Booby Traps
Booby Traps
———–
[Road Trap]
This incorporates a wire-trip action to complete the electrical circuit.
It
is extremely simple to make, since all the equipment can be gathered around
the
house. The great advantage to this particular device is that the
explosives are detonated
when the vehicle is directly over it, so insuring
maximum destruction. To construct a road
trap, begin by digging three holes
across a roadway. Into two of the holes place the explosive
charges, and into
the third place a regular car battery. Connect the first wire from the
negative terminal of the battery via each of the blasting caps, in each
charge, to a metal pin
on one side of an ordinary clothespin. The
clothespin must be kept open by a small wooden
wedge, which is attached to a
thin black wire stretched across the roadway. When the
semi-invisible wire is
pulled, the wodden wedge will fall out of the clothespin, thus closing
the
clothespin. When the clothespin is closed, the two metal pins will connect
the
electrical circuit, thus exploding the charges.
[Walk Trap]
This incorporates the
same type of wire-trap action as described in the road
trap. The walk trap is not electrically
operated, it relies on a percussion
detonator. When the wire is pulled, it pulls the safety
pin out of the heavy
firing pin. The heat created from the detonator’s explosion will be
sufficient to set off the TNT. This type of booby trap is especially effective
in dense
undergrowth where the trip wire cannot be readily seen (see figure).
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#[TREE]#
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/||
!:!.;!.!.;!:;.! / ||
!:;[Tall Grass];! Wire->/ ||
!;::!;;.;!.;;!.;! / ||
!.;..!;..;.:!.;!! / ||
______________________!.!!;.!:..!..:!.!______/_____||_________________
—–[Board]—– /
/> | ______ | /
|—-|heavy |—|—/ <-Safety Pin
| |firing| |
| \pin / |
/> | \ / |
| \/ |
| |
| |
|——####—–| <—[### = Detonator]
|///////////////|
|/////[TNT]/////|
|///////////////|
|_______________|
/> [Bangalore Torpedo]
This is nothing more than a few sections of pipe filled with sticks
of
dynamite, sealed at the ends, and joined in the middle by couplings, thus
permitting
the torpedo to be of varying lengths. The cap at one end must have
a small hole drilled in it,
so that a fuse and blasting cap can be inserted.
It can be used very effectively to destroy
walls, barricades, and
steel or iron doors. These are also great weapons against cars, trucks,
and
even trains. If piping of this sort is not available, you can make a
substitute
torpedo by taking a stick of dynamite and wrapping it tightly with
electric tape and thin
copper wire. To be effectvie, it should have many
layers of each.
[Homemade Hand
Grenade]
This is constructed from an empty, clean, condensed-milk can, attached to a
wodden handle. It is then filled halfway with a layer of dynamite. In the
dynamite is placed a
nonelectric blasting cap, with a five to six second
fuse. The dynamite is then covered with
small pieces of iron, until the can is
full. Seal the top of the open end closed, leaving a
small hole for the fuse.
/
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=.:.|.:.=
=:.:|.:.= <–[:.: =
Iron Scraps]
=.:.|:.:=
=—|—=
=///+///=
=///+///= <–[+ = Non-electric
Blasting Cap]
=///+///=
=///////=
=///////= <–[/// = Dynamite]
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||| <– Wooden Handle
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[Anti-Personnel
Grenade]
This is constructed by taking a piece of pipe and closing it at one end,
either
by soldering or by screwing a cap on it. The pipe is packed tightly
with dynamite, and sealed
at the other end, leaving a small hole for the
detonator, which is made in the following
manner. A piece of one-eighth-inch
tubing is fastened to the end of a piece of fuse, which in
turn is attached
to a detonating cap. On the other end of the fuse, a bit of cotton,
saturated
with chlorate of potassium and common sugar, is placed, followed by another
piece of cotton and a little vial of sulferic acid. (This vial must be
hermetically sealed, to
prevent leakage). Finally, a piece of wood or iron,
which can be easily moved, is packed in
the remaining empty space. The piece
of wood is placed there, so that when the pipe is moved
the piece of iron or
wood will fall against the vial of sulfuric acid and break it. Once
the
sulfuric acid contacts the potassium chlorate, the chemical reaction will
cause a
very hot flame, which will ignite the fuse and cause the explosion. If
this type of device is
placed in a roadway, or directly in the path of the
enemy army, there is a good change it will
be set off – either by a kick or
by curiosity.
[Book Trap]
To construct
this, you will need a large book, perhaps a thousand pages. The
book should be hollowed out,
leaving the edges intact. In this hollow place,
put a dry cell battery and your explosive, and
connect the wires. Fix two
metal contact points to the edges of the book, and separate them
with a
wooden wedge, which is attached to the rear wall of the bookcase. This must
be
accomplished in such a manner that, when the book is removed from the
shelf, the metal contact
points will touch and complete the electrical
circuit, thus causing the detonation of the
explosive charge.
