This incorporates a wire-trip action to complete the electrical circuit. It is extremely simple to make, since all the equipment can be gathered around the house. The great advantage to this particular device is that the explosives are detonated when the vehicle is directly over it, so insuring maximum destruction.
To construct a road trap, begin by digging three holes across a roadway. Into two of the holes place the explosive charges, and into the third place a regular car battery. Connect the first wire from the negative terminal of the battery via each of the blasting caps, in each charge, to a metal pin on one side of an ordinary clothespin. The clothespin must be kept open by a small wooden wedge, which is attached to a thin black wire stretched across the roadway. When the semi-invisible wire is pulled, the wodden wedge will fall out of the clothespin, thus closing the clothespin. When the clothespin is closed, the two metal pins will connect the electrical circuit, thus exploding the charges.
This incorporates the same type of wire-trap action as described in the road trap. The walk trap is not electrically operated, it relies on a percussion detonator. When the wire is pulled, it pulls the safety pin out of the heavy firing pin. The heat created from the detonator’s explosion will be sufficient to set off the TNT. This type of booby trap is especially effective in dense undergrowth where the trip wire cannot be readily seen (see figure).
This is nothing more than a few sections of pipe filled with sticks of dynamite, sealed at the ends, and joined in the middle by couplings, thus permitting the torpedo to be of varying lengths. The cap at one end must have a small hole drilled in it, so that a fuse and blasting cap can be inserted. It can be used very effectively to destroy walls, barricades, and steel or iron doors. These are also great weapons against cars, trucks, and even trains. If piping of this sort is not available, you can make a substitute torpedo by taking a stick of dynamite and wrapping it tightly with electric tape and thin copper wire. To be effectvie, it should have many layers of each.
Homemade Hand Grenade
This is constructed from an empty, clean, condensed-milk can, attached to a wodden handle. It is then filled halfway with a layer of dynamite. In the dynamite is placed a nonelectric blasting cap, with a five to six second fuse. The dynamite is then covered with small pieces of iron, until the can is full. Seal the top of the open end closed, leaving a small hole for the fuse.
This is constructed by taking a piece of pipe and closing it at one end, either by soldering or by screwing a cap on it. The pipe is packed tightly with dynamite, and sealed at the other end, leaving a small hole for the detonator, which is made in the following manner. A piece of one-eighth-inch tubing is fastened to the end of a piece of fuse, which in turn is attached to a detonating cap. On the other end of the fuse, a bit of cotton, saturated with chlorate of potassium and common sugar, is placed, followed by another piece of cotton and a little vial of sulferic acid. (This vial must be hermetically sealed, to prevent leakage). Finally, a piece of wood or iron, which can be easily moved, is packed in the remaining empty space. The piece of wood is placed there, so that when the pipe is moved the piece of iron or wood will fall against the vial of sulfuric acid and break it. Once the sulfuric acid contacts the potassium chlorate, the chemical reaction will cause a very hot flame, which will ignite the fuse and cause the explosion. If this type of device is placed in a roadway, or directly in the path of the enemy army, there is a good change it will be set off – either by a kick or by curiosity.
To construct this, you will need a large book, perhaps a thousand pages. The book should be hollowed out, leaving the edges intact. In this hollow place, put a dry cell battery and your explosive, and connect the wires. Fix two metal contact points to the edges of the book, and separate them with a wooden wedge, which is attached to the rear wall of the bookcase. This must be accomplished in such a manner that, when the book is removed from the shelf, the metal contact points will touch and complete the electrical circuit, thus causing the detonation of the explosive charge.
Concealing a bomb can be extremely difficult in a day and age where perpetrators of violence run wild. Bags and briefcases are often searched by authorities whenever one enters a place where an individual might intend to set off a bomb. One approach to disguising a bomb is to build what is called a book bomb; an explosive device that is entirely contained inside of a book. Usually, a relatively large book is required, and the book must be of the hardback variety to hide any protrusions of a bomb. Dictionaries, law books, large textbooks, and other such books work well.
When an individual makes a bookbomb, he/she must choose a type of book that is appropriate for the place where the book bomb will be placed. The actual construction of a book bomb can be done by anyone who possesses an electric drill and a coping saw.
First, all of the pages of the book must be glued together. By pouring an entire container of water-soluble glue into a large bucket, and filling the bucket with boiling water, a glue-water solution can be made that will hold all of the book’s pages together tightly. After the glue-water solution has cooled to a bearable temperature, and the solution has been stirred well, the pages of the book must be immersed in the glue-water solution, and each page must be thoroughly soaked. It is extremely important that the covers of the book do not get stuck to the pages of the book while the pages are drying. Suspending the book by both covers and clamping the pages together in a vice works best. When the pages dry, after about three days to a week, a hole must be drilled into the now rigid pages, and they should drill out much like wood. Then, by inserting the coping saw blade through the pages and sawing out a rectangle from the middle of the book, the individual will be left with a shell of the book’s pages. The pages, when drilled out, should look like this:
This rectangle must be securely glued to the back cover of the book. After building his/her bomb, which usually is of the timer or radio controlled variety, the bomber places it inside the book. The bomb itself, and whatever timer or detonator is used, should be packed in foam to prevent it from rolling or shifting about. Finally, after the timer is set, or the radio control has been turned on, the front cover is glued closed, and the bomb is taken to its destination.
Loose Floorboard Trap
This one utilizes the same principles as the Book Trap, in that is relies on two metal contact points touching to complete the electrical circuit. Beneath the loose floorboard are two strips of pliable metal of bamboo, each with a metal contact point, which will touch when pressure is brought down on the loose floorboard.
