottle, two teaspoons of sugar, a bottle cap with a palstic interior, four ounces
of concentrated sulfuric (battery) acid, a cooking pan with raised edges, eight ounces of gasoline,
paper towels, and a glass or plastic cup or spoon.
First, one tests the cap of the bottle
with a few drop sof sulfuric acid to make sure that the acid will not eat the bottle cap during
storage. If the acid eats through it in 24 hours, a new top must be found and tested, until a
resilient cap can be found. A glass top is excellent.
Once the cap is found, on pours eight
ounces of gasoline into the glass bottle. This is followed by the pouring of four ounces of
concentrated sulfuric (battery) acid into the bottle. Any spills of acid on the side of the bottle
must be wiped up, and the cap must be screwed on tight. Once the cap is attached, the bottle must be
washe din water. There may not be any acid on the exterior surface of the bottle.
Two
teaspoons of potassium chlorate and two teaspoons of sugar are placed in the glass or plastic up.
One half cup of boiling water, or enough to dissolve all the potassium chlorate and sugar, is added
to the cup. A sheet of paper towel is then placed in the cooking pan with the raised edges, and the
solution of potassium chlorate and sugar is poured onto it until it is saturated. It is then allowed
to dry.
When it dries, glue should be placed on the outside of the glass bottle containing
the gasoline and acid mixture. The paper towel should be wrapped around the botle, making sur eit
sticks in all places, and the bottle should be stored where itt will not be broken or tipped over.
At this point, the solution in the bottle should appear as two distinct liquids. At the
bottom it should be dark brownish-red, and at the top it should be clear. These solutions will not
mix. If all appears okay, this bottle can then be used.
To use, throw against any hard
surface. NEVER OPEN THE BOTTLE, since the acid could escape and trigger an explosion. This device
cannot be safely disarmed without detonation.
To test the device, tear off part of the paper
towel and plae a drop of sulfuric acid on it. If the paper towel bursts into flames, the device will
work.
Exploding Drugs
—————
Recent information indicates that
explosives disguised as narcotics have been encountered by law enforcement officers in Arizona.
traffickers who were geenrally bikers, exploded.
The explosives are fashioned from a compound
of red phosphorus and potassium chloride which is then rolled and wrapped into aluminum foil balls.
The balls are soaked in alcohol to make the mixture safe. When the alcohol completely evaporates,
the chemicals incisde the ball become explosive.
These foil balls are then place din
locations that are commonly searched by the police. The devies detonate when an officers, believing
he/she has found commonly wrapped narcotics, opens the aluminum foil ball to examine its contents.
They are extremely sensitive to heat, shock and friction. Attempts to unwrap the foil will
likely result in an explosion capable of blowing off the fingertips. Dropping these devices may
cause detonation. Two officers were slightly injured recently while attempting to unwrap mini-bombs.
Explosive devices have been found in three sizes, equivalent ot a marble, egg adn baseball.
The explosive force of the latter will cause death.
The mini-bombs resemble foil-wrapped
illicit drugs, the most common being from one quarter to one half inch in diameter. Construction of
these devices consists of a BB surrounded by a mixture of red phosphorus and potassium. This
concotion is then wrapped tightly in aluminum foil.
Dropper is the term by which users refer
to the mini-bomb. The majority of those discovered so far are marble sized.
Detoantion of a
25 or 50 dropper mini=bomb could result in serious injury or death,
It is believed that
suspects possessing or transporting thes devices wrap them in heavy padding, such as cotton or
sponge rubber.
Any suspected device or container labeled red phosphorus, potassium chlrorate
or perchlorate should be handled by explosive disposal personnel only.
These bombs first
appeared in Arizona in 1983 and resurfaced again in 1986. Since January 1987, these have been at
least six occasions where the mini-bombs were discovered during drug searches.
Aluminum foil
mini-bombs have been uncovered during routine searches by the Arizona Department of Public Safety
adn the Phoenix Police Department.
To date, mini bombs have only been found during searches
involving motorcycle gang and prison gang members, primarily the Dirty Dozen motorcycle gang and the
Aryan Brotherhood prison gang.
Nitrostarch Explosives
———————-
that need be done
is treat various starches with a mixture of concentrated
nitric
and sulfuric acids. 10
ml of concentrated sulfuric acid is added to 10 ml of
concentrated nitric acid. To this
mixture is added 0.5 grams of starch. Cold
water is added, and the apparently unchanged
nitrostarch is filtered out.
Nitrostarch explosives are of slightly lower power than T.N.T.,
but they are
more readily detonated.
E-Z Molotov Cocktail
——————–
Here is how you do it:
– Get a coke bottle & fill it
with gasoline about half full
– Cram a piece of cloth into the neck of it nice and tight
- Get a chlorine tablet and stuff it in there. You are going to have
to force it because the
tablets are bigger than the opening of the
bottle.
– Now find a suitable victim and
wing it in their direction. When it
hits the pavement or any surface hard enough to break it,
and the chlorine
and gasoline mix….BOOM!
10 Great Explosive Mixtures
1)Potassium perchlorate and cane sugar
2)Sodium nitrate
and sulphur flour
3)Potassium bichromate and Antimony sulfide
4)Guanidine nitrate and
powdered antimony
5)Potassium permanganate and powdered sugar
6)Barium chlorate and
paraffin wax
7)Sodium chlorite and aluminum powder(not sure about this one)
8)Magnesium
perchlorate and cane sugar
9)Ammonium nitrate (more than 40%pure) and gasoline(VERY
POWERFUL)
10)Sodium peroxide and flowers of sulphur
——————————————————————————————-CHAPTER
SEVEN [FUSES and TIMERS]
——————————————————————————————-
BLACK POWDER FUSE
—————–
By dissolving about one teaspoon of
black powder in about 1/4 a cup of
boiling water and while it is still hot, soaking in it a
long piece of all
cotton string, a slow-burning fuse can be made. After the soaked string
dries,
it must then be tied to the fuse of an explosive device.
Fuses
—–
You would be surprised how many files are out there that use what
falls
under the category of a "fuse." They assume that you just
have a few lying around,
or know where to get them. Well, in some
parts of the country, fuses are extremely hard to
come by… so
this file tells you how to make your own. Both fuses presented
here are
fairly simple to make, and are fairly reliable.
SLOW BURNING FUSE
—————– (approx. 2 inches per minute)
Materials needed:
– Cotton string
– Potassium Nitrate or Potassium Chlorate
– Granulated sugar
Procedure:
rinse with fresh water
–
Mix the following together in a glass bowl:
1 part potassium nitrate or potassium chlorate
2 parts hot water
– Soak strings in this solution
– Check the burn rate to see how
long it actually takes!!
FAST BURNING FUSE
—————– (40 inches per
minute)
Materials needed:
-Soft cotton string
-fine black powder (empty a
few shotgun shells!)
-shallow dish or pan
Procedure:
– moisten powder to
form a paste
– twist/braid 3 strands of cotton together
– rub paste into string and
allow to dry
– Check the burn rate!
Timer Delays
————
Timer
delays, or "time bombs" are usually employed by an individual who
wishes to threaten
a place with a bomb and demand money to reveal its location
and means to disarm it. Such a
device could be placed in any populated place
if it were concealed properly. There are several
ways to build a timer delay.
By simply using a screw as one contact at the time that
detonation is desired,
and using the hour hand of a clock as the other contact, a simple timer
can be
made. The minute hand of a clock should be removed, unless a delay of less
than
an hour is desired.
___________________________________ to ignitor from
ignitor
| |
| 12 | : :
| 11 1 | : :
| | : :
| 10 2 | : :
|
o…………….|……: :
| | :
| 9 3 | :
| | :
| | :
| 8 4 | :
| 7 5 | : :
| 6 | :.+…..-…..:
|__________________________________| __|_____|
| |
| battery |
o – contacts | |
|___________|
This device is set to go off in eleven hours.
When the hour hand of the
clock reaches the contact near the numeral 5, it will complete the
circuit,
allowing current to flow through the ignitor or squib.
The main
disadvantage with this type of timer is that it can only be set
for a maximum time of 12
hours. If an electronic timer is used, such as that
in
an electronic clock, then delays
of up to 24 hours are possible. By removing
the speaker from an electronic clock, and
attaching the wires of a squib or
ignitor to them, a timer with a delay of up to 24 hours can
be made. To
utilize
this type of timer, one must have a socket that the clock can be
plugged into.
All that one has to do is set the alarm time of the clock to the desired
time,
connect the leads, and go away. This could also be done with an electronic
watch,
if a larger battery were used, and the current to the speaker of the
watch was stepped up via
a transformer. This would be good, since such a timer
could be extremely small. The timer in a
VCR (Video Cassette Recorder) would
be ideal. VCR’s can usually be set for times of up to a
week. The leads from
the timer to the recording equipment would be the ones that an ignitor or
squib
would be connected to. Also, one can buy timers from electronics stores that
would
be ideal. Finally, one could employ a digital watch, and use a relay, or
electro-magnetic
switch to fire the ignitor, and the current of the watch would
not have to be stepped up.
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Digtal Timer
————
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ŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽ—
[Terrorizing Northwest calgary
since 1986]
"THE RELEASING OF ANGER CAN BETTER ANY MEDICINE UNDER THE SUN" –
Pantera
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– – – –
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"Don’t know if i’ll
blast, maybe I’ll just throw
Maybe I’ll kick down something special
But believe me,
you’re gonna know
You Should have thought before you got it started
‘Cause everything
has got an end
Ain’t no sloppy fool that’s innocent
We call this mutha revenge"
ŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽÅ
– Suicidal Tendencies
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The reason I
decided to type this up was that I saw another file (AHP07.ZIP)
with instructions for a 555
timer. It does not work, so I decided to release
to the public my version of the time bomb
circuit. (Note that although
that particular device did not work, the other AHP files are
worth a look –
Schematics for stun guns, FM transmitters, and other necessities)
range and can be hooked up to
a microphone, telephone, etc..
It’s too complex for me to bother writing a file about now,
but maybe I
will SOMEDAY release it as purely a schematic and assume you know what you’re
What is
it?
This is a neat little circuit which will allow you to make an electronic
time-bomb type device (sorry, no cool little LED numbers and clicking sounds
like you always
see in movies though). This is actually two separate circuits –
#1 – a timer which triggers a
relay, and #2 – the relay controlled ignition
circuit. After looking at the schematic, you
may wonder what the point of the
relay circuit is – why not just put the igniter in place of
the relay coil
on circuit one? The answer is this: There is not enough current to burn the
steel wool, due most likely to the resistance of the 555 timer, and maybe other
factors… I’m not sure, I just know that the steel wool doesn’t burn. So,
the second circuit
is completely independant of the first one, except for the
relay which switches the current
on after the timer is triggered. Therefore,
you will need two nine volt batteries for this
circuit to work. Oh well.
Parts list:
You can buy these at
a electric parts store, or salvage them from garage junk,
or whatever. DON’T buy them from
Radio Shack – The 555 timers cost $3 EACH,
and you can buy them for about 55 cents elsewhere.
(ask the electronics teacher
in your school, or look in the phone book)
S1,S2 – Any working Switch – whatever you can salvage
C1 – any value capacitor (keep reading
for info)
R1 – Resistor, value depends on desired delay (keep reading for info)
IC1 –
555 timer
Two 9V batteries
Small Relay (grab it from one of those 100 in 1 electric
kits, or buy one)
IC socket
PC Board kit (would really help – or use Perfboard)
Wire, Solder, Solder pencil, Electrical tape, etc…
See the GIF
included – TIMER.GIF – for schematic.
You should have no problem viewing it in CGA, EGA, or
VGA, if you have CSHOW.
