— Posted by cameron19982 on 12:10 pm on Mar. 26, 2002
I was just curious, I have never made the honey oil before but am seriously considering. Once you extract the oil from your weed is your weed still good? Help me out here this is new to me. And how do you take your Honey oil?
(Edited by cameron19982 at 12:10 pm on Mar. 26, 2002)
— Posted by Rebo on 1:01 pm on Mar. 26, 2002
It’s the 2nd strongest plant based thc preparation in existence. The best way to smoke it is in a glass ball/pipe like the Ice heads smoke out of. As far as the weed, I honestly don’t know how safe it is. If anyone else knows, please post your info…
— Posted by Glocken der Holle on 11:08 pm on Mar. 26, 2002
After you extract the THC the weed is completely usless you like smokin wet herbs that don’t get you high 😉 .
— Posted by Glocken der Holle on 11:10 pm on Mar. 26, 2002
and here is how to do it:
This method has its basis in a fascinating industrial extraction method known as Supercritical Fluid Extraction. It uses totally over-the-counter butane gas (8 oz can, camping supply store) as the extraction solvent, and requires nothing even remotely suspicious or difficult to purchase.
The only other thing needed is about $2.00 worth of PVC pipe: a section 1.5 (one and a half) feet long and 1 & 3/4″ diameter (outer diameter I believe), and two end caps. Threaded PVC is not necessary.
For reasons not yet clear to those of us investigating these things unofficially, butane and CO2 (and perhaps other gas/solvents with similar ultra-low-boiling properties) selectively solvate the desirable fraction(s) of cannabis oils, pulling out only a beautiful amber honey oil and leaving the undesirable vegetative oils, waxes, chlorophyll, etc. behind in the plant matter.
Even unsmokable shade leaves produce a wonderfully clean and potent gold oil with this method.(So if you grow save those shade leaves!)
I have every reason to suspect that this would work splendidly to extract a super-strong and tasty oil from gross, unpalatable schwag commercial pot too, and of course, the better grade of herb you put it in, the better the resulting oil.
1) In one of the PVC end caps, drill a single small hole in the center. This hole should be correctly sized to snugly receive the little outlet nozzle of your butane can.
2) In the other end cap, drill a group of 5 or 6 small holes clustered in the center (like a pepper shaker).
3) After putting a piece of paper towel or coffee filter inside it for filtration, put the end cap with several holes on one end of the pipe. Push it on there real tight. This is the bottom.
4) Fill the pipe up with plant matter that has been pulverized into a coarse powder. You want it filled, but not packed down. (Full pipe estimated at 1.5 oz capacity, but this is a guess. I did not weigh it.)
5) Place the top end cap on the pipe. Again, push it on as securely as you can by hand.
6) Find a location outdoors with a decent breeze. You want these butane fumes to be quickly carried away. Seriously.
6a) Mount the pipe (single hole-side up) over a vessel that can hold 300mL+. Beakers are perfect. A lab stand and clamp are ideal for the mounting, but a regular shop clamp or anything that can hold it sturdily is fine. (Avoid metal if you can, to reduce the chance of sparks.) Position the bottom end of the pipe immediately over (1-2″) the receiving vessel to eliminate splatter loss.
7) Turn the butane gas can upside down and dispense the gas into the pipe via the single top hole. A whole 8-oz can takes about 10-12 seconds to evacuate. Be brave, swift, and careful. A spark at this moment would spell disaster since you have basically created an incendiary explosive device that is leaking.
8) When you’ve exhausted the can into the pipe, back off to a nice distance and let it do its thing. The butane moves down the pipe, extracting the cannabis as it goes. When it gets to the bottom (~30 seconds after dispensing), it begins to drain into the receiving vessel. Notice the pale, glowing yellow-green-gold hue of the extract.
Over approximately five to eight minutes, the butane extract will finish draining from the pipe to the receiving vessel. Maintain caution with the pipe, however, since there is a lot of residual butane still evaporating from within the pipe (notice the stream of fumes coming from the top hole).
When it slows down to a drop every few seconds, you can tap on the top hole with your finger and it will help push the last of the liquid butane out (or one can gently blow into the top hole to do the same thing). Remember, NO SMOKING, unless you wish to immolate yourself in grand fashion.
Being very low-boiling and volatile, the collected butane will likely begin boiling at ambient temperature.
The receiving vessel will gradually frost up as the butane cools it down, slowing down its rate of evaporation, but you can speed this up again simply by holding it in your hands. A better way is to set it in a saucepan containing a little bit of warm water.
Watch the butane start bubbling madly with the increase in temperature and marvel at its low boiling point. Again, be doing this outdoors with a nice breeze! It takes about 20 minutes or so to allow the butane to evaporate, or quicker if you help it along. You are left with a deep amber, almost orange oil of amazing purity.
The best way to collect and store the oil is probably to let all of the butane evaporate off and then redissolve the oil in some anhydrous or high-% alcohol, and then pour this into a vial and let it sit out for a day or two to allow the alcohol to evaporate.
Trying to transfer the oil into a small container while it is still solvated by the butane is too risky. I learned the hard way about this, thanks to the volatile temperament of butane.
I had filled a vial almost all the way to the top and was preparing to drop those last couple drops in, so that cleverly, I could let the last of the butane evaporate from the vial and the oil would all be neatly contained.
But when the last drop hit the mother lode in the vial, it changed the temperature of the solution in the vial upward by a hair and it all super boiled out of the vial and onto my fingers, which of course startled me and caused me to drop the vial.
I suggest dissolving it in alcohol as I mentioned above. If you can get pure or 99% isopropanol (isopropyl), use it, because THC’s photosensitivity reportedly does not occur in isopropanol.
— Posted by somefukinsnapov on 5:28 am on Mar. 27, 2002
glocken..it really doesnt work…well it does but the amount of oil u get really makes the whole process worthless u have to have an excess amount of either buds or leaf to make a worthwhile amount of the hash/honey oil
but a real good alternative to the honey is the hash recipe from a site from the net
its a pretty shit site but the recipe works,ive tired it,and made queit a bit of cash out of it after i got my hands on the pure isopropyl….then i got done
so be carefull trying to aquire the right stuff!!! TRUST ME;)
— Posted by Rebo on 12:15 pm on Mar. 27, 2002
It doesn’t work? IVE DONE IT! In the southwest, you can score an oz of brown schwag for as low as $40-you can certainly pull a quantity of oil out of an ounce…
— Posted by domeshot on 12:39 pm on Mar. 27, 2002
This is by far the best recipe for making thc oil there is. every thing elese involves soaking and cookin and is verry time consuming and is not near as potent as this recipe. out of an ounce of decent mid grade pot i filled up a vial almost to the top
— Posted by junglist on 1:08 pm on Mar. 27, 2002
acetone and alcohol extractions are a severe waste of grass. use the butane extraction when you have enough schwag or leaf to make it worth your time. any other method is a waste of your time and will only piss you off with the inferior product you yeild.
— Posted by OBCT on 2:44 pm on Mar. 27, 2002
do you reckon you could make honey oil out of hash (aka solid, resin, pot)
domeshot: how big was the vail you filled?
— Posted by Rebo on 3:04 pm on Mar. 27, 2002
sure, you could make honey oil outta hash. For that matter, you could make hash, and top it with homemade honey oil….