— Posted by ghettopimp70 on 2:41 am on Mar. 13, 2002
Im lookin to get my hands on some chloraform so if anyone either knows a way to access it or make it please help me out
P.S. I dont know much about chemistry yet so if youre gonna tell me how to make it..pretend you were explaining it to a 3 year old
— Posted by Radiant on 4:24 pm on Mar. 13, 2002
uhmmm… i think you can just buy it in hardware stores.
atleast here in sweden 🙂
— Posted by preditor on 10:11 pm on Mar. 13, 2002
it’s pretty cheap, go to any chemistry chemical suplier, one that I like is Advance-Scientific, here is the URL to buy chloroform from them http://www.advance-scientific.com/products_PAGER.asp?recordsperpage=30¤tpage=8&lastitemposition=240&recordnumber=241&numberofpages=16&numberofrecords=465&products=Chemicals it will be the third and fourth one down
— Posted by Molitolv Volkov on 7:21 pm on Mar. 14, 2002
You can get it at hardware stores. i think they use it for plants but i dont. Im going to try to make a cloroform bomb out of a 12 gauge shell.
— Posted by preditor on 11:32 pm on Mar. 14, 2002
how does that work?
— Posted by johnny 99 on 12:39 am on Mar. 15, 2002
thrust spray starter from the auto parts store is almost pure ether and will work just as well for the old rag over the mouth gag but its very easy to kill someone with either one, so you can consider this as for informational purposes only.
— Posted by Zambosan on 12:28 pm on Mar. 15, 2002
A *chloroform bomb*??? Oh brother. No hardware store is going to sell it, they don’t sell it at the garden store either, and it’s *not* used for plants. It’s carcinogenic, an organic solvent, and a general anesthetic. Your post about your “EMP device fuckin up” was more believable.
— Posted by chroniccrescent on 1:45 am on Mar. 25, 2002
ive been wanting chloroform for sum time now, ne ideas on how i can get it (im in the uk remember)
— Posted by ghettopimp70 on 4:16 am on Mar. 25, 2002
Did u say chloraform can be deadly? Anyone else wanna confirm that?
— Posted by preditor on 1:49 pm on Mar. 25, 2002
yep, I’m confirming that
— Posted by chroniccrescent on 1:55 pm on Mar. 25, 2002
chloroform could b used in a bomb, since it is a hydrocarbon like petrol and alcohol, but there would b no point, ur better using it for stuff like knockin ppl out
— Posted by preditor on 2:25 pm on Mar. 25, 2002
I think the point was to have it knock people out when it blows up.
— Posted by johnny 99 on 3:35 pm on Mar. 25, 2002
Won’t work, unless you can lock whoever it is in a room and replace a decent amount of the oxygen in the room with it. Plusit really stinks.
— Posted by ghettopimp70 on 1:06 am on Mar. 26, 2002
If you were to use it in a rag to knock some one out what are the chances it could be fatal and how does it work
— Posted by johnny 99 on 2:21 am on Mar. 26, 2002
It’s real fucking easy to kill someone like this, it used to be fairly common. When DOCTORS used it. I belive that it works by shutting down brain functions, but I’m no doctor. Maybe some one else can give you a better answer.
— Posted by chroniccrescent on 8:20 am on Mar. 26, 2002
its just a general aneastehtic (if thats how u spell it) and the chances of dying r probably slim, although they would b hyped against the sucess rate of modern aneasthetics, so they probably wont die just as long as u dont o.d. them on it 😎
— Posted by knightmedia on 2:09 am on Mar. 29, 2002
Pretty gnarly stuff. You’re not going to be getting it at any hardware store. Do your chemistry and make it yourself.
— Posted by TheAnarchist on 9:14 am on April 1, 2002
you can make vomiting gas out of chloroform and that makes people vomit…it can last for a week and on a file i read about it it says that people comit suicide becuz they won’t stop vomiting…yikes
— Posted by Molitolv Volkov on 9:11 pm on April 1, 2002
well fuck. i was hoping to make some shit to knock somone out. This blows.
— Posted by knightmedia on 2:01 am on April 10, 2002
If you just wanna knock someone out, use Chloral Hydrate (knock-out drops). Or pistol-whip them. I think you can actually use chloroform just like everyone sees in the movies, but if you get it on you, you’ll undergo the same problems as your victim.
— Posted by Radiant on 8:29 am on April 10, 2002
Does anyone have instructions on how to make it?