Just in case you’re not sure, the pin numbers on the IC
(555 timer) are
as follows:
|——-\ /——-|
| \_/ |
—-| 1 8
|—-
| |
—-| 2 7 |—-
| 555 timer |
—-| 3 6 |—-
| |
| |
|——————-|
(make sure you don’t
accidentally do what I originally did – which
was to think that pin #8 was number 5, 7 = 6, 6
= 7, 5 = 8 – that
seems more logical, so it’s easy to forget when soldering)
Building:
To determine the value of resistor and capacitor to use for your desired
time,
use the following formula:
Time (in seconds) = 1.1 x R x C
Therefore, to obtain a time of 15 seconds you would:
1. Find a good quality capacitor
from junk you have laying around.
(in this example, say it’s 50 ‘F (micro-farads))
(*** IMPORTANT: change Micro-farads to farads first – divide by 1,000,000)
(pF
- pico-farads are 1,000,000th of a ‘F (micro-farad) – probably too
small for this circuit)
2. Determine the resistor value to use:
Time = 1.1 x R x C
15 = 1.1 x R x 0.000050
15
R = ————–
(1.1 x 0.000050)
15
R = ————–
0.000055
R = 272727.27
ohms
Therefore, for an approximate 15 second delay, you would need a resistance
close to 272,727 ohms. (272k)
(when I wired this up, I wanted approximately a 10
second delay, so I used
a 50K resistor. Before adding the relay, the time was 13 seconds.
After
adding the relay & shit, the time decreased to 7 seconds. I have NO idea
why. Just keep this in mind. Maybe it was pure luck in my case, or bad
soldering. I don’t
know…)
3. Find a resistor near the determined value, and solder your circuit
up
(using wires, a Printed Circuit Board, Perfboard, or whatever you have
around).
To aid you in salvaging resistors from old parts, I have decided to
describe the
color band system of marking resistances on resistors.
If you know all this already, skip to
#4.
Reading resistor color bands:
1st band = 1st digit in number
2nd band = 2nd digit in number
3rd band = Number of zeros after first two digits
4th
band = Tolerance (ALWAYS Gold or Silver)
To read, make sure the gold or silver band
(sometimes looks greenish) is
on the right.. Then the numbers are as follows:
Black = 0 The final band is either Gold or Silver…
Brown = 1 These are tolerance levels and
aren’t really
Red = 2 important for this circuit…
Orange = 3 Silver = 10%
Yellow = 4 Gold = 5%
Green = 5
Blue = 6
Violet = 7
Remember this
as BB ROY G BV… Trust me, it helps once you have
memorized this.. You can remember which B
is brown and which is black
since Black is the absence of color, therefore black is 0…
Now an example:
You find a resistor in your junk box with the following
colors:
1st – Red 2nd – Red 3rd – Yellow 4th – Gold
Since Red = 2 and
Yellow = 4 this resistor is equal to 22 followed by
4 zeros or 220,000 (220K). The gold band
is the tolerance which is
5% (most common).. This means it could be 5% off of the marked
value,
so the resistance of this particular resistor will fall between
209,000 ohms
and 231,000 ohms.
4. Attach the positive terminal of a 9V battery to one wire
of a switch (not
shown on Schematic diagram), and the two positive inputs on the circuit
such.
When this switch is off, there is no way in hell the thing will
go off, but to be extra
cautious, you might want to add another switch
in series with the relay (switch part) and the
other nine volt battery. This
will be a bit of a pain though (putting three switches on the
device
is just asking for trouble/confusion), so don’t do it unless you really
are
paranoid, or are building a pipe bomb big enough to blow
up the world trade center.
5. Now, the fun part. Find a suitable container (I used the top half of a
plastic 1.25 litre 7-UP bottle, and the bottom hard plastic thing as a
removable cover to
change the batteries), and make two holes for the switches,
sized and placed according to
what the switches you used are like. Make sure
you mark which way is on. Turn both switches
off, and fasten into place with
the movable part sticking through the hole. Mark them as
"ARM" and
"TIMER" with tape or something. Now, everything should fit into
the
container. Make two small holes for your igniter leads, and feed them through.
Place the circuit in the container, put the two batteries in their clips, and
close the
container. You now have a portable timer system. To use it, FIRST
turn the "TIMER"
switch ON. AFTER, and ONLY AFTER the "TIMER" switch
is ON, turn the "ARM"
switch ON. Now, as soon as you turn the "TIMER"
switch OFF, the countdown will
begin. Run like hell! This sequence may
seem a bit strange, but believe me, it’s necessary.
Just try it using an
LED (light emitting diode) and you will see it works. Once again, the
sequence
is: (You should clip & print the text below, and tape it to the device)
Keep Both switches OFF at all times except when using.
When ready to use:
#2: Connect bomb (ARM is OFF and TIMER is ON)
#3:
"ARM" turn ON.
#4: "TIMER" turn OFF. (starts timer)
#5: Run like
hell.
That’s it. You are now the proud owner of you own, home built, electrical
timer. Just make sure you always use fresh 9V batteries and it will rarely,
if ever,
fail. Suggested uses:
#1: AGT green boxes! Make a nice big pipe bomb with plain old
easily
obtainable Black Powder, and blast the hell out of those ugly green boxes.
Just
make sure you do it in a different neighborhood than your own – unless
you want your own
phone service fucked up for a while… AGT charged me,
so I will "charge" their
boxes! BOOOM! Just rip one open with a wrench,
and put in a timer/bomb with a 30 min delay.
Walk away. Return in 25
mins, and just unsuspiciously watch the fireworks (pretend you are
pondering the wonders of a nearby storm sewer grate or something – haha)
#2:
Green transformer boxes (I haven’t openend one of these, but i’m sure it
could be done…
but, I have this thing about thousands of volts of
electricity…. ) I bet one of these would
go out in a nice explosive
shower of sparks!
#3: Cars! Cars! Cars! Some idiot
with an Acura NSX really pissing you
off? Piss him off by attaching one of these to the
bottom of his car,
preferably near the gas tank. Make sure it’s powerful enough to destroy
the thing.
#4: Leave in a public place – mall garbage can, downtown on the
street,
whereever lots of people are gathered. I really REALLY would love
to see
something like that on 2&7 Newsfirst. (especially if I had
the satisfaction of knowing I
was the one who caused it!)
#5: Mail boxes! Fuck the postal service by dropping one in
a mail box.
Come back and pick up the scattered letters – maybe you will find
something interesting!
Hell, just be creative… This device can be used for
whatever you like –
a 10 second delay to run from homemade fireworks or a 3 hour delay to
and don’t be dumb
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡Â
and blow your own hand off! Just blow someone else’s off!
¡Â¡Â¡Â¡Â¡Â¡Â¡Â¡Â¡Â¡Â¡Â¡Â¡Â¡Â¡Â¡Â¡Â¡Â¡Â¡Â¡Â¡Â¡Â¡Â¡Â¡Â¡Â¡Â¡Â¡Â¡
The maximum resistor you
can reliably use is approx. 3.3 Mega-ohms (3,300,000
ohms). Using an R1 value of 3.3M ohms,
and a C1 value of 0.5 Farads, you could
construct a device which would go off after 1,815,000
seconds
(1.1 x 3,300,000 x 0.5), or 30,250 minutes, or 504 hours, or 21 days! 3 weeks!
If you were sure of what you were doing, you could construct an explosive which
you could
leave somewhere 3 weeks ahead of the time you want it to go off
(assuming your battery
doesn’t run down first!).
The accuracy would probably decrease depending on the time
you wish to use,
so you can only make it go off at a general time (ie: you couldn’t make
make one to
go off at approx 12 noon tomorrow, and you could definately make
one go off in almost exactly
45 seconds))
Electric ignitor:
—————–
For a simple electrical ignitor, see the GIF included, IGNITE.GIF. This
is simple to
use, and when attached to the terminals (T1 & T2) of this device,
makes an excellent
ignitor. You can make a small blasting cap out of black
powder and this ignitor. You could
also construct a pipe-bomb from black
powder, and use the ignitor to set it off.
The entire length of steel wool of the ignitor absolutely
MUST be in contact
with the black powder. Otherwise you may have a misfire.
If
you happen to have lots of money and nothing to spend it on, you could
buy electrical
ignitors for model rocketry (called "Solar Ignitors" for some
stupid reason). These
would be more reliable and better for those devices where
misfires would really piss you off.
]ŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽ
ŽŽŽŽ[ Diabolical G D ŽŽŽŽŽŽŽŽ
Radio Control
Detonators
------------------------
In the movies, every terrorist or criminal
uses a radio controlled
detonator to set off explosives. With a good radio detonator, one can
be
several miles away from the device, and still control exactly when it explodes,
in
much the same way as an electrical switch. The problem with radio
detonators is that they are
rather costly. However, there could possibly be
a reason that a terrorist would wish to spend
the amounts of money involved with a RC (radio control) system and use it as a detonator. If such an
individual wanted to
devise an RC detonator, all he would need to do is visit the local hobby
store
or toy store, and buy a radio controlled toy. Taking it back to his/her abode,
all
that he/she would have to do is detach the solenoid/motor that controls the
motion of the
front wheels of a RC car, or detach the solenoid/motor of the
elevators/rudder of a RC plane,
or the rudder of a RC boat, and re-connect the
squib or rocket engine ignitor to the contacts
for the solenoid/motor. The
device should be tested several times with squibs or ignitors, and
fully
charged batteries should be in both he controller and the receiver (the part
that
used to move parts before the device became a detonator).
Electric Blasting Cap
Manufacture
---------------------------------
Electric blasting caps offer a
good deal more versatility to the
blaster. This allows better and more remote blasting
operations and the
possibility for timed blasting applications are great but cannot offer
the
versatility of application. The electric blasting cap (EBC) can.
EBC's are
very simple in their function. Current is passed through
the two wires leading from the cap.
This current, due to resistance, heats
a small "bridge wire" which in turn fires an
ignition mixture. This, in
turn, fires the primary explosive and base charge respectively. The
problem
with improvisation is finding a suitable performing bridge wire which will
give
reliable performance. Earlier literature has stated that the "guts"
from light bulbs
will work. They will work but cannot be expected to resist
corrosion produced by some
situations and could not be expected to give
stable reliable detonation instigation.
other small slender
rigid object, reach into the case and knock out the
fired primer. Enlarge the flash hole with
a 1/8 inch diameter drill.
Deburr this enlarged hole so that the wires passing through will
not have
their insulation cut by these burrs, and thus causing a dud. Pass two
sections
of 22 gauge insulated wire, twelve inches long, through the 1/8
inch hole so that they go
completely through the case, and their ends are
free of the case mouth. Strip 1/8 inch of the
insulation off the wires
protruding from the case mouth. Cut a 3/8 inch section of .01 inch
"nichrome
wire", which is available at any hobby store or from nearly any
electronics
supplier. Nichrome wire is the wire inside toasters and other appliances
that gets hot when current is passed through it. Discarded appliances could
be another source
of this wire. This piece of nichrome wire is spliced into
both of the wires at the case mouth.
Splice the 22 gauge wires to both ends
of the nichrome wire bride. This splice can be formed
by twisting the
nichrome wire around the upper part of the stripped 22 gauge wire and the
placed on these
splices to ensure a good circuit. Outside dimensions of
this improvised "bridge
wire" should not be greater than .28 inches. A small
wooden support should then be placed
above the junction of the bridge wire.
This will help the improvised bridge resist deformation
and breaks from
loading the cap. This wooden support could be made of a wooden match stick
the ends notched out
for the 22 gauge wire. These wires should be glued on
the support stick. This whole bridge
wire unit should be narrow enough to
allow it to be pulled inside the 7.62 mm case even with
the priming mixture
on it. The wires should be twisted together on the other side of the
wooden
support after the glue on the ends of the support stick have dried,
securing the
wires in place. These bridge wire units are now ready to have
their igniter composition placed
on them. We will give three different
compositions for this.