This is an extremely simple, effective, and relatively safe booby trap. To cock the booby trap, pull the pin on a regular tension release grenade, and place beneath a swining gate, or anywhere that will supply the pressure necessary. When the gate is moved (either opened or closed), the pressure will be released and the grenade detonated.
Take three or four sticks of dynamite and tape them together. Attach a nonelectrical blasting cap, with a three or four foot fuse. Now tape the dynamite about five feet up on the inside of the chimney, leaving the fuse hanging loose downward. The end of the fuse should be about a foot or so up the chimney so that it is out of sight. When a fire is lit, the heat generated will ignite the fuse, and it will explode the charge, further up the chimney. This works extremely well, since most of the tamping is supplied by the very structure of the chimney.
It has many advantages, the most important being that you do not have to carry your own power supply, but rather use the ignition system of the car itself. Wires are run from the electrical blasting cap to points along the electrical ignititon system, and attached with alligator clips. When the key it turned, it will complete the ignition system, and thus explode the bomb. A good place to hide explosives is in the hollow cavity behind the dashboard, since then the full force of the explosion will be directed at the individuals in the front seat.
There are basically two methods of booby-trapping a pipe. The first is very similar to the chimney trap, except the intent is to blow off the smoker’s head. A small amount of tetryl or lead azide is placed in the mouthpiece of the pipe, and a fuse is attached, which leads through the rest of the pipe to a point about one-quarter-inch beneath the bowl. When the smoker lights the pipe, the fuse will be lit, and burn down untouched, until it detonates the explosives in the mouthpiece, and blows the smoker’s head off.
The second method is a little more complex but just as effective. A very sensitive explosive is placed in the mouthpiece, as before, except an activated firing pin is placed in the stem of the pipe. The smoker will attempt to light the pipe and find he cannot suck through it. Believing the stem to be blocked with tar or nicotine, he will unscrew the threaded joint. The act of unscrewing will release the firing pin, and detonate the explosives.
Since it is not feasible to make napalm in your kitchen, you will have to be satisfied with cacodyal. This made by chemically extracting all the oxygen from alcohol, and then replacing it, under laboratory controls, with metal arsenic. The formula for alcohol is C4 H5 O, whereas for cacodyal it is C4 H5 AR. Now, this new substance, cacodyal, possesses spontaneous inflammability, the moment it is exposed to the air. Therefore it can be put into a bottle and used like a Molotov Cocktail. If it is thrown, it will explode on impact, but this is not its real advantage. When it explodes, a dense white smoke is given off. This is white arsenic, a deadly poin. One inhalation will probably cause death in a matter seconds.
This is an incendiary bomb, which bursts into flame on breaking. A quart bottle is filled with 2/3 gasoline and 1/3 oil. A fuse is made of an old gasoline-soaked rag, and then stuffed into the mouth of the bottle. The bottle is corked, and the fuse is lit. It is thrown and, when it breaks, it will burst into flame. The enemy will not be able to extinguish the fire with water. These were used with varying degree of success in the struggle in Hungary. According to some reports they can disable a tank.
First used by Russians against German tanks, the Molotov cocktail is now exclusively used by terrorists worldwide. They are extremely simple to make, and can produce devastating results. By taking any highly flammable material, such as gasoline, diesel fuel, kerosene, ethyl or methyl alcohol, lighter fluid, turpentine, or any mixture of the above, and putting it into a large glass bottle, anyone can make an effective firebomb. After putting the flammable liquid in the bottle, simply put a piece of cloth that is soaked in the liquid in the top of the bottle so that it fits tightly. Then, wrap some of the cloth around the neck and tie it, but be sure to leave a few inches of lose cloth to light. Light the exposed cloth, and throw the bottle. If the burning cloth does not go out, and if the bottle breaks on impact, the contents of the bottle will spatter over a large area near the site of impact, and burst into flame. Flammable mixtures such as kerosene and motor oil should be mixed with a more volatile and flammable liquid, such as gasoline, to insure ignition. A mixture such as tar or grease and gasoline will stick to the surface that it strikes, and burn hotter, and be more difficult to extinguish. A mixture such as this must be shaken well before it is lit and thrown
Whistle Trap & Other Handy Devices
A booby trap that has an effect similar to the one created by the pipe trap, is the whistle booby trap. It is constructed by separating the metal or plastic sides into their natural halves. This can be accomplished by steaming. Now, fill each half one-fourth full of an extremely friction- sensitive explosive. Before gluing the two halves together, include a small ball made of a rough sandpaper-like substance (glue some sand together). When the whistle is blown, the ball will bounce around inside the shell, creating enough friction heat to set off the explosive charge.
An interesting booby trap can be constructed by using a bottle, full of a highly sensitive liquid explosive, which will detonate on the extraction of the cork. The cork is designed with a friction element that pulls through a sensitive explosive. When this booby trap explodes, it does extensive damage, due to the fragmentation of the glass.
An extremely simple device for setting a time-delay fire is a book of matches, with a lighted cigarette stuck in it. This is then left upon combustible material. The cigarette, as it burns down, will light the matches, and they in turn will generate the heat necessary to ignite the other larger combustible material.
Another incendiary time-delay device is constructed out of a candle, friction matches, and several rags soaked either in gasoline or kerosene. The candle is placed upright in the center of the bundle of matches. As the candle burns down, it will ignite the matches, and they will ignite the rags. One can usually expect about a fifteen-minute delay with this device.