[Loose Floorboard Trap]
This one utilizes the same principles
as the Book Trap, in that is relies on
two metal contact points touching to complete the
electrical circuit. Beneath
the loose floorboard are two strips of pliable metal of bamboo,
each with a
metal contact point, which will touch when pressure is brought down on the
loose floorboard.
[Gate Trap]
This is an extremely simple, effective, and
relatively safe booby trap. To
cock the booby trap, pull the pin on a regular tension release
grenade, and
place beneath a swining gate, or anywhere that will supply the pressure
necessary. When the gate is moved (either opened or closed), the pressure
will be released and
the grenade detonated.
[Chimney Trap]
Take three or four sticks of dynamite and
tape them together. Attach a
nonelectrical blasting cap, with a three or four foot fuse. Now
tape the
dynamite about five feet up on the inside of the chimney, leaving the fuse
hanging loose downward. The end of the fuse should be about a foot or so up
the chimney so
that it is out of sight. When a fire is lit, the heat
generated will ignite the fuse, and it
will explode the charge, further up the
chimney. This works extremely well, since most of the
tamping is supplied by
the very structure of the chimney.
[Car Trap]
It has
many advantages, the most important being that you do not have to carry
your own power supply,
but rather use the ignition system of the car itself.
Wires are run from the electrical
blasting cap to points along the electrical
ignititon system, and attached with alligator
clips. When the key it turned,
it will complete the ignition system, and thus explode the
bomb. A good place
to hide explosives is in the hollow cavity behind the dashboard, since
then
the full force of the explosion will be directed at the individuals in the
front
seat.
[Pipe Trap]
There are basically two methods of booby-trapping a pipe. The
first is very
similar to the chimney trap, except the intent is to blow off the smoker’s
head. A small amount of tetryl or lead azide is placed in the mouthpiece of
the pipe, and a
fuse is attached, which leads through the rest of the pipe to
a point about one-quarter-inch
beneath the bowl. When the smoker lights the
pipe, the fuse will be lit, and burn down
untouched, until it detonates the
explosives in the mouthpiece, and blows the smoker’s head
off.
The second method is a little more complex but just as effective. A
very sensitive
explosive is placed in the mouthpiece, as before, except an
activated firing pin is placed in
the stem of the pipe. The smoker will
attempt to light the pipe and find he cannot suck
through it. Believing the
stem to be blocked with tar or nicotine, he will unscrew the
threaded joint.
The act of unscrewing will release the firing pin, and detonate the
explosives.
[Cacodyal]
Since it is not feasible to make napalm in your kitchen,
you will have to be
satisfied with cacodyal. This made by chemically extracting all the
oxygen
from alcohol, and then replacing it, under laboratory controls, with metal
arsenic. The formula for alcohol is C4 H5 O, whereas for cacodyal it is
C4 H5 AR. Now, this
new substance, cacodyal, possesses spontaneous
inflammability, the moment it is exposed to the
air. Therefore it can be put
into a bottle and used like a Molotov Cocktail. If it is thrown,
it will
explode on impact, but this is not its real advantage. When it explodes, a
dense
white smoke is given off. This is white arsenic, a deadly poin. One
inhalation will probably
cause death in a matter seconds.
[Molotov Cocktail]
This is an incendiary bomb,
which bursts into flame on breaking. A
quart bottle is filled with 2/3 gasoline and 1/3 oil. A
fuse is made of an
old gasoline-soaked rag, and then stuffed into the mouth of the bottle.
The
bottle is corked, and the fuse is lit. It is thrown and, when it breaks, it
will
burst into flame. The enemy will not be able to extinguish the fire with
water. These were
used with varying degree of success in the struggle
in Hungary. According to some reports they
can disable a tank.
[Whistle Trap & Other Handy Devices]
A booby trap
that has an effect similar to the one created by the
pipe trap, is the whistle booby trap. It
is constructed by separating the
metal or plastic sides into their natural halves. This can be
accomplished by
steaming. Now, fill each half one-fourth full of an extremely friction-
sensitive explosive. Before gluing the two halves together, include a small
ball made of a
rough sandpaper-like substance (glue some sand together). When
the whistle is blown, the ball
will bounce around inside the shell, creating
enough friction heat to set off the explosive
charge.
An interesting booby trap can be constructed by using a bottle, full
of a
highly sensitive liquid explosive, which will detonate on the extraction
of the cork. The
cork is designed with a friction element that pulls through
a sensitive explosive. When this
booby trap explodes, it does extensive
damage, due to the fragmentation of the glass.
An
extremely simple device for setting a time-delay fire is a book of
matches, with a lighted
cigarette stuck in it. This is then left upon
combustible material. The cigarette, as it burns
down, will light the matches,
and they in turn will generate the heat necessary to ignite the
other larger
combustible material.
Another incendiary time-delay device is constructed
out of a candle,
friction matches, and several rags soaked either in gasoline or kerosene.
The
candle is placed upright in the center of the bundle of matches. As the candle
burns
down, it will ignite the matches, and they will ignite the rags. One can
usually expect about
a fifteen-minute delay with this device.
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