#1
Match heads (ground damp with acetone) 50%
Smokeless powder 50%
#2
Black powder (improvised will work) 50%
Smokeless powder 50%
#3
Potassium Perchlorate 60%
Sulfur 38%
White glue (Elmer's) enough to form a pasty mass
The first two of these compositions should be used by mixing and
slightly dampened
with acetone. This will form a putty type mixture. This
is pressed very gently around the
bridge wire assembly. Remember, you have
to get this back into the case, and when dry this
priming mixture will be
as hard as rock. It should also be said that great care should be
taken to
ensure the continuity of the circuit. This can and should be checked by
using a
ohm meter. Let these dry, and they are almost ready to load with
explosives. You may want to
test one of these before loading to see how they
work. In tests, these bridge wires when used
in ignition squibs, where 98%
reliable. They are also sensitive to 2 "C" batteries
or larger.
Gently pull the bridge assembly into the case with the wires
extended
from the other side: When firmly in the case as far as possible,
put several drops of
"model airplane glue" in the recess where the spent
primer was. This is allowed to
dry. When dry, these are ready to load.
These are loaded with the same amounts of
explosives as the fused
caps so use the table in that section of this book to find the
quantity to
load. The only difference is the amount of black powder igniter used. Use
1/8 to 1/4 gram of black powder for the igniter charge. This is done to
cushion the bridge
wire when the primary and base explosives are pressed
in. After the addition of the black
powder igniter, tap the case to settle
this charge. The primary explosive charge is very
carefully pressed on top
of the igniter charge with a wooden dowel and remotely if possible.
Best
results will be obtained with the press apparatus. See the drawing. The
base charge
is then pressed on on top of the primary charge. Check the
circuits, one at a time, with a OHM
meter from behind a barricade. Press
cotton in the remaining part of the case, a crimp with
cotton, in the part
of the case that is being crimped. These can be water proofed by
dipping
the completed cap in hot wax for just long enough to immerse them
completely.
These caps are ready to use and will equal a #8 or #10 blasting
cap.
Fuse Cap
Manufacture
--------------------
Being totally realistic one cannot hope to
produce a blasting cap
comparable to commercial products. The precision of modern
manufacturing
can produce caps cheaply and safely. The actual loading process is a
dangerous one, but can be made relatively safe by taking the precautions
outlined in the
processes below. The home producer, can however,
manufacture a cap that will work 99% of the
time. These "homemade" caps
will detonate most of the high explosives that their
commercial
counterparts will.
Fuse caps are blasting caps that are fired by the
flame from a
safety fuse. This flame ignites the flash charge of loose black powder.
This, in turn, ignites the primary explosive. This primary explosive makes
the transition from
burning (deflagration) to detonation. These caps can be
loaded as a simple cap or a compound
cap. The simple cap has only the flash
charge and the primary explosive. The compound caps
have both these
ingredients plus a high explosive base charge. The compound caps are
usually a good deal stronger due to the high explosive base charge. To
manufacture these caps
the explosives are simply pressed into the cap
container. This container should be 1/4 inch in
diameter (or larger)
copper or aluminum tubing 1.25" long or a 5.56 mm N.A.T.O. spent
cartridge.
The tubing can have one end sealed with a wooden plug or simply be crimped
closed with a pair of pliers. The burr should be removed from the open end
of the tubing.
After removing this burr, these tubes would be ready to load
with the explosive charges. When
using a 5.56 mm N.A.T.O. spent case the
primer would need to be removed. After this has been
done the flash hole
would need to be enlarged enough to accept the fuse. This could be
accomplished with a hand drill or by using a nail. The cap case would then
be ready to insert
the fuse and load with the explosive charges. The copper
or aluminum tubes would need the base
charge to be pressed in first. This
pressing should be done with a close fitting wooden dowel.
This should also
be done with the tube supported rigidly from underneath and surrounded
with
bags of sand to absorb the explosion, if necessary. Find in this section a
drawing
of a loading apparatus. This apparatus would be safe as the
operator would be remote. This
press would be simple to make and would be
highly recommended. Next the primary charge should
be pressed into the
tube.
CAUTION: Primary explosives are very sensitive to
friction and impact !
Extreme care should be taken in this step of the procedure. A foul up
here
could be very dangerous !
After this primary charge is pressed a very small
amount of black
powder is placed on top of the primary charge. This will ensure the
ignition of the primary charge. The fuse is then placed in the mouth of the
filled tube so
that the end contacts the black powder ignition charge.
NOTE: Use only good quality
safety fuse available from: Westech Corp. P.O.B.
593, Logan UT. 84321, Zeller Enterprises, P.
O. Drawer W 2, WickenburgA Z.
85358. Goodfuse can be made by soaking cotton twine in a
saturated solution
of potassium chlorate. This, however, will not be as reliable and
therefore
not as safe.
A small wad of cotton is then pressed on top of the fuse
and initer
charge so that the fuse can exit the tube on one side. This is then crimped
with pliers. Care should be taken to ensure the primary explosive is not
present in the area
of the tube to be crimped, as this crimping with this
primary in between the tube walls could
very well cause the premature
detonation of the cap. This cap would then be ready to use.
Simple caps can be loaded similarly with the deletion of the base
charge in the
loading. They can also be loaded into a .22 magnum spent
cartridge case in a manner similar to
the method above. These small caps
will not be as powerful as the larger caps. Some of the
primaries would not
be suitable and all of the others would need their primary charge
doubled
for maximum performance.
The 5.56 mm cartridge case would be load is the
exact opposite of
the copper or aluminum tube caps. The fuse would be inserted into the
case
through the flash hole. The black powder ignition charge would then be
place in the
bottom of the case. The primary would then be placed in the
bottom of the case. The primary
would then be pressed into the case
carefully and of course on top of that would be the base
charge. After
these were pressed into the case a small ball of cotton or paper would be
pressed into the case to fill the remaining portion. Then the end of the
case would be crimped
with pliers to close the cap. This cap would then be
ready to use.
1/4"
aluminum or copper tube.
Igniter: Black Powder .20 G.
PRIMARY:
HMTD .75
G.
DDNP .50 G.
Mercury Fulminate .75 G.
Double Salts .75 G.
Nitromannite .50
G.
BASE:
RDX 1.0 G.
PETN 1.0 G.
Picric Acid 1.0 G.
TeNN 1.0
G.
Nitromannite 1.0 G.
MMAN (3/8" tubing) 3.0 G.
Nitroguanidine 2.0 G.
Tetryl 1.5 G.
As you can see by the above chart the nitromannite is listed as
both a primary and a base charge. The reason for this is, that while it is
not actually a
primary explosive, it tends to function as one.
Nitromannite's use as a base charge makes use
of the 8000+ M/sec.
detonation velocity. This nitromannite is a very touchy substance with
last resort.
5.56 mm Empty cartridge case:
Igniter:
Black powder 2.O G. 3 grains
PRIMARY:
HMTD
DDNP .50 G
Mercury Fulminate .75 G
TACC 1.0 G
Double Salts .75 G
Lead Picrate 3.0 G
Nitromannite .50 G
TACN 4.5 G
BASE:
PETN 1.0 G
RDX 1.0 G
TeNN 1.0 G
Nitromannite 1.0 G
Picric Acid
1.0 G
Nitroguanidine 2.0 G
MMAN (7.62case) 3.0 G
Tetryl 1.5 G
TACN is
listed here as a primary. This is given due to the ease of
manufacture. This primary is stated
in literature to detonate T.N.T.. The
need for a heavy wall thickness detonator capsule would
limit this to 5.56
mm shell detonators or larger empty shells. The use of MMAN would
require
waterproofing the finished cap by dipping in molten wax or paraffin.
HOW
BLASTING CAPS WORK
----------------------
I know you have seen before, on T.V.,
the western where the good
guy sticks a fuse in a stick of dynamite and presto he has a
fuse
detonation device? If you have used explosives in the military or otherwise
you
know that this is a bunch of huey! While there are explosive
compositions that can be made to
detonate this easily, this same trait
gives them a dangerous nature that requires very special
precautions, if
they can be used at all.
Detonation is in essence a chemical reaction
brought about by a
high velocity shock wave at speeds as low as 1100 M/sec. and going up to
by the
blasting cap and is continued throughout the explosive charge as the
detonation progresses.
These waves have the appearance, in high speed
photos, similar to ripples in a smooth pond of
water as a pebble is thrown
in. These detonation waves must meet or exceed certain strength
and rate
requirements to detonate a particular charge or explosive. Each explosive
has a
different requirement for detonation from the blasting cap
standpoint. A good rule of thumb
for any explosive is to use more blasting
cap than is needed. This is a good idea as most
explosives can be
overdriven with a larger than needed detonator. By overdriven, I mean
that
an abnormally high detonation rate can be achieved as the high speed
detonation
from the cap will carry over in the explosive.
Many people with whom I have conversed, have
mentioned pipe bombs
that are made by filling a pipe with either black powder or smokeless
deflagration nature
of this type ordinance. Deflagration is the simple
burning of a propellant or explosive. This
will generate pressure great
enough to rupture the container (pipe) and no more. 2"
schedule 40 pipe
will rupture at approximately 7144 P.S.I. If black powder or smokeless
powder is being used, this is the maximum pressure a pipe bomb would
generate. If this same
pipe were filled with powdered ammonium nitrate-fuel
oil explosive and detonated with a
blasting cap with an approximate
pressure of detonation of 600,000 P.S.I. plus. This same set
up (cap
initiated) with "Bullseye" brand smokeless powder from Hercules Inc.
Wilmington Delaware as a pipe filler with a blasting cap will generate
approximately 2,000,000
P.S.I. plus detonation pressure. This amounts to an
8300% and 28000% increase over
deflagration respectively. As these figures
prove, true detonation is awesome and an
unbelievable increase over simple
propellant deflagration explosive fillers. Most of the high
CHNO explosive
groups will make the transition from deflagration to detonation. Usually
this transition will require the build up of a good deal of pressure. The
ammonium nitrate
cargos of the High Flyer and Grandcamp are said to possibly
have undergone this type of
deflagration to detonation transition. This
transitions, caused the detonation of their cargos
of thousands of tons of
fertilizer grade ammonium nitrate. This detonation in Texas City,
Texas
Harbor, in 1947 generated 50 million dollars damage and jiggled seismograph
needles in Denver, Colorado. This was the largest nonnuclear explosion in
U.S. history.
As mentioned earlier we have explained that detonation is a shock
wave introduced chemical
reaction. This detonation wave, and what happens,
is perhaps explained easier in the drawing
below. In this drawing the zone
in front of the shocK wave is the unreacted zone. Behind this
zone, the
shock wave is seen. This area of the shock wave is called the "Shock
zone."
This is the mechanical shock wave that originated at the detonator. This
shock zone is usually 0.00001 cm long. The "chemical reaction zone"
immediately
follows the shock zone. The shock zone is the point of the
highest pressure of the detonation.
The "chemical reaction zone" is the
part of the detonation zone that has the highest
temperature and velocity.
This chemical reaction zone is where the actual chemical reactions
of the
detonation, and the subsequent detonation byproducts are produced. This
zone does
not actually include the detonation byproducts because the
reactions are not complete. This
chemical reaction zone is usually 0.1 to
1.0 cm long. One of the characteristic differences of
deflagration and
detonation is the flow of the byproducts. In deflagration the products
flow
from the combustion zone. In detonation the products flow toward the shock
zone.
the explosive at a much
slower than normal rate. This is called low order
detonation. Nitroglycerin, one of the most
powerful explosives known, still
has this undesirable trait. "Nitro" can detonate
with high order detonation
rates of over 8000 M/sec. while low order detonation can be as low
at 1500
M/sec..
Density of explosives have a great bearing on the rate of the
detonation zone than the explosive mass. Every explosive has a greater
detonation velocity
with respect to the density. These are fixed and
unchangeable under ideal conditions. Usually,
the greater the density, the
higher the detonation rate. Also, the higher the density, the
lower the
sensitivity. These statements, of course, are generalizations and will not
hold true always. In a classic sense they give somewhat of an idea as to
the way explosives
perform.
