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how to make a silencer


— Posted by velosity1 on 3:13 pm on Mar. 24, 2002

DOES ANYBODY KNOW  how to make a silencer FOR A 22 OR ANY KIND OF PISTOL TNX


— Posted by Radiant on 6:03 pm on Mar. 24, 2002

YES WE do know THAT!!!!!


— Posted by Roland49686 on 6:42 pm on Mar. 24, 2002

Take a patato
Put it at the end of your gun.
Fire.
No sound.
Amazing.
Get a life, get a job, get laid. U got a stick up ur ass. And lay off the caps okay?


— Posted by chroniccrescent on 6:43 pm on Mar. 24, 2002

they aint no reason y u should need a silencer but goto www.howstuffworks.com and look at their explanation of a silencer, it may clear sum things up if u is still stupid enuff to try n make 1


— Posted by Roland49686 on 6:47 pm on Mar. 24, 2002

Silencers are for killing. What else.
Plus chicks are too fuckin lame to kill people. They have no reason (unless they’re ugly).


— Posted by irish man on 7:01 pm on Mar. 24, 2002

i dont no if it is true but u could put a bottle on the end of the gun maybe that would work


— Posted by Roland49686 on 7:05 pm on Mar. 24, 2002

That dosen’t work


— Posted by johnny 99 on 8:20 pm on Mar. 24, 2002

I’ve had pretty good luck making silencers for 22s like this . find a rod (I use welding rod) metal, wood, plastic, whatever that will just fit down the barrel of the pistol with about 10 inches sticking out , get some metal window screen. cut it into 10 inch by however long u have strips. then you have to tape it to it’s self around the rod. then just keep winding until you have enough built up that it will just slide into an 11/2 inch pvc pipe coat the pipe with a little bit of epoxy on the inside and slide it over the screen. now all you have to do is attatch it to your weapon, the simplest way is just to start spiralling tape up and down the barrel and sillencer until you get it as firm as you need it. try to leave the rod in the barreluntil you are ready to fire. I usually get about 20-30 shots out of one of these before the bullet starts to fray out the end of the screen. after that happens you’ve got about five more shot before the whole mess comes out the end of the silencer. hope this helps!


— Posted by chroniccrescent on 1:39 am on Mar. 25, 2002

but noise from the gun is one of the good things about it, y silence it? i doubt u gonna kill nebdy


— Posted by johnny 99 on 1:42 am on Mar. 25, 2002

Why would you want to kill nebdy?


— Posted by GhEtTo BoY on 12:52 am on Mar. 26, 2002

k ok i no im stealin this but its gotta b useful an its from a pro hit man k and dont worry about the view sources coz i cant b bothrd deleting that The directions and photographs that follow show in explicit detail how to construct a silencer for a Ruger 10/22 rifle. The same directions can be followed successfully to construct a silencer for any weapon, with only the size of the drill rod used for alignment changed to fit inside the dimension of the barrel.

The following items should be assembled before you begin:

*Drill rod, 7/32 inch (order from a machine shop if not obtained locally)
*One foot of 1/4 inch brake line from auto parts
*One quart of fiberglass resin with hardener
*One foot of 1-1/2 inch (inside diameter) PVC piping and two end caps
*One yard thin fiberglass mat
*One roll of masking tape
*One 1/8 inch drill bit
*One 3/16 inch drill bit
*Handful of rubber bands
*Three or four single inch razor blades
*One sheet 80 grit sandpaper
*Six small wood screws
*One box steel wool

