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semtex


— Posted by soulreaper666 on 3:43 am on April 8, 2002

semtex is a form of plastique that is a little stronger than u.s. form c4. one would make it by mixing rdx and pcse in a 9 to 7 ratio by volume with vasaline(or motor oil) or any other plasticiser. it will form a clay like texture with a hint of oil on it.it can be ignited by a blasting cap.


— Posted by chroniccrescent on 12:58 pm on April 8, 2002

SO? doubt anyone here has RDX and PCSE anyways.


— Posted by sinstar on 1:33 pm on April 8, 2002

Me thinks you mean RDX and PETN


— Posted by Tree on 2:34 am on April 9, 2002

what is RDX and PETN and where do you getmake them


— Posted by Sicopath on 7:16 am on April 9, 2002

Well, in the middle-east terrorists usually steal their RDX and PETN from industry.
Unfortunately in first-world countries we don’t have much of that kind of industry. But if you want some, go to your city council and find out what areas are zoned for explosives/chemical manufacturing, and go around there in the middle of the night.

And oh, people who use semtex wear towels on their heads and beat their wives. If I find out who you are and where you live i’ll smack you hard….

Just kidding.


— Posted by paladinpress on 3:40 pm on April 9, 2002

This is why people do not make it at home here is a complete recipe covering all ingredients except those commnly found or currently un-available to home manufacture………………

How to make PETN
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In a 600-mL beaker, add 400 mL of white nitric acidand cool to below 5C in a salt-ice bath. White nitric acid is made by adding a small amount of urea to fuming nitric acid then blowing dry air into the acid until it is colorless. 100 g of finely ground pentaerythritol is slowly added to the acid while stirring, keeping the temperature below 5C. After all of the pentaerythritol has been added, the stirring and cooling are continued for 15 minutes. The mixture is then dumped in about 3 L of ice water The crude product that should have formed is filtered to collect it, washed with water, and submerged in 1 L of hot 0.5% sodium carbonate solution for 1 hour. The crystals are again collected on a filter, washed with water, and allowed to dry. These washings are important to remove all traces of acid.
        To obtain a pure product, dissolve the crystals in hot acetone allow to cool, then add an equal volume of water as you have of acetone. Filter to collect the crystals, wash with water, and allow 24 hours to dry.

How to make RDX
——————–

Put 335 mL of 100% nitric acid in a 500-mL beaker, cool the acid to below 30 C by setting the beaker in a salt-ice bath. The nitric acid must be as concentrated as possible, it must also be free of nitrogen oxides. Slowly add 75 g of methenamine in small portions to the acid while stirring. The temperature must be kept between 20 C to 30 C during the addition. Once all of the methenamine has dissolved, slowly heat it to 55 C while stirring, hold it to between 50-55 C for 5 minutes, keep stirring. Now cool the mix to 20 C then let it sit for 15 minutes. After standing, it is gradually diluted with three or four times its volume of cool water this should precipitate the RDX from solution.
     Depending on how the gods of chemistry feel about your reaction it may take from minutes to hours to fully precipitate all of the RDX. Decant most of the liquid then add 1 L of 5% sodium bicarbonate solution to neutralize the remaining acid. Filter the mixture to collect the crystals of RDX that should have formed. Wash them with cold water, then with hot 5% sodium bicarbonate solution, and again with water. The RDX can be dried at room temperature or in an oven. Further purification can be accomplished by recrystallizing from acetone