As this is a field of explosive that can become a lifelong study,
we won't
attempt to give course in these theories. It is good, however, to
understand why explosives
perform the way they do so that maximum use could
be had from them. The theory above is the
hydrodynamic theory of
detonation. This is the most generally accepted of the explosive
detonation
theories. For further reading here are two good books:
DETONATION AND
TWO-PHASE FLOW
Vol. 6 of "Progress in Astronautics and Rocketry"
by S.S.
Penner & B.P. Mullins Academic Press (NY NY)
SCIENCE OF HIGH EXPLOSIVES
by
M.A. Cook
Available from Information Publishing
For the purpose of this book we
will cover two different types of
explosives. Primary and base explosives, with respect to
blasting cap
manufacture and the manufacture of these explosives.
Primary explosives are
usually sensitive to shock, friction, and
heat. They are used to detonate the base charge in
blasting caps. These
explosives are used due to the ability of the primary explosive to make
an
easy and quick transition to detonation. As a general rule, these
explosives require
very little confinement to make the deflagration to
detonation transition.
The
detonation wave set up by the primary explosive is the
beginning of the detonation process.
This primary shock wave will detonate
the base charge in the caps. The base charge of the cap
is normally R.D.X.
or some other high explosive. The base charge needs to be powerful and
The 6700 M/sec. plus base
charge detonation velocity, will set off
the main charge and with lower velocity explosive
will overdrive them by
sending such a high velocity shock wave through the explosive.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------CHAPTER
EIGHT [NUCLEAR WEAPONS]
——————————————————————————————-
HOW TO BUILD AN H-BOMB
———————-
Making and owning an H-bomb is the
kind of challenge real Americans seek. Who wants to be a passive victim of nuclear war when with a
little effort you can be an active participant? Bomb shelters are for losers. Who wants to huddle
together underground eating canned Spam? Winners want to push the button themselves. Making your own
H- bomb is a big step in nuclear assertiveness training – it’s called Taking Charge. We’re sure
you’ll enjoy the risks and the heady thrill of playing nuclear chicken.
INTRODUCTION
When the Feds clamped down on The Progressive magazine for attempting to
publish an article on the manufacture of the hydrogen bomb, it piqued our curiosity. Was it really
true that atomic and hydrogen bomb technology was so simple you could build an H-bomb in your own
kitchen? Seven Days decided to find out. Food editor Barbara Ehrenreich, investigative reporter
Peter Biskind, Photographer Jane Melnick and nuclear scientist Michio Kaku were given three days to
cook up a workable H-bomb. They did and we have decided to share their culinary secrets with you.
Not that Seven Days supports nuclear terrorism. We don’t. We would prefer to die slowly from
familiar poisons like low-level radiation, microwaves, DDT, DBCP, aflatoxins, PBBs, PBCs, or food
dyes, rather than unexpectedly, say as hostage to a Latvian nationalist brandishing a homemade bomb.
In our view the real terrorists are the governments, American, Soviet, French, Chinese, and British,
that are hoarding H-bombs for their own use, and worse still, those governments (U.S., French and
German) that are eagerly peddling advanced nuclear technology to countries like South Africa,
Brazil, and Argentina so that they can make their own bombs. When these bombs are used, and they
will be, it will be the world’s big-time nuclear peddlers, along with corporate suppliers like
General Electric, Westinghouse, and Gulf Oil, that we can thank for it. Gagging The Progressive will
do no more for national security than backyard bomb shelters because like it or not the news is out.
The heart of the successful H-bomb is the successful A-bomb. Once you’ve got your A- bombs made the
rest if frosting on the cake. All you have to do is set them up so that when they detonate they’ll
start off a hydrogen-fusion reaction.
PART I: MAKING YOUR BOMB
1. GETTING
THE INGREDIENTS
Uranium is the basic ingredient of the A-bomb. When a uranium atom’s nucleus
splits apart it releases a tremendous amount of energy (for its size). And it emits neutrons which
go on to split other nearby uranium nuclei, releasing more energy, in what is called a ‘chain
reaction’. (When atoms split matter is converted into energy according to Einstein’s equation E=mc2.
What better way to mark his centennial than with your own atomic fireworks?)
There are two
kinds (isotopes) of uranium: the rare U-235, used in bombs, and the more common, heavier, but
useless U-238. Natural uranium contains less than 1 percent U-235 and in order to be usable in bombs
it has to be ‘enriched’ to 90 percent U-235 and only 10 percent U-238. Plutonium-239 can also be
used in bombs as a substitute for U-235. Ten pounds of U-235 (or slightly less plutonium) is all
that is necessary for a bomb. Less than ten pounds won’t give you a critical mass. So purifying or
enriching naturally occurring uranium is likely to be your first big hurdle. It is infinitely easy
to steal ready-to-use enriched uranium or plutonium than to enrich some yourself. And stealing
uranium is not as hard as it sounds.
There are at least three sources of enriched uranium or
plutonium..
Enriched uranium is manufactured at a gaseous diffusion plant in Portsmouth Ohio.
From there it is shipped in 10 liter bottles by airplane and trucks to conversion plants that turn
it into uranium oxide or uranium metal. Each 10 liter bottle contains 7 kilograms of U-235, and
there are 20 bottles to a typical shipment. Conversion facilities exist at Hematite, Missouri,
Apollo, Pennsylvania, and Erwin, Tennessee. The Kerr-McGee plant at Crescent Oklahoma, where Karen
Silkwood worked, was a conversion plant that ‘lost’ 40 lbs of plutonium. Enriched uranium can be
stolen from these plants or from fuel-fabricating plants like those in New Haven, San Diego, or
Lynchburg, Virginia. (A former Kerr-McGee supervisor, James V. Smith, when asked at the Silkwood
trial if there were any security precautions at the plant to prevent theft, testified that ‘There
were none of any kind, no guards, no fences, no nothing.’)
Plutonium can be obtained from
places like United Nuclear in Pawling, New York, Nuclear Fuel Services in Erwin, Tennessee, General
Electric in Pleasanton, California, Westinghouse in Cheswick, Pennsylvania, Nuclear Materials and
Equipment Corporation (NUMEC) in Leechburg, Pennsylvania, and plants in Hanfford, Washington and
Morris, Illinois. According to Rolling Stone magazine the Isrealis were involved in the theft of
plutonium from NUMEC.
Finally you can steal enriched uranium or plutonium while it’s en-route
from conversion plants to fuel fabricating plants. It is usually transported (by air or truck) in
the form of uranium oxide, a brownish powder resembling instant coffee, or as a metal, coming in
small chunks called ‘broken buttons.’ Both forms are shipped in small cans stacked in 5-inch
cylinders braced with welded struts in the center of ordinary 55 gallon steel drums. The drums weigh
about 100 pounds and are clearly marked ‘Fissible Material’ or ‘Danger, Plutonium.’ A typical
shipment might go from the enrichment plant at Portsmouth, Ohio to the conversion plant in Hematite
Missouri then to Kansas City by truck where it would be flown to Los Angeles and then trucked down
to the General Atomic plant in San Diego. The plans for the General Atomic plant are on file at the
Nuclear Regulatory Commission’s reading room at 1717 H Street NW Washington. A Xerox machine is
provided for the convenience of the public.
If you can’t get hold of any enriched uranium
you’ll have to settle for commercial grade (20 percent U-235). This can be stolen from university
reactors of a type called TRIGA Mark II, where security is even more casual than at commercial
plants. If stealing uranium seems too tacky you can buy it. Unenriched uranium is available at any
chemical supply house for $23 a pound. Commercial,grade (3 to 20 percent enriched) is available for
$40 a pound from Gulf Atomic. You’ll have to enrich it further yourself. Quite frankly this can be
something of a pain in the ass. You’ll need to start with a little more than 50 pounds of
commercial-grade uranium (it’s only 20 percent U-235 at best, and you need 10 pounds of U-235
so…). But with a little kitchen-table chemistry you’ll be able to convert the solid uranium oxide
you’ve purchased into a liquid form. Once you’ve done that, you’ll be able to separate the U-235
that you’ll need from the U-238.
First pour a few gallons of concentrated hydrofluoric acid
into your uranium oxide, converting it to uranium tetrafluoride. (Safety note: Concentrated
hydrofluoric acid is so corrosive that it will eat its way through glass, so store it only in
plastic. Used 2-gallon plastic milk containers will do.) Now you have to convert your uranium
tetrafluoride to uranium hexafluoride, the gaseous form of uranium, which is convenient for
separating out the isotope U-235 from U-238.
To get the hexafluoride form, bubble fluorine
gas into your container of uranium tetrafluoride. Fluorine is available in pressurized tanks from
chemical-supply firms. Be careful how you use it though because fluorine is several times more
deadly than chlorine, the classic World War I poison gas. Chemists recommend that you carry out this
step under a stove hood (the kind used to remove unpleasant cooking odors).
If you’ve done
your chemistry right you should now have a generous supply of uranium hexafluoride ready for
enriching. In the old horse-and-buggy days of A-bomb manufacture the enrichment was carried out by
passing the uranium hexafluoride through hundreds of miles of pipes, tubes, and membranes, until the
U-235 was eventually separated from the U-238. This gaseous-diffusion process, as it was called is
difficult, time-consuming, and expensive. Gaseous-diffusion plants cover hundreds of acres and cost
in the neighborhood of $2- billion each. So forget it. There are easier and cheaper ways to enrich
your uranium.
First transform the gas into a liquid by subjecting it to pressure. You can use
a bicycle pump for this. Then make a simple home centrifuge. Fill a standard-size bucket one-quarter
full of liquid uranium hexafluoride. Attach a six-foot rope to the bucket handle. Now swing the rope
(and attached bucket) around your head as fast as possible. Keep this up for about 45 minutes. Slow
down gradually, and very gently put the bucket on the floor. The U-235, which is lighter, will have
risen to the top, where it can be skimmed off like cream. Repeat this step until you have the
required 10 pounds of uranium. (Safety note: Don’t put all your enriched uranium hexafluoride in one
bucket. Use at least two or three buckets and keep them in separate corners of the room. This will
prevent the premature build-up of a critical mass.)
Now it’s time to convert your enriched
uranium back to metal form. This is easily enough accomplished by spooning several ladlefuls of
calcium (available in tablet form from your drugstore) into each bucket of uranium. The calcium will
react with the uranium hexafluoride to produce calcium fluoride, a colorless salt which can be
easily be separated from your pure enriched uranium metal.
A few precautions. Uranium is not
dangerously radioactive in the amounts you’ll be handling. If you plan to make more than one bomb it
might be wise to wear gloves and a lead apron, the kind you can buy in dental supply stores.
Plutonium is one of the most toxic substances known. If inhaled a thousandth of a gram can cause
massive fibrosis of the lungs, a painful way to go. Even a millionth of a gram in the lungs will
cause cancer. If eaten plutonium is metabolized like calcium. It goes straight to the bones where it
gives out alpha particles preventing bone marrow from manufacturing red blood cells. The best way to
avoid inhaling plutonium is to hold your breath while handling it. If this is too difficult wear a
mask. To avoid ingesting plutonium orally follow this simple rule: never make an A-bomb on an empty
stomach.
If you find yourself dozing off while you’re working or if you begin to glow in the
dark, it might be wise to take a blood count. Prick your finger with a sterile pin, place a drop of
blood on a microscope slide, cover it with a cover slip, and examine under a microscope (best
results are got in the early morning). When you get leukemia, immature cells are released into the
bloodstream, and usually the number of white cells increases (though this increase might take almost
2 weeks). Red blood cells look kind of like donuts (without the hole), and are slightly smaller than
the white cells, each of which has a nucleus. Immature red cells look similar to white cells (ie.
slightly larger and have a nucleus). If you have more than about 1 white cell (including immatures)
to 400 red cells then start to worry. But depending upon your eventual use of the bomb, a short life
expectancy might not be a problem.