— Posted by paladinpress on 11:21 am on April 10, 2002
Once again PaladinPress comes to the rescue with another great recipe:
**As always resluts will very if it does not work for you expeiment with it, and if all fails try some other method**
Go get a five gallon bucket. The ones used for painting work well and are available new, with a cover, in the paint department of most big homeowner stores. The cover can be used to keep bird droppings and bugs out of the reaction. Put the bucket outside in a reasonably ventilated area with good drainage away from any shrubbery that can be killed by spills. Pour two gallons of 10% sodium hypochlorite solution into the bucket. This material is available in two one-gallon containers for around $4.00 from the local homeowner store in the swimming pool section labeled, “Liquid Pool Chlorine.” Make sure you get the Sodium Hypochlorite, not the Hydrochloric Acid that’s in the same section, HCl is useful, but not for this reaction.
Add 5 pounds of ice to the Hypochlorite. Be careful pouring this stuff, it’s bleach, but twice as strong as the stuff Mom uses to do your laundry. Each splash on your clothing will eat a nice white hole. Stir with a plastic or wooden spoon, avoid metal. Metal spoons won’t spoil the reaction, but it may spoil the spoon.
While the solution cools, measure out 340 grams of acetone into a container. Add about half of the measured acetone into the ice solution and stir it up. Wait about 10 minutes and feel the side of the bucket. It should feel warmer near the bottom and colder as you raise your hand to the ice. Stir the ice mix around and equalize the temperature. Add the rest of the acetone and stir again. Let it set for about 10 minutes.
If you didn’t listen and used less than five pounds of ice in the solution, it will get hot enough to boil off the Chloroform and leave you with nothing but a bad smell, splatters where it boiled over and probably holes in your shoes and clothes. As a matter of fact it would be good to have an extra five pounds of ice around in case you’re doing this in the middle of the day in Panama where the temperature is hovering around 104F. At this temperature, or if you’re doing this in the Peruvian Mountains at 6500 feet it may take more ice to keep it cool enough not to boil off the Chloroform as it forms. This is a very exothermic reaction, but it can be controlled easily by the addition of ice as needed.
You should have a cool mixture of ice and something that is starting to look cloudy. It will be colder on the top than the bottom and most of the ice has melted. Let this mixture set until the ice completely melts. Grab the bucket and carefully pour off the water and fine white powder leaving behind the Chloroform that has settled to the bottom of the bucket. When you’re pouring off the water, it may be hard to see the Chloroform, but trust me, it’s in there. The Chloroform is heavier than water and falls to the bottom in a bubble looking blob. The blob will have a white powder clinging to it. Just pour off the water until you can clearly see the blob and then pour blob, water and powder into a smaller, easier to handle container. There may be some bubbles forming and rising to the top of the solution. Don’t worry, this is normal and will not cause a problemunless you try to seal the reactants up.
Pour the Chloroform, powder and water through a coffee filter into a separatory funnel and separate the crude Chloroform, which will sink to the bottom. You will get around 200ml of crude Chloroform. Disappointed? This reaction uses very cheap materials and is one of the simplest, cheapest methods known, so just quit bitching and deal with it. Since the procedure is so simple up to this point, make a few more batches before moving to the next step.
The Chloroform has water and the white powder still in it and this needs to be removed. The Chloroform can be vacuum filtered through a six inch sand filter to remove the powder and then passed through about 4 inches of anhydrous magnesium sulfate to remove most of the water, but the mechanical loss would kill half of the product. The best way to clean this up is to distill it. Use an appropriately sized flask, a one liter two-necked flask will work well, even for larger volumes. If you’re doing more than half a liter, pour it in as the distillation progresses. Use a fractionating column, I use a 400mm, set up for normal distillation with an oil bath and magnetic stirring. If this last paragraph doesn’t mean a thing to you, go to the library and get an organic lab survivor’s guide. These books have pictures and complete descriptions of all the pieces I’ll talk about.
Remember, distilling Chloroform is not an incredibly safe procedure. Chloroform fumes are toxic and narcotic, and may knock you out if aren’t being careful. On contact with flames and hot surfaces it can decompose into the dangerous war gas phosgene. So ventilate the area with fans to remove the vapors and attach a vent tube to the vacuum adapter that leads away from the area where you’re working.
It is interesting watching Chloroform distill through a fractionating column. As the solution comes to a boil a gray cloud rises up the column until it reaches the distilling head and spills into the condenser where it disappears into fluid. Below the rising cloud the Chloroform condenses on the sides of the column and drips back into the solution to be converted into the rising cloud again. Keep the boil fairly slow, you don’t want to boil it dry while you’re off visiting the bathroom or kitchen. The first Chloroform that comes over is tainted with water, don’t worry about it, keep collecting. When the Chloroform is almost gone from the source flask, add about 200 ml of water and bring to a gentle boil to force the remaining Chloroform from the column (there’s a bunch of stuff in there). You can tell when the Chloroform is done because the temperature starts to rise pretty quickly from 60c to 80c. Stop the distillation at this point.