Precursors

How to make Pentaerythritol
—————-

Prepare a solution of 800 g of paraformaldehyde and 165.5 mL of acetaldehyde in 5.5 L of water. Add to this solution 180 g of powdered calcium oxide in small portions with rapid stirring, a mechanical stirrer is advised. The rate of addition of the calcium oxide is adjusted such that the temperature of the solution rises to 50 C over a 30 minute period with the first portion. The addition of each subsequent portion should not be allowed to raise the temperature above 55 C. After the addition is complete, stirring is continued for 3 hours. The solution will become yellowish. After stirring, the solution is filtered to remove any contaminant particles, and the yellow filtrate is acidified with just enough hydrochloric acid to make it acid to litmus paper. It is recommended to decolorize the filtrate; add the decolorizer, stir for 5 minutes, and then filter again.
The colorless filtrate is now concentrated under reduced pressure until crystals begin to separate. Since it is rather inconvenient to run the entire lot, divide the solution into portions. The concentration can be done with a vacuum distillation setup. Using a 500-mL flask, add 200-300 mL of solution, when 40% of the water (80-120 mL) has boiled over, stop the distillation and add the next portion. Eventually you should have approximately 3 L of concentrated solution left. Heat this solution on a steam bath, while hot, suction filter it to remove any contamination. Any precipitated crystals that get caught on the filter can be washed through by wetting with steam.
The filtrate is now allowed to stand in a refrigerator overnight, whereupon the first crop of crystals will precipitate. These crystals are filtered to collect them. The filtrate is then boiled down to about 2 L, and again refrigerated overnight. A second crop of crystals will form; these can be filtered to collect them like before. The filtrate is now boiled down to about 1.2 L, refrigerated overnight, and the subsequent crystals are collected by filtration. The filtrate is finally boiled down to the consistency of syrup, refrigerated overnight, and the last crop of crystals is collected by filtration.
The combined crystals, which should weigh as much as 410-420 g, are recrystallized from an equal weight of hot water containing 10 mL of concentrated hydrochloric acid. This new solution can be decolorized, and then boiled down to obtain several additional crops of pure crystals. Discard the last 30-40 mL. The yield is about 55-57%.

How to make Acetaldehyde
———————————
Place 260 mL of 23% sulfuric acid in a 1500-mL Florence flask. Connect an addition funnel to the flask, and set it up for vacuum distillation with a 500-mL receiving flask. The receiving flask should be immersed in a salt-ice bath to cool the distillate when it comes over. Although a setup for vacuum distillation is used, it is not necessary to apply a vacuum; the vacuum adapter merely provides a means of equalizing pressure. Prepare a solution of 100 g of sodium dichromate in 200 mL of water and 127 mL of ethyl alcohol. Factor in the amount of water that is already in the ethyl alcohol when making the solution, i.e. 100 mL of 95% alcohol has 5 mL of water in it already. Place this solution in the addition funnel, position the stem of the funnel so that it is about 3 cm above the surface of the acid. Heat the acid until it just begins to boil, then add the mixture in the funnel in a steady stream to the acid. It will not be necessary to heat the flask during the addition because it will generate its own heat. The heat will be sufficient to distill over the acetaldehyde along some alcohol and waste acetal. If acetaldehyde vapors begin to escape from the flask, regulate the distillation by decreasing the amount of dichromate solution being added. If the reaction flask does not boil on its own, gently heat it for a short time until boiling begins.
The crude acetaldehyde thus obtained is difficult to distill from the alcohol and acetal mixed with it. It is therefore converted to aldehyde-ammonia, then back to pure aldehyde. Place the crude acetaldehyde in a Florence flask of suitable volume to contain no more than two thirds of the liquid. Attach a reflux condenser to the flask. Fill the condenser jacket with 30 C water. It is only necessary to have the warm water in the jacket, not flowing. Stop up the lower connecter to prevent water from leaking out. To the top of the condenser, attach a glass tube connected to a wash bottle filled with 50 mL of ether. This wash bottle is then connected to another wash bottle filled with 50 mL of ether. After all connections have been made, the crude aldehyde is heated to a gentle boil for 5-10 minutes. The ether will absorb the acetaldehyde as it boils off. If the ether begins to rise up into the connecting tube from the condenser to the wash bottle, increase the heating. Combine the ether into a 150-mL beaker immersed in a salt-ice bath. Bubble dry ammonia gas into the ether through a funnel or wide tube immersed near the bottom of the beaker. Add ammonia until the ethereal solution smells strongly of ammonia. After about an hour, pure ammonia-aldehyde should have separated out. Scrape the crystals from the beaker and collect them by suction filtration. Wash the crystals with a small amount of ether, and allow them to dry in a desiccator. The yield is about 30 g.
To obtain pure acetaldehyde, dissolve 10 g of aldehyde-ammonia in 10 mL of water in a 50-mL Florence flask. Add 28 mL of cold 29% sulfuric acid to the flask and set it up for simple distillation. Heat the flask on a water bath to distill over the aldehyde. Place the receiving flask in a salt-ice bath to cool the volatile acetaldehyde.
Acetaldehyde is extremely volatile and cannot be stored satisfactorily unless it is refrigerated or sealed in glass ampoules (not just capped), therefore it is necessary to prepare acetaldehyde each time it is needed. There is, however, an easier solution. A quick and easy way to store acetaldehyde is to polymerize it to paraldehyde, which can be handled and stored easily, then depolymerize when you need to use it. Now you can make a larger amount without worry.
To polymerize acetaldehyde for storage, place it in a dry test tube and cautiously add 1 drop of concentrated sulfuric acid per 2 mL of acetaldehyde in the tube. Mix thoroughly, the polymerization will begin to take place. Some gentle warming can hasten the reaction. After some minutes add 3-4 mL of water per 2 mL of acetaldehyde, an insoluble precipitate of paraldehyde will form. As an aside, technically paraldehyde is a controlled substance. It is a sedative and a hypnotic drug useable by prescription only.
To depolymerize paraldehyde back into acetaldehyde, place the paraldehyde into a round-bottom 200-mL Florence flask. Add 4-5 drops of concentrated sulfuric acid for every 20 g (20 mL) of paraldehyde in the flask. Set the flask up for fractional distillation, use glass in the fractionating column. Use a 125-mL Erlenmeyer flask as the receiver; keep it cool by immersing in an ice water (but not salt-ice) bath. Place a loose plug of cotton into the Erlenmeyer flask to help reduce evaporation loss; it must be loose. Care must be taken to prevent the cotton from coming into contact with the distillate. After setting up, heat the flask gently. The temperature of the distillate must not be allowed to rise above 35 C as it will only repolymerize. The acetaldehyde is now ready for use.