2. ASSEMBLING THE A-BOMB
Now that you’ve acquired
the enriched uranium, all that’s left is to assemble your A-bomb. Go find a couple of stainless
steel salad bowls. You also want to separate your 10 pounds of U-235 into two hunks (keep them
apart!). The idea is to push each half your uranium into the inside of a bowl.
Take one hunk
of your uranium and beat it into the inside of the first bowl. Uranium is malleable, like gold, so
you should have no trouble hammering it into the bowl to get a good fit. Take another five-pound
hunk of uranium and fit it into a second stainless steel bowl. These two bowls of U-235 are the
’subcritical masses’ which together forcefully will provide the critical mass that makes your A-
bomb go. Keep them a respectful distance apart while working because you don’t want them to ‘go
critical’ on you.. at least not yet.
Now hollow out the body of an old vacuum cleaner and
place your two hemispherical bowls inside, open ends facing each other, no less than seven inches
apart, using masking tape to set them up in position. The reason for the steel bowls and the vacuum
cleaner, in case you’re wondering, is that these help reflect the neutrons back into the uranium for
a more efficient explosion. ‘A loose neutron is a useless neutron’ as the A-bomb pioneers used to
say.
As far as the A-bomb goes you’re almost done. The final problem is to figure out how to
get the two U-235 hemispheres to smash into each other with sufficient force to set off a truly
effective fission reaction. Almost any type of explosive can be used to drive them together.
Gunpowder, for example, is easily made at home from potassium nitrate, sulfur, and carbon. Or you
can get some blasting caps or TNT, buy them or steal them from a construction site. Best of all is
C4 plastic explosive. You can mold it around your bowls and it’s fairly safe to work with (but it
might be wise to shape it around an extra salad bowl in another room and then fit it to your
stainless steel bowls).
Once the explosives are in place all you need to do is hook up a
simple detonation device with a few batteries, a switch, and some wire. Remember though that it is
essential that the two charges, one on each side of the casing, go off at once. Now put the whole
thing in the casing of an old Hoover vacuum cleaner and you’re finished with this part of the
process. The rest is easy.
3. MAKE THREE MORE A-BOMBS FOLLOWING THE DIRECTIONS ABOVE
A
WORD TO THE WISE ABOUT WASTES
After your A-bomb is completed you’ll have a pile of moderately
fatal radioactive wastes like U-238. These are not dangerous, but you do have to get rid of them.
You can flush leftovers down the toilet (don’t worry about polluting the ocean, there is already so
much radioactive waste there, a few more bucketfuls won’t make waves), or if your the fastidious
type, the kind who never leaves gum under their seat at the movies, you can seal the nasty stuff in
coffee cans and bury it in the backyard, just like Uncle Sam does. If the neighbors’ kids have a
habit of trampling the lawn, tell them to play over by the waste. You’ll soon find that they’re
spending most of their time in bed.
GOING FIRST CLASS
If you’re like us, you’re feeling
the economic pinch, and you’ll want to make your bomb as inexpensively as possible, consonant of
course with reasonable yield. The recipe we’ve given is for a budget, pleasing H-bomb, no frills, no
flourishes, just your basic 5-megaton bomb, capable of wiping out the New York metropolitan area,
the Bay area, or Boston. But don’t forget, your H-bomb will only be as good as the A-bombs in it.
If you want to spend a little more money you can punch-up your A- bomb considerably. Instead
of centrifuging your uranium by hand, you can buy a commercial centrifuge (Fisher Scientific sells
one for about $1000). You also might want to be fussier about your design. The Hiroshima bomb, a
relatively crude one, only fissioned 1 percent of it’s uranium and yielded only 13 kilotons. In
order to fission more of the uranium, the force of your explosive ‘trigger’ has got to be evenly
diffused around the sphere, the same pressure has to be exerted on every point of the sphere
simultaneously. (It was a technique for producing this sort of simultaneous detonation by fashioning
the explosives into lenses that the government accused Julius and Ethel Rosenberg of trying to
steal).
PART II: PUTTING YOUR H-BOMB TOGETHER
The heart of the H-bomb is
the fusion process. Several A-bombs are detonated in such a way as to create the extremely high
temperature (100 million degrees C) necessary to fuse lithium deuteride (LiD) into helium. When the
lithium nucleus slams into the deuterium nucleus, two helium nuclei are created, and if this happens
to enough deuterium nuclei rapidly enough the result is an enormous amount of energy, the energy of
the H-bomb. And you don’t have to worry about stealing lithium deuteride, it can be purchased from
any chemical-supply house. It costs $1000 a pound. If your budget won’t allow it you can substitute
lithium hydride at $40 a pound. You will need at least 100 pounds. It’s a corrosive and toxic powder
so be careful.
Place the lithium deuteride or hydride in glass jars and surround it with four
A-bombs in their casings. Attach them to the same detonator so that they will go off simultaneously.
The container for the whole thing is no problem. They can be placed anywhere (inside an old stereo
console, a discarded refrigerator, etc.).
When the detonator sets off the four A-bombs all
eight hemispheres of fissionable material will slam into each other at the same time creating four
critical masses and four detonations. This will raise the temperature of the lithium deuteride to
100 million degrees C fast enough (a few billionths of a second) so that the lithium will not be
blown all over the neighborhood before the nuclei have time to fuse. The result, at least 1000 times
the punch of the puny A-bomb that leveled Hiroshima (20 million tons of TNT vs. 20 thousand tons.)
PART III: WHAT TO DO WITH YOUR BOMB
Now that you have a fully assembled
H-bomb housed in an attractive console of your choice you may be wondering, What should I do with
it? Every family will have to answer this question according to its own tastes and preferences but
you may want to explore some possibilities which have been successfully pioneered by the American
government.
1. SELL YOUR BOMB AND MAKE A PILE OF MONEY
In these days of rising
inflation, rising unemployment, and an uncertain economic outlook, few businesses make as much sense
as weapons production. If your career forecast is cloudy, bomb sales may be the only sure way to
avoid the humiliation of receiving welfare or unemployment. At any income level a home H-bomb
business can be an invaluable income supplement, and certainly a profitable alternative to selling
Tupperware or pirated Girl Scout cookies.
Unfortunately for the family bomb business, big
government has already cornered a large part of the world market. But this does not mean that there
is a shortage of potential customers. The raid on Entebee was the Waterloo of hijacking, and many
nationalist groups are now on the alert for new means to get their message across. They’d jump at
the chance to get hold of an H-bomb. Emerging nations that can’t ante up enough rice or sugar to buy
themselves a reactor from G.E. or Westinghouse are also shopping around.
You may wonder about
the ethics of selling to nations or groups whose goal you disapprove of. But here again take a tip
from our government, forget ideology – it’s cash that counts. And remember, H- bomb sales have a way
of escalating, almost like a chain reaction. Suppose you make a sale to South Yemen which you
believe to be a Soviet puppet. Well within a few days some discrete inquiries from North Yemen and
possibly the Saudis, the Egyptians and the Ethiopians as well can be expected. Similarly, a sale to
the IRA will generate a sale to the Ulster government, a sale to the Tanzanians will bring the
Ugandans running and so forth.
It doesn’t matter which side you’re on, only how many sides
there are. Don’t forget about the possibility of repeat sales to the same customer. As the
experience of the U.S. and the U.S.S.R. has shown, each individual nation has a potentially infinite
need for H-bombs. No customer, no matter how small, can ever have too many.
2. USE YOUR BOMB
AT HOME
Many families are attracted to the H-bomb simply as a ‘deterrent’. A discrete sticker
on the door or on the living room window saying ‘This Home Protected by H-bomb’ will discourage IRS
investigators, census takers, and Jehovah’s Witnesses. You’ll be surprised how fast the crime rate
will go down and property values will go up. And once the news gets out that you are a home H-bomb
owner you’ll find that you have unexpected leverage in neighborhood disputes over everything from
parking places and stereo noise levels to school tax rates. So relax and enjoy the pride and
excitement of home H-bomb ownership!
IS IT FOR YOU?
Let’s be honest. The H-bomb isn’t
for everyone. Frankly there are people who can’t handle it. They break out in hives at the very
mention of mega-deaths, fallout, radiation sickness.
The following quiz will help you find
out whether you have what it takes for home H-bomb ownership. If you can answer ‘yes’ to six or more
of these questions, then your emotionally eligible to join the nuclear club. If not, a more
conventional weapon may be more your cup of tea, try botulism-toxin, laser rays, or nerve gas.
2. I subscribe to one or more of the following: Soldier
of Fortune, Hustler, Popular Mechanics, Self.
3. Though I have many interesting
acquaintances, I am my own best friend.
4. I know what to say after you say ‘Hello’, but I am
seldom interested in pursuing the conversation.
5. I have seen the movie ‘The Deer Hunter’
more than once.
6. I know that everyone can be a winner if they want to, and I resent
whiners.
7. I own one or more of the following: handgun, video game, trash compactor,
snowmobile.
8. I am convinced that leukemia is psychosomatic.
9. I am aware that most
vegetarians are sexually impotent.
10. I have read evidence that solar energy is a Communist
conspiracy.
Atomic Weapons
———————-
——————————–
File courtesy of Outlaw Labs
——————————–
============================================================================
————————————————-
– Documentation and Diagrams of the Atomic
Bomb -
————————————————-
============================================================================
______________
<-} DISCLAIMER {->
\______________/
The information contained
in this file is strictly for academic use
alone. Outlaw Labs will bear no responsibility for
any use otherwise. It
would be wise to note that the personnel who design and construct
these
devices are skilled physicists and are more knowledgeable in these matters
than
any layperson can ever hope to be… Should a layperson attempt to
build a device such as
this, chances are s/he would probably kill his/herself
not by a nuclear detonation, but rather
through radiation exposure. We here
at Outlaw Labs do not recommend using this file beyond the
realm of casual or
academic curiosity.
============================================================================
———————–
-+ Table of Contents +-
———————–
——————————
A). Development (The
Manhattan Project)
B). Detonation
1). Hiroshima
2). Nagasaki
3). Byproducts
of atomic detonations
4). Blast Zones
II. Nuclear Fission/Nuclear
Fusion
——————————
A). Fission (A-Bomb) & Fusion (H-Bomb)
B). U-235, U-238 and Plutonium
III. The Mechanism of The Bomb
————————-
A). Altimeter
B). Air Pressure Detonator
C). Detonating
Head(s)
D). Explosive Charge(s)
E). Neutron Deflector
F). Uranium &
Plutonium
G). Lead Shield
H). Fuses
IV. The Diagram of The Bomb
A). The Uranium Bomb
B). The Plutonium Bomb
============================================================================
——————————–
File courtesy of Outlaw Labs
——————————–
I. The History of the Atomic Bomb
——————————
On August 2nd 1939, just before the beginning of World
War II, Albert
Einstein wrote to then President Franklin D. Roosevelt. Einstein and several
with which might
in turn be used to build an atomic bomb. It was shortly
thereafter that the United States
Government began the serious undertaking
known only then as the Manhattan Project. Simply put,
the Manhattan Project
was committed to expedient research and production that would produce a
viable
atomic bomb.
The most complicated issue to be addressed was the production
of ample
amounts of `enriched’ uranium to sustain a chain reaction. At the time,
Uranium-235 was very hard to extract. In fact, the ratio of conversion from
Uranium ore to
Uranium metal is 500:1. An additional drawback is that the 1
part of Uranium that is finally
refined from the ore consists of over 99%
Uranium-238, which is practically useless for an
atomic bomb. To make it even
more difficult, U-235 and U-238 are precisely similar in their
chemical
makeup. This proved to be as much of a challenge as separating a solution of
sucrose from a solution of glucose. No ordinary chemical extraction could
separate the two
isotopes. Only mechanical methods could effectively separate
U-235 from U-238. Several
scientists at Columbia University managed to solve
this dilemma.
A massive
enrichment laboratory/plant was constructed at Oak Ridge,
Tennessee. H.C. Urey, along with his
associates and colleagues at Columbia
University, devised a system that worked on the
principle of gaseous
diffusion. Following this process, Ernest O. Lawrence (inventor of the
involving
magnetic separation of the two isotopes.