As the Chloroform distilled it azeotropically carried over some water that can now be seen as clear bubbles clinging to the sides of the receiving flask or floating around on the top of the clear Chloroform. It can also cloud up the Chloroform some. Pour the Chloroform into a separatory funnel. Put a flask fitted with a filtering funnel loaded with a couple of inches of anhydrous Magnesium Sulfate under the separatory funnel, and let the Chloroform slowly drain through while separating the water. This will leave you with clear anhydrous Chloroform in the flask.
To make anhydrous Magnesium Sulfate, get some Epsom Salts at the drug store and pour about a pound into a casserole dish. Heat the casserole dish in the oven at 450F for about 4 hours. After cooling and chipping and crushing the fused material you have anhydrous Magnesium Sulfate. Putting it in a thick plastic bag and tapping gently with a hammer can crush this stuff. Use a butter knife to get it out of the pan, not an ice pick! You can also line the pan with aluminum foil to make removal easier, but sometimes it’s hard to get the aluminum loose from the Magnesium Sulfate. Don’t grease the pan stupid!
Now look back at what’s left in the distilling flask. It’s got water and some nasty green stuff clinging to the sides and a white powder setting on the bottom. See why you distilled it? This crud would have been left in the chloroform and screwed up everything you used it for.
Put your crystal clear, anhydrous Chloroform in a brown bottle, cap tightly and store away from light. If you’re going to store it for a long time put a couple of drops of 95% alcohol in to stabilize it. Warning, Chloroform will eat rubber, so don’t use a rubber stopper. Glass or teflon seals are the best.
This is provided for educational use only I can not be held liable for its use nor Bombshock.com . I state here that I do Not condone annyone try this as it is highly carcinogenic and decomposes easily into “Deadly Gas”.
— Posted by Radiant on 12:08 pm on April 10, 2002
Thank you very much!
You have NO idea how much i needed this 🙂
(no im not gonna knock someone out)
— Posted by paladinpress on 6:51 pm on April 10, 2002
Just because I’m a nice “Mother Fucker” *(I’m watching Pulp Fiction)* here is a second recipe I was going to keep to my self but what is knowledge if you can not share it………
With Calcium Hypochlorite and Acetone
When chlorine is passed into boiling alcohol, both chlorination of the methyl group and oxidation of the primary alcohol group to an aldehyde occur, giving trichloro-acetaldehyde or chloral: When chloral is treated with caustic alkali, fission of the C-C linkage occurs, giving chloroform and a formate. Acetaldehyde and also many ketones, such as acetone, containing the CH3CO- group behave similarly when treated with calcium or sodium hypochlorite, chlorination of the CH3CO- group being immediately followed by fission of the molecule by the alkali present in the hypochlorite solution. The acetone method clearly gives a much cheaper product than the alcohol method.
Required: Calcium Hypochlorite 100g (bleaching powder), acetone 44ml
Place 100g of calcium hypochlorite in a mortar and add 250 ml of water in small quantities at a time: between each addition grind the mixture of bleaching powder and water well together and decant the cream-like suspension through a funnel into a 1-litre flat-bottomed flask. Finally, when all the water has thus been used, only a gritty residue remains in the mortar. Fit the flask with an efficient reflux water-condenser, pour 44ml (35g) of acetone in small quantities, at a time, down the condenser and mix by thorough shaking after each addition. The reaction usually starts spontaneously after a few minutes, and a bath of cold water should be available into which the flask may be dipped if necessary to moderate the reaction. Should the reaction show no signs of starting within 5 minutes of the addition of the acetone, warm the flask cautiously on a boiling water-bath until the reaction starts, and then remove it immediately. When the vigorous boiling has subsided, heat the flask on a boiling water-bath for a further 5-10 minutes (not more) to complete the reaction. Cool the flask in cold water (to prevent loss of chloroform vapour whilst the apparatus is being rearranged) and then fit the flask with a fairly wide delivery-tube and reverse the water-condenser for distillation. Heat the flask on a water-bath until distillation of the chloroform is complete.
The chloroform thus obtained is usually acidic. Therefore shake it thoroughly with dilute sodium hydroxide solution in a separating-funnel. (If the chloroform tends to float on the alkaline solution, it still contains appreciable quantities of acetone: in this case the soda should be run out of the funnel and the chloroform shaken with water to extract the acetone. The extraction with the soda can then be performed after the water has been removed.) Carefully run off the heavy lower layer of chloroform into a small conical flask, dry it over calcium chloride for 15-20 minutes, and then filter it directly into a 75 ml. distilling-flask fitted with a clean dry water-condenser. Distill the chloroform, collecting the fraction of bp. 60-63C. Yield, 30g. (20ml).
Chloroform is a colourless liquid, of bp 61 and d 1.50. It has a characteristic sweetish smell, and is frequently used as a solvent in organic chemistry.
Reference: Mann & Saunders, Practical Organic Chemistry, 3rd Ed
(Edited by paladinpress at 6:52 pm on April 10, 2002)