Cut a 10-inch section from the brake line.. Drill a set of 1/8 inch holes down the length of the tube going in one side and out the other. The holes go all the way through. Notice in the photograph that the holes begin 1-1/2 inches from the end of the tube that fill on the gun.
Next, take a 3/16 inch drill bit and enlarge the holes.  
Using masking tape and keeping the tape as free of wrinkles as possible, mask off about six inches of the gun barrel and the end of the barrel. Use only masking tape. Duct tape is too thick and would make for an improper fit.
Then place the drill rod down the barrel to keep the brake tube aligned. This perfect alignment is extremely important.
If the drill rod you purchase is a little too large, as sometimes happens, put it in a drill and using a file and sandpaper (80 grit), turn down the first six inches until it will fit inside the gun barrel. I operate the drill from the floor with my foot, letting the rod spin between my knees as I reduce the size. Check regularly until you achieve a perfect fit. If you grind the rod too small, cut it off and start over. Fit must be tight with no play.  
Wrap glass mat around the gun and tube three times. Secure it with string or rubber bands every half inch to keep it tight and in place. The glass should be wrapped about two inches behind the sight and up to the first hold on the tube.
Now mix the resin. About a shot glassful will do. Mix it two or three times hotter than the package directions.
Brace the gun in an upright position and dab the resin into the glass cloth with a stubby brush. Keep dabbling until the cloth is no longer white but has become transparent from absorption of the resin.  As soon as the glass is tacky to touch without sticking (times differs according to weather conditions and humidity), it is time to remove the piece from the barrel. Move fast!
First, take a razor blade and cut a notch behind the sight so the piece can be removed. Then push on the glass to slide it off. Do not pull on the tube.
After removing the gun barrel, peel out the tape and allow it to finish hardening. You must work quickly. If you let the glass harden too much on the gun, you will have to cut it off and begin again. Use a grinder and 80 grit sandpaper to smooth the hardening rough surface.
Next, grind the sides down about halfway, but do not grind past the point where the front of the sight makes contact. Cut it down until the barrel fits easily and snugly.
Stand the glassed inner tube upright in a vise.
Mix a small amount of resin and use an eyedropper to fill in any interior holes or air bubbles until the solid fiberglass is level with the steel tube end. This will give the junction of the steel inner tube and glass coupling added strength.
Clean the eyedropper with acetone.
Cut the PVC tube to desired length. This one is eight inches.
Drill a large hole in the center of one cap, making it large enough to fit on the glass end to the point where the sight makes contact.
Then drill small holes all around the cap at the bottom, as shown, with a 3/16 bit.
Wrap masking tape around the cap to cover the holes.
Stand the cap with the inside tube inserted into a vise. Get the cap level and straight with the tube.
Cut a lot of 1/2 inch square pieces of fiberglass matting and fill the cap with it up past the level of the small holes.
Mix resin and pour it over the cut glass to a point about 1/4 inch above the holes and allow it to dry before removing the cap from the vise. Don’t worry about any resin that leaks out around the base hole. Resin fills the small holes, making the tube strong enough to take the blast when you fire the gun.
When the inside is hardened, turn the assembly over and add glass around the backside of the cap for added strength as shown. Avoid getting resin in the opening where the barrel fits.
Place the finished cap and inner tube on one end of the PVC tubing that has already been cut to size. Center the inner tube as you look in the open end of the PVC.
Now drill a 1/8 inch hole in three place around the tube about 1/4 inch from the lip of the cap.
Take the inner tube out and enlarge the holes in the cap to 3/16 inch. Replace the inner tube and tighten it down with three small wood screws. Trim the inside tube down until it extends about 1/2 inch beyond the outside PVC tube.
Sharpen one end of the drill rod to a point and use as a punch. Stand the tube up with the solid cap down. Then drop the drill rod down the inner tube to get a true center mark.
Find a drill bit a little larger than the outside diameter of the inner tube. Remove the cap and drill the hole.
Replace the cap on the open end of the PVC and drill three 1/8 inch holes around the cap as before for wood screw.
Grind off any inner tube that sticks out. make it flush with the face of the cap.
Unfold the sections of steel wool and roll between palms to make strands as shown.
Feed the strands into the silencer tube in a circular motion, packing the wool tight with a stick. Do this until the tube is completely full. Replace the end cap with the three screws.
Paint the finished silencer black and attach it to your weapons. You may want to ensure proper alignment by wrapping tape or placing a hose clamp around the extension behind the sight.


— Posted by johnny 99 on 1:57 am on Mar. 26, 2002

If you coat the tape over the barrel with a film of vasaline the green resin will be a lot easier to remove. Also if you are going to all that trouble, packing the steel wool with lithium grease will extend the life of your silencer.


— Posted by stephenericrose on 9:39 am on Mar. 27, 2002

I like the firing through the potato, or through a throw-pillow like they do in the movies…  (*humming the 007 Theme*)


— Posted by rageing redneck on 12:53 pm on Mar. 27, 2002

i always took a a 20 oz pop bottle stuffed it with steel wool and duct taped to  the barrel works fine for me


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