Following the first two processes, a gas
centrifuge was used to further
separate the lighter U-235 from the heavier non-fissionable
U-238 by their
mass. Once all of these procedures had been completed, all that needed to be
more information
on these procedures of refining Uranium, see Section 3.]
Over the course of six years,
ranging from 1939 to 1945, more than 2
billion dollars were spent on the Manhattan Project.
The formulas for
refining Uranium and putting together a working bomb were created and seen
to
their logical ends by some of the greatest minds of our time. Among these
people who
unleashed the power of the atomic bomb was J. Robert Oppenheimer.
Oppenheimer was the
major force behind the Manhattan Project. He
literally ran the show and saw to it that all of
the great minds working on
this project made their brainstorms work. He oversaw the entire
project from
its conception to its completion.
Finally the day came when all at
Los Alamos would find out whether or not
The Gadget (code-named as such during its
development) was either going to be
the colossal dud of the century or perhaps end the war. It
all came down to
a fateful morning of midsummer, 1945.
At 5:29:45 (Mountain War
Time) on July 16th, 1945, in a white blaze that
stretched from the basin of the Jemez
Mountains in northern New Mexico to the
still-dark skies, The Gadget ushered in the Atomic
Age. The light of the
explosion then turned orange as the atomic fireball began shooting
upwards at
360 feet per second, reddening and pulsing as it cooled. The characteristic
mushroom cloud of radioactive vapor materialized at 30,000 feet. Beneath the
cloud, all that
remained of the soil at the blast site were fragments of jade
green radioactive glass. …All
of this caused by the heat of the reaction.
The brilliant light from the detonation
pierced the early morning skies
with such intensity that residents from a faraway neighboring
community would
swear that the sun came up twice that day. Even more astonishing is that a
Upon witnessing the explosion, reactions
among the people who created
it were mixed. Isidor Rabi felt that the equilibrium in nature
had been
upset — as if humankind had become a threat to the world it inhabited.
J.
Robert Oppenheimer, though ecstatic about the success of the project,
quoted a remembered
fragment from Bhagavad Gita. "I am become Death," he
said, "the destroyer of
worlds." Ken Bainbridge, the test director, told
Oppenheimer, "Now we’re all sons of
bitches."
Several participants, shortly after viewing the results, signed
petitions
against loosing the monster they had created, but their protests fell on deaf
ears. As it later turned out, the Jornada del Muerto of New Mexico was not
the last site on
planet Earth to experience an atomic explosion.
As many know, atomic bombs have been
used only twice in warfare. The
first and foremost blast site of the atomic bomb is Hiroshima.
A Uranium
bomb (which weighed in at over 4 & 1/2 tons) nicknamed "Little Boy"
was
dropped on Hiroshima August 6th, 1945. The Aioi Bridge, one of 81 bridges
connecting
the seven-branched delta of the Ota River, was the aiming point of
the bomb. Ground Zero was
set at 1,980 feet. At 0815 hours, the bomb was
dropped from the Enola Gay. It missed by only
800 feet. At 0816 hours, in
the flash of an instant, 66,000 people were killed and 69,000
people were
injured by a 10 kiloton atomic explosion.
The point of total
vaporization from the blast measured one half of a
mile in diameter. Total destruction ranged
at one mile in diameter. Severe
blast damage carried as far as two miles in diameter. At two
and a half
miles, everything flammable in the area burned. The remaining area of the
blast zone was riddled with serious blazes that stretched out to the final
edge at a little
over three miles in diameter. [See diagram below for blast
ranges from the atomic blast.]
On August 9th 1945, Nagasaki fell to the same treatment as Hiroshima.
Only this
time, a Plutonium bomb nicknamed "Fat Man" was dropped on the city.
Even though the
"Fat Man" missed by over a mile and a half, it still leveled
nearly half the city.
Nagasaki’s population dropped in one split-second from
422,000 to 383,000. 39,000 were killed,
over 25,000 were injured. That
blast was less than 10 kilotons as well. Estimates from
physicists who have
studied each atomic explosion state that the bombs that were used had
utilized
only 1/10th of 1 percent of their respective explosive capabilities.
While the mere explosion from an atomic bomb is deadly enough, its
destructive ability doesn’t
stop there. Atomic fallout creates another hazard
as well. The rain that follows any atomic
detonation is laden with
radioactive particles. Many survivors of the Hiroshima and Nagasaki
blasts
succumbed to radiation poisoning due to this occurance.
The atomic
detonation also has the hidden lethal surprise of affecting
the future generations of those
who live through it. Leukemia is among the
greatest of afflictions that are passed on to the
offspring of survivors.
While the main purpose behind the atomic bomb is obvious, there
are many
by-products that have been brought into consideration in the use of all
weapons
atomic. With one small atomic bomb, a massive area’s communications,
travel and machinery will
grind to a dead halt due to the EMP (Electro-
Magnetic Pulse) that is radiated from a
high-altitude atomic detonation.
These high-level detonations are hardly lethal, yet they
deliver a serious
enough EMP to scramble any and all things electronic ranging from copper
wires
all the way up to a computer’s CPU within a 50 mile radius.
At one time,
during the early days of The Atomic Age, it was a popular
notion that one day atomic bombs
would one day be used in mining operations
and perhaps aid in the construction of another
Panama Canal. Needless to say,
it never came about. Instead, the military applications of
atomic destruction
increased. Atomic tests off of the Bikini Atoll and several other sites
were
common up until the Nuclear Test Ban Treaty was introduced. Photos of nuclear
test
sites here in the United States can be obtained through the Freedom of
Information Act.
============================================================================
–
Breakdown of the Atomic Bomb’s Blast Zones -
———————————————-
.
. .
. . .
. .
[5] [4] [5]
.
. .
. .
. . . .
. [3] _ [3] .
. . [2] . .
. _._ .
. .~ ~.
.
. . [4] . .[2]. [1] .[2]. . [4] . .
. . . .
. ~-.-~ .
. . [2] . .
.
[3] – [3] .
. . . .
. ~ ~ .
~
[5] . [4] . [5]
.
.
.
. .
.
============================================================================
– Diagram
Outline -
———————
[1] Vaporization Point
——————
Everything is vaporized by the atomic blast. 98% fatalities.
Overpress=25 psi. Wind velocity=320 mph.
[2] Total Destruction
—————–
All structures above ground are destroyed. 90% fatalities.
Overpress=17 psi. Wind velocity=290 mph.
[3] Severe Blast Damage
——————-
Factories and other large-scale building collapse. Severe damage
to
highway bridges. Rivers sometimes flow countercurrent.
65% fatalities, 30% injured.
Overpress=9 psi. Wind velocity=260 mph.
[4] Severe Heat Damage
——————
Everything flammable burns. People in the area suffocate due to
the
fact that most available oxygen is consumed by the fires.
50% fatalities, 45% injured.
Overpress=6 psi. Wind velocity=140 mph.
[5] Severe Fire & Wind Damage
————————-
Residency structures are severely damaged. People are blown
around. 2nd and 3rd-degree burns suffered by most survivors.
15% dead. 50% injured.
Overpress=3 psi. Wind velocity=98 mph.
—————————————————————————-
– Blast
Zone Radii -
———————-
[3 different bomb types]
____________________________________________________________________________
______________________ ______________________ ______________________
| | | | | |
| -[10
KILOTONS]- | | -[1 MEGATON]- | | -[20 MEGATONS]- |
|———————-|
|———————-| |———————-|
| Airburst – 1,980 ft | | Airburst – 8,000
ft | | Airburst – 17,500 ft |
|______________________| |______________________|
|______________________|
| | | | | |
| [1] 0.5 miles | | [1] 2.5 miles | | [1] 8.75
miles |
| [2] 1 mile | | [2] 3.75 miles | | [2] 14 miles |
| [3] 1.75 miles | | [3] 6.5
miles | | [3] 27 miles |
| [4] 2.5 miles | | [4] 7.75 miles | | [4] 31 miles |
| [5] 3
miles | | [5] 10 miles | | [5] 35 miles |
| | | | | |
|______________________|
|______________________| |______________________|
____________________________________________________________________________
============================================================================
-End of section 1-
——————————–
File courtesy of
Outlaw Labs
——————————–
II. Nuclear Fission/Nuclear
Fusion
——————————
There are 2 types of atomic
explosions that can be facilitated by U-235;
fission and fusion. Fission, simply put, is a
nuclear reaction in which an
atomic nucleus splits into fragments, usually two fragments of
comparable
mass, with the evolution of approximately 100 million to several hundred
million volts of energy. This energy is expelled explosively and violently in
the atomic bomb.
A fusion reaction is invariably started with a fission
reaction, but unlike the fission
reaction, the fusion (Hydrogen) bomb derives
its power from the fusing of nuclei of various
hydrogen isotopes in the
formation of helium nuclei. Being that the bomb in this file is
strictly
atomic, the other aspects of the Hydrogen Bomb will be set aside for now.
forces that hold
the atom together. These forces are akin to, but not quite
the same as, magnetism.
cluster together to
form the nucleus (central mass) of the atom while the
electrons orbit the nucleus much like
planets around a sun. It is these
particles that determine the stability of the atom.
Most natural elements have very stable atoms which are impossible to
split except by
bombardment by particle accelerators. For all practical
purposes, the one true element whose
atoms can be split comparatively easily
is the metal Uranium. Uranium’s atoms are unusually
large, henceforth, it is
hard for them to hold together firmly. This makes Uranium-235 an
exceptional
candidate for nuclear fission.
Uranium is a heavy metal, heavier than
gold, and not only does it have
the largest atoms of any natural element, the atoms that
comprise Uranium have
far more neutrons than protons. This does not enhance their capacity
to
split, but it does have an important bearing on their capacity to facilitate
an
explosion.
There are two isotopes of Uranium. Natural Uranium consists mostly of
isotope U-238, which has 92 protons and 146 neutrons (92+146=238). Mixed with
this isotope,
one will find a 0.6% accumulation of U-235, which has only 143
neutrons. This isotope, unlike
U-238, has atoms that can be split, thus it is
termed "fissionable" and useful in
making atomic bombs. Being that U-238 is
neutron-heavy, it reflects neutrons, rather than
absorbing them like its
brother isotope, U-235. (U-238 serves no function in an atomic
reaction, but
its properties provide an excellent shield for the U-235 in a constructed
bomb
as a neutron reflector. This helps prevent an accidental chain reaction
between the
larger U-235 mass and its `bullet’ counterpart within the bomb.
Also note that while U-238
cannot facilitate a chain-reaction, it can be
neutron-saturated to produce Plutonium (Pu-239).
Plutonium is fissionable and
can be used in place of Uranium-235 {albeit, with a different
model of
detonator} in an atomic bomb. [See Sections 3 & 4 of this file.])
Both isotopes of Uranium are naturally radioactive. Their bulky atoms
disintegrate over a
period of time. Given enough time, (over 100,000 years or
more) Uranium will eventually lose
so many particles that it will turn into
the metal lead. However, this process can be
accelerated. This process is
known as the chain reaction. Instead of disintegrating slowly,
the atoms are
forcibly split by neutrons forcing their way into the nucleus. A U-235 atom
henceforth bring
on a chain reaction. This can happen even when a critical
mass is present. When this chain
reaction occurs, the Uranium atom splits
into two smaller atoms of different elements, such as
Barium and Krypton.
When a U-235 atom splits, it gives off energy in the form of heat
and
Gamma radiation, which is the most powerful form of radioactivity and the most
lethal. When this reaction occurs, the split atom will also give off two or
three of its
`spare’ neutrons, which are not needed to make either Barium or
Krypton. These spare neutrons
fly out with sufficient force to split other
atoms they come in contact with. [See chart
below] In theory, it is
necessary to split only one U-235 atom, and the neutrons from this
will split
other atoms, which will split more…so on and so forth. This progression
does not take place arithmetically, but geometrically. All of this will
happen within a
millionth of a second.