How to make paraformaldehyde
——————
Synthesis: See the end of acetylaldehyde for the Synthesis of paraldehyde.

How to make Methenamine
—————————-
Synonyms: 1,3,5,7-tetraazatricyclo[3.3.1.13,7]decane; aceto hmt; Aminoform; Ammoform; ammonioformaldehyde; Cystamin; Cystogen; formamine; Formin; HEXA; Hexaform; hexamethylenamine; hexamethyleneamine; hexamethylenetetraamine; hexamethylene tetramine; hexamethylene triamine; *.oO(hexamine)Oo.* ; hexilmethylenamine; Hiprex; HMT; HMTA; Mandelamine; methamin; metheneamine; preparation af; resotropin; 1,3,5,7-tetraazaadamantane; tetraazatricyclo[3.3.1.1(3,7)]decane; UREX; Uritone; Uroqid; Urotropin

Synthesis: Nothing yet

How to make Nitric Acid
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dissolved nitrogen dioxide in fuming nitric acid. Nitric acid forms an azeotrope with water at 68%, it this has a bp of 120.5 C

How to make Sodium Carbonate
———————————-
Synthesis: Nothing yet

How to make Acetone
———————–
Synthesis: Acetone is available as an OTC (Over The Counter) chemical in just about every hardware store. The stores sell it cheap, pure, and in large quantities. As far as Synthesis goes it is rather complicated, so it is best to purchase it. Its primary use in the household is as a solvent for paint, i.e. thinning paint, removing varnishes, and cleaning brushes. It can be purchased in pint to 5-gallon sizes at hardware stores or paint supply stores without question.