The minimum amount to start a chain reaction as described above
is known
as SuperCritical Mass. The actual mass needed to facilitate this chain
reaction
depends upon the purity of the material, but for pure U-235, it is
110 pounds (50 kilograms),
but no Uranium is never quite pure, so in reality
more will be needed.
Uranium is
not the only material used for making atomic bombs. Another
material is the element Plutonium,
in its isotope Pu-239. Plutonium is not
found naturally (except in minute traces) and is
always made from Uranium.
The only way to produce Plutonium from Uranium is to process U-238
through a
nuclear reactor. After a period of time, the intense radioactivity causes the
metal to pick up extra particles, so that more and more of its atoms turn into
Plutonium.
Plutonium will not start a fast chain reaction by itself, but this
difficulty is
overcome by having a neutron source, a highly radioactive
material that gives off neutrons
faster than the Plutonium itself. In certain
types of bombs, a mixture of the elements
Beryllium and Polonium is used to
bring about this reaction. Only a small piece is needed. The
material is not
fissionable in and of itself, but merely acts as a catalyst to the greater
============================================================================
–
Diagram of a Chain Reaction -
——————————-
|
|
|
[1]——————————> o
. o o .
.
o_0_o . <———————–[2]
. o 0 o .
. o o .
|
\|/
~
. o o. .o o .
[3]———————–> . o_0_o"o_0_o .
. o 0
o~o 0 o .
. o o.".o o .
|
/ | \
|/_ | _\|
~~ | ~~
|
o
o | o o
[4]—————–> o_0_o | o_0_o <—————[5]
o~0~o | o~0~o
/ o \
/ [1] \
/ \
/ \
/ \
o [1] [1] o
. o
o . . o o . . o o .
. o_0_o . . o_0_o . . o_0_o .
. o 0 o . <-[2]-> . o 0 o .
<-[2]-> . o 0 o .
. o o . . o o . . o o .
/ | \
|/_ \|/ _\|
~~
~ ~~
. o o. .o o . . o o. .o o . . o o. .o o .
. o_0_o"o_0_o . .
o_0_o"o_0_o . . o_0_o"o_0_o .
. o 0 o~o 0 o . <–[3]–> . o 0 o~o 0 o .
<–[3]–> . o 0 o~o 0 o .
. o o.".o o . . o o.".o o . . o o.".o o .
. | . . | . . | .
/ | \ / | \ / | \
: | : : | : : | :
: | : : | : : | :
\:/
| \:/ \:/ | \:/ \:/ | \:/
~ | ~ ~ | ~ ~ | ~
[4] o o | o o [5] [4] o o | o o [5] [4] o o
| o o [5]
o_0_o | o_0_o o_0_o | o_0_o o_0_o | o_0_o
o~0~o | o~0~o o~0~o | o~0~o o~0~o |
o~0~o
o o ) | ( o o o o ) | ( o o o o ) | ( o o
/ | \ / | \ / | \
/ | \ / | \ / |
\
/ | \ / | \ / | \
/ | \ / | \ / | \
/ o \ / o \ / o \
/ [1] \ / [1] \ /
[1] \
o o o o o o
[1] [1] [1] [1] [1] [1]
- Diagram Outline -
———————
[1] – Incoming Neutron
[2]
- Uranium-235
[3] – Uranium-236
[4] – Barium Atom
[5] – Krypton Atom
===========================================================================
-End of section 2-
-Diagrams & Documentation of the Atomic Bomb-
——————————–
File courtesy of Outlaw Labs
——————————–
III. The Mechanism of The Bomb
————————-
Altimeter
———
An ordinary
aircraft altimeter uses a type of Aneroid Barometer which
measures the changes in air pressure
at different heights. However, changes
in air pressure due to the weather can adversely affect
the altimeter’s
readings. It is far more favorable to use a radar (or radio) altimeter for
While Frequency
Modulated-Continuous Wave (FM CW) is more complicated,
the accuracy of it far surpasses any
other type of altimeter. Like simple
pulse systems, signals are emitted from a radar aerial
(the bomb), bounced off
the ground and received back at the bomb’s altimeter. This pulse
system
applies to the more advanced altimeter system, only the signal is continuous
and
centered around a high frequency such as 4200 MHz. This signal is
arranged to steadily
increase at 200 MHz per interval before dropping back to
its original frequency.
As the descent of the bomb begins, the altimeter transmitter will send
out a pulse starting at
4200 MHz. By the time that pulse has returned, the
altimeter transmitter will be emitting a
higher frequency. The difference
depends on how long the pulse has taken to do the return
journey. When these
two frequencies are mixed electronically, a new frequency (the
difference
between the two) emerges. The value of this new frequency is measured by the
built-in microchips. This value is directly proportional to the distance
travelled by the
original pulse, so it can be used to give the actual height.
In practice, a typical FM
CW radar today would sweep 120 times per
second. Its range would be up to 10,000 feet (3000 m)
over land and 20,000
feet (6000 m) over sea, since sound reflections from water surfaces
are
clearer.
The accuracy of these altimeters is within 5 feet (1.5 m) for the
higher
ranges. Being that the ideal airburst for the atomic bomb is usually set for
1,980 feet, this error factor is not of enormous concern.
The high cost of these
radar-type altimeters has prevented their use in
commercial applications, but the decreasing
cost of electronic components
should make them competitive with barometric types before too
long.
Air Pressure Detonator
———————-
The air pressure detonator can be a very complex mechanism, but for all
practical purposes, a
simpler model can be used. At high altitudes, the air
is of lesser pressure. As the altitude
drops, the air pressure increases. A
simple piece of very thin magnetized metal can be used as
an air pressure
detonator. All that is needed is for the strip of metal to have a bubble of
underneath the
electrical contact which will trigger the conventional
explosive detonation. Before setting
the strip in place, push the bubble in
so that it will be inverted.
Once the air
pressure has achieved the desired level, the magnetic bubble
will snap back into its original
position and strike the contact, thus
completing the circuit and setting off the
explosive(s).
Detonating Head
—————
The
detonating head (or heads, depending on whether a Uranium or
Plutonium bomb is being used as a
model) that is seated in the conventional
explosive charge(s) is similar to the standard-issue
blasting cap. It merely
serves as a catalyst to bring about a greater explosion. Calibration
of this
device is essential. Too small of a detonating head will only cause a
colossal
dud that will be doubly dangerous since someone’s got to disarm and
re-fit the bomb with
another detonating head. (an added measure of discomfort
comes from the knowledge that the
conventional explosive may have detonated
with insufficient force to weld the radioactive
metals. This will cause a
supercritical mass that could go off at any time.) The detonating
head will
receive an electric charge from the either the air pressure detonator or the
radar altimeter’s coordinating detonator, depending on what type of system is
used. The Du
Pont company makes rather excellent blasting caps that can be
easily modified to suit the
required specifications.
Conventional Explosive Charge(s)
——————————–
This explosive is used to introduce (and weld) the
lesser amount of
Uranium to the greater amount within the bomb’s housing. [The amount of
pressure needed to bring this about is unknown and possibly classified by the
United States
Government for reasons of National Security]
Plastic explosives work best in this
situation since they can be
manipulated to enable both a Uranium bomb and a Plutonium bomb to
detonate.
One very good explosive is Urea Nitrate. The directions on how to make Urea
Nitrate are as follows:
– Ingredients -
—————
[1] 1 cup
concentrated solution of uric acid (C5 H4 N4 O3)
[2] 1/3 cup of nitric acid
[3] 4
heat-resistant glass containers
[4] 4 filters (coffee filters will do)
Filter the concentrated solution of uric acid through a filter to remove
impurities. Slowly
add 1/3 cup of nitric acid to the solution and let the
mixture stand for 1 hour. Filter again
as before. This time the Urea Nitrate
crystals will collect on the filter. Wash the crystals
by pouring water over
them while they are in the filter. Remove the crystals from the filter
and
allow 16 hours for them to dry. This explosive will need a blasting cap to
detonate.
It may be necessary to make a quantity larger than the
aforementioned
list calls for to bring about an explosion great enough to cause the Uranium
Neutron
Deflector
—————–
The neutron deflector is comprised solely of
Uranium-238. Not only is
U-238 non-fissionable, it also has the unique ability to reflect
neutrons back
to their source.
The U-238 neutron deflector can serve 2 purposes.
In a Uranium bomb, the
neutron deflector serves as a safeguard to keep an accidental
supercritical
mass from occurring by bouncing the stray neutrons from the `bullet’
counterpart of the Uranium mass away from the greater mass below it (and vice-
versa). The
neutron deflector in a Plutonium bomb actually helps the wedges
of Plutonium retain their
neutrons by `reflecting’ the stray particles back
into the center of the assembly. [See
diagram in Section 4 of this file.]
Uranium & Plutonium
——————-
Uranium-235 is very difficult to extract. In fact, for every 25,000
tons
of Uranium ore that is mined from the earth, only 50 tons of Uranium metal can
be
refined from that, and 99.3% of that metal is U-238 which is too stable to
be used as an
active agent in an atomic detonation. To make matters even more
complicated, no ordinary
chemical extraction can separate the two isotopes
since both U-235 and U-238 possess precisely
identical chemical
characteristics. The only methods that can effectively separate U-235
from
U-238 are mechanical methods.
U-235 is slightly, but only slightly, lighter
than its counterpart,
U-238. A system of gaseous diffusion is used to begin the separating
process
between the two isotopes. In this system, Uranium is combined with fluorine
to
form Uranium Hexafluoride gas. This mixture is then propelled by low-
pressure pumps through a
series of extremely fine porous barriers. Because
the U-235 atoms are lighter and thus
propelled faster than the U-238 atoms,
they could penetrate the barriers more rapidly. As a
result, the
U-235’s concentration became successively greater as it passed through each
barrier. After passing through several thousand barriers, the Uranium
Hexafluoride contains a
relatively high concentration of U-235 — 2% pure
Uranium in the case of reactor fuel, and if
pushed further could
(theoretically) yield up to 95% pure Uranium for use in an atomic
bomb.
Once the process of gaseous diffusion is finished, the Uranium must be
refined once again. Magnetic separation of the extract from the previous
enriching process is
then implemented to further refine the Uranium. This
involves electrically charging Uranium
Tetrachloride gas and directing it past
a weak electromagnet. Since the lighter U-235
particles in the gas stream are
less affected by the magnetic pull, they can be gradually
separated from the
flow.
Following the first two procedures, a third enrichment
process is then
applied to the extract from the second process. In this procedure, a gas
centrifuge is brought into action to further separate the lighter U-235 from
its heavier
counter-isotope. Centrifugal force separates the two isotopes of
Uranium by their mass. Once
all of these procedures have been completed, all
that need be done is to place the properly
molded components of Uranium-235
inside a warhead that will facilitate an atomic
detonation.
Supercritical mass for Uranium-235 is defined as 110 lbs (50 kgs) of
pure Uranium.
Depending on the refining process(es) used when purifying the U-235
for
use, along with the design of the warhead mechanism and the altitude at which
it
detonates, the explosive force of the A-bomb can range anywhere from 1
kiloton (which equals
1,000 tons of TNT) to 20 megatons (which equals 20
million tons of TNT — which, by the way,
is the smallest strategic nuclear
warhead we possess today. {Point in fact — One Trident
Nuclear Submarine
carries as much destructive power as 25 World War II’s}).
While
Uranium is an ideally fissionable material, it is not the only one.
Plutonium can be used in
an atomic bomb as well. By leaving U-238 inside an
atomic reactor for an extended period of
time, the U-238 picks up extra
particles (neutrons especially) and gradually is transformed
into the element
Plutonium.
Plutonium is fissionable, but not as easily
fissionable as Uranium.