How to make Urea
——————–
Synthesis: Nothing yet

(Edited by paladinpress at 6:27 pm on April 9, 2002)


— Posted by paladinpress on 4:33 pm on April 9, 2002

There now I think that should discourage most form persuing it…. Everything in the post is true and the formula is sound


— Posted by sinstar on 6:15 pm on April 9, 2002

Tree, I seriously doubt somone with your mental stature would be capable of making PETN or RDX.


— Posted by soulreaper666 on 8:41 pm on April 9, 2002

no in not a sand niger, and no i dont beat my wife, it is true that most terrorists use semtex, but i did it out of curiosity, it is powerful, i made a small amount and it did a lot of damage to a tree, semtex is really stable but it has two ingredients that are extremely dangerous, rdx it a high explosive that is touch sensative and has 150% of the power of tnt, when factories would make it, they would turn it into something else, petn(yes i wrote something else i dont know what i was thinking)is less dangerous than rdx but is still more dangerous than most explosives so be careful.paladinpress has correct instructions on the making of this by the way


— Posted by sinstar on 9:04 pm on April 9, 2002

So you think that RDX is sensitive then do you?….oh you have made RDX have you?…….cough,splutter,LIARsplutter,cough


— Posted by soulreaper666 on 9:19 pm on April 9, 2002

yes i have, i will never do it again, it didnt ignite or anything, it just scared the shit out of me, and it took a lot of money


— Posted by Egg411 on 11:24 pm on April 9, 2002

a marine once told me that you can take C-4  and burn it and it just flares up like cooking fuel.  anyone ever hear that?


— Posted by paladinpress on 1:39 am on April 10, 2002

Look at one of the main ingredients in the precursor it is HEXAMINE.    (Methenamine ) . A crystalline compound C 6H 12N 4 used in medicine as a urinary antiseptic esp. in cystitis it is commonly used for camping fuel sticks.

(Edited by paladinpress at 1:44 am on April 10, 2002)


— Posted by Zambosan on 11:51 am on April 10, 2002

Egg411: More C-4 gets used in the field for cooking than for its intended purpose. 🙂  RDX is reasonably insensitive to shock, and as stated, will burn quite calmly.


— Posted by Rebo on 1:08 pm on April 10, 2002

true- it is used in the field for cooking. Don’t inhale the fumes from it though


— Posted by paladinpress on 4:42 pm on April 10, 2002

Tree I would like to know if you still want to persue making RDX/PETN the recipe is sound and will work for you *(Though I’m not advocating that you try it)*. As allways if you are new to the whole Chemical Synth process I suggest that you start with gunpowder amiking and work up, But if you do have a DREAM and in the dream you make it I would love to hear and see the pics of you dream if you can/do it.

J.


— Posted by MadBomber2 on 4:48 pm on April 10, 2002

LOL if only there was a way to lacate rdx and PETN without having to make everything. i heard if u find the demolition place from city hall u can just rob it blind.


— Posted by paladinpress on 5:12 pm on April 10, 2002

Tree I would like to know if you still want to persue making RDX/PETN the recipe is sound and will work for you *(Though I’m not advocating that you try it)*. As allways if you are new to the whole Chemical Synth process I suggest that you start with gunpowder amiking and work up, But if you do have a DREAM and in the dream you make it I would love to hear and see the pics of you dream if you can/do it.

J.


— Posted by khunt0012 on 8:10 pm on April 10, 2002

i agree, anybody who has time to make rdx, has too much time…and its really not worth the effort, so try something more simple.


— Posted by Tree on 8:31 pm on April 10, 2002

im not ever going to make that crap(RDX andPETN) i was just curious.  


— Posted by Tree on 8:34 pm on April 10, 2002

id be scard to make it, but arn’t we all?


— Posted by hamster2 on 7:25 am on April 11, 2002

You can cook with C4, in fact  it will make a metal army canteen cup full of water boil in about two minutes or less if you do it right . However I wouldnt be doing that to start with …..fuck wasting C4 doing that shit. Also I wouldn’t go trying to set fire to straight RDX  Its just not  professional and the safest past time to be involved with and thats why they dont hand out explosive licenses to children.


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