While Uranium can be detonated by a simple 2-part gun-type device,
Plutonium
must be detonated by a more complex 32-part implosion chamber along with a
stronger conventional explosive, a greater striking velocity and a
simultaneous triggering
mechanism for the conventional explosive packs. Along
with all of these requirements comes the
additional task of introducing a fine
mixture of Beryllium and Polonium to this metal while
all of these actions are
occurring.
Supercritical mass for Plutonium is defined
as 35.2 lbs (16 kgs). This
amount needed for a supercritical mass can be reduced to a smaller
quantity of
22 lbs (10 kgs) by surrounding the Plutonium with a U-238 casing.
and a Plutonium
implosion detonator, here is a quick rundown.
============================================================================
[1]
Uranium Detonator
—————–
Comprised of 2 parts. Larger mass is
spherical and concave.
Smaller mass is precisely the size and shape of the `missing’
section of the larger mass. Upon detonation of conventional
explosive, the smaller mass is
violently injected and welded
to the larger mass. Supercritical mass is reached, chain
reaction follows in one millionth of a second.
[2] Plutonium Detonator
——————-
Comprised of 32 individual 45-degree pie-shaped sections of
Plutonium surrounding a Beryllium/Polonium mixture. These 32
sections together form a sphere.
All of these sections must
have the precisely equal mass (and shape) of the others. The
shape of the detonator resembles a soccerball. Upon detonation
of conventional explosives, all
32 sections must merge with the
B/P mixture within 1 ten-millionths of a second.
____________________________________________________________________________
————-
____________________________________________________________________________
|
[Uranium
Detonator] | [Plutonium Detonator]
______________________________________|_____________________________________
_____ |
| 
| . [2] .
| | . ~ \_/ ~ .
| [2]:| | .. . ..
| | [2]| . |[2]
| .:| |
. ~~~ . . . ~~~ .
`…::’ | . . . . .
_ ~~~ _ | . . ~ . .
. `| |’:.. | [2]\. . . .
[1] . . . ./[2]
. | | `:::. | ./ . ~~~ . \.
| | `::: | . . : . .
. | | :::: | . .
. . .
| [1] | ::|:: | . ___ . ___ .
. `. .’ ,::||: | [2]| . |[2]
~~~ ::|||: | .’ _
`.
.. [2] .::|||:’ | . / \ .
::… ..::||||:’ | ~ -[2]- ~
:::::::::::::||||::’
|
“::::||||||||:” |
“:::::” |
|
|
|
|
[1] = Collision
Point | [1] = Collision Point
[2] – Uranium Section(s) | [2] = Plutonium Section(s)
|
______________________________________|_____________________________________
============================================================================
———–
The lead shield’s only purpose is to prevent the
inherent radioactivity
of the bomb’s payload from interfering with the other mechanisms of the
bomb.
The neutron flux of the bomb’s payload is strong enough to short circuit the
internal circuitry and cause an accidental or premature detonation.
Fuses
—–
The fuses are implemented as another safeguard to prevent an
accidental
detonation of both the conventional explosives and the nuclear payload. These
fuses are set near the surface of the `nose’ of the bomb so that they can be
installed easily
when the bomb is ready to be launched. The fuses should be
installed only shortly before the
bomb is launched. To affix them before it
is time could result in an accident of catastrophic
proportions.
============================================================================
-End of section 3-
-Documentation & Diagrams of the Atomic Bomb-
——————————–
File courtesy of Outlaw Labs
——————————–
IV. The Diagram of the Atomic Bomb
——————————
[Gravity Bomb Model]
—————————-
-> Cutaway Sections Visible <-
============================================================================
/\
/ \ <—————————[1]
/ \
_________________/______\_________________
| : ||: ~ ~ : |
[2]——-> | : ||: : |
| : ||: : |
| : ||: : |
| : ||: : |
| : ||: : |
| : ||:
: |
| : ||: : |
| : ||: : |
| : ||: : |
| : ||: : |
|
:______||:_____________________________: |
|/_______||/______________________________\|
\ ~\ | | /
\ |\ | | /
\ | \ | | /
\ | \ | | /
\ |___\ |______________| /
\|_______\|_________________\_/
|_____________________________|
/
\
/ _________________ \
/ _/ \_ \
/ __/ \__ \
/ / \ \
/__ _/ \_ __\
/ / \ \ \
/ / \/ \ \
/ / ___________ \
\
| / __/___________\__ \ |
| |_ ___ /=================\ ___ _| |
[4]———>
_||___|====|[[[[[[[|||]]]]]]]|====|___||_ <——–[4]
| | |—————–| | |
|
| |o=o=o=o=o=o=o=o=o| <——————-[5]
| | \_______________/ | |
| |__ |:
__| |
| | \______________ |: ______________/ | |
| | ________________\|: /________________ | |
| |/ |::::|: ::::| \| |
[6]———————-> |::::|: ::::| <———————[6]
| | |::::|: ::::| | |
| | |::==|: ==
<————————[9]
| | |::__\: :/__::| | |
| | |:: ~: :~ ::| | |
[7]—————————-> \_/ ::| | |
| |~\________/~\|:: ~ ::|/~\________/~| |
| |_/~~~~~~~~\_/|::_ _ _ _ _::|\_/~~~~~~~~\_|
|
[9]————————–>_=_=_=_=_::| | |
| | :::._______.::: | |
| |
.:::| |:::.. | |
| | ..:::::’| |`:::::.. | |
[6]—————->.::::::’ || ||
`::::::.<—————[6]
| | .::::::’ | || || | `::::::. | |
/| | .::::::’ | || ||
| `::::::. | |
| | | .:::::’ | || <—————————–[10]
| | |.:::::’ |
|| || | `:::::.| |
| | ||::::’ | |`. .’| | `::::|| |
[11]___________________________
“~” __________________________[11]
: | | \:: \ / ::/ | |
| | | \:_________|_|\/__
__\/|_|_________:/ | |
/ | | | __________~___:___~__________ | | |
|| | | | | |:::::::|
| | | |
[12] /|: | | | | |:::::::| | | | |
|~~~~~ / |: | | | | |:::::::| | | | |
|—-> / /|: | | | | |:::::::| <—————–[10]
| / / |: | | | | |:::::::| | | |
|
| / |: | | | | |::::<—————————–[13]
| / /|: | | | | |:::::::| |
| | |
| / / |: | | | | `:::::::’ | | | |
| _/ / /:~: | | | `: “~” :’ | | |
| | /
/ ~.. | | |: `: :’ | |
|->| / / : | | ::: `. .’ <—————-[11]
| |/ / ^
~\| \ ::::. `. .’ .:::: / |
| ~ /|\ | \_::::::. `. .’ .::::::_/ |
|_______| | \::::::.
`. .’ .:::<—————–[6]
|_________\:::::.. `~…..~’ ..:::::/_________|
|
\::::::::…….::::::::/ |
| ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ |
`. .’
`. .’
`. .’
`::. .::’
`::.. ..::’
`:::.. ..:::’
`::::::… ..::::::’
[14]——————> `:____:::::::::::____:’ <—————–[14]
“`::::_____::::”’
~~~~~
============================================================================
–
Diagram Outline -
———————
[1] – Tail Cone
[2] – Stabilizing
Tail Fins
[3] – Air Pressure Detonator
[4] – Air Inlet Tube(s)
[5] –
Altimeter/Pressure Sensors
[6] – Lead Shield Container
[7] – Detonating Head
[8] –
Conventional Explosive Charge
[9] – Packing
[10] – Uranium (U-235) [Plutonium (See other
diagram)]
[11] – Neutron Deflector (U-238)
[12] – Telemetry Monitoring Probes
[13]
- Receptacle for U-235 upon detonation
to facilitate supercritical mass.
[14] – Fuses
(inserted to arm bomb)
============================================================================
–
Diagram for Plutonium Bomb -
——————————–
[Gravity Bomb - Implosion
Model]
——————————–
-> Cutaway Sections Visible <-
============================================================================
/\
/ \ <—————————[1]
/ \
_________________/______\_________________
| : ||: ~ ~ : |
[2]——-> | : ||: : |
| : ||: : |
| : ||: : |
| : ||: : |
| : ||: : |
| : ||:
: |
| : ||: : |
| : ||: : |
| : ||: : |
| : ||: : |
|
:______||:_____________________________: |
|/_______||/______________________________\|
\ ~\ | : |:| /
\ |\ | : |:| /
\ | \ | :__________|:| /
\ |:_\ | :__________\:|
/
\ |___\ |______________| /
\ | \ |~ \ /
\|_______\|_________________\_/
|_____________________________|
/ \
/ \
/ \
/ _______________ \
/ ___/
\___ \
/____ __/ \__ ____\
[3]_______________________________ \ ___|
/ __/ \ \__
\
/ / \/ \ \
/ / ___________ \ \
/ / __/___________\__ \ \
./ /__ ___
/=================\ ___ __\ \.
[4]——-> ___||___|====|[[[[[|||||||]]]]]|====|___||___
<——[4]
/ / |=o=o=o=o=o=o=o=o=| <——————-[5]
.’ / \_______ _______/
\ `.
: |___ |*| ___| :
.’ | \_________________ |*| _________________/ | `.
: |
___________ ___ \ |*| / ___ ___________ | :
: |__/ \ / \_\\*//_/ \ / \__| :
:
|______________:|:____:: **::****:|:********\ <———[6]
.’
/:|||||||||||||’`|;..:::::::::::..;|’`|||||||*|||||:\ `.
[7]———-> ||||||’
.:::;~|~~~___~~~|~;:::. `|||||*|| <——-[7]
: |:|||||||||’ .::’\ ..:::::::::::.. /`::.
`|||*|||||:| :
: |:|||||||’ .::’ .:::”~~ ~~“:::. `::. `|\***\|:| :
: |:|||||’ .::\
.::”\ | [9] | /“::: /::. `|||*|:| :
[8]————>::’ .::’ \|_________|/ `::: `::. `|*
<—–[6]
`. \:||’ .::’ ::’\ [9] . . . [9] /::: `::. *|:/ .’
: \:’ :::’.::’ \ . . /
`::.`::: *:/ :
: | .::’.::’____\ [10] . [10] /____`::.`::.*| :
: | :::~::: | . . . |
:::~:::*| :
: | ::: :: [9] | . . ..:.. . . | [9] :: :::*| :
: \ ::: :: | .
:\_____________________________[11]
`. \`:: ::: ____| . . . |____ ::: ::’/ .’
: \:;~`::.
/ . [10] [10] . \ .::’~::/ :
`. \:. `::. / . . . \ .::’ .:/ .’
: \:. `:::/ [9] _________
[9] \:::’ .:/ :
`. \::. `:::. /| |\ .:::’ .::/ .’
: ~~\:/ `:::./ | [9] | \.:::’ \:/~~
:
`:=========\::. `::::… …::::’ .::/=========:’
`: ~\::./ “`:::::::::”’ \.::/~
:’
`. ~~~~~~\| ~~~ |/~~~~~~ .’
`. \:::…:::/ .’
`. ~~~~~~~~~ .’
`. .’
`:. .:’
`::. .::’
`::.. ..::’
`:::.. ..:::’
`::::::… ..::::::’
[12]——————> `:____:::::::::::____:’ <—————–[12]
“`::::_____::::”’
~~~~~
============================================================================
–
Diagram Outline -
———————
[1] – Tail Cone
[2] – Stabilizing
Tail Fins
[3] – Air Pressure Detonator
[4] – Air Inlet Tube(s)
[5] –
Altimeter/Pressure Sensors
[6] – Electronic Conduits & Fusing Circuits
[7] – Lead
Shield Container
[8] – Neutron Deflector (U-238)
[9] – Conventional Explosive
Charge(s)
[10] – Plutonium (Pu-239)
[11] – Receptacle for Beryllium/Polonium mixture
[12] – Fuses (inserted to arm bomb)
============================================================================
-End of section 4-
-Documentation & Diagrams of the Atomic Bomb-
——————————————————————————————-this
material has been released on 1/25/2000
——————————————————————————————-
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